Refitting Our Sailboat for Ocean Sailing - MAJOR REPAIR

[@Mike-uc1eu]

Retired mechanic here, Re: Valve adjustment, On an engine of your configuration, Inline 4, 1342 firing order, siamesed intake, you can use the rule of 9. Number your rockers 1-8 from front to back. If 1 is fully depressing the valve, adjust 8, if 2 is fully depressing the valve, adjust 7, 3, adjust 6, 4 adjust 5, 5 adjust 4, 6 adjust 3, 7 adjust 2, 8 adjust 1. The sum of the rockers always equals 9. This will ensure the valves are adjusted when the tappet is on the heel of the cam (the loosest position). Err on the loose side, especially on the intakes of a diesel. A little loose = a little noise, tight = hard starting and burned valves.$$$. Upon completion of adjustment, run back through them a second time, to be sure. Hope this helps, Mike.

[@thegreatescape2022]

Really appreciate that Mike! Now when you say front to back, front is the side with all of the pulleys and such, back would be the side with the transmission? That's where the manual fell short...

[@Mike-uc1eu]

@@thegreatescape2022 Actually, for this service, it does not matter. the valvetrain layout is a mirror image. Works either way.

[@timboflyer]

You are doing really great work. I’m looking forward to the next videos

[@mikeholt4660]

I have enjoyed your videos, especially since I also sail a 37ft Tartan on the Chesapeake out of Rock Hall.

[@thegreatescape2022]

They're beautiful boats and great to sail! We were planning to stop in to Rock Hall a couple of months ago but the weather didn't look good for where we wanted to anchor. I have a feeling we'll stop in there at some point. If you see us out on the bay, give us a shout!

[@petethecatable]

I am now wondering if you do not have an air lock in the top of the engine so the pump cannot circulate coolant. I would be interested in how your water heater is plumbed to the engine. There was more than one way to do it.

[@thegreatescape2022]

That's kind of what I'm thinking too, especially since the freshwater outlet from the water heater wouldn't get hot... I cracked the inlet freshwater seal on the heater to remove the air which then made that hose get warm, but for some reason I couldn't get the outlet hose to get warm (I backflushed though the heater so I know it's clear). I also made sure that the mixing valve was closed so that coolant had to go through the heater and it couldn't bypass it. I should also note that in past, I've opened the bypass valve to bypass the heater and we would still overheat. I've had the freshwater pump off a few times and all seems good there. Belts are tensioned too. I'm thinking once I figure out the air bubble it'll run cooler

[@petethecatable]

OK it seems like you have ruled out the heater circuit being the airlock. I recall the water heater gets its coolant from the top of the engine near the thermostat. Is there an air lock there? I recall having this problem on my W50, but I do not recall how I resolved it. How long does it take for the engine to overheat and under what load? The temp sensor is in a place where it would register hotter than the engine actually is. If you run the engine and it heats up fast, when not under load it could be that it is just working air out of the system (it is always going to be there when you take it apart) and it would collect there and cause the temp sensor to read high until the air gets pushed to the expansion tank. Just a theory. You say you have good flow at the exhaust--it would be good to see what it looks like. redurkee at gee male.

[@fredguerra4917]

Love your videos. Frankly, I want to do the very same you are doing. Currently, I do not have a boat, but I am thinking of the Tartan 37. My budget is 35k. I am handy and can do most of the work my self. I was wondering if you can share a link for the Tartan manual? Please advise,

[@thegreatescape2022]

You should be able to find a good boat with that budget, especially since we found ours for much less. Tartan still has some good references for this boat, including the manual. Here's a link tartanyachts.com/tartan-classic-t37/

[@fredguerra4917]

@@thegreatescape2022 Thank you so very much! Love your story.

[@paulquick-cm2rc]

Don't worry about the dodger being wrong. Could have been worse, like it failing you aret sea. Chin up!!

[@petethecatable]

I am interested in your problem of overheating. Have you replaced the thermostat--is it the right one? (it should be a 180 with a small hole in the lip--not just any 180 will work. Have you checked the hoses?--they fail from the inside and can produce a flap that impedes water. Do you still have the oil cooler on this W50? --they clog and are damn near impossible to get flowing--you might be better without it. Can you reach full RPM in flat seas at hull speed?? I have owned my Tartan 37 #373 for 32 years, sailed it from San Francisco to Maine and probably 50K miles of cruising on top of that and never had a problem with the chain plates. I am not sure why folks are having problems--I am guessing the boats were not sealed properly at the deck. Also, the rig does not need to be bar tight--just needs to stand up straight when going to windward in 15 knots. Ray Durkee

[@thegreatescape2022]

Hey Ray, any help you can give would be great! I was just at the boat today going though the whole freshwater circuit and I'm not sure anything I did made a difference. The thermostat is a 180 with the little hole (it has a little brass plug type of thing in it that can open and close, does that sound right?). I just replaced this today just in case, even though I tested the old T Stat a few days ago at home on the stove. I put a new oil cooler on a few days ago, didn't make a difference and didn't notice any clogging or anything else in the old cooler. I've read that these can fail so the new one is at least a little peace of mind! I found 2 impeller blades in the raw water pump the other day. Now the water flows really well but still overheats... I back flushed the whole freshwater side today. Pushed out some crap but nothing major. Still didn't seem to make a difference. I've also checked all elbows for blockages, everything I've gotten into has been surprisingly pretty clean and clear. Since emptying the system and backflushing today, I think I have a bubble in the water heater... I had to leave before I could get that sorted out. Do you know of any good tricks to treat that?

[@petethecatable]

@@thegreatescape2022 So I assume the raw water pump has all its blades and you have to checked that out, right? So the blades are from a previous impeller? Where exactly did you find them--they could not have been inside the pump housing I generally find them in the discharge orfice of the pump or in the first raw chamber of the heat exchanger--have you checked those places (I know you have a new Hx, but the blades could have lodged in there when you first put it back together.--they get lodged in the hoses and show up periodically if you do not check your impeller or if you run it dry with the intake closed. The cast off blades tend to jam into any turn in the cooling hoses and at the nipples. If you lose them, you need to find every single one. The hoses can lose an internal flap and create a blockage if they are old--they age from the inside out. It would be interesting to see a video of the output of your exhaust. The only way to get a bubble out of your water heater circuit is to disconnect the to and from hoses at the engine and blow them out. Next time you change the coolant--disconnect both hoses and fill them with a funnel and quickly connect them to the engine. And it overheats even when not under load, is that right? I was flabbergasted when you took the injectors apart. As you probably know now, that is not a job for a DIYer no matter how many KZbin videos you might see, They rarely fail and should be left alone.. Same goes for the injector pump: do not EVER think about taking it apart--there is nothing a mortal can repair in there without special calibration tools and the O rings are not something you can buy off the shelf---professional mechanics send these whole units in to a diesel shop with special tools to service them . Do you have Nigel Calder's Boat Maintenance book--you need it. You have my email. I will help you with this. I am very familiar with the W-50. The cooling system is its weakness, but it can be managed. I am going to say at this point that you have an impeller blade in the system you have not yet found. You might also try taking the water heater out of the loop as the air bubble might be stopping coolant flow.

[@thegreatescape2022]

@@petethecatable I found one of the impeller blades in the raw water intake elbow all folded up, the other was in the outlet elbow all folded up. Removing those made a huge difference in the water flow, but it still overheats. It's overheating even at idle right now so I'm pretty sure I have an air bubble in the heater. I just had the HX off today and both end caps off, cleaned the tubes and didn't find any other impeller blades (I'm always on the lookout for those now!). The hoses are pretty old, it definitely could be that... I actually think I wouldn't have had an issue with cleaning the old injectors if I had used the right fluid to clean them with... Oh well, learned the hard way. The new injectors had to be set to the right psi before installing (did all of that off camera). These mechanical injectors are pretty easy to work with in my experience, I wouldn't dare touch the high pressure pump though!

[@petethecatable]

@@thegreatescape2022 OK there is one more possible issue. If you have the HX with the two caps, those caps are VERY fussy about alignment, The ridge on the inside of the cap is a bitch to get set right and tight and if you don't the raw water never gets a chance to cool the coolant. I had this problem sevaral times when I was first working with the W50. The groove has to fit perfectly or the HX does not work.

[@thegreatescape2022]

@@petethecatable I was super careful with setting those back on today. When I first took them off today I was hoping to find that the manufacturer put them on wrong, but nope!

[@jessefalsone1247]

You should contact me about your port forward chainplate work. What you did won't solve your problem. My (former) boat is only one of three now that did this work that I'm aware of even though this issue seems to be getting worse for many.

[@thegreatescape2022]

Hey Jesse, I couldn't find your email on your channel but ours is [e-mail] . So far, we haven't noticed any movement or flexing in that area anymore and we've been out in a few strong breezes since we made this video Congrats on selling your boat! I saw your post on the T37 forum and you clearly had put a lot into her. Did you end up with another yet? -Saylor