Replace Valve Cover Gaskets and Spark Plug Tube Seals on 2007 Honda Pilot

[@TravSprad]

I paid to have this done about a year ago, and enjoyed seeing the process, and understanding it better.

[@lmsdiy]

Hope it was helpful. I've now done it 3 times on a Honda Pilot. Becoming very efficient at it and about to do it on an Acura TL and a Honda Accord!

[@ThaPenh]

How much was the damage?

[@helpinghand2440]

One of the best videos I've seen in a while. You showed very clear details of your work. Impressive.

[@lmsdiy]

Thanks for the feedback! Much appreciated. 🙂

[@soundscape8036]

Thank you. The best video on the topic I’ve seen.

[@lmsdiy]

Thank you for the feedback and hope it was helpful!

[@chrisyoung2735]

That is a great video, super helpful, thank you!!

[@lmsdiy]

My pleasure!

[@33ad1]

Great Video, Great details. But its important for you to tell us if you are working on the J35A9 engine or the J35Z1. They have differences in the plenum gaskets and valve cover gaskets and the location of the Oil Spool Valve mechanism.

[@lmsdiy]

Excellent point and thanks for the feedback! My Pilot is engine model J35A9 and I’ve added that to the description of the video now as well. 🙂

[@33ad1]

@@lmsdiy . Thanks

[@euonymus1980]

The J35z1 does not have the intake "spacer"

[@jaymoney7968]

Seems a common problem wit these engines, word to to wise buy the better gaskets it'll party for itself in 10 thousand or so miles but I just bought a 201o oddesy wit the same problem all back cylinders facing the firewall all are soaked wit oil but someone must have fixed the frount one cuzz there dry an the gasket looks a different color,, Ii pulled the plugs an never seen that much oil in the sparkplug tube before on any car as bad as this engine, but luckily iys Easley fixed with patients lol an it also I trows so many codes like the stability control because the ecu shuts down the high reving of the motor to protect it , other then that as someone that has a ren second car now I got my parts getter an trailer puller, nice video also good to clean your intake manifold while ur in there an get a catch can , also if you can change out ur injectors to as well there boy much ì you buy then from a God place , anyways happy mottering

[@lmsdiy]

Thanks for the tip. Any suggestion on what brand to get for the tube seals? Straight from Honda or is there a good quality aftermarket version that you suggest? Thanks.

[@euonymus1980]

Nice video. How long did this job take you? Thanks!

[@lmsdiy]

Thanks, and hope it was helpful for you. I would say it's done in an afternoon. But if you haven't done a valve/lash adjustment, you might want to stretch it out to a relaxing and enjoyable day and get that done too while the valve covers are off.

[@euonymus1980]

@@lmsdiy ok. Thanks!

[@thepiecesfit5049]

I don't know why everyone is cutting or hammering the valve cover bolt washer seals. I removed all mine just pulling them off with my hand. Installation used a little sil-glyde at a slight angle and they went in by hand didn't break a single one. I'd also recommend if you're spending a few hours doing this job, just use the OEM gasket kits, will run you around $70 USD for two. These third party gaskets don't last as long and I just removed one that was falling apart.

[@lmsdiy]

The rubber gets hard and doesn't slide off, even with lubrication. I've seen both approaches, so I know what you mean. Thanks for the suggestion about going with OEM.

[@KENDALLSMITH-ms2uz]

Thanks for posting this. I followed your video and replaced the front valve cover gasket and it’s not leaking now… BUT… now when I start it, it idles normal for about a minute and then the idle bounces between 1,000-2,000 RPM constantly and doesn’t stop. I assumed I forgot an electrical connection somewhere but I’ve triple checked and all the hoses and connections are accounted for. I read it could be air bubbles in the coolant (I did spill some coolant from the hose off the throttle body) but I topped it off after. I don’t even know how I would bleed the coolant with it Idleing like that. I also read that it could be an air leak, possibly from the intake hose? It’s old and the part where it mates to the throttle body is a little beat up. It’s never had any idle issues until I did the valve cover though. Does the 2007 EX have an IACV? It was a little dirty in the plenum, a little worse than yours but nothing crazy and didn’t have that issue before. Maybe something with the PCV? It’s not throwing a code. Any thoughts? Thank you!

[@KENDALLSMITH-ms2uz]

The only thing I didn’t do is disconnect the battery. I’ve also read about an “idle learn procedure” … could be it maybe?

[@lmsdiy]

Hey there, there are a lot of possibilities to this one and diagnosing can be much more difficult than following instructions to replace a part. I always recommend getting an expert to have a look if it’s not something you are comfortable with. Does this happen after a few seconds or minutes, or after the engine has warmed up completely? I can suggest a few things to consider: First, do you have any new check engine codes? If so, put a scanner on it and see what it’s telling you. If not, you probably need to focus in more on “what’s changed”. I know you triple checked but maybe unplug and plug back in each connector and hose to ensure you have a good connection/seal. There was a particular hose that was disconnected underneath the throttle body that you may want to double check was plugged back in (it’s hard to see and easy to miss). One key you said was that you spilled some coolant on the throttle body. That could cause the throttle body to stick and it may not be operating properly which could definitely cause this. You could consider giving the throttle body a clean and do an idle relearn. Here a link to how I did that on my Chevy Silverado so you’ll want to find one for the Honda Pilot): kzbin.info/www/bejne/qme1hqmblN6Zo6Msi=EmeUsWD5ZXo8k2hg It’s totally possible that something completely unrelated to your gasket replacement job went wrong coincidentally, at the same time, and that would make it tougher to troubleshoot, but I would begin with checking codes, retracing my reinstallation steps, a throttle body clean, and possibly idle relearn. Best of luck!

[@KENDALLSMITH-ms2uz]

Thanks for the reply! You’re awesome, man. I’ll pull the throttle body off today and clean it up and re do the connections. It idles just fine for about 45 - 60 seconds and then proceeds with the rapid RPM bouncing - I’ve only let it run like that for about another minute because it was late at night and loud and I was also concerned about damaging the engine. I suppose I could have knocked a vacuum line loose but I’m surprised with the lack of a CEL. If the throttle body was stuck, or sticking shortly after start up, wouldn’t that cause more of a consistent either high or low idle? Thanks again, man. Have a great weekend!

[@KENDALLSMITH-ms2uz]

Could it also be the PCV? I cleaned it with brake parts cleaner and shook it and listened as you did and I heard it moving in there.

[@lmsdiy]

@@KENDALLSMITH-ms2uz if the throttle body is “sticky” not stuck, it may be having trouble trying to open it the right amount. So it tries to open it more but because it’s sticky it then opens too much or too little and then it tries to adjust it to open or close it more and then vice verse and back and forth. After checking connections and hoses for the obvious, I would clean gently clean the throttle body and check again but be sure to let the engine warm up to operating temperature. If that still doesn’t resolve it then an idle relearn. If that doesn’t resolve it you might need to take it to an expert for proper diagnosis. It’s tough to troubleshoot online much more than that, unfortunately. A sensor issue, a hose, air or vacuum issue, something else stuck or partially blocked. Something obvious if you know what to look for, something simple… literally this could go on for a week.

[@HH-gn9qt]

I can speak from experience the rear spark plug tubes seals are extremely easy to damage upon reinstalling. I think it is the awkward angle caused by the wiring harness. It doesn’t allow for the proper angle and the tubes tear the seals. I am going on my 3rd attempt and it is extremely frustrating. I even went with OE seals and lubed with silicone. Still had the number 3 cylinder seal tear. Any advice would be appreciated.

[@lmsdiy]

You are so right!!!! 😩

[@HH-gn9qt]

@@lmsdiy I commented on your other video, but I figured I would comment here too. I am sure there are others out there that are having the same issue. The current theory as to the reason the seals are tearing is because the seals are not being driven into the cover enough to bottom out. If the seals are driven flush with the cover it still leaves a couple mm before it bottoms out--meaning the tubes must pass though the seal (possibly causing the tear). A diagram in the service manual supports the theory that the tube should just touch the top of the tube and be forced to pass through it..

[@HH-gn9qt]

So I am commenting on this thread because the video is actually on the tube seals....basically I completed my third shot at replacing the tube seals last weekend and I just checked the spark plugs for leakage yesterday. I am very sad to say that the spark plugs still had some oil residue on them. To say I am bummed out is an understatement. I was extremely careful this last time around, using my thumbnail to push the seal down around the tube as the cover was just sitting in place. I honestly don't know how it could be done any gentler. This issue doesn't seem to be as bad as before when there were at least a couple cylinders with an obvious portion of the seal lip hanging up over the tube like before--however the spark plugs are certainly not dry now. I assume over the weeks and months oil will accumulate no matter how small the leak is. Right now I am thinking it maybe the slight scoring I left on the valve cover itself when I removed some of the the seals. Based on some other youtube videos, I pried with a flathead screwdriver between the seal and valve cover. I used a regular sized flathead that left some slight scoring before I moved to a small flathead that seems to leave much fewer marks on the valve cover. Do I throw some new valve covers at the problem? I just don't know as this point. When you did the pry bar removal of the seals did you nick up the valve cover at all?

[@HH-gn9qt]

Also, can you share how the car drove with the spark plugs completely soaked in oil? I know it can't be good but I am wondering if this is a "leave you stranded" situation or "I can get home and clean out the spark plugs" situation. Obviously I am thinking about just leaving it be at this point.....

[@lmsdiy]

@@HH-gn9qt damn. I’m bummed to hear that too. I found the pry bar approach was the cleanest and easiest method and it didn’t score up the cover tube holes. But I had tried other options I saw before that which did cause some chips in the valve cover the first time I did it which was quite a while ago now. I think it was and flathead…can’t remember exactly. Let me ask around with some service techs that work on Honda regularly and see if they have any tips.

[@tykendrick800]

The new seals won't slide over the spark plug tubes. This is driving me crazy. I'll try heating the the new seals. If that don't work I'm gonna burn this fkn car up

[@lmsdiy]

Ugh, frustrating! Maybe try seating them into the valve cover more? Any luck?

[@tykendrick800]

​@@lmsdiy I destroyed all 6 seals last night. heating the new ones with the heat gun prior helped them slid on