The DIY Electric Harley: The First Signs of Life

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[@stuffandjunkandthings364]

You are going to want to reinforce the swingarm mount. The factory swingarm shaft passed through the transmission to maintain a constant distance between the drive sprocket and the wheel, the swingarm to frame mounts allowed for some movement (to allow the rubber mounted motor/trans to move, thus lowering the vibration transferred to the chassis), which is going to cause you issues with belt/ chain slack. Source- I've built more than my fair share of choppers and custom Harleys.

[@gearbanginentertainment7476]

thats a bad source then

[@conchobar]

@@gearbanginentertainment7476 Would you prefer Wikipedia? LOL!!!

[@MrJoecamel96]

@@gearbanginentertainment7476 it’s not when the issues are true

[@MrJoecamel96]

Forgot about the swing arm having excessive lateral movement without the trans

[@xavierpantig1772]

man said "Source: me, bitch"

[@cheeseburgerbeefcake]

The DC converter should be placed somewhere the rider can get a burn from it for the full Harley experience.

[@marthamryglod291]

I was thinking directly under the seat so you can get a toasty ass riding around on a nice day.

[@dafalzonAUS]

@@marthamryglod291 even better on a cold wet day

[@roodick85]

Gotta cover it with oil as well

[@TheNone724]

High power linear regulator should get job done :D

[@rbland]

The DC converter shouldn't get hot at all unless it's under rated

[@emielleclercq]

Last gauge should really be an oil level gauge. Maybe make it display controller/motor temperature but it should still have an oil symbol on it.

[@lilman227]

Labeled “oil leaked” perhaps?

[@lilman227]

Labeled “oil leaked” perhaps?

[@toyotaboyhatman]

agreed.. maybe controller and motor temperature

[@Blox117]

this guy's subscribers aren't very intelligent people are they

[@RobinAltoft]

Just gut the RPM gauge, fill it full of oil and just have a sharpied red line across the middle that says "Oil Level" or something funny.

[@kristjanveski]

The last gauge should be an inclinometer, so you know exactly when you're going to tip over and drop it.

[@anydaynow01]

Because it's not a matter of if you do a wheelie the first time you ride an electric bike, it is how big the wheelie will be, or so I've been told!

[@jeffreysalzman1497]

Now that you have removed centrifugal force from this bike, this seems like a wise choice :)

[@focused313]

That's a dope idea.

[@Christoph-sd3zi]

Maybe salvage an inclinometer out of an old Dodge Raider in the junkyard

[@naughty.r0bot]

Hi! I'm the belt drive guy. You're welcome viewers, the wait will be worth it when the bike is dead silent without chain noise, stretch and slap. :D Harleys were always heavy and very torquey, which is why they went away from chains and their maintenance issues. The torque put out by this electric motor will be bananas, so a good kevlar reinforced belt will provide a wonderfully smooth, maintenance free ride. I ride, and chain maintenance is feh. Removing, degreasing and resprocketing one is a terrible waste of your time on a beautiful summer day. Looking good guys, love the updates 🫡

[@vidznstuff1]

It's a small Chinese motor. The torque will be ok, not "massive"

[@naughty.r0bot]

@@vidznstuff1 Given the physical size of that motor, the size of the terminals & gauge of the cabling leading to & from it, its torque output will be a multiple of the V-Twin it replaces, regardless where it was manufactured.

[@keithbroh5730]

@@vidznstuff1 you consider this a small motor? Have you not seen what 12v Milwaukee drills can do and you don’t think this motor will easily double the output the original motor had

[@bambino1008]

You could replace the tachometer with an Ammeter gauge. It would tell you how much current is leaving the batteries at any given time, which is a similar sort of information as RPM.

[@PeterMikeSolomon]

This is the most logical solution

[@gearbanginentertainment7476]

why would i care about that

[@bambino1008]

@@gearbanginentertainment7476 It's an important bit of information because the user could then extrapolate from the immediate rate of discharge to determine how much longer they could ride for. For example, if you have 100ah of 72v batteries and you have a discharge rate of 100 amps, then you know you could ride for 1 hour. If you're discharging at 1000 amps, then you know you only have 6 minutes of ride time at that discharge rate.

[@PeterMikeSolomon]

@@bambino1008 it could also warn you if you are exceeding your batteries max discharge rating

[@MegaRad666]

@@bambino1008 I think you mean 6 minutes, unless you're using metric hours. lol

[@raiemie7365]

as a climber, I appreciated the "not for climbing" part as a motorcyclist, I loved the video and the build

[@Dkdirtbikes]

for the other gauge you should get a LCD screen for a moving map.

[@MrBryantbryant]

The flute solo is the best part.

[@flywithhuddy]

Last gauge should be a range calculator, where it shows how much range you have left

[@jeffrykopis5468]

Steve, your fabrication, grinding, and welding far exceeds your flute playing 😂

[@bob808]

It would be dope if the rear brake was regen on demand (provided it's possible/easy to do). For low speed manoeuvres, or holding the bike on a hill, the regen would _probably_ be sufficient.

[@toddclancy5237]

Stevo that frame design looks amazing

[@AKeenan5641]

it really makes the bike

[@rjthomasindyusa]

In regards to disconnecting exoskeleton..... look up 'custom bicycle builders' or 'custom bicycle parts supply'. You can buy weldable lugs that will allow you to break apart the frame in an elegant way.

[@fritzb.3978]

Looking Great! Replace RPM gauge with A) video monitor for a camera system. Toggles through or combines however many cameras you have. B) control gauge for the cooled or heated saddle bags you have. One saddle bag is cold for soda. The other saddle bag is hot for tacos. The gauge reads the temp of the left and right bags. And of course C) the Leenda/hot chick gauge. Maybe it’s a “thick” meter. Could work mom Dudes too, I suppose. LMK if you need help calibrating, though I think it’s a personal choice. But, since this is probably connected to one of the video cameras, it’s probably just a toggle option. Or, very simply, you make a bracket and holder their for your phone with a charging cable that runs from the radio, but then your phone’s screen is your GPS in a very good place for vision. But also if you are using Car Play, you can control the apps from a higher position. But would have to swap sides with the Speedo so can use left hand.

[@putoutmyfirewithgasoline1877]

CKY is a badass alt band. Drummer is Jess Margera brother of Bam Margera

[@vidznstuff1]

If you're known as somebody's brother, you're not that great

[@putoutmyfirewithgasoline1877]

@vidznstuff1 pointless comment award congrats

[@thewatcher9804]

Rich can't be stopped. He comes up with build ideas like a mad genius on a mission to save the world.

[@boomerhgt]

What a load of nonsense Rich has never had an original idea in his life, an electric motorcycle wow who would have thunk

[@alexn78666]

@@boomerhgt you're right. Salvaging a flooded Tesla? nope. V8 Tesla? nope. DIY Cyberquad? Nope. Electric conversion using Milwaukee batteries? Nope. Need I go on? get out of here with your trolling hate.

[@rcdenniz]

How about a small GPS / Android / Apple screen... Or maybe a rear camera... For the dash

[@LuizHartkopf]

I’d say a radar scanner would also be good haha

[@sonofagun1037]

Replace the rpm gauge with a power reserve gauge so you can see what your power draw is as you drive

[@aircooledetc383]

You could probably implement the tachometer idea with a traditional electronic input tach by reading a single phase pulse off of the three phase motor. If the donor bike uses wasted spark and the tach looks for two impulses per revolution, I'd find a way to read hall signals or outputs off of two out of three phases. From there I'd time the tach 12V impulses each time the phases fire, netting you a mostly correct two per fires revolution. The extra 60* phase offset (lateness) of the second pulse should be smoothed out by the tach itself. Pretty sure the stock Harley ignition timing between cylinders is also offset and wonky. Good luck! I always wanted to do a build like this. Can't wait to see what you do!

[@samwilson3884]

It took me way too many times going slow-mo at .25 speed to figure out what flashed at 11:13. Well played.

[@greyguy.960]

What was it ?

[@Ghost02041974]

The summer seemed to last forever And if I had the choice Yeah, I'd always Bryan Adams - Summer Of '69 - Karaoke Version from Zoom Karaoke 18K views 1y ago 121 Share Zoom Karaoke Official 72.9K subscribers Download SUBSCRIBE Comments 6 Add a commens Create Bring you up Who will turn Your world around

[@jasvinder5169]

@@greyguy.960 Bryan Adams- Summer of `69 screenshot

[@zaccaldwell]

Steven, did you raid my closet from 10 years ago? Tdag last week and Cky this week?! My jams 🤘

[@boxeclectic]

Well, you have impeccable music taste then. 🎉

[@fernandjose07]

There is a rollcage clamp/adapter which sits “inline”with the tubing. Itll permit a secure install to provide support, make the frame removable and look sick.

[@therealcdnuser]

Steven’s uncanny resemblance to Kenny Rogers is incredible. “You've got to know when to hold 'em Know when to fold 'em Know when to walk away And know when to run You never count your money When you're sittin' at the table There'll be time enough for countin' When the dealin's done” Maybe a recoreder version is possible??

[@mikep5281]

I come for the EV tech, I stay for the recorder compositions.

[@somedudethatscool6345]

Thank you for showing me exactly how to Hotwire your electric Harley

[@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes]

You should use electric car battery modules like hyundai kona, chevy bolt, VW Golf for instance because they can have a lot of amps discharge. You will need a lot of amps discharge capability to be able move such a heavy bike. No way that cheap battery pack power battery pack is capable of 20kw Love the build. Hope that helps

[@VioletPrism]

The best way to open a can of biscuits is to peel off the outer paper then smack it on the corner of your counter on the middle where the seam is. By doing this you avoid the pop being sudden and showing the can WHOS THE BOSS

[@sallypine8316]

To replace the tachometer you should 3D print an insert that holds a few toggle switches for extra functions.

[@PabloDelafuria]

you could put a consumption/regen watt gauge if that even exist

[@jacobfleetwood4314]

the open tabs on the rivian giveaway cut scene 🤣🤣😂😂

[@jpcii]

I would still cut a disk off the end of the splined output shaft that fits your belt sprocket and drill the center adding a keyway. It would be the easiest way to get your output sprocket to fit. Drill and tap a hole on the end of the keyed output shaft to place a bolt and washer to hold it all. If need be, could even weld a washer to the shaft to act as a back stop so you could torque it down.

[@uprightape100]

Sweet build, Guys.......actually deserves a professional paint job, powder-coat or whatever they do now.

[@GratefulEd907]

Rattle can for professional finish

[@bradsheridan8658]

these guys are on top of their game.

[@Ingens_Scherz]

Yeah, as long the thing doesn't snap in half.

[@carleh2008]

@@Ingens_Scherz safety third buddy

[@emersonb5764]

Voltage will be equal among the battery packs if wired in Parallel. So separate volt meters is useless in that case. If they read differently, it’s due to being slightly out of calibration or voltage drop in the connections and the numbers won’t tell you anything. Even if one battery pack goes bad, you won’t see it with everything connected, the voltage will change across all packs. A series connection between packs is where you could/would benefit from separate meters on each pack, to ensure they’re balanced, which is only a thing for series connections, not parallel. You could do a separate ammeter for each pack though. Then if the resistance of one pack changes you should be able to see a change in the amperage output. And then the last gauge could be the total amperage output. Or better yet, remaining battery capacity.

[@W9HJBill]

Thank God I'm not your typical Harley owner. I've been riding for over 40 years and I've never dropped a bike (aside from when I used to ride dirt bikes) and now that I'm old and busted up and riding a trike, odds are I won't drop that. ;) Keep up the videos, I can't wait to see this thing on the road. I would love to see an electric cruiser or trike.

[@Xiph1980]

For that other gauge, how about a TFT display for nav/multimedia/other?

[@dre3k78]

Yeah i was thinking Nav too

[@DirtSweatGears]

That electric drivetrain demo make this look REALLY straightforward. I kinda feel like I should start making plans to convert my 53 Studebaker.

[@tonybennett3]

OMG! Ditto for my '54 Belair! I figured I'll take my 327 and drop it into a Kit Car! It's recycling 😎

[@Nphen]

Presuming you can find a motor that can deliver the power you want, and it comes with a controller you can figure out, batteries are the hard part for an electric vehicle. Rich & Steven bought some top grade cells for this motorcycle. They only needed 4. That Studebaker's not huge so you could get 50 to 100 miles of range without breaking the bank and plenty more if you're smart with placement and want to pay more for more range.

[@DirtSweatGears]

@@Nphen Ya. All I really need is some basic fabrication skills. It would be really helpful to know how to weld on projects like these. But I have a worthless Triumph TR7 that I'm looking to do a cyberpunk style build with, so I can learn to weld on that car.

[@tonybennett3]

@@DirtSweatGears Wedge-Shaped Cybercar! Can't wait to see the results!

[@purplebooger6410]

AWSOME build! I sure hope they get the pivot point correct for the drive belt so that the belt doesn’t go slack when they hit bumps. Hopefully they remove the rear shocks and cycle the suspension after it’s all bolted together and check the belt stays tight. Should be fast when done! Good work.

[@jimrobcoyle]

20,000 Watts at 750 watts/hp equals 26.6 HP.

[@tomasjosefvela1]

I think it would be cool if there is anyway to install a small screen where the tachometer was, that could be connected to a camera that is pointed behind you so you see while you are riding or stopped at a light, without having to turn your head and lose focus on whats in-front of you.. I know some people that have been rear ended while on motorcycles and have always thought that would be a good feature and could give a better view than a mirror.... Loving this project can't wait to see how it turns out.

[@lilrazzy95]

as a man who has a 22 cvo, its my 7th harley, the gauge needs to be a analog clock. i determine weather a vehicle is luxurious or not by the type of clock it has. also run Tee bars with 7/8ths bars. it will feel lighter. make sure it stays below 30 inches wide. it should fit your throttle if its 22mil

[@nicknomski8399]

Maybe a cuckoo clock...

[@lilrazzy95]

@@nicknomski8399 yea, a bird in a leather jacked playing Pearl Jam! Dumb question can a bird be balding? 🧐

[@SWTrailsAndWheels]

I am absolutely terrified of popping fresh dough! I'm with Rich on that one!

[@chronicawareness9986]

if you buy bbby right now in 3 days from this message youll regret it.

[@dandil]

if the batteries are wired in parallel then your volt meters for each pack will always read the same lol. Also that contactor is a little sketchy; the point of the contactor is not to stop the big spark, you need a precharge circuit for that. the contactor is your disconnect so you can power down the vehicle.

[@ConstantinSirbu]

Bike looks better and better every episode, good job guys! Last gauge could be one that switches between different readings, for example have the AH used so you'd have a better idea of how much battery left, max watts or Amps used, amps or watts being used at the moment, could even have distance since last charge

[@pinzgauernorcal]

the middle batteries might get hotter than the outside ones

[@doyenpace]

How Rich switches to them ads is so fun to watch, I almost nver see that coming but then he does it so smooth 😊

[@GaiusGarage]

Do you think that 180W DC-DC converter will give you enough headroom? I used it for a electric motorcycle conversion and found that my setup just barely makes the 15A current limit of that DC-DC converter when using the maximum number of 12V accessories at once - like running the high-beam, while braking, and using the horn at the same time (although I'm using a halogen headlight vs LED) -- nevertheless, you don't want your DC-DC converter failing when its the middle of the night and you're about to have a head-on collision

[@skilledtradesscotty4896]

Speakers my guy!! Your bms should handle the balancing. You only need one battery level, one speedo, two of those should be speakers for sure. You ain't a Harley guy unless you have a loud system,Guy!!! And the big cluster, you should try and do something really different. An inclinometer! So you can measure your wheelies and how far you tip.. oh yea, could be another speaker!!! But i digress. Looks good Boys. That skeleton looks sharp.. im surprised you guys don't play with 3d printing too make custom battery covers and the like. Keep up the good work!

[@cleemungo]

Honestly I’m not really into bikes but I can’t wait to see the end result. This thing is looking dope, Harley should really pay attention.

[@AKeenan5641]

god i love this channel and everything about it

[@MJMinarelli]

Oke i see it removable part so you can acces it. Only problem i see now is that one side is stronger then the other side. Would be best to weld the middle piece tube the bigger one with a curf, and the rest removable bit more work but i also believe would be safer so the frame thosen't bent over time to one side, i mean if it's a strong motor. or with inpact ect. Nice progress noneless and work skills!!

[@turkeytrac1]

I've heard a rumor that Tesla installs a sound system and card in their cars that are sold in Norway, so people hear them coming. Now, as a model railroaded I can tell you that for years they've been putting very small sound systems and sound cards in the model locos to better imitate real life with loco sounds. Maybe you could put a similar system in the bike, with corresponding on/off switch, you you know, for shots and giggles. Anyway, great build, looking forward to more vids, as well as finding out how far per charge you can ride.

[@dat16855]

i would put a navigation screen, like a gps

[@arcadesunday4592]

This build is looking amazing so far... Really take my hat off to Steevaan (and yourself) for the amazing fabrication work and look of the bike. I didn't like Harleys until now...

[@Helloverlord]

Its worth mentioning that 3ph motor could output 20kW of power for more than few seconds only if watercooled, if not it will out just 3-4kW continual... same thing will happen to 2. and 3. battery in sandwich if current draw exceeds certain treshold...

[@quietusplus1221]

16:58 That cut was amazing XD

[@NicholasSisti]

The last gauge should be a timer counting down to the completion of the electric C4 Corvette. 80s optimism delivered by future tech. The Harley project is cool, but the Corvette is rad.

[@Tripp55]

Rich, you and Stevón are an inspiration! I watch what you guys build and it really makes me want to get my creativity flowing and build something myself! You guys make it look so easy though I know it's not.

[@idunno2316]

Just watching the Harley Davidson EV journey all in one go because I was busy last year so finally catching up now and funny to see the Easter egg at 11:14 of the KZbin screenshot from your phone about the Bryan Adams summer of 69 lmao, I caught a very small glimpse and had to re-run the video back to catch it

[@iyakab777]

Not meaning to be the pulley guy but I would recommend a different and better throttle. The throttle I recommend is the surron throttle which is also a three wire throttle that I highly recommend because you can put your own grips on it unlike the plastic throttle.

[@abrahamgsolis]

I can’t believe I stayed through the entire wallet promo… 😂 good job Rick.

[@AlienLivesMatter]

Put the batteries in their tray upside down for a clean top side. Might help with air cooling also.

[@incywincy2k]

If they put them upside down all of the currents will leak out

[@benjibear8524]

Sooooo excited for this finale!!!! Go

[@ItsJusGeral]

6:30 👏 fire job on the frame

[@MrRickMeister]

Last gauge... A decibel meter. You could pull up next to straight piped Harleys and see just how loud they are.

[@tdwz1652]

first start just seems odd for an electric vehicle i dunno why lol

[@zaremol2779]

@@augustsawzak5401 as soon as electrons start to flow through the drive motors

[@s.kxx1956]

@@augustsawzak5401 that flash of arc when the battery is connected to the whole system

[@treju9499]

all the newborns will never know harley used to burn flammable liquids inside it

[@procatprocat9647]

You've clearly never done it !

[@TrojanLube69]

It would be the same feeling as first start for dryer machine after repair. You know it will start, but don’t know if it will catch on fire 30 seconds later. With a car at least you can spot fuel and oil leak before a fire 😂

[@robsidgor]

It's coming together nicely Instead of the rpm gauge it needs a vanity mirror for Lenda

[@young11984]

Look into tube couplers thats used on sideXsides cages for the protection cage mounts to the frame, has interlocking sections that bolt together for easy removal for access to maintenance items

[@ericsfishingadventures4433]

Love watching rich and Steven doing all that grinding! Lol

[@geoffreyveale7715]

I think the white stuff was the end result of all the grinding. LMAO.

[@josephkelly4893]

Beautiful design boys. Well done. Once again you have excelled

[@chronicawareness9986]

if you have time and $ anyone can make this... give me 3 billion and ill make a channel like this only ill hire better people and make like stuff

[@nicknomski8399]

@@chronicawareness9986 ironic username

[@letmelooktv]

I am sure with a hall effect sensor and a few bits and bobs (Arduino etc.) you could get your drive shaft rpm and display that on your rpm gauge. That would be cool.

[@timwegman5776]

It needs a big front rim and tire that is murdered out maybe a matt black finish and some stretched bags with a scraper rear end(lower fender) then this will look sick of and definitely some new technology in the dash like a touch screen to display the battery and destination information as well as some tunes maybe but definitely some new tech I mean after all it is an electric bike now!!!!

[@36thgallardo]

Can't wait for the next electric corvette update

[@mizaqenyad4269]

YEOO Steve with the Brand New T-shirt, I like it

[@Ingens_Scherz]

I think you should put a Geiger counter where the RPM gauge used to be. You never know when you're gonna need one and it's always best to be prepared for when TSHTF and TEOTWAWKI. It looks there might be room for a zombie activity monitor too.

[@AgentWest]

Since the original RPM gauge looks to be all digital, it should be easy to get it to work with the new electric motor. All that gauge is, is a pulse counter. Doubt it's an encoded signal like on newer vehicles. It might be as easy as putting a shunt into one of the motor phases and feeding the gauge straight off that. Of course it would be better if that control box had an RPM signal output.

[@Alan-ml8vq]

Amazing build, love the design Steve-on. Can’t wait to see what type of gauge your replace. I hope it’s utility based!

[@craigmcclure1355]

Stevon shirt game sightings of Brand New and CKY

[@giovannip.1433]

Does the throttle have an electronic limiter linked to the pressure exerted on the front wheel relative velocity to mitigate flip over when gunning it? The circular 'gauge' could be a circular LCD/LED display similar to those used on PC AIO coolers. Add a USB and clip and you have your sound system set for you in helmet speakers.

[@DizzyPanda]

Maybe for that side where you want to make the frame removable, you can use tube adaptors? I saw Fab Rats guys did that for their Toyota rockcravler's cage. IDK if I could post links here, but they posted that video: 2022-08-28 time stamp 4 : 44.

[@enterlematrix]

Rich and squad and the builders of dreams. I love this channel and all it's about, even the roasting of the commenters.

[@RandysRides]

This is a harley I'd actually want to own. ( and maybe the lowrider S ) lol

[@majcrash]

He'll probably get run off the road by some Hell's Angels.

[@benthecaptain7419]

Suggestion for mystery gauge could be Wh/mi, range estimator, battery/motor temp. Or "cool factor" gauge which basically tells you the volume of the on board stereo and or acceleration and or your BMI (more is better).

[@SamuelVella1995]

Looks so good! I dig the silver truss framework, if you decide to not paint it black. Really shows of the work that went into it.

[@trey1531]

You need to take this to a Harley dealership when it's done

[@ChibuikeUlasi]

Congratulations Rich! This is coming along well.

[@yaksauce]

Things I would include in this dream build: Reverse, Neutral/motor disengage (for hypermiling/coasting and prolonging battery life cycle or integrate super-capacitors into the system to achieve similar affect), a Parking Brake (absent on LiveWire and Zero bikes), relocate foot pedal for rear brake to a lever under left hand (like all bicycles and scooters), and an air bag suspension. But I have no money to offer you to make it all so-

[@tylerc161]

Put one of those old-school off roader terrain gauges in the open spot. The kind that have the ball inside liquid that act as a compass. Definitely would not bother with a GPS there since your head unit could take over that function much more practically.

[@nickldominator]

16:37 I'm a little confused, why would you have 4 individual gauges for the batteries? If the entire system runs at 72V, that means all of your 72V batteries are going to be paralleled & thus all the batteries will be at the same voltage (regardless of actual remaining capacity in each bank). To have this actually work the way you are wanting, you'd need individual current shunts on each of the battery banks prior to being joined together. That will allow you to actually measure how much energy has left each one of the batteries cumulatively (this is called coulomb counting). This is a pretty common feature baked into most smart BMSs now, but it looks like those packs you purchased probably don't feature such BMS that would allow you to precisely monitor the battery state. You could of course always retrofit a smart BMS into each bank, but that depends on your comfort level & how much effort you'd like to put into it.

[@DiscoFang]

For the same reason some stereos have flashing lights. Blingity bling bling heylookitme I'm so fancy.

[@thefinn0tube_]

Insanely cool Rich and Stephon 👍

[@imfloridano5448]

Stephon take that watch off ASAP around that high amperage!!! Safety first Stephon!!! Now back to the show stephon you are doing a stupendous job on this new project and Rich what can I say the dad who left us on the corner when we had to cross the street cause he wanted to drive his porsche🤣😂😂

[@Greg-om2hb]

“Electraglide in Blue” should be your inspiration for paint color.

[@rogerboone1609]

You guys are nuts!!! But lots of fun for me!!!

[@mr.dickbuttboss8838]

Wow an electric Harley that actually looks like a Harley... I'll be damned!

[@alargebeaver]

Put an air speed indicator in the dash!

[@smartersean]

Last gauge area should be a backup camera screen.

[@tdunn1907]

When Rich ran from the dough/biscuit can, comedic genius. They make me nervous too.

[@htownblue11]

Rich, I believe you may need a heavy duty 400Amp diode between the contactor/solenoid posts so as to avoid backfeed from motor to controller. I could be wrong but I use that exact solenoid on electric vehicle projects. Might end up saving your controller.

[@moestrei]

The controller supports regen braking.

[@xanthis5413]

For the Replacement Gage, not sure what to use as a Data source, but they have 4 inch circular displays, if you have a programmer friend, they could come up with some cool options.

[@RealAndySkibba]

Thumbscrew heads on the 3 frame bolts would be pretty handy. Or a pocket for the hex key.