Restoring a Beverly B2 Throatless Shear

[@rosseldred3054]

That center punch trick to remove the stuck allen head cap screw was super helpful! I was able to remove 2 of the 3 with an impact wrench, but the last one stripped. The punch did the trick. Thanks! -Ross

[@mustafadewalt5679]

You are an artist Jargl you dazzle us thank God we are watching daily videos you do not Toml

[@daveb.1828]

I spent 43 years working in a sheet metal shop, and have cut alot of stuff on a beverly just like that one! You would not believe the number of "newbies" that ive seen crack themselves in the head with the handle because they were standing in the wrong position! Good video!

[@carlwhite8225]

Nice find, Mine is a B3 and does 3/16 like butter down to thin aluminum, mine made in the 60S and paid a premium but use it often, loved the resto.

[@michaelscott8226]

Using the impact driver isn't lazy, Keith. None of us are getting any younger, so using something that causes less additional wear and tear on the ole' bod is SMART, not lazy. Shear looks great.

[@shannonstebbens6992]

I accomplished the exact same restoration project a few years ago on a Beverly #2. The only regret I have is that I couldn't talk my friend who owned the unit out of it when I finished. I am still looking for one for my shop. They work great! I do quite a bit of aircraft maintenance and they are indispensable for aircraft sheet metal (mostly aluminum) work.

[@jackel440]

Great restoration! I bought one from a school auction back in November and restored it as well. I found lots of scoring in the side plates from dust and debris getting between them and then being used. (School kids😞) I too had to file and then stone them as well. My blades were knicked really bad. A friend regrounds them best he could. I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who struggled to get the blades adjusted correctly. I actually ended up grinding a bit of an angle on the end were it wedges in. Otherwise when I tightened it up the blade wouldn't hold the clearance the whole length. I also greased my side plates and made a new knurled handle. Great video and keep them coming!

[@MyLilMule]

Neat trick on the stuck screws. I'll have to remember that. For allen key screws, I've had good luck hammering a disposable torx socket into it.

[@googacct]

I have had my Beverly shear for about three years and it has been invaluable for my airplane project. Much easier to cut parts like rib blanks than having to use hand shears. Maybe the next time you have the blade out you could put never sieze on the bolts.

[@gibbsey9579]

Good to see you joining in the comments again Keith.

[@paulteirney3587]

I used this tool for cutting 100s of segments of lobster back bends in my apprenticeship back in the 1960s and the tool was from the 40s. Greats tool to have and you did a great job to restore it.

[@mattthescrapwhisperer]

Great find; nice restoration. Spent many hours during my working life at the bench using a Beverly, and her cousin Jack. Must have shears for anyone doing lots of sheetmetal work.

[@lescotta7427]

About time with the power tool!!!!

[@krisnewman3202]

Good to see the shear restored and put back into use. I used the very same model for a few years as an Airframe Specialist in the Air Force. I still have a knock off in my own shop that is of excellent quality and has served me well.

[@jerrycoleman2610]

Keith, impressive restoration thanks for sharing.!.!.!.

[@jrneff9773]

in 1995 i was 19 yrs old started learning sheet metal layout this shear is the go to on transitions and square to rounds to make your parts thk you for this rebuild

[@flashgordon6238]

I have a B2A model. Normally these are mounted on a tripod stand, but I'm not a fan of those. There is a system that uses a wall, beam or bench mount called a Versa-Mount Swiveling Universal Mounting Plate. Sort of a telescoping Reese hitch square tube and receiver that has a plate for the Beverly Shear to mount on. The swivel has a locking handle. I use the platen on a horizontal belt sander and water to prevent temper loss followed by 400 grit wet sanding on a glass plate to sharpen the knives. Very easy to match the angle by hand using the wider portion of the knife edge.

[@Jeff_369]

Keith I appreciate your videos and the time and effort that goes into making them! Nice job on this restoration.

[@fiorevitola880]

Great shear tool your going to get plenty of use out of. keep on restoring those old tools they come in handy!

[@epbZ]

Nice job. I restored B3 shear a few years ago. It needed new blades which I got from the Beverly Company. I also got a new name plate for free. Give them a call. It would be a nice finishing touch.

[@Mekratrig]

Love the little things I learn from Keith. Like using a paint brush on cast iron, going to rember that one.

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice job.

[@RagsdaleCreek]

Nice addition to shop.we had one at work and I always wanted one at my home shop. 👍👍 Watching in Alabama!

[@anonymousgeorge4321]

Great video, Keith. Thanks

[@HandToolRescue]

That cleaned up great!

[@VintageMachinery]

Indeed it did! Very happy with it!

[@ruzziasht349]

Search "1930s Rusty Metal Shear - Perfect Restoration" to see how the Europeans do it.

[@19672701]

I had a Chinese knockoff of the b-1 and worked well,Always was in search of a b-2, which I thought would suit me best. A friend said he had one and it was a b 3,bigger than I wanted,rusted ball as I got it went and did a full resto ,sent my blades back to Beverley to be sharpened,I even got a new name plate with the pins,great company to deal with.

[@Jim-ie6uf]

Nice piece and restore.

[@makersmachining5408]

Was in their plant a few years ago...good old fashioned quality tools

[@odc43054]

Looks great!

[@jeffanderson1653]

Just finished a no1. Love it! $30 to have the blades professionally sharpened

[@rogerlove3151]

If you go look at the old blades the gap on the lower blade shows that they have been sharpened once or twice before. Nice job on the restoration i wish i had one for my shop.

[@louisnemick1939]

Keith another great video.

[@stevenmayhew3944]

That gear part with the handle stub looks like a hand!!! :) :) :)

[@ruperthartop7202]

Great video Keith. Thanks

[@bryanhedstrom7071]

I used to have a B3, it was stolen. I sure do miss that thing.

[@skeeter50001]

Great tool Keith, good score.

[@larrysmurthwaite773]

Wonderful,wonderful, wonderful.

[@ScottandTera]

That turned out better than brand new

[@ianbutler1983]

I hope you take this the right way Keith, but I prefer it when things don't go smoothly for you. I like to see how you solve problems....lol. Thanks for the video, I really enjoy your channel and I appreciate the effort you put into making them.

[@johnmanning4577]

Hope you and yours are OK from the winds, Keith....

[@kensherwin4544]

A tool I find very handy for removing stubborn screws is a manual impact driver with a 1/2" square drive on one end and a place to smack with a big hammer on the other. You twist it a little to turn the grip up an internal ramp such that the hammer blow provides both an axial shock load and a loosening torque.

[@davidhoward2237]

also doesnt hurt to hit few times with the hammer and use ur spray

[@TheAndybenton]

A manual impact driver is a great tool, vintage Honda motorcycles have JIS head case screws and they tend to corrode into the aluminum cases. Makes taking them out a breeze.

[@kejay74]

The ones I have (I believe) are from K-D Tools. Have 1/2", 3/8" & 1/4" drive units. Great tools (before the all too handy battery impacts) for their time. Still useful today!

[@shannonstebbens6992]

@@TheAndybenton I finally have a set of JIS screw drivers for the "Honda" work and you are absolutely correct in your comment. The JIS set that I have has a 'correct' impact driver as well.

[@TheAndybenton]

@shannon Stebbens. Proper JIS drivers have made my life so much easier in the shop. The same can be said for just about any tool when you've been using the wrong tool for the job for a couple of years, life changing lol.

[@coconutpie333]

i just got one -looks like new handle grip like new looking forward to cleaning up and mounting

[@randynewtonsr9659]

It’s good as new , I need to get me one of those, It’d make my work a whole lot easier!!!🙂👍

[@GibClark]

👍👍👍😯Love mine, haven't done a thorough cleaning yet

[@altonriggs2352]

That machine is built to last for generations...not like current crap. Looks great.

[@douglasbarnes3506]

Better than factory new. Outstanding!!

[@dinotom1]

Impact driver...right tool for the job at that point in time.

[@capitanschetttino8745]

Great job, really.

[@bat116]

Thats a sweet tool!

[@DoRiteFabrication]

Great job Keith! Glad those blades fit.

[@VintageMachinery]

They were PERFECT Jim! Thanks a million!

[@matttradie1341]

Nice. Such a handy thing to have. Prolly should have put some never sneeze on the blade screws this time tho.

[@grahamsengineering.2532]

Hey Keith great video. Just a heads up with those countersunk Allen Screws give them a good wack on top first up with a pin punch that is a little smaller in diameter to the head of the screw before trying to undo them. I find that usually works a treat.

[@ramsay19481]

I have a B3 which I have had for many years.. I think it is the largest of the Beverly series .. The B3 has a hold down mechanism to prevent distortion... When you need to cut sheet metal, the Beverly is the way to go.. Mike in Louisiana

[@VintageMachinery]

Those B3 units are really nice!

[@ramsay19481]

.Yes they are perfect for cutting sheet metal. About the only thing that will kill one is some egghead cutting something that is taboo....I have see that before....Mike in Louisiana

[@kejay74]

@@ramsay19481 What? You mean the likes of 3/16 (7 ga) 400 series stainless??? 🤔 😖

[@ramsay19481]

@@kejay74 That or some idiot trying to cut steel rod with it.. Some think Beverly shears are meant to cut hardened steel even...I have seen the best of the best..Mike in Louisiana

[@jonanderson5137]

For some parts with fasteners that you can't fit a vice and swing a hammer at. Auto center punch has helped me out big time, turn it to hardest hit and get it out!

[@Shockedbywater]

It's not lazy, it's working smarter not harder. (The impact drill)

[@ruzziasht349]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJm5loqrm6hne5I it's lazy.

[@DaleDix]

It won't come out ... Keith: where's hammer. Love it.

[@coconutpie333]

the one i found was a #3 and it works great as is but i am going to clean it up

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Your shear is very nice after restoring it. Congrats on having a new shop tool.

[@carldarlington7395]

The trick I have used is some grinding compound on a sheet of glass.

[@thomasvmanning]

Ain't lazy, it's efficient. I love my impact driver

[@wdhewson]

It's a clever tool Our grandfather's were plenty smart !!

[@jonanderson5137]

Some other guy restored one of these. Very cool.

[@morelenmir]

Absolutely *excellent* little project Keith!!! Very cool to see something that appeared so worn out and not much good for anything but the scrap-metal man come back to life so nicely. Oddly enough I very recently watched another chap on YT restore one of these, although his was in far worse shape than yours and needed a bushing added to the handle socket among many other stages. I look forward to seeing you use this in future videos. I wonder how old those replacement blades were? I'll bet they've been waiting to be fitted into a machine for a good few decades!!!

[@noelhenderson700]

We buy tools to use. The impact was obviously the right tool for the job at hand.

[@mattnoyes7729]

Its called the right tool for the job :-)

[@ron827]

Time is your best friend when using any penetrating oil.

[@gregworkshop5713]

hi very nice work

[@dougrobison1156]

Keith, There is nothing lazy about using an impact wrench ... rather it is getting the job DONE!

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Absolutely! It's a tool. Use it just like you use a hammer, wrench, or screwdriver.

[@jonka1]

Only it didn't get the job done on two of the screws, instead it quite predictably stripped out the hexes. So I call it lazy not bothering to think through the stresses on the metal and shock them free first instead of later.

[@Ryan-lz8zm]

Never seen or used that punch technique to get a screw out, genius

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Like Ken Sherwin commented below, the manual impact driver is the way to go.

[@sharkrivermachine]

A great little shear, I am going to have to put one on my search list.

[@VintageMachinery]

They are nice tool no doubt!

[@paulbarton397]

This brings to mind my tune up of a throatless shear that I bought new at Hazard Fraught. All I had to do was re-mill, re-bore, and re-bush the castings, and relocate the movable blade, not to mention stoning the sliding surfaces. Then I had me a real nice shear. Their selling price would be reasonable for the rough castings. And that"s what I got.

[@googacct]

I wish that HF would just sell everything disassembled to save everyone the trouble of performing that step.

[@piccilos]

the table/body on that would make for an interesting casting

[@Gdsmith504]

Keith, there's another youtuber named "my mechanics" who did a restoration on a Beverly shear about a month ago. I'd like to hear how your restoration differed from his and constructive criticism regarding both projects. I personally enjoyed your commentary on the project versus his silent video, but would like to hear your professional opinion.

[@Gdsmith504]

For the record, until he does a 28" monarch, i give you the mastering opinion of craftsmanship.

[@VintageMachinery]

Honestly, I have not watched his video. Did not know it even existed before everybody pointed it out. I need to go and watch it I guess....

[@davegower123]

Not laziness... Efficiency!

[@tedsykora1858]

Nice little restoration. Did you consider a dab of "never seaze" (spelling) on the blade screws. Messy stuff but maybe worth using. Good point about suggesting a simple restoration for anyone just getting started with restoration work.

[@johncloar1692]

This Video gives me the fever for a shear like that one. Grate Video, Thanks!

[@VintageMachinery]

I think I am going to love mine!

[@henryD9363]

Is that biggest piece one single casting? Can't imagine how you could possibly cast something like that. Amazing

[@jackel440]

Yes they are one piece and heavy

[@ronbellaire9329]

You should see the restoration on My Mechanics. Turned his Beverly shear into art. (You tube)

[@davidwright640]

Great tool to have around and such a simple design.

[@stefantrethan]

Nice save on the screws. Those countersunk ones make me uneasy even without rust, the hex is a couple sizes smaller than on a normal socket head of the same thread, making it way undersized for the thread part, let alone the huge contact area of the head. Can't help but feel in this particular case allen heads offer no improvement over a simple slot, probably best to give them a few knocks before even attempting to turn them. We have mostly Peddinghaus shears over hear, don't look as elegant, but work fine. Every shop should have one.

[@bobuk5722]

Battleship grey paint was widely used after both World Wars folks. There was a lot of it going cheap! Interesting seeing/hearing the flat stones in use - you can hear the difference as the surface quickly flattens down even via KZbin and my tablet's limited audio. BobUK.

[@VintageMachinery]

Those precision flat ground stones are just so awesome!

[@aserta]

My uncle had something like 50 cans of 5 liters of German paint left over. Most of it went bad, cans' bottom rotten out, but i still use some from time to time whenever i repair or refit a machine.

[@frankdeegan8974]

Don't worry it comes through my big screen tv too.

[@bobkelly2447]

Keith ! don't mount that shear on the welding bench because you'll have big heavy things you gott'a set on the welding bench ! mount it on the bench you were working on or make a single pipe stand ! (witch would be better by far !) when you need a shear like that you need room around it because of the big size of the sheet metal.... a single 4" pipe stand is best and it won't clutter or restrict your already valuable table tops ! no matter how big the shop table top space is at a premium ! LOL Bob.......

[@VintageMachinery]

Good idea!

[@bobkelly2447]

@@VintageMachinery I want one like that that will cut 1/4" steel ....is there such a beast ? I've never seen one ! I have cut 1/8" steel on a sheer like that but it was a struggle and really didn't want to do it ( making medieval armor ) but it finally broke ! so I cut the rest with a cold chisel ! ..... Oh and your method of using a punch to remove those stubborn screws has always worked for me ! it's not "professional" ....but it's a heck of allot better than a drill and tap ! eh ? little tricks like that is what watching your videos really stand out as the best on the web ! many young guys don't know that trick and instead buy expensive extractors that never work . LOL....Bob......

[@classicrestoration]

I initially mounted mine on the corner of the welding table but found it was often in the way. I ended up welding two 1/2" steel rectangular plates in a T shape and bolting the shear to the top flat plate. When needed, it mounts quickly in one of three large vises around the shop.

[@m2hmghb]

One thing I've learned is that sometimes you can get lucky and get a torx to fit a stripped allen. Doesn't always happen and doesn't always work, just another way to do it.

[@kejay74]

@ m2hmghb It is (almost) always better to be "lucky" than "good"! LOL!

[@welshpete12]

For British watching, mineral sprits is known as white sprits in the UK.

[@1jtolvey]

GREAT JOB ! NO LUBE ??

[@stephenland9361]

"Pure laziness" is not a description I would use for you, Keith.

[@one4stevo]

Looks great do you find the paint is soft and easy to scratch for the first 4-5 weeks. i painted a tool cabinet and found that out. not sure if it was the brand of paint i used but now it's very strong. Great restoration and video Keith

[@VintageMachinery]

You might want to look at adding a hardener to your paint. It will help it cure much faster.

[@bendavanza]

That spray would work a lot better if you sprayed down the fasteners overnight first, but you certainly know that. I'm guessing you were excited to get started. I have the Harbor Freight version and it's a very crude copy. The lower blade bed is a bumpy crusty mess and the upper moving assembly is very sloppy. It cuts pretty well, though after spending some time setting it up. After watching your video with the real deal Beverly I think I can improve my cheapo to be a little better. Last time I checked, Beverly is still in business in the original factory making these amazing shears. Perhaps I will pony up for the genuine article to help keep these businesses alive before they are all gone.

[@orange5fox]

I've come across a lot of countersunk hex bolts that have seized, and on almost every one it's just been the head, not the thread, that's stuck. I'd suggest a dab of copper grease on them as a preventative measure, I'm doing it as a matter of course now, as the component's they're holding won't take kindly to any impacts.

[@PeterColmore]

On these old painted items or tools they more than likely have lead paint on them so i hope you used breathing gear or kept the dust down somehow

[@MrSpad007]

If you had a wood shop you could make a box for the precision ground stones.☺

[@VintageMachinery]

Its on the list....

[@NathanOkun]

Small comment: If you mount it on the corner of your work bench, you might have some possible problem with that long lever arm staying vertical and out of the way if, say, you were carrying something that bumped it. A small wood block with a notch in it could be put in the blade opening to hold it open at a desired position so accidentally bumping the lever arm will not move it.

[@ziggyr1]

A+ Beautiful restoration job thanks Keith/

[@Bookerb2004]

Cool

[@robertmalis4493]

Hey Keith I love using never sees on things specially items that you know you’ll have to take apart have you ever used never sees on your restoration projects just curious

[@bobthebuilder6315]

Were did you get the blade's/cutters at, I have one of these b3 Beverly's I use it all the time. But it could really use a new set.

[@bcbloc02]

They make cut off wheels and grinders for those bolts that are too long. Trim to fit. :-)

[@VintageMachinery]

Good point! But what I really need is a box of bolts the correct length to go in my bolt bin....

[@ScottandTera]

An acorn nut will be the cats meow..

[@lewiemcneely9143]

Hammers! Custom by crash!

[@fasousa4798]

No bolt is ever too long, can't say otherwise though

[@stephenwilson7641]

Hi Keith -- thanks for another great refurb video. I have a question - not a criticism - why no anti-seize on the new screws that hold the knife?

[@fluffyzia]

If one worked in a paper mill one would know all about anti-seize.

[@jesusjacobo3423]

Hello Keith I have been watching your show for the last five years and Love your show I’m not a machinist. But recently I have purchased a Putnam lathe. It does need some restoration but everything is all there I don’t know where to go to get some of the stuff I was wondering if you can help me out getting my lathe restored

[@johanvansteenbeeck8608]

Hi Keith, nice project. Noticed you didn't prime the cast metal before painting. Is there any special reason why you do this ?

[@VintageMachinery]

I rarely prime rough castings. They don't need it - castings already have enough rough texture for the paint to adhere to!

[@johanvansteenbeeck8608]

@@VintageMachinery ok, now I understand. Thanks a lot.