Restoring Headlights with 3M Kit -EricTheCarGuy

I've done other headlight restoration videos, one in fact, but when I tried this kit earlier this year I found it to be the easiest and most effective kit that I've used to date. I chose the kit for the drill but if you don't have a drill you can also get the 'human' operated kit. As you'll see in the video that kit comes with a few extra items. Just be sure to mask off the area before you begin work. If not, you might end up with some scratches on your finish. Otherwise I feel this is something any DIYer can do and get great results from.
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

[@ChaosV999]

I know this video is several years old, but THANK YOU for posting it. I used a 3M restoration kit today and it was a total success. I was initially hesitant to use the kit that requires a drill for fear of ruining my car, but after watching your video, I felt confident I would do fine. My headlight covers are clear and sparkling again!

[@somebodyimportint5791]

mine too...amazing results

[@myemail2005]

Eric, I have found the hand kit works 10 times better if you make a drill sound as you are using it! It makes your neighbors think you have cool tools when you really didn't spend anything extra. Just be ready to act like you're being called in for dinner if you see a neighbor coming over to see what you are doing!!!

[@knighthawk86855]

Thank you for telling the masses that over sanding, or to high speed, will cause damage to the plastic headlight cover, even crack it, you are the only one to tell people this....good job, thank you again.

[@waterhead1029]

This kit works very well, I have used it before. These headlights are cloudier, so I'm watching a video.

[@terrycornelius9805]

Great Video - I watched it, went to my garage, opened the 3M kit and did my headlights like a pro with your help. Thanks for the help

[@leadpelletinass]

I paid and watched a guy massage my headlights with wet/dry sand paper of 800/1500/3000 and finally 5000 grit. He used a soda bottle with a cap and he poked a hole in the cap to dribble water as he hand sanded. Took about 15-20 minutes per side including the polishing step which he used a battery powered drill and some plastic polishing compound. Turned out real nice. About 2 years later they needed it again so I went and bought the materials and D.I.Y. it. 6 months after that I did a neighbors headlights the same way, all by hand. They were impressed especially considering how badly they were oxidized before and the clarity after. Thank You for the video.

[@KathrynFortunato]

From experience, unless your headlights are chewed to hell by debris and have very thick hazing, DO NOT start with the lowest pad, it's like 800 grit I think, and then the kit jumps right up to 3000 grit. The 3000 grit pad works more than fast enough to knock down even reasonably thick yellow hazing and get to the point where some polishing creams will finish up quite nicely. I found that just using Turtle Wax (or your preference) rubbing compound followed by polishing compound produces great results. As others have said as well, it is critical once finished to put something over the headlights as you're only further stripping down the UV protectant in the headlights by doing this. I recommend a good quality acrylic clear coat that specifically contains a high content of UV protection in it. After the clear coat has fully cured (cure faster simply by running your headlights for a while - even in the day time), I'd further recommend putting on a quality wax or using something like 303 Aerospace Protectant as others mentioned. I just did this on my '02 Forester, and they look almost like new (there are some small cracks in the lenses, apparently inside the lens), those remain.

[@heavymechanic2]

Kathryn Fortunato I used 2000 wet paper on a sanding sponge until the worst of the oxidized scum was removed and followed up with a mild rubbing compound on an orange polishing pad (like in this kit).. The compound used on step 1 was rated at 1500, step 2 was diminishing at 2000 to 3500; these products I use on the paint and the lights came out looking great. I know that Turtle Wax has a special product for headlights and their headlight kit also has a sealant in it to protect your work. Thanks for posting your comments above.

[@joselozano0528]

Hi Eric. I personally used both kits with great success. There really meant for 1 set of headlights, but like you said those headlights are not that bad. The headlights I did were so bad it took me 3 hours. The only tips I can give you is: to also spray your trizack with water, use duck tape on top of the masking tape for better protection, & for everyone else really read the instructions.

[@minicooperusaf4624]

I watched this video for 3m restoration headlight drill kit by@EricTheCarGuy. I bought the kit from Amazon. I followed all of Eric’s instructions. YES it works! 2007 Toyota, headlights were bad, now look brand new. Thanks Eric!

[@Bfizzy420]

I use ReNuLite at my shop which has A LOT more steps than the 3M kit... I really want the trisac wet sanding disc from the 3M kit to add to my procedures.. The thing I really like about the ReNuLite kit is that it comes with a clear coat paint, which takes some experience to get right, but I saw my first headlight restoration about a week ago(which I did over a year ago) & it's still as clear as the day I did it. The kit cost my shop $300 & some change at our cost. But it came with the pneumatic tools for sanding & buffing. I've done well over 30 since & all of my customers are more than happy that they can now see a lot better when they're driving at night. Great video as always Eric!

[@jimshugar3546]

Brian Fowler

[@samknox1]

Just used the current 3M kit. It has 6x500 grit sanding discs, 4x800 grit sanding discs, 1 3000 grit sanding pad, a sanding attachment for a drill, and 2 clear coat packets. Procedure is pretty much as Eric demonstrates, start with the coarse disc and work your way up to the sanding pad. Instructions are good, and there's also a how-to video on the 3M site. Anyway, it took less than an hour and turned-out pretty nice, if I do say so myself, although my lenses were not very bad.

[@vecetti37]

Thanks just noticed the rubbing compound and pad were missing.

[@glenniz1]

The 3M kit worked very well for the Headlights on my 96 Exploder. They were in bad enough shape to have tossed into the trash. This kit brought them back to about 95% of original. It's been about eight months since, and they still look great.

[@eduardotoutin762]

I know there are several options out there, but yesterday a friend of mine saw my headlights and got me out of my missery; he gave me a 3M kit, not the one to use with a drill, but the one you apply with your hands. It comes with 1000, 3000, and 5000 grit discs, but he added an additional 800-grit disc and that very disk is the one that did the trick. My headlights look factory new. Great video. Thanks.

[@boots7859]

You can get 3M cutting compound at your local auto store for $8 a bottle which should work fine for light to moderate haze. If its really bad, you can simply do a couple of passes with it. Also, Magueirs Aluminum polish works very, very well for about $6. This is an older video, and for just a little more time put in, you should be able to get super-clear finish. Step everyone skips is putting a 2K UV coat on afterwards. You can use cheaper 1K, however it rarely lasts a year. No UV coating and you'll be back doing this in 6-7 months.

[@georgemorley1029]

This kit did very well for a BMW E90 front lens cover that was looking yellow and tired. However, a word of caution - I attempted the first time with a cordless drill that was not up to the task (600rpm only) and it did not have the desired effect. Luckily, I did not give up and went back at it with the same gear and a drill that was far more capable (1600rpm) and things turned out exactly as they did for this guy. So be sure to have a drill that can let the kit really do its thing.

[@LMacNeill]

My wife's work-truck has clouded-up headlights (2008 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel) and she was like, "what can we do about this?" And I thought to myself, "Self," I said, "Didn't you watch a video by Eric The Car Guy a few years back about this very problem?" So I came to the channel and searched -- found this video right away! Just ordered that 3M drill-powered kit -- because I'm lazy and don't want to do it by hand. ;-) . I know what I'll be doing this weekend. Thanks!

[@chriskelley5066]

Here's a tidbit of information if you read your comments... I used what you suggested in your video on a 2006 Dodge Charger. After I was done I was blown away by how new the headlight lenses looked. I would have give you a sincere shout out for how you presented the procedure to do the headlamps Shields and I found what you told me to be very successful. I appreciate your experience and your knowledge, I did not have that before I did the project. If you want to see the results I can email them to you. Keep up the great work and I look forward to seeing what you come out with in the future and I'll pay very close attention to what I can use in my own efforts.

[@davidmarell3694]

Thanks for your demonstration very clear and concise and thanks for not talking 100 miles an hour😉

[@hughbo52]

Eric, thanks! My wife is really wanting to get her headlight fixed. I'm so glad to have come across your video. Your demonstration had clear instructions, tips, and good camera and video. Super job.

[@ricky.g7528]

great video .. I work at Pepboys and I'm the go to guy for headlight restorations , I use the same 3m kit you used in this video but now they have one with a protectant wax that you apply right after the rubbing compound . it will last longer than 1 yr with it

[@Visionist]

I used 700rpm drill with the kit. I thought this wasn't going to be powerful enough, as the instructions suggest using a drill up to 1500rpm. However, to my pleasant suprise, i used it and it removed the glaze. All of it! So, who's in doubt, try it. You barely need to put any pressure on the drill. I was afraid it'd overheat, scratch the headlight. Nope. If you're using the rechargeable hand drill, make sure the battery is all the way full. Today, i will be doing the headlight for the 2nd time. There are so scratches (not caused by the restorating) and i wanna see if i can get them out. *thumbs up*

[@Visionist]

When buying the 3M kit, bear in mind, that it doesn't come with the UV protective paste/cream/wax. So, for that, you would need to buy it seperatedly or purchase the turtle wax head light kit.

[@MrHeHim]

Hey Eric (TheCarGuy), I've seen a bit of headlight restoration videos and most, if not all, do not make a "permanent" fix. I would think it would be cool if you try out what i do. Using 200 grit wet sanding (with your hand or machine) and finish with a horizontal sanding. That would be to help paint from running. Next would be to not only mask off the area around the headlight to prevent damage from sanding but also rip open a few trash bags to catch overspray. I've been using "Rust-Oleum American Accents Ultra Cover 2x" it claims its UV resistant and bonds to plastic. Two coats at first, then i wait a week for the paint to harden well to lightly sand down all the small bumps and only use one coat. The paint on that coat a week later tends to smoothen itself very well and you don't have to polish. First time i tried it was on a Volvo S60 i had about 4+ years ago. I got rid of it about a year and a half but they still looked perfect. I also did that on my mom's 2005 CTS and sisters 2006 Altima, but on the Altima i got a bit lazy and didn't sand down/off all factory coat perfectly and noticed a slight brown haze where i didn't a year later, along with paint peeling off in the middle of that area el oh el. Also did that on a few friends cars (didn't mess them up though). Thanks!!

[@alblaze6544]

how do you know there not yellow still with yellow glasses on

[@thingshappen9199]

LOL

[@kendus01]

😂😂😂

[@awesomeluis]

Very good point! Lol.

[@mdee7817]

😂

[@waterhead1029]

Old post, but humor is timeless...Good one.

[@Bluegrassriver8]

Plastic for headlights should have been banned by the HIghway Safety Admin. It always ends up reducing visibility and causes accidents. Glass never fades or oxidizes.

[@RCman9291]

The reason they use plastic is cause if it brakes its big parts not shatters and plastic is cheaper to make for the companys and if they only sold glass ones im sure u cant change the bulb in them cause most got gasses inside i think

[@Matasky2010]

Headlights do NOT cause accidents, what a ridiculous comment LMFAO...

[@Matasky2010]

RS1 QUOTE: ‘It always ends up reducing visibility and CAUSES ACCIDENTS’...that’s exactly what the OP said..

[@Matasky2010]

@RS1 Uhhh...he said the 'reduced visibility' of the plastic headlights 'CAUSES ACCIDENTS' I'm not sure how you can dispute that, you seem to be having trouble connecting the 2 parts of his second sentence lol...

[@Matasky2010]

Okay..every part of a car breaks down over time, including headlights- that's why you have to do MAINTENANCE- that includes the headlights..If you let your headlights get so badly oxidised to the point your visibility is dangerously reduced, that's called NEGLECT...the accident would be the driver's (your) fault, not the headlights lol...

[@B1GDaddyFatStax]

I haven't used any kits other than Mother's™, but this helps broaden the horizons for me. I liked their kit initially because everything leading up to the final polish was wet sanding. It seems to get a pretty good sheen on things right off the bat without taking as much material off as the 3M™ appears to. The kit is manual labor until you get to the polish which does have it's drawbacks, but it's more manageable in tight areas and you can focus on the more affected places of the lenses. This is just my observation and everyone has their preferences, but I may give 3M™ a try as well as Meguires™ and a couple others. This is definitely an eye opener for me and I appreciate your insight and review. Great job sir and keep those videos coming!

[@brendancaldwell7755]

The Hand kit would take longer and require alot of elbow crease. I'm going for the drill required version of this product.

[@alexchambers6208]

The 3M kit is great but it should really come with 1000 and 2000 as well. In my experience the 3000 Trizac disc cannot handle the imperfections left behind from 800. I bought regular sheets of 1000/2000 wet sanding paper and use it by hand in between 800 & 3000. Polish with Meg's PlastX and seal with Opti-coat! Best method.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

I think I already have that sand paper, great point!

[@keithroberts5611]

3M have spent big bucks on research for producing this kit, And god knows how many hours testing,The kit is meant for heavy to medium oxidation, The range of grit sizes are perfect along with the trizact p3000, I would strongly recommend this product to anyone to restore there headlights back to full clarity and shine, 🤔😃👍

[@uf9309]

I was skeptical going in. You can’t tell how good the results are in the video. So glad I bought this stuff.

[@herbb8412]

Glad to see someone on youtube using eye protection while sanding/grinding. Most are sure to wear gloves, but rarely is eye safety considered

[@matthewpluschau1899]

Thanks Eric - ive had this kit for a while and was reluctant to actually begin for fear of messing this up. your video was light years better than the included instructions. cant wait to get started.

[@mathersm]

if you need a super oxidized headlamp I could bring my car over LOL

[@ultraseb7839]

mike mathers

[@prunga308]

Thanks Eric, I like your videos, they have come in handy especially since you do a lot of Hondas ( my mother has an Accord). As for MY headlight treatment, I use a paper towel and a squirt of Windex and the "glass" headlights on my 69 corvette just shine every time.

[@mexinumba1]

I am doing my headlghts while watching this video, this 3m kit is Amazing!!

[@vecetti37]

Really liked the steps- Thanks! Surprised to find that the newest (Oct. 2023) 3M kit no longer comes with the rubbing compound and pad. Maybe I'll try and use some manually to help.

[@gregbellinger5765]

I used the 3M kit using my drill to sand oxidized headlamps for a 2003 Lexus ES300. The drill really is much faster than by hand. I did not think it was going to work, but then after using all the sandpaper grades following the directions, I sprayed the headlamps with three coats of a marine clearcoat. They turned out to look spectacular. The next 6-12 months will show how durable the clearcoat is. I would do it again if needed.

[@robertgold3868]

Great video. Thank you for the information. We used 3M Headlight Restoration System 3900, and they came out fantastic!

[@antandshell]

Ah! Now this is a great DIY! Used same kit and many other methods before this 3m kit and the 3m kit is still working its magic 2 years later!

[@waltoliver3376]

Used your video to remind me . used 3M product before ...good to refresh my memory

[@kasimjohri4622]

used this same restoration kit after watching this video. I was very impressed with the end result. Thanks for the review.

[@walkerscranger]

I like Eric The Car Guy because he keeps it simple and real.

[@greyphantome2617]

This thing actually works, great product 👍

[@Dappersworth]

Always wetsand headlights, and add a non-yellowing and UV-resistant clearcoat after polishing, but clean off the polish first. Wetsanding prevents the sanding pads from getting clogged, and ALWAYS clean the headlight between sanding steps, preferrably with isopropyl alcohol and a rag, NOT paper towel.

[@acwarzonehighlights6954]

Wet sand with all 3 pads

[@jonhill8741]

I've used this kit a couple times on my vehicles and have had complete success with it. Today i even used it on one of my old mototcycle helmets face shield. It did a great job on it. It's kind of scary sanding the plastic, after you sand on it and look at what you have just done to the plastic, you think it will never clear up. But if you follow the instructions very carefully it will turn out clear as new.

[@richpalmisano1740]

There's one more step! You need a UV sealant or else all your work will just oxidize again within a year. Great video.

[@pjpdjs]

Guess what I used this kit for and it worked great? Repairing a scratched plastic projector lens! Thanks for the excellent tutorial.

[@keithroberts5611]

3M headlight restoration kit is in my opinion is the best for your money, Why because 3m have done a ton of research to get it right, Not only that the sanding disk sizes are correct to maximise headlight clarity and shine, The Trizact p3000 is magical, Used with a variable speed cordless drill you can't go wrong, The only extra thing needed is a certified Clearcoat with UV protection, Both hand and power kits are the best!!! End of 🤔🇬🇧👍

[@nc9666]

Than no toy so much car guy. It took the fear out of me to do this job. Your the best

[@MarzNet256]

Another great video Eric. It's also a good idea to spread the polishing compound over the entire surface before starting drill. This will prevent compound from flinging off the pad.

[@todtalk3912]

This is the best drill I ever owned lol. Its 2022 I have the same one, and upgraded battery now, but it is still just as good as the day I got it. Never replaced any brushes or anything. great drill.

[@willythehero88]

Sure glad I found your demo. The 3M 39045 kit, the one with the protectant, is available at Amazon; it is labeled as "3M 39045 Headlight Renewal Kit with Protectant". Now, I need to get a drill, too.

[@Erix7810]

Willy thehero did you ever get a drill? Update please

[@mikenakama]

tried the 3m product for the headlights found it at Ross's for 12.99 worked great followed you video recommendations!

[@2thePtBassTuT]

" one is for a kit..that doesn't require any tools at all..." Wrong... if you use the non-drill kit ... you become the tool ... lol

[@DroneShots_UK]

Thanks for doing this video, I was hugely nervous about it and when I got to the last stage I was still nervous. Suddenly it all became clear 😊

[@MrNidogg]

Hey Eric. I've had really good luck wet sanding headlights with 400-600-800 grit and then applying clear coat. The clear coat makes them last for years as opposed to the months you get from the repair kits. Spray-Max makes a 2k urethane in a rattle can (there is a special system in the can to puncture an internal seal and combine the urethane and hardener) that would be ideal for this. Personally I use a regular clear coat and a cheap harbor freight detail sprayer with my compressor.

[@ReydioTube]

Thank you sir 👊 attempting this today for the first time. It's always much less scary after watching you do it 😅

[@rokers45]

Eric is the best around .....I have watched alot of his videos and found them very useful ....good talk through videos .... He takes his time to explain in depth why ..where ....what ...... Hey Eric keep up the good work ...... London UK ....

[@thebiggestmac]

Great video. I used the 3M kit on a Ford Windstar several years ago. It works great and like you said, it doesn't take that long. Thanks for convincing me to use the 3M again to the lenses on my wife's car.

[@simonellis1854]

Done mine today after watching your video, was a great help. They came up OK for 18 year old lights.

[@ebaysnipa]

Used this kit myself and it worked great,but I noticed that the oxidation came back quicker,I think some lenses may have a coating that gets removed the restoration process, so you may want to consider adding a final coat of a spray sealant or other type to make the repair last longer.

[@anitaverduzco821]

Great information delivered in a clear, systematic and relaxed manner. Affable, easy going guy!

[@macdaddy1617]

I use Mother’s Aluminum Polish with the same drill bid Polish. 7-10 min done with McGuire UV protection spray. Every 6 months a slight touch up.

[@ajwiant9928]

Thanks for this video!! My headlight broke and the only one I could find at a reasonable price was frosted.. this helped a lot!!

[@wethepeople3124]

Followed the steps today. My headlight looks amazing.

[@heavymechanic2]

Has anyone tried the protective sealers to keep the headlights looking new? Blue Magic, Megauirs, Mothers, Turtle Wax, Etc

[@ranger178]

i just started using the meguliar 's spray in a few years maybe i will know if it works definitely easier then the sanding and refinishing

[@TechTimeWithEric]

When I worked for Advance Auto, I did my uncle's headlights and taillights in the store parking lot with that kit. Almost 4 years later, they still look pretty good, not perfect, but still pretty good.

[@jackiefreeman9473]

Hi Eric. Your video was helpful. My headlights look like new.

[@ereeves116]

Eric! Haven't watched your videos lately buy I dig the new haircut! At my shop we have what I would call the "ultimate 3m kit". Its got 5 levels of the sanding disks and comes with an air powered DA rotary tool to prevent the melted plastic you talk about. Then there's the buffing gun whish is also an air powered DA buffer (don't know the difference between the two, maybe speed or orbital action). The polishing uses two cutting pads with two different compounds. I haven't seen your drill job up close but on video, looks the same as our lengthy process! Maybe we're wasting our time! Anyway, only thing to add is that we spray the lenses with soapy water to wet sand every step of the way, I think it leads to a cleaner cut, but based on your video, the step before the polishing pad seems to clean up everything prior so who knows!

[@EDDIEGARAGE]

Here in Australia, we use Gumption very simple and effective and good as new and cost next to nothing without a bull

[@stonepointdrivingschool2044]

I use a blue kitchen scotch scratch (blue does not scratch plastic in the kitchen Ex. microwave controls, the green scratch does scratch/scars plastic) and Meguiars Restore & Polish which did an amazing job. I was still not satisfied, so used the blue scratch pad and wet baking soda - which took another layer of the oxidated yellow scum off. I did use Meguiars polish to try and protect it for 6 months. This only lasts 6 months, it must be restored biannually.

[@matermark]

I thought the 3m kits came with the UV inhibitor wipes that are used last but I didn't see you do that step; I see Project Farm did a shootout of headlight restore kits, and his top two were the 3m drill kit and the Sylvania kit, not necessarily in that order. The Sylvania had the UV topcoat last step, and looked closest to new pieces of polycarbonate. I did notice 3m sells the UV protectant in a separate kit, 3m #39173, for around $5. Hope this helps.

[@piotrstube]

I couldn't get rid of the foggy effect created by sanding - and got really worried - but after two passes with the buffing pad and a cutting compound, using both damp and dry methods my worries were gone and the headlight came up a treat. So good that I didn't use another clear coat or similar just some headlight restorer and sealer and they look very nice!

[@quickguesswho]

For the love of god, dont buy the hand method.... worst mistake in my life..

[@TDubsKid]

same, I only use the drill kits after trying a hand kit

[@natenowicki1426]

WHY? DOES IT NOT WORK?

[@paintwizard1157]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXLLnZ13i7qtd6M heres how I do it ........never fails

[@Bull1the1Great]

I always prefer to do it by hand because you can feel the contours of the headlights , how hard you press, the resistance it gives you, and overall better sanding, more even. it pays off to wreak your hands at least for this

[@alwaystiredg3788]

Same

[@garyfillmore1440]

I've used this kit many times, probably six or seven times, on different cars. I have two suggestions. Use an angled drill if you have one, it's easier on the arms. Also, use some UV protectant on the lens when done. They say it is supposed to make the lens last longer.

[@willie_stacks]

I have purchased both of these kits - undecided while shopping if I was prepared go with a drill & afraid of over cutting too deep & causing any issues of applying over pressure, over heating the lenses ot causing swearl marks(my worst nightmare. I think personally I will stick with the hands on 3M kit(when sanding anything for a polished finished its assets best to sand in the same direction). It comes with almost double the amount of sanding pads and not just for multiple uses but for multiple applications. And the hands-on sander makes you feels like you have a lot more control over making sure the corners are evenly sanded, unlike with the drill lacks discipline on where you've sanded already, really moving back & forward at such a pace you sort of lose track as to what portion has been went over as much as the others. of course if your headlights are extremely bad, and they're not exclusive to replace then the drill is the given option. but for someone like myself just trying to give a little lease on life to my 2007, buying replacements due to error isn't much of a wanted option($1400/each)

[@morechickenplease3763]

This video gave me the confidence to do it myself! Awesome! LOVED IT!

[@Ajicles]

I found that the shank of the tool is the same as a die grinder. I used the wool pad with 2000 grit sand paper and a polishing compound makes it look like brand new.

[@cryangallegos]

Saw the drill attachment kit by the register at my local O'Reilly's (they are awesome btw) and that brought me here as I've been meaning to do this with a self-made kit, but the drill arbor attachment is almost too good to pass up. Just wanted to add that a good follow up after polishing is a few coats of high gloss rustoleum clearcoat to protect the plastic from future damage.

[@stevenlau79]

Thank you Sir. I watched this video in 2015 and watched it again in 2021 for different car.

[@MrJerryjones]

Great video. I thought it would be more complicated and not look so good until you explained it so well. And thanks for the other comments. I'm on my way to get some sealant now,

[@hnkfsh81]

I restored the headlights on my wife's 2000 Honda insight using this kit and had excellent results. If did not work well on my old Bimmer, but I think the hazing on its lenses are very deep. I'll need to replace the plastic lenses on that car.

[@151octane]

I been using mothers mag and aluminum polish for years before kids where available and it works great for this. Also after polishing you may wanna put some plastic protecting running compound to help the plastic stay looking nice

[@black3stsh33p]

Had already bought the drill kit and was looking for better instructions than the paper one they include. I was so glad to see you had used the same product so I knew for sure what I was doing before I went messing things up and having to buy new lenses (cuz I don't have that kind of cash lol) thanks for the video, very helpful eric, as always.

[@morphixnet]

I wonder, as I started digging into the subject, many pro recommend treating headlights with special sealant after polishing that will prevent quicker oxidation as the pores of the plastic are now open. Headlights from factory come with protective film too that makes them last longer.

[@logmegadeth72]

The 3M kit is the best for really oxidized headlights. Quickly removes the oxidized layer with the different grit level sandpapers and buffs it smooth. I've tried the TurtleWax brand that is done by hand and was not impressed. Barely did anything. Only thing about the 3M kit is you should use some sort of sealant on the outside to protect the headlight fro further oxidation. I've done a few of the family cars and you can see some of the oxidation coming back after a few years.

[@outskirtscustoms]

Best method I have found is to just wet sand the headlight with 2,000 grit then gradually go finer and finer. You'll see a yellowish substance start to build up but it washes right off. When you get up to a very fine grit you can use some rubbing compound to make them perfect.

[@roguescot13]

Just did my headlights.... They look pretty good. Thank you for the video, it was VERY helpful!!

[@markelliott8861]

Good video... you will use fewer sanding pads if you take an air hose and blow off the debris after a couple of passes. Definitely use the slow speeds that Eric recommends!

[@freddysflyz]

Great demo! I bought this kit and got stellar results! I also bought the 3M UV Sealer. Thanks for the video!

[@KickinItWith80sBayBe]

For best results never do this DRY always wet the headlight w water and keep it moist from beginning to end when sanding. This will last a year tops it's not a permanent fix. A great end all might be a clear coat after you do this.

[@garretts91]

+Dario Turcios I agree. I cant see why 3M suggests to dry sand from the start. I also always apply automotive clear coat after I sand. Results last a long time, much longer than the method.

[@vinnyt42allday]

I found using a ceramic coating like kenzo has made some of my clients headlights last years before needing more polishing light wet sanding.

[@DrewDiaz]

Polished out the headlight covers on my car with some flitz and a rag, it took me longer to find the flitz than it did to do the job, as long as I was after it I did my son’s car too- came back inside and my coffee was still warm .

[@amicloud_yt]

"Hand attachment" LMAO well that's one way to put it

[@02chevyguy]

I bought one of the "3M Quick And East Headlight Restoration Kit" at O'Reilly's . All the kit includes: 1 Trizac 3000 sandpaper and 2 small pkg. of clear coat. Nothing else. Would this sufficiently get the job done? I don't have a drill and there's no room for one in my budget. Perhaps if I buy the other 2 grades of sandpaper as well? Any comments would greatly be appreciated.

[@yevmust5407]

yeah its nice and would be so for a whiler then gets even worse unless you put some protective layer on it, seen kits with sprayer for final coating a bit more expensive but they worth it.

[@ganzonomy]

I did this with the hand kit to my mom's 2010 Odyssey. My end result was purdy as well. I can only imagine the drill with the 3000 grit

[@b5maddog]

Awesome demo EricTheCarGuy! This is something I have to get soon for my car. Thanks

[@TheNonSmokingTire]

I use the 3M drill kit where I work and they come out looking brand new!

[@Kimzeb0410]

Thank you for your video. You're very good at explaining what to do. My husband is now going to clean my headlight. Thank you again.

[@djnevous3us]

i still use that drill attachment for buffing got the meguiars buffing pads works great

[@rdrpgr239]

I like this guy --- dont know why just very communicative... that and not so much bullshit ad-lib

[@Jimmyxsx]

You have to spray the head lens with a clear coat, that protective sealant that comes with the kit doesn't work.

[@fredhart7904]

Good job explaining the procedure, end results look good, However it did not work so well for me and my grandson, 2005 dodge pickup, Headlight still looked frosted after the job, I may try another product next time, Maybe my headlights are much worse condition,

[@Maintenance63]

I use an orbital buffer and rubbing compound. Super fast and the results are worth the effort.