Riden RD6012 DC Power Supply Module Set up and Test

[@cmalc8]

Nice to see 'my' Fluke 12 on your bench. Been 100% reliable for years. A great buy.

[@dieselphiend]

Had to get one of these as I'm regularly charging high voltage batteries, and this will allow me to set custom voltages on my batteries depending on needs. Just put it together yesterday. I didn't even bother testing the 70v supply- I just put everything together, plugged it in and it worked. I can't imagine what a similar specced unit from western manufacturer would cost. Probably at least $500.

[@geirendre]

Nice unit specially for the low price. I got one of these, managed to get it in february before the Corona lockdown. Got the control unit and the case. Buildt the powersupply out of an old transformer, and it's working great. You can program and store different voltage and current settings. The battery holds the memory for these presets.

[@kristiandawe85]

Very neat little power supply, I can see this being very useful for people who need something that cost effective, I kinda want one. You did an excellent job explaining how it works too 👍👍

[@einarht21]

Hello, you may type the desired voltage and current. Just press volts button, type let’s say “13.8” and hit enter. There is a case kit with fan, fuse, temperature for switching power supply and as an optional the switching power supply itself for this converter.

[@Elektronik-1]

The heat sink is quite small. What continuous power can the device deliver?

[@12voltvids]

12 amps. It is a buck converter not a linear supply. They don't produce a lot of heat like a linear and it is forced air cooled.

[@Elektronik-1]

@@12voltvids Amps are not power. Such a switching converter has an efficiency of typically 85%. At 30V and 10A, for example, this already results in 45W heat. This is too much for the small heat sink...

[@englishrupe01]

It will run the full amount....720W. This is a very well made supply from a good company. They have their ducks in a row, no problem.

[@hapskie]

Nice review. Would have been nice to also see: - if it could deliver 60V/12A safely without overheating or burning up - if it would regulate battery charging when the temp sensor was reporting high temp.

[@hermannschaefer4777]

Built mine some months ago, using an industrial grade power supply (350W 60V for stepper motors/CNC) that fit into the enclosure (you also should have bought!). Works fine and is still much cheaper than any other from a "known brand".

[@12voltvids]

This was a sample sent to evaluate. So far so good. Quite impressed.

[@rdtech9153]

hello, I see that in your video description, it is Banggood link, they are not going to sell the RD series power supplies any more after clear their warehouse stock,if you like, you can use our RD aliexpress official store

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

I have a smaller unit. The DP30V5A. Mine has been a good unit for the last 2 years. Only problem I had was, the main schottky diode burnt up, just 5 days after I had it. I botched a through hole schottky diode on to it & never had another problem. I think they make good products, it's just that the surface mount Shockey diodes are weak. If they happen to burn up, just replace them!

[@tenmillionvolts]

Label says 'power supply' but guess what it needs... a power supply. Thanks for calling it what it is, a regulator :)

[@alanarmstrong2323]

Thankyou so much for your valuable time!

[@reactormovie1529]

Awesome DC/DC converter ! Holy moly

[@cloud9photography126]

where is the output button for injecting voltage? for when you want to send volts into a circuit board

[@scotthenderson4376]

Can you get 60v amps out of it with a 24v 16 amp input? Looking for something to wake up a BMS and top balance using existing power supply

[@BoB4jjjjs]

Nice unit, shame they can't make everything like that. Nice project for bench power supply.

[@johncoops6897]

Why do you keep switching the load on and off to adjust Voltage and Current? The whole idea is to make those adjustments with the load switched on, so you can monitor the parameters WHILE you make the adjustment.

[@12voltvids]

I was showing the current limit trip. Just trying to find the trip point for cold filament. Remember incandescent light bulb draws much more current when the tungsten is cold. I wasn't turning it off. When I had current max limit set too low it tripped and turned off. I hit the button again to turn on again before the filament totally cooled down allowing it to stay on. It was more of playing with it to see how sensitive it was. Since the current limit is a hard switch off not current regulation as the other setting is, it shuts down. Now the current regulation could be used to limit in rush current, set that to the max that the lamp needs to operate and it will limit the current to that level as opposed to the OCP or OVP which shuts down if it exceeds setting.

[@johncoops6897]

@@12voltvids - I was referring to adjustments at *other* times. For example at 10:29 to 10;42 when you adjusted from 13.8v to 12v then upon switching on again showed that the HID headlamp was "Constant Power". So my point was that the Current and Voltage limits can be made dynamically, which is a great way to learn the characteristics of the connected device. For example, by slowly adjusting the voltage up and down, you can determine the dropout voltage of the HID ballast, rather than making multiple adjustments with a power cycle in between like you did from 9:38 onward.

[@CliveTrezona]

Looking forward to the next video when you build your own power supply.

[@12voltvids]

Some day. Not high on my list of priorities. A rainy day project.

[@cardanoada517]

You explain everything so clearly - awesome channel. Subbed

[@reminder_cor]

Nice 87.000 subscriptors right now haha. Its a nice device, i am thinking to buy one of this to ride out my faulty power supply!

[@Phanticall]

Do you still take handycams to be looked at ? I have a Sony handycam trv 260 that won’t play footage or record to a tape

[@pliedtka]

Hmm, it can take up 70V DC, I have a few big transformers from old AV receivers. I wonder if they have one with symmetric +/- power supply - it would make nice Lab PS.

[@banjoperator]

will be an interesting project indeed..im looking forward to that one not only as a bench top dc power supply but wondering how it would work in a solar setup im thinking of installing .. using the charger feature and the solar panel as the supply and lead acid batteries as the storage medium on cloudy days..

[@johncoops6897]

Since this is a "Buck" regulator, it can only supply up to a couple of volts lower than you input voltage. So if your solar batteries are 12V, the PSU output will be maximum about 10V. This is not the best unit to act as a charger, you should use a proper MPPT controller for charging the batteries.

[@fernandoscaff9975]

How about a friend, a question, will you know what audio outputs I can put on a receiver fisher RS-1015?

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

I really like this one. I wish they made it in Black!

[@zx8401ztv]

Thats one smart unit, i can see it being very handy :-D You can never have enough power supplys or meters. My only requirement is to turn down or change the pitch of the beeper, it would send me mad sorry madder :-D

[@rdtech9153]

the beeper can be turn off, and for now it has only one kind of pitch

[@DrHarryT]

@@rdtech9153 I saw another video where the RD6006 had a substantial ripple on the output. I was wondering if that had been resolved in the 6012 as I just purchased one of these units a few days ago.

[@rdtech9153]

@@DrHarryT ripple of RD6006 is 100mV VPP, and the ripple of RD6012 is 250mV VPP at 6A

[@DrHarryT]

@@rdtech9153 WOW 1/4 of a volt!!! What can be done to solve this?

[@AThreeDogNight]

A pretty nice unit to have. Now what you gonna make with it?

[@vadivelanellappan42]

I bought same. Anyone help me temperature sensor probe place where ? Cooling fan heat sink ? To identify which heat ?

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

I would like to see you build your power supply for this. The one I made for myself. goes to 30 volts. 5 amp. I'm using a power supply from a power chair. It has a toroidal Transformer with a full Bridge rectifier board & a 2000 uf 63 V. Capacitor on it. The power supply says it's 24 V. RMS. 3.33 amps. By DEWERT . , I thought it was perfect for the DP30V5A. I ended up burning up the surface mount Shockey diode in it. I replaced it with a through hole schottky diode, botched it. It's been working great ever since. I learned how to make it from watching you on your Channel. Thank you & keep up the good work!👍

[@geraldh.8047]

This is nice, but how do you supply the input power? Not many 60V/70V PSUs on the market 😢

[@englishrupe01]

Yep, there are plenty of them.....i should know! I have 6 i think, from about $20 up.

[@johncoops6897]

You supply the input power using a suitable PSU or transformer. Better to use a transformer plus rectifier and smoothing caps, since the Switch Mode power supplies have a lot of nose which gets superimposed onto the output of this controller. You can use any input voltage that you like, up to a MAX of 60-70V. If you use 12V supply, you get about 10V out, whist using 24V will allow you to output up to about 20V.

[@tmho7091]

Could somebody explain to me why it has the green output jack for charging purpose? The red output jack should be good for charging. What other functions that the green output jack can have for charging?

[@einarht21]

The green output is combined with an external temperature sensor to lower current when temperature is too high

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

4.3 V. On a 18650? I thought they were only supposed to have 4.2 max. I realize you were only doing a demonstration.

[@CotyRiddle]

depends on the chemistry

[@12voltvids]

Most of the cells I have charge to 4.2 or 4.3 on my dedicated charger. Depends on the brand.

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

@@CotyRiddle yes, some are less than 4.2 like lithium iron phosphate .but I believe, none are over 4.2.. If there is please send me a link showing me.

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

@@12voltvids ok. I never heard of ANY being 4.3. I've been buying them & using them in different projects for the last 6 years & using many different types of 18650s. My interest in them started when I gave up smoking & started vaping. ALL of my vaping products use 18650'S. I probably have over 100 of the batteries laying around & just recycled About 100. I've heard of less than 4.2 but never over!.

[@12voltvids]

@@ronniepirtlejr2606 How many of those green ones I showed in the video would you like to see. I have 4 of them right here now, and they are all fully charged, 4.31 volts.

[@84ohms8]

Will definitely get myself one

[@UniSoft2]

FYI: If anyone interested, you can find my custom firmware for RD6012. If you have any ideas, wishes, what to change or what to add in to the firmware, or found any bugs, just let me know. www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/ruideng-riden-rd6006-dc-power-supply/msg3227356/#msg3227356 monitor.net.ru/forum/threads/651114/post-6037216

[@jerryspann8713]

I bet you're seeing spots with those bright lights.

[@Alam.khan0088]

Hi sir , please can you advice me , Is it suitable for mobile servicing shop ? Can I use it for sort killer for mobile mother board ? because I have a mobile servicing shop . please write me details ,i will be helpful with best regards, khan

[@FindLiberty]

Nice. Double check all settings if charging Li-ion batteries. I'd put 'em in a metal box (.50 cal ammo can from Harbor Freight?) capable of containing a battery fire (especially if left charging unattended). Very thorough demo. Thank you.

[@12voltvids]

Li-po for sure. The standard 16550 types are pretty safe. They have internal fusing that kills them before they go up. That is what the temperature sensor is for. To shut down charging before they get to the explosive stage.

[@Darryl603]

@@12voltvids You can pre program the temp cut off value as well?

[@vk3hau]

the number keys are all wrong, 789 456 123 0. ? not a standard layout. e.g 123 456 789 .0

[@12voltvids]

Here is one of those moments to educate. A standard layout is 789 456 123 0. Every computer keyboard and calculator is laid out that way as are all scientific instruments. You are looking at a telephone keypad which is 123 456 789 *0#. Do you know why the telephone keypad is laid out that way? I all has to do with the way that push button phones evolved. They started (when automatic dialing was invented) as rotary dial phones. If you look at the keyboard you will also see letters. Starting with 2, there is ABC, 3 has DEF, 4 GHI, 5 JKL, 6 MNO, 7PRS, 8 TUV, 9 WXY. Note that I omitted Q and Z. There is a reason for this, and all the telephone workers that have been around a whle will know what I am talking about. In the early days of telephone dialing, each distric in a city had it's own central office. In Vancouver, ,where I am from we had central offices with names, and to this day the names have not changed. ALpine, FAirfax, MUtual, CAstle,TRinity ect. The Nxx (first 3 digits) of a 7 digit phone number was hard coded to the exchange. In the early days there was 5 digit dialing as well, I will go into that. (in some cases 4 digit) Each block of numbers went from 0000 to 9999. That means only 1000 possible phone numbers per block. So in the central office there was a pre selector, that went from 0 to 9. Now you have 10,000 possible numbers per central office. Each central office had a 2 digit office code, which were initially represented by the office name. Your phone nuber could be ALpine 5 9907 for example, or MUtual 8 2554.. To dial this number, you dialed the first 2 letters for the office followed by the switch number and then the line. ALpine is 25 then the next digit was the switch code 6, followed by the house number 9907. In the earlier days, when there were fewer than 1000 numbers in the office, you would just dial the office followed by the house code. (Those numbers BTW were real, the first was my wife's parents number when they first got a phone. I have that old ancient rotary dial phone here and it still works, and has the original number card with AL5-9907 printed in it from BC Tel) The second number was the old request line for 73 CKLG radio. Anyway, back to the keypad layout. Since the phone system had used letters going way back to the early days, to this day the letters are on the keypad. We use them now for things like name dialing, hence they added the Q and Z. To keep things simple, the numbers were arranged 1 2(abc) 3(def) ect on the phone keypad start at the top row. So the phone layout is actually NOT the correct one. Fire up the calculator app on your phone and you will see the correct layout, exactly as it is on this power supply and all standard computer keyboards.

[@vk3hau]

12voltvids Ok, fair enough, but I was looking at it from alarm key pads, I install security alarm systems and the key pads are the some as telephone key numbering . But hey, You know the saying for Standards is, there is no standard.

[@Darryl603]

@@12voltvids Nicely done, Dave! We had what they called a party line way back when and the phone had 4 different rings. Pretty crazy right. I could call around the neighborhood with 5 numbers. Bell Telephone. Thanks for taking the time to share...

[@johnb5519]

All that without reading the manual.

[@tirant_blanc]

1:03 noice

[@sficlassic]

Great review on a what seems to be a good product. Sorry to say I won't buy one.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

There is a good video done where somebody made a linear power supply to clean up the signal because it’s pretty dirty using a switching power supply. There’s a little dirtiness to it by the actual regulator in the head unit there but by using a linear it’s much cleaner. You tuber(Jerry walker) Watch his video there’s many others attempting to clean up the signal but it’s a very good unit. Probably will last longer and be better than the PEVONO PS305H That died after three months repaired and then died permanently after six months

[@victorde]

Jerry Walker RD6006 Linear kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGq8c6aBiLGkZpo