The Near-Disaster that Could've Cost Us Everything

[@Sv_SeaDuctress]

Another reccomendation- show the jobs, you’re pretty amazing at the jobs you take on but we don’t see it all, my favorite channels show the DIY, Sailing, and life’s adventures, don’t cut yourself short on the DIY projects, viewers love them (we learn too)

[@colinboniface194]

you did a fine job on the toe rail and companionway surrounds, I'd be inclined to go with what clearly works for you... Personally, I like shiny... And gadgets... I know, I'm strange...

[@svhulda6157]

It's a quite normal reaction on austenitic steels. Don't use sealents using acid to cure. Like those smelling from vinegar. Check the rest of your chain plates.

[@jessefalsone1247]

Crevice corrosion from water sitting in that corner without oxygen. Corroded from the inside out. Best to pull all chainplates and inspect. You might need to have a dye penetrant test at a machine shop because you can't see crevice corrosion from the outside. The aluminum box girder is not factory unless your boat is newer than mine and they added them into the construction. Nice job on the bimini. Making one from scratch is pretty difficult when you have to make a new pattern.

[@thegreatescape2022]

Thanks! I thought the backing plate seemed a little beefy and was surprised to find it back there, not sure if they changed to this style at some point during production. We're in the process of replacing all of our chainplates this off season, for safety and peace of mind!

[@AlRosa-b5t]

if you ask me....... who has built very many hand laminated boats and yachts.........that chain plate is well designed........... to bad it isn`t carbon fiber or sealed / in-cased in fiberglass , where the elements cannot get to the chain plates for no corrosion.

[@jamielyons7054]

I just found y'all this morning and I am now subscribed, I'm loving this video. You did an amazing job on that bimini, also the chain plate ❤ ~ love from Michigan ~ Jamie

[@beagssss1]

Wow. The Bimini and teak look fantastic!!

[@anonymous.notatall6419]

Same boat, same chainplate problems, my bulkheads were also rotten because of it. 9 month old vid so you probably not see comment but anyhoos, tips I have, get multiple size and type vice grips for solo work. I also added larger and deeper hdpe plastic self made rectangular washers instead of those thin stainless ones on the deck at the chainplates as it seems all the problems come from leakage at this point. I rough the deck and underside of plastic an add sealant. This moves the flow of water away from the actual hole.

[@thegreatescape2022]

Vice grips are life savers! The plastic around the bases sounds like a good idea. I've thought about building a little mound with glass at the bases so water wouldn't be able to pool there. Hope you found your chain plate issues before they broke!

[@anonymous.notatall6419]

@@thegreatescape2022 Yeah, everytime I put in a deck feature or through hull I add a 1cm high hdpe mound. It makes distance from the holes/screws to the sealant edge and gives hieght out of deck water. Even better if you route a small trench just in from the border underneath to allow the sealant to form a grommet, a small taper underneath any drill hole too for the same reason. Learnt from the boatyard. I commiserate and applaud another Tartan 37 restorer, I have hull no#9, and I'll admit sometimes the Beatles song of the same name is in my head as I work.

[@petethecatable]

You asked for feedback on inside. I recommend that you do satin (I like Petit Flagship Products) or Epiphanes Rubbed Effect on the walls and trim. The Petit products lay down and leve initially, but I like the looks of Rubbed effect better after it dries. I think you find that gloss will glare and will highlight every imperfection and drive you nuts if you use it on the walls and trim below. For the sole, I think it is a matter of esthetics about whether you use satin or gloss. I have used both and have no particular preference--folks who suggest gloss is slippery--well, I have not found a problem with that, even when the boat is heeled 25 degrees. I note that you like putting on multiple coats without drying and sanding in between. I understand the convenience of this and boatyards really like it because they want to churn projects through. If you want furniture finish on the inside, however, I suggest you slow down and do multiple coats of gloss base, allow to dry, sand in between and be patient--there is no other way to take the grain out of teak--it is worth it because you only need to do the interior once (unlike the outside which you will revisit regularly). Most of the Petit and Epiphanes interior finishes suggest that you put on a couple coats of gloss and sand in between before putting the final layer of satin or Rubbed Effect. The reason is that you will remove the grain in the wood and get that very smooth finish. You might prefer something more rustic, but I like the Hinckley look on my boat. I strongly suggest you put at least 6 coats on the floor (you can probably get by with one or two base coats on the walls and trim) and sand in between them-you need to protect it as you will grind dirt and sand into it no matter how carefully you try to maintain it. I have spent a lot of hours in learning varnish technique. It takes patience to learn to do it well, but it is something you create and can feel good about for a long time.😢 If someone has use that goddam teak oil below (Tartan used it at the factory) I suggest you use a good paint stripper to try to get as much off as you can--it is a mold creator and, as much as I love my Tartan 37, I loathe the guy who thought teak oil was appropriate for any surface of a boat. There is a Zen to varnish and I urge you to embrace it. There are a lot of "hurry up" products out there to do things faster, but most seem to come up short in lasting quality. I learned from a retired Hinckley guy and they knew what they were doing. Good luck. I am sorry the T37 Website is apparently abandoned. It was a great resource at one time for many cruisers. Ray Durkee T37 #373 " Velera"

[@thegreatescape2022]

Thanks for all the tips Ray! I think our interior has been oiled several times and agree, I wish it hadn't ever been done! Much of the teak is very dark... Do you have any products you've used to lift the old oils out? Ours almost looks stained in places... Maybe it is? We peruse the T37 website pretty frequently, there's so much good information on there (even though much of it is fairly old, but still relevant!). It does seem much less busy now though. Did you make a post about your interior on there before? I saw a few photos of a beautiful interior and I'm thinking it was on Velera...

[@petethecatable]

I had the best luck with using a non toxic citrus paint stripper and green 3M pads (cut up in small squares and tossed when full of goo) but it is grueling work. You might want to do it in small sections. And test some first. . The louvers on the locker doors are a bitch. I hate to tell you that the dark is trapped mold and you likely will not be able to get rid of all of it. I spent a couple years working on mine and have accepted some darkness in my final coating. . I stripped it multiple times and then sanded it very carefully starting with 120 and going quickly through grits to 220--the veneers are thin but will stand up to some effort. In some places I had to do this twice and it is still somewhat dark in the grain. I then coated it with gloss twice for a base--and sanded that and two coats of Rubbed Effect. I have the original paneling along the ports and that came out better than some of the bulkheads. But it is a great improvement over the dam oil I doused it with for 25 years.. I also have an Ericson 32-200 that was thinly varnished from the factory-it was a dream to refinish and looks like the day it was new.-the Tartan is a much better boat, but I wish the factory had not chintzed on the interior by oiling it. Good luck. You are very talented and thoughtful. I have sailed a lot of boats in my life but the Tartan 37 is the sweetest of them all. @@thegreatescape2022

[@thegreatescape2022]

I'll have to try out Epiphanes, a few others have recommended that too and I know Sailing Magic Carpet loves it and they do fantastic work. I plan to do the interior piece by piece over time instead of all at once, mainly so it isn't too overwhelming and I can get better as I go. Some get nervous about boat work but I enjoy it and know Tartan 37's are worth the work to keep them going

[@petethecatable]

I would recommend Petit Flagship for the gloss base. It goes on easier than Epiphanes gloss. Epiphanes gloss needs thinning to flow well and lay down, particularly when it is warm out. But their Rubbed effect over a well prepared and lightly sanded gloss base is beautiful. @@thegreatescape2022

[@cnc75adventures49]

Tour the boat👍👍

[@lester2730]

Hi guys. In my opinion, the best finish would be to put high gloss, then scuff it and then put your coats of satin on. It's more durable if you want satin. Hope all is well. Happy New Year🎉.

[@thegreatescape2022]

Hadn't thought about that for the satin, good tip!! Happy New Year!

[@csranch2000]

I used TotalBoat Lust on the interior of my boat too. I love the gloss look but, not on Head or Kitchen floors. They get to slippery. However, the nice thing about LUST is you still layer up with about 4-6 coats of gloss then use the Matte finish on the last 2 coats. I like the fact you can get 6 coats in a day. I used the gloss on all other areas of the inside of the boat. Make sure you wear respirators inside. The VOC's or whatever will get ya iand you need good ventilation. Great job guys!!

[@beagssss1]

YES on the boat tour

[@matthewmiller551]

Bro that varnish poppin!!

[@briandbird6339]

I'm not a fan of deep gloss varnish for interior work, too many reflections, it's traditional but not for me. The exception is the cabin sole where (if it is plain teak or similar) matt looks very dull - you can extend this theory to vertical panels below knee height where a bit of gloss helps dispel the gloom. Good luck. I have just read the opposite comment lower down! Oh well.

[@thegreatescape2022]

Seems like everyone has a different opinion but that's what makes these kinds of projects fun, you can make it however you'd like! Appreciate the feedback!

[@ralphholiman7401]

At least you knew to look. I was inspecting our chainplates on one of our cruises and was shocked to find a pretty bad crack in our aft stay chainplate. I'm like you. It scared me finding it, but it was scarier to think of not finding it.

[@thegreatescape2022]

Glad you found it before it was too late! We're in the process of replacing all of ours and recoring the deck around each thru deck opening while we're at it

[@southernpaths2986]

As much as a shiny surface is good looking, it’s a LOT of work to get it right. A satin surface not only reduces glare from the sun, it also “hides” imperfections. In the end, it’s your boat, and your choice. Either way, I’m looking forward to seeing how it turns out. You two do quality work so I have no doubt whichever you choose, it’ll look fantastic.

[@HansQuistorff]

Check out what Mya did on Sailing Magic Carpet. Satin finih over gloss I believe.

[@thegreatescape2022]

They do fantastic work!

[@thegreatescape2022]

We appreciate that! 😊 Seems like most would go with satin, we're still trying to decide. I have a feeling we won't know for sure until we try one out and go "oh... That's it!"

[@southernpaths2986]

@@HansQuistorff absolutely. Aladino is an absolute MASTER! I love what they did with Magic Carpet 1 and am really excited to see how MC2 ends up. You know it’s going to be amazing!

[@nickpitera7891]

Great episode. I need to pull my chain plates, Rebed and take a closer look. What in the world was S&S thinking when designing our chain plates?Your toe rail turned out beautifully. I vote for Epiphanes Rubbed Effort for the interior. Has a nice nautical look and feel. Cheers, Nick. S/V Angela Mia T37C #336 Lake Superior.

[@thegreatescape2022]

I wish they were all easy to get to! We're in the middle of replacing all of ours right now, along with recoring the wet decks that surround them. Getting lots of votes for the Epiphanes Rubbed Effect! We'll have to try this one out

[@nickpitera7891]

It will be good to see how you fix the deck core. From the topside or from below. In my “ List” Happy New Year. Nick.

[@roverrepublic]

I always prefer satin. Just my 2 cents

[@timboflyer]

Hey! I found your videos because i am looking in to getting a tartan 37 and your videos have been very helpful. I haven’t been able to find what the head room is down below. I’m 6’ 2” is that going to be a problem for me?

[@thegreatescape2022]

We took a few measurements and the centerline is the tallest, around 6' 3", with it tapering to near 6' 2" towards either side. The head has about 6' 1" of headroom, same with the v berth (not standing under the hatch which would add a couple of inches). I'd definitely see if you can take a look at one near you and see what you think! Saylor is 6' and doesn't have any problems. Good luck!! They're great boats

[@stevethurlow9059]

I can attest to replacing All the chain plates...4 out of 6 were broken on our boat

[@thegreatescape2022]

Wow, that's a lot!! We're in the process of replacing all of them this off season, it's a lot of work but will be well worth the peace of mind!

[@saylaveenadmearedead]

Hope the Surveyor refunded your $$... this is unacceptable