Restore Your Stainless Steel Sink

I see many people are afraid to aggressively clean and polish their stainless steel sinks, but with the right products it's easy and effective. Restoring the original shine can be accomplished with abrasive pads and the use of automotive polishes and compounds. I'll tackle a slop sink and a kitchen sink in this demonstration. While I did just a minimum finish restoration in this video, you can choose to take the techniques much further. A factory level finish can be restored just by using these methods a little longer for each step.

[@AmazingChinaToday]

"Barkeeper's Friend" works miracles on stainless steel, and is what I also use for regular cleaning instead of liquid cleanser. I buy the liquid version of Barkeeper's Friend. It works so well because it contains a weak acid that dissolves gunk. It also works miracles on stainless steel pots --- the white residue from boiling water that sometimes appears on the pots disappears like magic.

[@blackbluntdogg]

Try using filtered water and see if u still get the white residue

[@nathanhedger1751]

As someone who was never taught how to properly clean a sink I appreciate this video.

[@patriciamoffitt1058]

Thank you. Had my stainless steel sink for 40 years and never knew to do this. Looking forward to it being new again.

[@KatxGuzman]

Very helpful! Thanks for this video!

[@hunnieseislove2623]

Great video. Easy to follow than most I’ve seems

[@eb9520]

ready for the mother-in-law...that comment made me laugh so hard!!! Love the video and can't wait to get at my sink now!!!

[@domainjester]

Going to do mine right now - thanks for all the detail, time to put in some good old fashion work :)

[@antoanetamarinova764]

Super good programm, THANK YOU!

[@mikehoffman3690]

Just tried this. End result was great. Thanks.

[@dipdipperson1683]

It would be ready for your mother in law. Made me laugh thanks for video 👍

[@user-xe9rx1cw5u]

I am so grateful to you! I accidentally got concentrated chlorine for my hot tub in the kitchen sink. By the time I noticed, the sink was blackened. I tried the usual recommendations to no avail. Fortunately, I came across this video, and the rubbing compound suggestion. It worked beautifully. My sink is perfect again. Thank you!!!!

[@enduringcharm]

That's really great to hear, and an example to follow for others who have had a bad day with bleach!

[@bg147]

Nice work. I never realized how stained my kitchen sink is.

[@kittvermeersch2586]

Thank you! I cannot wait to work on my sink.

[@stacywiegman7990]

This works. I used a brillo pad and The Perfect Sink which is just like soft scrub. My sink looks brand new. I'm sure you could also do this on a stainless steel cooktop.

[@nancysampson398]

Thank you. I have used a Mr. Clean eraser sponge to remove scratches on my stainless steel appliances (including my kitchen sink). It works nicely for removing scratches. I agree with the gentleman in his video demo that one must DO LONG strokes (not short strokes). Thank you.

[@jenncook9280]

Thank you SO much for this! My husband got muriatic acid in my stainless kitchen sink almost a year ago and ruined the finish. I have procrastinated replacing it. Just a little elbow grease and rubbing compound we had in the basement and it is restored!!

[@enduringcharm]

That's great to hear, I'm glad it worked for you!

[@zoellar11]

We just had a stainless sink installed so we are a ways away from really cleaning our sink. However, your video was excellent and I appreciate you taking the time to create it.

[@ebonyjones8804]

Thanks for this... I was ready to replace my sink.. Now I will try this

[@enduringcharm]

A little patience and elbow grease and you should be able to bring back a beautiful shine.

[@mika6516]

Great video. Thanks

[@Jack-fs2im]

very good ,will try it all on mine.thanx

[@jorgenvonstrangle000]

in 2020 during a pandemic, its 10pm on friday night, im 24. People expect me to go out to the bar and have some drinks and come home smelling like cigarettes and possible cooties on my clothes. Meanwhile, glad I saw this video, I got hard water spots on my sink and tried clorox and that powder cleaner before, and it removed some but not everything. I used some metal polish and a microfiber towel axtually since i never used steel wool. It came out actually quite well too tbh. Glad this video brought life back into my kitchen sink. I used some Mothers metal polish and meguiars compound. Really good stuff

[@enduringcharm]

Well, I'm glad you avoided cooties (nasty stuff) and now you can hold your head up high in public, knowing that you have a shiny sink at home.

[@misterjoe3]

Great advice !! Thanks !!

[@lanthonyperdum6430]

Great information...I was actually looking to replace my stainless sink soon !!!

[@enduringcharm]

Short of actual dents, you can usually polish out scratches or other signs of use. I didn't go all-out in this video, but if you use these techniques methodically and over a little more time, you can typically bring up a shine on almost any sink.

[@lanthonyperdum6430]

enduringcharm...Thanks again !!!

[@ThomasC1222]

Great video - We bought a new stainless steel sink when we installed the granite counter tops and our son tried to clean it - well it was clean but scratches - watched your video and used fine steel wool and it looks brand new again - .....thanks for posting this video ...!

[@selenamack1633]

My small sink in my food trailer rusted at the corners and spots i failed my inspection because of this. I have raised rust spots chips and it seems like it a medal with a coating. Help pkease!!! i dont want to pay ror another sink and it may be difficult to find that same size.

[@enduringcharm]

@selena mack The whole point of stainless steel is that it doesn't rust. So, either your sink is not stainless steel or else something else around it is rusting, perhaps fasteners which hold it in place. I can't tell without seeing it. In any case, it's likely you can find an inexpensive replacement if needed.

[@elementshieldsurfacesoluti6939]

Great video, very detailed. Did a video similar on removing scratches and protecting against further scratches.

[@msfoto3541]

great video, thank you

[@freema9246]

kudos! Always the Mother-in-law takin the heat.

[@In_a_mode]

Very helpful.

[@robbrien8506]

Mother's Automotive paste polish also works great on these sinks. Just need paper towels and dish detergent to clean off right after the polish. It works up to a black paste, but all is well after the soap and rinse. It does smell of petroleum distillates, so crack a window open and finish the job asap or quickly. Immediately throw dirty paper towels outside in the garbage.

[@ellenbader8200]

Brilliant!!!

[@Mopardude]

Soft scrub works pretty good for this king of thing too.

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, I've used that product in the past although it doesn't seem to be sold in my area anymore. Really any mildly abrasive cleaner is okay for stainless steel as long as you use a uniform cleaning pattern.

[@mpg296]

Finally a information I can use

[@murkydepths181]

Fantastic thank you

[@tiffanyb.7596]

THANK YOU 😊🦋

[@swissmiss221]

Great video. Thank you. Would you consider adding a list of the products you use?

[@enduringcharm]

You know, the availability of products tends to vary depending on where you are in the country or the world, so I hesitate to recommend specific brands. For the polishes and compounds used in this video, try your local automotive parts store or the automotive aisle at your local box store. Typically you'll find all sorts of metal polishes, paint compounds and waxes there. The brand isn't really that important, it's the concept that matters.

[@swissmiss221]

@@enduringcharm Thank you. I understand

[@markramos9484]

My sink occasionally gets rust spots and I clean it up with Barkeeper's Friend but I was wondering if there was a product that you can use after the cleaning to help prevent rust. Like something you spray on and it protects the sink from rusting.

[@enduringcharm]

A quality stainless steel sink really shouldn't have any rust in it at all. One possibility is that you have other things leaving a rust stain in the sink, such as a steel knife or pieces of a pot-scrubbing pad. Possibly water with a high iron content could be the culprit. There are lots of automotive waxes and sprays which could be used to protect the surface, but they will all eventually wear away with the soapy water in the sink. First see if you can figure out what else might be leaving the stain.

[@Adam-lq5kg]

I use the S.O.S Steel Wool Soap Pads, gets things looking pretty decent.

[@sunnychekrs7597]

Thank you.

[@MrandMrsLang]

Ready for your mother-in-law, LOVE IT, lol!

[@couchalmighty]

Thanks for the video! With the steel wool, is it safe to use it without gloves? Can it shed some metal particles into your skin?

[@enduringcharm]

Steel wool can be used safely in your hands. There are commercial pot-cleaning products intended for hand washing which also use steel wool as the base.

[@couchalmighty]

@@enduringcharm thank you!

[@SmaLL.StaR.92]

After done. Can I do polish on stainless steal sink ? I want it shining. Thank-you

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, you can keep polishing until it gleams. Pretty much any automotive polish that is safe for car paint is also safe for the SS sink.

[@melonv.1862]

Hi John, this was a wonderful tutorial and is super helpful. I was wondering if I could use this technique to buff out scratches on a stainless steel stovestop. I was dumb and used an abrasive sponge on it when cleaning. Now, there's scratches in all directions (the scratches don't seem too deep though, I can't feel them easily with my finger). Do you think I could skip the scottbrite (since technically I already did such a step) and use the steel wool and compound and polish to remove the scratches and get the shine back? Thanks alot!

[@enduringcharm]

You do need to be cautious, because appliances can have a clear coating over the stainless steel to protect it. In fact, sometimes it isn't stainless steel at all but a mild steel with a brushed surface to imitate stainless and the clear coat is the only protection. That said, if you did just scratch the clear coat, then it may be possible to buff out the scratches in the clear coat, which is something commonly done on cars and trucks too. I would suggest finding your manual or testing on a hidden spot to see if you do have a clear coat over the metal or not. If you do, you can try an automotive compound labeled "clear coat safe" and see if you can buff out the scratches with a microfiber rag or even a power buffer.

[@melonv.1862]

@Enduring Charm LLC thanks a lot for the response! It's a gas stove cooktop and it seems to take fingerprints and whatnot so I'm thinking it's real stainless steel?

[@enduringcharm]

Possibly, but it may still have a clear coat. For example, Maytag calls theirs 'duraguard." You should start with an automotive buffing compound which says "clear coat safe" and see how that goes. I mean, it's already scratched, but you don't want to make it worse.

[@melonv.1862]

@@enduringcharm will definitely follow your tip then. thanks again for the help!

[@keithvannote729]

What is your opinion of Sheila Shine? I have used that product to clean slop sinks in medical facilities.

[@enduringcharm]

New one on me! I've not heard of that product.

[@kiallopebella5488]

so helpful, can you help with my situation!! as a girl in her 20s, never had any experience with this stuff so i used a sponge with some grout on it and scrubbed the bottom of the sink (didn't realize 1. grout water is bad to pour down the kitchen sink and 2. using the sponge to wipe the sink down would cause a haze.) 1. i only poured about half a water bottles worth of grout water down the drain, will this cause damage? and 2. in the spot that i scrubbed on the sink it looks like it scratched the shine off the sink/ sanded it? when I went over it with a wet paper towel it kept giving me gray on the towel then i tried rubbing alcohol and the same thing- like the sink was coming off!! is there a way to repair!? my family will freak out when they see what i did to the brand new sink!

[@enduringcharm]

Ha! Well, I think you'll be able to fix this. First, pouring dirty grout water down the drain is not a great idea only because the remaining grout could collect in the trap below and harden. Once that was done, running the water for a period of time might have helped clear it out. It sounds like you didn't pour very much down the drain, so I'm sure it will be fine. That aside, you may have scratched the sink surface with the sand in the grout. As I showed in the video, it's possible to polish the surface back to a shine again. I would start with something without too much grit, such as an automotive compound or a commercial cleaner such as Soft Scrub. Probably the scratches are not very deep, so a finer grit product will polish that sink right up. The gray substance on the rag was just fine particles of metal. If the sink is new it is probably left over from the manufacturing process. When you polish the sink you may also get some of this residue. Polishing is basically rubbing off some of the metal until you get a new surface. With a polishing I think you'll have a new sink again. Take care to do the whole surface the same way so that it looks uniform.

[@kiallopebella5488]

@@enduringcharm Yes it is a new sink! Thank you so much for your detailed reply-truly so so helpful!!! :)

[@CyrusOfNaias]

Hello, I've been cleaning some Silver using a boiling-hot water and Baking Soda solution. After a certain amount of time repeatedly pouring the mixture (and tarnish) down the drain, I noticed that the shine on the sink has dulled considerably, and turned slightly whitish. I would like to restore the sink, and I will attempt that using the method(s) you showed here. But if there is anything else you can say about Baking Soda [stains?] specifically, please do. Thank you

[@enduringcharm]

Metal can always be renewed by scratching deeper, provided you have a thick enough surface to go deeper! For your stain I suspect the issue does not go very deep. Worse case you can start with a strong abrasive, such as a scotch brite or steel wool pad, and rub the stain away. Then it's just a matter of working finer and finer abrasives and polishes on the surface until the sheen is where you want it to be. Just like sanding wood, where you start with a rough abrasive like 100 grit and work your way up to a finer grit, like 220 or 320. Same idea. Just remember to use long strokes and even coverage, because whatever you scratch away you'll also have to even out and polish, and you want it all to match.

[@CyrusOfNaias]

@@enduringcharm Okay thank you

[@HollywoodF1]

You should be using STAINLESS STEEL WOOL. Regular (mild) steel wool will embed tiny particles of mild steel in the stainless sink that will rust and stain the sink repeatedly and be difficult to remove. This is especially problematic in brushed-finish (#4-finish) stainless. If you have already made this mistake, use an iron remover chemical product used in automotive detailing.

[@enduringcharm]

I understand your concern, but it really isn't a problem in practice. In fact, the steel wool used for commercial pot scrubbing products like S.O.S. pads is not stainless and it will rust once the soap wears off. For stainless sinks the inevitable pieces of wool that break off will simply wash down the drain with the compound or soap you are using after rinsing. But, if you are still worried, you can use the scotch pads instead of trying to source stainless steel wool.

[@isaiahspinney6113]

The chrome polish he had has iron removers in it and it works fantastic on tons of stuff

[@masudabanahi2404]

Can you make a video on how to get rid of deep scratches on stainless steel sink and list supplies to buy please?

[@enduringcharm]

What I showed in this video will also work for deeper scratches, but it will take more work. You would start with a more abrasive wet/dry sandpaper and then work your way up to smoother grits until you get the polished look you want.

[@masudabanahi2404]

My sink gets backed up with dirty water from dishwasher when I turn it on. I don't know if there is a block in my garbage disposal. Can you please make a video on how to fix this issue?

[@enduringcharm]

Every situation is different, but you could well have a partially blocked drain or a poorly routed drain. I'm afraid you'll have to have a local plumber take a look.

[@boocat8768]

Hello John I let toilet duck rest too long on my bath and taps , the stainless steel has turned black almost , can I restore my lovelyvtaps or buy new ones ? Really pleased if there is a solution . Thankyou . First time I ever tried this by the way , I usually use detergent to clean my bathroom , it was suggested to me .

[@enduringcharm]

It's almost certainly restorable if you scratch deep enough and then polish your way back to being smooth. If you read some of the other comments regarding similar problems you'll understand the process.

[@enduringcharm]

Actually, let me add one more thing--you mention your "taps." Do you mean your faucet handles and such? Those could be a different metal and they could have a clear coating on them. For example the "brushed nickel" finish is popular in the states, which is typically just standard or stainless steel, scratched up with a wire brush in the factory, and then coated with clear finish sprayed over it. That clear finish could be a problem as far as restoration. The chemicals required to remove the finish would be prohibitively messy and destructive to make it worth it.

[@monalisa-xe6wm]

I have just noticed my lovely shinny stainless steel tap in my bathroom has a pit mark on it, I have been very careful when cleaning it and cannot understand what has caused this. Can I do anything to it without scratching it?

[@Arionlappy]

I moved into this house about a year ago and the sink was new. Just the inside of one side of the sink is rusting. In that little metal piece right above the drain. I'm scrubbing with baking soda and a toothbrush but it's a hard angle to get to. Is there a different option for the one area? I'm not sure why just that one spot is rusting.

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not sure I follow you as far as what area you see rust. Stainless steel sinks don't rust, that's the whole point. What you may be looking at is the drain assembly that is rusting. That drain could be chrome over regular steel, and if you have a cheap drain assembly it could be rusting. If you remove the strainer and you are seeing rust in the circular drain assembly or at the edge of it where it meets the actual sink, then that's your culprit. The good news is that it is a trivial matter just to replace that whole assembly with a better quality drain. Disconnect the drain pipe from the P-trap, unscrew the drain from underneath, pop out the whole assembly. A plumber can replace the whole thing in 20 minutes or less.

[@Arionlappy]

@@enduringcharm thank you. I guess it could be that. In the slop sink you use, it's the exact same shape drain thing right in the center of the sink. I appreciate you responding though

[@enduringcharm]

Yeah, that's the drain assembly. Inexpensive and easy to replace. Don't bother trying to clean the rust away, it's just going to come back and it will eventually leak if it isn't already. Have the whole drain replaced and you'll be good to go.

[@Arionlappy]

@@enduringcharm yeah it's not leaking yet. But ok, thank you, will do

[@gutmar7926]

I am inexperienced, and I scratched my sink with a pumice stone. Do I have to do the same process that I do? Someone recommended that I sand with # 3000 and do it in circles. Does the white polish I have at home work for me?

[@enduringcharm]

There is more than one way to restore the shine, but all of them will require you to work up from a rough grit to a finer grit abrasive. What you are doing is scratching the surface evenly and then making those scratches finer and finer. Eventually you can just polish the surface. I don't know how deep your pumice stone scratch goes, but to repair it you want to start with the finest grit that will do the job. That may be wet/dry sandpaper, or a scotch-brite pad, or maybe just a rag with some polish. If you can catch your fingernail in the scratch you are trying to remove, then you'll probably need to start with sandpaper.

[@anealson1807]

I have several stains on my bathtub. My bathtub is regular white tub and do you have a video to get rid of stain? Thank you.

[@enduringcharm]

There are multiple types of bathtubs. Some are enamel over cast iron or enamel over stamped steel. Some are fiberglass and some are made of acrylic or other forms of plastic. You should try and identify which you have. A cast iron tub sounds and feels solid when you tap it with your fingernail. A stamped steel tub has a slight ring or hollowness when tapped. A fiberglass or acrylic tub has more of a matte finish and sounds like plastic when tapped. It would be somewhat unusual for an enamel to get a stain, unless it is a rust stain caused by the enamel wearing away and exposing the cast iron or steel underneath. In that case, there's not a lot you can do. For other types of stains you could try the household products like vinegar and backing soda, or you could try an automotive product designed for clear coat paints to see if the stain is on the surface. If your tub is fiberglass or acrylic I have a video on how to address those styles: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l3a8l2Odhbyrb7Msi=ZeTEEAm32Y6CdXqx

[@smithgeorge6858]

Can you make a video what happens when you scrub it in circular motion. I would like to how it would look like.

[@enduringcharm]

The reason I advise a straight motion is that the factory finish is oriented that way. You could do a circular motion, but scratches that you don't fully buff out will be obvious. Remember, no matter what direction you scrub you can always continue to polish the surface with finer and finer grit. Eventually you'll just have a perfectly reflective surface if you gradually work your way through the finer grits and keep at it long enough. But, that's the rub (pun intended). Most people aren't interested in spending hours polishing a sink! Scrubbing in a straight motion helps to camouflage your work in the factory finish so it will look good with less work.

[@smithgeorge6858]

@@enduringcharm oh ok but the reason i asked that question was i wanted remove scratch off my stainless pan but as you know the factory finish is brushed finish but in circles so for me to remove scratches I was thinking of scrubbing in random motion with 400 or 600 grit and I wasn't sure what kind of finish that would give.

[@enduringcharm]

Well, a cooking pan is a different story. The same principle applies, but you may need to follow a different pattern. Personally, I'd be less concerned about the way a cooking pan looks than how well it works. You'll probably want a smooth finish with a fine grit in order to avoid stuck food.

[@AnnD135]

I have a stainless steel gas stove, can I use this procedure

[@enduringcharm]

Eh. I'd be cautious about that. Stainless sinks are designed to be under water and abused so it's just the metal and nothing else. Appliances may be different. You may find that the surface has a clear coating on it for protection from fingerprints and the like. In fact, sometimes "stainless" or "brushed nickel" finishes are really just plain old steel that has been wire brushed and clear-coated. If you can find a hidden spot to test with a scotchbrite pad you could try that first. Bare stainless steel well rub easily but a clear coating will have a gummy, sticky feel to it when you rub. A clear coating will also show new scratches on a different layer than the metal. If you can find your owners manual it probably advises you about cleaning.

[@brunildasepulveda7631]

My problem is that the drain opener I used just stood for over 4 days in the sink and didn't open the drain. It started to eat away at the pvc pipe onto the under cabinet. When I noticed what was happening i realized what had happened. I had to drain the sink with a plastic cup into a pail and flushed it down the toilet. I saw the sink bottom had deep pitting... the acid had started to eat away the metal it self. This sink wasn't cheap. So I was wondering if there is such a thing as applying a stainless steel blanket of sorts to cover the pits, or am I gonna have to sacrifice my ssi check on a new sink😬

[@enduringcharm]

Two things. First, drain cleaner is nothing but bad news. I advise people never to use it because it will always be more effective to either remove the trap and clean it by hand or snake the line and clear the clog that way. As you've already found out, there are big downsides to using drain cleaners. Second, let's talk about your sink problem. You've physically damaged your sink surface and now it looks awful. The bad news is that there is no magical fix for that problem. The good news is that because you now have nothing to lose, you can attempt a radical repair! Depending on how deep the pitting goes, you may be able to use a series of sanding steps to remove the pitting and restore a smooth shine. I'm not going to kid you, this will take plenty of time and elbow grease. You can start with a rough grit sandpaper and water to remove enough surface metal so that the pits don't show. If the pits are very deep you may go right through to the other side, in which case you are done! But if the pitting isn't too bad you can sand it away. Then you'll use progressively smoother grits to restore the shine. An automotive parts store will carry the wet-sanding sandpaper you need. At this point you have nothing to lose except the cost of the sandpaper. The alternative is replacing the sink.

[@chriscortopassi9289]

Would you recommend sand paper for heavy scratches?

[@enduringcharm]

Well, sandpaper comes in a huge variety of grits. Up in the 4000 grit range, for example, you'll hardly notice it working. Choose a 50 grit and you'll be in trouble! If you have a scratch so deep that it actually catches your finger nail when you rub it, then perhaps you could try sandpaper. Just remember that whatever new scratches you put in the sink from the sandpaper must be worked out with smoother and smoother grits. So you'll want to start with the least abrasive grit which still gets the work done.

[@cjasper]

The drain in my stainless steel kitchen sink is only about 8 months old (new house), and I think someone has scrubbed it too hard. It looks like the silver finish is coming off, and there's a copper or brass finish underneath. How can I return that drain to its original stainless steel finish? I will send a picture, if you tell me how. Thanks!

[@enduringcharm]

Your drain was probably chrome plating over brass, a common style. It was likely a cheap drain and the chrome plating has worn or chipped off. There's no way to return the missing plating. A local plumber can replace that drain with a new, better quality one. That's the only way to fix it.

[@cjasper]

@@enduringcharm Thank you! I had the feeling that was it, but it's good to have a pro opinion on it.

[@MAGGIEHURSZT]

i had to use torpedo on my sink, and it left the stainless-steel sink bottom, sore of a black or very dark grey, how can i get it to look new again?

[@enduringcharm]

I had to look that up--Torpedo is a drain cleaner? I'm not a big fan of drain cleaners! So, you have stained the metal and the only question is how deep it goes. If you follow the instructions in the video you'll be on the right track. If the stain goes very deep, you might have to start with a very abrasive medium, perhaps even a sandpaper. Then once the stain is gone, you work your way up to finer and finer grits.

[@MAGGIEHURSZT]

Thank you

[@crystalvanduren3837]

So, I've ruined our sink with lime away. Any suggestions for how to restore it?

[@enduringcharm]

It's almost certainly repairable. Look, any stains or marks don't go very deep in the metal. As long as the metal is thick enough, you can always abrade the surface and sand down to clean metal. Then it's just a matter of polishing the surface you abraded to take out the scratches and build a shine. Now, if you are using an electric grinder with a stone wheel, it's possible to grind right through the bottom of the sink! But, you aren't going to go that far. Instead, you'll use your hands and only the necessary level of grit to sand out the damage. Start with fine grit and work your way up to rough grits until you find the "sweet spot" at which the stain is coming out but you aren't doing too much of your own damage to the metal. Try some abrasive cleaners first, if that fails try a scotch brite pad, if that fails then you get into wet/dry sandpaper. You can purchase the wet/dry sandpaper at auto parts stores and sometimes the home improvement stores. It's often used for automotive body work. You'll scratch off the stain with a rough grit, using water as a lubricant, then smooth out the scratches with a finer grit, then work your way down until you are polishing the surface. Just relax and let the sandpaper do the work while you listen to some music. With patience you should be able to remove the stain and polish the surface.

[@Robin-gf7bd]

I did the same thing to my sink ☹️

[@happinessisachoice9888]

I did the same thing :( .. lots and lots of scrubing and eventually looks a lot better… (metal wool scrubber or heavy grits sand paper) make sure you scrub it long stroke like he mentioned so you don’t see the marks..

[@rousseaurachel649]

Is there a method to get scratches from stainless steel fridge or oven

[@enduringcharm]

That is more of a problem. Many or even most refrigerator or oven surfaces have a clear coating meant to prevent smudging or fingerprints, and it may not be possible to sand them down clean. You could always try it on a small area that doesn't show, but the likelihood of success is low.

[@rousseaurachel649]

Damn :/

[@irisbailar3980]

what grit steel wool are you using?

[@enduringcharm]

I can't recall now, but generally it's best to start with a finer steel wool unless you really have a badly scratched sink on your hands. I do see steel wool sold in assortment packs with multiple grades, so you might consider that.

[@irisbailar3980]

@@enduringcharm Ok thank you. I am renting and the sink is dull and has very deep scratches.

[@cyphi1]

They specifically say don't use steel wool and brillo pads on stainless steel. Maybe because they want you to buy their products...idk. If you use bleach be quick and rinse well. I didn't realize that bleach is corrosive to stainless steel and it damaged the bottom of my sink after I soaked some things in bleach water. Replacing my sink now. Trying to get the old disposal flange to look new because I didn't want to buy another one.

[@enduringcharm]

I hope you haven't replaced the sink yet because it's very likely salvageable. While bleach can leave a corrosion stain on stainless, you'd have to have a high concentration of it and leave it sitting for a long period. It's perfectly safe to use standard cleaners that contain bleach (Softscrub, Clorox cleanup, etc.) and then just rinse after cleaning. You must have had a pretty concentrated amount of bleach. To repair your stain you just need to scrub--abrade--the surface below the thickness of the stain. Just as I showed in the video, you can start with heavy abrasives and work your way up to finer and finer abrasives until the polished sheen is back. Even if you had a deep stain you could use wet/dry sandpaper and get down to clean metal. As far as steel wool, the concern is that residue from the pads would rust and stain. Again, unless you are rubbing the surface and then just leaving the residue there, it will wash away. As I showed in the video, you'll work your way up to finer abrasives, eventually using automotive polishing compound. There will be no steel wool residue left. Or, if you are still concerned, you can purchase stainless steel wool or use a scotch brite pad instead.

[@annedonnellan6876]

I tried peek polish..not as good as glycerine

[@hama4291]

I've spilled some ceramic cleaner on my stainless steel sink (which is basically hydrochloric acid) and now I have these ugly blackish stains on it! Did the acid eat the steel and will the method shown here work? Thanks

[@enduringcharm]

Maybe. Depending on how deep the stain goes, you may be able to scratch off the surface to clean metal underneath and then polish out your scratches to a mirror finish again. But, if the stain goes very deep and you are literally gouging the metal to find clean metal you may be out of luck. At this point, what do you really have to lose?

[@hama4291]

@@enduringcharm ok I might try to minimally work it then leave it if it was a complex situation .

[@lynale990]

I have a 403 18Gauge SS sink, got scratches because I didnot know even a plastic scrub or baking powder can scratch

[@enduringcharm]

Stainless steel is a softer metal than many people realize. If you don't care about the appearance, you can just let the scratches occur. In commercial kitchens with stainless surfaces, the scratches form a patina of use. If you want the sink to maintain the appearance of when it was first installed, then you'll have to polish it on a regular basis. Since it is a softer metal, polishing will go quickly if you work as I showed in the video.

[@lmenges1]

Looks like someone varnished our sink. It’s a mess. How can I remove the varnish?

[@enduringcharm]

"Varnish" is used as a generic word, so you'd have to know exactly what is on the surface of the sink. Are you suggesting it was painted or sprayed with a polyurethane or other clear finish? Depending on what was used you may be able to take it off with acetone or alcohol. A citrus stripper might take off other finishes. After that you'd need to restore the metal finish as I showed in the video. However, the cost of a new stainless sink isn't that great, so you'd need to weigh the work versus the expense. If the existing sink is truly a mess you have nothing to lose by trying acetone or a citrus stripper. You can test on a small area first to see what works.

[@lmenges1]

@@enduringcharm thanks! I’ll try acetone. Keep you posted.

[@kimbickford5420]

How much would you charge someone to go do that at their homes for them?

[@enduringcharm]

This is not something I offer as a service, although I might clean up a sink if I was doing other work like a partial kitchen remodel for a client. And labor rates vary widely across the country. I think most homeowners could try this on their own, though.

[@joethelion6016]

Does it last? Mine just goes dull again when I use it :(

[@enduringcharm]

Well, you do need to set your expectations. A sink being used regularly is going to get scuffed up, that's the nature of metal. Some stainless sinks have a coating to protect against scratches, but that works both ways. It may offer some protection initially but as it ages and as it accumulates inevitable damage, it will start to look bad. A decent grade stainless sink with no coating can be polished as far as you want to take it. If you polish it thoroughly and to a fine finish, you should be able to get weeks of use without dulling. If you are having trouble, take a look at what cleaning agents you are using and if your sink does have a protective coating which is failing.

[@joethelion6016]

@@enduringcharm Very kind of you to reply, thank you. It's not so much scratching, just a general dulling, like the shine's gone. The draining board area is the same. I clean with dish soap and sometimes vinegar but it just goes dull again. Thanks very much for your response

[@enduringcharm]

It is possible you have a coating. Have you tried scouring a small area to see if you get gray residue on a rag? If you don't, it may have a coating. That aside, try some of the automotive polishes I mentioned in the video rather than vinegar.

[@joethelion6016]

@@enduringcharm My scouring sponges do get a grey film on them when I clean the sink and drainer yes. It really is very decent of you to be so helpful :)

[@susan1870]

I accidentally left Bar Keeper’s Friend powder too long around the drain. Now it is rust colored! Will this work for it or have I ruined my stainless steel sink?!

[@enduringcharm]

Well, you have nothing to lose now, right? Most likely you can remove the stain with a fairly rough grit of sandpaper or scotch-brite pad, and then work your way up to finer and finer abrasives. But, you don't want to make more work than is necessary. So experiment with the finest abrasive you can use which still removes the stain. I would suggest a scotch-brite pad or steel wool with some soapy water first and see how that goes. if you are getting nowhere you can use a more aggressive sandpaper and then work through finer and finer grits. Eventually you will get to the automotive polishes for a mirror finish.

[@veros.88]

Hello, I ruined my sink with a septic drain solution. Please help!!

[@enduringcharm]

A stainless steel sink is just sheet metal and whatever stain or etching you have will eventually sand/buff out if you go deep enough into the metal. Hopefully you don't have to go so deep that you run out of metal and make a hole! If you start with an aggressive (coarse) steel wool you'll get most of it out, probably. Just be sure to treat the rest of the sink the same way so it matches. Then you can refine the scratches with progressively finer sanding or buffing.

[@veros.88]

@@enduringcharm Thank you!!

[@dwjw1]

We have 'stains' on our brand new Moen SS sink that look like a different color grey (lighter) and match the places where water normally puddles in the sink before we wipe it off. We use the sink as we did the sink before it, but the different color grey marks are like stains. They look like something happened while the water stood on the sink before it was rinsed out. When I noticed them, I cleaned the sink with Soft Scrub, but they didn't come up and the next day they were larger and more of them - they seemed to be getting larger and some were forming rings of another shade. I tried to take a picture, but it wouldn't show up. In other words, the 'stain' is not really objectionable - I just don't like it. I looked on the internet and they said to use baking soda in a paste or slurry, rubbing in the direction of the 'grain' until the stain disappears. It is a little difficult to see any pattern in the material of our sink, but I did that and was able to get the parts that were beginning to discolor back to a light grey, but it is still visible and discernible against the normal color of the sink, though not nearly as objectionable. They are still not gone. I used a blue Scotch Brite 3x4 pad that is mounted on a handle and scrubbed very hard on each spot directly in several different directions to find one that is extra thick and extends past the ends and sides (which worked better than flat pads with a block) until they turned to the lighter grey, but the stains won't scrub away even after several minutes on each spot. After I got them to a reasonable lightness, I used longer strokes in the direction of the 'grain', but the pattern marks (look like puddles and drops) remain after a good half hour of long strokes with as much pressure as I could muster. After only a month since we installed this sink, we have several scratches in it and now these 'stains' are appearing (although they are only on one side of the sink - I mean in the left side sink of two sinks where the disposal unit is mounted in the right side sink). Our usual process is to run water as anything is dumped into the sink and rinse them out, seldom is anything left in the sink for more than a half hour - almost never overnight. And if it is left overnight, it is in the right side sink. And in all cases the sink is rinsed and wiped to remove the water drops before the stuff is placed back in it - usually to soak overnight. We have had several stainless steel sinks in several house before this one without this kind of trouble. So I am at a loss here. Did we just buy too cheap a sink? Any suggestions for us?

[@enduringcharm]

You didn't mention if you have just done a complete remodel or if just the sink itself was replaced. Obviously it's tough for me to guess from afar, but I have a suspicion about something. I wonder if the "stain" you see is actually a coating, perhaps drips or residue from other processes that were going on. If a clear finish from a cabinet were dripped on the sink, or if somebody tried to clean out a paint brush in the sink it might leave such a coating. Just a thought. Anyway, steel can always be abraded down to new metal. You mentioned attempting this but with little luck, which is why I wonder if you are looking at a clear finish or coating. I would suggest soaking a rag in acetone (for god's sake, protect the countertops and cabinets from the acetone first!) and applying the rag to the spots to see if anything comes off after the acetone works in for a few minutes. Acetone will remove many finishes. If that fails, let it dry and then attempt the same thing with full strength isopropyl alcohol. Both can be purchased at your home improvement or hardware store. It's worth this test to see if the "stains" come up. If they do, then you likely had something drip onto the sink at some point. Otherwise, whatever is there can be removed, but it may require more aggressive abrasion than you tried earlier. The process I showed in my video will work, but you may need to start with a heavier grit and then work your way toward a smooth finish again. If the acetone or alcohol works, then you can just use automotive compounds to smooth over the whole sink and make it look uniform.

[@williamsandler1363]

Most major brands these days source their SS sinks from China, where the SS is lower quality and more easily marred, stained leaving water marks even rusting through. Avoid made in China and you’ll be good to go. Italians Germans Japanese are the best, even a some Korean SS quite good & durable.

[@FreeFatFriday]

Bleach on stainless steel?

[@enduringcharm]

I routinely use household cleaning products containing bleach on stainless steel sinks. Clorox Clean-up is on example. These products contain only a small amount of bleach, I don't leave it sitting for long periods, and I rinse thoroughly. Having said that, stainless steel is not all the same. Some stainless alloys are of lesser quality and may stain more easily. And, if you use a super concentrated bleach cleaner or leave it on for a long period you might have issues. If you are concerned, test on a small area or test underneath and see what happens.

[@magno5157]

I'd like to see someone use a flap wheel attached to an electric polisher to remove scratches and then buff and polish the sink.

[@enduringcharm]

The flap wheel sanders are highly aggressive even in the finer grits. They are great for automotive body work or for removing rust from exterior structures. For a sink they would be overkill for sure. If it came down to that I would just get a new sink. Having said that, it isn't impossible that you could sand down a sink that aggressively and then work your way back to a mirror finish using finer and finer abrasives. The only question is how much metal you have left after the work!

[@aliasErEf]

I use JetBlue

[@atenasatenas8138]

I use a bronze or yellow soft metal brush atach to my DEWALT DRLL , IS FANTASTIC REMOVE ALL WHITE CALCIFICATION WATER MARK , ALWAY LONG STROKE 😊😊😊😊LOW SPEED PLEASE ! ! 😆 IT WORK 100% FASTER RRRR

[@thetrantowfamily8475]

Didn’t work. I can’t get the stain out - I accidentally sprayed Easy Off on the chrome/steel and I can’t get the white spots off. Ugh!

[@enduringcharm]

Well, look, easy-off cannot penetrate solid steel. So, the stain is on the surface. To exaggerate for a moment to make a point, if you took an electric grinding wheel to that sink the stain would disappear! The problem would be stopping before you ground a hole in the sink. Stainless steel sinks are stainless all the way through. There is a point at which you can remove that stain if you go deep enough, but it will take some elbow grease and time. You have to decide how important that stain is to your life. If it's really an eyesore and it's going to bother you, then you can get more aggressive with the methods in my video. Start with a heavy grit abrasive pad or even wet-sanding sandpaper if necessary. Eventually you will wear enough metal off to get rid of the stain. Then it's a matter of refining that grit to remove the scratches you made and produce a smoother finish. On the other hand, if the stain isn't that bad or you don't have the desire to spend an afternoon sanding you could leave it or just replace the sink. I mean, a stainless steel sink is a couple hundred bucks. Sanding and polishing supplies are 20 bucks. Pick your choice, but that stain will eventually come up if you sand deep enough.

[@welkinator]

MY problem is..... ten minutes after using this beautifully polished sink IT'S BACK TO LOOKING LIKE CRUD AGAIN. After one use it's water stained and looks like I never clean it. And I DO... every night, I clean the kitchen and use Barkeeppers Friend to polish the sink. Looks great! In the morning, after first use.....CRAP

[@enduringcharm]

I can only guess without being there, but there are several possibilities. Stainless steel comes in a variety of grades, so it's possible your sink just happens to be a poor quality metal and stains more easily. Another possibility is that you have water with high mineral content and the stain is the minerals in the water after evaporation. You could test this by completely drying the sink with towels and checking again in the morning. Another possibility is that your sink originally had a clear protective coating on it which has partially worn off. Finally, it could be the cleaner itself you are using. I would recommend trying some automotive products as I've shown in the video, and then drying off any remaining water in the sink at night. Then you can see in the morning how you do.

[@RosieHarp]

There comes a point where the stainless steel coating has comepletey worn off. You're left with a grey dull sink that won't shine and water just sits on the draining board, never dries

[@enduringcharm]

You have some misconceptions about how stainless steel sinks are made. There is no stainless steel coating, the sinks are formed from sheet rolls of stainless steel, so the material is the same throughout the entire thickness. There are different grades of stainless steel, however, such as 304 or 316. Lesser grades may not resist staining as well. There are also different thicknesses, so a 16 or 18 gauge will be more durable than a 22 gauge. Some manufacturers also coat their sinks with a clear finish. If you are having trouble in the form of a dull gray finish, you may be looking at a failed clear coating or perhaps you just need to polish what is there for the shine you desire.

[@RosieHarp]

@@enduringcharm Thanks for the info, every day's a school day 👍 I've tried quality washing up liquid, bicarbonate of soda, vinegar, you name it. It used to come up a treat but has deteriorated substantially in the last 2 years.

[@enduringcharm]

Well, if the sink is basically trashed anyway, it's worth a shot to try and polish it. But you may have to start with a rough grit to get off whatever finish is on it, and then work your way up to finer and finer polishing grits like in my video. You have little to lose if it already looks bad.

[@RosieHarp]

@@enduringcharm That's true. Thanks for the advice 👍

[@admin8446]

Awesome video. Pro tip: wear some gloves!!

[@enduringcharm]

Ha! I've long since lost any feeling in my hands.

[@serahtalu3858]

Thanks, I have a new sink that I mistakenly poured acid. Will try your method

[@enduringcharm]

Whether it works or not will depend on how deep the stain or etching has gone. You can always sand down through the metal and polish it again, but at some point it may become a lost cause.

[@meganwalker4544]

Might be a good idea to pick up a Food Grade stainless steel polish.

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not aware of any food-grade polishes, although there are cleaners. Presumably you aren't using your sink to prepare food, though, but to clean up afterwards. If you are attempting to polish stainless steel counters where food is prepared, you can still use the techniques shown here and then wipe down with a food-safe cleaner after the polishing.

[@yochevedshvarzblat1427]

Want to mention that that polish is LETHAL smells so bad and strong was having a hard time breathing!!!

[@enduringcharm]

Ha! Which one? Some of them contain ammonia which is probably what you are smelling.

[@yochevedshvarzblat1427]

@@enduringcharm I think it was that green bottle u used, I threw it out I was literally scared it was dangerous it was sooo toxic to inhale

[@enduringcharm]

Yeah, that's ammonia. Incidentally, if you've ever seen a TV show or a movie where somebody passed out is awakened by the use of "smelling salts," then you now know what that is like. Smelling salts are made with ammonia!

[@Nanabjfish]

NEVER use a steel wool pad!! Why? Because now you are introducing small pieces of steel, that you might not see, on to the surface of the sink, that will rust. Yes, stainless steel will rust if you introduced steel on the surface.

[@enduringcharm]

This is a common fear, but the reality is that any steel wool residue cleans off easily.

[@agalIam]

u should be wearing gloves!!

[@enduringcharm]

You could do that if you have sensitive skin. These automotive products are not corrosive, though.