REBUILDING MY ABANDONED HONDA CB250 | DISASTER STRIKES

[@BikesofRye]

I'm looking to create an upcoming Q&A - if you would like to know anything about past, present and future please drop any questions below!! Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe 😁

[@nicholasgardner5526]

For cleaning up old engine case's brick acid works a treat . Brush on work it and rinse off . Keep debating myself whether to make a channel myself as currently got 6 bikes all honda and 3 of which are resto projects 😂

[@nicholasgardner5526]

As four seized head bolt get yourself a oxy acetylene kit hit it with heat an cool cycles then stud extractor chuck or mole grips a few times other option is to weld a few nuts on it as close to the case as you dare . As for bolts to come undone you can shock them impact socket over top and a good wack with a hammer . Also try doing them up 1st and then undo them but work them back and forth as they come out .

[@thegameeeeeee8666]

Hey man for stuck engine bolt I suggest gt85 and heat the cylinder barrel around the bolt (but not actually the bolt) And spray gt85 on stud only to cool it. Then maybe grind stud a little bit shorter and use a stud extractor. A very good one is US PRO 2634. The bolt is steel so when you heat it stays expanded longer. Cast ali barrel will get rid of heat quicker, so you want to keep bolt cool and barrel hot good luck my guy !

[@BleachDemon99]

I think my first video of yours was the night rider breakdown or the guy who sped away from police who was later identified by his backpack…what’s your background? What’s ya story? 😁

[@phillkemp7491]

Hi, only recently found your channel, it's been a good watch. Have you in the past or are you in the future looking at a rebuild of a Suzuki gt250 (the model before the X7)

[@cowcar87]

great project. keep at it. Please be careful when prying against a sealing surface with a screwdriver. It may damage the surface and prevent sealing after reassembly. A better way is to use a soft mallet or brass punch.

[@BikesofRye]

Was trying to be so gentle there to not to do any damage

[@ramishrambarran3998]

7:41. " We find this engine has pushrods & rocker-arms." It is an OHC head. The rockers are operated directly by the camshaft. Engines with pushrods have a cam lower down in the crankcase. But you did well ! Good video ! Trinidad & Tobago. West Indies.

[@RonaldDaub-xi5jz]

Exactly I know there's more and more KZbin motorcycle mechanics either makeup names or other strange things

[@RonaldDaub-xi5jz]

When the bolt breaks off take the others out if they break off fine it will still come apart then you can grab ahold of something😂

[@gk73man51]

That’s an OHC engine. There are no pushrods.

[@bobatporty]

He knows best, your wasting your time mate

[@BikesofRye]

Nice! Noted for future thanks

[@ziondanny7081]

Omg....

[@gdfggggg]

Well done, Rye. I’m getting pissed off with the armchair experts 🙄 (I’m not that pissed off 😂). I did three years at college back in the day as an HGV mechanic, and was nurtured by an old school expert that molded me in to someone who knew how to sort things out. It takes years of interest and patience to get to the point where this stuff becomes second nature. I’m a builder now but I still sort out all my own vehicles. I was in a garage where I had all the best tools at my disposal, and sometimes no matter what, things weren’t easy! You’re doing a fine job. Everything you do is a learning experience. I’d recommend an oxyacetylene torch (more expense). You can get some heat on the head bolt right around the block and some Stilsons (and an extension bar if needed). Clean out with a thread tap. Get some verniers to check the size of the bolt and a thread gauge to make sure you use the right tap (relatively cheap). Listen bro, someone with your interest and passion will prevail, it’s just time.

[@FrauHaferniehl]

_So nice how You apologize to the CB250 engine, but it doesn't go out like You want .... nasty bike._

[@TheREGGIE1324]

That stuck bolt, cut it down a bit. Then weld a nut on it. Heat it up and keep soaking it for a few days. Patience will save you time. Good luck fella

[@deanroberts187]

I was also going to suggest welding a nut onto it. Good shout

[@ziondanny7081]

After this I need to go to RRC to relax and see the job done right.

[@BH-tp3pm]

Couple ways with that bolt now. Few people have mentioned welding but that’s not a workshop jobby that’s a take it somewhere for the weld jobby. I’d suggest bending that bolt close to the base for leverage and then twist. Add some heat too and some GT spray.

[@SAVING_ICONIC_MACHINES]

I think it’s a shame you took the engine apart you could have just cleaned it as it was and gave it a paint. Keep something original is always the best way unless it needs rebuilding and in this situation it didn’t, bad move 😢 bro.

[@markmenzies4218]

Never thought i'd feel sorry for a superdream, especially the classic pushrod ones.

[@BikesofRye]

Wait until you see it finished 😘

[@RonaldDaub-xi5jz]

That's a ohc engine but I know that there is a UK Honda 250 single that uses pushrods. You can usually tell if you know what to look for on the cylinder and our valve cover unless you just have had one apart

[@RonaldDaub-xi5jz]

Personally I wish I could find a 250 single with pushrods because I like Hondas with pushrods CX500 used them. And actually they last longer than a cam chain with all of the tensioners in my opinion

[@RonaldDaub-xi5jz]

The chain runs a ba Look at it the camshaft is in the top the rocker arms run directly off of the cam and there are no need for pushrods on that one. Balance shaft is chain behind clutch

[@RonaldDaub-xi5jz]

Rocker arms only 😄

[@spent808]

There's so much to unpack here.

[@davidmullarkey7019]

An old farmers trick: heat the bolt at the base and get a birthday cake candle (or other candle you can jam in the join between bolt and casing). The heated thread will draw the wax down into the case through capillary action. Once you've got the wax in there to displace the grime and sludge you only need to find a way of gripping the stud and turning it....

[@kalaharimine]

The cam-chain might indicate it may not be a push rod valve train 🤔 keep at it boet, good luck with it 👍🏻

[@BikesofRye]

What a dummy 🤣

[@royburns7496]

eat humble pie and ask Matt (dirty garage guy)

[@BikesofRye]

The bike will NEVER be finished if he got hold of it

[@WoBlink1961]

Main thing with extracting seized bolts is to heat the metal that the bolt is screwed into so that it expands off the bolt - you don't directly heat the bolt itself, as that makes the bolt expand and makes it tighter! When a bolt continues to be tight whilst unscrewing, often it is actually pulling the thread off the aluminium it is screwed into. It was difficult to see the thread on the bolt you showed us, but I wonder if rather than the bolt thread being knackered, it was just clogged with smeared aluminium - in which case the thread in the crankcase will need repairing.

[@kathrynwhitby9799]

i was just about to add that the head bolts go all the way down to the crankcase.

[@pb222221]

Heating the block wasnt an option, it was too far under the jugs and head. The amount of heat he would have needed to soak it would have started melting the fins and removing the tempering from the bolt. This looked almost perfectly like a case of galvanic corrosion. The steel bolts and aluminium threads started corroding together. When he started removing the bolts the aluminium oxide corrosion was dragging and pulling the threads causing them to gall and making matters worse. He never stood a chance. He needs to run a tap through every bolt hole at minimum or have a machine shop plug and redrill them all. The internal threads are knackered.

[@manosparavida3551]

I thought my 1981 CB250N was in a dreadful condition, but compared with yours, it's a gemstone 🤣

[@nealeinNZ]

I had the exact same bolt snap on me as well. I had to take the engine to the local Honda dealer who removed it after a lot of effort. I had to order a head bolt from David Silver spares. Just saw off the stand pivot and get a new one.

[@edwinhandford4146]

Give the broken stud a squirt of easing oil at regular intervals like every 10 minutes or so. It's taken decades to weld itself in with corrosion so it's going to take some patience to get it going again. I usually find that working a stiff bolt to and fro helps to loosen it - if it tightens up while you're turning....well; you know the rest so back it off again and re-group. The stand pivot as well - give it time to soak and keep re-applying the easing oil - hit it both sides to encourage it to break free.

[@LushmanGB]

Great progress as most have said heat and lube, out of interest does the centre stand have a c clip at one end. I have a similar dilemma as I need to remove a bent centre stand from 1980s cb100n

[@martyndunn1905]

GT85 is great stuff, that's my go to now instead of WD40.

[@cryptic_badger795]

The last engine bolt....loads of heat, then shock cool it (pack rags around top of crankcases and spray cold water particularly on to the stud and it should held break the corrosion bond). Loads of heat again and then use vice grips clamped as tight as you can physically shut them and start loosening the stud. If it remains very tight when loosening it, tighten for half a turn, then loosen one turn, then tighten again for half a turn then loosen one turn.....repeat this for as long as the loosening process remains tight.

[@capB1535]

I used GT85 recently to remove an old gasket that had been on my bike since 1982, it done a better job than the dedicated stuff for that job

[@kodibox2501]

You could have vapour blasted the engine as a complete lump without stripping it at all, you just need to seal off any holes, sparkplugs, inlet ports, breathers,ect and it would have looked like new. It would also help if it ever needed stripping at a later date being clean and free of corrosion.

[@markcreeney-if7rr]

As mentioned already cut the stud to about 50mm. Use a dye set and cut a thread on too the stud. Put a nut on to this after grinding of the plating on the top and bottom of the nut. Weld the top and bottom of the nut to the stud. While the stud is hot from the welding use plus gas or any penetrating spray at the base of the stud, this will help the penetrating spray to get into the thread. You now have a short bolt heat the base of the bolt and now remove with a socket. May be helpful to heat the stud and put plus gas on it a few times every day before you attempt to remove it. An engineering firm will also remove the stud without damaging it. They don’t charge an arm and a leg. This method however has worked for me on engines where the studs were snapped before I got it.

[@freemenofengland2880]

As one of your original subscribers who watched you hoon around on a tuned up Street Triple 765, can't believe how you've got all the way to 50k subs!!! That's a lot in the UK - you must be doing something right mate!!! 😁😁👍👍

[@BikesofRye]

It's taken a while 🥵 still plugging away! Thanks for the support 😁

[@HondaWanderer]

Don't give up! love watching this. More please :)

[@BikesofRye]

Working on it 😁

[@Tolly-k9n]

Had hectic day today I must say and you saved it! Couldn't imagine better end of the day and I'm glad to see you back! 💪💪🏍🏍

[@BikesofRye]

What a cool dude 😎

[@HugoGray-fn3lu]

I had a 1982 super dream in The 1980s.I had a leaking head gasket ,so started taking the cylinder head off ,and had 3 bolts that would not undo..I took the bike to the Honda dealer,They discovered that the threads were not cut deep enough,so the bolts had mushroomed in the crankcase..Only solution was to cut off bolt,drill out the remains and helicoil in a new thread.....suggest you buy all new bolts (possibly different lenghts front and rear), check existing threads for damage . Generally these Hondas are robust, smooth and easy to ride ,but a bit underpowered for the open road. Best of luck.

[@kathrynwhitby9799]

nope, single overhead cam operating on 3 valves per cylinder.

[@BikesofRye]

Okay okay 😅

[@kathrynwhitby9799]

@@BikesofRye 😎😎 IiRC, i broke the very same stud on my later model (Superdream Deluxe, Y-reg), daily ride, doing a head-gasket change. Best i can suggest, is plenty of GT 80, then heat the crankcase (not the bolt) and wiggle it back & forth with a pair of molegrips. And i think i used copperslip on reassembly because of that exposed zone.

[@SAVING_ICONIC_MACHINES]

Good video mate.

[@BikesofRye]

Thanks 👍

[@leeallen7426]

Love the content. All a great learning curve for you as well. It's now time you invest in a cheap mig welder. The head bolt is the perfect way for you to put it to good use. Weld a nut on it let the heat do its thing and continue to unwind it. If it shears again. No sweat weld another one on. If still no luck then, cut flush and drill it out. Honestly a tig welder would be better as no spatter. But cover it all up. Also use some anti spatter spray for any wild bits that go where there not wanted. As for the frame. Plenty of heat and patience. Up the RYE 🎉

[@philipheron3429]

Some unnecessary sarcastic comments on here , we all make mistakes , we know he is learning as he goes , thats the magic of this channel , love it 👏👏👏👏

[@BikesofRye]

Thank you mate 👍🏼

[@twowheelsquirrel]

Really? I see no negative comments.... None 🤔 It's almost like they were, deleted?

[@BikesofRye]

@@twowheelsquirrel I haven't deleted your comments?

[@philipheron3429]

@@daveross7 your mum is waiting for you in the back bedroom with the big slipper🫢

[@HondaWanderer]

@@daveross7 nothing better to do hey?

[@jackn4853]

When you see these bikes l always find it hard to believe that they were once someones pride and joy.

[@ParaBellum2024]

Seems to me like this guy's bitten off more than he can chew, lacking the knowledge, skills, tools, or patience required for this kind of work.

[@3647Edd]

But he’s having a go and credit to him. Whereas you are just having a go at him. Seeing as you know everything why don’t you just f o and make your own channel if you’re such an expert?

[@ianwilliams2554]

Great channel mate. I've watched all your posts so far.... only thing that would make it better is the phrase you use to describe the CYLINDER HEAD, Not a head cylinder as you call it...😂 The things you are learning is all the thi gs we all have to go through when messing with bikes that are...older.. Good luck with the Super Dream.

[@juhavirkkala6614]

Heat, heat, HEAT!☝️

[@gdfggggg]

Yip, a flame, not a heat gun.

[@BleachDemon99]

[@BikesofRye]

Love to hear it!! 😎

[@blaynehumphrey3198]

Heat the stud up till almost glowing, then leave it cool to room temp. Then get a stud extractor, and as low. As possible attach to stud n remove, good luck 👍

[@apacherider7110]

I would put my life savings that bolt was going to shear with that breaker bar. You needed an oxygen acetylene on it and some decent industrial penertrating fluid on the sections through the castings where its corroded. Hit the top of the bolt with a 2pound hammer and just use your normal rachet. Gently bentley does it.

[@robinberryman5949]

Spray and spray again with gt85, weld a nut onto the bolt, warm the threaded bit of the bolt and try to turn using newly welded nut.

[@darrenburton5041]

Invest in a air chisel not that expensive saves a lot of agro ,keep up the good work loving it

[@gdfggggg]

No point. More expense. It’s only a motorcycle engine.

[@darrenburton5041]

No not for engine use for centre stand and front wheel saves all that hammering

[@Roger.Coleman1949]

For the stand pivot , find a short length of stout steel/brass tubing slightly larger than the external diameter of the pivot , placed between the frame and solid ground, not the floor of your workshop, as it might /is absorbing the shock you create with the hammer. Use a solid mandrel , close to the diameter of the pin with no ' mushroom burrs , a 2/4lb hammer and hit squarely , after heating the frame where the pin is stuck, squirt your GT85 in as well , it should drift out through the lower tube, make sure you have a stout pair of protective gloves on .For the stud, you need to warm the block , having left it soaking with the GT 85 and apply more, get yourself a stud extractor , an eccentric knurled cam over a 1/2" wrench drive , you should not be using a lever that long, it should come out with a short tommy bar .No offence , but had to watch parts of this through clenched hands and why no protection on the plastic dipstick when using serrated gas pliers ? !.Good luck with the Super Dream though .

[@dave8204]

Agree on the dipstick comment.I've had 6 Superdreams over the years and the dipstick caps always tightened up massively for some reason. Was always a big pair of pliers job but always with a rag wrapped around the raised part of the cap.

[@Roger.Coleman1949]

@@dave8204 You're right Dave, a common problem on them , I've had 5 , bought each for around £250 max as Winter hacks and especially after the 1983 Learner ban , sold them in the Spring fully serviced for a small profit !.

[@julianpritchard2558]

Just got to love an amateur struggling with the basics!! Get a gas axe , and some brake fluid mixed with diesel , and throw that GT 85 in the bin. Never used or needed such crap in 40 years

[@GuitarsandDrones]

I had a used bike and used parts shop in Blackpool, we sold many suoerdreams to commuter car drivers who wanted cheap transport, the 250 was sold as “boringly reliable” by my shop lol 😂 maybe the easiest engine you will ever work on. (As I write this your head bolt snaps) 😮The bottom part of the tank usually leaked 😮 that was annoying. Stud will come out blow lamp and maul grips

[@tinkertailor1436]

Pushrods? Time to leave.

[@brendancheyne3315]

Just heat that stuck bolt up cherry red with a hand held gas torch and quench it with water ! The shock will loosen the grip of the rust then work it back and forwards with your socket! Take your time and be careful if you feel it seaze again stop and repeat process the key is tightening and loosening in small increments is before it gets totally stuck and breaks! When you start to feel it stick stop and go other direction cause its better to take a lot of time undoing than to spend a lot of money fixing! Yours Brendan.

[@neilbranney5014]

Stud extraction tool or vice grips with some heat. You might need to grind the end of center stand pivot then use an hydraulic press.

[@matthewharmer1656]

The crankcase needs to be smoking hot with a propane torch around the stud area.i mean really hot !! Mole grips on the stud,close to the bottom of it then turn it,if it won't turn, take it to the engineering shop you used before.

[@melderosa656]

They’re not pushrod’s they’re cam followers. A pushrod engine won’t have a camchain and I suggest you research an engine before you pull it apart. Embarrassing to be honest

[@BikesofRye]

Not making any more videos now

[@markcreeney-if7rr]

On the stand you may need an oxygen and settling torch to heat where the pin is seized. Then quench it with cold water. This breaks up the rust that is seizing the pin. Word of warning, you need to know how to use these torches so you don’t damage the frame. A blow torch may do the same but I have a feeling it won’t be hot enough. Again engineering firms will often remove these. Good luck.

[@billbelcher3214]

have a cup of tea!

[@RobertAdams-wd6pt]

Try transmission fluid and acetone as a penitrating fluid

[@yearight8666]

Heat it. Spray penetrant and use a small pipe wrench that will bite into the bolt. Works every time.

[@markhouston3404]

Ditch the gt85 and get a few tins of plusgas. Its a lot better at shifting rust

[@shugg4524]

Heat and bend into an Alan key shape and simply turn with your mole grips!😁

[@francislintonellis8402]

helicoil for the head bolt once its out if you have to drill it out

[@stevedyer302]

i am just up the road, if you want me to pop down with a welder and put a nut on the seized bolt let me know, my welding sucks but i can manage that if it helps you out, would cut it down too so more force gets to the thread and not the shaft of the bolt.

[@livesgas]

Barn find. Lol, should of left it there. Good luck.

[@BikesofRye]

Might still return it

[@VSUKWizard]

I no expert but what I would do (with the rod) is Keep it wet with GT85 for a few days then if you dont have a welder to add somthing to turn it with (ie a nut) then a cheap way could be tap a tread and double nut it. Also during the soaking time hit it like a nail occasionaly to give it a little shock.

[@rustyblade5845]

Try heating the case not the bolt. Metal expands with heat, heating the bolt can make it tighter. Weld a bar on the bolt first let it cool then heat the case.

[@twin40dave]

I think you need proper heat. i dont think the blow torch will get it hot enough. I think you need to crank it up abit , heat is definitely your friend's good luck

[@allanrobinson621]

Ry can we get a discount on the gt85, ive bin using it for a good 10+ now, and its gone up with a bang last few years. Another cracking video fella keep up the good work.

[@theriggsworkshop8606]

Oh.. David silver.. Youl need that name for you rebuild 😉

[@BikesofRye]

I've just looked - that website is great 👍🏼

[@originalshadowfax]

GT85? ................... you never seem to mention it much? 😁. Been using it for a number of years now, centre aisle of Aldi, always get a few tins in and its as good as WD40 and much cheaper.

[@malcolmgibbs-e5c]

keep going, love the show very interesting🤞👍

[@BikesofRye]

Thanks, will do!

[@yeahbuddy4373]

Rye get some plus gas in your workshop for those stubborn nuts and bolts it works wonders

[@dave8204]

ACF 50 is better than GT85 for very badly corroded stuff,it's also massively more expensive but you get what you pay for. I use both,GT85 for more regular stuff,ACF50 for difficult jobs and it's an amazing anti-corrosion agent to "winterise" your bike as well and while it's far from cheap you don't need much of it. Acetone is good as well but I don't know if you can get it in non-industrial sizes,nasty stuff as well and has to be handled properly but probably your best bet for that engine bolt. Whatever you use do it every day for a few days to let it really soak in. Don't forget also given the state of the threads on that bolt you got out the remaining is likely to be just as bad or worse..........so the female threads probably knacked as well.

[@1..matt..1]

Ahh yes the classic honda SOHC pushrod engine 😂

[@BikesofRye]

🤓

[@smoll.miniatures]

Get the engine vapour blasted mate… it’s worth it

[@iwanvanderhut4159]

Heat the center stand and quench it, this should break the rust.

[@philelliott5327]

Lots of 250 superdreams were abandoned early in their lives after owners discovered walking was quicker and more rewarding than riding a Superdream/Superdribble.😂

[@stevebandit1964]

Most of us lads who got off our ' peds ' and onto 250s in the 80s had a Superdream at some point and I personally found them a nice comfortable ride with a smooth gear change and if you wanted speed then buy an LC, X7, KH etc..

[@dukie1616]

Honestly you’re developing not only skills but patience as well. Trials and tribulations, I’m here for the whole build and ride. Keep up the great work👏 Also your filming and editing is getting quite good.

[@BikesofRye]

Thanks Dukie mate!

[@andy34UK]

not the first to do that with those bolts... did it years ago on a spare engine i had

[@Fieltrom]

"Crucial" when your doing those old head bolts or any high torqued bolts is crack one, turn both ways so its free. Do it back up and move onto next bolt till u got them all. Essentially fully undoing 1 at a time your leaving all that pressure on the last couple of bolts making snapped bolt situations easier to ruin your day. Could cut it lower and thread that bolt, get a couple of nuts on it, nuts pull on each other locking it up.

[@comfysofa1549]

Definately strip the motor r to the crankcases and get it cerakoted!

[@KentRoads]

ALL THAT WORK YOUR SELF TO THEN SEND IT OFF TO BE PAINTED :'(

[@BikesofRye]

The frame really needs a professional finish no?

[@bobatporty]

Might as well have one thing that been done correctly and not bodged

[@BikesofRye]

@@bobatporty you really hurt my feelings you're so mean 😭

[@mattw1876]

Oooh, saucer of milk for bobatporty!…let’s see YOUR best efforts, matey.

[@Blackhart50]

G, day you need a press to get Bolt out

[@Nicknofish]

Heat is your friend, use lots of it. By the way, is gt 85 any good? Lol.

[@shainexxxsescrimshaw7605]

U need proper penetrating oil

[@steviewylie5267]

Screwfix sell a freezesprsy called crackit around £6ish got me out of a few dodgy times.

[@RonaldDaub-xi5jz]

There are such things as stud extractor

[@paulwilkinson5163]

Try hitting it with the hammer,and no tippy taps,be a man and whale on it,if you dont hit your hand in the process, your doing it wrong

[@BikesofRye]

Sledge hammer next

[@twizzlestickx7]

Grind stud off leaving an inch then weld a nut on it the heat from welding nut on will free it off

[@jamestestarossa7870]

Funny looking pushrods 🤔😂

[@doogie4376]

Heat the frame not the pivot

[@fantastic1965]

I'd have probably left that in the barn

[@ProphetAndLoss]

Where’s the fun in that? 😂

[@gntdriver2840]

You would be very lucky to find any old Honda that did not have the shaft seized into the centre stand, ive came across many in the past where the shaft itself sits in the frame and is free to rotate instead of having a pinch bolt securing it at one end,and many owners would hardly ever use the centre stand which accelerated the time it took for the shaft to seize in the stand BTW when you replace the front mudguard please please please dont use one of those horrible universal chrome things which so many people do on their restorations,they look absolutely terrible and let down an otherwise top quality restoration

[@tonytasker489]

GT85? PFFT. Get yourself some BullDog BDX. It's far better. 😁

[@dave8204]

So is ACF50. Much more expensive but you get what you pay for,GT85 is good as a WD40 replacement, ACF is much better than both.

[@bobatporty]

He's angling for sponsorship, he's telling you how good GT85 is yet doesn't know the difference between OHC and push rods 😂😂

[@BikesofRye]

Thanks mate

[@billmago7991]

cb250.....kinda like restoring an old toothbrush😂......have fun anyway👍

[@originalshadowfax]

You definately need an Angle grinder, every workshop has and needs a angle grinder

[@TringmotionCoUk]

Ferrosol is the best penetrating spray

[@garyb931]

I think I would attack the side stand with an angle grinder, it looks pretty US anyway.

[@TheSweetasanut]

Heat blow torch

[@BrookyGSA]

Thermonuclear warfare will get the last bolt out....maybe 😉

[@astrostrotch]

Get a bigger hammer and get it out earlier! A lot earlier 😂

[@itfc3]

Ryan from Ryan's garage had the same problem check out his video on it might help

[@bethhobbs5911]

a proper penetrating fluid like PB blaster would help you a lot!

[@adidoney1505]

I say this in jest... You can tell you've never worked on plant 😂 Firstly, you need a lump hammer. Secondly, you need to hit it like another man on your woman. Then you'll make progress 😉 As said, long bolts like that will never appreciate a big leverage without some form of help at the threads. It's like trying to undo something with 5 extensions on it, you can never get the torque to the source. I've never used one, but I feel like you'd benefit from one of those ring induction heaters, they're really good for snapped studs

[@alanrichardson1672]

Can you please explain how multiple extension bars prevent the "torque" from reaching the fastener?

[@adidoney1505]

@@alanrichardson1672 Its called "spring twist". I googled it and this statement explains it.. Your extension acts as a torsional spring and by installing it, you dull out the sharp impact as the extension twists a little and delivers a slightly softer blow (over a longer time period) to the bolt head. This makes the impact wrench less effective in unsticking the bolt. I was an engineer for years, and it was always easier if you swap out a longer extension for a shorter one

[@thomaslundberg5588]

Bet you regret opening up the engine just to polish it now 🤣