Restoring A 97 Year Old Bandsaw (Part 1) // Oliver No. 192

[@johncallaway7410]

Phenolic gear. Sold by the sheet - it can get quite pricey, but as you can see - it holds up extremely well.

[@jkr3008]

yeah, it's phenolic textolite an interesting oldschool material

[@williamellis8993]

I also agree.

[@MattBarry1]

Man I am so glad I am not the only one who hates those 3 jaw pullers as well. I found that a slide hammer has worked as well when my jaw puller somehow traveled into my front yard.

[@Rufio1975]

They work just fine if you set the jaws even and maybe use some type of penetrating fluid ahead of time. Provided also you use the correct size also.

[@howardsmith5474]

Somehow 😂😂😂

[@DennisWhitexxDennisDWhite]

Andy, be sure to clean your shafts of all rust and paint before pulling pulleys or gears. They were assembled clean and smooth, they won't come off if they are not in the same shape as they were when assembled.

[@williamellis8993]

I can only guess (?) the means of propulsion.

[@deltamachine2059]

That is a phenolic gear, they are commonly used in metal Lathes as well. All the clausings Lathes i run have the same type of change gears for threading. Usually the phenolic gears will wear or break if something terrible happens saving the other parts of the gear train. Heat is your friend when pulling those types of things apart. Even just a butane torch that plumbers use. Warm up the hub while using the puller to expand the hub making easier to pull. The bearing on the shaft, flip it upside down and heat the inner racethen use two screw drivers to pop it off. Same with the one in the housing, heat up the housing and tap it out. Interference is minimal on those fits. Less than .0005. Half a thou maybe one at the most. You can buy those pulley blanks from mcmaser carr then just bore and broach the keyway. They may actually have it already bored and broached for nominal size shafts. Let me know if you need any parts made, I'm a machinist

[@walterrider9600]

thank you Andy . i was a machinist on a sub tender back in 72-76. replace all bolts and washers . steel becomes brittle with age . cast iron will not take cold exstreme do not freeze the cast iron but it will take heat , heat expands . good luck

[@ddan7]

I’ve got an old direct drive bandsaw that I’ve restored. It’s a 20” American Sawmill Machinery brand. The motor is a 3 phase 870 rpm 1 hp motor. You will want to stay around that rpm range to keep your surface feet per minute at a reasonable level. My bandsaw is around 4,000 sfpm which is about as fast as you would want to go. I think you might struggle to find a single phase motor with the right rpm’s. But that’s ok, because then you can learn how to install a VFD if you don’t have 3 phase in your shop. Keep up the good work!

[@raduvadan]

To answer the motor question - get any motor you like, mount it on a riser block to get it aligned to the shaft and then use an elastic shaft coupling to connect them together. Easy. Also, the shaft on the saw might need to be shortened.

[@dannyhale7645]

So, that first Oliver was a gateway drug, and now it's a full blown addiction. LOL! Cool saws.

[@stevem268]

i've rebuilt plenty of old woodworking equipment, my entire shop is full of old "arn". my 1915 crescent bandsaw is the oldest, the rest are 1930's to 1950's. the motors are all old too. heat will move a lot of stuff! you dont need a lot, a simple propane torch is plenty hot enough. heat will expand metal, so in the case of that bearing on the shaft, heat the bearing up. for the gear box bearing, heat the box, i have used a bbq in a similar situation. you can also use a dremel type tool to cut the bearing with an appropiate cutting wheel. yeah, 3 jaw pullers suck! a replacement motor may be tricky for the direct drive. induction motor are generally available in 1725 or 3450 rpm. you will want a 1725 rpm, judging by the gears. most motors, but not all, can be wired to run in either direction. there are standard "frame sizes" for motors which sets standards for mounting holes and shaft height from the mounting flange. i would be looking for a "period correct" motor, 1- 2 hp, single phase unless you have 3 phase power(unlikely) there are two websites you should look at, vintage machinery and owwm. vintage is a vast database of information, owwm is a well respected online forum dedicated to old wood and metal working machinery

[@exhstbearing]

I can appreciate being angry enough to pull out the power tools. Your patience far exceeds mine.

[@devinjones1182]

Try gently applying even heat to that small box casting, and then cooling the bearing with a price of ice or cold steel, the heat will cause the metal to grow a small amount and the cooling should "shrink" the bearing a small amount. Also if you can find an Arbor press it will work better than a screw driver to push out those bearings, but you might need to have a makeshift "punch" made to rest evenly on the side of the bearing, most arbor presses have square shafts. Also, Evaporust might be a good investment for those rusty parts, (I am a Handtool Rescue fan) it's skin/kid/animal safe and works pretty quickly to remove rust. I've used it on several old wrenches and sockets.

[@EvanDunville]

When i am removing pulleys i like to make sure the shaft is cleaned off well before trying to move the pulley down the shaft. Heat on the pulley and lots of lube also helps quite a lot. As for the Bearing. If they aren't damaged i would say just repack them and don't worry about it. If you need them off you should get #1 a blind hole bearing puller and a #2 a clamp on style bearing puller, much more user friendly than the 3 jaw you have. For the motor I assume you are going for a stand of some kind if so you can put a motor below and belt going up it would probably work well. If you want to go direct drive you may just need to make or buy a coupler. if you go the coupler route you cant adjust the motor speed with pulley sizes so maybe a 3 phase motor and VFD to get proper speed control. For me a belt / pulley drive just seems like less hassle. also double check the paint for lead!

[@richardguzman9658]

Ok, the strange gear is phenolic it’s a fiber impregnated with an epoxy resin, the material is fully machinable material ( smells horrible when cutting) makes a silent drive. The bearings can be pulled with a split bearing puller ( two semi-circular wedges that bolt together and use a two legged puller or a press ) ( see harbor freight). Bearings can all be cross referenced at a reputable bearing dealer … hope that helps. As far as the motor goes, you can go back to a coupler, but I would suggest a pulley and a 3 phase motor with a VFD so you can adjust speed…

[@christopherhachet5184]

I have the same saw. One of the best bandsaws ever made. I love mine.

[@AndyRawls]

Good to hear! I’m excited to get this back up and running.

[@tickfarmwoodworks]

Every time I see a refurb'ed piece of old iron equipment, I find myself thinking I'd love to have one/some. I've got the tools and knowledge. But this video reminded me that I want to work wood, not spin wrenches. Same reason I've never bought that 63-67 Vette I've lusted after for 50+ years. So thank you Andy, thank you for reminding me to "step away...".

[@cpsencik04]

These old tools are awesome. Love that you save them. And love the family fun rather than cussing at a stubborn machine

[@zebrone4837]

The best laugh I've had in a while was when you smelled the oil. What is that rotten smell? Epic. I'm halfway through a restore of a 1905 Crescent26" bandsaw. I feel your pain.

[@Shaka_Vibe]

That’s a Phenolic are awesome… super good shear force, and most importantly, QUIET!

[@leonardmort3216]

you can us the cut and chisel method to remove the bearing stuck on the shaft. if you choose that method wrap all exposed metal with masking tape so you don't hit anything you don't want ground down. I used a Dremel tool with flex shaft because better control but it takes way more time and eats a lot of the little wheels. cut opposite sides of the outer case most of the way through the place the bearing on a hard surface like a anvil use a cold chisel and a large hammer. the cuts and pressure on opposite sides will cause it to crack in half. or just go to auto machine shop with the new bearing have them press the old bearing off and the new one on. takes about ten minutes cost very little and you don't have to worry about scaring anything with a grinder. I have done it both ways depending on how much time and money I had at the time. oh and the phenolic gear is used because straight cut gears make more noise than angled cut gears so if you use a fiber gear you get less noise for less money than using spiral cut gears.

[@paulfreeland8927]

Your gear wheel looks like it's made of a phenolic resin composite. Various trade names for different types. Some use paper others use cotton sheet for the matrix. It's just like GRP but uses paper/cotton instead of glass fibre and phenolic resin instead of epoxy. Goes by the name of Paxolin, Novotext, Tufnol. Bakelite is an early version that used wood flour. Your example is probably Tufnol which is a laminated plastic available as sheet and rods, which is made from layers of paper or cloth which have been soaked with phenolic resin and pressed under heat. Its high resistance to oils and solvents have made it suitable for many engineering applications. Trade names may be different in the USA from the ones we use in the UK. WARNING wear a respirator if you cut this stuff. The dust that comes off is nasty and will do your lungs no good at all

[@olivier2553]

I think that Bakelite may be different: it does not have any matrix material inside and as far I I can remember, it is using formalin in the making process. I am pretty sure we had a demonstration in chemistry class when in high school.

[@jasonwithrow7972]

I suggest getting a normal motor with the same diameter shaft as what the driveshaft is and use a LoveJoy coupler to join or couple them together. It is a coupler that is made for this application, has some rubber in it to absorb some minor misalignment. You may need to make an adapter to fit the new motor as the height and spacing may be different to the mount that is on the saw. As for the phenolic gear, they are typically used to make the gear train quieter. Straight cut spur gears like that are pretty noisy. Also the work light is a Delta light and has some value to Delta machine tool fans. They are pretty when polished up.

[@thomasbailey8306]

The one bearing on that shaft they make a Bearing puller that slides in between the housing and bearing. Then it has threaded rod you tighten up then press it off with a Hyd Press. If you dont have that tool maybe a local machine shop near you could get them out for you. Then you could install them by putting the bearing in the freezer for a few hours and it will drop back on shaft in that housing .Great old bandsaw..

[@judebrown4103]

Well that was *not* like watching Hand Tool Rescue or My Mechanics!😄 It amazes me what you take on Andy, hope you get some answers to your questions. The only thought I had for removing those bearings was to ask at a bicycle repair shop if there is a particular tool for the job. 👍

[@Tuxedomakdarien]

You need a bearing splitter for the bearing that is on the shaft. For the bearing the the casing I would knock out the inner race and do tack welds inside the the outer bearing race which would pull in the race walls enough for you to pop it out.

[@bueller98S3]

Great saw. Try to find a machine shop. They can press off and press on the remaining bearings.

[@richs5422]

The gear looks like phenolic, a pretty strong material. If you're going to directly attach the motor shaft to another shaft, use a "spider" coupling rather than a hard coupler.

[@brentjenkinsdesigns]

Ya might have to try applying heat from a torch to make some parts move.

[@lcguitars2393]

You need a wedge type bearing separator for the first bearing you showed.

[@MgBaggg]

Hey, looks like you got your 3 jaw puller unevenly installed. It looks like it's in 2 jaw mode with an extra jaw on the side. Having the jaws in even thirds will make it easier. You can also snug up the joints, making them stiffer and thus stay in place better. Awesome tool you got there, looking forward to the next episodes

[@lv_woodturner3899]

The gear looks to be made of a resin reinforced fibreglass material called micarta. I think this was the original design for the part which was meant to fail if something seized up. You need to calculate the rpm of the original motor to determine if you can get a direct drive. If the calculations come out to some odd rpm, then you may need to consider 3 phase motor and VFD or DC motor and DC drive. I hope you can get the bearings out of the gearbox housing. Dave.

[@dennisatkins9837]

Rawls work working and restoration 😊

[@paulquentin9387]

The gear is made of phenolic, also called Celeron, it's a kind of resin impregnated mesh quite common on old machine tools ( they are quite a lot less noisy than metal on metal gears)

[@rickashford4005]

Phenolic is quite rugged as well.

[@christopheloraux5522]

got one of those in the engine of my renault dauphine. They were set to break at 50'000 km to prevent the other metal gears of the distribution to break! Also a similar one on my old Swedish drill press.

[@judebrown4103]

I thought it looked like Bakelite but knew that couldn't be right lol

[@SteifWood]

Celeron is just a trade name for cotton textile-phenolic resin, ie cotton-reinforced Bakelite. Other names are Turbax, Resitex, and Novotext. Bakelite is one of the first plastics invented around 1907 by the Belgian-American chemist Leo Hendrik Baekeland when he condensed phenol and formaldehyde. It was often used as gears in car engines' direct drive to the camshaft as it is flexible and quiet-running. Perhaps someone here remembers the old dial phones commonly made by Bakelite, and how many steering wheels haven't been made of steel reinforced pressed Bakelite?

[@judebrown4103]

@@SteifWood yes I remember the old Bakelite telephones, also there were light fixtures and fittings made of it here in the uk. There was all sorts of other stuff too like handles and knobs for furniture and appliances, cases for radios and early televisions. It was ubiquitous in the fifties and sixties but I didn't know it was used in gearing, couldn't believe it when it showed up in Andy's old saw, I'm guessing it must have been a failsafe device designed to break at over-speed.

[@dallasedc2976]

The gear is Micarta…knife makers buy them frequently to use as handle material for knives

[@fonziyo]

For the shaft bearing- get rid of the outer race and the balls, then flip it upside down so the inner race "hangs" then heat it and it will drop by itself, you can try cutting it but it's a risk of damaging the shaft. About the "case" bearing- flip it upside down again so it can fall out the case then heat up the case around the bearing and it will drop out. Hope i helped

[@solotraveler6025]

Hey, I had the same issue as you with the puller many years ago and while I was having that issue the Snap-On tool guy walked into the shop I was working in and saw me struggling. He gave me an adjustable elastic band that acted like a third hand while installing the puller arms, still have it thirty years latter and have used it probably some 100 times over the years. best free tool I've ever got.

[@Tomhohenadel]

Great find Andy. Looks like your weather has finally improved.

[@clydedecker765]

Bakelite or phenolic were used in early times. Today, Delrin or some such does the job. The problem with Phenolic is it tends to just "explode" into little pieces without warning but it is hard and very durable. Be sure to keep it well oiled in your case. Most machinist I've seen tend to try heating and cooling to loosen those bearings from their seats. They will also try using a press like the Dake arbor press to seat or unseat the bearings if they can rig a way to do it. Of course there is soaking it for a long time with things like Evaporust. You might try Justin at Good of the Land(KZbin) and of course Adam Booth and the Keith(s) - Rucker and Fenner.

[@Z0mbi3bait]

The phenolic gear could be an overload protection. That gear will break if the system is ever overloaded. I’ve seen that kind of mechanical protection in other appliances.

[@dakotamax2]

Propane torch works wonders to break a stuck part loose.

[@nathancameron9575]

You could look into internal bearing pullers, they hook in between the balls inside the races to pull out bearings from blind holes and such

[@rpnp2]

And a press door the one inside

[@tomsuica8731]

Same material as phonelic shims. that 19:26 and the bearing, go to a machine shop with a press. Or bang on sockets and extensions.

[@billblecher9215]

On that pulley puller get you a rubber band put around it at the end good rubber band

[@vettepicking]

You need a bearing splitter and a press to pull that bearing off the shaft. Harbor freight has them

[@rstevehole]

I've changes my bandsaw over to a variable speed DC motor. Very nice to be able to change the speed for different materials. I repurposed a 3.5 horse treadmill motor which worked good for my smaller saw but might not be enough for yours. Still it's easy enough to build a controller with parts off of ebay or Amazon.

[@timandpatstephenson2638]

The phenolic gear is made with a fine grade linen. Also found in old school circuit boards. Cheers from Winnipeg.

[@daddywoofdawg]

The gear is called Phenolic I think I know you can still buy the material. as far as the bearing use a press if you don't have one ask a friend or take it to most mechanic shops that have one.

[@akilheffer]

Hey Andy, you will find a bearing splitter set up extremely useful in future situations like that pulley removal!

[@pwitkop]

The original motor was probably direct coupled, if you wanted to do it the same way I'd look at the finger couplings (not even sure if that's the right name) that you'd use for a hydraulic pump - you can get whatever shaft sizes you need on either end. I'd say a bearing puller, which would clamp underneath would do that bearing on a shaft. Probably a brass punch will help with other bearing, that's probably just going to be a pain. Kieth over at vintage machine tools would know a lot about it and seems like a really decent guy

[@tinkermouse-scottrussell3738]

Andy, Phenolic Gears exhibit superior shear force, help reduce machinery noise, and absorb destructive vibration unlike metal gears, phenolic is non-conductive, protects the mating metal gear train, and are known to outlast metal gears under severe continuous service. Play safe from Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada.

[@AndyRawls]

I'm continually impressed with how much Canadians know!! I feel like we have a lot in common except I hate the cold. Thanks for the info!

[@tinkermouse-scottrussell3738]

@@AndyRawls, I have retired after 44 years as an Industrial maintenance mechanic / Millwright for a mining tools manufacturer. Every day was a learning experience; you had to adapt quickly, or you were left behind.

[@chuckpechan]

Congrats on finding this gem! Looking forward to your no-nonsense restoration! This will be, as you said, a fantastic partner to your big saw.

[@MatthewFleming4]

Andy, I would find a machine shop and see if they could press that one bearing out of that body and maybe they would have an idea of how to get that other one off that rod. Best of luck. Looking forward to the next video on this!

[@stuartstephens]

The gear is phenolic. They use it so the geartrain runs quietly. Heat from a torch may help release that one bearing from the shaft.

[@Stipurina]

Weld something on the bearings so you can pull them out. Or.... for the one on a shaft, you can brake it the same way as you did with the puley, cut a notch on oposite sides then put a sort of wedge in a notch then hit it with a hammer...it breaks like a glass.... And for the one in a housing, try to weld something in the inner race so you can press or hammer it out... use antispatter...

[@cameronwalker5078]

Andy, wrap rubber bands around the outside of the three legs, this pulls them together and helps hold them in place as you start to tighten the screw. 🙂

[@jacquestubeetvous4981]

Hey Andy, I'd try making bearing pullers. For the bearing stuck in the case, a shop made puller is pretty easy to make. Get a 6 inch bolt that is close to the ID of the bearing. Then get a washer that fits on the bolt that is close to the OD of the bearing race. Then get some heavy stock, like 1/4 or 1/2 that is approximately 1.5 inch wide by 8 inches (angle iron will work here too.) Drill 3 holes in that stock, 1 in the center that will fit your center bolt, and 1 on each end of the stock approximately centered in the ends. In the end holes, put a bolt through each attached by a nut above and below the stock. These will be the feet of your puller so the heads of the bolts should be against the case and the double nut should be at the cross bar. From the back side, put your 6 inch center bolt through the bearing so that the shaft of the bolt goes through the ID and the washer rests against the bearing race. Put the other end of that bolt through the center hole of your cross bar and tighten down a nut on the top side of your cross bar. As you tighten that center nut, it should pull the bearing. Hope this helps.

[@jimcarter4929]

As a tractor field mechanic (retired) we used some single use puller, destroys bearing though. Bearing in housing you need blind hole bearing puller with slide hammer. Field fix pull- weld rod with threads to bearing, plate with hole that can go over thread and nut, it will come out. Bearing on short shaft- bearing splitter. Field fix- weld two 3/8 inch all thread to bearing, "H" bar or plate with hole cut.in it nut and bolt. Hollow shaft so it would pay to use shaft protector or small plate, if using "H" bar drill hole in plate big enough to for pimple to center in. I have all the pullers you need but won't do you any good since I'm on west coast.

[@rvburbank1]

You'll need a bearing splitter for the bearing on the shaft. The other one maybe a slide hammer with the expanding bearing/bushing puller maybe. You could maybe use the expanding puller with some plates and threaded rod to get it out without all the noise

[@johntaylor1947]

use a bearing separator to get the bearing off the gear box the one weakness of a lot of bandsaws is the table trunnion don't plop a big heavy timber on the table that can break the trunnion. I love Oliver equipment.

[@adamschreiber959]

A bearing splitter for the bearing on the shaft, and a internal bearing puller on a slide hammer for the other bearing, The gear is probably Bakelite.

[@redknight1322]

Heat the bearing to a dull red and cool the bearing with water; it should weaken or break the press seal and pop out with minimal beating. The reason I said to heat it to a dull red is to avoid weakening the bearing housing casting. Hope this helps you out Andy.

[@scottbrodersen6819]

I lol'd when no oil came out of that gearbox (or whatever it is) 😄

[@emmengel]

The gear is made out of my Carta. It's a type of fiberglass resin product usually made with resin and wood resin and paper.

[@kreparAZ]

love these tool restorations! very cool. i love old tools. i did something similar to a late 80s i think JET bandsaw. took some time. lots of reading but was able to get good parts and get it working. cant wait to see this one working dude!

[@chrissargent1874]

The bearing stuck on the shaft, you try to pry it up with little screwdrivers to get it started then use a vise and a dead blow hammer

[@moro2711]

95 years and the wheel spins like new! Thats impressive

[@johnbaughman7281]

Looks like a phenolic resin gear. That material is used in aviation alot at least and im sure other places.

[@michaelboyet3341]

I had one of these oliver 192 that i completely restored and then sold when i got a bigger saw. wish i kept it. great saw

[@MCsCreations]

Fantastic find, Andy! Congrats! 😃 Looking forward to see more of the restoration! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@ThompsonsWorkshop]

Andy, the bearing on that shaft is a press fit. To remove, you can use two methods. A bearing puller clamps around the back of the bearing and you'll use a press. Or cut the bearing cage off, then cut about half way through the inner part of the bearing cage, then use a chisel to split the rest off of it. Same method is used to remove bearings off axle shafts.

[@devinjones1182]

You should be able to find a motor for that direct drive pretty easy, I think "US motor" will accommodate a very broad range of needs, you could focus on the shaft size and power range then shim the motor to fit the base. Or find a used motor online and have the shaft machined at a shop to fit the gears.

[@kylej7478]

Dude you should have placed the machine on its side so the shaft is vertical, then try pulling. Adding heat to the pulley could have helped. Not sure if you did, was too lazy to look back. Use a chisel to remove the bearing in the housing. The plastic/rubber on a screwdriver softens the blow which makes it a little less effective. I usually cut bearings off a shaft because I don’t have any other way. Cut the outer ring then the inner.

[@dimiglei3073]

First bearing i‘d cut with an angle grinder. First the outer ring an the inner you can cut just a little bit then you can tap it with a hammer and big screwdriver so it breaks.

[@deeranfoxworthy6069]

Dunno if it could help you out, but maybe take it to a bike shop and ask if you can use their Crown Race puller to get those bearings off the shaft? Crown races are pressed onto hollow tubes, so the puller is designed to pull them off that exact thing. Caveat: I don't think they'd be big enough to fit around that bearing. Maybe look them up and you could fabricate something similar to them? they're pretty simple devices that you could make with a couple of blade shaped wedges at the bottom with a pipe and a large nut welded to one end and a large bolt to go along with it.

[@josephkrug8579]

I had a similar bearing in a hole issue when I restored my walker turner drill press. A 'car guy' neighbor had an internal (ie arms go inside the bearing hole) vs external (like u used) bearing puller and that pulled it right out for me. So you might be able to find one of those to do it.

[@josephkrug8579]

Oh I forgot the important bit, how he pulled the pulley out, he used one of those slide hammers attached to an internal bearing remover. ie pull fast and when it hits the end of the stick, it pulled the bearing right out.

[@Coreyrkennedy]

Ahahahaha the scene change to the angle grinder is so relatable

[@normstavin6290]

sympathies for bearing and pulley removal..even with our perhaps 20+ pullers one still has to be creative, You need a knife edge bearing puller for the one seated against a surface. When you use the cast daddy long leg pullers move pivot elbow bolts to minimize leg length to make less wieldy. I keep elastic, or rubber bands handy and then use them to legs in

[@bigpat5819]

You need bearing seperator for bearings on shaft. also need to use brass or aluminum rods to knock bearing out so you do not mare the race. on how to get bearing out of casting. just like you were doing. unless you want to try and use a press to push them out, don't break the casting useing press

[@jbratt]

My favorite tools in my shop are restored Delta from the WWII era and within 10 years post the war. Delta is cool because parts are so easy to come by. OWWMs rule 👍😀

[@donaldtrabeaux5235]

Great video Andy

[@donl7940]

Like others have mentioned... add heat to the bearing thats on the shaft and add heat to the housing. As far as the bearing puller.... if you remove the short 2 inch "link" that is between the body and the jaws, that will help considerably by removing one of the pivot points.

[@mikebroadhead9875]

The gear is fiber reinforced plastic, also known as phenolic, also commonly used as timing gears in automotive engines. As for that bearing there is a tool that has two blade like plates that fit behind the bearing and allows you to pull it off that shaft.

[@stanmoore1943]

Bull gear looks to be made from Bakelite, a phenolic resin. You can try heating the cast iron slightly so that you can tap the bearing out easier, probably no more than 200 F should suffice. Do it quick so that cast heats up before the bearing heats up. Same goes when you install the new bearing, when talking only a few ten thousandths of an inch interference, delta T makes a big difference. Cool project , good luck.

[@jimcarter4929]

Reduces noise and vibration.

[@jsmxwll]

That looks like a phenolic resin gear. Those are typically a fiber reinforced resin, and very durable. As long as phenolic gears aren't overheated, they pretty much run forever. As long as the phenolic gear properly chosen for the task, it will perform as well as steel while being much quieter in most cases. Quality phenolic gears are not a cheap/low-cost option. In the correct application, they are quieter and long wearing with less play and easy maintenance.

[@Chris-ox7qx]

It’s phenolic 👍. Good stuff. Original. Also, heat (and cold) is your friend.

[@donaldpyles2891]

Andy that phenolic gear is there for a couple reasons, first it is much quieter then a metal to metal gear assembly. Second it will last for ever and third it require less lubrication then if it was metal to metal. Great video.

[@user-bz8ee7mj6l]

Это очень важно, не выжимать себя до последней капли в любимом деле, но прикасаться и вовремя отходить❤

[@cameronallen9948]

That gear looks like phenolic micarta, I've seen that done in the past. From google - Phenolic Gears exhibits superior shear force, help reduce machinery noise, absorbs destructive vibration unlike metal gears, phenolic is non-conductive, protects the mating metal gear train, and are known to outlast metal gears under severe continuous service.

[@olivier2553]

Supposedly, you could use a rubber band on the claws pulley puller tool to keep them in line. You can also try using an impact driver, so you only use one hand to drive the nut, the other hand can stabilize the tool.

[@timothyplumley8316]

Take those pieces with bearings to a machine shop. They can press them out.

[@joncarroll2159]

Harbor Freight has a Bearing Separator and Puller Set for $50. You can also rent them from auto parts stores.

[@joelnowland2196]

Over the past 40 or so years I have owned, perhaps, 10+ different bandsaws models and sizes and used others at places I have worked like a 36" Oliver and a 42" Tannewitz. At present I have a Mini-Max S-45 18", a Laguna LT-18, an old Makita 2116 16" re-saw from the mid 80s. I wish Oliver would ask me what a good bandsaw design should have. They probably won't ask, oh well !

[@zephyr1408]

Andy there is a YT channel & the proprietor name is “Mike Farmington” and he does very close to what you do (making very tech and beautiful pieces of furniture). He is in Colorado and within a 2 yr mark he restored fully a band saw similar to yours? From head to toe! I am certain if you reached out he would gladly offer anything he could? Warning? Might be a tad liberal? From So Cal and in the pot state from the pot state ? Never the less he is super smart! Smoke’em if you got ‘em !!

[@toadjam12000]

I have a 30 Oliver. It's a beast.

[@matthew4878]

those phenolic/fiberglass gears are common in machinery. I think it acts as a mechanical fuse.

[@richardbrooks3569]

Looks like a great saw. You might have tried a torch on that pulley.

[@augustwest8559]

I wonder if the motor was a love joy connection. The best way to find is buy the birth certificate from Straitoplane. I’ve worked on 4 Oliver jointers all direct drive. I think they are finest jointer ever made. Everything is made to be reworked. The oil bath bearings on the head are sublime.

[@adamchesis7443]

you're so lucky, I've been looking for a 192, forever, they're amazing, I am probably going to buy a 217 soon, if I have room at the new shop. to go along with my fay and Egan 36

[@fundi_mike]

Maybe it's ment to be a metal-cutting saw ? The reduction gearbox might reduce the surface speed enough that it's ment more for metal cutting than wood (not knowing the reduction ratio). If the saw model normally came with a direct drive, then maybe it was an optional extra for lower cutting speed (?)

[@ralphpavero7760]

You need a bearing puller set and the gear is a fiber type it's for noise reduction

[@Rufio1975]

A little torch will also loosen it up enough to remove the pulley.

[@daveweber1331]

Keith Rucker from Vintage here on YT would probably be a great resource to tap into. He may have a parts manual, and an owners manual online that you could download. That fiber gear is to dampen the vibration and the noise - two gears running at that speed would kick up a real racket, were they both iron. Quite jealous, Andy - of both your vintage Oliver bandsaws! 🙂

[@jeffcotton2235]

Use an arbor press to remove the remaining bearings. McMaster-Carr for replacement bearings and spring