Rebuilding an HVAC system on a W123 series Mercedes Benz.

There are a variety of classic Mercedes Benz cars still on the road today, ranging from the iconic 300 SL Gullwing Coupe to the luxurious W126 S-Class. Many of these cars are lovingly maintained by their owners, and they can be seen driving around town or at car shows. These vehicles are a testament to Mercedes Benz's dedication to producing timeless and reliable automobiles.
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[@tintinautonomous]

Pierre is hands down the best mechanic in Central Florida if not the entire world. His knowledge of classic Mercedes Benz is unmatched. He has always goes above and beyond. Day/night rain or shine Pierre will take your call or go out of his way to help. Thanks Pierre. -Tanner

[@alexanderlewis8351]

This guy makes a huge difference in quality of life for classic Mercedes owners around the world THANKYOU PIERRE HADERY!

[@trixie9867]

love it

[@ryanking5727]

This is Ryan. Thank you for the video. I appreciate all of the info.

[@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753]

Glad it was helpful!

[@RonPieper61]

Love this guy.

[@WayneLambrightIII]

If you're tight on money you can put your receiver dryer in the over at about 200 F and it will cook out the moisture from the ceramic inside. There is a high pressure solder plug and if that was damage you can re solder them. I would also ad, to look at the radiator and make sure it's not full of bugs, and to remove and reverse flush with a power washer and same goes for the condenser.

[@VegasMikeP229]

Excellent advice. I've gone so far as taking the water radiator loose at the top and tilting it toward the engine so I can blow out the AC radiator backwards (inside toward the front). I'm in Vegas and in the summer it gets HOT. Damn Hot. I also found that a stiff viscous clutch on the engine fan is a significant improvement.

[@OrionsKelt]

The Behr compressor are excellent if you can find them.

[@richardgreene3460]

Great advice....as always! I would suggest the gentleman first use a test light at the blower motor to see if there is current there. If there is current, this would "suggest" the system is working somewhat (when using the push button control panel). If there is current, then I would apply current directly to the motor to see if it is locked up! I do disagree with your respect to the R4 compressor. I understand they are installed upside down (or in a different configuration) on the MB compared to the installation on a Chevy. My master tech feels this is one of the reasons for reliability issues on our cars. I do not like them either because I understand they "hold" a small volume of oil. I installed a Sanden on three of my W123 and two on my W126 about 5 years ago. AWESOME with perfect reliability! Appreciate your respect and knowledge of these cars! BTW, John Woods is ok! 😅

[@liljawn826]

I went through 4 years of school for commercial refrigeration and worked as a service technician doing the same for a long time. There is a lot of misconceptions and even blatant lies about converting a system from R12 to R134A. A properly converted system will blow just as cold and work just as well with the new refrigerant. The issues people report after a conversion are always caused by improper conversion and charging of the system. You must flush the system of the original oil completely and replace the drier AND THE OIL using PAG as Pierre says. Then charge the system using the sight glass on the dryer. A solid sight glass indicates a properly charged system where the expansion valve is being fed a solid column of liquid refrigerant.

[@pieterlouis100]

w124 230e 1991 102engine. Lower chamber pressure at 3.4bar. control pressure 7.4bar. Car runs 🙈, got it 2 weeks ago. What could cause such a low system pressure? Fuel pump works. Fuel Pressure Regulator replacement? Beautiful car, but someone screwed up the fuel system. Also seems like the EHA valve is on some sort of mechanical mode as it has no effect when unplugged.

[@ricochetx]

Great timing putting this video out so we can all survive Florida summer! A couple of questions... 1. You mentioned using PAG 150 oil. All of the conventional knowledge about these R12 systems says to use mineral or ester oil. Do you know something about this that no one else knows? 2. Are the ACM branded expansion valves any good? The pics on AutohausAZ and FCP Euro appear to show it with a Made in France sticker.

[@liljawn826]

PAG150 is for use with R134A. 134A is not compatible with mineral or ester oils. It doesn't carry the oil through the system properly. Its not the compressor type that dictates what oil to use, it's the refrigerant.

[@ricochetx]

@@liljawn826 Right, I get that it's not the compressor type that dictates this. In the video, Pierre is talking about adding PAG oil to what is presumably a stock R12 system. The conventional wisdom is that PAG Oils and R12 are not compatible, hence my confusion. However, I'm on a 5 hour flight and had time to do some deeper research on this. As I learned, the issue with PAG oil and R12 is that they are reactive toward each other, causing the oil to degrade. The exception to this is PAG oil labeled as "DOUBLE END CAPPED". This kind is said to be non-reactive to R12. So as long as I flush out the system VERY well (to remove all traces of mineral oil) it sounds like I should be okay to use Double End Capped PAG 150 oil.