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On a recent pickup shoot, I had the rare opportunity to film with both the RED Komodo 6k and an Arri SR2 with 250D Vision3 Stock at the same time.
UPDATE: I recently tried the FilmBox trial version, and with very few tweaks to temp and tint, I was able to get an almost exact match! FilmBox is way ahead of the entire pack if you want a quick conversion to film emulation, however it doesn't have as many settings to tweak. It's also by far the most expensive. You can get there with Dehancer, but you're going to have to do a bunch of hue adjustments and saturation tweaking. See my FilmboxLite comparison clip here - • RED Komodo + FilmBox L...
I decided to do a matching test, because I wanted to try out the different film emulation software that I own.
On the Kodak 250D, the CU shot was filmed on a 12-120 Zeiss T3 at around 35mm (90mm FF equivalent) and T9 at 6:30AM
On the RED, the CU shot was filmed on a 50mm Contax Zeiss at around F8 at 6:35AM, and then digitally zoomed to match the Kodak frame in post.
Out of all of the film emulation software (Cineprint16, Filmconvert, Dehancer, Juan Melara FilmUnlimited Powergrades), Dehancer got me closest right away with a very accurate brightness value conversion. Juan Melara's FilmUnlimited and Cineprint both had very nice blues and greens, but the skin tones were slightly off.
The default colors in Dehancer were very desaturated and there were some hue and saturation adjustments to be made for a good match.
All adjustments were made to nodes before the Dehancer node:
I increased the saturation on the RED using a negative saturation node (HSV color space, turn off channels 1 and 3, then boost gain by about 30). I also raised the Log shadows on the RED by about 5 to match my simple Kodak grade.
Then, the most glaring color difference were in the greens. The Dehancer conversion was rendering them way too yellow, so I dragged the yellow towards green in the Hue spider-web. The skin tone hues didn't change, just I put a bit more saturation into them. I also compressed the saturation along the purple-green axis, and did some rotation along the yellow-green-cyan towards blue.
Grain on Dehancer was set to about 10 intensity and 5-6 size, with 80% chroma color and a 0% film resolution to match the Kodak grain. All other settings (halation, bloom, compression, gate weave, breathing, etc.) were turned on but left at default.
I added a very light "Film Damage" with white dust spots only to the Komodo footage after the Dehancer node with a density of 2. All film damage settings except for dust were turned off.
I'm very happy with these results. I believe that it shows that given its 16-bit color image and around 13 stops of dynamic range, the RED Komodo comes within .5 stops of Kodak film and can be manipulated into a very close resemblance using a good matching tool like Dehancer and other basic adjustments.