Rivnuts & Nutserts: A secret weapon for automotive DIY | Auto Expert John Cadogan

[@Paul-rg4hi]

As a lifetime boiler maker, i would have previously welded ungodly amounts of meticulously prepared scrap steel together to do half the work a rivnut could perform. I discovered them myself around four years ago , and as I've used them more and more, I've come to question far too many of my previous life choices. Love your work, keep it it.

[@petermdoolan]

I take my hat off to you my welding keep those nuts in business

[@roadsofjapan6009]

Hum so can you use a rubber washer or an O ring for a water tight seal ?

[@prizecowproductions]

As a non welder I salute you. As a ex tradie I am amazed by the volume of stuff sealants gluing compounds and even concrete fixings have evolved so far. My question will be will they ever last as well. Aussie Jeff Moore

[@morrismurray3621]

Your videos are always interesting. I want to add information to this video though. I am a metallurgist and was a consultant to many of the auto companies, now retired. Rivnuts are just amazing. I agree with aluminium to aluminium, Zn coated steel to steel. But placing stainless in contact with the typical steels found in cars is a real corrosion problem. The stainless will form a galvanic corrosion point with the “normal” steels. I have seen this many times and demonstrated to numerous OEMs using corrosion testing. It would be better to use the Zn coated steel ones with body panels. Only use stainless rivnuts into stainless.

[@AutoExpertJC]

Excellent advice. Thank you very much for taking the time. I did not know that.

[@jackblevel8296]

@@AutoExpertJCI wonder how many contact points in the Tesla Urinal will suffer this corrosion?

[@kepamurray1845]

I'm a seconder for concerns about galvanic corrosion with rivnuts. I have seen them used on aircraft and boats with disastrous consequences. Not saying that they can't be used but they have some problems. Helicopter pylons severely corroded, yacht masts blown out with corrosion. I would be VERY, VERY careful about rivnut use cases.

[@morrismurray3621]

@@kepamurray1845 should say that Kepa Murray and I are not related or having a concerted attack, just happen to have the same surname

[@kepamurray1845]

@@morrismurray3621 I'm sorry. Not trying to attack. I just think that they are an edge use case scenario. There are far better systems for aircraft and I am trying to highlight that. Good for lazy engineers. That's all.

[@richarddoig]

Suggestion from when we used rivnuts in industry (ANZAC frigates). Make sure the rivnut and the hole area is degreased prior to install. Also, put a little Loctite 262/263 on the outside of the rivnut. Once clamped, it adds a little locking ability and can stop them spinning.

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@@richarddoig Loctite ay? Hmm, good idea mate! The 'red' one, or the blue one? I'm guessing the red one?

[@shoveI]

I just use a triangle file to file a notch on the edge of the hole. The rivnut smashes into the notch and keys itself so it won't spin.

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@@shoveI Only one?

[@shoveI]

how many would it need?

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@@shoveI I guess, maybe 4? But you're probly better off just using the splined ones really. All sizes are available splined. Cheap ass ones are not splined. With the non-splined ones, you're relying solely on the compression pressure of the 'crimp'. If rivnuts become loose they're an absolute pita to remove, especially the ss ones, &, as has been mentioned, the panel hole usually gets mangled, or at least damaged. Using epoxy, or loctite with rivnuts, as has been mentioned, is a great idea. Of course mate, even one notch filed in the panel is better than none! - I agree with you!

[@hadleysingleton8412]

Impeccable timing John, I was in the middle of replacing the electrical panel in my- dare I say it- caravan as the previous setup (not done by me, and done quite recently judging by the equipment) did not meet the minimum standards. I had gotten hold of a complete setup from a written off van and made a new panel by hand (side note- anyone thinking about doing it don't, get a local engineering firm to laser cut it for you). I had everything roughed in using self tappers to mount the chargers and solar controller, but was unhappy with the sharp edges on the end of the screws. I knew of rivnuts but always thought that it was super expensive and so never looked into it. And so I now had an excuse to go to the most dangerous place on earth- my local tool shop, to buy another tool (because I was on a fairly tight deadline to get it done and couldn't wait for delivery), let's face it, my arm didn't need to be twisted very much at all, but twist you did. Now I have a professional looking job without the sharp edges. P.s. I ended up buying a lot more than just the bloody nut riveter, dangerous places those tool shops.

[@RavenAutoPartsCo]

They are great! First used them on the frame of a shadehouse, a 6m × 20m, in the wifes vege garden. Then the B-I-L wanted one! Over the years the tool handles have gained a lot of slack from wear but still do the job. I've used hundreds of M6 and M8 size with some M10. 👍

[@davidlindburg1921]

As a retired aircraft technician, that's the best ad I've ever seen, really appreciate to using the Vernier calipers to determine what rivnut needs to be used, great job John! 👍

[@CarbonTech19]

I'm also a retired aircraft tech, who worked on structures at one of a major commercial airline's maintenance bases. As a rule, rivnuts were only ever used on secondary stuff like galleys, washrooms and cosmetic structures, and even then, only if you couldn't install an anchor nut. Same as blind fasteners, unless they were those heavily engineered, high performance ones that required precision and expensive, complicated, finicky tooling to properly install...and often engineering approval if it was a repair versus a mod. Having said that, we often were contracted to do checks for other, smaller carriers, which was sometimes entertaining when we encountered some of their field repairs. The best one I've ever encountered was a small scab patch that was secured in place by rivnuts, acting as blind fasteners, with screws securing nothing, installed and PRC'd into them, lol. Sorry for going on but it's rare to run into people who've done what we did. Enjoy your retirement.

[@45Ninjat]

If you're laser cutting sheet metal. Use hexagonal nutserts and hexagonal holes.

[@CAIDMASTEROFPYRO]

I feel like if you have a laser cutter you probably know this

[@gf2e]

@@CAIDMASTEROFPYRO You can get metal laser cut by third party services. Not everyone with access to laser cut metal is an expert. I didn’t know about hex ones. I like that idea.

[@CAIDMASTEROFPYRO]

@@gf2e That is a good point.

[@aljeeper3292]

Been using them for years and haven't had a known failure yet. Something I've always done is a small application of Red Loctite or equivalent on the Nutsert before riveting as anti corrosion, additional sealing plus positive grip. When I use them on thin sheet metal bodywork to mount Gas Struts I use the Nutsert to sandwich a Panel Washer on both sides to stop the torsional twist at the mounting point.

[@rrg6625]

If I was told it was possible to talk about rivnuts for 30 continuous miniutes I would have said "impossible" ( spoken like a French waiter when you ask for a well done steak and ice for your wine) - but you did it mate. Good on ya.

[@Blanchy10]

You don't have to use the tool to use them. If you have a tight spot and can't use it, use a bolt nut and washer. Hold the bolt still and use the nut to extend the length down the bolt, that will draw the rivnut up. The washer helps let the nut spin against the rivnut. Ps I've only used this on aluminium rivnuts to date.

[@hobo1704]

If you are installing many the tool is way quicker. And the steel nuts are way harder to pull than aluminium.

[@floatsomboy]

You can actually buy the bolt type nut setter with a nice bearing washer makes that job way easier

[@billdownes6410]

Hi John , the length you need for different thickness material. Is called the grip length. We use them extensively in aircraft.

[@kepamurray1845]

Which aircraft are you working on? Just want to know so I can avoid it. I like living. I've been in the game for 30+ years and have used maybe 3 or 4. Always been a third rate option. I bet they are home built or ultralights you use them on extensively.....

[@andoletube]

@@kepamurray1845 It always comes down the the engineering design and the rating of the components. It's not as simple as "always do this" or "never do that".

[@johannesschaller5510]

@@kepamurray1845 Odd then that suppliers to the aircraft industry hold extensive stocks of rivnuts, including some qualified for Cessna aircraft, in either keyed or unkeyed format.

[@kepamurray1845]

@@johannesschaller5510Ah yes, Cessna. Do you fly? I would like to say case in point. Rivnuts up to what size? 3/16 (10-32) would pull it up I'd say. May be suitable for a second rate trim installation. What about transport category aircraft?

[@kepamurray1845]

@@andoletube I would be sceptical of any "design engineer" calling for rivnuts. Why would any "design engineer" specify anything other than an anchor nut? I have not seen a single use case where an anchor nut would not have been better. I stand by that and challenge anyone to clearly demonstrate a use case for rivnuts over anchor nuts. They always take more material from the flange that they are fitted to. They never provid the flexibility of a floating anchor nut. The always induce corrosion. They are subsequently subject to corroded fasteners. They do not ensure a positive torque is applied to the fastener. I do not like their use in aircraft and will stand by that.

[@ozyrob1]

Love them. Great to see you spreading the word on what's worth it and what's not. If you spend any time at all in the workshop these things will find plenty of use. Brilliant stuff John.

[@Handleyman]

As a long time user of Rivnuts I strongly recommend having a couple test goes at installing them. So that you can get the feel for how much energy is required to do the job properly without over tightening them.

[@gregrobsn]

I use them in the repair of roll up garage door hinges. The sheet metal section frames along with the self tapping screws that the manufacturers use are always stripping out while the RivNut will bolt up nicely.

[@mickellis8747]

I've used nutserts for years and think they are a great item, that is until the fastener seizes in the rivnut and you have to remove it. The rivnut will turn in the base metal and you'll have to cut the head off the fastener and drill it out while it is spinning around. If you don't have access to the back of the panel to be able to grab it you'll be cursing the day it was installed. This is common with learners who don't put enough force on them during installation. To minimise this I always lube the fastener with grease or anti seize.

[@anordenaryman.7057]

Yep, they work great until you have to take them apart. They are usually used where there is no access to the back and you can safely start cursing the moment you feel it spin. Fun times!

[@gf2e]

Could you tack weld them to stop them spinning?

[@mickellis8747]

@@gf2e if you're going to do that you might as well weld a nut in.

[@legionofanon]

I've had them slightly jam and spin before, i found a little super glue under the flange can usually hold them enough to remove the fastener, but that's assuming the attached panel is not completely covering access to the rivnut

[@CrusaderSports250]

Totally agree, grease is king, applied to all threads and bolts, a pot of grease an old toothbrush and your away, and a good blob of grease on any exposed thread, it makes disassembly a bit on the grubby side but it comes apart.

[@desoneill5489]

I love watching KZbin videos for DIY advice. I have been restoring a 2007 BMW X3 diesel and have had a couple of instances to use Rivnuts. My car spent 90% of its previous life in Cairns, North Queensland and the original owner had electric brakes installed. The auto electrician who did the work was not a tradesman but a butcher. When installing the heavy duty cables inside the car from under the dash area to the rear the cable he used was too short so he put in a solder join. Well at least he used solder! However he simply used a couple of turns of electrical tape in order to insulate his great work?????. I ended up cutting out the soldered join and used at least two layers of heavy duty heat shrink to redo his handy work. I then used split conduit. This is great stuff and with a series of cable ties gives you a professional and safe job. When I worked my way through the car I found the BUTCHER (I refuse to call these types tradies) broke one of the plastic rear seat mounts. Fortunately I found the broken bit nearby and was able to repair it with some epoxy. I believe my repaired work was even stronger than the original as I placed several lengths of a large cut up paper clip into the wet epoxy resulting in a considerable stronger joint. I learned this trick from a previous KZbin video. I was finally to discover their (butcher) final piece of great handy work as I progressed further to the rear of the car and found that they had broken a small stud which they had obviously broken off by using excessive force with their power tool. This stud was originally held in place with two coarse threaded studs and plastic nuts. It wasn't a structural thing as it simply was a plastic bracket for the wheel brace. The butcher's repair job consisted of adding a small amount of epoxy to reattach the broken stud. After rolling around on the ground for several minutes in laughter, I repaired the great handy work with a couple of Rivnuts. And that is why, my friends, I carry out most of the repairs and maintenance to my vehicle myself!

[@melgross]

The only problem with these, and much of the time, it’s not a problem, is that they stand a bit proud of the surface. So when the part needs to be absolutely flush to the surface, I made dies and punches that indent the metal around the hole so as to set the outer rim of the rivnut flush to the surface. An electric drill powers it. You do need to get to the rear of the sheet for access. That solves the occasional problem when it must be flush.

[@สุภารัตร์ศรีบุริน]

Been using for years! My Au$29.95 set came in a cardboard box. Building greenhouses they have proved to be very reliable. We got super high wind last year and no frame collapsed. Apparently you can get them for countersunk holes which would be great if you need a flush mounting face.

[@chrissmith2114]

You can get stainless steel rivnuts and also with a closed end to stop moisture getting in, for places where thread corrosion may be a problem. Best to put a smear of anti-seize on bolt thread as SS is renowned for galling and sticking the thread.

[@chrissmith2114]

I have used rivnuts for years, and never had a 'proper' insertion tool. All I use is a bolt / set screw, nut and washer - I use the bolt itself to collapse the 'rivet' part. Screw bolt into nutsert, screw washer and nut down to rivnut flange hold the bolt from turning with a allen key or spanner, screwing the nut will collapse the wall of rivnut. You can get a digital caliper in Aldi etc for under £10, uses bog standard LR44 / AG13 button cells ( which last years ) and they are as accurate as you ever need and very easy to read.... De-Walt drills are good material and have a central point on them above about 5mm diameter... Beware cheap twist drills that are just about OK on wood but melt at the first contact with metal.

[@TreadsTravels]

I just finished installing a DC-DC charger, MPPT, lithium battery setup in the rear 3rd row footwell of my Pajero. Using M5 rivnuts absolutely changed the game. Won't ever go back to nuts/bolts or tekscrews 👍

[@godfreypoon5148]

M5? Dude, seriously? Nobody uses M5. It goes M3, M4, M6, M8... I can't believe you used M5.

[@philg2468]

​@@godfreypoon5148 M5 is OK. A lot of the Electronic gear for cars comes with 3/16" or M5 slots for installation. I used to drill them wider for M6 but now I occasionally use M5 instead.

[@godfreypoon5148]

@@philg2468 I'm just taking the piss really. I have used plenty of M5.

[@desoneill5489]

John, I have had my Rivnut kit for about 3-4 years now. My set is all metric and I wasn't aware there were imperial available until I watched your video. I purchased my Rivnet set on eBay. I am a DIY individual and have used the Rivnut system on my car on several occasions. You provided some good common sense advice in your video. One place I did use the Rivnut system however was to attach my number plate to my front plastic bumper bar. From memory I used 4 and 6mm Rivnuts and stainless security bolts to attach my number plate. My car did not have a separate bracket on the front and the number plate was simply attached with some PK screws into plastic. I did attempt to use the stainless into the plastic and it wasn't as successful as the aluminium ones. The issue with the stainless was that it requires a much harder crush force than the softer aluminium. I managed to instal them successfully. Remember if you stuff up the installation process then you can easily drill out the mistake and try again. Even with aluminium Rivnuts you get a much stronger attachment with them than simply using PK screws.

[@BTW...]

My first exposure to these sheetmetal fasteners was back in 1977 as an apprentice. They were used to assemble sheetmetal boxes, assemblies and covers on electrical switchboards. These were the original Avdel nuts. We used BA sizes, then ISO metric. (0BA = 6mm) They sure had a lot of down sides.. .came to be loathed. A proper PITA if the blind nut came lose. PITA if stainless fastners gauled. PITA if the hole in the material wasn't tight tolerance to insert diameter. PITA if any lateral loading on a bolt caused panel distortion and losening of the insert nut. The only advantage was they were quicker to install using the pneumatic Avdel tool.. you could install 100 per hour all day.

[@MrSky084]

Plus 1 for Bolt & Nut Australia. Great, easy to use search function, many products and fantastic customer service. (and generally free delivery!)

[@eyerollthereforeiam1709]

I've said it before, John, and I'll say it again. Thank you for your Fat Cave content, de-mystifying mysteries for the DIY people.

[@mynameisben123]

There’s one weakness of these which may be exposed in certain situations. Sometimes (oftentimes?) bolted joints get their strength from the high forces between two mated surfaces which creates very high pressure and as a result, very high friction. So a the shear load is held by the friction across a wide surface rather than the shear in the bolts. Rivnuts drastically reduce the mated surface area the friction acts upon, so the shear load is concentrated on the bolt and the small area around the bolt that is mated between parts. This could be mitigated with a mounting plate that’s slightly thicker than the rivnut thickness on the part side.

[@desoneill5489]

A washer behind the Rivnut (on the inside) gives you a much greater strength.

[@deankay4434]

We installed these in the mid 70's on roof rack kits on station wagons. They were coated with red paste sealer and a flat rubber type washer for sealing. I don't come with a compound nut-insert install tool, just a grade 8 bolt, flat washer and a nut to compress the insert. They worked great but wish I had the tool. DK, ASE Master tech since 78. Thanks for letting others not familiar with this fastener.

[@terrijones1689]

I’ve always wondered about these but didn’t know enough to bother to buy a tool and kit. This has delivered all the information I need. Thank you and keep up the good work 👍

[@Chris_the_Muso]

Step bits are great for sheet metal. A standard deburring tool costs about ten bucks and will deburr both sides of the job. I don't have anything in my toolbox that does the same job, and I use mine all the time. They come with bits for corner deburring, outside and inside hole deburring. There won't be a machinist on the planet that doesn't have this in their tool box. For mounting things to plastic also add heat-set nuts. All you need is a special bit for your soldering iron and you can embed brass nuts in anything plastic (except PEEK or Ultum of course). Predrill the hole 1mm (or 20%) smaller and embed the nut with heat. It's not going anywhere. Also cheap as chips and professional as hell. Great for adding access panels to car interiors, putting up a curtain rail in a camper van or mounting a lightweight bracket. I use 3mm fine (machine screws) for mounting covers and other things. The drongo equivalent of the tech screw in this case is double sided tape (or more tech screws I guess).

[@telecomsuk]

I love these, I have used them on UPVC windows and doors to fit lockable sash jammers. Also good for fitting wheel arch extenders on 4x4 vehicles when you get bigger tyres

[@mud7515]

John, I discovered these things years ago and not in a good way. My 2011 BMW K1300S motorcycle had the rear pillion grab handles secured to the subframe with rivnuts. When trying to fit the BMW accessory rear rack, the handles had to be removed. Three of the four screws were of course, frozen in the rivnuts (corrosion between the aluminium rivnuts and the SS screws) so all I managed to do was make the whole thing spin in the frame. The BMW technician explained what they were and I had to very carefully drill them out and fit new ones with the tool he loaned to me. The 2009 model bike had nuts welded inside the subframe and I had no such issues with that one when doing the same job. I suspected BMW had gone for the cheaper build option... None of this stopped me from upgrading to the 2016 Motorsport edition, but it had the rear rack fitted as standard. The useless rivnuts are no doubt buried inside and I hope I never have to try to undo those screws!

[@MrBrendanrex]

I've used these in the past for modifying electrical control panels for adding parts that can't fit on DIN rail. For example, replacing obselete components with a new part which is smaller but has different fixing centres, where the backplate is too thin to be tapped.

[@sgtdread4192]

Thanks John, I discovered rivnuts a couple of years ago and have used them to fit out my work van. mainly because it looks neat and professional. I got some useful tips from this video, thanks.

[@LTVoyager]

You can get flush rivnuts for places where the surface protrusion is a problem. You may need to dimple or countersink the material before installation depending on the material and thickness.

[@VNNZTC]

I bought a complete kit based on your video. Really happy with it. Previously I have used Ramset toggles, but this is far superior.

[@jeffreythompson9549]

Cadogan, you're worse that my wife at creating guilt.. I had to stop the video halfway through to go and replace the self-tappers that held my number plate on the bumper with the rivnuts that I'd bought for just such a job.

[@MrLunithy]

lol

[@rossatkinson3160]

bahahahahaha

[@LTVoyager]

Never let a KZbinr shame you into doing something stupid. For most light duty purposes like holding on a license plate, a rivnut is gross overkill and a waste of money. Rivnuts are great for medium duty applications. Self-tapping fasteners are great for light duty applications. And good old hex nuts are what you need for real loads. It is all about matching the tool to the job, not trying to make one solution fit every problem.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

Double sided tape is better if it is at all possible as an option.

[@LTVoyager]

@@rimmersbryggeri 😂, Um, no.

[@Sparky_D]

I started using nutserts 20 years ago as an apprentice. They are great as long as they are installed correctly.

[@regsparkes6507]

I've used these for years and I can tell you folks, these can truly, save your job. You do need a kit like this in your workshop.

[@Mike-ry4ti]

Riv nuts are awesome for adding things to cars. I like to use them for mounting inter coolers behind bumpers, you don't have to weld potentially dangerous protruding steel angle iron or flat bar to the front cut, instead one can simply bolt aluminum pieces to it instead, this makes minimal changes to the original car and also reduces potential harm to pedestrians in an accident, as you can use much softer aluminum which will bend on impact a lot easier than steel.

[@DrFiero]

Been using rivnuts for decades, they're awesome. Most recently - put 4 into the side of my roller cabinet, and mounted a laptop holder!

[@sniperneil53]

Thanks, John. My wife bought me a kit very similar to the one you are using and I could never figure out how it worked (the instructions were as clear as mud). After watching this video, I now know what to do to make the thing work. I have a lot of small jobs for rivnut replacement, so I'll be using it (it is currently sitting on the top shelf in the workshop along with all the worn out or useless tools).

[@johncunningham4820]

Yep , Rivnuts work well . Even in the event they loosen and start to rotate , with a " Bit of Fiddling " you can re-seat them . Oh , and I absolutely LOVE that T-shirt .

[@ry__6988]

The Monroe question: What do fasteners do? Answer: They come undone (and not always when you want)! Having said that I’d like to defend the innocuous self-tapper; for light weight applications it can be just right. I’d also like to suggest that instead of drilling a hole, if possible, use a punch to make the hole. This does however take a little skill to get the Goldilocks penetration amount. With test strips pulled to destruction made with this technique I saw yield strengths 2 to 3 times higher than drilling. With the punch no material is removed, and an inward flange is created making for more contact area with the threads. A little paint into the hole beforehand wouldn’t go amiss in places where salt can be issue, skipping this can lead to a post-operation binding agent reaction (rust).

[@michaelharrison500]

These things are a life saver Used them on an impossibly small spaced recessed armrest in an old car

[@schrenk-d]

Rivnuts are awesome. I also thought your neighbour with the leaf blower might be receiving a rivnut brow piercing with the look you gave at 6:25 :D

[@markheath9172]

I bought a setup about 3 months ago - they are brilliant - use it on my car & boat all the time. The big 2 handled ones are the go - like in the video - the smaller ones that look like a pop-riveter are useless.

[@kmg501]

Thank you for bringing this topic up. I completely forgot about these fasteners. I'll have to keep them in mind going forward.

[@WylieWiggins]

We definitely agree on traditional calipers! Digital are prone to making mistakes at least as often as a human being, if not more often. Threadcerts, I've used in wood for years, for metal if I can't tap threads in it, I'll affix a nut to the back side, color me old school.

[@peteanderson2533]

I discovered rivnuts years ago when working as an Electrical Fitter. So handy, I got my own set and have used them in lots of projects over the years.

[@paul-57]

I bought a Vevor spring compressor recently to replace the strut tops in my Commodore. Having previously used the standard type spring compressors from Supercheap and Autobarn I was amazed how quick, easy and safe the VEVOR Strut Spring Compressor Set is. It is an amazingly high quality unit and takes literally seconds to compress or release a spring. Just bought the Rivnut set now.

[@stevenlee92833]

I'm nuts for Riv-nuts! After drilling, 2 stage primer and paint, this is the fastest part of a clean install. A must for the professional tired of j-clips rattling and scratching the material. I have a different brand tool in this case, but I have another Vevor tool and it's made really well. I modified mine by putting a straight bar with a nut on instead of the knob, that way I can crank it it by hand or with an electric ratchet so it takes only a few seconds per Riv-nut.

[@mayflowerlash11]

A few years ago I needed to attach a number plate to a new car and I couldn't access behind the bumper. So I bought a small rivnut set (not from Vevor). When I tried to use the pliers it was a one handed operation, unlike the two handled Vevor tool. And because I am not a 400 lb gorilla I could not close the plier handle to squish the spline. I returned the tool to the supplier (whose name starts with B) saying I was unable to work it. Now I have seen your demonstration I will get a Vevor set because the usefulness of inserting a "nut" from one side is obvious. Thanks JC Your advise on other topics was also useful.

[@legionofanon]

One handed much like a blind rivet tool, right? I found using this to not fully thread into the rivnut so that the handle is mostly closed before engaging, squeeze and screw a turn or two and repeat. It's a few more steps but it's easier than trying to do it in one shot

[@billeves4627]

My 30 year old Magna wagon has rivnuts in the tailgate to hold the screws for the rear number plate. They were put there at the factory.

[@supersami7748]

You have done a fantastic marketing job John. After watching your demonstration I decided I was going to upgrade to this kit and ditch the very cheap unit I currently have. As of 5 minutes ago (PST USA) they are out of stock. Thanks for another great vid.

[@paulmartin7737]

Very useful info on these, have used M4, 5 6 and 8 for various jobs around the place. Another shout out for Bolt and Nut Australia, they are my go-to for specialty fasteners

[@kenlee5509]

Just bought 2, one for myself and one for my roommate. Thanks, _dude_ !

[@TimDousset]

11:08 The other advantage of step drills is the roundness of the hole. Normal twist drills can cut a more triangular shaped hole in thin material. 20:00 Don't forget blind rivnuts sealed at one end.

[@jasonspall2157]

I use a lot of GPR Cabinets which have 5mm thick internal device plates. I use rivnuts to give me mounting points on the device plate. Also used them on Fibreglass panels.

[@chrissybabe8568]

After you have done a few, especially larger sizes, you will gravitate towards a pneumatic driver. One squeeze of the trigger and, bang, it is done. If using pneumatic on smaller sizes you need to reduce the pressure. And watch out for using the lever type clamps because some designs will allow the clamper to clamp unevenly on one side more than the other (especially on larger sizes). The vevor does look to be better designed than others and great that you get a good range of sizes.

[@kensmith5694]

A couple of points: It is nice to also have the tool where the handle goes off at a right angle. This can let you do inserts in crowded locations. The coating on the aluminum ones means they don't work well for doing a grounding lug. They make many types including ones that work for plastic parts. There are special ones for high torque cases.

[@tano1747]

Rivnuts are convenient. But... In my experience as an engineer doing forensic engineering on design failures in the rail industry, I consider them the work of the devil himself... Maybe okay to hold a component onto a static sheet metal enclosure in a home workshop, but 1) in applications involving fluctuating loads, particularly if the load tends to wobble the component back and forth, like a row of rivnuts in a straight rhs, the small shoulder of the rivnut provides a fulcrum for the wobble, and they will tend to work loose. At that point the issue isn't the buggered rivnut, it is the wallowed out hole that goes with it. A replacement rivnut won't grip, and a bigger one will require a different size fastener, which mat not be feasible... 2) As John says, hole size is CRITICAL. There's no near enough here... they have to be perfect, and even then, grip of the rivnut in the hole is marginal at best, particularly 3) for engineered fasteners where there is a specified torque to be applied, this is (for any given size fastener) generally right at the limit of grip of the rivnut in the hole. If it spins while you are trying to torque the screw, it is game over. The rivnut must be replaced. Which leads to... 4) try to extract or remove a loose rivnut without chewing out the hole further... go on, try -- i dare you. And good luck with it. None of our tradies was able to do it reliably. I would use them, but only with non structural static situations where the screw doesn't need to be fully torqued (in which case if there's any vibration, you will need loctite to stop it unscrewing) and you must be VERY careful with the installation. They are a bit like concrete anchors... if they go in perfectly at the first attempt, they are great, but if there's any problem it becomes an instant disaster that is generally irrecoverable. Use at your own risk, and try very very hard to get the perfect installation at the first attempt because in the real world, there's no second chances. Oh and in light of the above, caveat emptor on cheap rivnuts, and for goodness sake don't use metric rivnuts in an imperial hole or vv. A 6mm rivnut in a 1/4" hole is not reliable. The above is based on actual service experience on an engineered design in a fleet of 375 assemblies x4 rivnuts per assembly, on which we had dozens and dozens (maybe in the end hundreds) of failures, every one of which was a nightmare to fix.

[@blackbandit1290]

Discovered them years ago when I was in the RAAF along with other fasteners including rivets which I have used extensively in my 'projects' over the years. Thanks for the reminder of just how good these things are.

[@thearchitect4726]

i used nutserts in my shed to lock the outer walls into the sides of my mezzanines so i didnt have to pull outer sheets off to get behind the upright portan c channels. the mezzanines were supportedby their own legs so this was merely additional support for the wall

[@frogmatt33]

Please John - more workshop vids... that was just so useful. Cheers

[@LeeNortcliffe]

Worth noting that while step drills are great for sheet metal they often go up in 2mm increments (8mm or 10mm for the 9mm hole you needed). There are a small range that increase by 1mm per step, but these are limited in terms of size, or the depth behind the panel doesnt have enough depth to get to the required size. I have cut down a few step drills to solve this too.

[@johannesschaller5510]

Good story John - these are enormously useful in sheet metal assemblies, especially when disassembly is a potential requirement. Kincrome has a drill attachment which makes the installation process a bit faster, but I'd only use it for smaller thread rivnuts, say below M5. The Vevor tool looks like it'll last a long time, with care, but might be restrictive if space is limited around the installation.

[@paulmannix1760]

Bolt & Nut Australia, bloody great company, the more you buy the cheaper the item gets, super efficient business. No I’m not employed by them.

[@dj1NM3]

One thing which really should be kept in mind is to get bigger rivnut pliers than you think you might need, the ones which look like pop-rivet pliers (one-hand operation) require the grip-strength of Heracles to squeeze anything bigger than a 5mm rivnut.

[@pvda64]

On the subject of drill bits don't forget Sutton still make drill bits locally and can be purchased at the big green shed and other places.

[@Loveitdownunder]

Very interesting. I agree with your comment about Verniers.I@76 transitioned to electronic LCD verniers.After finding two flat batteries (mainly happens on the cheap Chinese units) i went back to the manual version's...

[@WogChilli]

Industrially jaded engineers like John Cadogen, AvE and This old Tony are the champions of men's entertainment, with Home Improvement being the OG player in the game.

[@AutoExpertJC]

ToT and AvE are legends. Agreed re: Home Improvement. Overjoyed to be mentioned in the same comment as them...

[@RickTrajan]

Found these from my shop foreman years ago, was able to use the instller tool later on when someone used wood screws on a infiniti license plate.

[@antonreyment8945]

Love the DIY segment. Even though I have used rivnuts a couple of times I found this informative and would love to see more DIY videos from the ghetto.

[@brucepeebles4939]

Thank you for the "rivnut tutorial". I agree there are a lot of advantages to using them Also consider reviewing brass-threaded "Well Nuts" which are a close cousin of the rivnit. I first encountered Well Nuts on Motorcycle and Snowmobile. Well Nuts offer shock-isolation, waterproof-seal, NO TOOL install, as well as dealing with assembly-misalignment.

[@tinkering123]

Great full explanation. Jus start'n with rivnuts.. Digg'n tinkering

[@mikehunt8968]

There's an electric drill attachment that makes it even easier! Saves bending the Mandel with the smaller sizes.. particularly on inaccessible. pieces 😉

[@lancer1993]

I just started using them, made some brackets for the roof rack for easy install and removal. Love them!

[@BlackhawkPilot]

Looks like the exact solution I need to hang many items in my RV with 1/8” walls. Kits start at $50 US on Amazon in the USA.

[@OldFellaDave]

This would have been a handy guide a month ago :) We put a Kings Tub Rack on my Triton and, based on some online advice, I raced up to Supercheap to grab a Nutsert Kit to install it onto the Tub. Worked it out in the end and used 12 Nutserts in to bolt it all down safely and securely.

[@seaeagles6025]

I'm not a DIY dude but the way you explained it even I would be able to use those Rivnuts and Nutserts. Your right about the quality John, they are well crafted and I bet they won't ever rust. Cheers John 😊

[@jimmydcricket5893]

The new light truck at work used rivet inserts that looked like Allan keyed, to hold the rear step on. They started loosening up and falling out. Drilled the rest n installed bolts with locktite.

[@Equiluxe1]

I have been using rivnuts for twenty plus years. You can if needed use a set screw and nut to insert them in confined spaces. They are also available in counter sunk version so that there is no stand off.

[@unclejohn5012]

I appreciate these kinds of videos mate! Was trying to figure out how to cleanly mount some relays recently, decided to use 3M adhesive tape which part of the idea was anti vibration propertys as well. If only i had of thought of RivNuts!

[@chrissybabe8568]

And you can buy aluminium, stainless steel, zinc plated steel rivnuts. The stainless does require more grunt to clamp. You can even splash on some zinc primer before clamping to help with rustproofing.

[@MrStevecrasher]

IF you can get at the reverse face, you get a much better crimp face bite if you can clear any surface protection away which can be added later. Riv nuts AND riv studs are awesome.

[@The-Fat-Kid]

I’ve been using these for a long time. With a little corrosion they are an absolute nightmare to get out when they spin. When installing a drop of super glue or epoxy on the outside works wonders, just don’t get it onnthe threads.

[@stephenfraser2521]

Been using for years great investment but mine is old and that set is so nice with a case etc. I’m so tempted to buy one. 👍

[@floatsomboy]

I have been using these for nearly 10 years in my home getto workshop, back in the day I stumbled across an second hand Eclipse one like a pop river gun only went to 8mm.

[@JamesMullarneyIsAFraud]

just did a car up and used them. My goodness they are brilliant.

[@davidgreen424]

It's weird, I'd never heard of rivnuts but I was trying to work out how to stick a nut to the back of a panel that I would have access to the back of once it was in place. Then I thought of rivets , and once in place creating a thread in it , so I started googling rivets and threads, and wouldn't you know there were rivnuts. There are a great invention.

[@rossmarzano]

Nutserts are the best, use them all the time. I drill the holes with a step drill because twist drills tend to make a triangular hole and step drills are more precise in sheet metal.

[@rocarr180]

Fixed fishing rod holder to the very rear back door of my van 😂 using these they rock ❤️

[@apistosig4173]

John - Bolt & Nut have served me well. As for Nutserts - me's preferred Kincrome but that Vevor kit is impressive.

[@lesflynn4455]

Wow what a nice piece of kit. I've done very little tool work in the last couple of years so these are new to me. I've never seen them before. I'm certainly keeping them in mind for potential future purchase and use. Thanks for making this excellent video John.

[@clivewilliams3661]

Rivnuts have been around for decades and one of my own tools is a copy of the one used by Land Rover back in 1980's. The important thing to remember is that they have their limitations and should not be used where structural strength is paramount. Therefore, the obvious range for Rivnuts use in automotive applications is M3 to M8 and occasionally, where absolutely necessary M10. I have never used M12 Rivnuts and I can't see a use for them because if you need a 12mm/0.5inch bolt to secure anything it must be structural and therefore requires something much more robust. I would hope that you wouldn't use a Rivnut in 7/16"UNF to secure a seat belt mount!!!! M3 Rivnuts are very useful for securing panels, where disassembly is required but self tapping screws are too aggressive. Rivnuts are also made for GRP, which is very useful for competition car/kit car etc fabrication.

[@davem4423]

Fab video, just what I needed , great info, I'm using these for the first time & now am confident I can do it without swearing , smashing crap up or bleeding ...haha thanks mate, a big hello from cold damp great Britain

[@MattBlack6]

Worked all day yesterday and most of the night. And 7 hours this morning, ahhh the tow life. I'm going to use this to fall asleep to. Fyi, have a nutsert in my 80 series.

[@trainwreckinadumpsterfire]

Used them a few times, had a ghetto rivnut tool I got from a gas strut installation kit... it sort of works. But now, I've got no excuse, this makes it look too easy!

[@markfoster6110]

Out of stock already! You have done it again!!

[@neelamharia4225]

Really enjoyed this episode. Learnt something and got entertained. I think I prefer these videos to your car ones 😂