Replacing Mainsprings in Clock Spring Barrels

[@BradfordNeedham]

An index for this video: 0:00 How to tell if a spring needs replacing. How to unwind a new spring. 3:17 Unwinding a new spring, using a heavy glove and a towel. 4:24 Oiling the new mainspring with Slick 50 lubricant and a small paint brush. 5:54 Winding the spring, putting on the spring capture ring, and unwinding into the spring capture ring. 7:11 Inserting the spring and capture ring into the barrel. 8:50 Winding the spring, removing the capture ring, and unwinding the spring into the barrel. 11:02 Attaching the barrel's cap. 12:42 How to buy springs of the right thickness. 14:50 Winding the old spring, inserting the capture ring, and unwinding the old spring into the capture ring. 17:04 Unwinding the old spring. Comparing the old and new springs. 18:40 Orienting the new spring to the barrel, so you wind it in the right direction. 19:05 Removing the third old spring. 21:24 Removing another new spring from its wire packaging. Comparing the new and old springs. 23:51 Cleaning and lubricating the new spring. 25:43 Inserting the winding rod into the new spring. 27:20 Winding the spring and unwinding it into the capture ring. 29:26 Inserting the spring and capture ring into the barrel. 30:29 Winding the spring, removing the capture ring, and unwinding the spring into the barrel. 31:39 Attaching the barrel's cap. 32:49 Showing the old springs and estimating how old they are.

[@dperry428]

Thank you, again.

[@ronaldwalker4047]

You are terrific..I'm a 78 year old newbie..Your a special man..Thanks for your help

[@dperry428]

Welcome to the old folks club. Can't believe I'll be 81 in 3 months.

[@jolly7728]

Great video! Thanks for showing the "good, bad, and the ugly" so we get to see the reality of doing a job like this.

[@johndix6101]

I love watching your videos and hearing your clocks doing there business

[@joncooke2450]

Hi Don, Many thanks for the update video. Yet another example of covering the "not so talked about" aspect of clock cleaning/reapair. Keep up th good work my friend.

[@squidben5780]

Nice demo and video. I can see everybody is afraid of those springs lol My next job will have to treat them with respect !!

[@zoyai]

Fascinating video sir. Thanks for posting, sharing your knowledge with us and making the world a better place .

[@dalefrank4149]

Very interesting, I love the sound of your clocks in the background, thanks for posting!

[@Coolmarsh1]

Thanks for your videos, it’s extremely fascinating watching you at work! 👍🇨🇦

[@johnmorgan5495]

Great to hear the clock chimes, ticking and the cukoo in the background x

[@josephstroud4932]

Great video. Thanks for sharing your great skills. Thanks for explaining so clearing. Enjoy and appreciate your help. Thanks

[@dperry428]

Glad it was helpful!

[@steveklopfer4780]

Nice old fella loves his hobby

[@dperry428]

Same love I had for it in 1968 when I was 25 years old and fixed my first clock.

[@اكرمالشمري-و3ب]

بوركت سيدي...هكذا كان ألاجداد يعانون كثيرا" في صيانة الساعه..

[@phillipneale6422]

Thank you for the excellent step by step process clearly explained. That spring winder looks expensive, guess I’ll have to go shopping !🇬🇧👍

[@dperry428]

Somewhat expensive and, apparently, very popular. Here's where I got mine: www.ronellclock.com/product/accu-mainspring-winder/

[@1dd434]

Great video, good learning, many thanks.

[@tasmaniandevil7610]

Wow not such a big deal . my hats off to you sir

[@kazsmith8422]

Hi Don, good video mate well explained

[@Truckguy1970]

A good face shield would also be recommended when working around main springs. OSHA probably requires them in the factories where the clocks are manufactured in the US

[@ПашаПитецкий]

Вітаю,ви є гарний вчитель 😊

[@dperry428]

Thank you.

[@TUCBER]

Bonjour. Thanks for your answer. I don't know what to do today. I can't open Barrel is not my job...So and after? Now, I cant' turn key on left and right. I see. Regards. I have to find a specialist. Salute.

[@gayle4s383]

What kind of mainspring winding tool would you suggest for a Big Ben & Baby Ben alarm & mainsprings?

[@dperry428]

As lightweight as those springs are, they can be dealt with by hand. No spring winder is needed.

[@jimfuente7699]

Hi dperry what main spring oil do you use great video on main Springs thank you

[@dperry428]

This one: www.amazon.com/Slick-50-43712012-Supercharged-Protectant/dp/B0016GXOXW It's a favorite of a number of clock repair people.

[@jimfuente7699]

@@dperry428 thank you

[@superguitarras111]

mr perry do you have any video about the repair barrel hood broken ?

[@dperry428]

I don't understand the question. "repair barrel hood broken"??? Do you mean broken barrel hook, the part on which the hole in the spring catches? If that's what you're looking for, here is another person's video doing the repair. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2nVkGWwqsyUqMk

[@superguitarras111]

@@dperry428 thanks

[@khossossykhossossy7955]

Great video as usual. I have just cleaned and serviced Hermle 1050-020 triple chime. It works great but the chiming part is slow. Hammers are not dragging and everything is clean and oiled. I had run it for a week without the hammers before I put everything together and it ran fine. It sounds like it needs to be wound up and sluggish. I am suspecting that the chiming mainspring is weak and tired. Does a tired mainspring cause a slow chiming? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[@dperry428]

Yes, but have you also checked for worn pivot holes?

[@khossossykhossossy7955]

@@dperry428 Thank you for your reply. I've checked the pivot holes and they are not worn at all. The mainspring size is barely twice the size of the barrel that's why I thought it could be the reason. It works fine without the chiming mechanism though. I guess triple chime movements lots of power to drive those hammers. Thanks a lot.

[@superguitarras111]

hi, i have an old gustav becker. the mainspring must have been there for about 100 years. remove the two mainsprings, clean them and lubricate them. the clock runs very well until on the third day about the mainspring of the chime becomes lazy to start turning. I removed the hammer and it walked a little better until inevitably on the 4th day it begins to fail. My question is: is there any trick to make the mainspring regain some strength or will I inevitably have to change it? thanks master

[@dperry428]

Yes, the spring needs to be replaced.

[@medford7102]

HI GREART VIDEO BUT WHAT DO YOU DO IF THERE IS NO CUT OUT ON THE CAP TO OPEN AND ACCESS THE SPRING

[@dperry428]

You never use the cutout to open the cap as it risks bending and distorting it. With the cap facing upward, rap the downward facing arbor sharply on a piece of wood. The cap will pop off.

[@only1stefan]

what oil can i use for the mainspring. thanks

[@dperry428]

The favorite the last few years with many repair people is "Slick 50 - 1 Lube". Or, you can purchase mainspring grease from a supply house timesavers.com/search.html?q=mainspring+grease

[@luger9774]

Quick question so I have a bulova mantle clock that is overwound if you replace the spring would it fix it??

[@dperry428]

There's no such thing as an overwound spring. It can be so dry that it will not unwind, but it is not overwound. The only way to evaluate a spring is to remove it from the barrel, clean and lubricate it and also check to see if it is "tired". It should unwind to at least 2 1/2 times larger than the diameter of the barrel.

[@luger9774]

@@dperry428 Yeah it's been forgotten for 5 years. My goal is to try and bringing it back to life it's a sweet clock. Me and my dad will try to investigate more

[@khossossykhossossy7955]

Great Video! What size is Hermle"s mainspring. Time and strike has number 40 on the barrel and chime has number 41 Wondering what size they are and where to buy them? Thanks

[@dperry428]

timesavers.com/i-8946082-669-x-015-x-43-3-hole-end-mainspring-for-40-hermle-barrel.html timesavers.com/i-8946083-827-x-0157-x-61-hole-end-mainspring-for-41-hermle-barrel.html

[@khossossykhossossy7955]

@@dperry428 You are the best. Thank you very much.

[@dperry428]

Certainly not the best, but you're welcome anyway.

[@kwacz]

I need to remove a mainspring from a barrel but this clock has a key that threads onto the arbor instead of the square end it is threaded. How do you do this?

[@dperry428]

Sounds like an alarm clock. You can let the springs down. Just use a piece of dowel with a slot cut in the end to go over the wings of the key. Then, the springs are weak enough to just remove by hand.

[@kwacz]

@@dperry428 its actually a chiming mantal clock. The spring is in a brass barrel just like the clocks with the square key, but for some reason this clock has keys that screw in and then the part of the key you grab to wind folds in flush with the back of the clock. The dowel idea is a good one since i dont see any tools for this, i think ill just make that. Probably make an attachment like that for my spring winder too.

[@dperry428]

OK, that sounds like a novelty clock with a small movement, much like an alarm clock. I'd like to see it. Can you post a short video on your channel?

[@kwacz]

@@dperry428 i can, i will be disassembling if for a proper cleaning after the holidays when i have more time. I will do a video on this sometime in january.

[@dperry428]

Let me know when it's on line.

[@plasminus]

Wondering about converting a spring like in your video to use for another function? Same shape but perhaps only 25cm in length. Need to attach a material to it of the same length. Imagine a seatbelt mechanism for example. Except in my case the retracting mechanism needs to be a lot stiffer than a seatbelt. It looks like your spring might be the right tension. Do you think it could work? Any suggestions who might do such a thing - or a spring maker somewhere? Many thanks!

[@dperry428]

Springs are just steel and can be recycled. Here's where I take mine: www.dimcodekalb.com/ It is much better just to order from a spring supplier or have springs made by a manufacturer. Here's an example: www.mcmaster.com/springs and another: www.centuryspring.com/products/constant-force-springs/ Better to use a spring with the characteristics for a specific design use.

[@plasminus]

@@dperry428 OK thank you. I'm new to this so first steps. Nice video thanks.

[@whitedwarf29]

I'm building a clock from scratch . I currently do wight driven clocks, but i see the advantage of doing a main spring driven one instead. because its my design i do not know what spring to buy ( i can't look in a manual ). my clocks run typically off of 16 lbs ( yes, that's a lot but its mine ) of hanging weight. I do not know what spring i should go with . i only know i want a long spring so i can get at least 2 days or better of wind time and deliver the torque i need . So do you know if someone makes a high torque spring like what i would need and any thing else you can think of like that. BTW i am making the barrel myself so barrel size in relation to the spring is no concern within reason. One last thing , how does the center arbor in the barrel connect to the spring? is it just friction fit or is it something else like a divot or something or maybe even a small hook, i could not really tell in the video in the first 15 min. i watched.

[@dperry428]

The spring barrel arbor has a projecting hook at the center of the arbor that hooks the hole in the inner end of the mainspring. You might like to read about the construction of a clock on thhe NAWCC forum. Here: mb.nawcc.org/threads/building-a-pinwheel-skeleton-clock.67822/ If you scroll through the thread, you'll find a section on mainspring and barrel construction. Here is a picture of a mainspring arbor for sale at Timesavers. timesavers.com/i-8946092-winding-arbor-sleeve-41-54-55-barrels.html

[@whitedwarf29]

@@dperry428 thank you very much, next thing is where to buy a mainspring. any suggestions? ( i hope i did not miss that in the article ) oh and here is a link to a pic of one of my latest clocks.. its 3d printed. works pretty good. 12hr per wind postimg.cc/WDv9jd6P the clock was ticking when i took pic so pendulum was to one side. I did all the design and printing of this. as you can see the weight parts take up alot of wall space , so thats why im looking to convert to a spring.. thanks in advance.

[@SkyMaster2947]

Excellent Video, How did you get the Spring Barrel Cover Off? I don’t see a hole in which to pry it open!!

[@dperry428]

Best not to pry them off; can distort the cover. Hold it in your hand with the winding arbor away from the palm and whack it on the workbench. Or, put a piece of wood against the winding arbor and whack it with a hammer. It will pop off.

[@joannegosse9836]

I live in Sauk Rapids MN. I have a beautiful 1800's cuckoo quail that needs some work done. Is there a more private way of communication about this. Thank you

[@dperry428]

I hold comments for review to eliminate troll comments. Leave an email address in a comment and I'll contact you and delete the comment. It won't be seen by anyone but me.

[@SeasparrowDD979]

I just bought a West German cuckoo clock and realized the barrel is missing some teeth and the big spring that the pendulum uses. How do I figure out what size the spring should be for the pendulum??? I want this clock to work so badly...

[@dperry428]

Replacement springs are ordered by measuring the width, thickness and length. If the barrel is missing teeth, it will need to be repaired (expensive) or replaced. Assuming that the movement is a Hermle movement, both barrel and spring can be replaced. A number on the barrel cover will give you all the information you need. timesavers.com/search.html?q=hermle+mainspring

[@TUCBER]

Good morning Do you know where I can find (or buy) a screwdriver with a wooden handle for a 4 mm pendulum key? THANKS Greetings. How do you call it? Regards Bernard. Barrel is blocked . No turn on left not turn on right. Thankd. Bernard France/Grenoble 81 YO

[@dperry428]

If you mean a "let down key" for releasing springs, here is a source: timesavers.com/i-8948362-let-down-set-with-six-chucks.html www.clockworks.com/product/clock-mainspring-let-down-tool-set-of-2 www.amazon.com/Winding-Letting-Release-3-5-5-25mm-Mainspring/dp/B0CGRL4TCV kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2fcnqakhs2Sj80

[@davidpoveda8778]

I wanted to ask you about the model of the lathe you use. Thank you very much and go ahead with the channel. I am from Costa Rica.

[@dperry428]

Sherline 4500 series 8" lathe

[@pointer2null]

Is it possible to do this without the spring winding tool?

[@dperry428]

Yes, many still do. In fact, for many years I did, too. To remove the spring from the barrel, long-nosed pliers are used to pull the first few inner coils out of the barrel and, using very careful control of the spring, slowly rotate and twist the spring from the barrel. The problem is that, in many cases, if this is not done very carefully, the spring distorts and ends up as a cone-shape instead of flat spiral. When the spring is put back into the barrel, it's cone shape causes it to rub against the barrel cover, seriously compromising power. Of course, if the spring isn't being reused, it doesn't matter, but you still need to use care removing it from the barrel or it can suddenly fly out and hit you in the face or tear heck out of a body part. To manually install a spring in a barrel, the hole end is place in proximity of the barrel hook and the spring slowly wound into the barrel. It is easy at the beginning and becomes increasingly more difficult as more of the spring is pushed in. The problems caused in doing this are that the coils of the spring are dragged edge against edge and burrs can be raised on the spring edges that will interfere with function and power. I've seen people skilled enough to both remove and install them bare-handed, but I never would attempt it without leather gloves. I had my share of accidents taking them out as well as on installing. I'm glad I have the spring winder. At 76, I doubt I have the hand strength anymore to put a spring back in manually. There's no scarier feeling than to have a spring almost back in the barrel, not having the strength to finish the job and now have to take it back out.

[@dperry428]

Here's a video of a fellow doing what I just described. Note his right thumbnail. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGi4hYFuZqxnpK8

[@bobmannix5430]

Hi, great video - a question: most suppliers estimate length of spring by thickness and barrel diameter. If you are using a winder, do you use the winder barrel diameter or the clock barrel diameter? I am concerned about using the clock barrel diameter and then finding it won't fit in the winder barrel.. Thanks.

[@dperry428]

I'm sorry, but I don't think I understand your question. I don't know what you mean by "winder barrel diameter". When I need to replace a spring, I remove it from the clock mainspring barrel, use a caliper and micrometer to measure the width and thickness of the spring, stretch out the spring and use a tape measure to measure its length. Then, I order a spring from the supplier that has those dimensions. What suppliers are you referring to when you say they "estimate length of spring by thickness and barrel diameter"? Of all the suppliers I use, none of them do that. I order mostly from Timesavers, Ronell Clocks, Merritt's, Mile-Hi Clocks and a number of others. Where do you order your springs? You might find this interesting and will, perhaps, answer what I'm guessing is your question. mb.nawcc.org/threads/mainspring-help.35250/#post-248821

[@bobmannix5430]

@@dperry428 sorry if I wasn't clear, I am in the UK and just starting out. I saw an on line calculator which asked for the diameters/thickness and estimates the length for you. I have a broken mainspring (arbor end) that needs replacing and, hopefully soon, an Ollie Baker winder. The clock barrel internal diameter is 53 mm but the next size down barrel that comes with the OB winder is 44mm (the next up is 54mm which is too big). Not sure whether this is too big a difference or whether it doesn't matter! Hope this makes sense! ( Circa 1900 fuzee English dial click ck)

[@dperry428]

The sleeves that come with an Ollie Baker spring winder aren't barrels; they are retainers or collars that are inserted between the spring and the barrel wall after the spring is wound up so that it can then be removed from the clockspring barrel. For sizing a mainspring, the only diameter that is relevant is the clock barrel.

[@bobmannix5430]

@@dperry428 OK thanks, my bad for using the wrong terminology - apologies! I was just hoping the spring for a 50mm barrel would wind down small enough for 44mm OB sleeve. Only one way to find out! Thanks for your time replying 👍

[@mikeraine7422]

I have a barrel spring that I have just taken out. It is an English movement, it has three barrel springs. The first one I took out was broken in about 6 places. This is my first spring job. You say that the order spring # is stamped on the barrel cover. I have hunted everywhere and don't see a #. How can I know which spring to order and from where would be your suggestions. Love your videos. God Bless; Kiwi Mike

[@dperry428]

The number stamped on the barrel cover applies only to movements made by the German manufacturer Hermle. What you need to do is measure the thickness of the spring, the width of the spring, and the length of the spring (as best you can), then look to a supplier for the nearest available size. Width is extremely important as it has to fit the width of the inside of the barrel. Timesavers is one supplier. timesavers.com/search.html?q=mainspring Ronell ronellclock.com/Hole-End_c101.htm Milehi clock supply milehiclocksupplies.com/mainspringxref.htm Merritt's www.merritts.com/merritts/public/productlist.aspx?CategoryID=1145

[@SIBERIANDEATH]

Hi: I woold like to ask you if is possible to re use a broken spring by making another hole to hook the shaft, I say this coz Im in New Zealand and here is the country of the rip offs, I try to buy a new spring for my westclox alarm clock and they try to charge me with $50 NZ dollars OR $100 if fitted! As the spring is broken just at the tip I want to make another hole and re use it, I know clock will run shorter but that is not a problem, just want to know how to make a hole on the spring without making more damage on it. Thaks

[@dperry428]

Repairing the hole in the outer end of the spring is easily done, but the inner hole repair could only be done by distorting the spring. I wouldn't even attempt it. Go to timesavers.com/files/tsvshipping2019.pdf and you'll see they ship internationally. Search for the spring you need and order a new one and have it shipped to you. You'll need to know the width, thickness and length of the spring you need.

[@mikeraine7422]

Hey fellow Kiwi, just watching this video and see you are from NZ. I was born and raised there, mainly in Temuka and Christchurch South Island. Now live in Prairie Grove Arkansas in the Boston Moutains of the Ozark. Love working on clocks, just into collecting Morbier Comtoise clocks out of France. Have several hanging and several tall case clocks.

[@Josias647]

Gracias. Apêndice Brasil. Pivoting?

[@dperry428]

I don't understand.

[@papadigsiowa8471]

how do I know which new spring to order?

[@dperry428]

If you are asking about this particular movement, which is a Hermle movement, a number is stamped on the barrel that contains the spring. Clock supply houses sell them based on that number. For any clock, you have to measure the width, thickness and length of the spring to be replaced and order one to match those measurements.

[@mikeries8549]

Seth Thomas model 120 movement needs new springs. The chime spring broke or came unhooked. It's a clock that's worth ~$120 and the repairman wants $275 just to clean it. I'm thinking dumpster the sucker and buy another antique clock.

[@dperry428]

@@mikeries8549 Why not offer it for sale on eBay and someone else will repair it or use it for parts? You can use the money to buy another clock.

[@Josias647]

Pivoting tools?

[@dperry428]

l don't know what you are asking.

[@whitedwarf29]

re-post: thank you very much, next thing is where to buy a mainspring. any suggestions? ( i hope i did not miss that in the article ) oh and here is a link to a pic of one of my latest clocks.. its 3d printed. works pretty good. 12 hr per wind postimg.cc/WDv9jd6P the clock was ticking when i took pic so pendulum was to one side. I did all the design and printing of this. as you can see the weight parts take up a lot of wall space , so that's why i'm looking to convert to a spring.. thanks in advance.

[@dperry428]

timesavers.com/search.html?q=hole+end+mainspring ronellclock.com/Hole-End_c101.htmsessionid=6F53691663A21BF4DF88D731E49AF72D.p3plqscsfapp001 www.merritts.com/merritts/public/productlist.aspx?CategoryID=1145 milehiclocksupplies.com/81.pdf perrinwatchparts.com/collections/clock-barrels-and-clock-mainsprings

[@whitedwarf29]

@@dperry428 thank you

[@Mikkeyboyy]

tired spring needs to stretch and wake up!! then put new hole and reuse like new

[@dperry428]

Sorry, that's not how it works.

[@mikebruegger8654]

Can't that just be installed mostly into the barrel and then unwind the wire tie letting it expand to the barrel side slowly?

[@dperry428]

If you think that will work, go ahead. Once the spring is expanded and not fully into the barrel, good luck getting it the rest of the way in without damaging spring or spring hook. You'll end up having to pull it back out and hand winding it in anyway.

[@mikebruegger8654]

Good point

[@gregallen4893]

Hey I have an 1800's cuckoo clock I would like you to rebuild. if your interested contact me

[@dperry428]

I only work on clocks during winter. I'm done for this year. Make a comment next October with an email address and i'll contact you. I hold comments for review, so no one but I will see your email address.

[@jamesmatheson5813]

I need a clock made for me Please write me

[@dperry428]

I don't make clocks; I just repair those that people already have.

[@ПашаПитецкий]

Клас

[@spgranorthiam123]

NOW DAYS A NEW SPRING WILL BE OIL/GREASED,FROM NEW, AND SHOULD FIT STRAIGHT INTO THE BARREL THEN JUST UNDO THE WIRE JOB DONE.

[@dperry428]

After more than 50 years of working on clocks, I completely disagree with you. The so-called "oil/grease" in a new spring is not a proper lubricant. It is a thick anti-rust compound that is a lousy lubricant. The spring may work for a time, but you're looking for future problems if you don't clean and lubricate with a KNOWN substance. I'm also amazed, when I clean a new spring, how much manufacturing dirt and grit is in some of them. That's not what I want in a movement I've just spent hours rebuilding. Do as you want, but I simply wouldn't follow your advice nor would I advise any of my viewers to, either.