REACTING TO SIMONE ROCHA X JEAN PAUL GAULTIER HAUTE COUTURE

Jean Paul Gaultier every season taps a exciting designer to design his Haute Couture collection, and this season it was none other than Simone Rocha, who blends his love of Ireland and Hong Kong into a voluminous and floaty sensibility! Rocha took hold of iconic Jean Paul Gaultier house codes like corsetry, bridalwear, Breton stripes, and florals to synergize her and Gaultier's aesthetics perfectly!
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[@hautelemode]

HI EVERYONE!! I'm so sorry there aren't too many reference images in the actual video so please see this Google Drive folder with all the reference imagery for the collection! drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JgVAEibL-o1ir1CGGg5Q7kWAmWRn1i1i?usp=drive_link

[@KdogBites]

can you please let the close-ups stay up a bit longer so the details can be viewed?

[@TheArtofBeingReacts]

Hello LM, your videos are amazing, but why can't Mariah Carey get ANY love or hate on this here platform? She wore Shiapparelli to The Recording Academy Awards (where her and Lenny Kravitz were being honored) and I thought for sure you would comment on both her, and Lenny's look ? Or her gorgeous dress at The Grio Awards? Maybe keep an eye out for Mimi? Thanks💕

[@jenniferhof9448]

When will the members only version be up? I swear that if it's there, I cannot find it. I even double checked to make sure that I'm still a member and I am. Pretty please!

[@spoonlessvalkyrie7514]

@@jenniferhof9448I can’t find it either

[@mosaics2024]

Please! Pronounce aesthetic correctly!! You say it a hundred times in each video, and it's an important word in all art forms, so please say ess-thet-ic, NOT ess-tet-ic!! The t has an h after it, and it is pronounced just like the or this. It isn't a great look for someone in fashion to mispronounce such an essential word!

[@EmEm872]

Please tell me Im not the only one who gets excited when Luke says "... now ...", knowing I'm about to hear some obscure and fascinating snippet of fashion history?

[@A.Bad-Raf]

After seeing this collection, im convinced more than ever than Simone Rocha should take over at McQueen.

[@Jane-pf2zo]

I'd also love to see this. It'd be really special to see someone who has her strengths in referencing create new collections inspired from the original shows by Lee. It'd also break up the current trend of white males stepping into all of the open creative director roles.

[@GrumpyYank26]

Sarah Burton is not a not a male

[@MultiEquations]

@@GrumpyYank26 Burton retired and they have a new artistic director, a white man

[@sophiegoarin2903]

No

[@Jane-pf2zo]

@@GrumpyYank26 Do you think I don't understand that or know who Sarah Burton is? I'm talking about the trend where Gucci, McQueen and Moschino all filled their vacant creative director positions with white men in the last year.

[@mrssolomon3127]

Luke is so cute in how he mixes up "knit" with CROCHET. As another poster commented, it is always done "by hand" and this is true. Luke is commenting on this designer's Irish background but has not mentioned that she (the designer) is also part Portuguese. As a half Portuguese person(from the "Islands" Madeira), I can attest to the fact that this element is also VERY Portuguese also. Any woman that is Portuguese and or has a connection to the "Old World" has a collection of crocheted items from (usually) little old Portuguese ladies in your family that gift you crochet items. Just like it is IMPOSSIBLE to leave an Old World Portuguese woman's home without a huge amount of food*, you can't leave without gifts of crocheted items. *I mentioned ONCE that I like Fava beans to my grandma's friend and now EVERY time I visit she gives me at least 3-5 lbs of fresh, cleaned Fava beans in lrg freezer bags)

[@MegaLizardgirl]

Ah that explains it. That second dress did not look like Irish crochet but more a non-Irish motif style (extremely beautiful of course). Couldn’t tell about the first dress from the pic. Portuguese influence makes perfect sense.

[@lamppularissa]

It's a breathtaking collection. Very ethereal and feminine in a broad and imaginative way. The way she blends this punk rock vibe with romanticism...love it! 🌹

[@carolynsteele9929]

You are amazing for including the folder so we could peruse the reference looks! It was so interesting (and fun) to take my time and look at all these gorgeous looks.

[@fikanera838]

🌹🎀🌹🎀🌹 What a stunning collection! The perfect fusion of two of my favourite designers. Patiently waiting for the Margiela video.🙏🏽

[@ChandlerAdame]

yes more couture please! 😭

[@elled968]

I love your analysis and contextualisation and your references are lit

[@sams3015]

I’m Irish and currently doing a tourism course. I just did my project about Irish arts & crafts on her. It’s shocking how little known she is, everyone knows John Rocha because he had a line in Debenhams (defunct now) which was like our JC Pennys.

[@petrabrown4232]

John Rocha has been known since the 1980s. His line for Debenhams was after his peak. And anybody who is into fashion design and not knowing about Ms Rocha , is not into fashion design. She is far from being a Johnny Come Lately. She's put in the work, her label is definitive and identifiable and she has already had a H&M collaboration that spread her name to those not au fait with the fashion designer world, but like clothes.

[@mosaics2024]

Beautiful collection! And great research on your part, as always.

[@lindaarrigoni6737]

You MUST react to baftas red carpet. There are many amazing outfits 😊

[@KittenParadise]

I love that you're so knowledgeable of simone rocha, i've been a fan of hers for a few years

[@AlexHider]

I was just looking at her own collection on vogue runway yesterday!! There is a lot of her personal style in here for sure. The woven hat was giving Pikmin but make it fashion 🤣

[@giovannacaligiuri1475]

I love the silver rose-scepter thing

[@ButterFlyGoddess]

✨I ALWAYS ENJOY WATCHING FASHION THRU YOU✨🧚🏾💫

[@SoloAdventureDiva]

THIS!!! JUST WOW!! ALSO I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS,I LEARN SO MUCH

[@sarahnance8590]

I loved it very much more than so many others.i was impressed and made me want to see more loved it ❤thank you for the in depth video as always you are awesome.

[@dawngreene6145]

I watch you because you tell it like it is. Love you ❤

[@valerierael3496]

I love you so much! Good eye! Knowing your designers! Pinpointing your remarks! Calling it out as you see it! And give credit to those who deserve the credit! good job, young man!😊

[@pssurvivor]

wow, i love each piece in this collection, especially the red dress towards the end

[@GrumpyYank26]

You and Bliss Foster (yt) are my fav fashion commentators. Good work!

[@lynzara]

I really appreciate the technical aspects and the historical insights that I've learned from this video. ❤

[@JOANAS30]

I really needed a video from Luke ❤

[@pralineparfait3685]

Loved that collection, so many really interesting silhouettes and motifs and inspiration from JPG's iconic designs. A few notes: the panniers are more inspired by the Robes de Style from the 1920's than direct 18th century reference (the Robes de Style were inspired by the 18th Century dresses of course) The marine motifs are so JPG, the hats, the shells. I grew up in Paris in the 80's and 90's and loooooved watching the runway Haute Couture shows with my mum, JPG and LaCroix were our favorites.

[@hopenield8234]

Would love to know the difference between robes de style and the 17th cent pannier as I’ve seen a couple of references to it being the 20’s not earlier inspiration.

[@Elle-eq4hy]

I looove Lacroix

[@nancythomas1830]

I’ll never be able to rock one of these stunning pieces and that’s okay…. I’m more than happy to admire their beauty and magic from here. Wow. Just wow.

[@Tabtabtabtoycollection]

Thanks for all the research. You rock!

[@ActuallyDoubleGuitars]

The green snakes remind me of Saint Patrick imagery.

[@tsawasanchez9571]

Luke, can you please do a video on Law Roach’s career 🙏🏽 pls or even just a video about how stylist work?

[@baby-girlification]

i said this in the short but I adore this collection. I loveeee the combination of simone rocha's sheerness and femininity and the sensuality of jpg. it hits RIGHT in my aesthetic, while the separate brands themselves are just slightly off from what i want to wear

[@monicasendoeu9524]

I'm an everyday woman who doesn't know much about fashion, but I must say that this channel is a story for life. This collection, wow I want to wear it all. Incredible.❤❤

[@sniedzerungis9541]

Marvelous Art Form! Great Commentary!

[@todd755]

Wow A PERFECT collection!!! And love your in-depth commentaries and scholarly insights. BTW it is DAMask not daMASK the name comes from the textiles origin in Damascus

[@janedaniel7288]

Did you know that crochet cannot be mechanically made. It's just some one with a hook and thread. Love that. Enjoyed this video. xxJane

[@emoboijosh]

I truly loved this collection it was soooo goooooddd

[@Normanabutler1]

I can't believe some of these people in the comments moaning because you weren't showing the reference garments in the video along with the looks!! WTH! The amount of research you put into these videos is crazy and going through a designer's entire life's work to find the looks and reference them is crazy!😍 I would love to see these moaners try and do it. Thanks for an amazing video.....I always learn so much from them. And PPS to the moaners the reference imagery is in the first pinned comment. Knock yourselves out! 😀😛

[@birdielove1]

In the third photo look at the back of that pink dress in the second photo! Amazing!

[@valeriepankey6097]

Loved the collection

[@Thatpinksopretty]

The collection is neat,petite and ready to eat.

[@miguelmelendez3354]

Even the Gaultier fragrances use the human torso male/female for packaging ❤

[@holzlastname1976]

Thank you for also mentioning that corsets are not these torture devices we are taught that they were ❤️

[@teresakresge9498]

Stunning collection

[@MrHaitiandmontreal]

YAAAS! Lets gooo peopleeee

[@24687847]

hya Luke. yes this collection collab is wonderful amd beautiful....I can see you do your research regarding fashion influences and how designers influence each other..In 1982 first Paris collection Vivienne Westwood showed "Nostalgia of Mud" featuring conical satin bras worn over school jumperes with muddy petticoats.....I was at this Tuileries fashion show !!! so sorry to be a big nerd but JEAN PAUL GAULTIER was there ....and following the show i noticed some inspirations had flowed his sudio way !!l ...bytw u can see pickies of this show in ID magazine NO 8 ....jadoring roasts. .....luv D.x ..UK

[@CapitalismSuxx]

Yay! Margiela coming! Love that! I liked this one also so now I'm happy to patiently wait for Margiela while watching this video. :-) Thanks Luke!

[@BinksRandolph]

Thank you!

[@pureounce.9184]

I can see that Breton shirt look being adapted into a gown with a ribbon train and completely EATING up a red carpet.

[@angelaobscura2146]

She understood her assignment 100%

[@Neeeeeefi]

Patiently waiting for the channel member version then 🥲

[@GeminiPlatypus]

So lucky to catch this as i'm about to sleep ❤

[@holzlastname1976]

I think look 3(?) may also be referencing the rigolo trim from Mary Antoinnett’s day. The loosening of the corset strapst that fall to the floor make me thing she was going for a version of it.

[@miola2083]

Phew….Thank GOD you mentioned that the Maison Margiela by John Galliano review is coming! 🤣🙏🤣 This JPG review is great too, though.

[@Jane-pf2zo]

Luke I'd love if you posted a long form video on Robert Wun and his trajectory as a designer I think his recent couture week showing was one of the most memorable and made waves on social media even outside of fashion circles

[@AmazingJane137]

Wonderful! And I can vividly remember when Madonna wore that corset and how absolutely shocking it was. She did change the world.

[@jelenaspasic]

We want one million 🌟🌟🌟

[@RianShafer]

Some of these were truly beautiful. The last gown, the wedding dress... I think the fact that NO ONE in the viewing seats were even looking at it says a lot. It just lacked any wow factor even though the material was pretty.

[@alexateachey9680]

Look 7 is my favorite model Yilan 💞💞 just wanted to hype her up real quick

[@dianehenry6540]

Love you, Luke! Please stay as unaffected as you are today! You're the best! I'm not a member, but I have joined your free group. I'm still supporting a child... sigh.

[@SarahPaceSings]

Great video, Luke!! Whats up with all these entitled people in your comments?

[@zmiye]

The symbol of God's eye is actually much older than American bills. It was used during baroque period in Europe, e.g. 1525 in paining of Jacopo da Pontormo.

[@anabltc]

first (not bot) 😄 edit 37:26 the bridal ivory/black dress got me 🔥

[@Xinrui_Heartflower]

There is also Lanvin Robe de Style references in the dresses I can see where the 18th century element exists silhouette is slighty too low in the waist to just be 18th century

[@10puppyluv]

I think the 3rd look might also be a nod to tang dynasty hanfu as hanfu from this dynasty has a very particular bust style

[@taridaniel7999]

luke, we need janauary 2024 fashion roast. I''ve been waiting so long

[@amybrosnahan8688]

Ubh is the Irish for egg. Did i hear you reference that?

[@mindydewaal9415]

Question… I don’t know much about couture. Will any of these pieces in any form be part of ready to wear. Such as the sailor hats? Or will they only be for reserved clientele as custom pieces?

[@elishevablumenfeld639]

Maybe some more exotic brands? Like guo?

[@sophiejones3554]

31:17 it's also worth pointing out that she seems to have starched the dress, so it's looks like cut paper. Cut paper decorations originated in China.

[@baby-girlification]

when referencing another look from an older collection, providing a picture would be nice too

[@joyk1288]

Thom Browne at Chanel, Simone Rocha at McQueen, heck anyone else at Burberry

[@dannisherman5008]

can someone please explain to me how knit was expensive but crochet was affordable?

[@betmo]

i'd like to know as well...as a crocheter...

[@pollycipher]

Luke can you do video about the red carpet fashion at the Bafta awarda?

[@Bencuiencu]

Never been this early 🥹 😂

[@magpiesneedle2575]

There aren’t enough adjectives for me to describe what I’ve just seen. For the first time ever I like or loved every single look. The red ‘thorn’ dress was exquisite and the highlight for me. Also Tess in the sheer/ dangling ribbons dress. I think her body was made for it. All the Gautier references with Rocha spins, fantastic. 1 tiny dislike was the hip pad with the Breton/ribbon stripe look but the top more than made up for it. I just joined the channel so I haven’t watched the member video. Yet. I don’t think my opinion will change.

[@melissareiger1387]

That IS Illuminati!

[@claire2088]

It's an impressive and restrained collection- I think we all understand the impulse to reference everything JPG- if any of us were lucky enough to be invited to design one single JPG couture collection we'd be too busy enjoying ourselves to think 'does this work as a cohesive collection or am I just having fun rollicking in the archives?'

[@dromo37]

Pls do the best and the worst on ur runsway collection analysis!!!

[@dannisherman5008]

Luke I can't see the channel member version! The last video on there is from a month ago :(

[@miketore6500]

I loooove ur voice 🤌🏾

[@hautelemode]

you flatter me!!!!

[@JOANAS30]

Agreed 🎉

[@miketore6500]

@@hautelemodeit’s true 😚

[@gratitudeattitude5429]

So nice why don't we see these looks on celebs am I just missing noticing them

[@alvinanis3006]

One of the best HC shows in recent years, not saying that lightly btw

[@maple5224]

Love the turtleneck! Where is it from please?

[@May-gq7wn]

Yes panier reference, but more robe de style from the 1920s.

[@MrDantyson]

Love the sweater! Who are you wearing?

[@dawnhunter2558]

WHY AREN'T YOU SHOWING THE REFERENCE GARMENTS!?!?!?

[@yulidomi9760]

yea i’m hoping this was just an oversight - the way he’s talks about the references sounds like he expects we’re all looking at the same thing, but we’re not. by 10:15 i decided to stop watching because i was just not following without the visuals, and i think he’s going to fix this, so i’ll come back in a couple days to check! if not maybe i’ll just have to watch this with a separate google image search tab open 🥲

[@FAB13]

See his pinned comment. Aaaah with the all caps, but I guess it worked

[@anikajoy5739]

​@FAB13 that is too much work. He is the one that does this for WORK, not us. It is lazy to not include them.

[@FAB13]

@@anikajoy5739 That's fine. This is the first time it's ever happened. That's why your all-caps "temper tantrum" was uncalled for.

[@Lisa-kf4iu]

Does he usually do that?

[@raaid22]

Just a suggestion, ps I like your videos, could you slow down the zoom in and outs. You have a lot of very quick zoom in and outs, and after a while it was giving me a headache. I am not sure if it affected anyone else, but I wasn't able to finish the video.

[@theresacrubaugh2095]

Happy to see all these references to styles prior to 1900! Rocha and Gaultier have, at least, got my attention. Just keep playing with this, designers! But also, I think there may be a historical/political reference. All of art, including fashion, is suppose to mirror the time in which it is made. By making the Marie Antoinette reference, it is signaling the attitude of the rich - going for more oppulence, while the poor are ready to take them down for the lack of human rights. It is a good warning for all to heed. Upheavals are never fun and you don't know what type of government you will get in the end. Sometimes it's great! But sometimes it is hell on earth! I prefer to continue to live in a democratic republic.

[@QuintonWare]

As a fellow fashion KZbinr we need the references doll!

[@SarahPaceSings]

He usually does

[@elisafraga4358]

⚡️⚡️⚡️

[@alyradia]

Temu tardigrade

[@andrewjimenez4396]

The synergy was with Haider Ackermann - so far the best collaboration and synergy - sorry love you darling Luke, but this time you have it wrong.

[@JETTSTACHI]

When you zoom in, can you hold it a little longer? Please?

[@Lisa-kf4iu]

Just pause it.

[@JETTSTACHI]

@@Lisa-kf4iu I was doing that, but just thought I'd ask him so I can hear what he's saying. Thank you very much for your input.

[@RZTree]

channel members 👀

[@juliafritz9248]

You didn't spend any time on that amazing red one.

[@elzbethzowlara5164]

Hunger Games vibe

[@le13579]

So beautiful. But if it isn't making me, an average joe, a little psychologically uncomfortable, is it haute couture?

[@petrabrown4232]

The price for having a design house making you made to measure and the hand craft of said clothes is what constitutes Haute Couture. There is a reason why Haute Couture sells mostly to women from very monied, conservative backgrounds. It's these types that usually have the disposable income without having to live in a left field way. Even Daphne Guinness couldn't dress as she does if her ancestors were total hedonists.

[@bkgttcw9892]

Does anyone know where to find the booty bouquet look, I need to see it

[@melissarose0126]

Mr. Pearl is the one that Dita Von Teese gets a lot of her corsets from.

[@dianehenry6540]

YOU are weird, wacky and wonderful!!!

[@Morticia1313]

I love your channel. You're so funny . I love some of those dresses but the big hula hoop underneath ruins it. The baby doll dress are beautiful. The 2 black dress one with the cones & the other that looks like a bunch of garbage bags. No good. White & silver is gorgeous & cool. But what do I know? You're the expert! Love your Irish sweater.