Rear differential change Mitsubishi outlander

The old diff is out the new diff is in. A job like this will take around 4-6 hours with the right tools. Procedure may differ slightly between the I4 and v6 do to the rear control arms being different.

[@MrBobHaley]

Thanx for the video. I can for the life of me find the front gasket for it.

[@John-wc2zv]

Great video! I just want to replace the front oil seal. The two side seals and CV shafts are fine, so I do not believe that I have to remove the diff from the vehicle. Please tell me if I'm wrong and the easiest way to remove that front seal. How's this procedure? 1. I remove the four nuts that hold the coupling to the diff. 2. I remove the bolts, etc from the intermediate support and lower the "propeller shaft" out of the way. 3. I disconnect the vacuum hose and disconnect the electronic plug/socket. 4. I will remove the four bolts that hold the coupling to the rest of the diff. Here's where I'm fuzzy. Does the coupling just slide off the splined shaft poking out of the rest of the diff, or is there a bolt holding the splined shaft into the coupling? If there is a bolt, how do you remove it? I then remove the old seal and replace it with a new seal. I then install things in reverse order. Thanks again for the great video.

[@Exhaust_power]

Correct when removing the coupler it's only mated to the diff with 4 bolts and then slides off of the splined shaft. You got it in terms of steps! If you were only changing the diff seal then I would keep the diff bolted in. You are changing the axle seals as well? If all seals are being changed at the same time then it would be better to pull the diff out. But you can do them all with the diff in. It's just easier to see how the seal sits. I have done the axle seals separately before though.

[@John-wc2zv]

@@Exhaust_power Thanks very much for the amazingly prompt reply! The two side seals were changed under warranty maybe 7 years ago and they're not leaking now. Only the front seal is leaking (knock on wood), so that's the only one I'm going to replace. How long do you think it should take an experienced, motivated DIYr (or, for that matter, an experienced Mitsubishi technician) to replace just the front seal? (BTW, if it's important, our vehicle is a 2010 XLS with V6.) The reason I ask about a Mit. tech. is that a local Mit. dealer quoted over $1,000 to replace just the front seal. Thanks again for your great video and prompt reply.

[@Exhaust_power]

@@John-wc2zv no problem. I think it should take about 2.5-4 hours depending on how fast you can take the seal itself out. That's the hardest part of the job, but if you have the right seal puller it could be done in 3 or less. That's for me to do it on the ground. I can see it being done a little faster in a shop. If you did it yourself the difficulty is not high at all probably a 6 out of 10(=hard) just depending on if your center shaft bolts come out easy and having a proper seal puller.

[@JohnSmith-tv2zz]

@@Exhaust_power Thanks again for the great advice and prompt reply. I believe what you say about getting the right seal puller. Last year I did a complete timing belt job + water pump, tensioner, idler pulley AND camshaft seals and crank seal. I had to use a 90-degree pick to get the old cam seals out and it took me literally hours of pull, pull, pulling to finally get them out of there. My custom made, plastic-pipe installation tools were not that great. I screwed up the first attempt to install a new crank seal, but I got the second one in there, no problem. No oil leaks at all for the last year. Knock on wood. Mit. must have a "special tool" to install the front seal evenly. Did you find that you could press the seal in with a tool, or did you use your fingers and carefully center the seal and push it in without tipping it? Thanks again.

[@Exhaust_power]

@@JohnSmith-tv2zz no problem, glad I can help. So you already know how annoying it can be without the right tool 😁. Pulling out the seal is a little difficult, puting it in is easy. I taped all the way around with a hammer and extension. I used my finger to make sure the seal was even with the housing. I'm sure if you had a object the same circumference it would be easier to drive in.

[@tysonclark2179]

I've been looking everywhere, ya i know you've heard that before but no really! Thank you!

[@Exhaust_power]

I'm glad I can help someone out!

[@alexblack6762]

Great work and presentation!

[@Exhaust_power]

Thankyou!

[@ganeshnarayan5505]

Great video would you no why my 2015 Mitsubishi outlander sport 2.4 liter has a bad whining sound near the drive shaft.

[@Exhaust_power]

Depends where the sound is coming from. If it's coming from the center point of the driveshaft it could very well be the center bearing. If it's closer to the rear differential and or transfer case I would get it looked at Sooner than later.

[@ganeshnarayan5505]

Thanks.@@Exhaust_power

[@mznikki198071]

I have a new lower control arm and cv axle

[@Exhaust_power]

That's good. What were your issues that made you buy a new control arm and axle?

[@mznikki198071]

Do I have to take my 2011 Mitsubishi outlander to a transmission shop and have mine repaired or no

[@Exhaust_power]

Only if yours is leaking or broken. I changed my differential cause I had no AWD. So does yours have problems?

[@jobdacobb]

What do you think blew your diff? Low fluid or .... ?

[@TheAslamjarwar]

where are you based? I need to change my car front differential

[@Exhaust_power]

I'm from NEPA. You say front differential like the transfer case? I have yet to change one. But I will be sometime soon.

[@rocoperroni7664]

What year is that one???

[@spdracr4life]

This video is definitely what I was looking for, getting ready to change the rear differential on my wife's '07 outlander that has a bad whine. Simple video straight to the point with no fluff and time wasted. How did sealing the rear electronics coupling worked out for you? I got a rear differential coming all connected to the electronic coupling and I would rather not split them honestly.

[@Exhaust_power]

I'm not sure how I missed your comment. But sealing the electronic coupler to the diff was pretty simple. Even if I didn't seal it properly I wouldn't really know because the diff seal stops any fluid from getting to the coupler. I hope you get everything figured out. As long as you have the right tools this wasn't such a bad job. I worked on it about 2-4 hours a day took 3 days. I took my time so I can do it smoothly.

[@spdracr4life]

@@Exhaust_power I finished my wife's over the period of 2 weeks an average of 1-2 hours a night. Had a hard time getting the driver axle out without almost removing hr spindle off the car. So it took me about 10 hour all together. Her rear whining noise ended up being not only diff but also rear hubs which are here and waiting to be installed.

[@Exhaust_power]

@@spdracr4life yeah sounds like that axle was a pain. Glad you got it together though. I had also changed my hubs 2 years before I did the diff . But only because Mitsubishi had a great idea to have little clips to hold the abs sensor to the hub. And it's only for 4cyl AWD models 🤦‍♂️.

[@spdracr4life]

@@Exhaust_power is that where the sensor is mounted on the spindle or directly on the hub? Her sensor is mounted on the spindle. She also needs lateral arms bushings replaced.

[@Exhaust_power]

@@spdracr4life yeah the sensor is mounted on the hub and point towards the axel reluctor ring. My old hub the same clip rusted and snapped off. I did my front control arms last year I'm happy with the way it's running now at 182k.

[@armandh6902]

Price?

[@Exhaust_power]

What do you mean? A shop price? I'm not sure what one would charge. For me personally only cost me maybe less than a $100 for parts.