How To Bleed Shimano Road Hydraulic Disc Brakes - Bike Maintenance

[@michaelzoeller9552]

This is probably the clearest video I have seen of how to bleed hydraulic disk brakes, having watched this I now feel much more confident in tackling the task! I am about to work on a friends, straight-bar bike, but the principal's the same (more or less). I was cursing for offereing to give their bike the once-over, but now I feel far more up to the job. Fingers crossed.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Michael, glad you’ve enjoyed it. Just keep an eye on your brake fluid type, and check the funnel fitment size on those flat bar levers. 👍

[@xagnak]

This is the only video that actually encouraged me to do it by myself and I have! Thanks a million. Didn't have a kit however (but did have the funnel and a pipe), so I got a medical syringe from the pharmacy and chucked in a 10 mm allen key instead of a blocker. Cost me a fraction of what I would have to pay for a kit where I live.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks, Xagnak, glad you found it useful. Those are good tips, like it 👍

[@hpLondon]

An absolute masterclass demonstration! Thank you for the video and the time that you have spent on the production👏👏👏

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thank you, Hitesh, that’s very kind of you 👍

[@TheRickysee]

This is now my favorite cycling channel, literally relaxes me just to put it on and listen to you give tips on bike maintenance. I never get tired of it,very relaxing. Thank you.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Rickysee, That is great to hear. Maybe I should start one of those relaxation therapy channels 😀

[@TheRickysee]

@@ribblevalleycyclist No. keep doing exactly what you’re doing. Also the sound quality is great. I’m also going to finally tackle a brake bleed. Great stuff.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Will do. The brake bleed is easy. Make sure you've got everything you need before you start, take your time, watch out for those air bubbles, and most of all, enjoy doing it yourself 👍. Let me know how you get on. Jon

[@zmkpower]

best practical bleeding instructions I have seen !

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks Zeeshan, glad you found it helpful. 👍

[@MatzeKel]

One of the best channels for learning bike maintenance!🎉👍😎🚲

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Wow, thanks! 👍

[@Killroy76]

Bob Ross of Bike Mechanics ❤

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

The Joy of Painting….. Loved watching that in my teens. Don’t think anyone will ever be as cool or smooth as Bob. Thanks 👍

[@Sarabanjina]

I watched this to refresh my memory on how to brake bleed and came back for the pure bicycle maintenance ASMR ❤😂

[@thomasdavidbassett483]

I worked on the tools for Shimano with the Great Alan Hewitt (sadly no longer with us) Martin Clark now full time with his brother at VeloSport and Jon Hargreaves at 24 hour events World cup and World Championships and all sorts of other events. I would give you ten out of ten on that, well done, even not editing out the bloopers.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Crikey, thanks 👍

[@johnboxxy3432]

Thanks for a clear and concise explanation, with wit. I have changed the pads on my Dutch bike but yet to bleed . I wasn't aware the pistons where plastic, I had assumed aluminium.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Well...... technically, I think they're ceramic. Probably should've explained that point a bit better. But you're right, they're not metal! Glad it was useful

[@hawkinssmythe]

Never bled my brakes before, but will do it every time now. Made it so simple. Like a new bike! thank you.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Mark, So pleased you found the video useful and that you’ve done it yourself and seen an improvement. That’s the reason I make them. Got a few more on the way 👍 Thanks, Jon

[@imperfect896]

Thank you! Elaborate explanation, both interesting and helpful! I really like your presenting style. Thanks again.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks Imper, glad it was helpful! Got one coming up on stopping squealing disc brakes...... watch this space!! Jon

[@danevans9742]

Appreciate the tip at the end about adding a bit more fluid and operating the lever a few times to push the pistons out some to meet the disk after using the bleed block. I was losing my mind after re-bleeding 4 times and still not getting good pressure!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad it helped 👍

[@andrewsallee6044]

Most useful video I've seen in a long time! I have a bike with Tektro discs that is overdue for a brake bleed. I have checked the Tektro website, and those, too, need mineral oil. I wouldn't have thought to ask before watching this video. You saved me a LOT of frustration.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad it helped, Andrew. Good luck with the brake bleed 👍

[@danhaag70s]

Thanks!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thank you 👍. Will grab a coffee on the next ride ☕️

[@PhilJohn1980]

Great video - it's interesting that several people now have done the inject from the bottom without draining first technique. The official Shimano manual states to drain old fluid first and then introduce the new, but this method is definitely less faffy!

[@philippedhomme2833]

Like the video in video. This gives at the same time detail and overview

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad you like it, because it’s a massive pain in the ar$e to do 😂

[@DennisPlagge]

I learnt how to do it and even the experienced bike mechanic in my self-help workshop picked up a few tips when I did it there. Since then I've been selling a few kits, with a bleed block that works as a combination tool for pushing the pistons back and a few other simplifications. And I give this video to those who buy a kit, because it is the best help despite the countless videos. PS: But the Shimano stuff isn't the best parts to do the job in my experience and that makes it unnecessarily expensive. Only the original oil should be used in any case.

[@johncatherinetully8179]

Watched several brake bleed videos..this is the best, great tips and detailed instructions. Good advice on tools and equipment.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks, John, glad to hear you found it useful. 👍

[@bigdog69515]

I have been looking at all videos on Brake Bleed and this video is the best one.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks, Jerry 👍

[@wedger1]

Thanks, this worked a treat for me, end result is better than my last professional service

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Great news, glad it was of help 👍

[@paulclark895]

Great video. Thank you. I changed to disc brakes as I was looking to invest in some deep carbon rims and was fed up with wearing out rims during wet winter rides. My disc carbon rims will now last for the length of the bike.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

It's the main reason I too moved from rim to disc. I will never forget the day I put a set of £500 rim brake wheels out for the bin truck!

[@ianflanagan7827]

Excellent video Jon, very clear instructions. This has giving me the insight to complete the task myself.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad it was helpful! Let me know how you get on 👍

[@cliveastman6448]

Great video. Excellent delivery, clear and concise instructions on disc brake maintenance and bleeding. Thank you.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks for the nice feedback, Clive, appreciate it 👍

[@ibizasmurf9355]

Finally a working method mate! Thank you so much, I was fighting with my GRX 400 brakes for 2 days because of another stupid youtube video. You saved my day! Cheers

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi iBiZa Smurf, Glad it helped. That's the trouble with KZbin. I use the 4 video rule...... if they all say the same thing, then it's probably right!! Thanks for watching. Jon

[@BrettCohen-e3g]

You’re a legend. Perfect mix of funny and informative

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks Brett, glad you enjoyed! Got one coming up on stopping squealing disc brakes...... watch this space!! Jon

[@MattWilding_dev]

Great tips - just did Tektro brakes following this. The hardware is a little different but the principle is exactly the same. Thanks for making the job a breeze.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Agreed, the hardware is a little different, but the principle is exactly the same. Glad it helped 👍

[@kcrcr173]

I just used this video and the Epic Bleed Solutions Shimano kit (£15.99) to replace the mineral oil in my Shimano 105 front hydraulic disc brake. The kit included everything to do the job and this video gave me the confidence to do the job myself. The key is to take your time and this video is well paced although I paused the video whilst doing each step myself. The proof will be in the road test but if I get back without brake failure then I'll be doing the rear brake next 😊🤞

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi KCRCR, Glad you found the video useful 👍 Thanks, Jon

[@kcrcr173]

@@ribblevalleycyclist heya Jon, just got back from a 30 mile road test and front brake was much better so now onto the rear brake. Presumably it'll need a drop more fluid for the rear as its got further to go ? Cheers Kev

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi KCRCR, Good to hear the first one went well. The front is always easier, because most of the pipe faces upwards, so the air comes out easier. The back can be a little more difficult to get the air out, as there is less pipe facing upwards. It's common to see bike builders leave the bike on the stand at an angle, and the funnel on overnight, to let the air escape. And yes, it uses more...... roughly 50% more. Good luck with it 👍 Jon

[@alexchionh5527]

great and easy to understand explaination, encouraging

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad you found it useful 👍

[@glennmorgan8691]

Awesome vid well done!!! Liked your tips with the pad retaining bolt.I recently watched a youtube from zoubTube and he recommends getting rid of the dirty brake fluid in reverse because all the dirt enters the system from the caliber and you don't want to push all the crap into your lever which makes sense to me!So you fill the funnel and only put a little bit of fluid in the syringe and pull all the crapy fluid into the syringe.All the other steps are done exactly like your method.Cheers!!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Glenn, Great tip! If I'm honest, I agree with you. It makes much more sense to do it that way. However, Shimano, and the industry generally recommends the other way because pulling the fluid down from the funnel is reliant on the individual putting enough fluid in the funnel to begin with, and not sucking a shed-load of air into the system. Pushing the fluid from a syringe upwards prevents this kind of error. Sometimes you need to allow for..... well, you know!!!! I suppose it's a bit like a car beeping loudly to say the door is open....... because the massive hole on the side of the car isn't warning enough 😀. Thanks for watching, glad you found it useful. Jon

[@hoppers6899]

Best video ever. Im a mug at maintenance but got this to work first time. Brakes perfect now. Thanks!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Best video ever..... Not sure about that 😂. Glad you found it helpful, it's always great to hear that someone has found my content useful. Thanks for watching. Jon

[@hoppers6899]

Thanks Jon - definitely clearest one I've seen. Well done.

[@Nate021]

Thanks for sharing this knowledge , some things I just let the store do but this is a great and clear explanation .

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad you enjoyed it 👍

[@eskiljakobsson3953]

Best spent half hour of my life :) Thanks a bunch for a great video, so many good tips.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad it helped!

[@KOL630]

I’ve watched quite a few of these videos and one thing I don’t understand is why you don’t simply fill reservoir at top, open bleed nipple on calliper and hand pump fluid through until all air bubbles are out. This is how I have done it in the past on MTB’s and the theory is similar on cars (I E built track cars and installed brake systems in the past). Just seems like a lot of faffing and I’m not sure why 😅 Not a criticism just an observation. Nice video btw. I know a lot of riders complain about disc brakes and they can be a PITA with the rubbing and noises and faffing with bleeding them etc (if hydraulic).

[@wlgrd7052]

I'm watching this due to it being my first time trying, but I would guess that since air travels upwards, you won't get as much air out if you're just doing it from the top? I also have the exact same question and haven't found any good answer

[@pavelkryka5993]

The best and really functional tutorial that I followed to get it right. Unlucky for the service mechanics, they won't be able to afford bread...😆

[@kixigvak]

I'm an American and I can understand this guy. A lot of the Brit bike guys are tough to understand.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks, James 👍. If I’m honest, I’ve never thought about that. Saying that though, my KZbin stats say I get a lot of visitors from across the pond.

[@time01010]

It is because he doesn’t have a strong regional accent, Americans struggle with those.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

@@time01010 The people in my village would disagree with you on that one, Tim.... "That silly southern softie with those posh bikes" 🤣🤣🤣

[@Miguel_Toro_1]

Hey Jon, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. You explain the job you are doing in detail. Very educational video. 🤜

[@enginord]

Excellent video! Great pace. Great content!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@g.fortin3228]

GREAT video. Nice tips and tricks and I like that you didn't edit that brake rub out, because I did the same thing on my mtb rotor and had to try 6 times to correct it LoL. Nice job .

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it 👍

[@nickcaddy2831]

Great step by step guide and solved (hopefully!) my spongy brake issue. Cheers!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad it helped!

[@DesDOZR]

outstanding tutorial, thanks a lot. this time i think i finally got it

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad it helped 👍

[@catshoemike]

Really good and clear video, just done mine (last did them 2 years ago and I'd forgotten how haha). One thing I found difficult was to get the angle of the bike enough to get the air to rise out of the back brake line (GRX600). It worked for me to take the calliper right off the frame and let it dangle so that it was thus the lowest part of the system. Also, GRX600, it's not a 2.5 Allen, it's a Torx15 to take the cap off the reservoir. I found out the hard way

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Take the calliper off…… blumin’ genius idea that! Will be borrowing that one 😂😂 Yeah, as I say in the video, bleed port location and tool size does vary. Probably should’ve mentioned Torx though.

[@juanmalie1694]

Nice easy clean Good stuff

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad you found it useful 👍

[@johnwilliamson9453]

Very well done sir! Most through explanation I’ve seen!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Cheers, John, appreciate it 👍

[@holdenc1006]

Fantastic; just subscribed, thanks so much for the effort that went into this vid.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

My pleasure, glad you liked it. Thanks for the sub 👍

[@roncooke2188]

it’s great when the calliper as bleed nipple, the ones i have in the workshop never seem to have a bleed nipple. thanks for An interesting video

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Like the older SRAM ones where you have to screw it in, yeah, not great 😕

[@2wheelsrbest327]

Another brilliant video. I am about to build a Gravel bike & its proving to be a steep learning curve as today I discovered today that I need new Sram wheels to fit the cassette I have bought. I have learnt just like Campag you can't really mix & match. Anyway that's the gearing and rather than drops I am going to fit straight bars with Shimano brake levers so even though you were fitting different levers your video will make it so much easier for me. I am pretty sure I will have to keep viewing it on my phone though when I am doing it. Can I be checky & ask you how you fit the barb in the line because I really don't want to buy the Shimano tool as its a one off job for me. Thanks again.Ted

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi 2 Wheels. If you're careful, you can just lightly clamp the hose, and then tap them in. I also use a pretty cheap tool in this video, go give it a look if you have time: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKPGiHeurtamg5I Good luck with the build 👍

[@Tanguy1911]

absolutely amazing contents. You convinced me to try and do it myself !

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

You can do it!

[@anthonymelidy5554]

Mu son-in-law was having problems with his disc brakes (I have rim brakes) so my daughter asked me for advice. I had no idea so I watched this video. Seems well thought out. Will recommend to my son-in-law. If he still has problems, I have another job to do. Great video. Thank you.

[@poorginge]

Super helpful and easy to follow. Thank you!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

You're welcome 👍

[@TomJordans]

Great video - thanks for taking the time to provide the details.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

My pleasure!

[@danielkoch8978]

best tutorial! thank you very much!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks 👍

[@4Th30neAndOnly_7]

Good tip I heard is Bleeding it from top to bottom, especially if the brakes have not been taken care of for over a year, because doing it the usual way you basically get dirty oil through the entire system.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

I’ve heard this too, good tip 👍

[@davidpayne8413]

I use an old tooth brush to clean outside and inside the caliper, also the handle makes a great tool for pushing the pistons back (also alcohol is my cleaner of choice)

[@stephanemonfette106]

Great tutorial! I found plastic tire levers work perfect to push the pistons.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

They do, as long as they’re good ones that don’t bend. I have two different Park Tool piston tools, yet I still use those long nosed pliers 😂😂

[@Chriss_Roc]

Am I the only one for whom it doesn't work (for rear)? I do it as you describe, the syringe only presses against the pressure in the system and not the oil into the system. Thanks for the best video, you‘re the only one who has my bleed screw at the hoods

[@GG-pr3yo]

This is a two beer video - but very informative!!! Thank You!!

[@exoskeleton0906]

Thank you so much for this video..absolutely brilliant 👍

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Richard, You’re welcome. Hope you found it useful 👍

[@gellertsamel9105]

Best video ever. Thank you for the help!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad you found it useful, and thanks for watching 👍

[@danielvalenzuela7]

Keep at it!!

[@timarrowsmith80]

Excellent video, thanks!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad you liked it! Thanks Tim 👍

[@irgccg]

Please do a video on how to do the back brake. That one always gives me fits!

[@bopper623]

Just an awesome video.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks 👍

[@leslie7922]

My front bolt slightly seized and I was honestly surprised that shimano doesn't grease it from factory (these were brand new calipers untouched until my first service). Added grease and now it has been easy to undo.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Completely agree, Leslie. Can't stress this point enough. If that bolt seizes, you're buying a new caliper..... and then fitting it!!

[@sgf55]

Another ​vote for grease although I prefer to use a trace of high melting point copper grease to remove any chance of contamination due to melting.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Agreed, copper grease is the best option. But good old grease will do, if you don’t have the copper variant.

[@2wheelsrbest327]

Thank you for replying & that's great advice .

[@mipko]

I always use screw driver, the really big one and I always wrap it in electrical tape to make it soft and use it to push the pistons. Works like a charm every time and I never damaged anything. Just use common sense, be careful and don't use sharp edges or unnecessary force.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Great idea, love that👍. Agreed, common sense is the best tool. Thanks, Jon.

[@woduk]

Plastic tyre lever I’ve always used

[@AzharKhan-rh6us]

best video. thanks

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad you liked it 👍

[@steveallen273]

Thanks, great vid. Feel confident

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Steve, Glad you found it useful. Keep us updated, and let us know how you get on 👍. Thanks for watching. Jon

[@Raymond-Farts]

I found a much much simpler way to bleed the system and you don't even have to remove the wheel. All you need is the Bleed cup you have there, a trigger spray device from any spray bottle, and about a foot or two of clear hose to fit on the bleed screw at the caliper. No syringes or bleed block. Just fill the cup with fresh fluid and pump the trigger into a waste container. Be sure not to let the cup get low with new fluid. Keep discharging fluid until all the bubbles are gone and your done. A 15 minute process guaranteed to work perfectly.

[@garyharrison1322]

Please explain with more detail. Thanks.

[@Raymond-Farts]

@@garyharrison1322 kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5rUe2OHpahro9ksi=sXY10jlXVZMLeUEG

[@jamespartington7835]

Brilliant instructions - I assume the same process applies for MTB as well?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Yes, the fundamentals are the same. Just check fluid type.

[@mtb71]

Loved the Italian Job..

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Loved it..... watched it the other day. Oh, and Google this "Italian Job Mini number plates". It's interesting!

[@mtb71]

@@ribblevalleycyclist brilliant. Keep up the good work.

[@andymcinroy]

Excellent demonstration. Thanks for sharing. In some demos I have seen some people actually pressurise the hydraulic system after bleeding by forcing a little more oil in from the caliper end while keeping the top port closed. Is that a useful final step in your experience? You mention topping up after priming the system with the wheel and pads back in. Perhaps that would do the same thing?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Andy, Glad you found it useful. A fantastic question. Pressurising is a thing, and can sometimes be beneficial. It can overcome excess lever travel where a lever doesn't offer free stroke adjustment (search YT for it). The downside is that it can send the pressure to the brake piston, and therefore cause pad rub. Hope that helps, Jon

[@BrianRPaterson]

Re pushing back pistons - I have had a lot of luck using a plastic tyre lever. Seems to do tgd job, and it's softer than metal.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Tyre lever is a great alternative. Great tip 👍

[@yehweiting]

I like this Vedio very much ,may I ask how often should I bleed my shimano road disk brake? Or what sign should I have to do bleed the brake, thanks.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Yeh, Thanks, glad you like it. It's not easily answered, time, riding conditions and mileage all play a part. The best advice anyone can give is to consider bleeding if you have either spongy brake performance, or poor braking. Also, it's good practice to change every few years anyway. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching, Jon

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

Excellent explanatory skills. Well done. But sorry, you are still second in line behind my man Calvin Jones at Park Tools. 😀👍

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Second to Calvin Jones..... I'll take that 🤣

[@stevebauer454]

Fantástico!! Y luego donde echas el residuo del aceite ?parece fácil, me has animado a hacerlo yo en mi casa

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Steve, It is easy, give it a go. You can get rid of the old oil by taking it to your local waste disposal or recycling centre. Thanks for watching, Jon

[@fbdtravel2594]

excellent video... thanks how to u despose the liquid?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

I just tip it on next doors roses 😉…. Just kidding. You need to check with your local recycling centre as to whether they accept used oil or hydraulic fluids.

[@fbdtravel2594]

@@ribblevalleycyclist thank you so much

[@marchelomarko]

Nice tips 😊

[@Random-ld6wg]

did my first shimano brake bleed and used the instructions in the dealers manual for bleeding. i was worried that when i did the first squeeze after remounting the wheel and pads, the lever sank all the way but it did stiffen up after a pump or 2. i wasn't sure if that was normal but it looks normal in your video.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Don't worry, it's normal

[@Random-ld6wg]

@@ribblevalleycyclist what happens inside the hydraulics as the pistons push in with actual brakes pads vs the block? does a bubble form in the lever? why not remount the wheel and pads after cleaning up the caliper and keep the cup with fluid on and squeeze again to stiffness before removing cup and cleaning up? is the space a buffer for fluid expansion in hot weather but what if it's cold?

[@petcatznz]

Quick question. Would you recommend topping up the fluid again after bedding the new brake pads in? The fluid reservoir seems kind of small and I would guess the fluid level in it drops quite a bit after seating the new pads on to the disc. Thanks.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Petcatznz, Very good question! When fitting new pads, you would push the pistons back into the caliper to accommodate the new thicker pads. So, theoretically, you shouldn't need to bleed. However, if you think the lever travel is excessive, or feels spongy, then it may be worth doing. Hope that helps. Jon

[@hansblok1063]

Jon, excellent demonstration of this procedure, though I have just one question as I have never dealt with hydraulic brake system. For the front you filled the syringe 3/4, however I assume that that will not be sufficient in case doing the rear as the tube/hose is longer and volume is larger. What would be your recommendation for filling it when doing the rear brake, full? Thank you for your advise in advance.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Hans. You are spot on. I’d say just fill the syringe up all the way and put back in the bottle what you don’t use.

[@gerardcummins4595]

Love all your videos, have done all my hoses based on your videos. I went to bleed the brakes but of a snag. I can’t get four into the front calibre no matter how hard I press on syringe. I have isolated it to the brake lever…calibre or hoses not blocked but no oil will go through the brake into the reservoir: any ideas?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Something is blocked somewhere. You need to isolate where the blockage lies. It’ll be the calliper, the hose, or the lever. It’ll be a messy job, but you need to work out which one is blocked. Disconnect the hose at both ends, and see if you can push fluid through both the calliper and lever. If you can, then maybe the link between the hose and the calliper/lever. Hose barb issue maybe. If it passed through the lever and calliper okay, replace the hose/barb/olive.

[@gerardcummins4595]

Thanks so much, I isolated it to the lever, I bled from the reservoir down and push back up which seemed to unblock it, I then proceeded to bleed from the calibre, all done, v satisfying, keep up the great work with the vids…they v good 👍

[@GraphicApe]

Really clear video thank you! - looking to get some advice, I’m swapping my rear 105 road calliper from BR-R7070 to BR-R7170 - question: I will need to change the olive, however do I need to change the insert as well? I'm looking to avoid cutting the hose unless absolutley necessary

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi, chances are, the olive will be compressed onto the hose, so you'll need to cut the hose to remove it. So, you'll lose roughly 1cm

[@GraphicApe]

@@ribblevalleycyclist Thank you!

[@zblojko]

Great channel. I love it. For a bolt do I need any special grease to prevent galvanization corosion?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad you like it. If it's normal nuts/bolts exposed to the elements, then yes. However, on the braking system, don't use grease on the bleed nipples or ports, as it may contaminate the system. Oh, and the best thing to use to prevent galvanic corrosion is Copper Grease. I use this one: amzn.to/3QhD4vc Thanks, Jon

[@zblojko]

@@ribblevalleycyclist Thanks for your answer. I have Shimano GRX brakes. Some say that bolt is already protected from galvanic protection, and it is no need to use grease. Others say that any grease is ok, I heard also that some use litium grease.... It is little confuse for begginer as I am. What is your opinion? Thanks.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

@zblojko Are you talking about the pin that goes through the brake calliper and holds the pads in place?

[@zblojko]

​@@ribblevalleycyclistyes.

[@Batou_73]

Brilliant channel! Instant like and subscribe! Made my brakebleed a breeze!!! Gonna buy that Greasegun asap. What Grease do you use? Looking at the colour it might be the Shimano Premium one?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Rory, Glad you liked it, and welcome onboard 👍 This is what is in there right now: amzn.to/45KcfWS But I also use this: amzn.to/3YWyJ4O Both are good, but the Park stuff is the best.

[@Batou_73]

@@ribblevalleycyclist Thank you for the fast response all Park Tools it is then ! =)

[@BloodyClash]

😁about to change my old callipers for some xt - so should learn how to bleed. thanks for the video

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi @ BloodyClash, good luck with it. Let us know how you get on. 👍 Thanks for watching, Jon

[@montuvadgama]

Thank you ! Looking at some “big boys” videos on KZbin i was nervous about doing it myself however you explained with such care and attention i am going to try doing it on my MTB. One question i have is do i need to keep slightly excess fluid in syringe downstairs so that when i am pumping the lever air doesn’t get in ? Also the bolt at caliper is open when pumping lever ? Cheers

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi, Montu, Glad you've found this useful. You shouldn't need to add more fluid into the syringe at the caliper end, as pumping the lever will drawer fluid from the funnel end. Also, there should still be a little bit in the syringe pipe from when you pushed the3 fluid in. The problem with adding more fluid into the syringe, is you may also accidentally add air into the system. Hope that helps.

[@cl0wnf0undation]

Excellent video. But, right shifter to bleed the front brake? Is that a left-handed bike?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. In the UK, the brakes are that way around.

[@cl0wnf0undation]

@@ribblevalleycyclist how did I get to this point in my life and not know that?? Thanks!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

I only found out when I went on a cycling holiday in Majorca about 10 years ago. Nearly went over the bars 😂

[@alenbstn3]

Have you opened bottom, before pumping brakes and leaning bike? Otherwise, very informative

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

No, close the bottom off first 👍

[@roncooke2188]

You mentioned a few times the magnetic tray but i seem get more screws on the outside than inside the tray

[@openwheelracing88]

as you push fluid thru the syringe into caliper, do you simultaneously pump the lever?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

No need to, the path is already open for the fluid to pass through the whole system. You only pump the lever when you need to encourage the trapped air in the lever to come out.

[@openwheelracing88]

@@ribblevalleycyclist but does it hurt to do so?

[@marcospedrokuhn5957]

Tenho uma Fazer FZ25 2022. Vou esperar para migrar para uma bicilíndrica de maior cilindrada.

[@SepiaMC]

so glad the caliper adjustment didn't work the first time =) happens to me all the time

[@richroberts8238]

Well done about as good a video of this work as I have seen. Getting ready to fo same with install of Ultegra 12 speed on Lynskey Pro GR, soon as fluid and discs show up.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Glad you liked it, thanks 👍. Titanium gravel bike, very nice 👌. What wheels and disc did you go with?

[@richroberts8238]

@@ribblevalleycyclist H plus son Hydra with White Industries hubs. But bought for the Industry Nine I35 wheels I use for road mainly. Building up with Ultegra 12 speed now. Hope 160 front and SRAM 140 in rear.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Nice. I use the Hope floating disc rotors on one of my road bikes, they’re amazing. Good luck with your build.

[@comedyman112]

is it wrong to do it the opposite way? I mean using the syringe to pull the oil from the funnel and if any dirty oil comes into the syringe, close the circuit at the brake caliper, empty that syringe, reattach it, open the circuit then add more oil into the funnel and continue

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Comedyman112, No, not at all. The main task is to replace the oil without adding air. There is no reason you can't go the other way. Tip though, keep an eye on the supply at the top.... you don't want it to run dry and pull in loads of air!! However, when it comes to getting the air out, you'll still need to follow the standard process. Hope this helps. Thanks, Jon

[@comedyman112]

@@ribblevalleycyclist thanks. I've seen it done the other way on other tutorials and wasn't clear.

[@thegrimnorth2835]

For anyone that has issues with the hoods staying saggy. A little bit of Self adhesive carpet tape works a treat!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Great idea. Thanks for the tip 👍

[@NonLegitNation2]

do you prefer this method or a gravity bleed? I'm about to replace a brake hose because I'm putting the rear brake from a different bike onto another bike and the hose isn't long enough. I've watched other videos and it seems a gravity bleed might be the easiest method when doing a brake hose replacement.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

The 'Official' Shimano way is to push up to the lever, that why I did it that way in this video. However, pulling down to the calliper, or gravity works just as well. Air bubbles go up, and that is why Shimano say you should bleed up..... push in the direction of the bubbles. As long as you get the fluid in and the air out, I don't suppose it matters. I've done a video on hose replacement: kzbin.info/www/bejne/anbEn2aGZ96Il7M

[@ranxxerox6407]

So what happens when you strip the bolt area for the retaining pin of the brake pads? can a new BR M785 still work?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Ranx, great question. If the head is stripped but you've managed to get it out, don't re-use it. Some people use an R-Clip or a Split-Pin, but I'm not a fan of that, because you need to bend it to stop it coming out. You can buy replacements, check Gorilla Brakes out - gorillabrakes.com/collections/brake-pad-retaining-pins Thanks for watching, Jon

[@butha]

thanks

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

You're welcome!

[@andy2020ize]

If I buy the premium kit, I don’t need to buy the shimano funnel and adapter? Is that right. Thanks

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Spot on! This is it: Premium (Adapter included) - amzn.to/47OjnCy