Replacing a 30 amp 120 volt shore cord end plug.

Don't risk a fire with a bad shore cord plug. In this video I show you how the replace a 30 amp 120 VAC shore cord plug end. A step by step to saving your shore cord from the trash and making your shore power safer.
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[@donwilliams5806]

Good video except for the fact that you put the wires into the wrong side of the 'tighten-down' clamp. WTF.

[@Boatingzen]

I reviewed the video and I am not sure what you are talking about? The wires are inserted into the proper holes in the plug. If they are not inserted correctly the wires just fall out.

[@donwilliams5806]

Yes, the wire should be inserted into the left side (for a tightening screw) for any electrical work, although 'not' as critical for a 'clamp down' connection. If the wire is inserted into the left side it will be 'pulled in' when the screw is tightened and 'pushed out' if it is put on the right side (for a right-hand screw, which most are) and this should be just 'standard practice' whenever tightening down electrical screws, clamps, etc. to keep things consistent. (although some may also say "consistant" proving, sorta', that sometimes it is a matter of perspective.)

[@paulfinne4156]

The video shows applying di electric grease to the electrical contact sufaces of the wire and the plug. Why would anyone put an insulating grease between two conductors. Make the connection first then put the grease on to protect it.

[@44kebeck]

Probably a slip of the tongue but Ospho is phosphoric acid. Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid.

[@Boatingzen]

Ahhh you caught me and indeed you are right. Thanks for correcting me on that.

[@CaptJimBoyd]

This video is excellent! I replaced two plugs in about 45 minutes. Thanks Captain!

[@Boatingzen]

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the positive feedback!

[@michaelpeters5056]

You spent a bunch on replacement plugs, and still have an adapter with corroded conductors. Demonstrating replacement steps still applies, but you should have recommended throwing this adapter away in real life.

[@Boatingzen]

This is a backup adapter mainly used for this demonstration but I still use it. I do not like to throw things away simply because they are not shinny. We as a society need to work on recycling stuff. Thanks for the comments

[@michaelpeters5056]

Thanks for the reply Wayne. I’m intentionally conservative around shore power cords. I use tinned wire whenever available, and discard corroded, non-tinned wire. Sometimes shiny means more than just pretty.

[@anthonymarino4260]

Michael Peters no good will not last long

[@salvor1]

I'm surprised Marineco -'the marine cable company' doesn't use tin plated copper -which is the give a way for marine cable. Using acid is iffy in my opinion. It will capillary up the wire that may not wash out. I'd rather mechanically remove.

[@mrseanpride6449]

Should of explained the polarity from where you screw the cable to what’s on the front.

[@kennethlukes1897]

Captain Wayne, Some people understand HOW to do something, many less people know how to explain a process to another. You are a natural teacher. Another comment, I do not care for instructional videos with no narrative. The reason being is you forced to interpret through one’s eyes ONLY. You gave away about a dozen AWESOME tips/tricks based on your experience to ensure the student is successful straight away. 🙏

[@sailingfromsamsara9972]

Glad you took the time to make this. I have been struggling with either to toss some cords or repair. Repair it will be. Now to find the fittings.

[@ohcaptainmycaptain7476]

Thanks for an outstanding video/tutorial, I can now more confidently salvage some cords!

[@Boatingzen]

Glad to help!

[@scottcates]

Muriatic acid leaves chlorides behind on the work piece. Rarely is it a good way to remove corrosion as it quickly leads to accelerated oxidation.

[@Hondacber]

I am so sorry for the comment that was left on here. The next door neighbors kid was on my computer and I remember watching your video and I left it on my screen and he commented on this video. I have removed the comment.

[@Hondacber]

I had a talk with my neighbor and he admitted he typed the message and is now GROUNDED. Thank you for bringing that comment to light. I will keep watching your videos as I'm into RV's and anything to do with Camping and camping equipment. I'm into a lot of solar power systems to.

[@johnpalma7265]

So what happens if there's no color coding on the l5 plug ,just put the black wire into any one of the 3 prongs?

[@Boatingzen]

That would be dangerous at best. The pin with the bent tab is ground or green, the wider pin is black and the smaller white.

[@jamesblunt2268]

Very nice, really helped me, why is this yellow, My plug had failed. My boat from 2008 has a blue one. In the end I decided to replace the whole cable as mine originally was blue and adding a yellow plug at the end would have looked awful!

[@Boatingzen]

Honestly I have never seen a blue shore cord. I wonder if it was marine rated?

[@franktartan6808]

Why would you coat and smear the dielectric grease into the strands? It is an insulator.

[@jsb7546]

You wouldn't, I don't know why he's doing that tbh

[@ronwitcher7117]

thanks for sharing your knowledge to an ole timer !

[@svbarryduckworth628]

If you wiggle the wire a little bit during or after you tighten up the set screw/clamp you will find that it has worked itself a little looser. Keep wiggling the wire and tightening the screw until it stops squishing and stays tight so you can't tighten it any more. You don't need to tighten and push that hard on the screw if you do the wiggle and won't risk slipping and putting the screwdriver through your palm. I'm a commercial electrician and have installed thousands of cord ends. The neatest and biggest portable cord connector I've installed was 400A for a large conveyor belt on wheels which plugged into a series of other conveyor belts downstream. The connector was so big and heavy that it was all one person could do to lift it with the cord installed into it.

[@Boatingzen]

Thanks for the tip this makes sense as the idea is to fully compress the stranded wire. Thanks for watching and the feedback

[@yknot000]

I'm with you on repair rather than replacement of perfectly good copper wire. I'm trying to do this for my own 30A shore power cord. Here's the issue I'm running into one of the set screws just spins . It's the one for the black wire. I tried it without being able to snug it anyway and then tested it and all showed correct then I moved the cord around a bit and the tester showed an open ground wire. Is that because the black wire slipped loose? If so how can I get that screw to work properly? Can you please tell me what color wire is the ground green black or white? If it's the black then I know my problem is that set screw.

[@Boatingzen]

Not sure your issue with the ground. Green is ground and should have no voltage unless there is a fault, Black is hot and White is neutral. Some times if you run the screw too low it comes out os the fitting. Try taking it apart and make sure the screw is in the treads correct. Good luck

[@eltonkelley7215]

Hi Capt. Thanks for this video. I want to replace the female end of my 50amp (125/250V) power cord and noted you saying there are a few things slightly different. So, before I cut off the female end of my cord, could you please tell me what those differences are, and what I need to look out for. Thanks.

[@Boatingzen]

The difference is mainly that you have 2 hots and a ground/neutral that might be combined. Sort of depends if you have a 3 or 4 wire cord. Just pay attention to the color coding and you should be ok. Check the cord before plugging in to make sure it is wired correctly.

[@williambickley]

Lots of helpful tips. Went smoothly. I used a PVC pipe cutter to cut the cable. Thanks for a great video.

[@Boatingzen]

Good idea thanks

[@bchrisl1491]

L(locking)5(125V)30(30A)R(receptical)....L530R. So is it phosphoric or hydrochloric acid? If you see the truck in my icon, it uses marine grade electrical exclusively, including coax connectors as well as smaller phone and fiber connectors. Do you have any objection to the us of SJO cable for fabricating shore power cables. Currently my cables are old and the years of UV exposure has made the outer jacket brittle and it is cracking away from the inner conductors. Sea water has a very low resistance...... Good video.

[@Boatingzen]

You should only use cable rated for use as marine shore cord. It has a flexibility and oil resistance rating and a UV resistant outer jacket. The SJO cable does not have this. So I would say no do not use it. If the jacket on your current cables are cracked they should be replaced. Take the old cables to a metal recycler you may get enough to offset the higher cost on the marine cable. Thanks for the question and good luck with your project.

[@Boatingzen]

Marine cords should have a rating of SO, ST, or STO.

[@bchrisl1491]

Thanks for the reply .

[@davidpetrusewicz8172]

Your voice kind sounds like Mr. Rogers

[@Boatingzen]

LOL well I guess that is a nice compliment!

[@CapeCodParasailJetSk]

You helped me fix my power cord and saved me $100plus!

[@Boatingzen]

Glad it was helpful

[@ronwitcher7117]

thanks for sharing your knowledge to an ole timer !

[@Boatingzen]

You bet!

[@phitness2429]

Very good job and well done sir!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@Boatingzen]

Thanks

[@BrindiSea]

if you cut back a foot of cord only to find more corrosion when stripping the wire, does cleaning that little quarter inch section with ospho really do much (if the rest of the wire is still black inside)?

[@Boatingzen]

It helps with making sure there is good contact with the connectors. If the wire just has some surface blackness to it that is not bad but if it is really corroded it should be replaced. All copper gets a bit a of a patina on the surface. If a quick cleaning does not remove it the wire should be replaced. Thanks for pointing that out.

[@BrindiSea]

thanks for the quick reply!

[@anthonymarino4260]

cbrindisi no good

[@BigRed999]

list a link to the parts you are using

[@Boatingzen]

I may do that next time I do something like this. These part are available from any marine supply though.

[@fredvern4507]

Love your videos. Whu dielectric grease. As it is an insulator, would it add resistance to the connection? I've always wondered about that.

[@Boatingzen]

Dielectric greases, both improve insulation and preserve electrical connections. ... They also seal insulators, keeping moisture and contaminants out of insulation. They are as effective at preserving connections as "conductive" grease, and will not harm insulation.

[@jamesfoster9842]

Dielectric grease is non conductive. That's what dielectric means. Do NOT put it on electrical connections before your connect them! Dielectric grease is intended to be put on connections after the connection has been made to protect it from the elements. It does NOT aid conduction, it does exactly the opposite. Also, if you have corrosion on your conductors after cutting off a large section of the end then you should seriously consider replacing your cable. Electricity flows largely on the outside of conductors. They will still work but well be less efficient.

[@jsb7546]

​@@jamesfoster9842 Those problems you listed were the only problems I had with the video. Industrial electrician for 5 years. Was literally just looking for a video to send to my buddy so he could fix his cord end cuz I'm not there to show him, this video would just add more cuffision to him tbh.

[@AlazarYZ]

Thank you! That was really helpful.

[@Boatingzen]

Glad to be of help, thanks for the feedback

[@daveg.howell9892]

Excellent demo. Thanks

[@Boatingzen]

You are welcome