Bleeding TR6060 Clutch & Wilwood - What I Learned

[@JimSampson-y6v]

Ton of work you did !.. i used the same 7/8" wilwood master cyl on a 240sx / ls1 swap. Works great fer about a 6 months then fails.... poor bore smoothness... seals fail. I had a spare and changed it over when the poor quality wilwood cyl failed. I send failed one back to wilwood and they send me a new one ...free ! Did this for 3 years.... finally switched to a JFZ master cyl. ... it has interchangeable bore cartridges. you can switch to one of 3 different bores. 3/4, 7/8, 1".... anyway... no problems fer last 5 years. Couldn't say it's "better" clutch feel... it's about the same. Anyway... hope yer wilwood lasts longer than most do.

[@RedlineStands]

Hate to hear that. Given how little I drive it, it's likely to last for a long time.

[@jessenicholas6782]

You explained exactly what I’m going through right now with a McLeod master on my TR6060 swapped 69 Camaro. I’ve done all the steps you have and still don’t have a working clutch. I’m ready to set the thing on fire at this point. They really need to come up with a better solution to bleed this system. Glad you got yours working!

[@dougadams9822]

I converted my 55 Chevy to Muncie 4speed hydronic clutch.went through Wilwood and they said the same 3/4" master cylinder and spent a month trying to figure out why it wouldn't disengage . Ordered the same one u got but in a 1" bore and it works fine now. I also am using 3-an line

[@billmcbillface7467]

I'm glad I found this video! Had the same issue with the T10 swap in my Squarebody. I swapped to the larger master and bam! I have a clutch. Thanks!!

[@RedlineStands]

I'm glad to hear my tribulations are helping others!

[@TheRaulr151]

Holy cow!! Talk about trouble shooting till it hurt! I’m doing this now and hopefully mine is enough for my T5.

[@abelgonzalez5937]

I’m glad I came across your video as I too am having issues with that master cylinder I have bled it like 10 times and still can’t seem to get the transmission to go into 1st gear my guess is that I don’t have enough fluid going through the line to disengage the clutch to put it in gear. I did a conversion auto to manual and I swapped a th350 for a tremec tkx

[@kathyrobmaglio4501]

Thanks for the update 🎉

[@Dr_Xyzt]

Take your factory clutch slave and throw it as far as you can. Get a Tilton 6000 or an American Powertrain Hydramax. Both of those have external bleeders. Remove the gasket from the reservoir lid and re-install the lid. Have a friend put 1-5 PSI to the little breather hole in the reservoir lid while you open the bleeder. Reinstall the gasket in the reservoir lid. I use a 1" master in my swap, and the pedal is quite stiff with the Hydramax. I did a 7/8" master and Tilton slave in a 5.0 swap and it came out near-stock.

[@Brody-Dolyniuk]

Man. It’s great to see someone else out there suffering as much as me! 😆

[@RedlineStands]

Misery loves company!

[@BeatenRustBuckets]

So a little fast math tells us you have to have all the lines and adapters in the system 1/8 id to get the fluid to cover more distance but the size of the slave cylinder will mess yah up? Years ago had a guy come in who replaced his rear end but the brakes were scary after, he replaced the master and flex hoses trying to get it to work. When I let him tell me the whole story I asked if he used his backing plates or the ones that came with the rear end.... long story short 1 1/8" wheel cylinders do not work in a system that was designed for 3/4 wheel cylinders. I feel your pain thanks for sharing.

[@RedlineStands]

I personally do not see that all the lines being the same size would change anything. It's all about the amount of fluid that's displaced by the master cylinder. That's just pi times r-squared and then multiply by the stroke length of the master. From that point, once you fill all the lines with fluid and get the air out, it doesn't matter if they're 1/8" lines, 3/8" lines, or both. At the end of the day, the master will push it's same volume of fluid regardless of the line size. The line size really just does two things. It can increase your fluid volume if you're using large lines, or it can cause a traffic jam as the fluid tries to get from the master to the slave cylinder in the event the lines are too small. Well, at least, that's my opinion.

[@BeatenRustBuckets]

@@RedlineStands You are correct about the amount it moves what I am saying is the smaller the tube the more movement of fluid because there is less ....... makes it easier to bleed because you can move the bubble of air further with each stroke of the cylinder.

[@RedlineStands]

@@BeatenRustBuckets I cannot disagree with that.

[@nuclearknight8543]

Dude, you sound just like me I have had so many issues with my clutch pedal breaking because it’s cheap plastic where it goes up into the dash I had to custom make almost every single component. 😢

[@ASEKen]

If you really want vacuum, Don't play with hand pumps, use a 2 stage A/C vacuum pump and a chamber to separate the air from the liquid. You will get 30" hg, and you don't need to bench bleed, just install vacuum for 15 minutes and done, no air. Saturn and Honda had clutchs that have no bleeder and only used a Cone to bleed, I use the vacuum on clutches and brakes, masters, abs hcu's, everywhere, on some occasions you may have to burp a bleeder with a 1 second open and close. Gravity will spit it out.

[@KSIXRIDER]

Customer ain't what it used to be.

[@dp4racing]

What is your pedal ratio? Are you using a willwood pedal assembly?

[@RedlineStands]

Pedal ratio? Idk. Yes sir. I'm using a 340-14360

[@ronmiller1162]

it seams as though the more time that goes by the less people want to give any sorta help your episode was on the funny side for me but i m willing to bet you were at the end of your rope with this

[@RedlineStands]

Correct sir.

[@DieselRamcharger]

your -4 braided line was the issue.

[@RedlineStands]

No sir. I was able to identify that the first master cylinder was too small. This is proven in the end of the video.

[@DieselRamcharger]

@@RedlineStands we build a little over 100 cars a year, 2 a week. i can guarantee you, the problem is the volume of your system. a smaller system or a larger swept volume from the master IS THE SAME THING. I know you want to toot your own horn here. But you just had it setup like shit. a 3/4 master is plenty for a hydraulic throw out.. This is proven by every honda on the planet. however your -4 is was and will forever be the problem. the routing is bad, the design of the master is bad. but the problem is the design capacity of the system was too large for the master. No fault of the master. Which you PROVED with the capped port test. Fuckin Amateurs.

[@DieselRamcharger]

@@RedlineStands this is very simple. the larger the diameter of the tube, the less linear distance fluid will move per given amount of displacement change. Because, wait for it, the larger tube has a larger displacement! holy science batman!

[@RedlineStands]

@@DieselRamcharger I respectfully disagree. This isn't about linear distance, it's about volumetric flow rate. If the line is fully full of fluid, and the master cylinder moves .85 cubic inches of fluid on the front end, then .85 cubic inches of fluid will move at the slave cylinder regardless of the size of the line that connects them. It's the law of continuity. It basic says that in a closed system, what comes in must go out.

[@DieselRamcharger]

@@RedlineStands volumetric flow rate has absolutely nothing to do with a dead headed hydraulic system. you are talking of your ass. the VOLUME of the system was too large. Period. Flow rate means nothing. Push the pedal fast, push the pedal slow. itll make no difference. Because you are compressing air you couldnt bleed because you lacked enough master volume to advance the bubble beyond your vertical loop. This is no rocket science dude. Its very ultra simple physics. Bubbles float. When you released the pedal the bubble went back to the top of the line, where it lived forever.