Replacing Front Wheel Brearings on Chrysler 300M (and similar cars) Part Two

[@Snowdaddypower]

Thank you very much for posting. Very informative.

[@michaelrehkop4817]

To dislodge the axle from the hub splines just use the wax technique. Furthermore you don't have to move the axle you can hit the back side of the hub assembly with a good heavy hammer (2lb ball peen or 3lb sledge) and it will come right out of there if you poor a bit of brake fluid around the housing where the hub assembly rests in the steering knuckle. Brake fluid works great as a catalyst . FYI only the caliper, brake pads, the rotor, the speed sensor and tie rod need to be loosened and removed . Like you said, remove the axle nut before removing the tire and when you're at the point you can remove those 3 bolts holding the hub assembly then whack the hub assembly from the back where the bolts were removed and it will walk right out. In my 35 years of automotive repairs, professionally I have replaced over 200 of these bearings on Chrysler 300's and many other makes and models others. They are a breeze.

[@PyroskyblasterWV]

Thank you. Now I jnow I can do this job myself.

[@OleToddster]

One I need to explain to people the ABS Sensor "Ring" on the back of the new hub bearing assembly units is usually not sold with the new unit part. But yes some are mostly with dealership OEM parts straight from make and brand manufacturer. To correct this problem when you remove the old hub bearing assembly unit remember to remove the old ABS Sensor "Ring" on the back of the hub bearing assembly unit with small chisel tool to remove the old ABS Sensor "Ring" and put it on the new one the back of the hub bearing assembly unit. Yes it is that easy to remove the ABS Sensor "Ring" and put it on the new unit. This video does not explain that in great detail.....! (Point of video explanation ABS Sensor "Ring" removal 3:06)

[@trr5291]

It took us a hour to beat the bearing off my intrepid. It was original and rusted on.

[@michaelrehkop4817]

Next time use brake fluid as a catalyst around the steering knuckle where the hub assembly goes through the knuckle and use map gas to heat the hub assembly up after having let the catalyst penetrate for 10 minutes. Then hit it from the back of the bearing driving it out of the steering knuckle. You can also do the candle wax trick ,Heat up the bearing with map (yellow can is same size as small blue propane tanks). Once its hot then take a candlestick run it around the aluminum and steel housings. The goal is to get the wax soak in and break up the rust and oxidization.

[@trr5291]

@@michaelrehkop4817 Thanks. The other 3 bearings are original so eventually I will have too replace them.

[@joshualiening1123]

@ fix yourself: nice job getting that wheel bearing off the spindle! how exactly did you do that? I have a 2002 300M Special and the front left bearing is really giving me shit because the whole hub wants to come out but will not release from the spindle because it has been sitting on there for so many years now!.....is there something you can recommend on how I could try to break the hub free from the spindle sir? Thanx so much and I really like how helpful your videos are!

[@fixyourself9163]

OK, I assume what you are saying is that your bearing/hub assembly will come out of the steering knuckle, but your axle shaft will not come out of the bearing/hub assembly. If this is the case, there are a few things you can do: 1)First of all, you are going to have to take a step backward to go a step forward. You are going to have to put the bearing:hub assembly back in the steering knuckle, then, get a bigger hammer and pound harder. Check out around the 1 minute mark of this video. Do exactly what I did, only pound harder. Sometimes these axle shafts come out easy, sometimes not. I was lucky, you weren't. Now, if you have to pound REALLY hard to get the axle to break free, you best use a piece of round steel bar around 8" long that will fit just inside of that axle nut, and pound on that. That will prevent you from damaging the threads on your axle. 2) Rent a puller. I'm pretty sure auto parts stores rent special pullers for exactly the situation you are in right now. 3) Do you also need to replace the CV axle on the side you are working on? You MAY be able to remove the bearing/hub assembly and CV axle shaft as one unit IF there is clearance to get the axle shaft through the steering knuckle. I don't know it there is, because I've never tried it, but it's worth a look to see if you can do so. If that doesn't work, you COULD also remove the steering knuckle along with the hub and axle. It MAY be easier to remove the axle from the bearing once you got the whole ball of wax out from under the car and in an unobstructed work area, but this involves taking apart a bunch of stuff you weren't counting on. I'd only do this as a last resort. 3) If all else fails, there's always fire. Even if your CV axle is good, a new one is only about $50. You could cut your CV axle with a cutting torch and remove the bearing/hub assembly with the end of the axle shaft you cut, off still in it. You're going to be tossing the bearing/hub assembly anyway, and chances are, you either need a new CV axle shaft or will need a new one relatively soon anyway. You got a maximum of $50 in additional parts on the line. Not too much to lose. I hope that one of these options will help you. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting.

[@michaelrehkop4817]

@@fixyourself9163 That is precisely what was said. Knock the bearing through and the axle stays where it it. Then with installing the new assembly once you have cleaned up the mating surfaces just install the hub. If you need to turn the axle at all that is what being in neutral will help you accomplish. . And no you dont need to back track. I've done hundreds of these things. Oh and the one thing you have never suggested is using map gas to heat up stubborn bolts, and the alxe to free it up from the hub assembly. Cutting the axle is not in the slightest bit necessary and its far too time consuming, Just take your time and keep heating and using lubricants to break the parts loose.

[@UFOzNoJoke]

hiii puppyyy.