Convert Mountain Bike To Drop Bars for Touring/Monster Cross/Gravel Bike

I show how to install dropbar handlebars and integrated brake shifter levers (brifters) on a mountain bike (with 26" wheels) to build a touring/monster cross/gravel bike. I also change from V-brakes to cantilever brakes for compatibility to the road brakes. And also swap out the mountain front derailleur to a triple road front derailleur. The bike I used for the conversion is a 1998 Cannondale Birkenstock M400. And yeah, I know the wheels need to be trued.
I switched from v-brakes to cantilever brakes because cantilever brakes have the same cable pull ratio as road levers. V-brakes require nearly double the amount of cable pull to operate properly and won't work correctly with standard road levers.
I did not use Mini V-Brakes as they only work with tires up to about 38mm wide. I could have used a Travel Agent, but they are known to fray the cable with it goes through the pulley. I chose cantilevers. I'd like to point out that manufacturers like Trek and Surly use cantilevers on some of their current bikes. Check out Surly's Long Haul Trucker.
Shimano SIS rear derailleurs all have the same cable pull ratio. There is no difference between a road rear derailleur and a mountain bike rear derailleur as far as cable pull ratio (note: 10 speed mountain changed). But Shimano road and mountain front derailleurs have a different cable pull ratio. Since I was switching from mountain shifters to road shifters, I had to change the front derailleur, but not the rear one. See this video on how indexed shifting works: • How Indexed Shifting W...
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[@RJTheBikeGuy]

For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell 🛎 so you never miss another video ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy

[@bananasstuff3344]

Could you give me a link to the cantilevers?

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

@@bananasstuff3344 I don't remember where I got them. I don't see them on Amazon. I think they were Avid Shortys. Tektro makes some decent cantilever brakes also.

[@pranitnakhwa4068]

It turned out great. Could you please tell me how much would it cost me? I have a similar mountain bike which I would love to convert into drop bars. Kindly revert back, thanks :)

[@dukelamode1993]

35:25 he is wearing white socks, mad respect.

[@oliverfarkas1012]

@@RJTheBikeGuy can i use road shifters with mechanical disc barkes?

[@paulrawlins5868]

Really clear, well detailed process. No flashy cuts or distracting music. Really appreciate how you go through every step

[@Jack-bf6hv]

You missed the cut of the cables

[@bikemotobrasilefutebol5944]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIbIiIyOrcp0gbs passeio serra do mar

[@Prxpagandalf]

😁👍🏻

[@johnflesher7347]

Thanks for the video. Nice work My 2 cents: 1. These mountain-to-gravel conversions make for a very versatile machine. 2. If you can manage, a longer steerer tube is essential for aesthetic and fit. Several spacers will be needed. Also, Mtn geometry usually means a shorter stem is needed for drop bars. The extreme stem rise on this machine is undesirable both for looks and fit. It’s worth the extra $ to get a new fork for these rigs. 3. Full length cable housing works well for gravel. 4. Shimano mtn rear derailleurs (Deore, XT, XTR) WILL work with Shimano STI (“brifters”). If you are still using a larger rear cassette, the longer cage will be helpful. If changing to a “road cassette” like 11-25, I would consider changing to a road derailleur such as 105 (for about $40). Thanks again for a great video

[@mohenriksen321]

almost all the shimano road stuff nowadays is incompatible with its mtb components, with differing pullrates and throw leading to expensive mistakes

[@janwarrington]

I learnt a lot from this video despite already being ok with bike mechanics and have converted an mtb to drops - Love the way it handles, so much fun ! The only improvement I could wish for is that you film taking the bikes out after a feature and give us your thoughts on how they ride etc. Best wishes AJ and thank you for your easy to follow informative presentations

[@markjmaxwell9819]

With the tanpan and the brakepad extenders it opens up a whole new world for old MTB conversions....

[@casgian3272]

These are always by far the most informative and simplistic bicycle repair videos

[@RC_Farm]

I followed your directions and did a conversion with an old Easton Reflex frame I had and it works most excellent. A great ride on gravel and it saved me a ton of money compared to buying a new gravel bike. Thanks for the idea.

[@767bob]

RJ, nice job! I did the same to my 1992 Trek 950 in 1997, first with a Moustache bar then in 2003 with a road drop bar. The drop bar worked out the best. These old mtb's are great commuter, touring and trail bikes. Plenty of room for fenders with tires that are 1.75" wide. May not be a speedster but it will cover the miles with no issues. What I see other people do with their mtb/drop bar conversions is go with skinny tires, too long stems and way too low bar height and then complain about numb hands, stain backs and necks. Stay with the wider tires, shorten the stem and raise the stack height is the way to go. Surly makes a great fork replacement for 26" wheels for their LHT. Excellent fork to attached racks for touring and to increase the steering tube height. A lot easier on the back and neck! Cheers.......

[@markmarlatt1105]

Bob Torres I'm looking at a bike for this! Wondering how well it rides and any other recommendations?

[@51249ca]

what size steer tube to do you have on that Trek 950. Am wanting to do this to a 1992 Rocky Mountain Blizzard, but it only has a 1" steer tube (although should work with an aheadset adapter).

[@GM-vk8jw]

He builds bikes in his socks!He’s such a cool dude! I’ve learned so much about bikes watching this channel. I’m really grateful for these videos 👍

[@MrTaxiRob]

One thing I've found about these conversions is that the longer top tube of any MTB frame relative to its height can give some funny riding positions and/or handling characteristics when simply swapping in drop bars. With first gen MTBs, you're basically getting a touring frame with 26" wheels, so it's just a matter of stepping down a frame size and setting the handlebars relatively high to compensate. With later MTBs like the Cannondale in the video, you might also want to run a zero offset seatpost and shorter stem to close the distance from your saddle to the bar, especially if you intend to spend any time riding the hoods; but you're still left with a higher BB shell than a typical road bike, so your torso is also going to be pitched forward just a bit more when you reach optimal leg extension.

[@edwinrust4041]

Good advice! I personally like long top tubes on my mountain bikes... And drops don't like long, low top tubes... I've converted a few bikes with short top tubes and they work great! The trick I like is to position the tops of the hoods about where my normal grips would be...

[@SetigoAndram]

Taxi Rob, I am doing one conversion, and riding years the steel bike with 26 1.2 tires provided me 20mm less hight, and easy mount on bike. Now with more 30mm due to 700c wheels, it has loosed that feeling of easy mounting dismounting. About the handlebars, they can be put upper or closer. About that 30mm gain, 21C tires would compensate more the difference, than 28c tires, but we always have to compromise things on our options. Anyway, on 26 to 700 conversion, is the lack of drop on bottom axle than can impact more on ruining it, I feel.

[@rakdumafo]

How do you know this? Is there anything to get information about that? I recently bought a Raleigh MTB and wanted to change it to drop bars too, but I'm not very familiar with bike geometry. dont want to get a tendinitis :D

[@alanc6752]

Looks pretty awesome. Doing the conversion to drop bars is straightforward if you have all the parts but filming it as you go and then editing it all together as a video is a big job!

[@sladynamo]

31:55 Dude is working in the shop in his socks. Thinkin' you needed a pair of real Birkenstocks to go with that sweet yellow Cannondale.

[@bikemotobrasilefutebol5944]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIbIiIyOrcp0gbs passeio serra do mar

[@Nazzz65]

Hello RJ, Thank you for this demo! I aim to convert a my first mountain bike to drop bars over the winter. You have shown me many things to consider. Best Regards, Tim

[@my3jeeps]

Did you end up doing this? It would make this job a lot easier if they had converters for the shifters and brakes instead of having to change out the derailleur and go to a lesser brake.

[@carstenhm]

A lesser brake?

[@jacksonhall5725]

@@carstenhm Cantilever brakes are typically much worse-performing than v-brakes. I am doing a similar conversion and I went with friction shifters so I could use long-pull road levers and V-brakes.

[@stevemillerster]

I always enjoy your videos, I received a notification this morning that there was a new RJ video- I exclaimed "Yes!" And my wife said, "another RJ video?" She knows how much I enjoy watching these videos 😜

[@nikos9742]

same here my girlfriend know that voice

[@rowanpiths1121]

Steven Miller ok

[@Tailslol]

heh i remember 95s bikes they had thumb levers shiftier and Cantilevers brakes. even on the cheapest mountain bike... wait was the bikes of this time better than actual bikes...?

[@bikemotobrasilefutebol5944]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIbIiIyOrcp0gbs passeio serra do mar

[@jasonsmith5259]

Love watching you fix these old bikes.. Very informative!

[@joebob3719]

Pro-tip for anybody considering doing this to your old MTB: RJ didn't have to mention this because his bike is already rigid, but if you are going to replace a suspension fork, make sure your rigid fork is "suspension corrected". In order for suspension to work your frame is designed to have space between to the down tube and the front wheel for suspension travel. A normal fork is right on top of the wheel, lowering the down-tube on a sus frame a whole inch if not more. While it can work, the handling of the bike is going to feel funny and skiddish, and increase the risk of pedal strike with the lowered BB. A suspension corrected fork will raise the frame to it's proper height and geometry, and allow the bike to look and ride as intended.

[@VinCoxRides]

joebob3719 actually using a fork which is not suspension corrected will alter MTB geometry to be much more like a cyclo-cross bike. I have done this a few times and it works well. It steepens the otherwise too slack angles, effectively shortens the top tube (measured horizontally), and slightly lowers the BB height.

[@joebob3719]

That's an excellent point, but CX handling isn't exactly desired for touring nor is it helpful when there is weight on a rack over the front wheel.

[@VinCoxRides]

CX geometry was on the bike I rode 18,000 miles around the world.

[@joebob3719]

Vin Cox Congratulations fam, that's really cool. However, this might come as a shocker, but, in fact, not everybody is you. Every rider has a different set of needs and what worked for you over thousands of miles could break the back of someone completely different after mile 90. A CX worked for you and that's great, but it doesn't mean that is what someone else wants, especially if they are explicitly expecting a touring geometry out of this conversion. Something which, I'm sure you'll agree, is very different than road, mtb, or CX geometries.

[@joebob3719]

The question I should ask is, did you use a front rack?

[@ReadBoutGarvey]

Currently have a Cannondale just like this disassembled and am shopping around for parts - thanks for the helpful video!

[@TaywuhsaurusRex]

I recently got my hands on a very similar Cannondale frame, 1997 red M300SE. I plan on doing this exact thing to it, and I love how helpful your videos always are. I hope you recover from your crash soon so we can start getting more content like this!

[@alexanderlawson1649]

Lovely bike. I had a Cannondale frame just like that, real nice purple color, I gave it to a friend 15 years back, wish I hadnt. I just bought an old Specialized Aluminum MTB 2nd hand, those old 26 inch wheel mtbs are great for just about anything that can be done on two wheels.

[@ekw77]

Great video as always RJ! I did a similar project with a 1995 Trek 830 MTB frame. I would add to your video and commentary that if one is thinking about a touring bike instead of a cross bike that bar end shifters are a great option. I even got Tektro drop bar brake levers that do long pull so I can use my beloved Avid SD7 v-brakes. Just some food for thought for people not interested in STI or cantis that there are other possibilites out there in this regard. I've set my bike up with full racks, 2" Continental Travel Contact tires, and fenders front and back. It's my daily commuter and is about to take me on a six day trek from Pittsburgh to DC on the GAP. I built u the bike to replace a stolen Surly LHT and I've completely fallen in love with it over the last few years I've had it.

[@davidobrien8438]

Pre-STI cyclocross bikes used bar-end shifters. Never seen one with down-tube shifters. You still occasionally see bar-end shifters on the race course.

[@allenmcdaniel1470]

I LIKE that cable-holding brake adjustment tool! Trick. LOVE good tools!

[@JQPOINT]

Thank you! You are an excellent teacher. You work with the precision of a good surgeon!

[@PJSinohin]

Thanks for this vid. This is how i learned that i need those 45 degree stem for my mtb to gravel bike with drop bars.

[@bikemotobrasilefutebol5944]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIbIiIyOrcp0gbs passeio serra do mar

[@robertoneil3966]

This is a great video! I am converting my bike with flat bars and trigger shifters to drop bars and road bike brake/shifter levers so this video is exactly what I needed.

[@gearhead2017]

rj you make bikes that are dumpster bound and useful again,awesome inspiration!

[@mandrade5611]

vapnmtnbikr this Cannondale was far from being a dumpster bike.

[@matthewfrance3173]

How does changing from flat bars to drop bars change this, or any, bike from dumpster bound to useful? It was useful before the bars were changed.

[@kyleegeep]

M some bikes like these get dumped by people who say they just don't want it and can't be bothered to sell it

[@therealjeff8086]

This bike would sell for $200 around here in the original state. Which is actually a little ridiculous, but true.

[@1simo93521]

Thanks for all you do RJ I've learned so much, I couldn't even change a tyre when I first started watching!

[@noodlenugget1487]

I think RJ just does projects like this because he hates cables and has to cut everyone he sees...

[@JasonKale]

I hate seeing people just cutting and wasting cables shody in my opinion.

[@matthewfrance3173]

Agreed. If cables are frayed or too short for a rebuild, the rear cable can always be re-used on the front derailleur, but not if you cut it in the middle. Wasteful.

[@jackfederski7646]

Old cable housings can get grimy. Quite often you can fix cruddy or slow shifting by replacing shift cables and housings, so for old bikes it makes sense, in my opinion, to get rid of old housings. When I say old, my "road" bike is a 1989 Bianchi cyclocross, also converted for drop-bars.

[@charlesandrewmoore8699]

It's worth noting that MTB brake levers need different ends than road brifters, anyway.

[@edwinrust4041]

Actually, replacing cables is a super easy way to improve shifting and braking, especially after a few years... Cables stretch and get grimey, even inside housing....

[@jackfederski7646]

I converted my 1989 Bianchi varsity hybrid (cyclocross?) to drop bars when I had bad inflammation in my arms and was no longer able to hold onto straight bars for any length of time. I was able to do a less expensive conversion. I did not want to change the derailleurs. It turned out that my wife's bike also had a mountain 3x7 drive-train so I was able to fit her shifters onto my drop bars because they were cheaper. Instead of a cast housing, they used a metal strap, so it was tolerant of the diameter of the drop bars. The brake levers tolerated the diameter and I already had cantilever brakes, so I purchased inexpensive drop bar brakes instead of brifters (brake shifter combination units that you used). Our bikes ended up very different though, since mine was based on700c wheels but originally came with Shimano MountainLX groupo. btw, my shifters fit on my wife's bike since hers was already straight bars, so my project only required calbes, housings, and the cheap drop bar brakes and also the cheap auxiliary brakes for riding on top. I am kind of glad I did the conversion before I saw your video. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to get drop bar shifters to work on my Mountain gear train, and it never occurred to me to change the derraileurs. I would have copied you, but since I never thought of that, I saved some money. Clever, though. Thanks for the videos. I think I will have to watch ALL of them to get your ideas.

[@sebastiantoma3369]

i have done a similar thing last year, and i used regular V-Brakes with Tektro RL540 linear pull brakes. nice ones. worked fine with disc brakes (hayes mx5), on a single speed mutant with 120mm travel fork and dropbars :))

[@edthemechanic]

This Project shows a good Alternativ to the recent Gravel Bikes. I'm sure it works and I'm making a Bike this way with a Titanium Frame and a rigid Aluminium Fork right now. Thanks for the Inspiration!

[@karamarie6781]

You are unbelievably awesome. Thank you for sharing your knowledge especially to those of us who are just starting out on our bike mechanic journey! 💕💕

[@josephsotomayor7661]

I have been working with bicycles for a long time,just a hobby! Great antidepressant!!! This video is very thorough and contains an incredible amount of information on how to fix bicycles. Thank you for all your information and the detailed instructions. Great job!!!!!

[@wanderingsailor5503]

Wow, I'm not the only one doing it as an antidepressant :P

[@tomalcolm]

I love this! I did this mod with my Sirrus 700c hybrid. Now a drop bar commuter/touring bike with cantis and dura ace bar end shifters. Super duper. Do it!

[@Roadstar1602]

This looks like way more work than I had anticipated. I had to buy a bike with straight bars this spring because there simply was no selection available. I never liked those sort of bars, and figured I could switch them out later. But it looks so complicated and expensive.

[@sitoudien9816]

Try the Surly corner bar conversion. Reuse all your MTB components. It's not a cheap bar, but you save even more.

[@1zanglang]

Great work. I did the same conversion on my Merida T2. I did put an 105 groupset, Easton 46cm compact shallow handlebars, and BB7 road disc brakes.

[@cospinan]

1zanglang hi could you load some pictures?

[@1zanglang]

Cesar ospina Well, I will try...

[@1zanglang]

I would try.

[@michaelblackwell2282]

I give props to this gentleman great demonstration very informative...

[@MegaFoxey1]

Very nice conversion of this classic cannondale, might look to do one myself 😉

[@bikemotobrasilefutebol5944]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIbIiIyOrcp0gbs passeio serra do mar

[@jbirdperez6088]

You'll make a great neighbor my brother ha!... im always tearin down and repairing classic . big fan of classic road bike and mountain. . That bike will now make a nice touring bike

[@glennoc8585]

That cannondale was a sweet bike and not cheap back in the day. A young kid can pick one up cheap and when i was a kid you would be really getting nothing in comparison on the used bike market.

[@SurpriseMeJT]

Those old Cannondale's are awesome. I used to race a CAAD3 that looked a lot like this one you have. I have a vintage 90's full rigid mountain bike as my commuter and if I were too poor, I'd use it for everything. They're nice and short in wheelbase so they are versatile in terms of road handling and off road manners.

[@tommybdutton]

RJ, your hard on my marriage, the wife gets upset whit me because I'm always looking the rebuild bikes like you! Lol thank you, love your channel

[@trek520rider2]

Pretty cool RJ. The front derailer adjustment was a big help. I suggest you replace the QR seatpost clamp with a conventional one that needs an Allen key. You don't need to adjust seat height when road biking like you do mountain biking and it makes the saddle less likely to get stolen. My son found that out the hard way.

[@NeverSrrndr]

Hi RJ, Great idea!! I have a Cannondale 29'er Trail SL 5 disc that I'ma gonna do that too.. I've been using it as a commuter and have noticed it is much more comfortable ridewise than the old steel road bike. I think those big tires are just so absorbant during the ride. Soaking it up. And the 29 inch round things help, no doubt, as well. And the fact that it has mechanical disc makes for an intriguing monster/cyclocross hybrid beastie any intrepid commuter would proud of when battling the other vehicular transportational modes.. ;) I actually have the opportunity to go off road to cut a longer section out on the way home. So this could be an excellent way to do it. Thinking about some knobbled down slicker type tires as well. I feel inspired after watching this.. Thanks mucho, Yohann, Of the Cycling Yohann's.

[@nitishsrivastava1496]

Hey, I have 29er very similar to yours. I have been thinking of this idea as well. Were you able to work on it?

[@mcp12300]

I'm in no postion to swap parts on my bike but this has helped me understand the mechanics of bikes, thanks.

[@el_micha]

Nice conversion of this classic cannondale! One thing though : as a cannondale enthusiast I keep seeing the cables set up the wrong way. The cable coming from the right hand shifter should go around the steerer tube into the left cable stop. The other one vice-versa. Otherwise the cables constantly bruise the frame and their bend isn´t as smooth/desirable. Cables cross under the bottom tube then - in an X fashion - to end in correct orientation at the bottom bracket. Friction of crossing cables is neglectable. It also looks smooth as a design detail. My 2 cents. Keep up the good work!

[@ToastbrotRaver]

since you're a cannondale enthusiast and I have trouble finding the correct info online, do these 90s caad2 cannondales have cassette hubs as standard? I'm planning to convert an m400 to 1X to make it into a kind of an urban mtb and I'm not sure if the stock hub uses a cassette. I'd be really glad if you could help

[@el_micha]

@@ToastbrotRaver the oldest ones I worked on were 1995s and they definitely came with cassette hubs. For anything before I cant say myself. Be sure to check out vintagecannondale.com for details. They got old catalogs listing the spec of all models in the last pages...

[@el_micha]

U can also tell the production date of ur frame from its serial number (usually under the bottom bracket / remove the cable guide). vintagecannondale.com tells u how

[@ToastbrotRaver]

@@el_micha thanks a lot, I think it's a 1996, judging by the color in the catalogue. do you happen to know if a 10 speed cassette would fit the stock hub?

[@el_micha]

@@ToastbrotRaver Chances are u got 8 speed in the rear. If so then a 10-speed cassette fits on the hub. If u got 7-speed it won´t work. I´d highly recommend using 9-speed if ur not totally crazy for 10-speed or u got it already. Cheaper, easier to adjust and service + does the same, bcs ur smallest gear won´t get smaller and the biggest won´t get bigger with 10-speed... Further read here: www.sheldonbrown.com/k10.shtml Sheldon Brown is the mighty godfather of bike mechanics !

[@cavanaghhq]

Been a big help. Thankyou for another great tutorial. Wanted to put drop bars on for a while. Feel confident now. Cheers

[@rbmrobin]

Super clear and useful, thanks for that. Question : have you considered changing the wheels to 29" and would it have been possible?

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/eWjPg2aIZdWCkJo

[@jay-cg8ri]

That thing is sick. Maybe I'm just having crazy 1:30 am thoughts but I HAVE to do this.

[@takeshihonji3211]

I am Japanese, so please allow me to have difficulties commenting on your clip.I thought that this video could not be recommended to a bicycle custom beginner before this movie began for 30 seconds.At the beginning of the movie you are cutting a wire that has not been unfixed.It is an act that can injure you and damage the bicycle and reusable parts.The concepts and results of your videos are fun. I hope that the videos on bicycles are taken care of beginners and children's safety.

[@kwokchong3781]

great job RJ! This built reminds me of Vintage John Tomac set up from the 90s.

[@pdbike43]

Another great teaching video, RJ! I love the mix and matching. And stretching imagination that challenges status quo provokes interesting dialog amongst the viewers. A great learning experience. for me any many others. We owe you big time. Thanks! RJ, would this work as well with a suspension fork that has a locking mechanism?

[@tedhenry4446]

Hey....I love that you did this video and that you used that Cannondale frame. I converted my early 2000s Cannondale H300 (hybrid 700c bike with the same geometry as yours) to a fully loaded touring bike. Wide drop bars, bar end shifters, front and rear panniers, etc. and lots of upgrades to lighten the bike or improve performance: Thompson seat post, Surly front fork, wider range cassette, higher grade derailleurs, etc. Anyway, it worked out great with that frame. Did something similar with a early 80s Peugeot mountain bike (Japanese steel frame). The old 80s non-suspension steel MTB frames convert to solid touring bikes in my opinion.

[@WillEyedOney]

I'd like to see RJ take this baby for a spin. :)

[@DJEvil1st]

Honestly it need to happen every video.

[@OneTrueCat]

I have an old (mid 90s, I think?) Trek 820 hardnose mtb and an appropriately sized roadie friend looking for a gravel bike, so this is PERFECT. Thank you! 💜

[@cotara95]

this steep stem looks weird on complete bike with drop bars in my opinion but as always great video :)

[@1zanglang]

cotara95 On cyclocross bikes it is quite common to use high rise stems. And RJ mentioned it is a conversion to cyclocross bike, so nothig weird here.

[@cotara95]

I know but for me it will look much better with flat stem for example like this bike : www.cxmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/ellen-noble-focus-mares-2016-nationals-img_7471-cxmagazine-ay_1.jpg but of course it can be less comfortable and in terms of bike fit it can be worse so it depends I just said that for me it's weird

[@cotara95]

i don't think that using high aise stems on cyclocross bikes is common look on all of those bikes : www.google.pl/search?q=cyclocross+bike&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwii-v3Lpr3TAhUjQpoKHTR9CSoQ_AUICCgB&biw=1440&bih=770 and if you can find one with the high rise stem show me

[@1zanglang]

cotara95 Almost all cyclocross bikes shown in your link have positive rise stems, even if the rise is very short. I am not sure, I am not professional cyclist, but flat stems are used more on road bikes, probably for better aerodynamics. In cyclocross, positive rise could improve control, and aerodynamics are not paramount. RJ said that this bike would be used also for touring, which explains all. Also, commuter bikes use this kind of combination of road handlebars and high rise and ofte adjustable stems. My modified Merida T2 is just like that. Regards.

[@adrienpickard7767]

a flat stem (or a long stem) would probably throw off the geometry when moving from a flat bar to a drop bar. A shorter riser stem puts the hoods a little closer to the body, improving the reach distance so that it more closer resembles the flat bar position. You still have the drops to get more aero. I think this looks great! Monstercross!

[@tongwiang]

This is what I think it works and can be riden smoothly but people just don't like it. I am doing this some time in the future for sure. Because It costs less money to upgrade than to buy a brand new one. Thank you. You made it look easy.

[@hulyefasz7043]

It looks badass, great work!

[@richsantos4579]

Another great video. I posted a series of videos on my channel about a year ago with the struggles and successes building up an early 90s Giant ATX 770 steel frame/fork into a drop-bar tourer. You do a great job of making things concise. I had problems with a cyclocross 2x FD on the desired 3x mtb bb width. That Claris FD is a beast! Great video that should open up a lot of possibilities for viewers!

[@mitchmelton9145]

All the road bikers are looking at that stem and cringing

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

This isn't a road bike.

[@HaloTupolev]

Even if it *is* a road bike, MTB geometry often calls for weird stems when used with drop bars. I've got an early 80s Stumpy that I converted to drop bars, which I've used Compass tires to set up as a sort of road-worthy gravel bike. I've fit it with a 90-degree quill from an old touring bike, but when I'm on the rivet, my back is nearly flat.

[@joasburgers4676]

@Robert Trageser i am a roadie myself, and it is so true XD

[@robertadair6182]

Yep.

[@bananasstuff3344]

@Yard Sale Dale yes agreed. Absolutely!

[@petedoherty8297]

Hi RJ Just watched the above video with interest as I’ve just converted my mtb tandem to road spec with 700c wheels, calliper brakes and Sti shifters. The only problem I have is getting the front derailleur mech to move to the outer big chainring. The existing front mech is a Shimano mtb component which I now understand will not work owing to the difference in cable pull. What I can’t understand however is how a road mech would work since the bottom bracket on a mtb set up is longer and the cable pull ratio on sti levers wouldn’t be as great as trigger levers so surely they wouldn’t move the mech over as much as the they would.

[@Mainsail1975au]

Are you going to do a ride test video?

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Nope.

[@chancetheadventurer9408]

RJ The Bike Guy, All your videos are extremely helpful and professional. I have watched many and you have helped me a great deal. Thank You . Awesome

[@bikelifesam7599]

Great video but the stem looks weird in my opinion👍🏽

[@se7ensnakes]

I just did this! And I was looking for a video to see how other people have done it but found none. Now all of a sudden this video pop-up, and I am mad that I did not find this video sooner...

[@tiojaime9126]

Look's awesome!!😀

[@ericshovein4584]

Thanks for posting this. I wish I saw it earlier. I put Claris shifters on my bike and was trying mtb derailleurs. I ended up adding a Jtek7 to make it compatible with my 22/32/42 crank. Seems like I should've just gotten the Shimano Claris derailleur, that said it's really hard to find a Claris triple clamp on front derailleur. Most seem to be braze on.

[@LOLWTF222]

Diet Mountain Dew?! you must have guests over or something.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

That belongs to Mrs. Bike Guy.

[@ekw77]

The Mrs. has good taste. :)

[@raymachado4481]

He’s not running out of Pepsi soon!

[@ollieb9875]

I did this more or less to my Cannondale.. only it took me about 3 years 🙃 cheers boss. 👍🙂

[@serega1302]

Doe's anyone tryed to ride converted MTB to road bike? This video is just "how to", but absolutely not practical. Frame geometry so different MTB vs road bike. Top tube much longer (for medium MTB it about 565mm to 580mm for medium road bike about 530mm to 555mm). Small size MTB (which look like an answer) also have different geometry. By riding converted MTB will be guaranteed back pain, arms and so on. How do I know? Because I did it while ago (my most stupid idea).

[@adrienpickard7767]

I did it, too. The reach was so long, I had to give up on it.

[@1zanglang]

I did, I used a Cannondale Trail Five 29er 2013 frame, which was size L, and I put a Suntour Swing Shock fork on it. The frame size which fits me on my Merida T2 bike is 47cm, which means S. At the time I didn't take into consideration the length of the top tube and the huge difference between road and MTB geometry, but only the seat tube height. And when I rode the newly built Cannondale, I realized I barely reach the bars. Riding on drops was a torture, and I had shoulders and neck ache, and my wrists became numb after only one hour ride. Then I learned my lesson, I bought that Merida and transferred all the components between these two frames, except the forks, and sold the Cannondale.

[@cup_and_cone]

You're right. You can convert road bikes to flat bars pretty easy, but not mountain bikes to drop bars. Flat bar road bike frames are very similar geometry to standard drop bar road bikes, but MTB frames are very different - they have very high stack and longer reach. You need the shortest negative rise stem you can find and compact bars to get into a similar riding position.

[@1zanglang]

thechosendude Yes, I have an OnOff Stoic overhead stem, left from that Cannondale "experiment" of mine...

[@simonbailey2151]

Yes, and there are ways round the geometry issues you correctly mention. Zero-offset post and a shorter higher rise stem are two of the best, plus avoiding an MTB with a super long top tube in the first place. WRT practicality, I would strongly disagree. With an old(ish) MTB converted to drops you have a go-anywhere, do-anything set up for gravel, trails, commuting, light touring with racks, heck throw on a pair of skinny tyres and you could probably hang with a group ride. YMMV.

[@michelecanci1515]

Great result, you're my guru now for this type of rebuilds. I hope I would do the same with mine mtb. Thank you so much

[@georgelavin511]

in my opinion.......looks horrible.....sorry, is just what I think

[@ooDirtyMickoo]

yeah, but how does it work? dont be so vain

[@brucec43]

Aren't you the dandy? Who cares what a freaking bicycle looks like. It's a converted bike, not a Porsche.

[@recycled3654]

Some getting used to but they are really pretty comfortable once you've fitted the stem and post to fit your particular body type. I would certainly suggest getting a frame a size larger that your normal MTB size so you don't feel too cramped in.

[@pacscorner]

Or you can buy a longer stem and call it a day..

[@robertmartian]

yeah, it looks very unbalanced and not a good ride. the one thing i noticed first was how awkward the stem to bar to break levers measurements were. beyond the overall product, the process with all the detailed info was great. thanks r.j.! love your vids!

[@Da.Onus.Burger.618]

Did this myself about 3 years ago with a similar C-Dale mtb. I use this bike primarily for Zwift, but it’s a great “ride around the neighborhood/city bike as well after putting some slick road tires on it. Good job, btw!

[@roguishowl3915]

A very informative and clear conversion tutorial. Thanks for this video RJ, was searching for a while today looking for this exact type of conversion. Brilliant job mate big 👍🏻 from me.

[@drlest717]

I think it looks totally cool! I have a 1992 Cannondale SM800 Beast of the East and I'm going to do this to it!!

[@Bearded.Wonder]

Taking the complex and simplifying it. Thx, RJ! 👍🏼

[@andrewvautour1795]

I want to do EXACTLY this to my Mountain bike. I mostly ride it when I am camping and never enjoyed the straight bar config. Thanks a lot, I was not sure if I would need to change my brake calipers or not so this helped a lot. I thought of getting an adjustable stem (110mm / 0~60) to offset the drop and give me a little extension. Great vid thanks!

[@rustysmoviecollectibles5875]

Looks great 👍 looking to do the same project! I have a regular road bike but been waiting to pick up a used mountain bike and put drop bars on!

[@G-man45444]

I really wish this video was around years ago. I took my 1993 Rocky Mountain stratos and put drop bars on it and used Gevenalle shifters which are old school friction shifters. Now years later I am going to put on some 3X7 index shifters !!

[@phenomkrumper]

Nothing bad to say here. Just a guy in his garage, barefoot, building cool bicycles. Cheers.

[@jimihenrik11]

I searched for this because i was thinking about converting my old mountainbike (20+ yo) to something like a gravel bike. I thought i would be enough to change the handle bar, shifters and cables but this video showed me, that i defnitly don't want to spend that much money for a project that's supposed to be nothing but fun.

[@thelonerider5644]

Very cool! I did this some years ago on an old Bridgestone mtb. Wish I still had it, it was great for riding on the road and then just randomly going into the dirt trails and access roads for the hell of it.

[@markevans506]

Excellent video! Well explained and good filming angles. I plan on converting my MTB to a gravel bike and this showed me how easy it can be done. Thanks!!

[@johngreene6783]

RJ - Great video. What kind of bars are those? I really like the angle of the bars below the levers. That type seems to be hard to find at my local bike shops

[@ShermanSitter]

I love drop bars! Thank you for helping to educate the community to convert!

[@larsschlepper7583]

Schönes Bike! Bin zufällig auf diesen Post gestoßen, nachdem ich mein CAD1 im letzten Jahr fertig hatte;) Da hatten wir beiden wohl den gleichen Sinn für den Umbau eines sehr schönen Cannondale Youngtimer Klassikers!

[@RyanMarcyesOutdoors]

Very Cool!! Going to do this to my 1989 TREK 830!!! Thanks!!! Remember to Live-Life-Loud!!!

[@johnpossum556]

As usual a beautiful job and a nice increase in safety and modernization. Though honestly that ride position would kill me the next day. I still ride a vintage 70s bike like it was an offroad bike mostly due to continental and armadillo high pressure kevlar tires. Been doing it for decades now.

[@stachecrafted]

Beautiful build!! Glad to see I am not the only one with this idea!!

[@jige8191]

I am currently building the same bike using a genuine Decathlon rockrider of the middle of the 90's. It's made with crmo steel. I will fit the same rsx levers with the stx groupset.

[@greenhammer1148]

This is a super clear instructional video.

[@thesoultraderd413]

Awesome video! Just what I needed. I am about to start working on a Cannondale conversion.

[@simonbailey2151]

Nice work RJ - the C´dale looked a good candidate for a drop bar conversion. I would maybe have used a zero-setback post to reduce the effective top tube length some more, but until you see a rider on it I suppose it´s impossible to tell whether it fits or not. In the past I´ve had to sand rust off the frame cantilever studs with a bit of fine-grade sandpaper when replacing or swapping V-brakes. Obviously it wasn´t the case here though.

[@MrLuigi-oi7gm]

Wow! Nice job. Great video work too. So nice to be able to clearly see everything.

[@luigipod]

It might be useful to add a barrell adjuster, one of those in line with the cables, just for the front derailleur. Great Job!

[@jgcamp99]

When I did the math on converting my 1997 Fuji MX-200 to gravel/touring bike, I realized the 26x2.10 tires were really the only items I wanted to change. I went with Continental Tour Rides 26x1.75. Look at Salsa gravel bike specs and Co-Motion's Pangea for touring bike. My tires are 47-559 ISO, most gravel bikes go 700x35-44c. So I have a little fatter gravel tire that really does asphalt touring well. Touring bike, the 26x1.75 is a little skinny for what the Pangea 26er uses, mine came with 26x2.10 knobbies, which is what Co-Motion comes as OEM standard at 26x2.0-2.10. Handlebars are cyclist preference and I decided to spend on tires only and keep the components that still work fine after 20 years. Anyway, pleased with the bike with the tire swap. It also rides greenways with the new Tour Rides, but without knobbies, the softer sand and higher level trails aren't it's strongest utility use. Without suspension though, what older vintage ATB/MTB really is the right bike for the more difficult terrain vs a modern MTB ? Too funny, testing it yesterday for the first time, the new tires handle new road & repaved construction gravel fine, exactly as I thought it would, but I found a gravel driveway that was deep and really loose and these tires just knifed and sunk into that gravel, the 26x2.10 knobbies would have too. I can't imagine how a 700x35-44c tire would have rode thru it at all. If you really want an all terrain bike, fat bike is the best thing for the loosest and softest terrain. Otherwise, there are trade offs to every type of bike, because the fat bike is going to be considerably slower than the MTB (1.95-2,3) & MTB plus (2.3-3") width tires. This video was a good conversion for those that want to replace more than just tires. The tires in this video are still too fat and big knobby for what I consider a gravel or gravel racer. The converted bikes weight will reflect that. Mine still weighs around 28+ lbs. A gravel racer is going to be closer to 20 lbs, a gravel bike around 25 lbs. My bike has the 1" threaded steerer, so to convert that to threadless I would need a 1" threadless. Some bikes are easier to convert, they all can be, but you may be chasing the next solution and components to get something you may not like as much ?

[@63xoph]

Super helpful video. Exactly what I was wondering how to do.

[@LJ-rz4zg]

Just found your channel,easy step by step guide.....thank you .

[@MrNotubo]

Well done friend, i like the way you show the work...

[@BikeItUK]

Great Video as always! Great crossover DIY solution for a all terrain touring bike. All the best Andy

[@downloaderbyproxy93]

when I used to install front derailhurs (forgive me for the spellings) I used to put a bit of black tape on the frame to protect it scratches, also very good in-depth video keep up the good work RJTheBikeGuy