Rebuild Brake Master Cylinder - Jaguar XJ6, XJ12 and XJS

[@kerryd4696]

Very Useful as this is the same Master Cylinder as a Land rover Series 3 and I could not work out how to get the front seal /rod out till You showed the pin !

[@gregernsting8517]

Hi Adam,could you please inform on the direction of seals..hard to see in the video

[@davidwarr8600]

I decided to take a chance on pressing the plastic pipes into the grommets using my vise. I went slowly, one at a time, using a Q Tip to apply brake fluid as I went. Hopefully the master is good for another fifty years.

[@tonycollingridge4347]

Hi Adam, another good video. I'm an originality freak, so I would definitely say don't paint the master cylinder just give it a good brush up. In my limited experience on my Mark 2, they come up pretty well!

[@russellmajor4608]

Hi, mate great video however the rubber seal closest to the power booster seems like it's on the wrong way around can you confirm my observation is wrong. Thanks

[@santiagorecasensros3244]

Another great video that I can finally apply to a real car: after looking for a good unit for a looooong time and after some frustrating experiences, last month I found a 95 XJS convertible with only 38.000 miles and exceptionally well maintained. It is now in my garage, and your videos will help me make this confinement a valuable learning experience. Adam, I hope you and your family are healthy and ok in these difficult times.

[@davidwarr8600]

Oh yes, I put the master back together but how do you get those plastic pipes back in the grommets?

[@AndrewVanDay]

Well made video and well explained. If the piston is stuck (as mine was) you can blow an airline into the bottom hole and blow it loose. Sadly my inside was not smooth and the thing is junk. Oh well, I tried...

[@davidwarr8600]

I just did this exact job on my 74 XJ6 today just about four years after your video. Unfortunately I had a rebuild kit for quite a few years and discovered that whoever made up the kit put one flat seal in the pack instead of the correct seal. The master takes five identical seals. The supplier put the seals into a baggy to make it easier to ship. So I have used one old seal over again. The one that goes at the end near the spring. Hopefully it will be ok. I don’t want to remove the booster. I am worried that there is fluid in there. You seem to suggest that you perhaps can see if there is fluid in there by removing the red plug. Hopefully that is the case and fluid can be sucked out. Also the seal on the end of the primary piston does not seem to have much of a lip whereas the seals on the secondary are very pronounced. I hope this works.

[@jeffball6108]

Hate to tell you but the last seal you put on, the one closest to the actuating rod (from the servo) on the primary piston is back to front. It should be facing the same direction as the seal on the other end of the primary piston. If you have a think about it the sealing side should always face the fluid., you have it facing away from the fluid.

[@peteryates60]

Thanks for the video, I have the same master cylinder on my Land Rover Series 3. Have you ever had trouble getting the little pin out? Mine is refusing to come out!

[@ruioliveirareis1967]

Great video.. and usually share it with my group on Xj6/12 in Portugal... well done and keep doing well.. thanks

[@genoto]

Olá, também sou português e tenho um xj6, onde me posso juntar a esse grupo?

[@CauliflowerMcPugg]

I would say paint it. Thanks for another great video. 👍

[@alext6257]

Hi, I have a 91 DD6 with abs with leaking master cylinder. It’s different to this one, doesn’t have a rear circlip or visible pin in rear to rear. Just what looks like a dimple.I’m stumped on this one.

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Sorry I haven’t torn into one of the later ones.

[@alext6257]

@@LivingWithAClassic all good sort, it’s a series 3, one of the last. The pin is out, all rebuilt now, very stubborn.

[@EcBuddy123]

Could you share where you but the parts from, or maybe part numbers? Thank you!

[@raultimis2192]

A very nice video. I don't currently own an XJ6 but I'm planning to (S3). Seeing your clips I am not afraid anymore of the DIY mechanics of this car. Thank you. I would paint any mechanical part that has been restored to a bright color yellow or red. Just my opinion...

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Thank you for watching! I hope that you find a nice series 3. I think those colors are a bit too bright for me but I like the idea of painting everything you have restored.

[@SeanWilliams-mx9bk]

I'm trying to get the plastic reservoir hose fittings back in and I'm struggling. I used brake fluid to lube up the fittings but they just will not go into the new rubber seals. Ideas?

[@SeanWilliams-mx9bk]

After some sore thumbs they finally went in :)

[@petermyers5793]

Surely there must be a seal for the clip?

[@manofgod8672]

Awesome 👍

[@johnbutler3141]

The master cylinder should be honed . Always, as the previous lines in the bore will damage the new seals. In you could not see the lines in the bore its because you did not look properly.

[@modpettersson]

Great video! Anyone know the function of the small pin?

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Thanks! It should be to hold the piston in position

[@lebojay]

How do you bench bleed the master cylinder with its remote reservoir?

[@LivingWithAClassic]

You bleed it in place like most European master cylinders

[@lebojay]

@@LivingWithAClassic Thanks!!

[@sergeguerrieri5402]

just brush it with an iron brush, it gives a metallic aspect which is nice

[@LivingWithAClassic]

I might do that but maybe it will start rusting quickly

[@witooowolf2709]

Part number for kit?

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Don't remember, it was years ago

[@joeblogs8193]

Unfortunately it appears the seals are the wrong way round. On the Primary piston, the two seals should face the same way ( cup facing inwards) and the Secondary pistol with the two seals together, opposing each other , first seal, cup facing outwards and second seal, cup facing inwards. I can send you a diagram, if you wish. My comment, Aluminum or gold paint looks good, as I believe you want this car it look original. Factory was either gold or silver anodized.

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Hey Joe, That's odd, I followed 2 diagram from the workshop manual. Yes please email me a diagram if you have a good one and I can double check

[@russellmajor6873]

Hi mate can you please send me a diagram with the correct orientation

[@marco7563]

I took apart a master cilinder and the seals had different orientations that this video. Did you ever find out whats correct?

[@dougmaxwell8789]

“Not too rusty, not too crusty” will be the title of my country rap debut album.

[@LivingWithAClassic]

I'd buy that album!

[@zurdoremi]

paint it aluminum color.

[@petehalasz7547]

Good video,, im wondering if you had any problems with the plastic intake pipes the insert onto the top of the master cylinder.. I've rebuilt mind but those elbows are old and deformed.. do you know where to buy or find new ones? Thanks keep up the great work.. You should see the insane restomod on my sons 86 xjs.. custom work on the V-12, zero handles and lights on the sides custom interior, even the lip of the gas lid was shaved flat. An original TWR body kit and every nut and bolt are S.S. every engine component is either chromed or high polish aluminum..