6 Ways to Reduce Planer Snipe

[@ugoleftillgorite]

Great techniques! While the board lifting into the cutter head can and does certainly cause snipe, I believe the primary cause is that the cutter head/pressure roller assembly moves as a unit. When the first roller is contacted, the assembly tilts slightly, leaving the cutter head and second roller hanging lower. As soon it contacts that second roller, the whole assembly levels out. This is why using a sacrificial first board works.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Matthew S that makes a ton of sense!

[@migi4993]

Good points. Also, this planer is a Ridgid TP1300. It has an adjustable snipe lock that when adjusted properly, snipe is virtually eliminated....no need for these other ideas. This same machine design with adjustable snipe lock carried over to when Steel City took over the design as a 40200H and now Cutech Tool as a 40200H-CT. However, the Steel City and Cutech versions both use a spiral style cutterhead.

[@snicely9781]

yes

[@123joshmallett]

Ahhh. I was wondering why this would work. Because there is still a pivot point. Thank you.

[@darylboggs2917]

I agree. The whole cutter head assembly, consisting of two pinch rollers and the cutting wheel between them, is constructed to tilt slightly when needed (although I can't explain why, wish I could). The pinch rollers are spring loaded and will move up slightly when they engage the workpiece, then drop back down after the workpiece passes by. At the beginning of the cut only the rear roller is engaged, the front roller is still at its original (lower) height, the rear roller is higher (say 0.010 in. for the sake of argument), the whole assembly is tilted down towards the front, so that the cutting wheel is tilted 0.005 in. lower than the rear (driving) wheel. As soon as the front roller is engaged the assembly levels out and the cutting wheel assumes the intended elevation relative to the drive rollers for the remainder of the cut--until the workpiece leaves the rear roller behind. Then, the rear roller will drop 0.010 in. and the cutting wheel will drop half that much, leaving 0.005 in. of snipe until the end. At least I think this is the way it must work. I have never seen or read this description, though.

[@Todd22560]

The angle method works best for me. So much so that over the years it's become muscle memory using a 20 year old Delta 12 inch planer. Thanks too much for the video. Todd

[@fdort3971]

Sounds like you have the same as mine...do you find a difference from either side or middle? Does your cutter head back off if you don't hold the handle? I clean and wax the deck frequently, I clean the rollers too andit definitely seems to help. I also adjusted the height of the feed tables. I verified the blades are sharp and accurate. I don't know why but even "sneaking up" bit by bit the damn thing shreds the surface from end to end...it still looks better than before it goes in. I deal with reclaimed wood mostly. I don't force the wood either. The only "training I've had on my delta or any planer is KZbin university... I have to figure out what I'm doing wrong before I do further damage. The other thing is it's making a weird random crackling or snapping noise after a bit of use. It reminds me of the same noise my kitchenaid mixer made when the bushings wore down. Do you know how to check? I don't want to tear it apart if I have to. I'd really appreciate your advice please

[@professorbill1]

Just bought a planer and found this very helpful. As a photographer I was impressed with how much work you put into making this video! It is excellent! Thanks for doing that for us!!

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Thanks, Bill! Enjoy the new planer.

[@eddaeges9309]

Excellent. I just bought a planer. This will help me get on the right track in the beginning

[@RollinShultz]

Like yours, my Rigid 13' planer is the older version with the side crank and the lever for repeat cuts. From the videos I have watched here lately, I believe this version is better then the newer one. I am patient so I take light passes 1/64" - 1/32" and if there is any snipe it is minimal and easy to sand away. However, I will begin using the back to back feed and side by side feed to see if I can eliminate it entirely.Thanks.

[@andrewbrown8148]

Good tips, Brad. I was the last tip would be to insert another board thru the planer spanning the infeed and outfeed beds that the pieces being planed would ride on. That's the method I finally adopted after trying numerous adjustments on my lunchbox planer. A piece of melamine solved my snipe woes.

[@Thom4123]

Great demonstration. I use two of the methods you showed the one with boards in front and back and the angle method. I have very good luck with theses methods. Keep up the great work

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Thanks!

[@danahoecker3308]

Thom spillane

[@tawm04]

Thanks. Little bit of lift on the wings and diagonal feed helped me out a lot.

[@John-d7p]

My very old benchtop Delta 12" has no adjustments for the tables, so I use the sacrificial infeed and outfeed pieces. Works great. I think the Delta was one of the first small planers out on the market. All others seem to be later models with a lot more goodies. I bought mine back in 2003.

[@ecko1882]

O.M.G Guy doesn't even look like the same human... Never delete this video Brad...you've come so far.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

🤪

[@mcgrath3]

Great Video Brad. Also good to mention that there will be more snipe if cutting against the grain as the blades tend to 'dig' more before getting to the second roller which then holds the end of the board back down. Cutting with the grain reduces tear out as well. This is more of a problem with flat sawn or through sawn boards. It is much less of a problem with quarter sawn and even less so with rift sawn baords.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Thomas McGrath III good tips!

[@jacquespapillon1154]

Thanks Brad, I've already tried some of yours tips but I'as not sure of what happening but now I know, great thanks

[@LSCModels]

0:19 looks like you drew a tombstone. RIP Rigid lol. Great video brother, Thanks for this.

[@jimsulsona4128]

Just so you know, your #2 suggestion (angled infeed & outfeed tables) is not really a valid option for anything other than very short boards, since it can actually produce snipe towards the middle of your workpiece, because if the piece is higher on both the front and back ends than in the center (where the cutterhead is), then the cutter is going to dig out a portion in the middle of your board! There is a terrific video posted on KZbin recently on this topic by The Snekker Show which details this exact issue, entitled "Everything you need to know about thickness-planer snipe". I found it a very informative video. I am still researching additional snipe-reduction ideas, so thanks for posting this video. There does not seem to be a "perfect solution" to this problem for everyone, but many folks seem to have found what works for them and their own processes.

[@mattfoley2315]

Working on planner that ran 1 million b ft a shift. Your spot on. It’s all in the in feed and out feed line up This was a 4 Headed planner .

[@Siskiyous6]

Good video, I am not sure why cutting the ends seems more expensive than feeding other wood through on the sides and front and back, but all in all you gave a lot of good methods and showed it well, and did it in a few minutes. Ok, I will check out your channel.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Cutting the ends is more expensive when doing a large group of boards like 15 or 20. That adds up fast. For just a few boards you're right, it's about the same.

[@aj.8665]

Brad thanks for great demo, just ordered my Dewalt 735X and I'll be definitely using a couple of the methods you showed!

[@craftedworkshop]

Awesome work! Great, thorough video. Will definitely be applying a few of these tips.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Crafted Magazine thanks, Johnny. Hope they help

[@jtotheb-ip2hh]

4:20 i'm surprised the sacrificial side boards did not work better. i have used this method on several cutting boards lately and it works great. i have a dewalt 734, i do not use the lockdown lever. however, the one difference is that since i'm making cutting boards that are several pieces laminated together, my sacrificial boards are actually in various places in the middle. so perhaps it's really a combination of #1 and #4, but it works well for cutting boards. thanks for the great videos and tips! keep on rockin' and rollin'!

[@2puggles]

Great video Brad! I did not know the angle one. I will give it a try. Let Ridgid know you have had a big influence on my tool purchases. I bought that planer a couple of weeks ago and got a new Ridgid trim router yesterday. Keep up the great work👍

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

I'll be sure to let them know :)

[@stevenreilly55]

Would doubling the rollers, both entering and exiting, reduce this altogether? Maybe a spring loaded roller at the table side just before and after the internal rollers?

[@fabricioqui]

Great vid for beginners like myself! And I was mad, thinking my brand new planner was deficient!!! Will try your suggestions for sure! Specially burning money in the air ;)

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Fabricio R N Hahaha, the money in the air is the key

[@nicktucker4916]

I found extending the in feed and out feed tables helps. Same you would do on a table saw to keep long pieces level throughout the entire cut.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Yes, that is a great tip as well

[@zxzs328]

This vid helped - and no “music! Thanks much.

[@kenroosenberg3878]

Do you have a video on adjusting the carriage lock on my ridgid tp1300? Mine is so tight that it hurts my thumbs when applying pressure.

[@shaynesabala]

Having the input and output completely level with the planer helps a lot from my experience. But I do think that the sacrificial wood at each end is not only the easiest but the most effective.

[@robertshorthill4153]

I have a 733 Dewalt. I slid a 12.5 by 35 inch piece of melamine into planer deck. I top coated the surface to make it slicker and it seems to eliminate 90 percent of snipe. I use calipers to measure thickness anyway so I usually don't pay attention to depth gauge. The in and out beds are not adjustable with this Dewalt, unfortunately. A 734 or 735 might be better, but this is the one I'm stuck with. Does a good job overall

[@robertryan2222]

Would constructing an in-feed and out-feed table each level or rather at the same elevation as the table below the cutter?

[@josephromero1596]

With method 2 (sacrificial boards front & back) do u have to use exact same width or can those be skinnier?

[@AlWheelin]

I also have the Ridgid Planer, it is great, easy to change the blades and maintain.

[@hyperionhelios190]

thanks for not BSing by saying "ELIMINATING Snipe". I appreciate honestly and no use of clickbait.

[@richardhawkins2647]

I don't know whether I missed it but at 0:07 you said you'd show us six ways to avoid snipe and tell us which you think is the best. You didn't sum up and say which you thought was the best. Great video though.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Richard Hawkins you're right! I lost track of it when shooting the outro. I actually like a combo of canting the board to an angle and lifting on the back.

[@richardhawkins2647]

I meant to say the reason I used that method was because it was the only one I knew!!

[@icespeckledhens]

Interesting video. To be honest, unless the timber is expensive I just cut off the ends. How many times do you have a board exactly the right length for the project, invariably you have to cut too length resulting in offcuts. We all need firewood anyway!!! Thanks

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Yeah, for sure. Cutting the ends of is by far the easiest way to get rid of it :)

[@adrielhernandez4073]

The first one worked for me! Other video tole me to level it bit it did not help as much as making it slightly higher! Just liked and subscribed!

[@carverparkes2276]

Hi thanks for the video. I am very new to wood working but very soon on I found that putting a board (similar size) ahead of your piece does the trick nicely. Not seen oany snipe on the backend. I am using a metabo HC260C thickesser planer

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

cool!

Maybe manufacturers should design their planer with 2 pressure rollers at each sides (infeed and outfeed). It would probably help a lot to reduce (eliminate?) snipes.

[@alphonse53]

The host has misled the audience. Snipe isn't caused by the work coming into the planer tilted up in the front. All planers have snipe, to some degree or another. Stationary table planers are the worst because the rollers have to lift the weight of the planer plus exert force onto the board. Additional rollers will not have any effect.

[@jimhester2004]

Very informative! I just bought my first planer, therefore just now looking into this problem. I have 2 questions: 1. You didn't mention whether using the bolts to adjust both the infeed and outfeed tables would put the board in a bind once it is in contact with both tables. I'm wondering if the planing would be of uneven depths, or if the knives would "bow" the board down to make the right thickness. 2. When using a sacrificial board ahead and behind the board to be planed, what is the minimum length of the sacrificial one for it to be safe for it to be going through the machine? Thanks.

[@jrgal27]

at least the same length as it is between rollers

[@scottroy6195]

I think there would be a tiny bow but probably elevating by a 16th of an inch or something. At least that's what I'm going to try when I get mine.

[@danielhurtado7517]

Thanks very much Brad, I have a big snipe problem with my new Metabo DH330

[@robertbabb9586]

Thanks, I have seen some of your methods but not all that you shared. Also nice explanation and camera work as well !

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Robert Babb thanks!

[@ralphzamoyski2807]

would reduction of the tension of the rollers work? Of course if it is possible.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Ralph Zamoyski possibly. There is likely a fine line between too much and too little

[@DIYTyler]

Great explanation!

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Tyler G thanks, Tyler!

[@AndrewBader]

I've got the same planer and I ran about 10, 2.5ft long boards today using the angle method and got zero snipe! Thanks!

[@frehleycomet]

What are your thoughts on extending the infeed and outfeed table, does that work well or is that gonna give the same effect on snipe. I just built a cutting board and now I have 2 inches of snipe on either end. Not very happy with that. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your video.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+frehleycomet if you make a flat bed that runs the length of the infeed and outfeed it should help. There are a few videos on that out there. As far as the cutting board goes I'd try lighter passes, pass it at and angle and if you have any scraps from the build you could try to feed those in first and the board next to it after the scrap has engaged the cutter head.

[@frehleycomet]

Fix This Build That unfortunately the cutting board is about 1/4 inch less than the width of the planer. sideways will not work bud. will build the table though and go from there. thanks for your advice

[@andries4561]

frehleycomet There's this other issue that the rollers and the cutter move as one unit, when the board comes in the whole assembly tilts a bit but it levels out as soon as the board hits the second roller, so extending the tables won't have a big impact

[@StevenLarkin]

Just purchase my first Planer. thanks for the tips. Question... What if you lift a bit more when feeding and extracting the board? I have seen other videos where this is demonstrated. But they did not show the actual results :( Sniped?

[@wonheeryu87]

Great video! I have DEWALT DW734 and getting a snipe at both ends is normal? I thought it was an issue with the machine....lol

[@Hedgehodge-]

Glad to know the 250buck more (double price planer) has the same issue. Sorry it still does it though :(

[@woodensurfer]

If the sacrifice board can be re-used it is not really sacrificed. You can use only one and grab it at once as it exits and re-use in the same operation at the end.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+woodensurfer agreed!

[@woodensurfer]

The sac board has to be of very similar thickness of the work. Generally this is not a problem because we generally joint stock of certain usual thicknesses, say 4/4, 3/8 inch etc. The only time I need 0.673 inch, say, is for use a shim/spacer for jigs.

[@bryangatewood6749]

Great job explaining this. I just purchased one

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Bryan Gatewood glad it helped, Bryan!

[@Marrio49]

I always feed narrow material at an angle either from the left side or the right side so that as it goes through the planer you get even wear on your cutter knives and eliminate Snipe almost entirely. For wide boards I use a sacrificial piece at the leading end and then the trailing end

[@garyzellner9938]

I have heard one can put a 4 ft level across the two feed tables and lower the cutting head so that it applies a minimal load on the tables. When the pressure is removed it leaves the two tables about 1/16 higher than the stationary table, which in effect is the theory you use in lifting the board in and out of the planner. Have you ever done / tried this method?

[@chawciasiab]

Hey Brad great tips there but I cannot figure out why sometimes I’m getting gouges on my boards after it went through he planer. I have flip the blades and use the new side so I know it is not dull. I thought that the rollers probably have wood chips trapped there so I put some paste wax there but nothing I did fix the problem. Sometimes I get little gouges other times I get one or two big ones. Not sure what’s wrong.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Check your dust collection. I do think it's the chips. They get blown back and then get smushed under the feed roller and dent the wood. Lighter passes tend not to do it for whatever reason with me.

[@georgescarlett2320]

Love seeing your Harbor Freight Drill Press, Har! Gb

[@sawdust58]

Thanks for your ways. Will be shure to try on my machine.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Hope they help!

[@g.m.forsythe9626]

Well done! I have seen a cheapskate variation of the sacrificial board leading and trailing the workpiece: use the same board for both ends of the operation.

[@QqJcrsStbt]

How can that work at the tail?

[@g.m.forsythe9626]

@@QqJcrsStbt Put two piece of scrap into the mix and locate them at the beginning and end of each run.

[@jasonstradling7870]

I use method #6 routinely. the trick is to lift as high as needed based upon how flexible the wood is and how long it is. for example, if Im planing a 12 foot long piece of poplar, I hold the trailing end up about 2 or 3 feet higher than the planer bed.

[@jamesjohnson3052]

Thanks. Definitely some great advice

[@Malvisk]

I have an old style planar so it might be an issue with the design, but I could swear the board is going in flat and not lifting into the cutter head. It's the whole roller, cutter, roller assembly that is pitching to cause the cutter head to dip into the board

[@mvillasanti1848]

Excellent video! I met several methods. Is there no definitive solution to avoid the problem?. Greetings from Argentina!

[@ruizd14]

Thanks for the planer snipe ideas. I have to same exact model planer bought back around 2007 from Home Depot. Where do you get your replacement knives from? The last set I bought off e-bay but I was not impressed with how not sharp they were and the fact that they did not seem to last. Thanks

[@barryroberts6470]

Great Tips there, Thanks. Take Care, Barry (from England)

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Barry Roberts thanks for the feedback, Barry!

[@stryker2764]

Great video demonstration! I just bought a Rigid like yours and I was wondering what is the minimum board length I can plane on it? Thanks again..

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

I don't recall what it is, but I'm sure the manual says. Maybe 8 to 12"

[@rikityrik]

In the tests you ran did you have the in and out feeds raised slightly higher like you stated at the beginning of the video or were they level with the bed? Great video, I learned something! 👍

[@richardeveringham1130]

Awesome video Brad!

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Thanks, Richard!

[@addicted2diy]

Definitely learned a lot! Gonna make a few adjustments to my planer.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Katie Cleveland (Addicted 2 DIY) hope it helps!

[@RyanLovettInSpace]

At about 4:06 your pencil is nearly perpendicular to the board so it is referencing the same depth of cut. It won't reveal snipe if there is any. Maybe you could repeat your tests but measure results with a depth gauge. In any case, thanks for demonstrating the techniques.

[@IlluminatedBlackSheep]

Very informative! Thanks!

[@RossMarsden]

One more way to (probably) reduce Planer Snipe: My planer has a stainless steel lined liner beneath the roller/cutter head. Under the SS liner there is a machined flat surface. I took the liner out and found a layer of compressed planer shavings under there!!!! Oh, well, that explains a lot!!! I suppose, make sure the liner is sitting on a clean machined flat surface.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Ross Marsden Oh, sneaky. Wouldn't have thought of that!

[@supercheekykiwi]

best explanation I've seen. keep up the good work

[@joonyaboy]

This really helped me

[@scottharris3684]

Great video Brad

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

thank you!

[@andresfelipemoscosohernand2371]

Great tutorial! Thank you. Where did you get the pencil? I've looked around but nothing similar to the pencil you used comes up.

[@MrJKellerLewis]

That's a regular pencil with one side removed to expose the graphite

[@thomascoughlin8026]

I have the same machine as you, but I can't find replacement blades. Do you have a source? Thanks Tom

[@LutherBuilds]

Great video. Thanks, Brad for doing these tests. I'm quite surprised too at the snipe not being eliminated in using the sacrificial boards on each side. But, thinking about it, it seems that would be the most wasteful method. I've used the angle method as well as the board in front of and behind and have had better luck with the latter. I have a 12" Delta so it might be slightly improved when you step it up to a more expensive lunch box planer. I haven't had much luck with lifting the board up. Also, are the rollers adjustable on your planer or is that just a feature on the floor standing planers?

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

I don't believe the rollers are adjustable on this one, but I've never tried it out.

[@seibert1234]

Did you look into adding a 'bed extension'? I've recently built a 6' long melamine topped board that sits in the mouth of the planer, which effectively extends the bed of the planer to reduce snipe. I'm curious how it would compare to your other methods.

[@QqJcrsStbt]

0:30 I could have gotten myself confused, that looks like a down cutting blade in the diagram. Have we got our in and out reversed? When I was much younger I accidentally fed a length of 1/2x1/2 onto a router table in the wrong direction. 😮 It exited the closed window at 60mph. 😫

[@johnh9748]

With sacrificial sides, they need to be wider than the ones you used. they need to be capable of feeding through without flexing too much. What happened in your case was the side boards flexed hitting the exit roller and essentially allowed snipe on the work piece. A wider side board would reduce the snipe more. If you are planing thicker pieces, you can use narrow sides, but with thinner thicknesses, you need to compensate with wider sides.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+John Hunkler thanks for the input 👍

[@CameronStewartDC]

What planer would you recommend?

[@lukemartin9037]

Super informative! Thanks Brad. Love watching your youtube and instagram content.

[@lukemartin9037]

I forgot to ask, is that planer the Ridgid R4330?

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Luke Martin thanks, Luke!

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Luke Martin it's the TP13002. Older model

[@eldonbeyea393]

how about using a sled, would that help?

[@jeffreyfroehle6414]

Big help. Thanks.

[@wadealbert138]

what model Ridgid planner do you use

[@censeless24]

how bout making an extended infeed and out feed plank or raising the plainer blade a smidge

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Donald Ewing building an extension sled would work too

[@censeless24]

try it out

[@jonlanier_]

Donald, I really like that idea.... but I'm limited on space.

[@censeless24]

you could make it removable

[@jonlanier_]

Donald Ewing And then put it where? See, that is my dilimma. Plus, we rent a house.

[@stephengibbs9310]

Snipe drives me mad! Definitely some good methods here and I will continue to combat it!

[@chadsweigart100]

What model Rigid planer is that beside you in your video?

[@andries4561]

How about combining lifting the board and running it through at an angle?

[@Retroweld]

Great stuff! Enjoyed it.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Thanks, Douglas!

[@Hupernike45]

I have this same planer. Does anyone have a source for the dust collection attachment to it, or a video or plans to build one?

[@GuysShop]

Useful tips everyone should know. Thanks for sharing Brad!

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+GuysWoodshop thanks, Guy!

[@kurtwm2010]

lifting the input bed a bit is the same as lifting the board on feed-in

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Kurt M yes, it achieves the same thing in two different ways.

[@yazr1712]

When it comes to method 3 - using a sacrificial piece at the front and back... do those pieces have to be the exact same thickness? Or can you use a scrap piece that is thicker or thinner? Curious just in terms of saving wood. Great video btw! Thanks so much!

[@ryananthony4840]

You wouldn't want it much thicker, remember u can only cut 1/8" at the most.....

[@mikepeine3898]

RIDGID has a online parts catalog & the motor brushes & Caps for your TP1300 are N/A !

[@migi4993]

Check Cutechtool.com The older Ridgid TP1300 is now Cutech's 40200 with spiral style cutter head. Parts are interchangeable.

[@mikepeine3898]

MOTOR BRUSHES & CAPS FOR YOUR TP1300 ARE N/A ! Once they wear out you must buy another planer . A NEW CUTTER HEAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT BRUSHES & CAPS . SEARCH BEFORE YOU BUY !

[@garyzellner9938]

I have a problem with my Rigid planner in that the lock lever on the height adjustment wheel does not lock the wheel from turning. How can I fix this problem?

[@ro_yo_mi]

On method #3, if you're fast enough you can reuse the first board as last board too.

[@johnshambarger4113]

Use wD-40 on wings pivot points

[@wilhelmtaylor9863]

If you use a sacrificial board in front and behind the board to be planned, how does that prevent the board from lifting at the front or the back? There would have to be other reasons for the snipe. Seems like the two sacrificial boards prevent the non-contacting roller from dropping thus preventing the cutter head from also dropping. There is probably slop in the cutter assembly.

[@K31swiss]

The last method works pretty good after you get a feel for it.

[@suryodayanthyagarajan9207]

Thanks for sharing, pal.. appreciate it.. Ran the video thrice w/o sjipping adverts... that's my bit

[@ctenos45069]

Nice job on the video. Although just cutting off the snipe sounds wasteful, it really isn’t more so than using sacrificial boards. Using the method of feeding at an angle substantially reduces the length of the snipe and certainly is more reproducible. It also makes sense to plane longer boards before cutting to shorter pieces when there is no twist.

[@RICKYDENNIS49]

Surely the third method using extra timber before and after the main piece is the same as the first ? They both involve wastage of timber ?

[@aartmark]

I'm wondering if a planer sled would help eliminate snipe?

[@cmassey1999]

Jay bates built auxiliary in-feed and out-feed bed as one, that way both the in-feed, cutter head, and out-feed are co-planar. Keep in mind, this will reduce you capacity. I have yet to do it for my planer. Time and money, always running low on one of the other...for me its mostly both...:-)

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

+Charles Massey (Woodchucks1) Yeah, I meant to mention the sled option but forgot and didn't want to squeeze it in during editing. Great option though.

[@cmassey1999]

+Fix This Build That Thanks for all the other suggestions, I've used several in the past. Excellent video, keep up the great work.