Can you Reef ALONE?

What is reefing? This video covers the basics of what is involved in reefing a mainsail, as well as tips on how to safely and easily carry out the operas while sailing in heavy weather.
We also talk about when to reef and most importantly, when to shake out a reef.
#reefing #howto #storm
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[@allynonderdonk7577]

Nobody else does these step by step videos Herb. Even the learn to sail videos on KZbin that I have seen are not so in depth, especially with the reasoning in the commentary. I suppose it takes a special group of people to sit through them, but I think that the real sailors out there really enjoy your work!!

[@RiggingDoctor]

What a nice comment! Thank you so much, Allyn!

[@richardbohlingsr3490]

Or you can go to sailing school and pay to learn them, if you go to a good school with good instructors.

[@akathesquid5794]

Nice walk-through. Was always taught/advised that with a loose-footed main you can tie your reefing lines only around the gathered sail foot - NEVER the boom. Then you get a really nice/neat foot, less chafe, no chance of gusts inflating your nice fold/tuck job and if you attempt a shake-out missing a reef tie no damage as the whole sail will try to ascend with little stress since your clew line is already loosened. You will notice this before any damage done. Looks very "seamanshiply" done this way.

[@dannyboyspace]

Agree. I have a loose-footed main and only tie the reefing lines around the excess sail, not the boom, to prevent potential ripping since those mid-sail cringles aren't reinforced.

[@wombatdk]

Very interesting tutorial, love it. Thank you. TBH we occasionally reefed too late... always sucked. Nowadays I'd probably reef earlier rather than later. Old age makes me prefer a boat that isn't heeled over too much... haha. Who cares if it takes longer to get somewhere.

[@florencedubost1999]

Two comments: 1) The clew should have been brought closer to the boom so as to get a flatter mainsail and less shaking on the reef hump. 2) Broad reach is for me not the best course. Close hauled sailing makes it easier for the mainsail to flap, and so to relieve tensions on the sail, thus making all of it easier (both pulling the sail down one reef and then cranking).

[@alanmctavish3628]

Simply stated; Well illustrated; No ego. Well done.

[@claasriese1036]

Thanks for making this video. My two cents worth. Never be lazy on a sail boat. Be vigilant, be conservative, be safe. Reef early. As you said, what do you have to loose other than a little speed if the reefing was not necessary.

[@nanoceramics2747]

Excellent!Excellent simple presentation.

[@ArturZagaj-Izraelita]

Straszne! Mżagiel dzonkowy z razji że ma nieprzymocowany bom- jest gorszy niż ten?

[@RiggingDoctor]

It’s reefing in the ocean. You do what works and not what’s pretty.

[@waytall9213]

Been sailing on and off for years, mostly on dinghies, and never had to put in a reef. Now sailing on a friend's cruiser and thought I should learn. Thanks for your nice, clear information!

[@sergeidolbin2775]

Thank you for bringing up this important topic. Out of all options I've tried, I stick to heaving-to any time I need to reef, for the following points: -the main is blanketed by backed genoa allowing to mostly avoid flapping -after reef is in, I drop my genoa across the deck and hoist a properly sized staysail on a new tack -while hove-to on a starboard tack you can take as much time as needed without worrying about traffic, like SF Bay for example -while hove-to, the main sail can be trimmed in if any issue in the clew area arises, I doubt that it can be done on a broad reach as easily -it can be easily done even if your reefing is late. Fair winds to all ⛵️

[@RiggingDoctor]

These are good points! On the ocean with everything set perfectly on the wind steering, I didn’t want to change a thing about course so I would raise and lower sails on a broad reach. If I was tightening the clew and it was too much to handle on the winch, it simply meant to me that I needed to do an additional reef (say go from 1st to 2nd becomes 1st to 3rd). When the sail is loaded as you are reefing, you will know instantly if you have reefed enough. This is great and all when you are all alone in the middle of the ocean with tons of waterway ahead of you. In a crowded harbor or bay situation, heaving to is definitely the way to go. It stops the boat, let’s you get everything setup the way you want it, then you can head off again. I like the way you do things!

[@rickistephenson4168]

I have a C&C 30. I've never been on a boat that goes hove-to so easily. Once the foresail is back winded, it hardly matters what the mainsail tension is. The funny thing is that she'll never drop below 1-2 knots of forward motion, no matter what I do. Just enough for stability from motion across the keel, but still very forgiving about the rudder position. Sometimes I think only sailors understand the love I feel for my boat.

[@060388gm]

Great tutorial, not to be too critical but the purchase point on your boom for the reefing clew needs to be addressed The reefing line should pull down as it pulls aft.

[@ratusbagus]

Herb, i thought this too. Maybe just an artifactual incident that happened just for this video. But the end of the pennant thats made off to the boom should be directly south of it's cringle so that the clew is pulled both down as well as outhauled by the clew line. If it is just tied around the boom it will slide to it's comfort zone which is the shortest distance between cringle and boom. I suspect a year on, that's where you'll find it!

[@danijelkurincic]

As mentioned below, the clew of the main should be much closer to the boom - - says the books at least. This makes the foot and the sail flat, which is what you need in heavy winds. Is there a reason why you didn't fix this?

[@RiggingDoctor]

The same way you play with the outhaul to power the sail, having some belly in the smaller sail helps maintain the power and drive while the lower CE reduces heeling. While sailing on a broad reach, having some belly is advantageous.

[@obiwanfisher537]

Fantastic explanation and good insight, I also love you going away from the book and throw on actual experience. So I dont have to make the mistakes you did.

[@gertsy2000]

Great pragmatic directions, common sense, and caution first instructions. That broad reach vs into the wind call is a clear winner.

[@stevenfischer8447]

Thanks

[@dannyboyspace]

Great video! We teach to reef on a close reach (sailing on the jib, with mainsail luffing) or while hove-to. We don't teach doing it on a broad reach, and in fact I've never tried it on a broad reach.... I would have thought there'd be too much pressure on the sail to get it down (unless you're reefing super early before the wind picks up much.... which would be smart anyway!). Maybe I'll try sometime.

[@RiggingDoctor]

I usually do it way before it hits, when the clouds start coming over the horizon. My goal is to be reefed down and back in the cockpit before it strikes! We have had those “oh crap” times when it caught us off guard and I had to reef in really nasty conditions. Having the boom eased out so far actually made it easier to get the clew in tight. It also lets you know if the reef you are doing is going to be enough; if it’s too hard to crank in, maybe do another reef more! As for pulling the luff down, we have a Tides Marine Track and it makes the sail slide up or down with ease, even in a really strong blow!

[@jonny-dn]

Interesting idea. I don't think it would work with our fully battened main. Too much pressure on the cars. Heaving to works for me but does mean I have to "stop" and sometimes she's a bit reluctant to heave to properly.

[@brianhennessy5166]

Thank you! I am a novice sailor, and found your instruction on reefing better than others. Much appreciated.

[@markthomasson5077]

Of course not many boats have a winch on the boom. My reef line come through the boom and are tightened by hand. If you raise the boom on the topping lift before pulling them in, when the boom drops they tighten. I like to tidy the loose sail, yes I ripped a tie point. In future I shall change to elastic cord. Best is to have a short pennant with eyes each end,then tie the elastic cord to that. Saves those untidy lines hanging all over the sail.

[@seanflanagan2441]

GREAT tutorial! (Oowee, getting addicted to these!)Off topic: since you're concerned about lazy reef lines (and everybody should be), why no lazy jacks - especially important when trying to flake a mainsail in conditions?

[@RiggingDoctor]

We had them but they died (20+ years old) on the way to Bermuda. I’m going to be making new ones out of dyneema before we leave the Azores.

[@mortpacker8882]

Very clear on when and what has to be done for reefing. Thanks a million.

[@MrShankwheat]

I like the tip on sailing a broad reach to put in the reef. I've always pointed upwind and gotten flogged but your suggestion makes more sense.

[@RiggingDoctor]

Everything stays stationary while you work and the boat continues to make way while maintaining stability. Naturally, this needs lots of seaway to perform as no one is steering and the boat is sailing forward while you are at the mast reefing.

[@SOLDOZER]

Isnt your clew purchase point supposed to be under the tack point?

[@RiggingDoctor]

It needs to be aft of the clew position to pull the sail down and back. If it only pulled down, the sail would be too full and therefore full of power. Pulling it aft flattens the foot and further de powers the sail, giving you a smaller and less powerful sail as wind speeds build.

[@mskogly]

What kind of sails do you have? Love the color. Looks like the old way of treating sails using bark.

[@RiggingDoctor]

It’s called Tanbark! It’s regular Dacron sail but it is available in that color if you insist on it (the sailmaker really wants you to get plain white for some reason)

[@Kevin_Reems]

Great explanation! That said, the stuff sliding around the bottom of the screen is Highly distracting from an educational video. Please save that stuff for the end.

[@feedyourhead7464]

Thanks! Love learning from others experience. Much appreciated.

[@davidmcd8400]

If you are thinking about reefing it is already to late . Reef early and reef deep .

[@ianrees3231]

single line reefing cant go wrong

[@michaelmurphy4360]

Again thank you brother.

[@johnmoore3859]

Thank you for making this video on "reefing". Best I have found on YT. Simple, clear and to the point

[@pateallan7764]

If I had the chance to reef that would be great. ICW traveling isnt what the doctor ordered. In Charleston, it looks like a wagon train of sailboats heading south for the winter. I hear offshore is pretty bad this week. Maybe next year I'll try to got to the Islands. At least yall are kicking butt out there. Great video too. Although you were better in person. Remember ? I feel lucky.

[@karlholmgren4263]

Another reefing video recorded in conditions that don't require reefing. Makes you wonder if these guys would know how to do it in real conditions at all.

[@RiggingDoctor]

In real conditions you should have already reefed. The reason reefing videos are done in conditions that don’t require reefing is because the people who know how to reef do so before the winds arrive. Reefing in a storm demonstrates a lack of preparedness and is the mark of an inexperienced sailor. If you see someone reefing in conditions that require it, I would avoid learning from them as they are reactionary sailors as opposed to proactive sailors.

[@JamesClark-cg1qk]

mainsail cars with ball bearings, lazy jacks and a stack-pack is the way to go...

[@RiggingDoctor]

My only gripe with the stack pack is you don’t have easy access to your reefing lines to make sure that nothing is jammed or stuck. They are great otherwise and I love the versatility of them, I just don’t like troubleshooting the reefing lines with them because it always ends up being something simple where a line is hockled on a strap and won’t pull through.

[@DaveWatts_ejectamenta]

Your safety line is really attached to a bad point, if you fall you’ll get dragged along the side of the boat, better to clip it nearer to the mast IMO

[@RiggingDoctor]

With the 6 foot tether, any point will have me dragging behind the boat. The idea is to clip in on the high side so if I fall, I fall on the deck and not fall off the lower lee rail. Falling off the windward side is a challenge with the chest high lifeline in place.

[@collinvascianna8811]

Nice one man I see you do not use a jammer ether ok old school. I’ll like to see how you do lazy man sailing please. Am no short watching your videos man I want to learn more blessings.

[@RiggingDoctor]

Our style is just what needs to happen to get us to the other side of the ocean safely. Not interested in peak speed, just comfort ⛵️

[@stephenburnage7687]

I note that both your (mast mounted) main halyard winch and your (boom mounted) reefing winch are on the port side. Some years ago a rigger moved my main halyard from starboard to portside but left my reefing winch mid boom on the starboard side. Now that i am full time cruising i wanted to change my reefing winch to a ST and to move it closer to the mast (maybe with a three way brake) but do you believe there is an argument for also moving it over to the port side of the boom?

[@RiggingDoctor]

The standard is for the main halyard to be on the starboard side and the job on the port. That said, this boat was setup fully in the port side so that is where I kept it. I do think that halyard and reefing winch should be in the same side so you can easily operate both of them on a specific tack. We try to always reef on port tack because it is a royal pain to reef on starboard tack!

[@stephenburnage7687]

@@RiggingDoctor interesting. Yes, both halyard and reefing used to be on the same side (starboard), so following this ecchsnge i will now bring the reefing over too. I can give you another reason. We carry a dingy and seven fuel cans up front, all in a 34 ft boat, so we try to make one side less clutured than the other. In future that will be our port side too !

[@Servant_of_Christ]

It's simple, I just turn the boom on the old Vega, very simple!

[@RiggingDoctor]

😎

[@suedyer5279]

Why not have a fourth reef point to alleviate having to hoist a trysail especially for single handing?

[@RiggingDoctor]

The trysail is about the size of the third reef. The big issue is if you rip your sail in a storm, when the storm passes you have a rip in the top of your main (so you are screwed). If you rip your trysail, you just raise the main that is still intact after the storm.

[@aluminiumsloep]

That's why i guess lazy jacks come in handy..

[@RiggingDoctor]

Yes sir! Mine died before I made this crossing but when I got to Europe and made new ones, I was so happy to have them again!

[@naps3386]

What keeps the boom from falling when you release the halyard?

[@RiggingDoctor]

It’s attached to the mast with a gooseneck fitting and the end is held up by the topping lift.

[@didierpotolos3319]

Very nice!

[@bobgaysummerland]

Reef early reef often. Great video

[@TheInsultInvestor]

u rule

[@sailingAlpa42]

you are skilled talker but not a skilled sailor

[@RiggingDoctor]

Having looked at your videos, I highly recommend that you watch more of ours and apply what you learn. It is important for your safety!

[@mickey1299]

I'm used to roller reefing , but my next boat is slab , so i've got a question , well actually two . The downhaul on the clew , why is the block mounted on the boom track , not closer to the clew of the sail . Surely that would bring the sail down more tidy , and tighten the foot up more , if the angle was increased ? and secondly , does no one secure the reefed foot under the boom anymore ? . I can see the reefing eyelets , but have yet to see anyone actually use them .

[@RiggingDoctor]

1. Too far aft and it doesn’t pull down enough. So you scoot it forward and play with it until it pulls down and back correctly. 2. I usually have lazy jacks and don’t mess with tying them. The holes are there but I never put in the lines because if I forget to untie one, it rips the sail. So I don’t untie any and just put a sail tie on at the second reef. If it gets to 3rd reef time, I drop the whole thing and put up the trysail.

[@mickey1299]

@@RiggingDoctor Okay i can see what your saying . so you would adjust it , just you didn't or need to in this video , yeah . Just as a matter of interest , what in your mind is the optimum angle , to get the clew of the sail to set correctly . So can i take it , you would tie the sail if you didn't have lazy jacks .

[@RiggingDoctor]

My lazy jacks died and I haven’t replaced them yet. It’s been about 2000 miles and no lazy jacks and no tying. I am going to replace the lazy jacks soon though :) My optimum position is about 2 feet behind the clew of the reef point. As it comes down it pulls down well, then it shifts to pulling aft to flatten out the foot. If I’m going upwind, I will flatten the foot out all the way to de power the sail. If I’m going downwind I will keep it with a full belly (like in the video) so that we still have plenty of power to keep our speed.

[@mickey1299]

@@RiggingDoctor Thanks my friend that is really helpful . I've watched a couple of vid's on slab reefing , but have yet to see anyone secure the foot . On my present boat , i found out the hard way that boom roller reefing , and kicking strap don't mix . You either don't reef or don't use a kicker , but as my boat is a three quarter ton racer , and not suitable for deep water work anyway , it's never being a problem . The sail won't set properly either , so i lose drive as well . My next boat will be used offshore , and i'm studying a new system , so i hope you can understand why i asked . Thank you Doc .

[@svallegro9851]

great video! Thanks

[@cigarmann]

For the really lazy in mast or roller furler......at my age i may opt for the latter......

[@SOLDOZER]

Thats fine if you're not a real sailor.

[@geraldsobel3470]

Thanks for your concise, simple explanation. Usually I'll either reef before leaving the dock....easy, or, when THE SHIT HITS THE FAN AND IT'S A CHINESE FIRE DRILL. Thanks so MUCH!!

[@floydmusicandnature8538]

I have done it so many times in a smaller boat

[@RiggingDoctor]

The concept is the same but the forces are higher

[@AXISMEDIATV]

Was out in 11 knots this weekend then it suddenly kicked up to 22. Felt very overpowerd so put in a reef . Was tricky since I'm solo but this little reminder vid helped. Thanks!

[@markmahan6768]

Very helpful!

[@ricardolemus1994]

Thank you. Well done and explained for beginners. I always rented for two-three hours sailing but owning a boat now I should learn how and when to reef.

[@ratusbagus]

Hey Herb, i suppose i should know but .... where is your accent from. It sits well with me. easy to listen to. Mine is Cockney.

[@RiggingDoctor]

I’m from Puerto Rico, but no one can seem to place my accent, not even Puerto Rican’s! We are currently on an English boat and I have learned to understand the cockney accent 🇬🇧

[@RiggingDoctor]

One of our friends (the one we are passengers on) is from Cornwall, the other friend (buddy boat) is from Yorkshire.

[@ratusbagus]

@@RiggingDoctor would you adam it, you having a laugh? is the trouble with you? You'll be getting a right butchers and a load of rabbit for calling her that. She'll be having a dicky bird in your bottle of beer. Still off for a ruby via the cabin cruiser. Down a couple of ponies you'll feel a bit Brian Clough.

[@ratusbagus]

@@RiggingDoctor See if the agree with this statement.... Both of those places are foreign countries.

[@xiav2008]

good stuff, I'm going to review with my kid before our next passage, Key Largo to St Pete, the downwind style was tough on the older roller furling, it seems good for the slab, thanks

[@aluminiumsloep]

30 knts wind this is?

[@RiggingDoctor]

When sailing downwind, yes. This is pretty common conditions on the trade routes. Lots of wind at your back and surfing through the waves. It’s great!

[@tlperdue99]

Great Video. I am impressed with you Herbie and, of course, Maddie as well. Great info for those who want to learn sailing.

[@burnsnight1]

Or just use a Junk Rig.

[@RiggingDoctor]

I don’t know why they aren’t more common, they are so easy to manage!

[@kptheanimal6909]

How tight is tight?

[@RiggingDoctor]

It depends on the wind. You want it tight enough that nothing is flapping or vibrating. If you have 20 knots of wind, it won’t be as tight as if you have 50 knots of wind!

[@frankstocker5475]

Nice video well explained. I have a couple of points. When reefing especially in the dark when the wind gets up & alone the less time spent at the mast the better. I don't use a pennant it takes too long to tie, I have a down-hall line that is attached to a pad eye on the mast that goes up & through the tack and then down to a winch. It takes about 30 seconds to do. With this system, I can control the luff tension. For the outhaul I control mine from the cockpit it comes out of the boom up through the cringle then down to a pre-set mark on the boom & around the boom finishing off with a bowline. This way when putting in the reef the boom is very high & in line with the foot of the sail. The reef line gives even tension on the foot & leach. The reason for this is when going beam to the wind & the boat is leaning over it keeps the boom out of the water. Like you, I don't have reef lines i have a very short lazy bag that I only use on the leeward side when reefing. Normally it takes me about 3 to 5 minutes depending on the sea state. Regards, Frank.

[@RiggingDoctor]

I actually switched from a lanyard that I tied to a soft shackle to make it faster. Good points!

[@GaryMCurran]

For someone who is just starting to watch videos on sailing, there is so much to learn about all aspects of sailing. This was a really informative video on reefing, what it is, how to do it, and when to do it. Thank you!

[@flydr2]

Thank you

[@RiggingDoctor]

You're welcome

[@sailor-rick]

Great vid. At around 07:55 is where a paranoid sailor might, since you're right there anyway, also tie a safety line from the boom to the leech reef cringle, just in case the reefing line breaks. Make sure it's a quick release slip-knot.

[@RiggingDoctor]

That’s a good backup! Our reef line is technora so I’m not worried about it snapping under these loads, but if you have a questionable line in a nasty blow, extra safety is always a good idea!

[@traveltoonsbymp]

Very helpful, thank you!

[@dr123hall]

Best reefing point to point instruction / sail dynamics I have seen on ‘Tube. Thank you very much for your work!

[@RiggingDoctor]

Thank you for the compliment!

[@johnwalker6711]

Well explained mate very interesting way to avoid flogging main sail while reefing i always thought would be too much pressure on a beam reach

[@RiggingDoctor]

You do need a good low friction slide system for the mainsail track or they slides will bind up. We have a tides marine system and it’s worked great for many years.

[@aryaasailing]

Thank you very much.

[@richardbohlingsr3490]

I totally agree about getting reefed down before you need to, rather than after you realize you should have done it. That's where experience really guides you. The bow is always more violent from weather and water than the stern. The exception would be rogue waves. One thing I never see you carry is a belt knife when your on deck. A good sharp 5" straight blade knife in a kyvek sheath with a snap is good to have with you at all times. You never have time to go get it when the need arises.

[@RiggingDoctor]

I have a Rigging knife but it lives inside. I prefer to untie or unravel because then it’s not destroyed. But if needed, I would cut something free.

[@SOLDOZER]

In Aton Voyages Tides Marine Mainsail Track install and sea trial video, he tightens the clew first.

[@RiggingDoctor]

With a horn you can, but when you tie the tack, the luff has to be tightened before the clue or you won’t be able to keep the tension off the first luff.

[@nledelnr]

Thanks for the clear instructional video. Well done.

[@RiggingDoctor]

You are very welcome!

[@williamduke3739]

Excellent information

[@SailingMalie]

Nice tutorial Herbbie.

[@daneulekowski929]

Great video, just getting interested in buying a boat and your videos are teaching me a ton. Thanks

[@RiggingDoctor]

Best of luck on your search! Hope we can inspire you to enter into this exciting lifestyle :)

[@SOLDOZER]

Ive always wondered, could you just simply lower the main and tie a piece if rope through the reef points to the boom? It may not be perfect. but should work Id think? I have an Island Packet 29 and am surprised at how small the shackle is that connects the tack of the sail to the gooseneck. I often think "Id trust a piece of rope more than that"

[@RiggingDoctor]

Especially if that piece of rope is Dyneema!

[@SOLDOZER]

@@RiggingDoctor What knot would I use to try to tie the sail reef points to the boom? (Im terrible at knowing about knots). I might keep this idea in my back pocket.

[@seanfarrell5341]

Good really good

[@jackrabbit5047]

Hey, I've been sailing for years and learned something new. Great vid! Please keep 'em coming, as we poor northern sailors have put our babies away and are now consigned to the status of armchair sailors for the next (loooong) while. Favour to ask: someday could you make a vid on how you deal with lazyjacks, especially when hoisting the main - I'm new to them, and while I really appreciate their value when lowering the sail, I find them exceedingly frustrating when the battens get caught during hoisting. I know people say you should move them to the mast once your sail is done, but I'd like to see how others set things up to do this efficiently.

[@RiggingDoctor]

Thanks for the video suggestion. The way I got rid of “battens getting fouled” is I switched to a battenless main. If you don’t pull them forward, they tend to foul on the battens. I’m going to rebuild our lazy jack out of dyneema and I’m going to make it in a system that is easy to bring forward to the main. Stay tuned for that how to video in the near future!

[@terrencebradley5417]

@@RiggingDoctor I rigged my battens so that they go forward to the main when not in use. I leave them on the main until I decide to lower the main and then deploy them. works for me then only thing I intend to change is I want to install a slightly heavier line. My son is bugging me to let him make a stack pack for the main.

[@josephlai9759]

Thank you for another interesting video. With regards to running the leech reefing line through the leech cringle, what have your experience been? Any chaffing of the sail around the cringle? Some skippers have resorted to attaching low friction ring pendent there.

[@RiggingDoctor]

The low friction rings are a great addition but not necessary. The cringle itself is stainless steel and very low friction, but the leech of the sail does chafe on the reef line and every few years I need to repair it. We have sailed about 8,000nm since the last repair and it’s still fine, so I don’t think it’s a huge issue. It’s not perfect but it’s also not a problem.

[@josephlai9759]

@@RiggingDoctor Thank you.

[@joeblow1942]

Do you use a preventer when reefing the main?

[@RiggingDoctor]

Nope, we just have the wind steering set and holding us at a steady angle to the wind. I prefer a broad reach but a beam reach will also work as well.

[@tronalpha9137]

I thought hove to is a storm tactic to slow down the boat and reduce the lomping as the boat is no longer going forward to weather, thereby it stables the deck alowing the reefing to be carried out safly as is now drifting with the wind. otherwise why eles is the tecneqiue there for. Gerard.

[@RiggingDoctor]

The technique is also used for calming seas that are too tall and dangerous to sail in. If you reef before the storm, you will be reefing in calmer weather. If you wait for the storm to hit, it will be dangerous to go on deck and therefore you will need to heave to in order to put a reef in safely. I like to put in a reef before it gets bad and wait until it is very nice to shake out the reef. Out in the ocean, the only time I had to heave to was when the winds got above 60 knots. There sailing under Reefed sails was just not safe anymore so we stopped until it passed.

[@SOLDOZER]

Hove to is away to park the boat so you can dump while singled handed and no auto pilot.

[@markfishersolosailing7033]

You forgot to warn people to let off the Vang and the way you tied it will fill a nice big bag of water hanging from the boom.

[@RiggingDoctor]

Don’t have a vang to keep life simple, but if you have a vang then definitely you would need to release it so the boom could raise up to meet the reefed foot.

[@RiggingDoctor]

If your heeling far enough that the boom is going in, it’s time to put in another reef 😂

[@AthelstanEngland]

Thanks for the info here. If you are solo how do you ensure you stay on a broad reach and don't get an accidental gybe when there is no one on the tiller/helm. Thanks

[@RiggingDoctor]

Windsteering. I trust it with my life! It keeps the boat on an exact course to the wind. If the wind shifts, the boat will change course to keep the wind at the same angle whereas an electric autopilot set to a magnetic heading would be at risk of an accidental jibe.

[@AthelstanEngland]

@@RiggingDoctor thanks! So something like a Hasler or Hydrovane self steering gear?

[@clidiere]

You could use a Dyneema shackle for your tack. Faster, and very strong.

[@RiggingDoctor]

Yes, a soft shackle would also work. I like the long line to use the mechanical advantage to get the tack into place. A soft shackle is faster than tying but I fear it might be hard to get the tack to it in some weather situations.

[@clidiere]

@@RiggingDoctor You're right about the bad weather. I've had trouble with large and short soft tackles. It's hit or miss. If you're lucky you get the tack reefed in 2 seconds. The answer is perhaps to have a thinner and longer shackle that would pass 3 times in the eye. You'd keep the purchase advantage.

[@johnmcgrew7128]

Can't see anything

[@RiggingDoctor]

This video shows the process of putting in a reef from the perspective of the changes that occur to the sail. Each sailboat has their own specific method of actually doing the reef, some have hooks, cleats, clutches, straps, knots, etc. While the exact specifics of each boat are different, the end result is the same effect on the mainsail. That is why I chose that camera angle for this video. You can see what I’m doing as well as why I’m doing it and what outcome occurs because of it.

[@nomadequipment2177]

Thanks! 🙂👍🏻

[@RiggingDoctor]

👍

[@tronalpha9137]

G'day. I am livaboard sailor and i like to heave to. Its not everyones idear of reefing however i find it stables the boat more as the boat slows down it becomes easyer to work on as theres not as much pressure on the mainsail. and when i have to, i know how to heave to. Would you give it a go at some time to compare the differance?. Gerard.

[@RiggingDoctor]

Do you mean to do a comparison of reefing while underway vs reefing while hove to?

[@tronalpha9137]

@@RiggingDoctorI useully hove to then reef down the main sail. in your video you go on an beam reach and thats were i would like you do a comparission while underway, to see whitch one is eser. Gerard.

[@RiggingDoctor]

In tight quarters I do heave to then reef that way we don’t run into a shore or shoal. Out in the ocean, there is nothing to bump into :) The force on the sail is about the same in either situation. Once the halyard is released, the sail begins to spill its wind and the pressure is off. As you pull the sail down, the pressure on the sail decreases even further. The nice thing about reefing under way is you know if you are reefing enough. If there is too much pressure on the sail to crank the clew in, then maybe you need to put in one more reef at that moment. The other reason I reef underway is then we don’t have to fiddle with the wind steering. Getting it absolutely perfect usually involves a few adjustments and when the wind is picking up I would rather not have to work on it as well. Keeping the course means that we can set the sails for that heading and wind conditions until they are perfect and then we continue on.

[@RiggingDoctor]

To answer your question in a more concise form: The force on the sail is about the same hove to Vs. underway. While hove to, the main only has a lot of power when swinging aft in its drifting arc, this then drives it forward until it looses power again. Most of the time, the pressure on the sail is very low and easily managed. While underway, there is pressure on the sail but as you go pulling the sail down the pressure decreases because less sail is up. When you are finally putting the reef in, there is very little force on the sail.

[@tronalpha9137]

@@RiggingDoctor I currrently live on an small catamaran and when i go for a sail i an ts 1000 raymarine tillerpilot to help me steer the boat on course. as usully i am single handed. I will give it a go on a beam reach and see if theres much diffrence myself. just reffittng the boat out so i wont be sailing for a while. Gerard.

[@jasonfrodoman1316]

I have a question about tack horns please. I notice most have a horn on each side of the boom. Is this so you put hook the tack for the 1st reef on one horn and the 2nd reef on the other horn. Or can you hook both on to the same horn. I hope you follow what I mean. Also, do you leave the first reef setup in place during the second reef ? Or do you release the first reef before going to the second reef ? I guess what I mean is if you released reef two and pulled up the halyard would you just return to the first reef because its still set in place ? Hope my questions make sense. Thank you.

[@RiggingDoctor]

With a horn setup, you can do exactly what you said. Have the first reef on one horn and then reef down again on the other horn. Releasing the second reef would now make the sail reefed to the first reef point. The main reason for the two horns is so that you can put the reef cringle onto the horn on either tack. It doesn’t matter which side you are standing on or which tack you are on because you just slip the ring over the horn. While the tack horn allows you to keep the first reef in place, the clew doesn’t always let you do that. On most boats the reef clew line goes to a cleat and winch, so in clearing the first reef line to make way for the second reef line, you effectively removed the first reef. Keeping it on the horn is just a matter of doing less while you are up there so you can get back to the cockpit quicker!

[@jasonfrodoman1316]

@@RiggingDoctor thanks for the reply. I'm trying to redo the rigging on an older boat from scratch. I'm having a few issues with setting up the outhaul and the reefing system because I'm now working with a boom that has no fittings on it. Blank canvas.

[@jasonfrodoman1316]

@@RiggingDoctor thinking about your statement regarding the horns. If I go ahead and install a horn on each side of the boom, would it then make sense to have the rigging for reef #1 on one side of the boom, and the rigging for reef #2 on the opposite side ? My halyards are on winches at the boom same as your video. I don't have winches on the boom. Not sure if I need n boom winches if I can get enough purchase by using a couple of blocks on each reefing line ? If I did get a couple of winches, they would need to have a small diameter base i think.

[@RiggingDoctor]

If you have a blank canvas, I would install a track on the side of the boom like I have. It lets you slide the reefing cheek block fore or aft as needed to get the position perfect. Also, if you ever change sails in the future, you can just slide the cars to be in the new perfect position. My clew winch is only a 16, it has a base that’s only about 4 inches in diameter.

[@RiggingDoctor]

I prefer to have the reef lines for the clew all be on the same side as the mainsail halyard winch so that you can easily operate both things from the same side of the sail. Otherwise, one reef will be easy to do because the reef line is on the same side as the winch while the other reef will be on the opposite side. Hope this helps!

[@FishAdvisor]

Great video, simple and concise! Thanks

[@RustyKnorr]

A very poor tutorial. “Up to 30 knots”?! Not a single whitecap visible. More like 10 knots. Heave-to to reef so the boat is under better control. Harness clipped to the shroud?! That reef is sloppy with the clew much too loose. Tie in your bunt lines after the first reef! If you can’t remember to untie the reef when shaking it out you shouldn’t be teaching how to reef in the first place. Tie down the clew with another line to keep it snug to the boom. So many things wrong here. 🤦‍♂️

[@RiggingDoctor]

And yet this method has safely crossed the Atlantic Ocean twice while maintaining course. Heaving to would mean stopping the boat in these seas and then having to set it again. This method simply requires you to go up and adjust the size of the sail. As for the wind conditions, this was filled with a gopro. To see what these same waves look like with a better camera, check out these episodes: kzbin.info/aero/PLlDgR504BxwlkIA1ulAFhL5MXqJ1pJI_q As for forgetting to untie the reef lines, I understand your point and that is a valid point if you are coastal sailing and well rested. When you are only sleeping for 3 hours at a time because you are doing watch shifts for almost a month, you will forget some basic stuff and making it fool proof means that you won’t make a big problem for yourself in the middle of the ocean. The harness is clipped to the windward chest high lifeline, then to the shroud on the windward side because they are very strong attachment points and if you fall, you will fall towards the leeward deck, which still has you on the boat. Clipping in on the leeward side would let you fall into the water which would be the end for that sailor as they would be dragged and drowned. As for the clew, it is sloppy, but it gets the job done. When on a close reach, you want the clew close to the boom and the foot flat. When on a broad reach, do you really want the same? A smaller sail makes less power, and a fuller sail makes more power. I trim the clew in until it has the shape of sail that I would want for that point of sail. I understand your concern if you are sailing on many different courses as would be the case when sailing inshore, but on the ocean, you will hold the same exact course for weeks. Tying a line through the clew to keep it close to the boom is a very good tactic when your reef lines all lead to the end of the boom as there is no way to get enough down pull at that angle, but our cheek blocks are in the correct position to provide downward and outward pull, so that additional control line for sail shape is not necessary. Inshore sailing has lots of people watching you so you should strive to keep your boat looking ship shape as you will be judged harshly by your peers. Offshore, no one is watching (unless you film it) and you do what works, not what is pretty. The longer you are dangling from the end of the boom to tie a pretty bow, the greater the risk of falling in. This method is a “quick and dirty, get done what needs to be done, and get back to the helm” system. I have reefed my headsail and left the foot completely free because I would get to that later as I had other jobs that were critical to the weather conditions. I didn’t have the time to play with reef lines and neatly roll the foot of the reefed headsail up! I had other sails to reef as well. Once everything is settled and under control, tiding up can commence, but not until the important stuff has all been completed. If you ever dare to venture out offshore, I hope you remember this video so you don’t waste your precious energy on needless frivolity and remember what is important to accomplish in an ocean storm so that you don’t risk your life any further than it needs to be risked. Fair winds and following seas! Herby

[@RiggingDoctor]

As for “up to 30 knots of wind” that’s because in winds above 30 knots I put up the trysail, as you will see when we were crossing the Atlantic from Africa to South America. I do not remember the wind speed in this video as this was from our first transatlantic voyage, but if they were at 30 knots, I would have been 3rd reef or trysail. Happy sailing and good luck out there!

[@bobcornwell403]

An excellent explanation! Completely different from how I was instructed. Time to reef is when you first get nervous about the conditions. The 10 ft scow I'm building has a sail designed to be easier to reef. It has a single boomlet and a single reef point, which subtracts about half the sail area. It also has lazy jacks. The boomlet is lowered onto the boom.. then the reefing line is tightened to hold the boomlet to the boom. It's an experimental system that requires no specialized hardware. I can't wait to try it.

[@RiggingDoctor]

It sounds like a great solution to making reefing easier!

[@Josef_R]

Now show us your expertise in MOB with your outboard floppy jackline tied to a shroud and your 10' harness. To properly demonstrate this, you will need to throw yourself overboard in heavy seas, knocking yourself unconscious. Then have Maddie show us the rescue. Anything less than this is not practical and therefore pointless.

[@RiggingDoctor]

That was our chest high lifeline. It’s made out of dyneema and has a breaking strength of 10,000 pounds. I always clip in on the high side so if I fall, I’m still on the boat with my 6 foot tether.

[@Josef_R]

Yes, I know dyneema is strong, that has nothing to do with what I said. So your tether is only 6'? It looks longer. If you go overboard with a 6' tether on the outside of the boat, how are you still on the boat? You're outside the boat by 6'. You're also unconscious, very likely, and dragging through the water, your freeboard is not that high, definitely not 6'. I know you don't like your battle tested expertise questioned, but please humor me.

[@RiggingDoctor]

Falling off the boat is never a good time, and the chance of surviving is very low. Our first priority is to stay on the boat. Our second priority is to avoid going on deck in bad weather. We reef early and shake it out late to avoid risk. When I go up on deck to work, Maddie is watching and if I fall, she will heave to and stop the boat to begin recovering me. We tested out the lifesling and it sucked. It was slow and tedious, so frankly we try to avoid needing it. We clip in on the high side so that if we fall, we land in the boat. Then we have lifelines and lots of them. The bottom section is woven into a net, and it has been used. I was on the bow lowering the jib when a big wave swamped over the bow. It washed me across the deck and the tether held me while I was caught in the net. The bow is dangerous because it is so narrow. The 6 foot tether can let you hang overboard. At the mast, the beam is 11’ so we can’t really make it over the leeward side too easily. That said, falling off the windward side would suck as you have a long way to fall! Sailing has its risks and lifelines, life jackets, tethers, and any other device won’t keep you on the boat or alive. The first step is to keep good footing and know how to stay on the boat. Being how we live on this small space all the time, we know it like the back of our hand, but accidents can still happen and that is the risk that comes with blue water cruising.

[@Josef_R]

No argument with any of that. But the ultimate purpose of the tether is to keep you attached to the boat in the event you go over. Are you saying you haven't practiced for recovering a tethered person from the water? On a side note, have you practiced using PFDs in the water? My experience is that if its comfortable, it's not going to work properly. I have zippered foam types for inshore use and if it's loose enough on your chest to breathe, then it will ride up over your head in the water. I found out in a capsize mine was not adjusted properly.

[@CheersWarren]

Josef you make some good points but life lines , harnesses ,lifejackets in ocean sailing are last ditch items. Managing you situation is more important. To really learn how to manage yourself on deck in many conditions the fastest training is coastal or off shore racing. Reefing , sail changes etc are all thing that must be done in less than ideal conditions so you learn how to survive on deck but still get the job done. Shorthanded sailing and passage making not on a time schedule is handled differently. Racing was where we learned many important lessons, how tethers can fail, when not to use a life raft , what lifejacket , like auto inflation, can be dangerous as you cannot swim and self rescuer using them and many other thing. While not everybody likes racing everyone should try to do it on a well managed boat, you can learn more in one race than several years of weekend sailing. Cheers Warren