Removing Rust with Electrolysis - WOOD magazine

Simple rust removal technique for hand tools and small metal items using a battery charger. Find lots more woodworking information from the world's leading woodworking magazine at www.woodmagazin...

[@blindmify]

You can make your own Washing Soda too. Washing Soda (Na2CO3) is just Baking Soda (NaHCO2) that has had it's Carbon Dioxide (co2) heated away. The reason cooks use Baking Soda in baking is that during the heating process the Soda releases it's co2 which helps give baked goods that light and fluffy texture. Anyway, you can spread your Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate) out in a baking pan place it in a 400 degree oven for an hour and you'll have Washing Soda (sodium carbonate).

[@tobiasheemels6552]

Appreciate, thanks!

[@businessraptor134]

Thanks Moo

[@venaist]

Thanks!

[@SonOfFurzehatt]

Or if it's in solution, heating it to boiling point is enough to convert it. Just be careful of the fizzing.

[@BritishBeachcomber]

*Just use washing soda. It's cheap enough, so why bother making it?*

[@batbawls]

Regarding the holes in the tub, keep in mind the displacement based upon the size of the item you submerge.

[@Bowtie41]

One point on using rebar as an anode.It usually has a scale coating from manufacturing that needs to be wire-wheeled off to perform at it's best.Also,for that large of a tank and using 4 anodes,the 10 amp would work better.Lastly,put about a cup of regular baking soda in that large a tank will help alot,and a little TSP(trisodiumphosphate)helps make the black slime easier to remove from the parts.Hope this helps!

[@jibibailsbrt290]

After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans kzbin.infoUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!

[@phbrinsden]

A few years ago I restored a full set of Bedrock planes. I carefully and relentlessly looked for Bedrock rusty junk parts until I had all the parts needed. I electrolysed everything, ensured the iron was fully dried (it IS porous), re japanned with the real japan (not paint) and replaced totes and knobs with new ones to exact dimensions made from rosewood. The only thing not made by Stanley, apart from totes and knobs, are the Hock cutters. The set (#602 through #608) is in regular bench use and are awesome. If you use this electrolysis process on cast iron I do recommend some time in a warm electric oven (not gas) to thoroughly dry the iron. You don’t want moisture trapped in the pores and then Japan over it. I used washing soda just like this video suggests and a 12 volt battery charger. I live in Houston and in the summer I laid a 12 volt computer cooling fan on top of the charger just to help the cooling along by sucking air up through the charger. Worked great. There is real satisfaction bringing a set of planes back to full productive life.

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

Thank you for such a clear explanation on how to restore vintage pieces. It's been many decades since learning this in high school chemistry class, so your details (none the least being safety) are much appreciated.

[@alexplorer]

Suggestion: Put a couple notches (dados) on the bottom of the wood "plank" to catch the edges of the tub. Serves a couple purposes: Keeps the wood from getting knocked into the tub. Also helps reinforce the thin tub walls against the pressure from the water.

[@raajmata]

Hi Sir. U r the first person to give the details of the process in real detail.. thanks for that. Keep ur videos coming..

[@gdubzyau5503]

I agree. This was the best video for beginners I have found. Thanks

[@andrewdegozaru74]

Easy way to remember is the part turns the same colour as the electrical point. Sacrificial anode (red) creates red rust. Cathode (black) turns conected part black (which is what you want).

[@Evil_hag]

This is such a good tip! I made an account just to say thanks haha

[@TheJoacosta]

Great video!! When i saw this technique about remove the rust from the metals, i tried in my home. I have and old water pump and was rusty so i tried to remove it from the water pump and i left to work out 12 hours until the next day! In the morning, i umpluged the electricity from the tank and see hows going the water pump! After that i brushed it with an metal brush and remove the last rust with bunch of water! The result was amazing! It cleans everything on that water pump and i painted first with anti rust paint and then i painted with black! Im really proud to find out a good technique that take the rust from the metal!! Im using this technique each time that i need it!!

[@Mezman101]

Definite 'like' as well as great appreciation. Zero click bait with fully detailed information. An unfortunate rarity. Thanks for getting to the point and sticking to it 👍!!

[@John-gm8ty]

Thank you for your video, I didn't realise about the chromium leeching from stainless, didn't even consider it. you've helped me be a little more environmentally conscious and probably helped my health.

[@adopeonarope]

How did you dispose of the water?

[@John-gm8ty]

@@adopeonarope I never tried to make HHO, so no waste to try to dispose of. if I were to try it, I think I'd go the carbon plate solution.

[@kenzpenz]

Just in case you are checking your site I thought you might like to know I copied your setup exactly. I even found the plastic tub at Home Depot and it is exactly like yours It works great. Thanks for the information.

[@rh5971]

Great video! Most of the videos I have watched on this are fifteen or more minutes long and are filled with questionable information. There are some good ones, but this is the best by far. Thank you for clear and direct presentation and cautions. Earned a sub!!!

[@tonyweerdenburg8904]

you are right on overly long vids . Guess some people just like to hear themselves talk . Or they think they are getting paid by the word

[@linallenm0tcf144]

Excellent video - many thanks - plain and easy to understand and NO advertising!!! A refreshing change!

[@SkynyrdTim]

I copied this setup to remove rust from a Revolutionary War era stirrup I found while metal detecting. Worked great! Thanks for the easy to follow instructions!

[@angusmacgyver9728]

Modern battery chargers require a 12-volt battery turn on. A cart or car battery is placed in parallel with the charger. Also a product like Pickles 20 used after the electrolysis tank will remove any fine rust and provide a coating to prevent flash rusting.

[@bobblack3870]

Thanks to this video, I successfully de-rusted many of my things. This works perfectly and includes excellent tips. BUT - I HAVE A TIP. This video shows the metal objects suspended in the water, but this is not necessary. The tub is plastic, thus non-conductive. I had some heavy components that I laid on the bottom. Just because, I laid them so they were not completely 'flat' on the bottom (I tipped them with a scrap piece of wood). Those components were wired. Then on top of the big pieces, I placed loads of rusty miscellaneous pieces, even rusty allen wrenches and drill bits. Because all of the pieces were touching each other, current flowed through all of the components and all of them were de-rusted. The only requirement is to make sure the center "pile" is below the water line and not touching any of the positive anodes. I would imagine that if one were to do this regularly, it would be possible to create a steel grid to lay on the bottom and have that wired, then lay objects on top of the grid. Note: I believe this works better than Evaporust. Evapo will score polished surfaces, whereas this process will not.

[@yertelt5570]

I believe suspending is more for easy removal of the piece? I haven't tried this yet so I'm just guessing. Pretty sure you're right about the wired grid, think I saw a video somewhere of a commercial set-up like that. You're "pile" method sounds like it works well for multiple items. Thanks for the tips.

[@joshoooway]

If I'm doing a large piece that can't be fully submerged, is there any reason why the part couldn't be partially submerged and when completed, flipped and done again?

[@bobblack3870]

@@joshoooway I see no reason why not. Submerging area(s) common to two or more sessions should not have a negative result, but there might be the possibility of "water lines". If this idea helps, note that you can make your own tub using large sheet plastic with the sides supported by a frame or walls or objects of some type.

[@salz.7167]

Hi Lucas, I sometimes restore Lionel trains. Your video and method will make my job simple for removing rust. Thank you for posting, Sal

[@Lens98052]

As the video says, this process has the same danger as charging a lead acid battery in a closed environment. The explosion can be quite spectacular, as a friend found out to his cost when he got acid sprayed all over his face. Great point about the hexavalent chromium, also.

[@silkenpaw]

Great explanation and demonstration of the setup! Thank you so much.

[@jomar6940]

Great video, great information with just the right amount of technical information. My only suggestion would be a quick before and after picture, for the curious fellows.

[@matheussanthiago9685]

thank you so so much after about a year, I've finally gathered all the gear necessary to make my own eletrolisys tank and it work, solely because of your assembling guide you sir is a godsend

[@SmDJeremy]

A year..oh boy. Glad you managed to finish your build in Venezuela

[@LuvBorderCollies]

Great video!!! Thanks for posting it. This will be soooooo much better than dealing with any quantity of acid based rust removers.

[@bldann]

This is the first video of its type that has given me the confidence to want to build my own e-tank! Thanks so much! Excellent presentation!

[@MatthewCuba]

I particularly like the simplicity of this setup. Planning to use this setup to de-rust a number of tools and parts.

[@fozzybear8878]

You're a good teacher, mate. Well done.

[@AW-if7mv]

Built one last night based on your video and it works GREAT. Thanks!!!

[@joeweber7051]

Very concise and well presented. Thank you for the information.

[@bdymn77]

Thanks for the video. made it just like your instructions. Did a great job of removing very thick rust. the only thing I wasn't sure of was the water temp. I used warm water since i was working out side and it was pretty chilly.

[@MyPlayfulPlans]

Great vid, better than many I've seen online about the process. Thanks.

[@jacobe1942]

i think i found all the info i need thanks. especially for addressing the safety issues.

[@MarkusWITH_a_k]

Just realized this was ten years ago. Nice I like the fact that you have the anodes on all four side. Great job

[@facepalmdaily4404]

It's perfectly safe to use Stainless steel in this set up... so long as the SS is connected to the Cathode (negative) side. Hexavalent Chromium is basically an oxidized form of Chromium. What's happening in that electrolysis bath is that the Anode is attracting the oxidation while you are getting a reduction at the Cathode. If you have the SS as the anode then you are oxidizing it, creating HexChrome.... but It's impossible to create HexChrome through reduction on SS at the Cathode side. So just make sure you don't use Stainless for the Anode and you are safe.

[@walter2990]

Thanks for that info about the Stainless! I looked at several other videos about this process, but None of them warned about SS hexa-whatever leaching out, much less about the cathod vs. annode sides! In fact, one site actually said that he was using SS wire in his process! I had begun my rust removal, using SS wire on both sides, and then to confirm I was doing it right..., I stumbled onto this video advising against using SS, one hour after beginning it. I stopped the process immediately and washed all of the parts, and restrung them with baleing wire..., and washed my hands quickly. I wish I had had the brains to take chemistry, way back in school! My math skills weren't up to the task! Thank you both again!

[@manolisgledsodakis873]

I was using this method 40 years ago on rusted car parts - brake disks, etc.

[@clayroberts1804]

Well hell fire..you want a cookie?

[@mikerichardson7038]

Greetings from Devon in the UK. Just wanted to thank you for this. So informative and helpful. Take care

[@bullfrogpondshop3179]

Turns out you can make your own Washing Soda from regular baking soda, simply by spreading it out on a cookie sheet and baking at 400F for 30-60 minutes, and allowing it to cool. As luck would have it, I took a couple depressurized fire extinguishers to the scrap yard literally hours ago. I decided to empty the baking soda into a bucket beforehand. I figured I could use it for SOMETHING. Dang, I'mma go buy a lottery ticket!

[@markgkenny2264]

Very informative. Well done. I would have enjoyed seeing the plane closeup. Most of us enjoy seeing the final product.

[@MikeSmith-vb8ul]

So basically electrolysis just removes rust simply by generating lots and lots hydrogen gas for use as a quick debriding agent (to mechanically dislodge the rust away). So, you'll want to run this at high currents and likewise keep the anodes _very close_ to the cathode to maximize energy-efficiency (waste less energy just on running current through the solution!). FYI: 1) You do **NOT** need a "sacrificial" anode!! Graphite anodes will work just fine!! 2) Forget washing soda -- just use plain sodium sulfate (Na2SO4)!! Much cheaper and will probably work better too!! 3) You can definitely use copper wire for the _cathode_ just fine too without any problems at all -- _but do NOT use it as the anode!!_ 4) Also, you'll want to "surround" the cathode as _closely_ as possible with anodes to maximize energy-efficiency (less energy wasted on just running current through the solution) as well as to keep each anode in better shape!! (especially if you plan to reuse them)

[@shamptown]

Thanks for this comment. I was wondering if using a clean anode would yield better results than a reused one or one that was already rusty so your #4 pretty much answered that. I was also curious if using an anode with a larger surface area would be more efficient, e.g., using a plate of steel rather than a thin rod. Any thoughts?

[@MikeSmith-vb8ul]

@@shamptown Anodes with larger surface area would be more efficient -- you would essentially waste less energy just pushing current through the solution.

[@etjones3496]

Can the wire used to suspend the object be galvanized wire? Will it give off any toxins or cause the object being derusted to be coated with a thin coat of zinc?

[@fm1224]

nice vid...like the 2amp trickle charge! Like how you made your tank! good info on NOT using SS! appreciate the Video!

[@justinhall2117]

I was looking up videos on rusting foothold traps and came across this. I don't need to remove rust but im glad I watched it and learned something

[@El_Deplorable]

Thank you for another great video! I do try to watch a couple different videos before I try a un familiar build. Sometimes using different methods to work with what I have/need. These differences are usually obvious to me. Since I'm no scientist I hoped you could help me save trial-and-error time and tell me what solution to use since I have seen the tank filled with a part distilled Malt vinegar, salt and then mostly water. Why vinegar? why salt? Or why not? Which is most effective? I know salt will help to cunduct electricity but that is about the extent of of what I get. I like 100% of this build & will just scaled-down & go with what you have done. What do I fill it with to get the job done best? Thanks for your help & to all who help by commenting on my question.

[@skeetersaurus6249]

The higher the alkaline solution, the faster and deeper the scrub, too...I found that if you take regular Baking Soda, and 'cook' it on a cookie sheet in the oven for an hour at 475-F, you can get that 7-8 pH up to almost 11 (or you can use powdered lye), and it works WONDERFUL for deep rust on car parts, garage sale axes, hatchets, knives...especially if you restore them...

[@dennisw8166]

Interesting. I'm going to try that. Thanks

[@kodiham7532]

I have some old zinc anodes removed from my boat. They still have plenty of metal left. Can I used it as the anode in this application?

[@tmrmilano]

rebar may contain stainless steel, since it is made from scrap, such as bearings. Mild steel might be a better choice for the anode.

[@ozonethegreat6948]

Good point, thanks for info. is there a way to tell?

[@ozonethegreat6948]

@jubjub247 Ah yes, the animal by product, how silly of me!

[@Taunus-Tim]

@jubjub247 the amount of foreign metals would be so damn low, that you don't have to fear them at all... the anode also won't dissolve but being coated in Iron instead. so nothing to worry about

[@usernamemykel]

@jubjub247 No, they eat the cats.

[@terretulsiak]

I had an old timer tell me this process once and couldn't write fast enough as he described it in a Deep South no teeth accent- but he was a wealth of information.

[@stephenarling1667]

Toothless geezers can be cornucopias of arcane truth.

[@paulenna7285]

How is the water disposed?

[@CheralRallock]

Rather than using paste wax, put the cast iron into a 300F oven for an hour to ensure the iron is COMPLETELY dry. While it is still hot from the oven, wipe on a very thin coating of Manteca or Lard or Tallow. Any one of tHese three types of naturally occurring animal fat will protect the iron from rusting. Once the piece is coated, place it back in the 300F oven for an hour and let it cool to room temperature. Wipe on a second, very thin coating and bake it at 350F for an hour and let it cool to room temperature. Wipe on a third very thin coating and bake it at 400F for an hour and let cool to room temperature. Finally, apply a thin coating of paste wax to the piece. This will give you an air/water impermeable layer of protection that is literally baked on to the piece. I only recommend this for simple pieces of cast iron such as planes, skillets, and other pieces comprised entirely of cast iron.

[@jesuschrist9009]

Unique suggestion. Where did you learn this technique?

[@clockguy2]

We used paste wax on the table saw tables of the cabinet shop I worked at and it helps the wood slide easier and helps something like a plane slide better. Lard can get sticky and even go rancid with time. Ive tried both and I'd rather stick with paste wax IMHO.

[@MrCmendez18]

Cheral Rallock if

[@Lens98052]

It is the way to season a cast iron skillet, and you have to be very careful not to have excess fat on the piece. I've stopped doing this for anything other than low carbon cast iron because you can ruin the piece.

[@Lens98052]

Well if he is a moron, then so is everyone else that roasts meat at a high temperature and then eats the fat that has been partially converted into very unheathly compounds on the surface of the meat. Lard/manteca does not have a fixed chemical composition after storing and what it converts to varies. Beef tallow has a similar, but less severe problem. Look up what walnut oil can produce when it decomposes. It may not be rocket science but it sure is complicated chemistry.

[@jeffmech600]

So im going to use the Walmart to kiddie pool and do this to my jeep

[@MrGaryGG48]

You might want to pull the radio first... it'll probably mess up the innards!! ;^)

[@SjrkoTheGamer]

hold my miata, i need a pool aswell

[@gu3610]

Great representation of electrolysis! You forgot tell one thing! This has to be done in a WELL VENTILLATED AREA or do it outside. There is hydrogen gas being released in the process and that can explode indoors.

[@phackqu]

Cool Video. These are reasons why i love KZbin and the Internet.

[@davidgreene8473]

How many times can you reuse the tank solution before you need to change if? Will the rust settle to the bottom enough that you can remove it? Does the water need to be distilled or can it be tap water?

[@shortfuse43]

Very well done video. One thing to point out regarding the use of the battery chargers. One must use a "manual" charger instead of one of the newer "automatic" chargers. The automatic chargers use a sensing circuit to "look" to see if there is a battery attached and if you connect one of these to the electrolyte setup, it won't find a battery and henceforth will not work. You have to use a conventional, manual charger.

[@MyPlayfulPlans]

You didn't mention disposal of the fluid, or whether or not it can be reused for a number of tools. ?

[@andrewmcallister4151]

There is no reason to dump the fluid out each time, just use it over and ive again. And the solution is basically baking soda and water, you can dump it in your front yard, the iron would be good for the grass.

[@lilywonder6315]

Why does he remind me of dexter lol This video is very calming for some reason. Loved it, thank you sir.

[@henryraymond8676]

I have used this method and yes, it does work. It is rather slow though. Vinegar works too and is slow, so does molasses and hydrochloric (muratic) acid. If U leave them in too long though they will eat the metal away as well so timing can be critical depending upon how much rust/metal U want to remove. I'm not sure this is really any faster certainly or does any better job than simple scraping, brushing, brush wheel, or sandpaper. Also, the fluid gets rather nasty fairly quickly, you to rinse everything off and wipe it all down, and it doesn't "refill" the pits. It seems to work best on superficial, not deep, rust.

[@daviddecatur4190]

Very well presented the other video's do not talk about the test lead connections I forgot which lead you attached to your rusted object. very nice job Dave

[@briankavanagh1947]

Got the tank a 3 gallon 1 buying the laundry powder tomorrow and some salvaged mild steel plate 6" x 6" x 1/8" for the anodes I will let you know how I get on. Thank you for the video instructions. Cheers Brian

[@spartan009]

i might be wrong but o2 and h2 won't gather at the ceiling because co2 is lighter (reason why during a fire you crawl to the exit).

[@streamliner0_019]

Thank you so much

[@LuvBorderCollies]

It should. A buddy just got into motorcycle parts salvaging and he swears by this method. Until I saw this video I'd forgotten about it. I now recall him saying it was super easy with great results. :-)

[@juhapackalen896]

This works nicely but please do not try to use partitial rust removal for chromed or otherwise layered parts. The process will also remove partitally other layers from metals. I tryed to remove tiny rusted dots from chrome plated motorcyle part and killed the chrome surface.

[@slothmarathonpromotions2470]

For rust removal I use vinegar and a car battery with electrodes. I fill a bin with vinegar and dump my rusty tools in the vinegar bath. I then take the electrodes from the car battery and clamp them on each of my testicles while I wait. Within a few hours I usually see results.

[@ADAPTATION7]

Interesting.. o_O

[@royhoco5748]

I will stick to electrolysis

[@hueyfreeman4864]

☠️☠️☠️☠️☠️☠️ wtf

[@armandogonzalez6822]

Okay I think I will stick to plain vinegar there’s no way I’m clamping a car battery to my balls

[@royhoco5748]

"I then take the electrodes from the car battery and clamp them on each of my testicles while I wait." Within a few hours I usually see results. I would be of the opinion that using this method you would see very painful results immediately.

[@jp6234]

Thank you. Excellent presentation. 1: What kind of wax do you recommend after part is clean 2: How to dispose of toxic liquid. jp

[@ChristiaanLombard]

Thanks for this video! I made one almost exactly like yours and it works great! Been using it to refurbish a very old, very rusty bench vice. It also removes paint with the rust which is great for my application. What I found with this setup is that the cathodes (iron bars) builds up a layer of gunk that decreases the conductivity. Every 8 hours or so I have to use a metal brush to clean the cathodes. My power supply pulls 5A at 12V for big items. Drops to 1A with gunk build up.

[@nabeelhammad4524]

I am restoring my grandpas old plane. Thank you for the video

[@user-ug5sb6qg1u]

You can use a cellphone charger, takes longer because of low volts but it seems to work.

[@AdamEdington]

My best way of rust removal: Salt+Bicarb or Sodium Hydroxide, COPPER anode, +HIGH current density. without the chlorides copper will turn into a blue green mess as the carbonate combines with the copper to form malachite, add salt to kill this process High current density will reduce iron oxide, it is not free hydrogen that reduces iron oxide since iron will reduce hydrogen, not the other way round. the solution will turn caustic, which when combined with heat, any scrap of grease will turn to soap. this will also copper plate and degrease your part prior to nickel plating Beware the bubbles that can go bang with a spark, dont mix the bubbles from the anode with those from the cathode, and you will never get more than an energetic thwooop, if you mix the bubbles it can get VERRY sharp on the eardrums

[@Fredmullegun]

This reaction works line of site. This 4 anode setup takes that into account. Nice.

[@brucek.evans-historian6480]

I did a metal shop vac once by suspending the anode in it while it was filled with electrolytic water. Watch out for short circuits, the anode and cathode must remain insulated from one another. Try to avoid city tap water I use fresh catch rain or snow, which I store in 3 thirty gallon plastic drums. Add the electrolyte before storage to avoid fungal growth. This only works line of sight so you may need to change item in relation to the anodes.

[@iamfcon]

Also wanted to know, since I realize now that galvanized steel would start to break down when submerged, what kind of cathode wire did you use? The only non-galvanized steel options I've found online to buy have been annealed steel and high carbon steel. Is there any specific type of steel you would recommend that would be able to be submerged a bit when holding nuts and bolts?

[@usernamemykel]

He's a woodpecker, not a metallurgist.

[@ryanpark2049]

Imagine showing this setup to your date the first time she comes over.

[@MsZenJenn]

Thank you, for saving me from using the copper wire the Lowe's employee sent me home with! : )

[@Fucknuts4u]

Ahhh, big box store employees. Know-it-alls who know jackshit and love to share their lack of knowledge with anybody who they think will pay attention. If they had actually had any experience based knowledge, they wouldn't be working for minimum wage in a big box store.

[@bialsarwar1928]

Fucknuts did someone ask?

[@Fucknuts4u]

@@bialsarwar1928 - It wasn't an answer, it was a response.

[@chefbambu9382]

Second time to view your video, first several years ago. Thank you again.

[@rockdealer1]

Thank you, really helpfull, all the data about byproducts was priceless. Beautifully didactic and explained.

[@commentatron]

As Peter Griffin would say, "It was not shallow and pedantic."

[@cleancarnivore]

Thanks to this video I am in the process of restoring not one but two cast iron dutch ovens with lids. It will no doubt take awhile since the rust is thick as they have been in the weather for years. I found this video to "demystify" the electrolysis process and the tank construction easy to follow. My 32 gal tank with 24 gallons of water is working and bubbling as I write. The toughest part is the wait for the results. I like the idea of multiple anodes.

[@doursiesel9867]

How did the oven look after it finished? Did it achieve the results you were looking for?

[@user-io9ln1or7c]

Thank you Sir.🎉🎉🎉

[@walshesworkshop]

Great video. One question, if you can’t use stainless steel in the solution, what kind of steel wire connects to the crossmember?

[@walter2990]

Steel coat hangers or rebar tying wire will work fine.

[@rw54]

Hey sir, what a great job you have done showing us how to build an electrolysis tank. I do have one question for you though the only wire that I could find to hang my project from inside the tank is galvanized steel picture hanging wire. Is there any problem with doing this? Many regards, Rusty Walker.

[@Thep660]

Hi Russell, I'm currently trying to do this 2 years later and ran into the same question (still can't find the answer), did you ever get an answer about what wire to use and where to buy it?

[@rbrown2895]

An oldie but a goodie video. Great explanation!!👍😎👍

[@scottburrous2375]

My experience: I used muriatic acid and water as my medium and 36vdc as my electrical source. The higher the potential, the faster the removal rate. The muriatic acid (aside from being a natural rust removal agent) is also an outstanding electrolyte.

[@usernamemykel]

...and skin remover...

[@walter2990]

Too many dangerous fumes released for the average DIY guy. Very risky, IMHO. Although, I do use straight muratic acid baths for some rust removal, but always outside, with a fan blowing fumes away from the house, & near areas that I don't care if the foilage will die..., cause it will. Trust me.

[@Thrashaero]

Well I'll be damned, out of all the videos on this topic this the only one that covers the dangerous gases

[@mdgonnuscio]

Thank you, I have a small iron stove that I derusted with a power tool, I'm going to try doing to do this to remove the rust in the nooks and crannies than set a fire in it to dry it. than use a coating to seal the stove to protect it. Thanks

[@jonathanbrooks1857]

Aluminum doesn't rust the same as ferrous metal, the oxide layer that forms on aluminum actually protects it from further oxidation. However, the oxide layer will eventually become hydrated - effectively turning it back into its original ore - Bauxite. And yes, electrolysis is one way Bauxite is turned into Aluminum although it requires much more energy.

[@dannydee9919]

Hi! I don't have washing soda, I do have baking soda.. can baking soda be use in lieu of washing soda? I don't want to go out and purchase washing if I don't have to.. what about basic over the counter table salt? Thanks!

[@canuhonk7433]

Thanks for the detailed video. Can galvanized steel wire be used on the part being treated?

[@farmboy4189]

Thank you

[@Hazelford]

A very informative vid. Very well explained and a great help. Thank you.

[@richardwise350]

Good video but would you recommend this process with a high quality piece aluminum address sign? The sign was held on with steel hardware that rusted onto the sign. I worry about adding the Arm and Hammer detergent and how that would react with the aluminum finish on the sign.

[@iamgenx]

I'm sorry if this has been asked/answered, but does the piece need to be 100% completely submerged? We have a big engine we're trying this on, and we're having a hard time getting it in a tub big enough to be completely submerged without the sides of the tub crapping out on us with the weight of the engine and the water. And it doesn't even completely submerge.

[@sparkyheberling6115]

Is there a particular reason why copper wire is used to connect the rebar, instead of steel wire?

[@rayswoodshop4467]

I made a electrolysis tub in 5 gal bucket. I used it to clean some old jackplanes I got at a fleamarket . It worked great ! Just follow the warnings given here .

[@roger55es]

Would be an idea to nickle plate the tool for long time protection

[@rebel.mma.youtube]

Can u do this with ⚙️ single gears? Bearings? How about gears with synchros?

[@davidworsley7969]

very true,but on the plus side it's not as destructive-it's similar to the green patina that builds up on copper but not nearly as attractive.Hey-what's a word between friends?

[@rottweilerinpjs9758]

I used a similar method in electroplating but used vinegar instead if soap powder. Would vinegar give the same result.?

[@jbt369]

1/4 Cup = 3 Tablespoons. With ten gallons, I'll bet just adding a whole cup would be fine. Faster, too.

[@mattc3152]

1/4 cup = 4 Tablespoons

[@charleshoward1591]

What do you do with the sodium carbonate solution after you are done? Is it safe to pour down a drain?

[@miguelslade]

Really well explained,thanks