Restoring Cultured Marble Countertops | Polish Out Scratches Yourself

[@caroltaylor576]

I followed your instructions as well as I could and I am amazed at the results! I still have some deep scratches--the bathroom was used for more than thirty years by our three teenage girls growing up, and their children when they came along. Probably should have redone the whole bathroom but that wasn't the plan. The countertop is shiny and many of the wear and tear scratches are gone. I am delighted!

[@GettinBelizy]

That's fantastic news! So happy to hear this!

[@carolgoering6585]

I watched your video and did exactly what you said. I used 1500 grit sand paper. I could not get the shine back no matter how much I polished. Thank goodness the pack of paper I bought went up to 3000. This is what I did and it took less polishing. After sanding out the scratches with the 1500 paper I kept moving up in the numbers until I got to the 3000 grit. I then tried the polishing compound but the countertop was still dull. I then tried my glass stove top cleaner paste. It was the sweet spot between the sanding and the polish. After polishing it with the stove top cleaner I used the polishing compound. The factory shine was back. After polishing it by hand I used my electric polisher. It looks like new now.

[@GettinBelizy]

Great news! Way to stick with it until you got the result you wanted! It does take a lot of patience.

[@randalcobb9817]

Have a couple very small chips (besides light to medium scratches). Not trying to get it like new just improve. So there is product called ‘The Original Gel Gloss’ wax polish for countertops, sinks tubs I would like to use. What should I do to the chips?? Why can you not use Gel Gloss instead of clear coat over deep areas like the chips ? (Says it has some quartz in it)

[@matthewb1]

Hey! Help please! I have some cultured marble that has a rough spot in the gel coat. This is because I went too aggressive in trying to remove a rust stain using lemon juice and baking soda. The spot is more dull too. What would you recommend to fix it?

[@debperrotto7506]

I want to try this however, I'm concerned I will burn through the remaining gel coat. My vanity is 25 years old and we had a professional come in about 10 years ago to buff out scratches. There are lots of scratches that I suspect came from our cleaning company using abrasive products on it. In hindsight, I should have let them go when I first started seeing the scratches. What are your thoughts? Is there another alternative?

[@justinereinard1049]

Where did you get the painting tools? I would very much like to buy them. Fantastic job. Thank you.

[@heikeboshi8290]

After polishing our bathroom countertops to a high shine, we tackled our jetted bathtub, which has an acrylic-over-fiberglass surface. Using the same techniques, we removed lots of light-to-moderate scratches, then buffed the white gel coat "deck" to an incredible shine. I will echo what you have said: keep the sandpaper very wet, apply light pressure, move in circles, and do not go too deep or try to remove deep scratches. When in doubt, back off. Thanks again!

[@GettinBelizy]

I bet the tub was a chore. But sounds like it was well worth it!

[@michael.schuler]

Very detailed and clear presentation. Thank you! I have a pure white cultured marble vanity top. Hair coloring was spilled (against my explicit instructions to avoid such risk...!!!) leaving a small, very faint, very light stain (1/2" x 1") that drives me nuts, as the entire bath remodel was otherwise perfectly executed per my "Beatles White Album" custom design. Do you think that such a stain (no scratches involved) might be shallow enough to be removed by your detailed methodology without getting past the gel coat? (I am pro cabinetmaker but this material is outside my wheelhouse.) Thanks again for excellent video.

[@michael.schuler]

I went for it and used 3M 1200 wet-dry pads, ("Auto/Advanced - Step 4 Polish") --- carefully. A lot of rubbing and monitoring to avoid breaking through the gel coat. The stains are gone! I followed up with some Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound and ended up with a vastly improved top. Thanks again.

[@GettinBelizy]

Fantastic! So glad it worked!

[@kyleenbentley7477]

You state that it is very bad to go through the gel coating. We had something sit on our cultured marble that took off the finish all the way down to the raw rough countertop. It is a spot larger than a 50cent piece in the sink bowl area. So since going through the gel is bad bad - any suggestions on repairing that? The rest of counter is in good shape with exception of a couple small pitted places - 20 year old vanity.

[@GettinBelizy]

Hmmm ... yes, we've had this question before. Best we can suggest is a clear coat gloss spray. We suggest the spray because it gives you the best chance of 'blending' into the gloss clear coat around the damaged area. Mike's done autobody work and has some experience with the blending technique, but you should be fine if you use a delicate hand. Let us know how it goes!

[@mmrobb73]

Thank you for producing such an encouraging and informative video. I'm surprised by how much better your countertops look. Do you think a random orbital buffer (the kind used for polished automobiles), used in conjunction with the compound you used -- or the 3M clearcoat buffing compound product, mentioned below -- would work, providing I'm not too aggressive, or does that sound like a potentially dangerous idea?

[@GettinBelizy]

Hi Robb -- Provided you are skilled in it's use, yes, I think a random orbital buffer would work great and be a big time saver. My experience suggests that the clear gelcoat on these countertops does not have an entirely uniform thickness but, at minimum, it should be as thick as the 2nd-stage clearcoat on an automotive finish.

[@kaye8231]

Thanks for sharing. I have a MATTE cultured marble bathroom countertop/sink and the sink bowl has light crazing & staining. Can I use this procedure to fix that?

[@GettinBelizy]

I would think this process would be ideal for that situation. Let us know how it goes!

[@tingletips]

Can you use a buffer to do this instead? I want to do my shower and see if it will take out some circles from putting up suction cup grab bars that left marks on the shower walls after I took them out.

[@GettinBelizy]

I think so!

[@lisahuff5874]

Do you think it would also work on kitchen? I think they are Formica.

[@lucypark5185]

I purchased the products you recommended and completed all the steps and my countertop is still not shining… It’s actually more dull than it was before… What could I do to improve this?

[@GettinBelizy]

It sounds like you took the entire clear coat layer off. This does happen. You could try a clear coat spray enamel ... but, once it's on it's pretty well permanent.

[@user-xu8wn7ge7s]

Would this work for hard water spots in a cultured marble shower? If not, what would you recommend?

[@GettinBelizy]

I would think so! I'd go really easy on those spots because it won't take nearly this much effort.

[@wandawilliams4947]

I have a black marble counter top and spilled jewelry cleaner and do not know how to get the stain out.

[@GettinBelizy]

Ouch. Is it real marble or faux marble?

[@wandawilliams4947]

@@GettinBelizy I am not sure what kind of marble. Its in the bathroom. I tried a mixture of water and baking soda and let it sif for 2 days and that didnt work. Next I tried baking soda and a little bit of hydrogen peroxide. This is on their now. The jewerly cleaner ate away at the marble and now it looks terrible. Can I mask it by putting something like black shoe polish? Tks

[@GettinBelizy]

Oh gosh no, I wouldn't put any sort of stain on it. That would only make things worse. Without seeing your counter top, I can't say for sure what would fix it, but the process you see here should work for any cultured (or faux) stone. Cultured stone is colored all the way through. So, theoretically, if you gently sand past the damage the jewelry cleaner left, you should find clean, untouched 'marble' underneath. The key is to be very gentle, however. Good luck!

[@Trashman702]

Hello. I have a cultured stone shower that’s only 3 months old. I used the wrong cleaners on it and now it’s total dull and can’t get the hard water deposits off. Can you offer any help ?

[@GettinBelizy]

I'd probably start out with a good polishing compound and an electric buffer with a high quality polishing pad. Hopefully, that's all it needs. If you still have no shine, you might try a sealant made for cultured stone. I tend to shy away from sealants but needed to buckle down and use one on quartz kitchen countertops. It did okay, added a good even shine - BUT you have to let it dry for at least 72 hours before touching it. Good luck!

[@heikeboshi8290]

Very helpful video! May I ask a question? I had just finished wet-sanding our cultured marble countertop using 1000/2000-grit sandpaper. Given the stark economic realities during the Covid-19 pandemic, I am hoping to use a product I already have, instead of buying new. Do you think any of the following might be an acceptable substitute? I currently have (a) Meguiar's Step 1 paint Cleaner (b) Meguiar'Step 2 Polish (both are advertised as "clear coat safe") (c) Turtle Wax rubbing compound and (d) Turtle Wax polishing compound and scratch remover. If you think Meguiar's Ultra Cut Compound is better, I will buy it but a 32-oz bottle costs $26 versus Meguiar's 32 Ounce Diamond Cut Compound, which is one-half that price. Thank you, again!

[@GettinBelizy]

It's funny that you mention it -- in my video, I was also just using what I had on hand. Any of those products you mentioned should be safe, so far as I know. The only down-side I see is that none of the products you mentioned sound like they have a very coarse abrasive, so you may have to work a bit harder to achieve the finished product -- but if you're like most people right now, you've got plenty of time! Experiment to see which product seems to produce shine most quickly -- this will most likely be the product with the most coarse abrasive (TW Rubbing Compound if I had to guess). If you complete the counter-top and find it doesn't ultimately have the level of shine you're happy with, go over everything again with one of the other products with finer abrasive (perhaps Meguiar's Step 2?). Good Luck!

[@heikeboshi8290]

@@GettinBelizy Thanks! A followup rookie question. So if I understand, the 1000/2000 wet sandpaper "erases" the finer surface scratches but also dulls the shine, so a lot of gentle polishing is needed to restore the shine. Is that right? It's weird how one abrasive (wet sandpaper) can sand down a surface until it's a bit dull looking, but another type of abrasive (polish) can smooth the surface and make it shiny again. I just discovered that I have an old R.O. buffer, but the speed isn't adjustable and is pretty fast.

[@GettinBelizy]

I'm sure there are different yet technically "correct" ways to look at it. I look at it as a case of needing to take off a tiny bit of the surface, through the sanding process, so that the counter-top surface is eventually reduced to the level of the bottoms of most of the lighter scratches. You are essentially smoothing by reducing the high spots to match the low ones. When that happens, there is no more scratch. You DO have to draw the line somewhere -- you don't want to sand until the deeper scratches go away because you might, at that point, start going entirely through the gel-coat. You have to start out identifying some deeper scratches and tell yourself "when these are all that's left, I'm calling it quits". The end result will look much better because the lighter scratches, which were more abundant, will be gone, and theThe deeper scratches will also be less pronounced. So, anyway, the objective is to "take down" the surface until it is at the same height as the bottoms of the lighter scratches. The micro-scratches left by the sanding process are an inconvenient byproduct of this process, so you must then address them by cycling through progressively finer grit abrasives until you're using an ultra-fine abrasive we call "polish". Understand, sand paper and polish do essentially the same thing: they use abrasive to smooth larger imperfections, and they accomplish that task my removing surface material. Polish is just a very extremely FINE abrasive. Did that help? One more thing -- be careful not to accidentally sand harder on any ridges -- it's easy to take more material at corners and edges simply because they naturally catch on your paper. I would avoid sanding edges entirely unless you've got a corner that's beat up and you're willing to take a risk. (example would be where the counter-top turns downward into the sink basin)

[@heikeboshi8290]

@@GettinBelizy VERY HELPFUL--thanks! I am motivated to complete this project, which will delight my wife lol. We really appreciate your taking time to educate us. BTW, if we win a big lottery, we might end up being neighbors in Belize. Stay well!

[@GettinBelizy]

See you someday in paradise!

[@karenomalley7616]

Can this method be used on engineered marble. I have white vinegar stains on my engineered marble. What to do?

[@GettinBelizy]

Yep, these countertops should be just like yours. Engineered - cultured - manufactured ... same thing. I would give this method a try. Let us know how it goes!

[@tahitinui2010]

Hello, 1) to do a whole top that's scratched here and there, do you sand the whole surface or only the scratched areas? 2) when polishing a whole top alternating the products you use, do you work the whole surface in one trait or in sections? 3) same question as #2 for turtle wax which you advise needs to be wiped asap after rubbing it down?

[@GettinBelizy]

Mike Here :-) 1) I would only sand the areas that have visible scratches (as opposed to micro-abrasions which merely dull the shiny finish). Keep sanding to an absolute minimum, use 1000 grit or higher, and always use water or some other lubricant. The gel-coat on these countertops is VERY thin; it's quite easy to go through if you're not careful. It's generally a bit thicker than the clear-coat on automotive paint, but there's no way to know exactly what the thickness is either, which makes this process a calculated gamble. You want to sand JUST enough to take out the worst of the scratches. If you have a really badly scratched area, you may want to strike a compromise and only sand deep enough to remove the lighter scratches in that area, which will also diminish the severity of the deeper ones in that same area. If you find you must do this in the worst sections, I assure you, the countertop will look MUCH better for it, even if minimal scratches remain when you're done. 2) When polishing the entire countertop, I break the work up into small sections, based on what I can conveniently polish in a single stroke (keep strokes circular to prevent linear scratches, BTW). I only move on when I'm satisfied with the result in that section. Doing this will usually result in some small areas initially overlooked or a difference in the level of polish between sections but these issues are easily addressed once the initial polish process is complete. 3) For our purposes, Turtle Wax is just another wax based abrasive polish though the specific wax formulation may afford longer lasting protection than standard polish. We only finish with Turtle wax because a finer abrasive than polishing compound does -- MUCH finer! This allows us to buff the finish to a higher level of shine. I generally take bigger strokes when finishing with Turtle Wax but I approach that process in the same way as discussed in #2 above -- one small section at a time.

[@delphidark]

Though sanding the area only can bring a dip in the surface

[@phoenixdurlin9735]

What do you use to take out the yellowing on these types of countertops. We moved into an older home and they are in great shape, but the creamy white appears slightly yellow in areas...

[@GettinBelizy]

The yellowing is something that you won't be able to "take out", per se. If your situation corresponds with my experience, the thing that has turned yellow, is the very top layer of the gel-coat on the countertop. The same process which will take out micro-scratches will remove this yellowed layer. I actually had some of that in the project showcased here, but we started shooting video after I had already resolved it. You'll actually need to sand less gel-coat away to get rid of the yellowing than you would to resolve the small scratches which were our primary problem with our countertops. Considering that the yellowing is your only problem, and considering this is a new process for you, I would simply start with coarse rubbing compound and just keep rubbing a small area until the yellow goes away. Once you've done that, you'll know what it will take to resolve the yellowing in the balance of the affected area. Well-wetted 1200 or greater wet-dry sand-paper would speed the process, but it would also increase the risk that you'd sand through the clear-coat, at which point, you've basically ruined the countertop. It takes lots of patience, but the finer the abrasive you use at the beginning, the less your chances of ruining the countertop and the less work it will be to regain the high-gloss finish with fine polishing compound in your final step. If you use even the finest sand paper in the first step, it's quite a chore to polish out micro-scratches left by the paper. If you never use anything but coarse rubbing compound in the first step, luster returns quickly with fine polish compound in the final step.

[@phoenixdurlin9735]

Thank you very much! I will be taking up the task next week and appreciate your advice 👍

[@bashedin]

Hoe do I know if my vanity counter is marble, culture marble, or some other synthetic marble? I didn't buy it and don't know where it was bought, as it was in the house I bought. It looks and feels like marble, but I have very little knowledge, so I have no idea if it's real marble. I would like to polish it because dull and has lotd of really dull rough spots and scratches, but I don't want to ruin it by assuming it's marble. Thank you.

[@GettinBelizy]

This little tutorial might help determine what material you are working with ... "You Can Tell Real and Cultured Marble Apart A tell-tale sign of cultured marble is that the countertop will have an integrated sink and backsplash of the same color and pattern, also no seams or caulking, a thin edge and flat finish-like underside."

[@modernenergy682]

I have a bathroom sink that is made out of this cultured marble stuff (Glacier Bay from Home Depot) and i have a ton of scratches in the basin from the pumice stone (maybe they are deep scratches but it is like entire surface is basically visibly matte from not having a gel coat) . Should I still sand it down or can I go with the wax right away?

[@GettinBelizy]

I would go with a polishing compound. It takes longer to get out actual scratches but it doesn't cut into the surface like even fine wet/dry sandpaper does. I would try polishing a small spot for a good while and see what happens. You might get lucky and lessen scratches and give it a shine all at the same time.

[@LLWW]

What if I just want to make my cultured marble tops to be a matte finish? I hate the shiny look. What would be the best grit to sand it with to get a nice matte finish and would i need to seal it with some sort of matte sealer afterwards?

[@GettinBelizy]

As fine a sandpaper as you could find! :-) I've never tried this, but I'm certain you would need to seal it. You are right that there are matte sealers out there. And maybe the sealer would help with blotchiness.

[@VP411Designs]

What is the difference between cultured marble, stone resin, polymarble, solid surface and Acrylic composition? What can be considered major positives and negatives for each of these types of bathroom vanity counters with built in sinks integrated in one piece? Are these fabricated vanities durable long lasting, heat resistant, color change resistant, chip resistant and any other item to consider?

[@GettinBelizy]

That's definitely a question for someone more expert than I! We only have personal experience with two of the 'engineered counter tops' you list which, as I understand it, are all variations of the same thing - ground up stone mixed with various resins. (1) Cultured Marble (in this video) is a solid surface acrylic composition with a gel coat and it (as well as solid surface) does NOT hold up well to heat and does only minimally better with scratching. In my experience, any product with a gloss finish is more susceptible to these problems. The second product we have experience with is (2) Quartz and we love it. Although, it's the same general premise - ground up stone and resin - it does not have a gel coat and, both the materials and processes used seem to result in a superior product. We've had quartz counter tops in our kitchen for over a decade with zero scratching, heat damage or staining. Hope this helps!

[@shirleynielson7600]

Thank you so much for your video. It worked really good and my countertops look great. I didn't have to spend 600 to 700 dollars that it would have cost me to have someone come in an do them.

[@GettinBelizy]

So glad it helped and happy for your success!

[@garywick2090]

Thats exactly what I was going to do but instead I had 2000 Grit but yeah thank you I'm glad somebody else did it now I know i can.

[@jerryconnor1529]

Hi, would this process work with cultured granite? I believe the product name is “Granitex.”

[@GettinBelizy]

It should work on original cultured granite countertops. But, as I understand it, Granitex is an acrylic coating that is applied OVER countertops. If that's what you have, this process doesn't apply to your situation.

[@jerryconnor1529]

Thank you, sir! Your videos are great!

[@pawsitiveleader8710]

I dont really have scratches, have new vanity and a spot had silicone stick to it that wouldn't come off. used bartenders helper it came off , but now that area is obviously dull and sticks out like a sore thumb. The area is about one inch be 3 inches, any suggestions? maybe just polishing compound? which one?

[@GettinBelizy]

I think you're right about trying polishing compound only. Mother's Mag Polish is good. You can buff with Turtlewax after which might help with shine.

[@alexchopper7997]

Hey I know this is old but I’m in a similar situation. Got JB Welds glue stuck and dried up on my vanity counter. I used soft steel wool to remove it and now it’s all scratched up and dull about 1-2 inch in diameter. Did the compound and wax work for you?

[@purpleseven5470]

Thanks for the video. Can I use these products on faux travertine top with polyurethane finish? I used a spunge and on the tabletop and it's now slightly drier than the rest of the table... please help. Thanks

[@GettinBelizy]

It should work for all faux surfaces! Did the sponge have any sort of cleaner or acetone on it? Knowing why it is no longer shiny will help determine what steps to take.

[@purpleseven5470]

@@GettinBelizy no cleaner or acetone I just grab the sponge from the kitchen sink . I rubbed the table too hard... Do I need to buy all of the products in your video? Should I do any sand? Thanks for the quick response !

[@GettinBelizy]

No sanding. Unless you have scratches or flaws in the finish, you want to stay away from sanding. You might try a sealer first - just to get the shine back. If that doesn't work, you could use the wax only. It doesn't sound like you have a damaged surface, just a dull one.

[@purpleseven5470]

Gettin' Belizy Thank you. I will try it out! Any type of sealer?

[@serenasaystoday]

How do you know if you've gone through the gel coat?

[@GettinBelizy]

It will be dull and 'foggy' instead of shiny and reflective.

[@scrapenbass493]

Was there a glossy glaze/coating that u removed when u sanded?...if so did u have to apply a new coat of gloss glaze or not?....if u did not apply a glossy glaze did u get the shine back just from elbow grease buffing and polishing? TIA ✌

[@GettinBelizy]

I removed just a little bit of the "glaze" as you call it. The correct term is "gel-coat". IF you sand or polish entirely through the gel-coat in even a single small spot, you've basically ruined the countertop (and there's no way to know just how thick it is until it's too late) . The only exception here is if you find that the basic pigment and grain of the cultured marble are in still intact where you sanded through. If that's the case, you can try to clear-coat the entire countertop. Attractive results can be had this way under just the right circumstances but durability will be substantially lacking vs the original gel-coat. You can clear coat over a countertop where most of the gel-coat is intact and you've sanded through in just one or two areas, but you can NOT clear-coat just one spot where you rub through and leave the rest. The reason for this is that there will be a very visible distinction between the area you clear-coated and the area you did not clear-coat. I can advise on clear-coating because I've experimented with it on previous projects. From experience, I can tell you that the BEST course is to simply replace the countertop if you find you've sanded or polished through the original gel-coat.

[@andyarnold3617]

I used Turtle Wax polishing compound light to medium cleaner and 1000 grit sandpaper. Everything still looks hazy and scratched. I'm not sure what to do to get it looking better. Any suggestions would be very helpful. I wanted to surprise my husband while he is away but right now I'm thinking he won't be impressed.

[@GettinBelizy]

Hi there! It might be easy to doubt the polishing process is having any benefit but hang in there -- it just takes time and effort. I suggest you stick to one 10"x10" area and focus on getting it to shine. Once you've accomplished that, you'll know what will be required to get the entire surface looking the same. Unlike many typical household cleaning jobs, this process benefits from a lot of downward force as you polish. The more pressure you use, the quicker the desired shine will be achieved. We may not have properly emphasized just how much physical labor is involved in getting from the dull 1000-grit stage to a nicely polished look. Mike was sore for a couple of days after this project, and the polishing process took quite a bit of time! It sounds like you've not used an excessively coarse abrasive so it's very unlikely you've gone through the gelcoat, but if you do go through, that spot will never shine. The colored/textured core of the countertop is slightly porous and there's no way to make it shine short of adding clearcoat back on top of it -- which is an iffy proposition. Again -- this shouldn't be your situation but it might be something to keep in mind as you proceed. Generally, I think if you focus on a 10"x10" section, you'll find out what is required to achieve shine and you'll be able to pace yourself moving forward to complete the balance of the countertop. Best of luck!

[@andyarnold3617]

@@GettinBelizy Thank you so much for responding back to me. I realized on Sunday that the reason it wasn't looking right was due to the fact that I needed to take out more scratches and remove the shine by repeating the 1000 grit sanding. The sanding is the easy part though. The buffing is a much much slower process to achieve the desired look. I did go out and purchase a 6" orbital buffer to help with the polishing. It's coming along but it's definitely more work than I thought it would be to get it all done. (large double bathroom vanity lol) My husband came home this evening and said that he can already see a big difference in how it looks. Thanks again for your advise, encouragement and helpful video.

[@GettinBelizy]

That's great news! Let us know how it turns out!

[@msheidiyodel]

Much better! Ty! Our daughter spilled hair dye, will this work for that?

[@GettinBelizy]

it's hard to say. I was able to remove some yellowing as part of the repair showcased here -- unfortunately I didn't capture "before" video. The big question is how deep the dye penetrated into the gel-coat. If only the very top layer of gel-coat is affected, then yes, this should work. Unfortunately, there's no way to know until you try. If it is a fairly small area that's affected, I would just start with some rubbing compound on a very small area and see what the result is. If it takes forever, you might consider wet-sanding the rest of the affected area before finishing with rubbing compound and wax. The only trouble with wet-sanding is that you can very easily ruin a countertop if you 1) use too coarse of sandpaper or 2) sand too much. In either case, once you go through the gel-coat into the core of the countertop, you have much bigger problems. If you skip sandpaper altogether and just use rubbing compound, it may take longer, but it's much harder to go through the gel-coat. Hope that helps -- good luck!

[@msheidiyodel]

Gettin' Belizy much appreciated thank you!

[@ks2066]

Rubbing alcohol (if you can find any these days) removes a lot of surface stains without the negative effects of bleach.

[@GettinBelizy]

Good idea! Rubbing alcohol is surprisingly versatile. I would be concerned about the counter top loosing it's shine permanently in the area where you use alcohol. But maybe that's still a better result than the stain? Either way, if you do decide to use alcohol, you could try denatured alcohol instead of isopropyl alcohol. Our local home improvement stores still have it in stock.

[@jeanie338]

I try removing the hair dye with magic eraser and it works so you can try it too. Wet the eraser a little and lightly try to rub on the dye stain and see if it comes off the culture marble, hope it works for you.

[@f.4588]

Thank you! Very helpful tips.

[@jonasanderson1987]

Would Meguiar's PlastX work on my counter?

[@GettinBelizy]

Possibly but have not tried it. Good luck!

[@halgulledge9952]

Nice video and obviously well-made. It would have been a lot better with better lighting. JS.

[@AG-yj1jv]

So I'm a older female, living in a rental, but the sink was new when I moved in. Workmen came in and put their tools in and on the sink. Even washed tools in the sink scratching all around the drain! Deep scratches that turned black. 😭 Worse, they look like they're curving up along the edges, as if the inside is absorbing water. I may be S8, but I LIVE here -- and this was the nicest place ever. 😥 ...Well... I've got 1200 grit, and buffing compound from working on my old vehicle before I sold it. Looks similar, but I worry about those blackened gouges. Maybe I should do a "color match fill" -- tape off the drain first, work filler into cracks, wipe off surface even with the rest , then start with the grit? It's just a small vanity top. Gel was expensive, last I looked. But, there is a product used for ladies' fingernails to fill the gap between the nail bed & acrylic nail, and a gel ceramic clearcoat that is heat/cold resistant. What do you think?

[@GettinBelizy]

I think you are beyond anything I have first hand experience with! I also think you have some good ideas! It does sound as if these workmen gouged entirely through the original gelcoat -- the black you describe sounds like it could be mold growing on the porous core of the countertop which is exposed at the bottom of these scratches. What a shame -- I'm sorry to hear it! I do think the only path forward might be, as you say, to get some sort of color matched fill into the gouges and then a clear coat over that. It's anyone's guess how well this might turn out, but I'm sure it's true that the more care and attention to detail, the better the final result. Good luck -- keep us posted!

[@PFSacramento]

What did you use to fill the gouges? Workers gouged my sink when removing old faucet. How dumb was that!

[@1955dmb]

Do you have any experience with Engineered Marble vanity tops? We got one from Lowes and I spilled a little vinegar on it. It is now etched. The engineered marble does not have a top coat as you described in the cultured marble. But I am dealing with a ring left by the bottle and then splashes and drips over one entire side of the 49" top. We just finished remodeling our master bathroom. I am so upset about it.

[@GettinBelizy]

That's really too bad. I'm sorry to hear that happened to you. Although cultured and engineered marble are both a version of 'faux' marble and constructed similarly, there are some differences such as gel coat like you described. I found this article very helpful about the comparisons ... econgranite.com/stone-weekly/dangers-of-faux-marble/ We have quartz (engineered surface) installed in our kitchen and had discoloration immediately when they pealed the protective plastic off after installation. It was almost as if some oils in the plastic had soaked into the surface. They tried every product or solution they could think of. We had 'an expert' come from the manufacturer. He was at a loss. Told us our last recourse was to seal it. We didn't want it sealed - it was the whole reason we decided on quartz - because they insist it doesn't need sealing! So, they gave us a refund and we kept the quartz because, well, FREE QUARTZ! I decided to try some of my own methods after that, thinking it couldn't get worse. I was right. I ended up being fairly pleased with the results of an application of vegetable oil. It evened out the discoloration which was also caused by oils (we think). Then after a few years, it all faded quite evenly and, although I can still see the original markings at a certain angle in a certain light, they aren't bad at all. It's possible that sealer would have helped as well - we just never tried it. It seemed wrong to 'seal' in the offending oil. Anyway, best of luck! Let us know how it turns out!

[@1955dmb]

@@GettinBelizy Thanks so much for your reply. I read the article in the link and even though I had known all of that when we chose it, I felt like I would be able to take good care of the counter top. A random thing happened with a little jar of vinegar (a tonic that my son in law loves). I ran to the nearest bathroom because it leaked. I forgot about how prissy the product is for that second. Anyway, it is etched just like glass etching. My first instinct was to treat it with oil, but it does not absorb the oil at all. I might try buffing one of the spots and then adding a turtle wax or furniture wax. And as with your situation, it is more obvious when looking at it from one direction than the other. I like a countertop to be clear of items, but I might have to lay a towel or something there just to distract me from looking at it. My husband made the vanity himself because the products from places like Lowes and Home Depot are pure junk. I should have purchased natural stone for the top, but we just wanted to get it done. Some of 'natural' stone at Lowes is about a quarter inch thick and glued over something else. I realized that when I saw a crack in it. All the displays had cracks in them. Anyway....live and learn. Thanks for your input!! Much appreciated.

[@GettinBelizy]

Man, that's tough. It sounds like there's no down side to the buff/polish approach. And if it's actually scratched to the touch, you pretty much need to get down to a smooth surface anyway. I agree that it just makes sense to start out with a super fine-grit wet sandpaper and see where it goes. Good luck!

[@1955dmb]

@@GettinBelizy Thanks!! It's going to be my after Christmas project. Whooo hoooo!!

[@subira1913]

Hello! I just purchased a used cultured marble vanity top for my bathroom. I'm trying to make it nice again as it's replacing my current countertop. HOWEVER- it's got an overall YELLOW look to it and after this video, I believe there are two areas where pores have been open. Is there ANY way to fix EITHER of these issues? Am I going to have to PAINT this to make it usable (which I don't want to do)? ANY advice would be greatly appreciated!

[@GettinBelizy]

Yellowing can happen for a number of reasons. If your entire counter top is yellow, it may be part of the material color and there'd be nothing you could do about that. If it's just spots of yellow, or if the yellow is in the clear jell coat only (say sun damage or coming from a smoker's house), wet sanding with 1200 grit and then polish would be your best bet. If you already have open pores that are truly through the jell coat, wet sanding will only make these worse. BUT, if you're on the verge of painting it as a last resort, the wet sand/polish trick sure couldn't hurt anything and you may as well give it a try. Avoid sanding through the jell coat either way. If you do manage to get it to a color you can tolerate, you can clear coat it again with a gloss spray from Home Depot/Lowes. Hope that helps!

[@harpreetSingh-ym2pv]

What kind solution you dip on sand paper?

[@GettinBelizy]

That's just water. Keeping the wet/dry sand paper saturated at all times. Good luck!

[@harpreetSingh-ym2pv]

Thanks

[@Proost1]

I've got some serious stains and then the previous owners tried to scrape it away which gouged the area. So, I tried 100 grit to go through the stain and scratches to no avail. Is it possible to restore the coating after re-sanding the affected area?

[@GettinBelizy]

Hey Phil! 100 grit is course enough that it's likely you're not only through the clear coat, but through the marbled pattern as well. Below the marble pattern (pigmented layer) is the core material (primary color layer). If you've already cut through the pigmented layer, there is really no hope for restoration. If there is some marble pattern still remaining, you can work your way back to 1000 grit (I'd start with 600 grit), tape off the area and apply crystal clear gloss spray (available at Home Depot). It won't be as durable a finish but should look acceptable if you take the time to remove the majority of the 100 grit scratches. Good luck!

[@Proost1]

@@GettinBelizy Thanks! There is some weird dark stain along where they fastened - stuck - adhered the shower curtain and then tried to scrape it with something sharp. It's ridiculous. I don't think I could hurt the look any more. I wet sand with 1000 grit to see if I can get it off without too much damage. It'll get replace soon enough and we may find a resurfacing company to just place something new over the top. Thanks!

[@GettinBelizy]

Sure! Good luck!

[@sherrikelley7936]

Mine appear a little deeper inside the sink around the drain. Any suggestions?

[@GettinBelizy]

We had similar issue with ours. Fortunately, we were replacing all the fixtures and so were able to really polish out the drain hole while the old drain hardware was removed. It's not difficult to remove and replace the drain and, so, I'd suggest doing so. This will allow you good access to the harsh blemishes. Ours turned out really good.

[@sherrikelley7936]

Thanks!!

[@sherrikelley7936]

I’m afraid I may be sanding too hard. 😩We already have new bronze hardware which is what made the cracks really stand out. 🙈

[@GettinBelizy]

Uh oh. It's a difficult thing to know when to stop. I think my only reason for such success was huge patience. 1000 grit for a bit (but not too much) and then polishing compound until my arm was so sore it felt like it would fall off. If you've already done too much sanding, there may be no coming back from that.

[@chuckwustman7599]

We also have issues in the sink bowl ... are you finishing this with any sealer, or just the wax and buffing it? Want to be sure this will hold up to daily bathroom sink use. Thanks in advance!

[@911truthfarmer]

or you could just replace it. Nice work though. Nice to know it can be done. But for $100 I easily replaced one of our beat up old cultured marble guest bathroom counter with a beautiful granite style Formica counter. I will do the same in the master bath. This crappy material was used all over this area during the 80s. It is awful.

[@GettinBelizy]

True. This stuff is cheap and poorly made. I'm glad they've moved away from it.

[@MrWolfSnack]

It cannot be "just replaced". Every vanity, especially used in custom applications, was cut to different dimensions and sink placements. You will not find a counter to match the vanity cabinet, and putting a brand new counter in a 1988 renovated bathroom on a 1988 vanity cabinet will stick out like a store thumb. I have a right offset sink in mine, and I have been hunting Habitat Restore for years to try and find a replacement in a similar color. I just have deep gouges in my basin I'm trying to get out or at least patch up.

[@dougiesdigs]

The video would have come out much better if you used more lighting!

[@kevinhedspeth4303]

My nephew has been cleaning the bathroom countertop and tub with green scotchbrite pads and has scratched them and ruined the Gloss shine...will this method be able to save these? The gel coat doesn't seemed to be penetrated yet

[@GettinBelizy]

Should work on the counter top ... not sure about the tub. It would depend on the material it's made of.