Resurrection Part 2

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the comment, it was one of my earlier videos and haven't had the radio in a video in over a year or more now! I not or able to change the videos but I have learned from the viewers earlier comments. Cheers, ;{)-----

[@j7639-z4f]

Software engineer here. I'm thankfull for your sharing this. Incredible craftsmanship. You know your stuff. I'm going back to like all your other videos now.

[@SJgunguy24]

Keith, your videos inspire me to learn more and more about just getting good at everything. I'm a tinknocker by trade but picked machining along the way moonlighting in race shops. Now I've been building guns and doing gunsmith work to pay the bills since work died off. It's a good feeling to know that people always turn to you when the cards are down and no one person has the range of skills to get the job done. Why couldn't I live near your shop, talent and skills like that are dying.

[@gj3072]

This response will appear on this video, the thing is that they are all great. I am redicovering my old trade, and learn a lot of new things as well!! Keep them coming!!

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the Comment, I'll see about putting it on the list...

[@KeithFenner]

@RobRichmondRPG Well, that was why I filled in a bit of the worn away area in the casting. Like every other thing it's going up in price, just noticed it took a 75% leap in cost since the last time I bought some. Brings on a new importance in reclaimed babbitt! The need to buy more was that you allways work with more than your using, when it comes to foundry. The original design, of about .150" per side is a good wall on babbitt... :)

[@KeithFenner]

@TheClassicEngineer Some do and some just ask me to help them. I don't compete for bids or production work. Some times I do give a not to exceed price. Fast service, fast payment, I'm a Jobber not a Banker :)

[@not2fast4u2c]

I have never seen babbit bearings poured and made So I am enjoying watching and learning !!!

[@KeithFenner]

@vondeliusc Remember I only started my reamer with a reverse direction, because I had scrapped the start of the bore to size! Just didn't want you to take that as a regular practice...

[@KeithFenner]

There are no machine surfaces to locate off of and the amount needed to fit is about .001 to .0015 on the dia. I did run the reamer through but I scraped it first to insure a straight line...

[@KeithFenner]

@billdlv Your right, and that is my rule too! Two things that made it OK, one scraping the bore to size for X depth and soft material. Its a good thing I had a good pre heat other wise it would of lapped with the stop and go pour...

[@KeithFenner]

@TheClassicEngineer Ya, it had a gang of six presses on it, I still have two left, been selling them for a couple hundred each. may convert one to a tool post grinder...

[@KeithFenner]

@DieselCrawler86 Babbitt would have a better wear posiblities in most casses, if the lubrication was perfect. You would have to have a finished bore to install a turned bearing. As long as the teflon last...

[@KeithFenner]

@DieselCrawler86 That was enough babbitt for about 12 bearings of that size, still cheaper than line bore and turning two 660 busings, that would have less life...

[@KeithFenner]

@devvon Right around 500, is good so you don't get any lapping in the pour.

[@leegenix]

Sorry for being so critical, but in addition to the visual aspects, the spoken and descriptive words are so important, it's the makes the difference between success and failure. That's how much I appreciate your work.

[@KeithFenner]

@TorqueRider2000 The best and fare way to bill out any service, is time and materials.

[@KeithFenner]

I'm not going to try and rack my head to figure old time & material cost on projects past and I not going to make it a practice to post them in the future, a couple times when a job is done and the mind is still retaining that info I may reply with a respectable cost, as I have in the comments past. I would rather focus on talents and attitudes that getter done. ;{)-----

[@todlindley8101]

Thanks Keith, Big Learn, Very interesting !!

[@KeithFenner]

The original bearings lasted over 60 years or better and would of went longer if they were lubed more often. Give the same treatment, I dought any other kind of bearing would last longer...

[@KeithFenner]

Temp sticks are a chalk or crayon that melts at variable levels of temperatures! The sticks are rated for different temperatures, what they do to the materials in the stick to create the levels of ranges, I have no clue but they are very easy to use and give you the input you need for your heating projects. ;{)---

[@KeithFenner]

That clip of audio is called New Life...

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

Another fine episode from University of Keith :-) Just getting ready to do a reaming job (0.5"-aircraft landing gear) so your tips are great.. Probably goes without saying, but I am guessing you will be proposing hose extensions for the zerks (for external access) and a lubricating schedule to prevent this from happening as soon, next time? -Christian

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks Tom, back a few months ago, I had a few comments in regards to numbering the video and since then, I have been paying more attention to that and when I get some time, plan on modifying these old titles to correspond. ;{)-----

[@spokehedz]

I was just going to ask why you were doing the bearing surfaces by hand! Nice. I'm not a machinst, but I am enjoying the heck out of watching old hands work on things.

[@tfp777]

Nice quick work, thanks for sharing.

[@dstone1701]

I'm curious, can you reclaim the old Babbitt? How about the waste that spills over? It would seem to me that if the new stuff costs $200 for a small block, there would be some economy in resmelting it. In electronic manufacturing, when the lead solder used in wave-solder machinery gets changed out, the supplier takes back the old stuff for re-smelting. The pricing reflects credit for the old material. But then, those machines use solder by the ton.

[@TheClassicEngineer]

Thanks for the reply Keith, Too true! Bet that makes one solid table, so we might be seeing a toolpost grinder video one day? I'll look forward to that:) Best wishes, Simon.

[@TheClassicEngineer]

Keith, one more thing, that lovely table you work off, it looks as though it's cast iron, and has what looks like a coolant trough cast in, was it off a bank of drills, 3 or 4 drill heads in line for repetition work or some other sort of machine table? Thanks, regards, Simon.

[@crazymanmichael8386]

as an absolute metal moving beginner I am enjoying learning from you, tom lipton, adam booth and several others who are so generously sharing their knowledge with the likes of me via you tube. my wuestion: what is the purpose of the pads(apparently aluminium) between the work and the chuck when you were wirking the bores of the collars?.

[@paulanderson2803]

It's to keep from damaging the surface of the collars

[@NeonGreenPage]

Is oil a better lubricant then grease for babbit bearings? I'm asking because I have a band saw that needs new bearings poured in the near future. Currently it has zerk fittings on but originally i think it had oil cups.Thanks Kieth for another great video!

[@teeroux]

I have a question on the babbitt pour. Could you just plug the zert hole and blind the back and pour a babbitt plug without the shaft? Then come back and precision drill the babbitt plug into a bearing for the shaft?

[@bradleywilliams2401]

Hey Keith HRU ?? U make the process look so easy the way u explain & show what your (were) about 2 du !! lol's Take Care B Safe

[@leegenix]

I find this series fascinating. My only complaint is the background noise from the radio. Hearing the lecture is too important to have music going on and cheapens the serious points of the lecture. Thank you

[@fuzzy1dk]

Would it not be possible to pour both bearings at the same time? looked like if you put a collar on both ends you could pour one flip it and pour the other

[@KeithFenner]

I started with Neglect, then Resurrection, then Resurrection 2 I will get to putting them all in the playlist as one! ;{)---

[@steveisler]

does it have to have a lead babbit, could you maching a delrin bushing, or bearing bronze, it seems like it would last longer

[@bentontool]

Another great video series... which temperature stick did you use for the babbit pour?

[@KeithFenner]

With the load one sided better to have straight grove.

[@DieselCrawler86]

@KEF791 forgive me I don't know much if anything about Babbitt. does it have better wear characteristics then the 660? Seeing as you can do that many with it, price is not so bad after all. Do you use the muffin tin to cook with as well as make the blocks? lol

[@AstraWerke]

Very interesting to watch as always, Keith! What in particular does the babbit consist of? Greetings Adrian

[@3347861]

Thinking out loud..... Would a boring machine be practical for fitting these bearings?

[@TheClassicEngineer]

Hi Keith, excellent inspiring video's as always, thoroughly enjoyable. Do your customers want a quotation before you do a job or just ask you to get on with it? Here in the UK folk want a quote before you do a job, will hold you to it no matter how long it took, then don't want to pay when it's done! Takes all the fun out of a job!!

[@seanyyg]

Hey Keith, I'm a big fan. Just out of curiosity, how much would a repair like this cost? Seems like a LOT of work on your part! =) Thanks!

[@02stanggt]

Was the reamer that you used a 1.5005 or a 1.501 to get that fit on the shaft?

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

@KEF791 In the case of this project, I must create 4 longitudinal holes to accept brass 0.5 x 0.625" bushings in four fiberglass 'ears' (4.5"x15" spacing) which will mount the LG with four 1/4" bolts, and I will use a Harbor Freight adjustable reamer. Otherwise-check-reamers only fwd direction..

[@toolman7540]

You really know your work Keith. giving jack his jacket.

[@Sjanzo]

if the chalk doesnt stick, the pre-heat is hot enough ? And how hot is that actually ? I love learning old tricks :)

[@stanleyrodgers3375]

Keith, what group (artists) did it? Thanks!

[@dstone1701]

Good to hear. Totally unrelated request here, though. Can you recap, in rough terms, how many hours go into each project? I can understand if you'd prefer to keep that to yourself - especially if you bill by the job and not time & materials, but after watching a string of 1/2 hr videos, its tough to get a feel for the total time for a job.

[@billdlv]

I guess turning the reamer backwards to get it started true in the bore won't hurt the reamer since the babbitt is soft? I can remember my auto shop teacher saying never to run a reamer backwards, kinda like filing back and forth with a file. That pour had some excitement! Work safe :)

[@mrbluenun]

I proberbly missed it, can you say what temp you have to have before pouring the babbitt please?

[@chemech]

The soot works like a mold release compound to prevent sticking...

[@DieselCrawler86]

sweet Jesus $200 for that little thing?! would it not be cheaper and easier to just use a 660 bronze and bush it? Thanks for taking the time to film this in such detail at your cost.

[@KeithFenner]

The Babbitt bearing last about three times longer and is six times easier to pour new, than boring new locations for a finished bushing or ball bearing to seat. ;{)-----

[@wildcat19671]

Keith, here is a company in California, san fran I think that sells 4 lbs of # 2 Babbitt for 69 dollars. no idea what shipping will be but it cant be that bad. (Roto Metals )

[@carlmic7]

How can you possibly bill fairly for this? I would have considered building 2 new yokes with pillow blocks.

[@sinsilius]

A bit of a dumb question: why not adapt the shaft and collars to ball bearings?

[@KeithFenner]

The cost. ;{)-----

[@sinsilius]

Do babbets live longer than ball bearings?

[@KeithFenner]

Martynas Valūnas They can depending on the maintenance of each, they can ;{)-----

[@todlindley8101]

Martynas Valūnas Nice to see it done the old way though!!!

[@sinsilius]

Yes, it definately is

[@KeithFenner]

If you had machined surfaces on the outside surfaces of the housing matching the bore axis, to set up on, you could zero in on an existing bore and ream it or bore it with a boring bar! ;{)---

[@terrywilloughby7485]

I was a mechanic/technician for 35+ years and was curious why you didn't upgrade the Babbitt bushings to the oil impregnated brass or bronze bushings?

[@Blazer02LS]

+Terry Willoughby Cost. Plus babbitt is much more forgiving of poor lubrication.

[@jayphilipwilliams]

+Terry Willoughby I just asked the same question in the last video. :)

[@motd567]

good work ;) whats the song at around 10:27 called?

[@gregg4164]

You should also get a plumbers ladle for these smaller pours. it is really dangerous to be handling the big pot on a small pour like that. You just pre-heat the ladle before you dip it in the pot.

[@KeithFenner]

I was using my 500 or 550 stick...

[@stevenblokken]

Wat is the purpose of "smoking" the shaft? Is it to get a surface the babbit wil not stick to?

[@benandrews9614]

I will butt in. Yes, the bores on the cast parts were ground to shiny metal, babbit likes to stick to that Smoke the shaft with the acetylene torch and it will not stick plus it adds a slight bit of clearance as well to help get the shaft out.. Keith is a true craftsman, not many around anymore.

[@futten3230]

what material is the babit?

[@GnosisMan50]

Scrap? Why not bore or ream it out?

[@joshuapearson2857]

Hey Keith, beautiful handiwork as always. I'm not a machinist, but I am curious from an engineer's point of view. Why do you smoke the shaft and collar before you pour your babbit? Does that make it easier to remove the finished product from the holding shaft?

[@polanskiman]

I am not a machinist but I would think that the purpose of smoking the shaft would be to prevent the bearing from sticking to the shaft. The carbon layer isolates the two components, shaft and bearing.

[@georgesmillion3131]

Super Keith !!! Georges

[@crazycory25]

What does the smoking do?

[@W6AMH]

My God man, you have the hands of a sturgeon! LOL

[@roylwchez]

what's the smoke for?

[@joeywjones]

It almost seems like it's been cheaper to buy a new saw don't get me wrong you do outstanding work

[@chemech]

Ah! McMaster-Carr... That explains much... I'm in California, so I doubted that even as insane as Massachusetts can be about lead, that *that* was the sole - or even main - reason for the difference... McMaster is great for their speed of delivery - 90% of the time, if I order it before 10 pm, it's on the UPS truck the next afternoon... Still, there are some things where you just get "shafted"... ;^) Eric

[@KeithFenner]

@TorqueRider2000 I'd ball park it about 1800...

[@KeithFenner]

To create a non stick surface, on the shaft so the Babbitt don't stick to it...

[@TSKseattle]

He's amazing - he speaks Portuguese too!

[@oodimvale]

muito trabalho.......não seria melhor comprar uma peça nova...??? ou fazer uma peça inteira nova...???

[@TSKseattle]

If I may... In your series with the same names, it's always better to number the first one too, so we can search "-name- part" and see all, not just 2 thru x.

[@KeithFenner]

The fine grit embeds itself into the soft Babbitt material and scores shaft. ;{)-----

[@SteveRobReviews]

Fantastic !!

[@KeithFenner]

It acts, as a release agent, like flower to dough...

[@TSKseattle]

Why not use a fine grit sand paper flapper?

[@oodimvale]

O canal de lubrificação não deveria ser helicoidal para melhor lubrificar o eixo...??? A qui no Brasil esse serviço seria em torno de R$ 5.000,00 pois dispensa muitas horas maquinário e material....

[@ADeviatedSeptum]

The smoking is what keeps the Babbit from fusing to the shaft, i assume?

[@xull1x123]

excellent work!

[@JAMESMANHUNT9]

at 13:07 love shack by the b52s is playing

[@KeithFenner]

The diference between a scrape and a machine cut is to much clearance. You may be somewhere, were there is no machine shop or power! ;{)------

[@TSKseattle]

I found it on Amazon too (out of curiosity) for about $16 a stick

[@KeithFenner]

It was a piece of machine that has run for more than the average persons life time and will run that again if maintenance properly ;{)-----

[@KeithFenner]

Yes, MC Master Carr has gone wacko on the price, but on the other hand make sure your pricing the same grade of Tin Babbitt. I know I was getting stroked and that's why I brought the price up in the first place. ;{)-----

[@Sjanzo]

Ahh, so its not ordinary chalk you use... i'll ask for it at the industrial supply wholesalers in town. Thanks !!

[@flyingpictures1100]

Superb!

[@larrycosby2010]

Why not use a reamer on Babbitt instead of hand scrapping?

[@carlmic7]

Steve Miller band! A great motivator

[@GnosisMan50]

Master Craftsman ..for sure.

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks I'll check them out! ;{)------

[@oodimvale]

poderia ter colocado um metal mais duro(bronze ou até mesmo latão) ou melhor ainda rolamentos...

[@KeithFenner]

Yes, you could go though all the extra work if you chose to do it that way. ;{)-----

[@TractorMan104]

I was yelling don't forget the plug and you heard me

[@KeithFenner]

A couple days labor and couple hunderd in materials and tooling. ;{)----