Replacing the Alternator on the Free Craftsman Mower

[@jyearr6744]

Thanks for the great vids. Helped me on my BnS motor that also that needed a stator. One thing on the flywheel key. Mine also sheared on initial stator install immediately upon start-up. I have since read that supposedly the key is just for alignment and if the bolt isn't properly tightened to spec that can happen due to it being a compression fit. I still haven't torqued mine yet, just hammered this piss out of it with the makita the second time around 😅

[@theeddies]

Hello, yes it is possible that if the rotary does not seat tight enough it could re-shear the key. It happened to me once a few years ago. If you used one of the small impact drivers (the kind that takes screwdriver bits) , I would go back and torque it. if you used a medium or heavy impact gun (the kind with a square drive) you should be fine. Another good reason to keep a supply of keys on hand😅 Next time I do one of those on video I will be sure to mention that because it is a good point. Thanks! Eddie

[@jlwaltripsr0816]

Not sure why you did it but figured I'd share Incase you are anyone else doesn't know! When the battery is installed and connected you always remove the negative cable first! So when temporarily disconnecting the battery take the negative off! When installing a new battery you go in the opposite order! You connect the positive cable first then the negative! If you already know I apologize!

[@Grey-Troll]

Pff that's a myth and/or only applies to vehicles and equipment who were designed by a man with a hole in his head. Obviously there are going to be exceptions, usually people who have no idea how to work a screwdriver around 'hot' cables and terminals or someone with a large capacitor for giant subwoofers, but unless the vehicle/tractor has both an ECU (EFI non-carbureted) and exposed wires (ones with worn off insulation and no loom) that pose a danger of sending 12v to a much lower voltage sensor line frying the control circuitry, there's pretty much zero chance of anything bad happening. Of course you don't wanna hook up an old battery cart in 'jump start mode' (super high amperage) until the battery is venting hydrogen before you remove the terminal connections... but I wouldn't remove either one in that case!

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hi Eddie, Good video... Pleased to see the mower is back in action... Take care. Paul,,

[@theeddies]

Good thing it was free but it is still costing me money. All the best! Eddie

[@t-countyboyz4488]

Thanks for this video I’m currently about to replace my mother in laws on her mower and this really helped break it down I kinda figured it was below the fly wheel but didn’t know for sure so thanks

[@theeddies]

Thanks! The only tricky part is getting the flywheel off some of them. Otherwise, it is just a nuts and bolts job.

[@countrylife9256]

Good to see your still kicking . Was wondering if you were ok.

[@theeddies]

Still kicking, just slot of other stuff going on. I hope to get back to at least a video a week though. Thanks for sticking around. All the best! Eddie

[@mftmachining]

Good job, Eddie

[@theeddies]

Thanks!

[@jgs272881555]

i learn a good bit and i like the air blower great

[@luisarturogarciaarmijo9117]

Excelente Maestro 👍

[@SunofYork]

I paid at my local restaurant with my card. The 'Southern Belle' waitress took it in the back room. When I got home, there was an email to say I had bought the meal plus 5 pairs of children's shoes. I always pay cash now... Amazon --no problem..

[@DNAFriendlyFire]

Just found this video. I'm trying to figure out where the voltage regulator is located on this mower. On every single mower I've ever worked on it was mounted on the side of the engine and the stater plugged into it and then the single wire went to charge the battery. The one I'm working on right now is similar to this one and I can't seem to locate the regulator. Is the regulator part of the stater on this engine model?

[@theeddies]

The "regulator" is sort of part of the stator. I had the same question as you and made a vdeo answering it. This video explains everything. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipipaJqcgq-AqZosi=7-R303dnASF67XA0

[@MRrwmac]

The flywheel wouldn’t come off of mine with the old leverage and bang trick either. Seems we both have the same HF puller... haha. Chinezium knock off for less than $20 you say? I might have gotten one of those I guess, but the last thing I ordered that was China made took 2 months to get here and grass growing season in NC is still growing... haha. So I broke the bank and got an orig B&S (won’t say how much I paid but the grandaughters Christmas presents will be cheaper this year). My alternator should be here in a couple days. No I didn’t try your amp gauge trick yet but ordered the part anyway. Just in case, like you it goes out later... haha.

[@theeddies]

I have a snap on 2 leg puller that I paid $10 for. That was my Christmas. The alt has gone strong since I made the video. I figured if it lasted a season or two I would call it a success

[@homeistheearth]

I made one for free from a small square pipe, an old thread piece of a old broken puller, som nuts, washers and bolts and it can take alot of different sizes as the pipe is like 8-9" long.

[@ogairbender808]

How do i find out which stator i need for my lt 16 332 having trouble finding the oart number

[@theeddies]

Try finding the engine model number and look it up that way. Some mowers also have a secret sticker with a bunch of part numbers for different common parts for that mower. Look all under the seat and hood. It could be anywhere.

[@jonwright676]

Would that be why my positive wire on the battery is smoking

[@philliphall5198]

Easy job for sure 😊

[@jonwright676]

i wonder if that is why the positive side on the batrie the terminal is smoking when I try to start it

[@theeddies]

Certainly sounds like it could be an overcharge issue.

[@vw4x4]

You should have upgraded it to a full fledged 10Amp system.

[@jonei6]

What is the part number on the new alternator?

[@theeddies]

There is a link in the description.

[@psbc1]

Had same problem with shearing had to torque flywheel down (100ft lbs) problem solved

[@philliphall5198]

I just use a puller and get it over with since I have a dozen pullers Flywheel AllWAYS dirty and needs blowing out

[@eddietaylor8916]

More sense than Taryl .

[@theeddies]

lol, thanks!

[@bae896]

where is the 5 minute video that says "check here and you're good"

[@theeddies]

What?

[@johnstrange6799]

Less than $20 to keep the battery charged is well worth it.

[@theeddies]

Yeah funny thing is, I bought it in January and actually paid $25. But when I went to get a link they are now $40. Either seasonal pricing or something else going on. Still a deal compared to charging the battery after every use, which would wear it out quicker.

[@johnstrange6799]

@@theeddies Little lathe with a horizontal mill built into it for $500. Never saw one before. facebook.com/marketplace/item/239384164606886/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post

[@theeddies]

@@johnstrange6799 Kind of cool but also kind of a Shopsmith for metal.

[@johnstrange6799]

@@theeddies Yeah. That was my feelings too. If someone were doing really light work it could be perfect, but nah. Never saw one though.

[@theeddies]

@@johnstrange6799 I cannot see how that rack system on a round tube could possibly be very stable. I have the same system as table adjustment on my drill press.

[@Squad-pl7oo]

Torque your flywheel bolt to 100 ft lbs