Restoring an old Coleman stove part 3A

[@timmynormand8082]

That's for all the information mr Coleman. You were very helpful

[@vonpredator]

Outstanding Video! I’m a Supply Officer for a Army Cadet Corps. This is a excellent guide for training and explanation on the Coleman we use all the time. One quick trick to test the pump valve is you screw in the pump stem and pump, if you feel resistance you know you seal is good. My mantra when instructing cadets on the function of these stoves. “There is no problem on a Coleman stove, or lantern that can’t be solved by pumping more!” Keep up the great work!

[@maehay4065]

My dad always took care of our old Colman camp stove and I’d watch him take it apart to clean it. I remember watching how he got out the needle to either change it or soak it. I wish he would have let me help him more. But I learned how to cook using these wonderful stoves. We also had an oven we used for baking biscuits and cornbread for many years. My dad seemed to have a second sense when it came to any type of mechanical work. All without any formal schooling until later he went to a community college to learn about Ford Cars. I remember the big thick books that one was for looking up different parts to fix a Ford. Just like your work with Colman stoves which are very detailed so if someone wants to learn more then they can watch all your videos Sir. 👍👍

[@lindaschmidt27]

Bob, Your video was so helpful. I have two of my dad's stoves, and I'm working on one now to bring it up to snuff. It was helpful to go through video 1, 2, 3. I'm a little intimidated to work on cleaning the tank but I'll take my time and use this stove on my camping adventures. Thank you!

[@XtianApi]

Why don't more people watch this series. It is wonderful thank you

[@jackorlando2668]

Aa

[@jamesschneider3828]

Very poor echoes audio, can't watch

[@Valerifon1]

I recently purchased a 425F in mint condition on eBay. When I received it, I found the pump plunger couldn't push air into the tank. I took your advice and picked up a beautifully made tool for removing check valves. The gentleman who machined it included a threaded rod that went down the center of the tool and engaged the check valve. Removing the check valve with this tool was a breeze! I found that the little ball bearing had some green corrosion and was fused in place. All I had was 99% isopropyl alcohol but it did the trick! Installing the check valve was simple! The whole job took maybe 15 minutes and my stove is working like new! Thanks for your videos!!! Cheers - Luther

[@damnedjose]

thanks so much, mr. sagebrush! i enjoy your thorough, clear, concise, yet easy going explanations. coleman stoves are as american....gosh,.... as apple pie. let's be honest here!!!! their ingenious prelighting system is pretty awesome, and has stood the test of time. heck yeah, dude!

[@lunabeta3516]

Have had my stove for awhile and decided I need to learn how to use it. I love this channel! Best information. Ty

[@Riflechair]

This was great Bob - thank you and Merry Christmas

[@timrogers2638]

I took one of these apart for the first time today. After two tries of completely loosening the generator tube, I noticed that just beyond the threads, there's a bit of a bulge on the end that goes into the valve body. It's a bit unnerving to do at first because one doesn't want to deform the brass, but a firm tug will pop it loose. Similarly, a firm push will reseat it before threading the tube back into the valve body.

[@buckaroundandfindout]

Much love man.

[@thomasgibbons4551]

Terrific videos!!! Highly Recommended!!!

[@seektruth3307]

Awesome. Even though I am kind of mechanically inclined I am always uneasy taking things apart for the first time so this helps me a great deal!

[@GeorgiaRidgerunner]

hey bob i have a coleman 426 e stove i believe it to have been manufactured in 1963 i saved it from going to the landfill when i got my stove home it had coleman fuel in it no idea how long on a whim i decided to try to light the stove in as found condition ...it worked absolutely normally i then used said stove for probably three years on gasoline untill the generator clogged im just now getting around to attempting a repair thanks to your series i now know what im getting into thank you for a great and informative series ..

[@walleyeye]

Apparently coleman fuel lasts A LONG time without going bad like gasoline would.

[@GeorgiaRidgerunner]

@@walleyeye I think your right but I'll add That gas going bad in a cole man stove probably wouldn't be much of a problem Note since I posted this video I gotten the old coleman going again And I do use it But my stove has an odd quirk It has always flamed up when starting usually about a foot and half to 2 ft flame then it dies down and burns normal like a propane stove Do you have this issue

[@walleyeye]

@@GeorgiaRidgerunner it flames up but not quite that high. I still have some cleaning to do.

[@taylorcassidy2616]

Thanks for being ao detailed in your descriptions.

[@charlesfields878]

Hey Sagebrush Bob. I just finished replacing the check valve and air tube on my Coleman 413E camp stove and I went step by step with these two videos. Thanks for posting. I never could get the body part out the tank so I stopped there. I used a vice but it just wouldn't loosen. I was afraid I would damage it. I put it back together and it works better than when I got it. Thanks.

[@abdullaex4119]

Good vid but must chime in again. In my case on one of my stoves. The fuel tank was rusted. Generator leaking and questionable. Too many small parts to fail. Absolutely too expensive to buy original parts. Successful solution was to convert to propane. Cheaper and safer. After a complete and intense cleaning, some paint, stove works like a champ. It would be great to have an original, complete stove. But cost, and most important safety, the propane generator is the way to go. And I refill my cans. So cost is minimal. I love those old stoves and lights. Yes Butane/Propane has its faults. But if there is a safer way to distance myself from gas fuels. So be it. Great job showing the break down and the parts. Many thanks. Peace from Texas

[@popcatzoo]

0:54 is this true of the 413 as well ?

[@Alphastarcar]

Thank you for explaining the differences in the fuels that the stove can burn.

[@kevinburgess6112]

thanks for the great informative video, every coleman owner should in fact watch this. very good video thank you👍

[@bernardchartier3526]

Very well explained. Makes it easy to understand even if English is a second language for me. Thank you for posting.

[@5USgRWFH]

My Coleman 413-E has the copper-colored tank. I recently noticed that the control valve is getting difficult to turn. It does not turn smoothly or easily as it did before. Do I need to replace the packing or is there another method to free the valve up?

[@thomasliguria2991]

I have a question for you I have a Colmen Stove 414 the canister has two little pinholes at the top can I weld those or Apoxsee them somehow or what do you think

[@mikeb6389]

Very good.

[@xe1hhm]

Hello when I injected pressure on the tank. Pull gasoline through the key

[@jimlockerbie4142]

Can you convert a 413F stove into a dual fuel?

[@pekemo]

Nice job. Thank you Bob.

[@alexwilson207]

Awesome video! I just got 2 of these for $15 and they need a little work not a lot. Can't wait to use them!

[@cardiocasey]

Hey I have a 425 F. No spring. Do I need to buy one.

[@pvman2]

Where does one find gasoline without ethanol and the other detergents/additives? I've never seen anything like that.

[@glenstamate7990]

What can I use to clean other than brake cleaner for the valve component's?

[@jarikinnunen1718]

I use small engine fuel. It is clean and less smelly than recular gasoline. It made for more human friendly and stable. You can wash most of addives out of recular by water. Shake and let to come clear.

[@rickholmwood2000]

Hello sir I just purchased a 426d 66' and I am ashamed to say I broke the pricker rod off where it threads into the brass fuel metering valve. The piece with the knob attached and the tapered seat at the end. Can I use parts off a 2 burner stove? Broaden my search instead of just searching 426d

[@MarkSDCA]

Thanks for doing these videos. I think I have a model 413D with the round cylindrical fuel tank and seamed end caps. Do you know if this is the 413D model and if so how old would this be. A friend of mine wants me to leave it to him in my will ! He said the fuel tank is copper. Thanks again.

[@we7438]

Thanks for these vids, Sir. Could you use Hoppe's #9 on the scotch pad and the rod/spring to clean the gunk? Just curious. Thanks.

[@redoak3809]

Can you replace the generator on an old stove with the newer "multi-fuel" generator? Do you have paint colors for the tanks?

[@walleyeye]

Yes. Paint colour would be good. I’d like to paint my tank but dont want to use the wrong colour.

[@Lasurge1982]

Where would you get the rubber gaskets for the fuel cap ? I need one for my stove ? Hardware store ?

[@DAS-Videos]

My heat generator spring was all gunked up and stuck in the tube. I heated the tube cherry red with a propane torch to burn out all the gunk, and the I was able to get it out. I still can't figure out a way to clean out the inside of the tank other than to let brake cleaner soak in it.

[@davidanthony129]

Stagebrush, you did a fantastic job and very meticulous. You must be part German? I rebuilt a June -76 model 245 after seeing your work including the gas tank cleaning of rust with BB's. I removed a lot of rust/dust after 2 long shaking sessions with about 300 BB's. Then used a vacuum and a blower & rinsed the tank several times with regular unleaded. I happened to have a very small shaft magnet attached to a pencil to help me retrieve BB's. It was really dirty "gunked-up" and apparently never cleaned. The only thing I could not un-seize was the 1/2" brass block from the gas tank. I used various penetrating lubricants but it wouldn't budge so I ended up doing everything but cleaning the lower intake brass. I even tried the Vise technique and I was afraid of twisting & distorting the brass itself if I applied any more torque. The leather pump was still good so I left it after cleaning the brass & pump tube shaft. I also found a VHT silver paint at Walmart that was 20,000 degree F cert. I couldn't find another Decal to go on the back wall of the wind shield. Thank you for your work. Is there any way to prevent more rust from developing inside the tank?

[@jaymonroe8050]

I am unable to get the spring out. Any tips?

[@DAS-Videos]

I got the check valve out with a large screwdriver without any problem. I put the screwdriver in a bench vice, lowered the tank on top of it an felt when the screwdriver was securely in the slot, and then held the tank firmly and turned the tank. My main issue is that my tank is gunked up. Fuel was left in it for about 30 years.

[@seektruth3307]

I use a piece of rubber off of an old inner tube when I need to grip something and not mar it. Works nearly every timw.

[@joemama22]

It takes a very long time for regular gasoline to plug up the generator... I have hundreds of hours on my stove generator and there's no performance drop off yet... It's been years... The same goes for my lanterns.

[@DR-zj4od]

My valve/wheel assembly leeks a very slow series of fuel drops out next to the knob end. I have taken it apart and cleaned it, is there a rubber washer that goes in there to stop the fuel flow out the wrong end? Is there a way to stop the flow ? I do have the brass washer in there but it looks like there is a location for a rubber washer?

[@louisedemontigny5110]

If you can’t tighten just a bit to get the drip to stop, your graphite packing may have failed. There are videos on doing this repair too.

[@thomasleach8356]

do you know what color that red tank is the krylon color

[@sagebrushbob2321]

Krylon "Apple Red".

[@pghardin]

Hello Bob, very good videos. Thank you. I bought a "like new" two burner, but didn't notice that that the valve had no knob. The threaded end looks bent, so I'm guessing the stove may have fallen on the knob and cracked off. On the bottom of the green case is stamped 79. It has the fill cap in the middle facing the stove, so I'm guessing it's post 77. I think I need a new valve assembly. Any ideas on where to get one? Is this a 425 model? Thanks! Paul

[@charlesfields878]

I am using your video instructions to try to get my campstove back in use. I use it everyday but have neglected to maintain it as I should have. It has always worked good but recently I cant get a very high flame. I took it apart and cleaned everything very good but the spring in the generator tube won't come out. I used carburetor cleaner and tried to push it out with different things that would fit down in it. Can you give me any ideas to get it out to clean it? I can't afford to get a new stove at this time. Thanks for any advice you can give me.

[@masoncolbert8285]

I've got the same issue with the spring on model 425B. Seems it's rusted in pretty good, can't move it. For now I've plugged one end and filled it with penetrating oil and will let it soak (for days, if necessary) and see if that will break it loose. Any other tips or advice appreciated.

[@masoncolbert8285]

The method of heating and cooling the generator tube (see post below) worked for me!

[@guillermo9597]

Thank you for this series on repairing my old Coleman 3 burner stove, 426B. I was able to rebuild all the parts, except one. The gas filler cap gasket is not holding air. I tried to remove the brass screw to remove the brass insert holding the gasket with no luck. Does this screw remove? There is no date stamp on the tank, so I don't know how old it is. My father-in-law used this stove in the mid 1960's. Any help would be appreciated.

[@sagebrushbob2321]

The best thing you can do is replace the cap with a new one. Coleman still sells them on their parts website, or you can find them on ebay.

[@miked7205]

Any tips for removing a stuck spring in the generator? I have a 424 I picked up and the spring doesn't slide out, soaked it in carb cleaner, etc.

[@team3383]

let it soak. I've never had one of these clog up, and I've been using it with whatever gas is available for hmmmm the best part of 35 years. Never cleaned it either.

[@miked7205]

@@team3383 I've got it soaking in vinegar for the last day or two but no progress. I'll let it soak in the parts cleaner maybe that might be better for the gunk.

[@team3383]

@@miked7205 if you have any WD40 or can get a friendly squirt from a neighbour. Its made for that kind of "crisis" and it also leaves no deposit and burns very well. Wish you all the best.

[@KJ4RMZ]

I have a 425B with a tank that looks like the copper one...with the screw inside the fill cap. Yet mine is red in color. What can you tell me about it?

[@Golfingferdie]

Hello Sagebruch Bob, I found one in the trash a few years back and am finally getting to it, The tank says and shows Coleman and has what looks like a sunrise on it. Rust ans dirt cover the Model No. its like yours you have but no Plate covering the bottom Burners and Control for The Two Left Burners are in front of burners. Pretty sure all work the same way. The main Burners are cast Tank is copper getting a replacement pump for it. Wondering if you know what year it is ?? Thank You.

[@PSN7373]

The year is on the underside of the tank lip where is sits in the holder

[@PSN7373]

Where it sits .turn upside-down

[@chrispaul6290]

Hello, and thanks for these Coleman stove videos. My wife and I have a Coleman from the early '80s which wasn't working very well. We cleaned it up following your videos. When we tested it, it worked all right for a minute, but didn't have enough pressure, so we tried again. Then it flamed along the long tube and not in the burner at all. It got a little scary. Any tips on what to do to correct that? Thank you.

[@Krankie_V]

The little needle at the end is bent and making my stove unpredictable. Does that bit come with a new generator?

[@escapetherace1943]

yeah it does

[@Krankie_V]

@@escapetherace1943 I found that out haha bought a new generator, installed it and fired the stove up. Worked fine on high but had issues on low flame with it just dying down for no reason. I put some serious effort into getting the old generator apart, cleaning it, and straightening the needle and now my stove works quite well. The new generator sucks!

[@escapetherace1943]

@@Krankie_V Nice, I just picked up one of these stoves for 25 dollars in decent condition. Seemed to burn pretty decent but I may just clean it so I know I'm good for years

[@Krankie_V]

@@escapetherace1943 yeah I'm looking for another. Shipping kills the deal on eBay however I have found several on Craigslist for under $30 so I will probably get my next one that way. I did however just offer on a 502-700 single burner sportster stove on ebay yesterday and got it, so I'm a bit excited for that one. They aren't cheap but they are quite neat!

[@escapetherace1943]

@@Krankie_V you probably outbid me! (kidding) Yeah check out CL and other local market sites (i hate it but facebook's good for it too)

[@bonniedipasquale8601]

Hi Bob. I'm having an issue with a yellow flame on my Coleman 413H (stamped 3 85 on bottom). I was starting the stove as instructed, and around 50% fuel flow, I would begin to get a yellow flame. I followed your instructions to clean the generator. It wasn't terribly dirty. Afterwards, I again lit the stove and now find it's burning better. However, I do still get a yellow Flame between about 65 % and 85% fuel flow. Under 65% I get a blue flame and over 85% I get a blue flame. I am burning new Coleman fuel. Also, found opening up the axillary burner tends to get rid of the yellow flame. Thoughts on what my next step would be? It's usable but not burning optimally.

[@duderama6750]

Thanks Bob, now I know what's wrong with my stove. A loose nut behind the pump!

[@laishmorse4668]

I have a 426D that I am getting ready for camping this summer. I'm having an issue where the fuel is leaking out of the generator end and dripping slowly onto the drip tray when the valve is off. Releasing the pressure stops it, but I don't believe it should be doing that. Any idea where that may be coming from? I removed the gas valve knob and generator needle and clean it per your instructions. Thank for these great videos.

[@sagebrushbob2321]

It sounds like you may have an issue with the mating surfaces of the valve itself being dirty or worn. Look closely at the tapered surface of the knob/generator needle piece at the place where the needle attaches to the valve stem. If it is anything other than smooth and clean it might need replaced. Also look inside the valve body where the needle assembly came out of with a light. There will be another tapered surface in there like the one on the needle assembly. The same rules apply. It should be clean and smooth. These valve surfaces are just brass, so they do wear out over time.If either one of them is excessively worn or damaged you will need to replace them. Oldcolemanparts.com will have either piece, or the whole valve assembly if you need them. Good luck with the repairs.

[@brookeray1584]

Hi bob, i have unthreaded the tube that carries the fuel (and holds the print) but can’t get it off. This is the part where you paused and removed it off camera. I have tried unthreading for a LONG time, pulling and jiggling to no avail. Any suggestions? I’d really like to be able to check and clean the spring.

[@brookeray1584]

Oops - -holds the spring, not “print”.

[@714jk]

Unscrew the nut just behind the burner knob and remove the needle first. Then try the generator tube.

[@rbarker4488]

mine has round tank any idea what year?

[@sagebrushbob2321]

If your tank is round, with the pump on the end of the tank, you have one of the very old (pre WWII) stoves. They are becoming quite rare now.

[@chrisdalti6041]

Hi and thanks for the info. I have a 413f and figured out it wasn't adomizing. Took apart the generator tube and got needle out an clean but spring is stuck in tube. Any advice on how to get it out? Thanks

[@714jk]

Hold the tube with long pliers, use a propane or MAPP gas torch and heat it up, then plunged into cold water. Tap the tube, listen if the coil vibrates inside. If not, repeat heat/cold cycle until you do. When you hear it, use a pick tool to rotate coil inside tube. When it's moving, pull out with pick. Then clean with .22lr gun cleaning brush and solvent.

[@masoncolbert8285]

Thanks for this tip -- should have thought of it. This did work for me. Took at least a dozen cycles to get the spring to come out, it was really corroded. After running a .22 gun cleaning brush with solvent through it (about 100 times) the spring now slides smoothly into the tube. I re-assembled and fired up the stove (just to make sure it was going to work, which it does) so now it's on to further cleaning and painting to restore this 50 year old marvel!

[@teamperry757]

A large 3/8" screwdriver pressed firm on the check valve and turned with a wrench on the screwdriver shaft will remove the check valve.

[@TheIrishAmish]

Did I miss the part where you talk about the graphite valve packing? (I found out the hard way today,,,,,)

[@walleyeye]

Not all stoves have that. Mines a newer dark green stove with red tank and it doesnt have it.

[@johnbailey2034]

Have you ever tried the propane adapter ?

[@sagebrushbob2321]

Yep. Actually, each of my three 'in service' stoves has its own adapter. They make it a lot easier to use the small 'warming' burners if you are making more than one thing at a time. Gasoline is great, but it doesn't provide enough pressure at the warming burner to use it for real cooking. Propane is much better for that.

[@alexisrobles9124]

Gracias muy bien

[@thomasackerman3995]

If you use brake cleaner use non chlorinated. Chlorinated when heated makes phogene gas when heated..it kills. Laquer thinner is awesome for cleaning due to slow evaporation and is great for dissolving glues etc. Not sure how safe that is but most of its ingredients are in gasoline anyway.. Acetone is safetest I think for general cleaning.

[@curvenut]

Where can you find non ethanol gas ? All car are running on ethanol-gasoline mix at every gas station. Thanks for response

[@sagebrushbob2321]

Look for any place that sells fuel for small engines and boats. Things like off-road motorcycles, lawn mowers, snowmobiles, generators, and power boats all need non-ethanol gas. Regular pump gas will damage their fuel systems.

[@gregross7290]

use Google maps and search for "ethanol free gas"

[@detleftrommler5329]

Hello, I´m trying to restore my 424, but the spring won´t come out of the generator. It stucks in some way. Do you have any tip for me how to get the spring out? Thank you in advance.

[@sagebrushbob2321]

First, try unbending one end of a paper clip and bend a hook on the end with a pair of needle nose pliers. then use the hook to reach in and grab the spring. If its still stuck, clamp the tube in a vice and unscrew the brass fitting on the nozzle end. Be careful.. there is a very small brass orifice fitting inside there, and it can easily fall out and get lost. Once that is off, you can use a long, skinny screwdriver or a small wooden dowel to push the spring out. clean all the parts with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner before reassembling. Good luck!

[@detleftrommler5329]

@@sagebrushbob2321 Thanks a lot. It helped to unscrew the nozzle part. Feather stucks still in the tube. I filled it up with some rust-remover. Maybe it helps. If not I will use Petroleum or something else like it to dissipate the tar or what it is. The needle was black too and it was very hard to "scotch" it off.

[@714jk]

Hold the tube with long pliers, use a propane or MAPP gas torch and heat it up, then plunged into cold water. Tap the tube, listen if the coil vibrates inside. If not, repeat heat/cold cycle until you do. When you hear it, use a pick tool to rotate coil inside tube. When it's moving, pull out with pick. Then clean with .22lr gun cleaning brush and solvent.

[@xc8487]

I've seen some videos of people running diesel or kerosene. I know it requires more frequent cleaning and maybe some preheating of the generator with a torch. What's your thoughts on it?

[@sagebrushbob2321]

It can be done, but as you said, it requires pre-heating the generator. It will also clog up the generator pretty quickly, leading to you needing to take it apart and clean it a lot more often. These stoves were designed for folks living in rural areas without electricity (1920's). They had to work with minimal repair or maintenance, and gasoline was very cheap at the time. It seems logical to me that we should use them with the fuel they were designed for, give them a little friendly maintenance every year, and be assured that they will continue to work well past our lifetimes. Considering that the vast majority of us will never put more than one gallon of gas through the stove per year, there is no real reason for using anything else.

[@wazzup105]

Did you actually try regular gas for an extended while? There is additives in regular gas. I doubt it's the ethanol that is giving you troubles.

[@billsemenoff]

Well, he said the generator tube gets fouled up...are you saying there's more to it than that?

[@TheReal1953]

$5 for the check valve removal tool(?)...try $30+....lol.

[@tedhenry4446]

Hello Sagebrush Bob, please correct the spelling of "Restoring" in the title. The misspelling will keep this video from loading into searches for "Restoring Coleman". Trying to be helpful.

[@sagebrushbob2321]

Thank you, I will!

[@newt66c33]

when you talk about useing gas are you talking about what we canadians call high test supose to be the cleaness

[@sagebrushbob2321]

It will work with normal pump gas (petrol), but you will need to clean the generator more often. Non-ethanol fuel for small engines and outboard motors works best.

[@MEME-yu7vw]

can you say ... HAMMER MECHANIC ...

[@mikecagle984]

Could barely hear you. Please get a body mic.

[@sunsail]

TUCK FRUMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@cherokeemapcrew]

Bless you. TRUMP 2020

[@LeverPhile]

Buck Fiden !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@john762x51]

Regular old pump gas is not gonna hurt these things, just don't leave it in there. but then again you should leave any fuel in it.