Reduce Planer Snipe | Making a New Compact Planer Bed for the Thickness Planer

I bought myself a thickness planer. I already knew, that thickness planers in this size have problems with planer snipe. Also my new thickness planer has this problem. I tried to eliminate the planer snipe with different settings, but with no success. So i decide to make a new planer bed in the hope, that this bed will eliminate the planer snipe. It is a very simple construction and easy to build. Unfortunately, this new planer bed has not eliminate the planer snipe. But it reduced the planer snipe enormous. Maybe i will find a solution in the future which eliminates the planer snipe completely.
ISBI
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#ISimplyBuiltIt #woodwork #workshop
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[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

What have you done to reduce or even eliminate Snipe?

[@raikglamann]

Just an adjustment on both infeed and outfeedtable.

[@raikglamann]

But that wasn't enough to eliminate the snipe of course...

[@Dingbat217]

Feed in a sacrificial piece ahead of the stock you want to plane down, and another following the stock, the two sacrificial pieces needs to be the same thickness as the stock and must lead / follow the stock with no gaps. the two sacrificial pieces will then take the snipe which is caused bu the way the feed rollers are engaging with the stock and is very hard to avoid. You can also run the stock you want to plane along / parallel with a longer sacrificial piece, that way the longer sacrificial piece takes the snipe. Or just make your stock long enough to cut off the snipe in both eds when done planing it. :-)

[@MakinSawdust]

i have a WEN planer that is quite similar to yours and it still leaves a little snipe sometimes. I greatly reduced mine however with the planer bed that i built. I think the problem exists in the spring loaded roller assemblies. I may have a solution for that as well. Have a great day friend.

[@noobsound]

The snipe that u are getting is from the movement between the bed and the machine. When feeding material your whole machine is moving a bit from the BED. The solution is to fix your machine with your bed on too a solid material like solid kitchen tabletop and u will have zero snipe. I saw a similar gig and the guy noticed the machine moving while editing the video of the gig. The solution was the one i wrote it above.

[@richardpearcey]

I think an additional feed roller on each end is the answer. I believe when the wood is in contact with only one roller, as it enters or exits, it will lift one end enough to gouge into the surface. I believe it would help to have 2 rollers holding the board at all times.

[@ryananthony4840]

True, but also the factory in and outfeed tables on these portable planers are so flimsy.... I just bought one and I'm gonna make some solid ones and a little longer and go from there. I'd also like to make an independent drive system so I can have variable speed, and it would give all the hp back to the cutter motor

[@frankcornfield5915]

Very useful video. I received my Tripton today and did a few tests. I realised that a continuous bed for the planer was a useful and simple upgrade.

[@johnc6440]

I consider Mathias Wandels analysis of the reasons for snipe is probably correct. That us the head rocks a little when only one roller is pressing down on the wood at the start and end of the pass. So doing something with the base will have little impact. You will need to lock the head, something cheap “lunchbox” machines cannot offer. I believe that there are machines in the USA thar allow the head to be locked, which ought to help, i believe. Alternatively, as someone here commented, it is possible to manufacture brackets that fit under the head that locks the head, but you will need a set of brackets for each thickness. There is a KZbin videp about it I now just make the wood slightly long and trim the ends

[@jasonshortt7]

This video was great. First-time viewer of this channel but I subscribed 1/2 way through it. This guy's precision is awesome and even the making of the metal rod and guide rails was mesmerizing. As an unexpected bonus, I think his voice will be a great addition to the ASMR artists to help soothe me to sleep at night, and I mean that in the best possible way.

[@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230]

That is a very cool table and well made. I would like to make one for my planer for the occasional snip I get. The only difference for me is that it will have to be removable. My planer is built into my work/outfeed table. I remove a section of the table above the planer and put that aside. My planer is mounted on a piece of 1 1/2" plywood and beneath that is a scissor jack. The place on the jack where the handle would attach I had shaped the end of that "screw rod" so it receives the opening of my cordless drill. I attach the drill, turn it on and up goes my planer. I raise it just high enough that the planer bed is even with the work surface. I have removed the out and in-feed tables since my work table act as the "wings" of the planer.

[@-_AjB_-]

You mean snipe, not snip.

[@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230]

@@-_AjB_- Yes, Thank you.

[@janethatsmyname]

Thank you. Just what I need to make for my Triton. Spent a frustrating time trying to work around some snipe yesterday!

[@creativewoodworkingproject6184]

A very compact solution. Nicely done!

[@robertbascelli6433]

As the rollers grab the wood on the outfeed, it applies a bit of pressure to the board and moved the cutting head ever so slightly. Same as the infeed roller. Snipe can never be totally eliminated but significantly reduced. I think you have done all anyone can do to reduce snipe. At least through my tests.

[@raysmith1992]

Thank you I will be making one of these my bed is completely dented and I have not had to much trouble with snipe as I tend to take very small cuts. This is just what I need great video and commentary

[@-_AjB_-]

I have this planer and absolutely love it. Such a good price too compared to the Dewalt equivalent. Snipe is a big problem though. I usually feed sacrificial pieces through before and after the workpiece but it is a headache.

[@Dingbat217]

If your stock is narrow enough you can feed a linger slip sacrificial piece in parallel with your stock, that will then take the snipe.

[@DavidWilliams-bg5yk]

@@Dingbat217 thats a good idea, thank you.

[@bigmac1598]

If you need to thickness less than 10mm you could lay a 6mm piece of MDT on the bed with a stop block on the end to prevent it pulling through. You could use 9mm MDT if you need les than 5mm planed

[@danmoreton1788]

Outstanding skills! I think I'll get working on planer bed for my old Ryobi planer.

[@zxborg9681]

Add in a scarificial piece of wood the same thickness as your workpiece, butted against the starting end of your work. The snipe will occur on the sacrificial piece and leave the workpiece smooth.

[@mybreakingpoint]

Great work! I was wondering if some kind of press down roller at both the in feed and out feed side would work. Maybe a bracket mounted to the top with a spring or shock connected to a smooth roller to push gently down on the material as it enters and exits. I dont have the skill or tools to fabricate such a device, but maybe you can

[@richardpearcey]

I like your idea, my comment was to add an additional feed roller to each end. But an adjustable pressure roller would work.

[@boonphitphanthavong4334]

i like how you incorporate drawers to your drillpress. good job!

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

Thanks

[@terryevans6625]

I, too, made a different bed for my planer. It helped but didn't eliminate the problem. What I did to reduce the amount of snipe is took smaller bites into the wood. I also devised a wheel that allows me to lower the cutter 10 degrees at a time. I still get a little snipe once in a while, but its virtually eliminated. I might also add that my new bed folds down and is adjustable to reduce space needed for storage. My shop is pretty small. Hope this helps.

[@lasurvivor47]

Very nice work indeed. It sounded like Arnold Schwarzenegger was talking in this video. All kidding aside very nice work.

[@CogentConsult]

There’s still a little bit of snipe because there’s probably still a small bit of flex in your planer bed. A single thickness of particle board is not stiff enough. Use a second layer of stiff Baltic Birch plywood under that particle board. Just unscrew the two box supports you built, screw and glue a 2nd layer of Baltic Birch under the particle board, then screw those two box supports back on. Yes, you will reduce the capacity of your thickness planer a little more, but you will gain a lot more stiffness to your new planer feed table. If you still get snipe, check to make sure your new planer table is perfectly flat and level. If it’s not flat and level, you can remove those two support boxes you built and replace them with leveling feet that can be locked into their adjusted height. This should eliminate any remaining snipe.

[@georgescarlett2320]

Yeah, I went through all thisw crud too, only to find (as you did) that the S N I P E was ONLY Reduced, and not GONE. So I now use sacrificial boards at both in and outfeed. I'm a Guitar builder, and witf Fancy woods, I can't AFFORD Snipe!! Good video though mate. Cheers Gb

[@rickstills6716]

Nicely done. I need to do this to my 13 inch Ridged planer. 👍

[@claudeelliott3993]

Peripatetic come to mind watching your video!! Slowdown and relax and so will your viewers while they actually learn something!

[@ianandrews1511]

I have only found 1 way to reduce snipe down to almost nothing. I cant remember the video but it involves making cutter head blocks of specific thickness that you wind the rollers down on to. I havent even bothered doing this as i just add 50mm to either end at the moment. When im nearing final thickness i just take very very shallow cuts

[@ianthornton1642]

That looks really good, I think it was stumpy nubs who stuck on small strips of wood the the piece he was planing front and back which reduced snipe. It's a waste but I sometimes put in longer pieces than I need and then cut off the snipe . Not an ideal solution especially if using expensive timber

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

Thanks

[@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230]

I believe he used hot glue so the added pieces would come off without disturbing the wood that he was planing and he made the shims from scrap wood. By doing it that way you can re-use the shims several times before replacing them.

[@XJWill1]

@@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230 It would be difficult to reuse the strips because they get planed each time. If you plane your board to 18-mm, the strips will be 18-mm. So then you cannot use them again until you are planing a board to slightly less than 18-mm, and so on. If most of your boards are planed to the same thickness, then you will not get much reuse. One trick to use less strips is that you do not need to have only two long strips. Instead, you can use 4 short strips. Does not make much difference when you are planing short boards, but for longer boards it helps.

[@YKATO871]

Sometimes it’s the design of the machine itself, there can be movement in the carriage when the feed rollers make contact with the timber and the carriage moves.

[@Ace-ig6vs]

That drill press table is amazing. I need that in my life.

[@anthonyferreira5233]

Make the guides out of strips of hard wood, then lower the planer head to cut out the curves, so if you need to plane thinner pieces, no need to file down the guides.

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

That's a good idea.

[@wolframmaier2128]

Sehr gut gemacht, ich habe die gleiche Maschine, das selbe Problem und dachte mit dieser neuen Platte wäre das Problem gelöst. Nein, dieser "Hobelschlag" ist immer noch. Das lässt sich bei Maschinen in diesem Baustil nicht vermeiden. Ich mache meine Hobel Teile 50mm länger und schneide später den "Schlag" ab. Gruß aus München

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

Danke. Ich glaube das Problem ist die Motoreinheit. Die ist leicht beweglich. Ich denke wenn man diese Einheit in der benötigten Höhe fixieren könnte wäre das Problem gelöst.

[@garyhoward2186]

Muy bien sepillo

[@marty3553]

Nice 👍 bed

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

I don't have a thickness planer, but I've seen many videos with them and, in some cases you can see the planer structure twisting a bit - As I learned from an old machinist, the secret to consistent finishing results is - rigidity, rigidity, rigidity! Of course, this is wood not metal, but the same principle applies and these smaller machines have deficient structural rigidity. So, it seems you need to reinforce the structure, or lock the planer head while in use, so it cannot twist and contribute to snipe. This is just conjecture, once I have no experience with planers :-)

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

You're so right. I will fix this problem with my thickness planer in the future. I don't know how yet, but i will find a solution. There is a solution to every problem.

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

@@ISIMPLYBUILTIT That's the spirit! :-)

[@leonardorojas1781]

@@ISIMPLYBUILTIT How is it the problem nowadays?

[@carltonhill8914]

I have read a lot of suggestions and no one hits on it, all you need is some waste wood slightly thicker than your target wood but longer and run them either side and thus transferring the snipe to the waste and you have a perfect plane. Hope this helps.

[@siegfriedbecker8204]

Hallo, Erstmal danke fuer die guten videos. Eine Iddee Um den Snipe zu verhindern waeren Fuehrungsrollen im Ein- und Auslauf. Ich wuerde verticale Halter and die Seite von dem Bett schrauben. Dann horizontale Halter mit einer Rolle an Klemmstuecken so das sie in der Hoehe verstellt werden koennen. Diese wuerde ich dann auf die Flaeche anstellen mit einem minimalen Spalt so das der Transport vom Werkstueck gewaerleistet ist. Das sollte auf jeden fall die ganze Sache nochmals verbesseren. Am Auslauf wuerde ich 2 Rollen hintereinander anbringen so das das Wrkstueck auf dem Tisch gehalten wird.

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

Vielen Dank für die Tipps.

[@raysmith1992]

Thank you for this I have had the same problem it is virtually impossible to get the in-feed and out feed tables are level, I am going to make one myself

[@moshe-ben-herman2067]

Very good!!!

[@lesneilson5632]

you do need to add a hold down on the wood to stop it lifting before and after to save the snipe or just use you hands to hold it flat

[@billyjay4672]

Simplybuilt watched your video very interesting. And admired what you are doing I will be checking out your other vids keep up the good work. And I thought you had cracked it by building that new floor for the planer. Aw well back to the drawing board.lol.nice job anyway.

[@bertlamontagne2513]

I like THE way YOU work !!! 🤓👍🏼

[@CCSandSonsWorkshop]

Very nice solution. Keep up the great videos!

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

Thank you

[@Kayyyman]

Thanks for showing and thanks for the idea!

[@ryananthony4840]

Excellent build! Did you ever eliminate snipe completely?

[@chrismoody1342]

Tell you I don’t know about the plane setup. But I loved the drill press caddy/top.

[@patc7198]

I would have liked to have seen the results of your build

[@grahamwellman964]

I have the same thicknesses with same problem, I think all lunchbox thicknesses do, my solution was to hot glue battens to edges of board 3 inches longer at each end, eliminates all snipe removes twist and produces a flat board , without the need for a jointer

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

That's a good idea. But I will find a solution that eliminates snipe completely

[@grahamwellman964]

@@ISIMPLYBUILTIT look forward to that ' but I think it's the design of this type of machine

[@stevesiefken6432]

I SIMPLY BUILT IT I look forward to seeing your solution. Thanks!

[@1life2liveADV]

I have just purchased a dewalt thicknesser and have been following the youtube reviews on eliminating snipe. It seems eveyone uses the same methodologies of having level in out feeds tables. Now l am just new to this and actually haven't even put power to mine, but would it help to have a pressure roller or wheels on the in feed out feed of the planer to stop the flex in the material caused by the feed rollers. Any thoughts, or am l thinking to far outside the box.

[@Poor.Mans.Sweden]

Hi, can you please tell me how much the distance is between the infeed and outfeed rollers? I'm just wondering what the very minimum length of workpiece is that you can put through without risks. I know that the manual says 380mm, but I believe it's shorter in reality

[@intelligenceservices]

Matthias Wandel has a video on snipe that is also useful.

[@raikglamann]

Danke für das Video, ich beschäftige mich gerade mit dem gleichen Problem aber mit einem anderem Hobel. Wie lang hast du das Planerbed gemacht?

[@SergioMedina-jx5ps]

Great.. thanks a lot for sharing. I suscribes. Cheers.

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

Thanks

[@jaykepley5238]

Nice job! 👏👏👏🔥🔥🔥🖖

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

Thanks

[@deekando1068]

Cool stuff, so I subscribed 😁

[@wilhelmtaylor9863]

So when you use the new table does the snipe get substantially better than without it?

[@CHARLESBW453]

Screw the planer down to the table. And then the top Just made Screw that down to the table. Planer has a tendency to move. Just so slightly.

[@Critical-Thinker895]

Really nice, but now you'll have to make a video changing the roller bushings because that's what causes roller problems.

[@gordonhenderson1965]

I'm not so sure because the planer head is lifting after the workpiece gets under both rollers. That tells me the second roller would have to be on there pretty solid if the cutter head is lifting off the initial cut and since the snipe is both ends it's not just one roller. But there is give somewhere, either the planer bed is getting pressed down somehow after both rollers engage, (which is what this video tries to address by adding a more solid foundation) or the top assembly including rollers and planer head are getting lifted. It can't be just the rollers :/ Maybe it just holds the wood too tightly.

[@mckenziekeith7434]

To eliminate snipe completely, you have to make sure that the cutting head does not move when the rollers come into contact with the work piece. See if it is possible to disconnect rollers from cutting head.

[@edmund22]

Snipe is not caused by the bed, but the rollers.

[@theyorkshirelad.]

did this reduce or full remove snipe

[@Funkilover82]

Nach meiner Erfahrung ist es fast nicht möglich "Planersnipe" komplett zu eliminieren. Indem dem Werkstück ein Opferstück /z.B. ein Stück Dachlatte) vorausgeschoben wird, lässt sich der Effekt aber vom Werk- auf das Opferstück übertragen

[@user-xf5py1lh5i]

Приветствую. Из чего сделана столешница? Толщина?

[@jeffro1245]

Any luck with eliminating the snipe issue on your bench top planer

[@davidgeyer8390]

According to my instructions on my Dewalt734 the feeds should not not be level straight thur

[@gsallis85]

How did this work out, did you notice a difference in the amount of snipe?

[@mrpatching9586]

Any chamce of the thickness dimesions of the box peices please?

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

The box itself is made of 21mm birch plywood and the top is made of 25mm melamine coated particle board.

[@anthonyarmstrong3255]

Really good. This I am going to make for my Makita machine.

[@ISIMPLYBUILTIT]

Thanks

[@briain_odonnghaile]

Good job, but you've reduced your maximum height of planing by 25mm.

[@adrianmack3]

How often are you planing over 125mm?

[@MattiaRaggiDrum]

And the final test? You dont show it?

[@mitchtube3]

No blade guard on the table saw?! I'm wincing hard 😬

[@adrianmack3]

Then ensure your blade guard is in place and don't worry what another man does in his own shop, you aren't his mom.

[@CHUCKYCHUCKYBOBUCY]

That is a hell of a lot of work to still have snipe :/ I don't understand why somebody can't make a planner that doesn't have snipe.

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

I bought mine for €400, 2 years ago here in Ireland... and the seller is now selling them for €650 !! We always get ripped off over here... 🤕

[@gordanzzzz]

Make the ends of the table hier

[@citetez]

...gh...

[@gordanzzzz]

@@citetez make the end toler. Sorry my English is not great

[@citetez]

@@gordanzzzz Your English is quite serviceable. "Hier" is better spelled "higher".

[@gordanzzzz]

@@citetez Thanks I can speak Englisho but writing is another story 🙃

[@regibson23]

$250 for a Triton? From where?

[@markus1564]

Duetche. Marques ... ha

[@donaldhokanson3321]

Watched whole video to hear him say it didn't eliminate the snipe. Ugh

[@mick1gallagher]

Buy a proper planer thicknesses and none of these problems when you pay for trash that's what you get

[@-_AjB_-]

Btw it's strips, not stripes.

[@-_AjB_-]

@@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230 Actually it was meant constructively and helpfully, and was received in the spirit it was intended. No need for busy bodies to but in.

[@anthonyarmstrong3255]

German is my second language, and when I lived in Hamburg many years ago I actually encouraged native German speakers to correct me at every opportunity. In my opinion he speaks very good English. I don't think Mr Brown meant any offence.

[@citetez]

@@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230 We can only hope that no one mentions it the next time you're walking around with a booger stuck to the end of your nose. Outside the world of the terminally self-righteous, politely drawing attention to a mistake is generally considered helpful.

[@bodo-tf7gu]

:) :) :) :) super englisch

[@michealfigueroa6325]

Anyone here that does not know how to band mdf or make and attach a box to a board ? Lame video I use a long piece of MDF only to increase the table length and reduce snipe The real issue is that the feed rollers and cutter head pull the boards away from the table...stop this stop snipe

[@geoffb108]

Totally obsessive over kill without a satisfactory result

[@uciislamodarapa6827]

@I SIMPLY BUILT IT A lot of effort you have put in this project. Sadly you haven't shown the "before and after effect" so that viewer can see how much better is it now with your bed and how was it before.