Reconditioning the oil finish on your milsurp rifle

After your rifle gets really wet it's time to recondition the oil finish.

[@m2gjam139]

I know you might not see this but I just finished using your system on one of my M1 rifles. It came out really nice I did it over 6 days. I've had the piece since the early eighties I got two of them. Also a nice selection of milsurp rifles. I got the M1s when I was a young Soldier the others too they were giving them away back then. I served thirty years in the United States Army almost twenty in the Ranger Regiment I retired in 2010. I rarely fired them between training and deployments the last thing I wanted to do was shoot for recreation. I have modern weapons too. No AR platforms because I live in New York State so I switched to Ruger Mini thirty and Mini 14 as well as a M1A. They have the same DNA as the M1rifle. Now I'm retired so I can enjoy them. I shoot all my rifles I'm a shooter not a collector. I reload and been conserving ammo for years. Nice to see someone using Enfield to hunt. I will use the system on a few others. Thanks for your videos.

[@MrTudenom]

I'm very happy it turned out for you! The M1 is a special rifle, there's nothing else quite like them.

[@SkinnySuge69]

can't stop laughing at how nice this guy is i love it

[@voluablelaconic]

Great vid! I loved the addition of the song at the end. Heavy Metal was a great movie.

[@MrTudenom]

Thats great nyborg man!

[@Uncle_Bob_K]

Great video. I bought a No. 4 Mk I in the 1980's and it was sporterized ( in the 1960's) and fitted with a modern civilian style butt stock. It was one of my first mil-surp rifles and the only one I still own. I love shooting it and I have learned how to reload ammo for it. In recent years, thanks to Ebay, I was able to find all the parts to restore it to it's original configuration or as close as I possibly can. I was very fortunate to find someone in England that had quite a few complete sets of NOS (new-old stock) wooden stocks that he got at a surplus auction (his story). I paid dearly for one set and when I finally received it, it was as he said; a complete set of "new", non-issued, wooden parts and I was very pleased. These wood parts I believe are made of either birch or beech wood and are considerably light in color. I often wondered how to coax the wood to be a darker color without using stain. Now, I know I just have to be patient and take a little better care of the wood. Thanks for sharing the info.

[@MrTudenom]

Good to hear that you rescued a sporter. Well done.

[@shockwave6213]

I did the same with a P14 Enfield in a sporter stock I found at a pawn shop last year for $200. The very dark, sometimes black or super dark purple color is just aged oil that has picked up grime and dirt over time. This is very common with the Indian and Australian rifles because of the climate. The British rifles were often almost white or even a yellowish amber color when they were issued in WW2.

[@arprecisionmodshop-1446]

This video was done incredibly well, Great job!

[@MrTudenom]

Thank you very much!

[@michaelbartha-fp1im]

Awesome video and great tips. Love the closing music, going to re-watch the movie today ...LOL

[@peghead]

I am a retired painter, solvent-based wood stain wiping rags are also notorious for spontaneous combustion, Whenever we did a large oil staining project, at day's end, we would hang the stain-soaked rags in a single, flat layer on any horizontal surface we could utilize to dry overnight. Once the rags were dry, stiff and relatively odor-free, we would discard them. In our area, years ago, a church congregation gathered to stain newly installed woodwork, they tossed their wet stain-soaked wiping rags in brown paper shopping bags at the end of the day, the church burned down overnight due to the rags catching fire.

[@markusaralius]

Ouch! I thought everyone (or at least enough so 1 or 2 in a group) knew about oil or chemicals left on used rags was a fire hazard.

[@Fred-rv2tu]

Thanks for the video. I just got a M1 Garand with a new walnut stock that needs oiling.

[@danpos1971]

Great video. It's nice to see it done properly. And more important, instruction people to do it properly. Well done! Current boiled linseed oil has chemicals added to make it dry faster. It's now toxic, when decades ago it was literally boiled linseed oil. RAW linseed oil looks much richer. I have a copy of the A.C.I from 1940 stating RAW linseed oil for Lee Enfields. I warm the raw linseed oil a little before I use it. I don't thin the linseed oil either. Lightly rubbing the oil in with 0000 steel wool will even the finish if the stock is in rough condition. I repeat the linseed oil process until the wood stops absorbing the oil. I let the oil soak in for two days, then use a tooth brush to remove any gelled areas in the stock.

[@cameronbooker445]

I recently read something maybe you have incites actual documents to back it up. (1942 savage no4 mk1* and 45 longbranch no4mk1* here). Unit Armourers in wartime and not.. would once a year as part of regular maintenance disassemble each rifle and dip the fore end, upper furnitures and butt stock into hot tank of boiled linseed oil. I've read "dipped" and in different conversations have read 8 hours. I'm trying to finish up the wood restoring my sporter long branch

[@macrokaiju]

anyone else have Bob Ross in thier head as he's painting on the linseed oil?

[@towarzyszbeagle6866]

Ah the No.4MkI, a fine rifle. If the contact is a bit off at the knox you can always tape it off leaving a 1x1 inch square in the centre of it and bed it there with something like arcaglass.

[@nicholasb600]

This man was made for KZbin

[@MrTudenom]

You're too kind!

[@mikebrzoska9741]

Excellent job. Over on the milsurp world channel, he uses magic eraser to clean up the stock then apply some linseed oil. I’ve got to give that a try on my K 98K. I also heat up the linseed oil that I am working with.

[@factorybear5264]

I love the soaked in smell of the cosmoline in my stock.

[@wolfpack4694]

That looks good. I’m doing a No 1 Mk III* and am going to use raw linseed oil also. Wish my forend was in better shape. Repairing the draws currently. Just replaced the barrel. Can’t wait to get it out to the range. Thanks!

[@cameronbooker445]

Did you build your own barrel vice and reciever wrench by chance?

[@wolfpack4694]

@@cameronbooker445 hi Cameron. No, I sent the new barrel and old receiver to Brian Dick of BDL Ltd. He did a great job installing the new barrel to the old receiver. After repairing the draws and attempting to zero it, I ended up buying a new forend and am having it fitted up by a local gunsmith. It shoots great groups but too far to the right due to the repairs I made to the old draws in the old forend. My million dollar Frankengun will be a tack driver when I’m finally done with it.

[@johnclarke6647]

The best way to dry a wit rifle or shotgun is to let it sit near a warm stove or heater overnight and then oil things up and redcoat the stock. I like a mixture of gasoline and automotive oil to clean up gun parts. 2 gallons of non ethanol gas and a quart of oil. Soak the parts in it and then blow them off with compressed air and wipe dry with a shop towel. Barrels and gas system I clean as normal. Trigger and bolt groups I just soak and blow dry with air.

[@PewpewPartik]

I'm happy to see I'm not the only one that wipes down their guns with old clothes. The old PJs was cracking me up.

[@MrTudenom]

I had an old set of under shorts to use as well, but I figured children might be watching.

[@Gottaculat]

The OCD in me at the end sees 3 stripper clips (15 rounds), but also knows the mag holds 10 rounds, so seeing 1.5 mags of ammo... **Internal screaming intensifies...**

[@tbonepumper5623]

Unless he in canada and only allowed 5 rounds

[@bucketlistbeginner]

Love the show we all use it but WD40 is for ‘water displacement’ not an oil per say. Keep up the good shows!

[@wmdevittdevitt2686]

iam redoing my 1949 sks in boiled linseed but doing a slight sand in finish but rub it in by hand till it gets nice and hot let it dry then reapply like one coat a day till it wont take any more then polish it down with rooten stone and buff to a nice semi gloss

[@kenlansing1216]

Can't argue with the results.

[@oOManiacMikeOo]

This video is great! Made my M1a stock look awesome! Funny thing Is when the video speeds up around 20 min and the music starts, my wife thought I had porn on my phone. Lmao! Great video!

[@MrTudenom]

LOL It was "flight of the bumble bee" but KZbin didn't like it.

[@misgrego]

It was…gun porn.

[@peghead]

I've had five Enfields, 4- No.1's and 1 No.4, ALL the front sights were offset to the right side of the dovetail except one that a centered front sight yet had all indications of being refurbished (Lithgow manufactured 1917, butt stock stamped 1942). When I fired the Lithgow specimen, sure enough, I had to drift the front sight to the right to acquire 'zero', it must be inherent in the SMLE's OR all my Enfields suffered from offset stock-bedding.

[@gregwilliams386]

I'm viewing this video in 2021. Well done. I might suggest on the sling that the cleats be turned outward away from the stock.

[@user-qn7yq3eo2q]

Best video using Government methods of finishing the stock. What brand Linseed Oil do you use?

[@c_breezy4596]

Drink everytime he says oil

[@Playingwith3D]

I have a sportsterized 1908 No1 Mk3, It is basically just a wall hanger but I still would be very intimidated stripping it down that much just because of its age. I would love to restore it for its personal historical value. The butt stock is original but the fore stock isn't, and it is just 1 piece. The rear sight guards have also been removed. I have thought about buying a walnut replacement stock but I would not want to replace the butt stock, and I know I don't have the woodworking skills to match up a 120 year old piece of walnut to a brand new fore stock. lol

[@DwJ5188]

Great video dude!

[@johnclarke6647]

I would use Breakfree to oil any metal parts. You are right, WD40 leaves a gummy residue that even a wire wheel will not take off. I use paint thinner to thin linseed oil or mineral spirits. Turpentine costs to much and is hard to find. Plus it smells.

[@massimothetrog7111]

don't wad up a rag that has linseed oil on it....it can catch fire. ask me how i know.

[@richardsabo7917]

How do you know?😂

[@massimothetrog7111]

@@richardsabo7917 i almost burned down my gramps shed.

[@joelopezjl28]

I've heard of that. Does it cause an exothermic reaction orrr?

[@pvtryan72]

I've done the same thing the first time I refinished my first gun as a kid. Big ol burn hole in the shop table

[@albirasistendragen]

soothing asmr

[@jakeallgeier4503]

Thanks for the video! Does the stock need to be cleaned in any special way before the RLO is applied?

[@peghead]

If one chooses Tung oil, make absolutely sure it's 100% Tung oil. Many products marketed as Tung oil actually contain very little, you will be disappointed if you use such a product, I speak from experience.

[@allyn1016]

I assume this process of applying the oil to the wood does not discolor metal parts that you cannot remove.

[@flydoc7896]

what do you use to clean the rifle first before applying the linsead oil

[@donaldmorrison5289]

NOTE: Oily linseed rags are extremely dangerous if not disposed of properly!! Spontaneous combustion will occur even in the open if left overnite. Believe me I know!

[@chiliboom6140]

Thank you for this video, sir! This will be my go-to. May I ask where you got the spray lube?

[@donhalliday6447]

Great video! Lots of detail and care went into that process. Did you get a moose with it?

[@MrTudenom]

Nope, got skunked! The moose population in this region is in rough shape and numbers are low. I suspect it's a combination of stuff including changes to pine beetle damaged forests (blow down and lack of cover), plentiful forest road access for wolves and hunters, increased use of spray defoliant, ticks, and poaching by people who should know better.

[@clamum9648]

Thanks for the video. I'm thinking about putting some linseed on my M1 Garand stock. It's not a collector rifle; all of the serial numbers are mismatched, but it's in pretty good condition. But I want to take care of the wood and make sure it lasts. Do you think doing some light sanding with fine sandpaper would help? I haven't tried it, but it just seems like brushing the oil on that M1 stock wouldn't penetrate too much, like the stock seems like it's kinda covered with whatever already, like it's not bare wood.

[@stfuandLiftBtCh]

Yes would help

[@clamum9648]

@@stfuandLiftBtCh Thanks. Haven't done it yet but I want to. I also have a Yugo M48 (K98k clone) and an M1 Carbine that I want to do that with, especially the M1 Carbine since that stock is pretty rough condition.

[@Gottaculat]

I'm wondering how it'd fare with Minwax Antique Oil Finish, which is what I used on a custom red oak grip I made for my all steel service pistol. The finish on my grip has been holding up very well despite being exposed to my body heat and sweat every day, and it really makes the beauty in the grain of the wood pop. It's quite a bit different process than using linseed oil, and I don't even know it'd be wise to use Minwax on linseed, as I'm not a chemist and don't know if it'd be hazardous or damage the wood. Might be best for me to just stick with linseed oil, so as not to ruin the beautiful black walnut stock Long Branch put on my rifle.

[@benc1927]

I think the Minwax Antique Oil Finish would be a good idea as it is a blend of boiled linseed oil and varnish.

[@Jojo69869]

Can you dry linseed oil on metal to create a protective coat? Wouldn't it be like a hard wax?

[@flare9757]

Question: My M1 has overdone furniture varnish on it, any suggestions on how to get it off?

[@bennettguns3809]

I've been into military rifle for a very long time but, some of what you say I've never heard before(military using raw linseed seed oil instead of BLO? have to tell you I've known some military armorers who dispute this), are you positive this is true?

[@bennettguns3809]

LINSEED OIL NEVER COMPLETELY DRIES!!!

[@colinwalker6102]

hi. after you let the metal parts soak in oil , what did you do to them before reassembling the rifle?

[@MrTudenom]

I just give them a wipe with a rag or paper towel to take off the excess oil.

[@mrdiplomat9018]

I’m surprised that you didn’t use anything to prepare the wood at all. I have a Mosin that was armory refinished- of course the whole thing was absolutely covered in every square millimeter with cosmoline. One guy says to sprinkle the stock with baby powder, then use a heat gun to melt the cosmo out, which is then absorbed by the powder. Your thoughts on that, etc. ? Thanks for your input ✌🏻

[@MrTudenom]

I got lucky the previous owner did all the decosmoline work :) the powder method sounds messy, but it would make an interesting experiment.

[@allanragnarson7898]

I can confirm that it does work but it shockingly makes the wood look lile it has a whitish stain. I ended up steaming mine out entirely and applying a coat of tru oil stain.

[@j.p.4541]

Mr Diplomat I just received my original Chinese military SKS rifle and needless to say it was caked in cosmoline. The 2 easiest way to remove the cosmoline from your rifle, which I did, were using a bin of odorless mineral spirits for the metal parts (soak them) followed by boiling water then blow out with air to remove any remaining moisture. As for the wood I put just the stock out in the sun and let the cosmo sweat out of the wood while wiping the cosmo off with a cloth. Or you can use a blow dryer and heat the wood that way while wiping off the cosmo. A little mineral spirits on the rag will help remove it while you’re wiping it off.

[@NgJackal1990]

So basically you just put oil on the wood stock and wait then redo it all over.

[@nicholasb600]

Any thoughts on putting linseed oil on a stock that has shellac? I have a K31, Mosin and a new production ak that I would love to feed linseed oil but I dont know if the shellac will block it. I want to keep the original finishes but want to keep the rifles forever. Should I just focus on not damaging the shellac over time? Thank you :)

[@MrTudenom]

That's an interesting question, the only rifles on your list I've ever owned were Mosin's but they were Finnish reworks and weren't shellacked. I think shellac is a type of tree resin thinned with alcohol, so my guess is that BLO wouldn't penetrate. I'd be afraid of the oil getting in through scrapes and thin spots and then lifting the surrounding shellac from the wood. Probably the best bet would be to consult someone who refinishes vintage furniture, I bet they know a thing or two about shellac and how to match existing finishes. Sorry I can't be more help!

[@nicholasb600]

@@MrTudenom I agree with your thoughts on linseed oil not penetrating the shellac. I also felt very leery about applying it. Your sentiment about it potentially lifting the shellac hit that leery nerve I had about the whole situation. And ahhh yes, vintage furniture enthusiasts would definitely be able to help me down the road. For now I will just be a good steward of the shellac x). It just feels wrong to not nourish a rifle but these shellac finishes have lasted waaaay longer than I've been around.

[@danpos1971]

Your Swiss K31 has it's own recipe. Here is the proper link to instruct you what to do. www.tapatalk.com/groups/theswissriflesdotcommessageboard/the-original-swiss-stock-finish-recipies-t10847.html

[@danpos1971]

@@MrTudenom Shellac is actually a product of a beetle shell. Finnish rifles use Finnish Stock Oil. Not a shellac or Pine Tar. With a Finnish rifle, leave it as is. No need to do anything.

[@jordanlittle5391]

You can also find a scrap stock to play with

[@comodice905]

Bloke take better care of dat gunney....pues Como que en El Dia en que LA conoci ist dein Auf Das licht is bucko for

[@comodice905]

Bloke that was done by pros