The PROPER Way To Clean Game Cartridges

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[@rbledsaw3]

I'm a Senior Engineer, I hope you don't mind me fact-checking you on a few misconceptions. 2:00 Umm.. Rubbing Alcohol is a mixture of Isopropyl alcohol and purified water.... Not glycerin. I think you're confusing it with hand sanitizer, which has glycerin in it. 4:10 Also, "wet metal" and electricity are not an issue when using a non-polar chemical like Isopropyl alcohol. You're confusing wet with polar molecules like water. Let me clarify, water that has impurities in it, like regular tap or drinking water. Distilled water does not conduct electricity. There's no need to let something cleaned with alcohol dry for 24 hours. Alcohol has a high volatility, meaning it evaporates really fast. You're just wasting time. 10:15 Using an eraser is a bad idea for cleaning any PCB (game cartridges included). There are at least two things that may go wrong with your approach: Electrostatic discharge (ESD) issues Mechanical stress Anytime you rub two objects against each other you have the chance of generating static electric charges on them. This phenomenon is called triboelectric effect. A problem with ESD is that it may not kill your chips right-away (many chips today have protection circuitry that will handle a small amount of ESD), but it may degrade the performance of your devices (e.g. leakage currents or offset voltages may become permanently worse because of microscopic damages inside the semiconductor device). Therefore a game, may still work, but with intermittent failures or glitches. Whether your approach will work consistently in this respect will depend, besides sheer luck, on many parameters like ambient humidity, eraser and PCB materials, operator grounding, etc. Mechanical stress is maybe a lesser concern, but it should be taken into account: if the eraser is hard, if you press too much while erasing, if the PCB tracks or pads are too thin, you may risk detaching one of these latter from the PCB and this will ruin your day most likely (repairing a multilayer PCB is not easy, is often expensive and sometimes is not even possible). The BEST thing to use to clean electrical contacts and pins is a chemical specifically made for that. WD-40 has an Electronic Contact Cleaner that's fantastic: wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner/

[@slytechgaming]

+Robert Bledsaw III So what you are saying is that the eraser is a bad idea?

[@rbledsaw3]

Yes. It has the potential to do more harm than good. Especially in the long run.

[@PPablinho]

+Robert Bledsaw III If the eraser is a bad idea, there's other option? You said contact cleaner, it's not the same as Isopropyl alcohol?

[@rbledsaw3]

Pedro Pablo Pastene According to WD-40's MSDS sheet on its Contact Cleaner, it is 20-30% n-Hexane, 10-20% Isopropyl Alcohol, and 40-60% 1,1 Difluoroethane. They only give ranges of percentages because the exact percentage is a trade secret.

[@PPablinho]

So, the best way to clean the contacts is with contact cleaner, and not with isopropyl alcohol or anything else??

[@TheDeltaspirit]

When I heard you say wait 24 hours after cleaning with 99 iso I almost fell out of my chair. That shit dissipates almost instantly, a couple minutes and you're good to go.

[@ReviewTechUSA]

Finally! A video showing you the correct way to clean your old school game cartridges. Make sure your shirt is off while watching this to get the full experience!

[@rowanhunter1971]

Ill Rub My Belly And Slap My Face For Full Pleasure

[@ReviewTechUSA]

Rowan Woodhead Sounds like I got plans for the weekend!

[@ReviewTechUSA]

***** Vinnie Paz and Troy Ave.

[@DeathsCrowbar]

I actually use both the erasers for oxidation and isotropic alcohol as I find the alcohol makes it easier to remove any rubber"film". Also I dont recommend new 72 pin connectors but rather to fix old one as the new ones seem to wear out faster than one you fix, at least for me. But Im glad you made this video.

[@The513Warning]

ReviewTechUSA But if I take my shirt off, my chest and stomach hair might get in the cartridge and that won't be any good, Rich.

[@ReviewTechUSA]

the link for the game bits is in the description now....and it's here: www.amazon.com/Security-Screwdriver-Female-3-8mm-4-5mm/dp/B00GT15JPU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1392949388&sr=8-9&keywords=game+bit

[@emerybryant]

thank you very much sir. you are awesome and ive always heard to use rubbing alcohol....so ill always keep this in mind :D

[@ReviewTechUSA]

emerybryant you're welcome...

[@NinjaNezumi]

Rich, I've cleaned a few systems from soda pop before with just distilled water :D you don't even need to use windex for that and it's a bit safer. Just used a damp paper towel with the distilled water, took a while but no film residue. I did learn something with the video, though, and definitely will use this process if I ever go through my games to clean them out!

[@callumgray8959]

This is really interesting. Can you do a video for GB/GBC/GBA games as well? :)

[@StarGazerTom1991]

I personally use vodka. Just regular old drinking vodka. I find its one of the best things to use, but that could just be personal preference.

[@eatinginternet8690]

Are you serious? 24 hours? Alcohol, especially isopropyl alcohol, evaporated INCREDIBLY quickly. There shouldn't be ANY moisture with the alcohol after at most an hour under room temperature.

[@RichardCookerly]

Yeah I wait about 15 mins. Dries super fast.

[@Mishkobt]

Was about to comment the same thing. Especially 99% alcohol dries super fast

[@acclaim200hp]

I've been using isopropyl alcohol without any issue and everything still works .

[@gamenerd009]

Where did you get your info on alcohol?. It drys almost instantly after applied and sure doesn't need 4 hours. I've cleaned and fixed electronics for years and it confuses me where you get your logic

[@jeanious2009]

gamenerd009 99% isopropyl alcohol dries up within three seconds (depending on how saturated the surface is).

[@Valchrist1313]

gamenerd009 Yeah, I laughed too when he said it was mixed with glycerine while showing a 99% concentration alcohol. I assume he was basing that off the 60% solutions.

[@stungunnotapplicable1953]

Laptop repair tech here. I can confirm that isopropyl alcohol does evaporate usually within seconds of application. We use it all the time when cleaning old thermal paste off CPU packages, and pre-saturated disposable wipes with isopropyl are in fact sent with every motherboard ordered for in warranty repairs (for most vendors), for the express purpose of wiping off the old paste. It's pretty much entirely harmless and can clean up just about anything nasty. However, the alcohol dries so fast that once you open the packages for the wipes, you have to either use them immediately or find some way to reseal the packages if you want to get multiple uses out of them (often times, it only takes a small amount of the wipe's surface area to clean off a heat sink, and these things are very useful to have extras on hand).

[@jellyboy123]

put them in soapy water then dry them with a chainsaw. top tip- to line the pins stamp on the cart and throw against the wall. Job done.

[@shock44SquirrelyShock]

This is great to know. Thank you good sir. I have heard that blowing on the cartridge and using alcohol was a bad idea. However, the guy in the video DID NOT explain how to clean the cartridges after saying that. I didn't understand why he wouldn't tell you how to actually clean it if he tells you that the typical way of cleaning it doesn't work. I'm glad you made this video.

[@ironlunatic1]

I've used rubbing alcohol for years and my games still work fine.

[@KabukeeJo]

When using an eraser, use a soft eraser & light pressure because using hard abrasive erasers or a lot of pressure can wear off the gold plating on the carts contact connector, resulting in more oxidation. Always clean with caution.

[@GroovinFunk]

***** The magic erasers are too abrasive. Do no use them on the pins!

[@derekgreen850]

GroovinFunk too abrasive? they are 1000 grit, that's the softest grit available i'm fairly sure

[@Eric_Malkav]

It's a good idea not to touch the board with bare hands. Oils from your skin can damage electronics slowly over time and you run the risk of shorting out the board with static.

[@Fishwithadeagle]

Actually rubbing alcohol is 91-99 percent denatured isopropyll alcohol and the rest is water, not glycerin. Glycerin would stabilize the alcohol and prevent it from evaporating like it should. Anyways, alcohol is fine.

[@chestercopperpot9459]

I stopped watching after I heard "I know it all" followed by "wait 24 hours for "alcohol" to dry". Rubbing alcohol completely evaporates in almost seconds. Of course I usually give it a few mins if I plan to test it but HOURS? Please. smh

[@RyanMartinez]

Rubbing alcohol does evaporate, but in lower percentages it leaves behind its water solute. This is what needs to be dried.

[@Helladamnleet]

Oh, really, because we use 71% iso in a medical parts factory to clean our work cells and any cpap masks with smudges and it dries up in about 30 seconds.

[@RyanMartinez]

The alcohol itself evaporates quickly, no doubt. But the water may stay behind in some lower percentages. Maybe not so much in high percentages like 70 to 90. I do notice 90% evaporates completely, but 50% leaves some water behind that you do have to wipe away. Lower percentages also leaves more water. I'm not trying to argue, just sharing my experience with different percentages. Electronics cleaning alcohol does evaporate completely. I'm not trying to say it doesn't. I've used it, I know. I'm a system builder.

[@flatshade]

The Rubber method looks good for some more serious corrosions. I'd stick with Isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips. High quality Isopropyl evaporates extremely fast and without damaging residues.

[@ReviewTechUSA]

I have that...and it's nowhere near as good at getting rid of oxidation as a rubber eraser. I promise you.

[@flatshade]

ReviewTechUSA Well, I'll definitely try that on some rusty old Famicom cartridges lying around here. Thanks and keep up the good work.

[@GroovinFunk]

***** Magic eraser is too abrasive for pins. You've cleaned 30 games? Cute.

[@derekgreen850]

GroovinFunk care to be more of a douchebag?

[@charvelgtrs]

White Plastic Erasers are much softer than Pink ones.

[@orlandotijerina2398]

Why do you make a 24 minute video for something this simple?

[@MultiTechnicss]

+Orlando Tijerina I agree

[@thegr8rambino]

+Orlando Tijerina maybe he jsut likes to talk alot, idk lol

[@timespark]

Orlando Tijerina Probably for ad revenue?

[@Soldier561]

your hands look like boxing gloves.

[@elmentado9231]

YO.... LOL 😂 💀

[@MrKDilkington0]

10 minutes is ample time for alcohol to dry.

[@catstermarioholoic4092]

No 10 days

[@devincrave7067]

I am going to get my NES tomorrow and all the games and clean the crap out of them. I have not played it in so long. I still have everything to it and use to play the games every once in a while to throw back in my mind. Thank you for this

[@subzero8679]

Rubbing Alcohol and Windex both work perfectly fine. I've used both for over 25 years and all of my games are clean and they work great. I've NEVER ruined a game with either one. Rubbing Alcohol 70% or higher is the best. You wipe with the alcohol or windex and then wipe dry with another Q-tip. It's as simple as that, unless the games are really filthy, in which case they need to be opened up and cleaned further. No special brass cleaner or pin connector cleaner is needed.

[@BigTinkler]

I'm no chemist, but isopropyl alcohol does not contain glycerin... hand sanitizers such as Purell contain glycerin. General rubbing alcohol is usually denatured ethanol or isopropyl alcohol and water. Essentially by saying don't use rubbing alcohol, you should be strictly against denatured alcohol as well. If you have no clue what you are talking about, please don't hand out shitty advice which isn't true. Cartridges are quite resilient and as long as you don't soak them in liquid or leave them outside, you can clean them with anything.

[@bio0link]

Welcome to riches KZbin channel says one thing its completely wrong says every one else is wrong his content sucks, and he likes to poison the well and cause panic.

[@gillianseed4419]

Indeed, in addition using an eraser is no different than using a polishing sandpaper. This guy is a quack.

[@manictiger]

***** I'd try microfiber cloth, first (same stuff I use on my Oakleys). If that fails, the eraser might be the way to go. The contacts were clean-- can't deny that.

[@slade307]

Gillian Seed I've used Hipolymer erasers with no problems on cartridges. There's less crap to clean off. They seem to be softer. Got my cleaning advice from here - www.retrofixes.com/2013/07/cleaning-game-cartridges.html

[@giovannyalpizar5351]

The thumbnail had Ghouls ‘n’ Ghosts. I’m truly blessed by an amazing KZbinr.

[@dimitriusmedina6492]

I'm very glad you made this video because its always nice to learn something new especially when it saves you in the long run. Thanks Rich

[@Gigidag77]

Thanks man, your tutorial rescued my 2 PS2 memory cards which didn't work anymore before !

[@chrisMengland]

i used rubbing alcohol with a q-tip then used another q-tip to dry it. Did this to all my cartridges over 20 years ago and they all still work fine til this day.

[@dutchmcqueen5765]

This is bullshit. Just use a cue tip and some rubbing alcohol. I have even used nail polish remover.

[@MoonduSSSt]

I feel guilty now... I worked at one of those retro game shops for a few months last year, and we totally cleaned cartridges the wrong way. Granted, I didn't know better, and that was the way we were instructed to do it, but still. :(

[@Bendarr2]

Interesting method. Ironically I used to use the same method (rubber eraser) to clean the pickups on my old Aurora AFX HO scale slot cars. Worked like a charm.

[@kaoko6835]

I actually like the thought of all that dna in there. It heightens the sense of nostalgia for me.

[@ShadowX012]

It's funny how many pins old games had, yet 3DS blows them away in every regard with ~10 pins...

[@hustle_simmons]

I would hope so considering 3DS technology came out 28 years after the famicom..

[@ShadowX012]

It's something of a tech fetish, hard to explain lol. I know how and why, but sometimes I step back and look at things, and it's just wow. We've come so far.

[@degtyarev708]

ShadowX012 128gb microSD cards... :)

[@Voxel8or]

ShadowX012 And then a "next gen" game comes out on a 10 year old game engine. (Titanfall)

[@EvilWiffles]

Voxel8or Doesn't Titanfall run off Source? That's my second favorite engine right next to UE2.5. Don't like the futuristic style of Titanfall but if I was into those type of games, I'd be fine with it running off Source because it's pretty stable.

[@scoobytim129]

I'm gonna agree with you on the pure 99.9% isopropyl alcohol as it is a degreaseant and is also used for lens and head cleaning and is great for removing marks left by old stickers. I used to work at Marconi making circuit boards and they would dip boards in isopropyl to remove flux so it won't matter if you spill it on electronics either.

[@BlueIcesevensix]

Hey Rich, your way is the only way I clean my game cartridges. Thank you for making this video!!!

[@MiamiZombie2012]

You could also apply a layer of dielectric grease to prevent future oxidation. It's used on car electrical connections to prevent them rusting.

[@taxxxevasion]

Welcome to RetroTechUSA lol. I am enjoying all of your retro videos a lot.

[@tron3entertainment]

Rich, I knew of the eraser method years ago. However, it should be done sparingly and lightly as not to eventually rub off the micro thin gold plating - which can and has happened. Then you are left with silver metal which will corrode faster. Gold does not corrode easily, if at all. Find a softer eraser such as a white artist eraser. Otherwise you are "rubbing out" your Genesis cartridges like Gangster Town.

[@TheGameBench]

I've never cared for the eraser method. You might not see it, but it does leave a residue. I agree with you for the most part but I use a specialized polish to clean the pins, pure ISO to clean off the polish, and anti static wipes to clean off the ISO. The eraser is also only good for lightweight stuff. I doubt you've seen my cleaning videos. Then again, they have about three views.

[@BladeBlur]

Let me ask you a different question. My game works fine, BUT it has a lot of glitches going on. In my copy of gargoyles quest II my game has an issue with the horizontal and vertical scrolling as every time it has to scroll to the left or right, there is a line that pops up to the direction I go. I.E I jump up, a white line shows up on the topmost part of the screen. Do cleaning my cartridge going to work or is it something with my system?

[@cinemastrength]

I know nothing about retro gaming, but I can tell you that specialty bit's, of any sort really, costing 10 buck for 2 of them and they are good quality, is amazing

[@InfDogRag]

I usually don't respond to stuff, but I just had to this time. With all due respect, and you seem like a cool dude, BUT you couldn't;t be more wrong. FYI ALL PCB manufacturers use 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean their boards once done. Any professional electronics restoration/repair tech will tell you 99% isopropyl alcohol does not leave a residue, and is the absolute cleanest and sanitary way to remove anything from electronic parts. Furthermore it evaporates 100% dry in seconds. Period, End of discussion there. You are correct, erasers are a great way. Magic Eraser, Also 1000 grit sand paper (which is basically what a Magic Eraser is). BUT where you mess up is, both those things leaves microscopic powders on the pins. Sorry but a paper towel doesn't remove this. Matter fact, that last wipe with the paper towel just causes more grit that you can not see from the eraser and what it cleaned to stick via static electric to the pins from the wipe of the towel. You are to ALWAYS follow your erasing or sand papering with a q tip and 99% isopropyl alcohol to remove any last final bits of unseen grit after cleaning. When it evaporates (seconds) then it is totally sanitary to a hospital level grade of sterol. I agree, a QTip and 99% isopropyl alcohol alone by itself is not always the best way. BUT you need to always end your cleaning with it if you use a multiple step process of cleaning. Rubbing alcohol now is NOT 995 isopropyl alcohol, they are two different things. Standard Rubbing alcohol for a girls nails is indeed BAD to use. Sorry - but you've just been massively misinformed and you speak it like its the truth and you're god or something, and its just not true. Windex would be the absolute worse thing to use. Windex is nasty and has many ingredients in it and is just a bad way to do anything. I don't even clean my windows with Windex. 99% isopropyl alcohol is what the professional techs been using for years, its what you use to also clean Tape Heads and tape heads can not have even microscopic bits of anything or any residue at all on it. This is why you are instructed to ONLY use 99% isopropyl alcohol on them. It also does not damage anything. It is the purest form of any cleaner that there is. This is why its used by the manufacturers themselves. Sadly, your method is putting lots of eraser grit (that you can't see) in your consoles. lol Wow.

[@railfanallen]

Never knew you could clean cartridges with an eraser. That's good to know when I need to clean my N64 games. Thanks.

[@niXtreme]

Thanks Rich! This is the best video iv'e seen of cart cleaning. You saved some of my games!

[@Animated__Freak]

thank you for this video. I did it to all my Neo Geo Pocket games that where having problem with randomly running off or not being detected by the system at all and going into the pocket menu instead. Now they all work perfectly!

[@mediaglitch]

Thanks for the tips Ill be putting this in effect

[@Danmandingo]

Ohhhh GOD this brings back SO many nostalgic memories... Basically ANYONE who is old enough to have owned an NES system back in the day, knows the absolute HORRORS of practically blowing your LUNGS out, thinking that was the only way to make those darned cartridges work. @________@

[@bobbybob188]

I recently purchased a SNES and about seven games for the first time. After watching this I looked inside my Chrono Trigger cart and almost threw up. Needless to say my game bit should arrive later this week. Thanks for this video!

[@locust76]

I find it kind of amazing that, dirt aside, there are scratches on the contacts for that Monopoly game because people *actually* played it :D

[@catstermarioholoic4092]

I got a zelda 1 cartridge for nes the other day from some lady's yard sale. It was in immaculate condition with all the gold and beautiful lable. I had to instantly get a clear protective sleeve for it.

[@sonicpsycho13]

For the hardware (e.g. screws), I recommend placing everything in a bowl, tupperware, egg carton, etc, so they don't roll off the table and get lost.

[@bo44wright]

This video helped make my NES play like brand new

[@Mr.Everything]

Since I got into collecting retro stuff (although the only cartridge stuff I have right now is N64) I tend to give everything a 409 bath to remove germs and dirt, controllers, the console, the cartridge casing/dvd cases because it seems everything always has brown crusty garbage on it. I assume people either wipe their snot on everything gaming or their dip chaw the spat out splattered on it. However I had some old Radioshack alcohol electronic contact pen and cleaned my cartridges with it but I only have 12 and they worked fine but I'll remember this for future games. Aside from collecting retro stuff I'm trying to get everything current brand new since it seems very few people take care of stuff anymore and it's always either filthy or non mint, I can own things for years and they pretty much look like they never left the packaging.

[@andyinsames]

Corrections: 1. Rubbing alcohol (aka isopropyl alcohol) is just a general term for a denatured alcohol solution of 70 to 99 percent isopropanol or ethanol and other inactive ingredients. Solutions sold as isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol seldom contain any inactive ingredients besides water. You can get isopropyl alcohol with glycerin, but it's uncommon and is usually conspicuously labeled. Alcohol is not damaging to electronics in any way, shape, or form. In fact alcohol is a great way to clean PCBs and components. It doesn't do a very good job of cleaning contacts, but it doesn't leave a residue and certainly won't harm your games. 2. Windex contains ammonia which is corrosive. I doubt that using Windex on your contacts will cause any type of meaningful harm (as long as you rinse with alcohol or water). However it doesn't work much better than alcohol so I'd never use it. The fact that you say that alcohol is "HORRIBLE, HORRIBLE" for your games but Windex is okay in a pinch is an example of why you don't know what you are talking about. 3. Pink rubber erasers absolutely leave a residue on the contacts. That's why white art erasers are preferred. Also the white erasers are softer and less likely to catch one of the contacts and lift it off the board (although I think damaging the contacts with any eraser is unlikely). After cleaning with either type of eraser you should still follow up with alcohol to clean up any residue/particulate. 4. Where is your ESD protection? I never use any, but I don't purport to clean games the proper way. 5. Waiting four hours for isopropyl/denatured alcohol to dry is insane. Near 100% alcohol evaporates almost instantly. Even 70% evaporates in seconds. Your method of cleaning games isn't bad (except for not cleaning off the eraser residue), but there are other ways to clean a cartridge that are totally safe. As long as you're not using something that is super corrosive or abrasive you're fine. Personally, I use Brasso or similar metal polish and finish with isopropyl. Works great.

[@imalive4u169]

Actually erasers wear away at the copper pins. If the corrosion is really bad use a metal polish but for regular cleaning you should use cleaning alcohol which should be as close to 100% Isopropyl as possible. I do agree rubbing alcohol which contains 70% Isopropyl is bad the remaining 30% is water and water and metals like copper don't mix well. Also how you store your cartridges matter. You want to keep them dry with little to no moisture as possible. Like I said water and metals like copper don't do well together.

[@Slytzel]

"Back in the NES days people where blowing in these" What does this mean, I still blow in my Nintendo DS gameslot XD

[@AntagonistInPhoenix]

Then you need to stop.

[@JimmyTurner]

It means literately what he said ""Back in the NES days people where blowing in these"" I don't know how else to explain it.

[@theRealDonaldTrump666]

***** he cant stop . he wont stop . he dont know how to stop !

[@JimmyTurner]

***** Yeah because "blowing in" is a sexual term. If your'e going to joke make sure it's funny...... That joke was so bad I now have cancer.

[@barrelroll_poopoopeepee]

Lol i do that too

[@prodigy84bg]

I haven't seen the inside of a cartridge for approx 15 years now. I remember I once had a defective Famicom cartridge, which could hardly fit the cartridge slot, so I opened it and cut out a tiny bit of the PCB plastic on both sides of the pins with a knife, and it worked well after that.

[@xboxmarshall1]

worked great for me on my megadrive and snes.Thanks very much.

[@toshineon]

This is some great advice. I recently bought some good quality game bits because I installed a modchip in my GameCube, so I've already got that part down. I think I'm gonna spend some time to clean my N64 cartridges.

[@georgyorgy2]

I was looking for something like this. Thanks

[@matthewcollins7338]

you should be using a white art eraser not a pink one. but let's take it a step further and why not use contact cleaner lol.

[@NoChillMan]

Cool. Because of all of the videos you've done, I've decided to look for my N64 and Genesis (and gamecube). I found the consoles themselves, but all of my cords and games are MIA. I guess I'll have to go through all of the boxes under my stairs over spring break or something. I'm REALLY itching to play Majora's Mask.

[@CrayolaJohnson]

hey thanks a lot brother. I have used this method on some of my more resistant collectables. It got them all to first time every time condition.

[@zeeznutz5]

Lol that's how we did it when we were kids. I laughed so hard when I seen the eraser. We used pencils even with graphite on them. And the square tannish gold erasers left a filmy substance on the pins. Thanks for the memories

[@OfficialDanceJudge]

Thank you. Works like magic. Used Stadler Mars Plastic white eraser.

[@brandonboogers]

Thank you so much! I kept accidentally ruining my nes carts and I couldent figure out why but now I know what to do!

[@justinwinsor2103]

I am a new collector with my first n64 game and your advice is looking useful. Do you have any advice for oxidation and rust on the metal housing next to the pins?

[@RobbieStrike]

Thank you, I wish I knew about this years ago.

[@Ryan-xn3mt]

ReviewTech USA great video. Any suggestions on how to clean nes controllers

[@Heffy_Boi]

Hey Rich, just thought I'd say that your method worked like a charm. What would've taken me several attempts to boot Donkey Kong Country before cleaning now only only takes me one. I've never truly felt like cleaning _any_ game (whether it be a cartridge or a disc) with window cleaner or rubbing alcohol to ever be wise choice. I'm kinda surprised Adam Koralik didn't get the memo on that, considering how many cleaning videos he's put out over the years. Anyway, thanks again man, I'll be sure to put this method to good use in the future.

[@MrOnlythebesthere]

Thanks Rich you saved my game cartridges I was about to use rubbing alcohol to clean the pins.

[@DEVDEVDAROO2001]

I found my game bits on amazon for $4 bucks I can't wait to get them and clean my games ty for sharing this vid

[@DaveDoc1984]

Awesome video man. I saw some others and wasnt too sure if they were the best way to clean my carts but I did see one where a guy used a rubber for the contacts (TheDamoMonster). I will do this with my entire collection of Mega Drive and SNES carts ;) should take me till next year!

[@enjoy_s8390]

Fuck! I wrote a huge comment about how I do it then didn't post it. ANYWAYS back to what I was saying.... - I don't think rubbing alcohol leaves residue, - erasers do, - use Brasso (metal polisher) then alcohol to clean oxidization - and don't talk like everyone else's way is wrong when there are so many different techniques that seem easier and have equal or superior results. I haven't ever had to clean a game twice after using Brasso and rubbing alcohol to clean the residue. Maybe you don't either, but I find it hard to believe that an eraser leaves no residue considering when you take it to a piece of paper it leaves unremoveable steak marks. YES paper is not metal but I'm just trying to give an example. Ok so while I was writing this I decided to take an eraser to a dirt genesis cart I had and it work pretty good. it didn't leave noticeable residue (mind you I don't notice any when I use rubbing alcohol) although it wasn't as perfect as when I use Brasso. So I guess "different stokes for different folks" as you say.

[@armond120]

This was awesome to watch. I love the games better than the newer ones. I guess simply because I grew up in the Nintendo-NES era. Thanks man cause I have been having problems with some of my games. I did try the Q-tip 'trick' but later on the game still didn't work properly. Now I have the knowledge to do it right. THANKS MAN!!

[@gaming-zombie1392]

I never seen it done with eraser... Only Alcohol but I not clean them cuz I was a kid at that time lol... But when PS1 was out I use Alcohol to clean the CD or DVD... THANKS FOR SHARING WITH US!!!! & show us the right way to do it...

[@MattTheComputerGeek]

you should also use a anti-static wrist strap and an anti-static brush so you don't kill the board with static electricity.

[@alienvspredator444]

Thanks for showing this, I've been using q tips with little bit of Windex on it to clean it. I usually though it would cause future issue to the cartriges

[@awyeagames]

Brazilian mega drive cartridges use phillips screws, so it is a lot easier to open and clean a cart :) great vid man. I preffer pure Iso alcohool, but the eraser technique really is the best way to clean a cart.

[@gmantio97]

Nice job fella. Going to do this for my n64

[@retrogamer84]

thanks heaps for that ganna try it on a couple of games tomorrow i think, subbed

[@JAC3DG33K]

THANK YOU!!!!! I finally got my Killer Instinct Cart for the N64 to work. :) THANK YOU!!!!!

[@GeneralLee131]

Hell yeah man! The good ol eraser technique.

[@supersmallchibiwolf872]

This is like the stone age days of KZbin. I remember this video when It came put all those years ago good times. Cool video. ^_^

[@jouebien]

You used the same method LEGO said to clean their discontinued 9V and 12V train track back in the 90ies and early 2000nds. I've done this with large amounts of HO and N scale train track and it works very well. XD Possibly you may want to look at something like a Hornby track rubber? Although it could be a little too abrasive than needed for cartage cleaning. As much as a like methylated spirits and other chemicals as cleaners because they evaporate quickly and do a good job of cleaning plastic and metal they tend to make the the metal get dirty twice as fast and require cleaning more often.

[@AmasterAmaster]

Very interesting, can you do a video of you cleaning consoles as well? I would like to know how to clean those as well. (As in, do I use similar bits to screw the screws in consoles cases, and what other materials are necessary to clean the inner workings of said consoles.)

[@BloodyMastersword]

A video about cleaning controllers would be neat as well.

[@kaireng]

Thanks, this thing saved the backlights of my car :) The board there connects in a similar way I tried almost everything, nothing worked... Used the rubber and now my these work as intended, so this works for any connection of this type !

[@davidgerard5903]

well at least I know I was doing it wrong. I use to go and use rubbing alcohol, and I would go and put it on Q tip. cleaning off the pins several times and use the otherside of it to dry it off (with a different Q tip with each go). and then keep doing that till I couldn't seen anything being left on the Q tips... honestly I was only trying to make sure the pins were as clean as possible with what I had on hand, but this makes much more sence as to why most cartriges say not to use rubbing alcohol.

[@Axxeman30008]

That was cool Rich, thanks.

[@meowskull]

What I like to do is just fold up a piece of paper, usually a flash card or sticky note (non sticky side) and rub it liberally on the pins. It gets most of the dirt and oxidation off and I don't have time to open up and clean 150+ nes games, 80+ snes games, 90+ genesis games and so on :P But I do rub all my carts down with rubbing alcohol to get the dirt and germs off the plastic and googon for sticker residue.

[@johneygd]

What i alway's dit was just using qtips with water and clean both sides of the cartride pins and the inside of the case, after that i used dry qtips to remove the emaining moisture to make sure it's dry again. It works.

[@TheDarker00]

I hope this video was up when I was a kid. I used to clean my games that way and many of my friends laugh at me. Their games got damaged but mine no.

[@TheSlaterReport]

Would Ever clear (95%alcohol/190proof) work well? It has less water than isopropyl alcohol and no additives? Also you can use the leftovers to get smashed while you play Mario Kart.

[@benjaminstorace6699]

Say, ReviewTechUSA, what's your opinion of Hydrogen Peroxide as a cleaner for electronic contacts? Also, in regards to the eraser, is Ruby Red what you would recommend?

[@FortuneInLies]

This sounds like a great method. I've used denatured alcohol and cartridges work 100% of the time (with a clean slot on the mega drive). Still interested in cleaning the plastic though..

[@julhund]

I use, what i guess you in america call brasso, to clean my games. two drops on a damp microfiber cloth and just rub gently a couple of times over the pins. Then i use a clean, damp cloth to wipe away any residue and finally a dry cloth. This removes all the oxidation and makes the game like new. =) Haven't tried the eraser-method, but it looks good as well, and probably a little easier.

[@UmarAbid]

would Electrical Contact Cleaner work for cleaning the game reader part or what should i get? I am from the uk. what should i look out for on the packing? for sega mega drive 2 and snes reader cleaning.

[@BuyOrDie89]

Nice and informative sir. Thank you very much.

[@Protagulous]

Great job

[@joethemanager1]

By "rubbing alcohol", did you mean ethyl alcohol? I'm wondering because only a few minutes later you said it was fine to use isopropyl alcohol.

[@SakuraShirakawa]

No, he said Isopropyl is ok, he said rubbing alcohol isn't because it isn't pure isopropyl, they add glycerine to rubbing alcohol which leaves a residue.

[@noctbot]

Electrical Contact Cleaner is the right product, please dont use windex or any kind of alcohol or an eraser, just make sure to remove the roms from the cartridges as it is hard on plastic.

[@ryansahs1657]

fond on the eraser trick. thanks for sharing

[@LilDwarf]

Is clinic alcohol ok to clean cartridges? Just yesterday I was cleaning the contacts of my GameBoy Color and one of my games, and I was using clinic alcohol and a Qtip. I'm not too savvy on the different alcohols mentioned in this video and I want to get that doubt out of my mind

[@TheRetroTycoon]

Very informative indeed. Thank you Sir.