Replacing the AKAI S3000XL Sampler LCD Backlight with a Modern Solution

[@gaborpetroci]

Its ELD Electro Luminescent Display. Better solution would be the led, (but i dont know how to put it inside yet..) because that upconverting AC transformer constant high 1-3 khz sine whistle pretty disturbing on output audio..other solution, chokes, capacitors maybe with a bit of sound quality restriction, other solution an isolated wallwart DC supply for that whistling transformer. Changing caps that old units is highly recomended.

[@gaborpetroci]

I figure that out. There is enough place behind for smallest smd type of leds with little light force to dissolve, with small smd lights in paralell a dosen with a small ohm resistor to control amps to leds..(or use the dimmer pot for that..) two thick wire glued to same plastic sheet, and a above that, some white flexible white plastic sheet to dissolve point led light. It wont need too mutch amps, 5V type leds is enough. I wote for orange. The best for eyes.

[@TheBizzyBScience]

Cool vid , I am trying to find a cheaper option underfor £20 as the El backlights can be purchased quite cheap, and be cut But I am about to experiment so I am not sure

[@SiGoesRetro]

Thanks for watching bro! Yeah that’s a good idea I think once you find the right size it’s definitely the way to go, let me know how it goes, I’ve got another s3000 with a dead backlight!

[@jipouilledestloup3869]

and tanx so much to matt who sells the retroilluminators on ebay, and send your stuff on time, with a kind word.

[@Roomer645]

Superb quality video ... Great presentation with some history, the issue, the solution and a great walkthrough. Subscribed !!

[@SiGoesRetro]

Wow thank you for the kind words! Working on some new ones currently, they just take a while to get everything together

[@TheSoundtec]

Hi and Thanks It seems to be a military secret but can you tell us the model Number of the LCD Display?

[@underscar111]

this is explained very well, thanks

[@crushmonkeyvideo]

Copped an S3000XL with the faded backlight, but cant find the RetroIllumination on the Ebay Link. Any ideas where I can buy a panel?

[@SiGoesRetro]

I can see some of the replacement lcd panels on there, it might be worth getting one of those as the contrast difference is worth the extra money! I can’t see any backlight mods so maybe he’s not making them anymore! There are ways to make your own with phone backlight panels etc, but I’ve not tried it.

[@reno5159]

Just got the last one recently, he seems to restock every once in a while. Just keep checking his page

[@KrisCochrane]

Cheers for the Sub! I've returned the favour! Nice little EL panel, well designed. I like how its retained by the existing hardware.

[@tron944]

Some clarification: I did this on a S2800, same process. I have an S3000XL but really wanting the dark black modern LED screen, which means actually replacing the whole screen.

[@nicci_dee8292]

Its just awesome how far modern technology has come and what benefit the old one can get from it. Great Job

[@SiGoesRetro]

Thanks mate!

[@smiljanicn]

Yes, Amiga! Same here just with cd3000xl.Subed :) instantly

[@SiGoesRetro]

Really appreciate it mate! I’ve made some more stuff over that last few weeks just need to get round to uploading!

[@Gosha1992]

Such a good video. Love the tunes, recognize them from the Rollcage soundtrack!

[@tron944]

Thank you so much, I kept the old one in there, and simply left the cable off to the side.

[@MrSRellz]

Nice. That's something I need to do with mine

[@Gosha1992]

Heads up for anyone who wants to try this. I hoped it would fix my backlight, but it turns out my backlight inverter (white little box) was dead instead. Make sure you check that!

[@polosev]

What did u do to fix that pls? Did u just replace the inverter

[@Gosha1992]

@@polosev There's a DIY guide for how to replace it with an iPhone 6 backlight foil and DC boost converter. It involves cutting the foil to the correct size and taping it. Note that this DIY fix does NOT work with the original foil! In the end I decided to throw money at the problem and get a full LED (instead of LCD) screen replacement instead. Good luck!

[@dussie920]

​@@polosevI just bought a new generic replacement inverter (non AKAI). 8 euro and I was good to go.

[@gladbeast]

@@dussie920 i am currently in the same boat, where did you find the inverter, i spent a while looking but no joy so far, many thx

[@dussie920]

Conrad. The part number was 1570636. It is a True Components inverter I believe. You have to figure out de pins with the schema you receive with it. If you bend the pins it fits just in the original place.

[@museum1401]

Perfect - thanks.

[@djgreenhornet2892]

😎👍🏿

[@theimpostors]

I really must do this to my S3K - getting tired of having to sit right up against the display!!!?! Well produced video, btw

[@SiGoesRetro]

Thank you mate! Love your productions, are you guys still producing on the Amiga? Would love to have a chat about what you’re doing, heard some bangers in BizzyB’s last stream

[@theimpostors]

@@SiGoesRetro Thanks, Si. Yes, just got your email via bandcamp, will respond shortly :)

[@theimpostors]

Hi Si, Finally got round to buying a new backlight from RetroIllumination. Turns out the inverter has gone. Will have to either source an old one or get a new equilvalent part

[@wendyslittleprogram3984]

@@theimpostors is there a way to test the inverter before buying a new backlight first?

[@theimpostors]

@@wendyslittleprogram3984 Yes! RetroIllumination explained the test as follows [CAUTION: HIGH VOLTAGE]: 1) check polarity and integrity of backlight [BL] connector; 2) check AC voltage across the 2 pins of the header where BL connector plugs to mainboard, using multimeter with BL unplugged and sampler on, should be 150V with contrast switch on and 0V when off (press contrast knob until click - don't turn); 3) if no 150V across header pins, check the FR1 fusible resistor near inverter cube, sampler on, BL unplugged, negative to chassis, check both legs of the resistor in both states of contrast switch (on and off), should have 4 DC readings eg. 5.0V, 4.2V, 0.0V, 0.0V, if so, resistor ok and inverter faulty/failed; 4) replace inverter if you can find another one, but rare to get an original. there is an equivalent modern part, but I don't know what that part is or its specification - maybe SiGoesRetro or BizzyB knows what the new part is?

[@kieronconcannon]

Great, thanks.

[@angelodomino]

Cool video!

[@amonster8mymother]

❤

[@amonster8mymother]

My s3000xl is looking dim!!!

[@Furari23]

Great video, unfortunalty, found out that my inverter is dead, I do not really know what could be done

[@SiGoesRetro]

They do come up on eBay from time to time, I’d also contact retroillumination as he’ll most likely have a solution for you!

[@Furari23]

@@SiGoesRetro Thank you! I will try to do so

[@oxu-studio]

Hi, thanks for this video. I have an S2800 Akai, does it work too? or need another backlight model.

[@zx81]

They work on S2800 too! :)

[@hvxcolors396]

I think you are misinforming your youtube audience with this video. This is not a modern solution but the old fashioned one. First, these EL panels have a relatively short life and the inverters they need produce after so many years a loud noise. Certainly people that can hear higher frequencies are bothered by them. Nowadays there exist replacement screens for almost all Akai samplers, the new screens don't need these EL panels anymore, have a higher contrast and you can remove the whining inverter. Your ears and eyes will thank you. They cost a bit more than an EL screen but they give your sampler a much higher resale value.

[@ianshepherd917]

the background noise is annoying and unnecessary

[@SiGoesRetro]

Thanks for the comment! I wasn’t aware there was any background noise? Can you explain what you mean?

[@ianshepherd917]

@@SiGoesRetro music at equivalent level to voice