The Power of Electrolysis | How To Transform Rusty Tools!

[@aliennomad3532]

Good video showing the practicalities of doing this. However, although this is being referred to as electrolysis, it isn't using the electrolysis to transfer rust to the anode in the way anodising works. What is actually happening is that the water is being separated into oxygen at the anode and hydrogen at the cathode. The oxygen is highly reactive with the metal anode and rusts it. However, at the cathode the hydrogen doesn't react but effectively blows the rust off the surface, sand blasting at atomic level. The result is that the rust on the rusty item ends up in the water, which is why it goes brown. There is no transfer of the rust to the anode. In fact, there ends up being more rust as there is now the rust on the anode and the rust from the item in the water. The anodes don't even need to be sacrificial for this to work, you can use stainless steel and it will still work, although some stainless steel will still rust under these conditions. This also works as a paint stripper. I use this to remove the paint from metal items. They don't need to be iron, so long as they conduct. It's best to lightly scratch the paint surface if possible but it works fine with old Dinky cars, etc. and works out much cheaper than using paint stripper, plus it's less toxic or harmful, both to yourself and the environment. I also have an easy way of remembering which way to connect: +ve to "adding rust" -ve to "subtracting rust".

[@pennyan2057]

Hey Alien, I have an aluminum powder coated black fishing reel spool that's corroded from salt water, I've tried methelene chloride stripper with no results. I want to remove all the paint without damaging the spool so I can powder coat it again, think this method is worth a try????

[@lordchickenhawk]

@@pennyan2057 I'd be interested to try this too. One Mr McBeardy commented on this video that he used borax instead of washing soda. I'd be interested to see if dilute borax might be gentler on alloy in this application as it has a bit lower pH

[@lordchickenhawk]

Hmm... perhaps no, from what I can find the opposite might be true. At least, from some articles I have been reading it could be very dependent on temperature, current density and borate concentration. Too involved for a casual workshop like mine anyway.

[@TheMightyRechecki]

😊

[@tatakuci762]

Ààà

[@mdw1274]

I'm from the USA and at 70yrs cant tell you how much I appreciate this video. Although most of my tools are kept spotless, I, like you go to swap meets and garage sales and have picked up some great older tools and this will help restore them. Keep up the great work.

[@ytSuns26]

I am seventy as well, yesterday I stepped into my shop and for a second. I wasn’t sure if I was in an antique barn or my workshop. Lots of my tools are 50 years old.

[@tdperkinsgmail]

Just use white vinegar, and a wire brush, 24 hrs in vinegar and it's good as new

[@Carboneye7]

70yr old stop hoarding tools you’ll never use. Save some for the rest of us bro! I see a lot of old guys that just have to buy up everything before anyone else at yard sales. Knowing they will never use it

[@gasgiant7122]

@mdw hello from UK👍

[@valmikabeneteau7229]

@@Carboneye7That's because we get up earlier then you kids.

[@paulkramer4176]

I've used electrolysis many times. Dom's vid is good. I've often done a pile of things. Don't even have to connect wires directly to all the parts, as long as they are touching each other, it works. (better of course to connect wires). Also, as to only a few hours, depends on how rusty the items are. I've occasionally needed to leave the product in for a week. No big deal. Does a stunning job. NO elbow grease required. Leaves the finished product sort of "black". Why? Cause the hard to remove red rust, (ferrous oxide) is replaced with ferric oxide, (black rust). Black Ferric oxide is fairly easily washed off, leaving a clean surface. sometimes you have a BIG item. Easy to build a wooden frame, lined with plywood, then line that with polyethylene sheeting. You can put in a large free standing machine that way. As Dom said, don't use a fancy charge controller. Some of those don't recognize what you are trying to do, and don't "see" a battery, so won't work. You can trick those by putting a battery inline too, so that it thinks there is a battery that needs charging though.

[@marshalltjones]

There are two types of rust. The first step of the rusting process produces Magnetite (Fe304), which is tightly adherent to the iron and is black in color. If you leave it longer, you get red rust (Fe2O3), or hematite. Red rust takes up more space than the iron it replaces, so it flakes off. The electrolysis process causes the red rust to detach from the underlying metal because of the bubbling. The black rust that underlies it actually is reduced back to metallic iron by the current. The density of the resultant iron is maximized by using a low voltage 2-3 volts over a long period of time, but the 12V method also works pretty well.

[@anthonykrusel349]

To Marshall Jones: Thanks for the good info. I've got a microwave oven transformer I've rewrapped that produces 2.8VAC. Will AC voltage work for this and what amperage suggested as starting point? I adjust current with multiple halogen bulbs in parallel to MOT source. Thank you, Marshall Jones

[@TheOwlman]

@@anthonykrusel349 The process is polarity sensitive - watch around 5:00 carefully and you will see that you need DC (also, the anodes are sacrificial, so you never want your part to be the anode). I can certainly endorse what @Marshal Jones said, a lower voltage is a much better idea - I use a benchtop power supply set to around -4V- *Edit:* 6V and also limit the current to keep the rate of gas evolution down (one thing Dom failed to mention was the gas, you need to do this in a well ventilated space because it is going to produce free hydrogen and oxygen gas).

[@marshalltjones]

@@anthonykrusel349 Has to be DC....

[@nevillemason6791]

So a 6v battery charger (used for old motorcycle batteries and very old cars) would work better than the 12v type over a long period?

[@peterwhite51]

@@nevillemason6791 Both voltages should work, 6 Volt will just take longer.

[@andrewfalenski6583]

You can also do this inside-out. I used this method to remove the rust from the inside of a motorcycle gas tank. Negative to the bare metal of the tank, positive to a large bolt suspended inside the tank full of sodium carbonate solution.

[@DominicChineas]

Now that’s a brilliant idea! Thank you for sharing!

[@melodoubt]

Brilliant idea !

[@professorxgaming2070]

thats slick

[@MadMax-bq6pg]

@1978ajax long long ago when I was a nurse I had a patient with burns to 30% of his body due to ignorance. This apprentice asked his boss what to do about “the stuff in the tank” & the boss said “don’t worry, it’ll be ok”. And so the apprentice started welding the fuel tank.

[@carpediemarts705]

@@MadMax-bq6pg if you're filling the tank with electrolyte and water, there wouldn't be explosive vapors in there. Yes, it's sad when people do amazingly stupid things and get hurt. Cleaning a tank via electrolysis wouldn't be this story though.

[@derbyshirebirdwatcher6054]

Hello Dom It might be worth mentioning that the gases bubbling off the electrodes are oxygen and hydrogen, so ventilation is important to avoid any danger of explosion.

[@zacharysmith5947]

I was thinking DUDE you don't want to just leave that unsupervised. WTH putting hands into the liquid is a safety no!no! too! He should be using plastic tongs!

[@anthonyskilton8634]

Or capture the O2 and H for use with HHO welding? Maybe not but it does need dealing with if this is not done outside.

[@jackbloznowski5429]

In this small application the gases will be too dilute to cause an explosion.

[@oneeyedphotographer]

@@zacharysmith5947 Good gloves are fine.

[@johnbrennan7175]

This is noted in the comments below the video i.e. "SAFETY NOTICE: Use in a well-ventilated space or wear a mask, as the bubbles can be hazardous! "

[@franck71vdb]

Hi Dom, I think it would be worth mentioning that during this type of electrolysis, the electrolyte will release hydrogen gases...this could be dangerous in a confined environment...so a well ventilated room is indeed necessary...

[@fajile5109]

One side makes hydrogen the other side makes oxygen both go boomy boom

[@Starman3539]

I have been faithfully watching your endeavours in the REPAIR SHOP and today I stumbled on your KZbin site. From now on I shall double the pleasure of watching the wonders you make. I hope you don't stop showing us what you make.

[@allandavidmilne]

Exactly the same happened to me. I did wonder what these guys do apart from the Repair Shop

[@derek876544]

same here

[@ivorboyd3126]

Brilliant video. Recently started blacksmithing and bought some old tools to get up and running and this looks like the ultimate way to restore them to their former condition. Thanks to all who have highlighted dangers from poor ventilation. I would add the importance of switching off power BEFORE disconnecting any components as even a small spark could ignite that oxy/hydrogen mix. The process is similar to charging a car battery and I have had to give first aid to someone who removed lead with power on and the spark blew up the battery. (almost blinded him) Careful !!!

[@simonfairweather4184]

Hello Dom, Captain Cautious here! Electrolysis is a fantastic way to clean more "solid" items but should be used with caution on "edge" tools such as saws and chisels as Hydrogen Embrittlement may occur. Other than that water and electricity.........hours fun for all the family! Cheers Simon

[@DominicChineas]

Nice one thank you Simon, appreciate the warning!

[@wilhelmvonn9619]

Good point. Also applies to springs, which can become liable to snap. Google Hydrogen Embrittlement for more information, including heat treatment to cure problem.

[@1pcfred]

You can bake the hydrogen out of steel. Or just give it time.

[@MattNolanCustom]

I would warn against using just any kind of steel for the sacrificial anode(s). If you use a Stainless or relatively high Chromium content steel, it will make your leftover water very poisonous. Not something you should then pour down the drain! So, only use mild steel and similar for your anodes.

[@jasonbrack2042]

Thank you for the heads up!

[@duesenberg1000]

You could use a carbon rod such as used in air arc weld removal. Carbon keeps the water much cleaner than a steel anode.

[@johnbrennan7175]

Baking Soda can sometimes neutralise the used solution

[@ajayray4408]

@@johnbrennan7175 I'm sure it can (it certainly works on acids) but in the case of stainless steel anodes, whatever you end up with will still have the chromium in it.

[@bitTorrenter]

@@ajayray4408 He's not using stainless steel in this video, so the warning is a little zealous.

[@OldSneelock]

I have been using electrolysis for a number of years. It is a permanent part of the tool restoration business here at Old Sneelock's Workshop. I use to be in charge of repairs in an aluminum anodizing shop. I replaced the expensive stainless steel tanks with plastic lined steel. When I retired and started restoring tools I used large wooden boxes lined with plastic sheeting for electrolysis. You can put very large pieces in a wooden crate and it is inexpensive to make any size you need.

[@kelhawk1]

Thanks! That is priceless info! Repost it under someone elses reply-laden comment, so more people see it!

[@howdymartin6258]

Someone not scared to show practical stuff - well done Dom!

[@georgedegooijer7950]

Nice technique. But the fizzing… that’s hydrogen- and oxygen-gas from splitting the water molecules. Make sure you ventilate! Leaving it “for a couple of hours” in a closed space can build up something you do not want.

[@erikmarx5135]

Boem, but the rust is away that for sure 😮

[@frederickjohnsen4246]

So don’t run the wood stove when doing this.

[@Tom-hz9oc]

You can separate the anode and cathode to capture the hydrogen coming off of the cathode, and capture the oxygen coming off of the anode.

[@adrianvasile4683]

Oxygen plus hydrogen and a tiny spark, you have created a bomb.

[@ryandeweese363]

Important point for Sure!!

[@sisyphussapprentice8976]

In an age that seems to be losing the ability to "make good" otherwise usable tools, it is refreshing to see the art is still alive and kicking. Thank you Sir .

[@mrmcbeardy9268]

Great vid Dominic! I often use electrolysis when removing rust on the motorcycles i restore. I use Borax in place of sodium carbonate, find that it works extremely well in cold water. cheers from Aussieland 🤙🍻

[@lordchickenhawk]

Interesting, I've never tried borax. I imagine would also do the job for removing unwanted coatings from alloy parts with out eating into them. I've been reading around the net a bit but I'm beginning to suspect that it might be very sensitive to current density and borate concentrations. I don't suppose you might have tried that by any chance?

[@osgeld]

should be noted that the fizzing is generating some tiny amound of hydrogen, which isnt that big of a deal in a good sized shop space

[@fordcortina3730]

Good stuff Dom. I have used this method to de-rust the awkwardly shaped metal heater body of my Mk2 Cortina with great effect. One word of warning though is to only use electrolysis in a well ventilated space as the gas given off at the cathode is hydrogen.

[@ncdave4life]

(Hydrogen gas is not toxic, but it is very, very flammable.)

[@TheXeroid]

Always enjoy watching Dom on Repair Shop so to find he has a YT channel is great news.

[@MrSongwriter2]

Plus1 on that. Hopefully Wills got one too

[@MianCowell]

Thanks, I couldn't remember where I knew him from!

[@allangibson4354]

Entertaining and so informative. Coming from Sheffield, a City that excels in the manufacture of quality tools, I appreciate how important it is to renovate and re-purpose tools such as these. As opposed to just buying substandard cheap rubbish and discarding them after little use. I just came across your presentations to-day, looking forward to seeing many more. Thanks for posting.

[@thebluesdk]

Thank You so much for a good educational video. I have a lot rusty tools to practice with🙂 In Denmark some artists make sculptures in some kind of wax, and paint it with, I think cuprium sulphat. The they make an electrolyt bath(?) of some kind and have some sacrificial cuprium, that Will, by electricity be moved trough The electrolyt medium and shape solid at The outside of The model. In Denmark The artist Galschioett is doing it, for years and has maked large scales models that way. As example a model of The godess of liberty in more than six foot tall. They have a big tank ive been told. Can You please show in a small scale how to do, and what needed to perform this proces? I think this proces Can be very usefull to learn and practice and maybe be used to do an surface non corrosive with other materiales. Like crome. (very poisones don't Even think of it) You asked for challenges🇩🇰🇩🇰🇩🇰✌️😉👍🏾 thank You on before hand. 🖐️

[@daveshipman2677]

Hi dom,great to see you again,as i always watch the repair shop,i have never thought of using electrolysis,as i normally just use apple cider vinegar,i will certainly be looking to use this method for all my future rust removal,great tutorial dom,keep up the awesome work that you do on the repair workshop,you guys have an incredible amount of talents,stay safe my friend.

[@robertjune1221]

You actually are using electrolysis with apple cider vinegar. Here, you are on steroids! It should do a better job and go faster.

[@MuttleyMutter]

Kudos to you, a very practical demonstration of the technique. Having checked my chemistry, the rust is being reduced to iron, but as the rust flakes are no longer well attached to the base metal, the rust becomes something like iron filings. That's the grey residue that's left behind. Another Repair Shop fan, and I deeply, deeply admire your signwriting skills. My hand was never steady enough.

[@chrism3839]

There are many ways to skin a cat in regards to getting rust off of an item. A hammer wasn't the best example in my opinion for two reasons. The first reason is that hammer was usable as a hammer regardless of rust, the only issue would be if you were worried about the surface marks it could leave and you wanted to make sure the face didn't have pitting. The second reason is that the item is easy to use other methods on, such as the wire wheel. Where this process shines is in complex shapes where a wire wheel cant get into, or areas that are seized with rust and something like an acid bath would not penetrate deep enough without first damaging other areas of the item being cleaned. What I see is a bunch of comments completely discounting the process because there is a different method available. And while I do agree if you were going to use a wire wheel on it... I would have started there and maybe bypassed the whole process, but the video is about the method used and how to do it, not necessarily stating its the best option for what you used it on. Someone else in the comments stated they used it to clean our gas tanks from the inside out, that is brilliant, and its a good example of the perfect use for this technique because trying that with a wire wheel would be ill advised. Long windedness aside, great video!

[@Aengus42]

I've used this method s lot & it never gets old! It's an amazing technique. What looks like hopelessly rusty metal comes out looking better than you could ever get using old fashioned wire brushing & hours of work. As you could see on the file, it reveals lettering that could easily be lost using abrasive methods. One thing, the older the better when it comes to battery chargers. You don't want any fancy modern components in there. Just a basic, old fashioned charger. I used old, sheet steel computer case covers for my sacrificial terminal. Laying it over the bottom of the tub & then suspended the items I was cleaning above it. That was all the items were close to the metal as it covered the whole bottom of my plastic container. If the computer case cover is painted or powder coated on one side then but that side to the bottom.

[@evebasford5811]

Fascinating watching this, clearing my late fathers tools, quite a lot are going to Africa via a charity but my husband keeps telling me that wooden handled tools no longer H & S approved ☹️, but they feel so much nicer and more tactile so I’ve made him keep some old favourites, like the screwdriver he cut down to have an inch long handle and short blade to fit in tight spots. Found that useful on my sewing machine! My dad loved watching you on the Repair Shop.

[@wellybobs4403]

Thats BS....

[@tiggywinkle1000]

The electrical apprentices had to use hammers with wood handles for safety, in case the chisel hit a live conductor.

[@todayintheshopbanksy5904]

Top Tip, I added a small fish tank heater to my setup to keep the water warm. I also made a box big enough for the rear subframe of my slk, lined it with a fish pond liner, worked a treat. Love this rust removal process.

[@robedmunds7163]

Can you then use that set up to zinc plate the items with the terminals reversed and some zinc as the sacrificial bit.

[@krakenseamonster7683]

i've been searching for a much practical solution to all of my rusty things for years...now that i have u on u tube...VOILA!!!....you are definitely what i wanted to give me details...all i can say iz...YOU ARE GREAT!!! UR NOT SELFISH OF UR IDEAS...HOPE THAT EVERYBODY SHOULD DO THE SAME...u r selfless

[@recloakedworkshop]

Hi Dom. Just discovered your channel today. Loved your work on TRS and always admire you, Steve and Will specifically (though the rest of the team are also incredible). I love the honesty you present when you approach an problem. Love to watch you work and will devour your postings on here!

[@noscwoh1]

Great video! Little tip: If you can't get your hands on sodium carbonate, you can convert baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to washing powder (sodium carbonate) rather easily. Heat baking soda in an oven for an hour at ~200F (~95C). That drives off water and carbon dioxide. 2 NaHCO3(s) → Na2CO3(s) + CO2(g) + H2O(g), and voila!

[@DominicChineas]

Thank you so much for the tip! Perfect!

[@Abby1952]

I' normally use molasses and water to clean rusty tools, but I think I shall give this a go. Thank you....love your videos.

[@bluebens2761]

I discovered this a couple months ago and already saved hundred in tools. I’m about to clean out my garage and I can’t imagine how many tools I would’ve thrown out if I didn’t come across this method. The best results is soak 24 hours, scrub with wire brush, soak for another 24 hours, light scrub with wire brush then rinse dry and oil to prevent further rust.

[@more.power.]

Hi Dominic we have come to know you though "The Repair Shop" broadcast on Choice TV in New Zealand. My daughter and I love the show and what the repair shop does to help people with their life long treasures. Thank you foe what you do.

[@DominicChineas]

Hi! Thanks so much for the message.. I hope your enjoying the show out there

[@dwarf_nz483]

@@DominicChineas We also love the show here in New Zealand. And now I have stumbled upon your channel here on YT. Oh happy days!

[@flamencoprof]

Another NZ "Repair Shop" viewer checks in. A few years back I bought a basic battery charger for this very purpose and can vouch that it works a treat. For smaller one-off jobs like, say an old screwdriver, simply immersing in vinegar for 24 hrs works pretty well too.

[@rixretros]

In North America, sodium carbonate is sold as washing soda and it usually is found in stores as an Arm & Hammer product.

[@duffman6675]

@@alexandrevaliquette1941 Nope: sodium bicarbonate is baking soda, sodium carbonate is washing soda, both sold by Arm & Hammer, orange box and yellow box respectively. Google it

[@BLKMGK4]

@@duffman6675 This is used for Tie Dye, which I do a lot of, and I checked the box I've got - Carbonate it is! Also sold for pool PH changes but is easiest to find as washing soda - Wally World has it dirt cheap :)

[@alexandrevaliquette1941]

@@duffman6675 Sorry folks, I did not know A&H sold sodium carbonate. I only saw bicarbonate in the grocery store here in Montreal. Thanks.

[@tomo4635]

30 mules

[@alexandrevaliquette1941]

@@tomo4635 30 Mules is Borax. unless somebody else tell me that 30 Mules are also packaging sodium carbonate!

[@agri-lifeorganicfarm2466]

I've watched many of these electrolysis video and this one is very good. The only thing I would add is that in addition to saying that the battery charger should be a simple one; you might say it should not be a smart battery with circuitry that detects weather a battery is bad.

[@DominicChineas]

This is true.. thats what I meant when i said bog standard.. just your basic average charger. it wont work with a smart one.

[@1pcfred]

Definitely don't want to be too smart with any of this. I thought the presenter tried to make the point to use a "bog standard charger" in the video. But I'm sure there's folks that have no idea what that means. No one likes to weather a bad battery either. Whether or not we have a choice sometimes is not the case though. Synonyms. Ya just gotta hate them. Or is it spell checkers that can't take context into account?

[@customer7903]

As others have said always enjoy your enthusiasm with whatever you do on The Repair Shop and really glad to have found your KZbin Chanel - many thanks for passing on your experience in a simple manner. 👍🏻👍🏻 😜😂

[@trentyoung1135]

Best tutorial for electrolysis on KZbin. Explained very well.

[@emrysparry7535]

Excellent, used your method to remove light rust from the surface of the disc brake rotors on a 40yr old TR7. Worked brilliantly! No deformation and a clean 'true' surface. Many thanks.

[@DominicChineas]

That’s so good to hear! Thank you for the feedback!

[@Vikingjoineryworks]

Very informative and interesting video Dom. Would you ever consider doing a video explaining or offering a beginners guide to welding? Loving your channel mate.

[@DominicChineas]

I will do this next!

[@Vikingjoineryworks]

@@DominicChineas Awesome. Can’t wait

[@brettvernon4618]

yes I’d love that too!

[@sjbolton72]

Restoring rusted parts using electrolysis or chemical baths (not covered in this video) also somewhat restores the smoothness of the surfaces. The rust is like a minute shrub that grows from a tiny scratch or pit and builds itself up while doing very little surface damage to the item. So not only does the tool end up looking better but often functionality is restored too. For example rusty nuts and bolts can once again be used for their purpose with the need to machine the surfaces. I have a small tub expressly for chemical soaking similar to electrolysis that eats away the rust (iron oxide) leaving a black carbon residue that a gentle brush scrub under water removes. Its a great addition to your home workshop to have something like this permanently on a shelf ready to go giving you a way to save those fiddly fixtures that you want to keep original on a project (or are impossible to replace with modern alternatives). A chemical bath that isnt corrosive or fume toxic (like an acid bath) will just keep in a plastic tub for years and years if it has a lockdown lid. Likewise an electrolysis bath you can make in a suitable sized tub to fit then inside a larger one with lockdown lid so it doesnt evaporate away and you can have at the ready always with a single cable out to power source. A simple rust removal solution is just invaluable for every restoration workshop. Just ensure you dont leave items in them for longer than overnight without taking them out, brushing and rinsing in water to check. The longer you leave them the more chance you have of the processes damaging. So leave, check by cleaning the carbon off under running water then dry to check progress of rust removal, repeat as many times as you need to get rid of the rust. Over time and use you get to be able to guess how effective the result will be and how long it might take. You may be able to use this as a bit of a local home business and it requires very little starting costs or running costs. Use the waiting time to learn how to sharpen garden tools and lawnmower blades which will go well with rust removal service for restring saws, axes, shovel etc. Get your eletrolysis terminals (positive/negative) properly sorted by testing with rusty nails first, some small electronics power packs can be confusing as to which wire the positive is in and which is negative. So always test first with rusty nails when building your own setup, big or small. Remember this is DC electricity NOT AC.

[@glen9965]

Ah the wonder of science. Great tutorial Dom as usual.

[@dmolloyx]

Seen a million and one restoration vids......and nobody has explained the process like this........great stuff.....there is always some who will need the fools guide......so thank you for making this video.........answered a lot of questions I always felt to like much of a newb to ask on other sites....top man....keep up the content, you wont believe the impact it will have on the unspoken amateurs 🙂

[@kieranfoster902]

Great video Dom. When I'm teaching my chemistry students how to remember the difference between anode and cathode I use the idea of a "black cat". The black terminal is the cathode.

[@fluxington]

Very useful!

[@karenripley3678]

I always remember that the 't' in 'cathode' has a dash, a negative sign, through it's upright. 'Anode', of course, doesn't.

[@kieranfoster902]

Nice. I also use me+al and non - metal for reminding the kids about positive and negative ions.

[@kenl16]

@@karenripley3678 The A in Anode has a dash across it.

[@BigPowerAL]

Great video. My Dad used regular household white vinegar to remove rust from old tools as welll. He soaked them over night. No power needed.

[@joesinakandid528]

Dom - a possible task if you so choose to take it up - electroplating. Sort of the opposite of removing the rust and quite often a useful tool in the box for restoration projects. - Joe - in the US

[@DominicChineas]

Nice idea!! Ok I’ll look into it, it will need some special equipment, it if your up for it I will try make it happen!

[@bloong1080]

Electroplating is exactly what he is doing in this video, no need to do a separate one!

[@Bonzman]

Hi Dom Love all your work especially on the repair shop. Years ago I knew a bloke in my town that cleared old tools, nuts, bolt, ect. Cleaned them up and sold them, he eventually bought a shop and it became the best hardware shop in town, recycling is nothing new. 👍

[@robinblueqube]

Oh Yes you little beauty, you have a channel! I'm in! love you on the Repair shop.

[@martinsams1518]

Hello Dom Just found your channel, always enjoyed your work on Repair Shop I build Gauge 1 model locos etc and after soldering I used a diluted sulphuric acid to clean the parts, sulphuric acid has become difficult to find, have you any experience or knowledge of electrolysis cleaning of brass/copper parts?

[@garypolotian9995]

Great video Dominic, old tools are always worth restoring because they were so well made compared to what is available these days 😉

[@stevewilliams1054]

Dominic great set of videos, I have subscribed, but having spent 30 years working on the site that makes Soda Ash and Bicarb I had to make this point. Sodium Bicarbonate is made from Sodium Carbonate but as you have found out the two products react differently. Very simply the sodium carbonate is redissolved and passed to the top of a carbonating tower, here carbon dioxide gas is introduced at the bottom of the tower under pressure and passes through the solution. This produces a sodium bicarbonate crystal which is then filtered and dried. But yes, don’t use bicarb use soda ash as it is more chemically reactive and a stronger alkali. As an aside if you put your solution, once you have finished with it, into a pan (having filtered out the rust particles) and boil off the water, you will be left with soda crystals also known as washing soda.

[@richardwhatton1249]

Excellent video Dom, I will certainly have a go at it. Kind regards, Richard.

[@DominicChineas]

Thanks Richard! Glad to hear it, I hope it works well for you

[@garliccharge]

12:10 Dom makes an instant coffee then, 12:14 stands right next to a big fancy coffee machine in the back of a defender (nice defender by the way!) 😸 Love it! Also love the channel! Really like your style Dom. 👍

[@thomashverring9484]

Well spotted 😂

[@philholman8520]

Thanks you so much for sharing your thoughts, knowledge and experience with us.👍✌️🤗 You really are a special chap!!

[@jtucker7209]

Husband impressed. Said that’s how he does his- minus the English Wheel part-obvs. I found it really interesting as well. Great sharing. Generous of you 💚

[@paulmullen745]

Great to see you are now on you tube

[@rossi6113]

Dom you're a legend mate. I love the Repair Shop and can only stand back in amazement at the skill and talents you and the team have. Keep up the great work and thanks.

[@declansweeney1969]

Thanks Dom, a great explanation of the process. Can't wait to try it out on a few bits.

[@propfella]

I set up the same type of cleaning unit a few years ago. A friend had a large box of assorted tools under his work bench in his garage and his wife opened the window to "air" the garage out and left it open. There was a torrential downpour and his box was filled with water. A year later he pulled the box out to sort out his tools for a garage sale and found them rusted together into a large mass. He classed them as useless and asked me if I wanted them. 2 weeks later I'd run all the tools and many drill bits through my electrolysis bath and I'm now the proud owner of a complete collection of rust free hand tools. All with a beautiful black sheen. I even discovered two American shifters made in 1906, now fully working. The only downside of the routine was the mess following heavy use of the bath. It leaves a very nasty looking scum on the surface which stains anything it touches. I wouldn't advise putting this down the drain, probably best to dispose of somewhere in the garden. You can get a slight tingle if you dip your bare hands in the solution, but it's not enough to cause discomfort. Don't forget, some chargers use 24 volts and 12 volts, I advise 12 volts for safety reasons. After the de-rusting and cleaning your tools, I give them a light spray of thin oil (WD-40 is OK) and a wipe with a rag, this will protect the tools from rusting again. One final tip, never cover the bath during use, hydrogen is produced (the fizz) and with those electrical connections a spark may cause it to go boom. Oh yes, any chromed tools will lose their shine, but don't worry. the resulting black sheen looks even better. :-)

[@johnhaughey101]

Thanks for explaining that Dom. Whenever I’ve seen this done, I’ve never understood it !!! Until now....

[@chrischisnall6595]

Thoroughly enjoyed this very satisfying video, thank you. It's great to see something being restored rather than thrown away only to buy another! I can't wait to have a go myself.

[@sunpointstudio4472]

Any chance of a video about electroplating? Seems it would be similar.

[@1pcfred]

This is basically electroplating the rust onto your sacrificial anode. That's what's going on. So if you really want to plate you reverse the polarity and use a metal you want to transfer. Sometimes the material to plate is in the solution though. Something similar to this is how copper is refined too. They dump the ore into the solution and plate the metal onto anodes.

[@chrisvaughan159]

Agreed. Looking forward to many more episodes!. Thanks Dom!

[@DominicChineas]

Awesome, thank you!

[@yfelwulf]

I use the 2.5amp power supply off an old printer 🖨 worked well on cast Iron Dutch Ovens (Cooking Pots)

[@125brat]

I thought Dutch Ovens was a game 🤣🤣

[@darranphelps5740]

Great video. Just what I needed. Knew about using electrolosis to remove rust but didn't know what the elecrolite was; or which way round the terminals should be. Great idea cable tying the steel to the box. I have just hung it in the electrolite on a piece of wood when I tried similar jobs (removing silver from photochemistry). Will definately be doing this as I have a few tools that got damp in an old garage.

[@robtedds4887]

WoW already been looking around my workshop for old stuff to try... Cheers matey.

[@DominicChineas]

Good luck!

[@MaithriSanitgun]

Very cool, your enthusiasm is charming and makes the video better, keep that!

[@moking8095]

I remember using this same process 70 years ago. Isn't it strange how reinvention takes place at regular intervals!

[@mrmyorky5634]

Yep, we used the same process but in my case it was 60 years ago. We also used many other different processes using chemicals that would be strictly illegal today. We used to heat rock Sulfur in an open pan over an open flame until it liquified and use it as a glue/gap filler to fix steel shafts into wooden rollers. We also had an open molten cyanide hardening bath to give a hard surface to steel components and for many years we also had an open Tricoethylene degreasing tank the operator of which was always seriously affected by the fumes by lunchtime. In our ignorance we assumed that he was just a secret drinker combined with being a bit crackers anyway.

[@nutrock87]

I’ve been waiting over a year for the carboots to start up again so I can get some rusty vintage tools to restore. Now I’ve got another method to add to the process. Thanks Dom.

[@DominicChineas]

Ill be there at the bootsales as soon as they open!! Ill try to leave you some tools I promise haha

[@nutrock87]

@@DominicChineas haha thanks I guess ☺️

[@Mr2at]

Watched the full video and wasn't disappointed. :)

[@pgVeritas]

Dom, I believe the need for longer immersion is actually due to the surface area to volume ratio....if I remember my chemistry stoichemetrics (reaction rate calculations properly). The greater the surface area to volume ratio, the quicker the reaction will occur. Seemingly perversely, the smaller the substrate the larger the sa/vol ratio. This is why fine powdered sugar dissolves quicker than sugar cubes. The point at which no more of a substance will dissolve is called the saturation point. Once you go beyond this, the solution is called a “super-saturated solution”.

[@martynflynn8368]

Wow, I am impressed. This has popped into my feed at the most opportune time as I need to try this on some motor cycle parts from a recently acquired bike. Subbed.

[@jbalmyetsh7095]

Hi Dom, I've just discovered this channel and really enjoyed the easy and understandable way of explaining to the layman. I liked the fact that you used everyday objects that many will have lying around. You asked about other suggestions. Personally, I'd love to see videos on different types of electroplating.

[@WESTHAMRUSS]

That's amazing! Thank you Dom.

[@rabidwasp]

Excellent video - Thanks! One thing to mention on the safety side is that the bubbles do contain hydrogen, so there is a potential risk of an explosion if this is done in a small, unventilated space. Ideally either work outdoors or leave a window open...

[@DominicChineas]

Sorry your totally right, I should have mentioned to use it in a well ventilated space..

[@bengullen]

Nice one Dom, very useful information, deffo gonna give this a try 👍😎

[@DominicChineas]

I think you’ll be impressed!

[@tiggywinkle1000]

Brilliant video, Dom! I gave this method a try over the weekend. Tried it on a big heavy 3/4" drive Whitworth 1 1/4" socket made by Stahlwille. (I would point out that it is not safe to do this on chrome plated items, because of the risks). It worked very well. Then tried it on an antique 'Primus' stove spanner, that was extremely rusty and pitted - the maker's name and 'Sweden' were illegible. But after just 30 minutes, and then a couple on the wire wheel, the part looked like new. Also, the flame wind shield, that I had given up on because a wire brush would have destroyed this delicate part, was also restored. I had made some alterations to the circuit arrangements used in the video, by using a metal tank, salvaged from an old deep fryer after chucking the electric element part away. This served as the anode, and increases the overall current density, leading to much greater efficiency. To limit current from the 12V supply, I inserted a 21W, 12V car light bulb in series. Any shorts between the job and the anode are thus rendered harmless and will not damage the charger which has a maximum rating of 4 Amps.

[@DominicChineas]

Amazing!! Thanks so much for the update I’m so glad it worked for you, Really nice idea on the modifications, depending on the size/shape of what your doing you can get creative! Thanks again

[@stevewatts3502]

You can get washing Soda from Tesco. It's a green plastic bag, like a bag of suger, usually passed all the washing powder stuff, top shelf... about a quid. *edit, can't spell sugar.

[@dogsnads5634]

Soda Crystals, sold in all main supermarkets or Wilkinsons.

[@nidavis]

You can also bake baking soda in the oven for a couple hours at 350F and transform it into sodium carbonate.

[@sonicmistress]

Or just use Salt as an alternative.

[@robbieclark5957]

I gave this a go on a project that I had lying around for ages... Worked brilliant!! Then charger blow up!!.. Very, very old charger... I will get an other.... Brilliant video Dom! Keep it up mate, 👍

[@DominicChineas]

Glad it worked out!! Thanks!

[@napalmpig3772]

I've done etching with salt water, does this do the same thing when using sodium carbonate instead of salt?

[@oneeyedphotographer]

Yes.

[@rustygear9370]

Salt is Sodium Chloride, it gives the same result with the exception that while using sodium carbonate, the process is relatively clean, with salt, it may produce Ferric Chloride (that gives the green coloration), which is a relatively harmful product for the environement., especially when flushed down sink. The main pupose of dissolving a large amount of any salt in the tank water is to increase conductivity of the water for electricity, you can use any salt, considering that carbonates tend to not react with iron.

[@oneeyedphotographer]

@@rustygear9370 Sodium chloride is a salt. Sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulphate are also salts. I'd be wary of some of the byproducts, chlorine gas could be emitted, I have used electrolysis to produce chlorine. You don't want much of that around, it's toxic and relatively dense. Ferric chloride is highly corrosive, it's used for etching circuit boards.

[@napalmpig3772]

@@rustygear9370 That's exactly what I was wondering. I always thought it produced chlorine gas, which I'm not a big fan of breathing. The good thing about salt is it seems to make the etch very aggressive. I used iron sulphate and it seemed to do nothing in the same time compared to the salt. Will definitely try sodium carbonate.

[@MauriatOttolink]

Very useful video. Whilst it's alway wise to switch off the power, you're even wiser to use only 12 volt which you will not even feel if you touch it! Your Ace process could also be done using a small lead acid battery (even a big one which would take longer to discharge) BUT , a BIG BUT. You must include a small fuse in the circuit (or one in EACH leg) as close to the battery as possible.Accidents do happen and 5 amp fuses would protect you and the gear. Of course that pro charger will be fused anyway. Thanks for the video.

[@sarahbradbeer7982]

That's a nice hammer by Cornelius Whitehouse of Cannock 😊👍

[@sminkypinky4457]

1980, ex-MOD, judging by the crowsfoot

[@garypautard1069]

I remember Whitehouse hammers they manufactured excellent drywall / roofers hammers during the 80s.

[@patsyrussell5039]

Fantastic skill to have I love when your working on The Repair Shop what a pair of skilled hands you have

[@stephendriver5853]

Brilliant job. Marvellous.

[@bnelson313braveheart]

Awesome way to bring old tools to life. Thanks!

[@projectmayhemUK]

cool idea, I wonder if I can use this on my car

[@stillratz]

Got a swimming pool big enough?

[@marklmansfield]

Be careful , some old cars the only thing holding them together is the rust .

[@fasteddie4145]

I used it extensively in the restoration of my '71 Chevelle.....

[@jeffreysmick821]

@@fasteddie4145 How did you do that?

[@darranphelps5740]

Don't forget to remove the oil before putting it in the pool. :-)

[@Workshopfriend]

Great video Dominic. Very practical. Hope to try this out myself. Thank you for the inspiration.

[@tonystamp2708]

Loving these videos you're doing, Dom.

[@R.Craig.Collins]

Over the years, I have slowly built up my basic woodworking skills and collection of tools... now you have me thinking of looking at metal. Thanks... I think (could be an expensive diversion, but a bit at a time and I may be able to pull this off)

[@charlesbradshaw1285]

You should mention that the bubbles are hydrogen from the cathode and oxygen from the anode. You have a potentially explosive mixture if in a confined space. You must therefor be sure to provide adequate ventilation.

[@jimdearborn2539]

Caution: There is also the issue of Hydrogen embrittlement.

[@piecetoyou8285]

Dominic, Iv used this method a few times, works great, But before I used electrolysis method I used molasses, the cattle feed from farmers supplies, I had a cobblers leather machine with several cogs ,rollers.spindles hand wheel etc weighed about 60 lbs dam heavy for its size,about 18"x 18"x 8"rusted and stuck so bad, Filled a container with a ratio about 100-1 water /molasses can`t quite remember now, Left in the mixture for two weeks,it does start to smell and brown froth appears on top,as the mixture eats at the rust,just like your method if left, When pulled out complete rust free , it did darken the metal parts as most wast cast iron or cast steel .everything freed up, I gave it a quick rinse and light scotch pad in soapy warm water dried of with heat gun then a blend of bees wax mixed with oil, kept rust free for 4 years, but rust came back after the 4 years left in a damp shed,not used and not covered up, American vintage body repairers have been known to use molasses for years for big rusty panels,like car bonnets. I think on the web it states chelating agents in the molasses mainly cyclic hydroxyamic acids are effective to chelate iron that makes it soluble, but can damage other metals so use only for iron rust not all corrosion, I have used it on all my tools as well and they seemed fine, But I am sure when dipping cast parts into this molasses stuff it can weaken them due to it absorbing the carbons from the cast,something like that I read, Do not get the fermented molasses on the skin it stinks and the smell lasts on the skin loll,

[@alexsmall5732]

I did this with some NOS control arms for an '88 IROC and it worked like a charm. I used a PC power supply for the power supply.

[@vineshdevchander1894]

Such a down to earth way of presenting. Was an absolute pleasure watching AND then doing it the very same day... my tools from a recent swop shop are now beautiful and ready for use Thank you!!!... You just got a new subscriber!!!!

[@focus19551]

Brilliant and brilliant!

[@markwillmer6382]

Nice one Dom, great to salvage old tools and keep them going for another few decades.

[@hutworx]

A rusty hammer is still a usable hammer 😉 in fact the more you use it the lest rusty it is. Also I use salt in electrolysis not necessarily any better but the missus has lots of it in the cupboard 😆 And as a wee tip when you remove anything from electrolysis and have cleaned it, you need to rustproof it ASAP as it will rust again very quickly. Great video though👍

[@DominicChineas]

Yeah Salt works, just don’t use her best posh salt!! Haha! Depends what your using the hammer for to be honest.. you wouldn’t let a hammer in that condition anywhere near a sheet of aluminium for panel beating.. thanks for the comment!

[@brigstowe8500]

Be VERY careful if you use common salt as the gas given off is chlorine which is very very poisonous.

[@1pcfred]

A clean hammer is better to use though. No amount of use is going to get a rusty hammer as clean as I want it to be either.

[@guloguloguy]

WOW!!! THANK YOU, FOR THIS DEMO! COULD THIS PROCESS BE USED, TO "ETCH" PATTERNS IN THE METAL PIECES, BY "MASKING" THE APPROPRIATE "PATTERNS", AND REVERSING THE POLARITY?!....

[@keithspraggs9338]

Great I have used phosphoric for over 35 years on motorbike and car maintenance this a cheaper effective alternative for parts that I soak . thanks a old dog can learn new tricks

[@neillpotts6019]

Nice easy to follow video. Thanks for posting it. 👍

[@jasonledger9467]

Thanks dom, now I know what to do on my next day off 👍

[@sandyt4343]

I’ve been doing this for years and it truly works wonders. I dug up some old single shive and double shive blocks buried in my yard that had probably been there since the 1890s They were frozen solid with rust and seemed beyond repair. I cooked them in the tub for about 4 days and when I took them out, the dirt and sand had dropped off them and after a good rinse the shives turned like they were just built. I washed them again and dried and painted them and they are like new with a good lubricant. It’s like magic