Review of a Bluetooth Receiver that can be built-in to your NuTone Intercom Master Station

[@northsideservicecompany3567]

Many have asked for something like this built-in Bluetooth Receiver - While this prototype needs a little bit of work to get it just right - It might just be what everyone has been askling for. Go to our Community Page : www.youtube.com/@northsideservicecompany3567/community and vote for the amount that you think would be fair for this device - Chris

[@litzdog911]

Very cool! I've been thinking of doing this on our IM3303. Would love to see a video showing how with a parts list.

[@northsideservicecompany3567]

Hi Jim: This is not a "home-brew" item, it may become a regular product made by an electronic manufacturer - Some detail about it need to be addressed - Time will tell about its future - Chris

[@stephenkruft2213]

Great information, simple enough for me to follow!

[@northsideservicecompany3567]

HI stephen: Simple is always good - Chris

[@NoThanks-vn7bt]

I'd be interested. In my previous car I had a factory radio with an aftermarket BT installed (completely) inside the stereo case (by 1FactoryRadio). A nice feature; you could manually turn on the BT with a 1/8" push button installed into the face of the radio. When you push the button, it interrupts the (presumably antenna) signal completely, and plays the BT device. I would prefer a system like that rather than using the "BT puck - stereo plug - mono rca - Phono leve input" that I currently use. My master unit only has the exterior phono plug (I believe), and I'm not sure that the phono input really "wants" the type of signal coming from the BT device. If there would be a way to interrupt a signal, it would be like giving my system a secondary input, but only if it could be done without harming the actual radio reception (which we use all the time).

[@northsideservicecompany3567]

Hi No Thanks: You didn;t mention what type or model of Intercom you have. Most all NuTone Intercoms made since the mid 1970's have 2 auxillary inputs - which can be selected with the Input Selector Swicth - None of the 'interrupt' the Radio, The Radio isn;t actually active when a different input is used - Chris

[@NoThanks-vn7bt]

​@@northsideservicecompany3567 its an older 2067/2068 unit. Fortunately the phono input on the bottom seems to not have any issues just using it as a generic input from my phone. Cable just lays on the counter when not in use. *edit* I had you service it a couple years ago, it is still in excellent condition. I've also fully disassembled and cleaned all the remote stations too. Not a hint of scratchiness with volume controls.

[@northsideservicecompany3567]

@@NoThanks-vn7bt Well done with cleaning the Controls in the Remote Stations, it does make all the difference. Adding the built-in Bluetooth to your 2067 / 2068 would be tricky. The Low-Voltage Transformer is built into the Chassis of the Master Station and the Wall-Housing is very small and fully encloused, so find space for the Bluetooth equipment woul dbe difficult - Chris

[@kurtandsamanthameyer8693]

We’d like to do this when we send our unit in

[@northsideservicecompany3567]

HiJurt: This is not a product that ready (yet) to be sold. It requires some refinements to solve the sound level issue (in my opinion) Keep looking for an update Video when the next version is sent to us - Chris

[@strudeldoodlez1144]

what transformer goes for the im-2003? thanks

[@northsideservicecompany3567]

Hi strudeldoodlez: The NuTone IM2003 System uses a NuTone 105T low-Volatge Transformer, which is a 16 Volt AC Transformer rated at 15 Watts (VA) - Chris

[@locus-801]

@@northsideservicecompany3567would you be able to somehow connect transformer to an outlet? I need to connect on a 2003 too.

[@northsideservicecompany3567]

You could buy a Plug-in Low-voltage Transformer of exactly the same rating as a NuTone 105T - Chris@@locus-801

[@locus-801]

@@northsideservicecompany3567 where can I get one?

[@locus-801]

@@northsideservicecompany3567 can the I’m-2003 power supply board go into the 3003 for replacement?

[@douglasosborn3378]

Not related to this video… Need your help again. I have a plunger that pulls in instead of strike out. I’ve moved the plunger position from position 3 to 4 and then to 1. The issue follows the plunger. What is making this plunger act differently. Baffled, Doug

[@douglasosborn3378]

Know why now… The solid iron rod inside the outer brass tube had slid forward to the end. I’m not sure if my description makes any sense. The plunger is a brass tube with the iron rod inside. Well anyway, I know what the problem is now. Thanks again the previous assistance.

[@northsideservicecompany3567]

Hi douglas: Glad you figured it out - Chris

[@douglasosborn3378]

Chris, thanks again. I was able to get the steel core out of the plunger. Since the core was at the end of the plunger, I was able to get needle-nose pliers on it… just barely… and gently work it out. Looks like someone took a piece of steel rod, different from the original, wrapped it with sand paper and crammed back into the brass. The original steel core probably hit the floor and was swept up decades ago. The chime tubes are looking good after hours of polishing, and polishing, and polishing. Now, I’m onto cords and tips. The cords on the chimes, well… I think the plungers will two of the tubes. Watched your videos on re-cording chimes. 👍 I thought the tips were wood. They were wore done to the end of the plungers so it was hard to tell. I carefully drilled them out. Well, they’re not wood, or plastic… leather, maybe 🤷🏼‍♂️. I don’t know where I’d source replacements. I’m going with wood. 1/4” dowel is slightly too big but I spun one in my drill and get a nice firm fit. Thanks for your video on plunger tips. I am so glad you spend the time and effort putting your channel together. You are basically the only source on the subject. Keep well and cheers, Doug