Lets rebuild the Toshiba Satellite 4000CDS

[@tiporari]

My first IT job was servicing laptops and we were a Toshiba shop. I've repaired and refurbished hundreds of these computers. I really liked them. They were well made, very reliable, and easy to service. Couldn't stand those passive matrix LCD's. We'd always hang on to the CDT's with the active matrix displays.

[@herrv1906]

You managed to assemble the puzzle back ! Amazing ! 😁 Take care of you and your family ! 😉

[@RetroSpector78]

Thanks! Luckily we're all fine.

[@ez45]

That looks so intimidating, good job! I own a 4010CDT on which I replaced the two NiMH batteries two years ago, but taking off the cover of the bottom housing was pushing my comfort zone. There are so many small pieces to these, I would be losing my mind at this stage.

[@thedungeondelver]

We decommed so many of these at work...I took one out of the disposal pile and wanted to see if I could upgrade it or learn about its innards. I got about...idk, maybe I got the seven big screws out of the bottom and was confronted with barrier after barrier to entry, and I eventually just gave up on it. That would have been in '99 or so. Nice to see what I had wondered about all those years back, thank you!

[@TheDutchShepherd]

Glad to hear you're feeling better!

[@djpirtu2]

It's really surprising that these Toshiba-batteries still work after all these years. I have Toshiba 320CDT and it's original battery works about hour when DOS-gaming.

[@morganb900]

i have a Toshiba satellite same model it lasts like 30 minutes on windows 98

[@undefinedperson7816]

Hope you and family were healthy now. Thanks for these 2 educational videos (laptop unmount/mount). Good cleaning done.

[@tyta1]

I was a huge fan of Toshiba laptops up until the early 2000s. I used to own a Tecra 8200. They were very well built (in Regensburg, Germany by the way) and easy to work on if needed.

[@SweetandSourohmy]

The first laptop I ever bought was a Toshiba in 2004, it was really good I think I paid like 900$ at circuit city. Last summer when I decided to buy a computer I couldn't find and Toshibas so I got a Dell XPS instead 🤣

[@BenState]

Look up easy-outs mate, and I would suggest phosphoric acid over acetic acid for rust clean and conversion. Works better and prevents further corrosion.

[@mattgarlets3939]

Glad you are feeling better!

[@RetroSpector78]

Thank you!

[@mima85]

Those were made in times when Toshiba actually built good quality laptops. After mid 2000s their build quality just plummeted. You indeed did a very good restoration job on this unit, especially considering the "I have anything to loose" mindset you had about this task. Other people would just have roughly slammed the thing together without caring too much about the quality of their job, while you in fact took good care of the machine. Well done. As for the plastic stickers covering the screws, try to gently bend them in the opposite direction they're bent now, this should flatten them out and make them stick better to the plastic without popping out too much.

[@ericlee5581]

Those are awesome for DOS, actually... it's got a OPL3 chip sitting on an ISA bus connection... :)

[@jothain]

I have 470cdt and it's one of the best dos laptops I know of. Good display, Soundblaster compatible and fairly decent performance.

[@ericlee5581]

@@jothain It's even decent for earlier DOS games if you turn off the cache using Setmul. Brings it to about the same speed level as a 386-20mhz

[@9.peanut]

I just came to comment on the thumbnail, LOL. The Office 97 branding and splash screen were so nice. I miss Microsoft having a personality.

[@myw4y]

Welcome back, glad to see you are ok:)

[@thedopplereffect00]

9:59 did you clean all that brown flux off those solder joints?

[@renepedersen7141]

Speaking as a technician, I really don't like screwdrivers useing theese small bits, they never seem to get a decent grip. I prefer an assortment of screwdrivers :) I never understood the rubber band method. But I'm a master of removing busted screws! :) A lot of times useing a screwdriver for flathead screws can get a grip in a busted PH or PZ screw. Screws that have glue on the threads, can be heated with a soldering iron for a few minutes, it makes the glue liquid again and easy to remove the screw. Thanks for another interesting video :)

[@jothain]

If you don't get good grip, there's very simple answer. Your tool quality is garbage.

[@renepedersen7141]

@@jothain Maybe somebody else messed up the screw :)

[@Queso305]

Why not put some grease on the springs in the hinges so they don't rust again?

[@elektron2kim666]

I miss my 0 cost Toshiba. It was a bit rushed thinking to throw it away.

[@retromobs6018]

If you want to rebuild the battery. You can use the 18650 li-ion cells. I was able to fit in 6 21700 5000mah cells in there with a bit of shaving. Now my satellite pro 4280 lasts forever haha

[@JenniferinIllinois]

I won't lie, seeing that shot of all the laptop parts scared me a bit. 😉

[@holleholl3057]

I hope you and your family are up well again - just or even better as your Toshiba Laptop is :)

[@RetroSpector78]

Thx … I’m back at work but we were all pretty sick for about a week. Lots of people getting infected here now, luckily none that I know with serious issues. Stay safe and healthy !

[@nickwallette6201]

@@RetroSpector78 Omicron is coming for us all. There are only those that have had it, and those that haven’t had it yet.

[@windestruct]

How to turn the fan back on? I don't mind the noise. I just want the processor to not die.

[@americo_san]

Top-notch work. Loved it!

[@outofrange1982]

Really lovely project and machine. But looking at 8:46: It seems like the electrolytics are already leaking too (maybe it's only dust, but the PCB above the IR diodes looks kind of bad)

[@rrafal]

Great job, i have some toshiba like yours but since their display are corrupted like on yours im not touching them atm. Bought a compapq lte, and man thats the quality, perfect screen, decent plastics. Also bought a dell latitude with p ii cpu, decent apswell. I needed to glue the lid couse it sptaprted to cenach near hinges, but put that aside eveŕything works file, even the battery.

[@aaroncheah2088]

I'm currently doing the same restoration for an old Compaq Presario M2000 found in the dumpster.

[@aitorius]

Hello! I have the same laptop but I want to know if the BIOS battery have an alternative replacement, I mean, it's impossible to me to find the 7.2v / 40mAh and 2.4v / 20mAh, so could another battery work with approximate values? And wich values? Or we have to build the battery with parts? (sigh). I wonder if the battery can be rebuilt, because 10.8v using 18650 batteries its... complicated? 3 batteries (x3.7v) gives 11.1v, can that be a problem, or will it be enough to make it work?

[@pacochales9507]

Magnifique vidéo, mille mercis !

[@Madixe]

I have a S300CDT and the fan start spinning only when the cpu is too hot

[@Trylen]

was looking at the like count.. "386" part of me didn't want to change that.. but now I'm a co-processor, heh

[@communalnoodle1356]

I would have been tempted to arrange one of the TFT panels to put instead while it's apart.

[@maxtornogood]

I really dig the look of these retro Toshibas! Hope you & the family are feeling better 🙂

[@jjohnson71958]

try 3d printing the external palm rest & bottom cover and all of the other plastic cosmetic pieces with better plastic

[@mwbro123]

i owned one back in the day....wow memories

[@canadianman000]

Your driver isnt a standard phillips. It does not have a filed flat tip. Thats your problem. The point bottomed out in the screw before the flutes were fully engaged.

[@SimonQuigley]

They always put random spare screws in there

[@AlejandroRodolfoMendez]

I hope you and your family get well soon

[@RetroSpector78]

Thx ... we're all feeling a lot better now.

[@Breakfast_of_Champions]

Toshiba? Have to be JIS screws then. Philips head will chew through them.😉

[@RetroSpector78]

If you look at the screws you can clearly see that they are Philips. I know JIS is from Japan and so is Toshiba, but Toshiba doesn’t use JIS on laptops. JIS is primarily used in motors / motorcycles / machinery. Never seen a laptop or other electronics device with small JIS screws.

[@Ramdileo_sys]

@@RetroSpector78 sorry for the offtopic, just gathering some information here. I hope you are better. All the best to you and your loved ones. 👍 Vaccinated with 2 doses??? which brand??? they told you which strain (variant) of the virus do you have??? @Fran Blanche also had covid a few weeks ago, fully vaccinated she was several days without smell or taste.

[@DaveM245]

@@RetroSpector78 Quick Google search, JIS screws are found on everything made in Japan. JIS, or Japanese Industry Standard screws are just different enough in shape that Phillips drivers will not fit well and slip/strip them. The difference is in the leading angle of the point of the driver. Phillips bits have a larger angle and therefore don't bottom out in the JIS screws, causing slippage. Phillips bits strip JIS screws. I looked in my collection of computer screws , especially the 6-32 because they are bigger and most are not marked but some are marked with a small dot, so JIS screws! Regards, Dave.

[@dosenfisch24]

@@RetroSpector78 Hi, I had more than 10 of these old Toshiba notebooks from the Pentium and Pentium MMX era, ranging from Libretto 70, different Satellite Pro to the Tecra 500 and 700 series. Most of them had a least one or two screws, that were hard to remove with a normal Phillips head screwdriver. After getting an ifixedit set, I found out that the JIS bits work way better on the old Toshiba notebooks. In hindsight, I could have realized it even earlier, becaus older devices like a T1600 and T5200 uses correctly marked screws with a dot.

[@michaelwood9866]

I had one many years ago! I now have a compaq armada 1530dm pentium 1missing the cd drive tho...finding that will be fun.

[@lauram5905]

I have a set of screwdrivers from 2004 that claim to be Chrome Vanadium, but have a surface treatment on them that almost looks and feels like carbon, and I’ve found that with screws where the material is more likely to strip or chowder, they’ve been great at breaking the threadlock and extracting them. I’m writing the manufacturer now to see if there’s anything special about them so I can pass it on, but they’ve been a worthwhile tool for various teardowns I’ve done

[@HuntersMoon78]

Toshiba 4000CDS with 4000 screws

[@lukedavis436]

Oddly enough i own this exact model, and only recently got mine working

[@airfixer9461]

Nice repair build...i love it 🙂

[@jeremiefaucher-goulet3365]

Detailed screw organizing scheme ;) I don't know if it was to address my question from the previous video, but that's not what I was wondering. My personal issue with screws is not about how to organize them or identifying their different size. It's knowing where each size go back to ;) I'm always afraid of using the wrong one and damaging the threads on the receiving side, or causing long screw damages. As for the extra screws at the end, wouldn't it be nice to store them back where they used to belong, even if they aren't useful anymore? My philosophy is to keep them in the device as potential spares, or just in case they ever become useful again in the future (let's say you were to 3D print the broken plastic parts). Maybe you just have a different philosophy about it ;) Otherwise, excellent video. Loved it. Very complex assembly, I'm betting the workers at the factory hated that laptop, and assembly was costly for Toshiba. Is every feature on the laptop still functional? By that I mean, CD drive, diskettes, speakers, etc... Except of course the black lines on the LCD panel.

[@TheErador]

Store in an anatomy of parts is my goto method. Lay them out on the table in roughly the same shape as when they were in the unit

[@andheeid]

7:36 imho best technique is use a files or small saw make the shape to works with flat head screw driver

[@athemalive]

I have similar laptop, it's Toshiba Sattelite 210CS, but to find the EDO-RAM for this mashine is really pain in the ass. Mainly is because i'm based on Europe, and everything is from USA.

[@SimonSideburns]

My wife's first laptop is a Toshiba Satellite 220CDS. I upgraded the HDD to a larger capacity (I seem to recall the original was only 1Gb so I think I put in a 20Gb one) and upgraded the ram with a 128Mb card. There's a funny story there in that the company that I bought the RAM from sent us the wrong part, and then refunded us AND sent the correct part. My usual honest self would have contacted them about it, but after they'd dicked us about by getting us to send them back the incorrect part at our expense, I just left it at that. I guess the accounts department only meant to refund us the cost of our expenses in sending the other part back, but who knows. This was in the early 2000s, so I expect the RAM for these is pretty rare these days.

[@Alex4SiliconValley]

I have an old Toshiba with AMD K6 II 500. I purchased at a flea market for $5. I replaced the hard drive with HGST 80gb. Added more m Memory and I had to replace the CDROM drive which stopped working. It works great now. Better than NEW because of the faster hard-drive and more ram.

[@HuntersMoon78]

Flathead screwdriver would have got the screw out.

[@jothain]

I have 470cdt and it's one of the best retro laptops I've ever seen. Decent display, Soundblaster compatible etc.

[@darksideXLable]

Why not just solder another screw on top of the one there if its that far gone ?

[@Mrshoujo]

I have the Toshiba 400CDX. Possibly related.

[@robertoler3795]

well done

[@O.Shawabkeh]

You might like checking eBay for a listing of a new IBM PC 5150. (that was hell of a job with the laptop)

[@slabo8171]

Dismantling everything back at 11:30 made my day, as I remembered your comment on the disassembly video, which was "Hope the assembly process will go well and I don't forget the component that needs to be put in in step 3 when I'm at step 78 :)". Fortunately for you, your prediction on steps distance has been exaggerated. I'm waiting for a video with a victory over that darn heatsink screw. You cannot let it prevail! Anyway, both teardown and rebuilding were satisfying. I prefer lots of screws over some glue.

[@nickwallette6201]

Man, if I had a dime for every time I forgot step 3. 😞

[@razorback20]

As a certain other youtuber, who specializes in car repairs, often says: 'I love my job so much, I do it twice' :p

[@gamescomputer5464]

I have ingested cesium 137 I'm a glowing blue lightbulb now hihi it's been 1 year since ingestion

[@infango]

MACRO shoper identified ;p

Toooxiibha!!!!

[@Astinsan]

P2 ver?

[@tekkyun]

good!!!

[@dykodesigns]

That hinge mechanism is pretty complicated looking, but I kind of admire the engineering ingenuity of it.

[@thesmokingcap]

I love my 4015CDT, I've made it my ultimate MS-DOS gaming machine. Those CDS displays are not great haha. But still cool to see another one saved

[@rlgrlg-oh6cc]

When a Philips screw is that far gone, sometimes a small flat blade screwdriver can grab it enough to turn. You may need to tap it in lightly with a small hammer to get it seated into the screw head before trying to turn it. Or at least push down hard when trying to turn it.

[@xredhead7135x]

You might have some better luck with a torx screwdriver (with or without the rubber band) on that troublesome, stripped screw head.

[@RetroSpector78]

Tried it also, different rubber bands, different bits ... but couldn't get it out.

[@kevinwetsch5209]

Laptops are my least favorite thing to take apart. I find it as frustrating as trying to take a dash out of a car. I'll take a desktop or Tower any day. 😆

[@LazyBunnyKiera]

Yeah once a screw gets t that point, your only choices are to use a drill or a dremel. When using a dremel in such a small spot, you would use a thin diamond tip. Like the very thin long diamond tip, not a cutting disk, and you would use the thin diamond tip to cut flat channels into it that you could use with a flat head screw driver. It's difficult and annoying work, so i don't blame you for not wanting to if you don't have to. I would have done it, but that's more because i've done it before so i know what to do. And i'd want to replace the thermal paste and what ever.

[@razorback20]

Maybe first trying to hammer an allen or torx key into the hole and pray? Then it it fails, resort to more destructive methods.

[@LazyBunnyKiera]

@@razorback20 That sounds horrible, but you could probably crudely dremel in a torx bit. Turning it into a flat head or even just making new phillips channels using the diamond tip(not as expensive as people think) is pretty quick and easy. Takes me about 5-10 minutes per screw depending on where it's at.

[@razorback20]

@@LazyBunnyKiera True, I'm resorting to cruelty, but it's because: 1. I don't own a Dremel (Shame, I know) 2. I consider this screw is FUBAR'ed anyway. And hardly accessible. So, I have no problem about finishing it for good when extracting it, and then replacing it with a fresh one.

[@DavidMarvin]

Horrible screen is putting it lightly. I used this machine for a few years with a usb ethernet jack.

[@John-jc3ty]

you wouldnt have to rebuild it if you didnt tore it down first -.-

[@NMRotar]

Covid 19? Common man wtf is that...

[@7302ab]

Built like tanks but not that amazing at the time too heavy

[@wesleyoliveira6570]

UwU

[@garyr7027]

If you didn't talk slower than a snail crawls and digressed over needless information, you could have reduced this video down to 10 minutes... I definitely lost interest here.

[@RetroSpector78]

KZbin has a speed button somewhere. Some people like my content at 1.5x or 2x. That might bring it down to 10mins

[@Asterism_Desmos]

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