Amiga to VGA | GBS-8220 Review (CGA/EGA/YUV to VGA)

[@RMCRetro]

Thank you for watching I hope this helps you with your purchasing decisions! Please see further links in the description of others findings and modifications, and I'll be sharing a mod episode very soon. Overall I'm impressed for the price, and we don't want to spend too much time or money on modding it as every £ closes the gap to the more expensive legitimate solutions out there. If you have an alternative method I'd love to hear your thoughts and experiences. Neil - RMC

[@boherrmannsen8219]

about YUV.... you are not quite right but close did a quick google and found this link that explains it reasonble for laymen: www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/55165/yuv

[@boherrmannsen8219]

My dad is more in to this and i remember that he explained it as a signal that transfers the colours except blue and that the screen do the looking at what is missing ie the transmitting end sends say 20% red and 70% green... the screen then knows that blue was 10%

[@Craft4Cube]

Where did you get the DB-23, i can't find it anywhere.

[@JamesMaszMuzak]

I currently use the RGB->SCART->HDMI solution and find it barely passable (input lag and problems with aspect ratio at interlaced modes, at least with my particular 16:9 LED monitor) Watching this was indeed helpful, but I think I'm going to splurge for an OSSC which for the inflated cost, doesn't suffer from the noise and artifacting and like the GBBS board, can use it on a variety of machines. A+ video as usual, thanks!

[@electronash]

Craft4Cube There are actually quite a few on eBay UK right now, but shhhhh, don't tell anyone. :p www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23-WAY-D-DB23-D23-DB23F-DB23M-CONNECTOR-SOCKET-PLUG/362047168375?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=631292478000&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 You need the female connector if you want to plug into the RGB / Video port on the back of the Amiga. Or the male connector if you want to hook something up to the floppy drive port. I would recommend grabbing a few of each type, because they don't appear for sale very often.

[@martinminnock989]

Awesome video! Glad to see the A500 getting the love it deserves and being kept running with up to date parts and peripherals. Please keep making these vids.

[@simondahlstrom7482]

My dad was cleaning up in my parents storage unit and found a bunch of old computers. He turned into a kid and wanted me to check if it is possible to run these old systems. Thanks for the video!

[@RMCRetro]

That's really nice to hear, I hope you get them working for him

[@Stennifer]

Back in the old days, we used to use scan rate doubler circuits to bring the hsync up to 31khz. Worked a treat with CRT's & only took a few minutes to make.

[@DubiousEngineering]

Very informative, entertaining and technical video... as always! Thumbs up 👍!!!

[@kevg3563]

Great video. I bought one and couldn't figure out the pin-outs until I saw this video so thanks.

[@StanleyKubick1]

Your videos are always of the highest quality and engrossing. Cheers from Iceland!

[@RMCRetro]

Thank you Ace. Iceland is a place I'd love to visit some day it looks amazing

[@TheGuruMeditation]

Brilliant video RMC. Top quality production values as always and awesome info. It is really sad to see the CRT's go. I do everything possible to save mine. I just spent $250 getting my 1084 fixed, but I feel it was worth every penny. Nothing brings back the experience like a CRT, but it is amazing how you can get even better quality (with no flicker) out of these old machines with things like scan doublers. Personally, I skip the whole VGA route and just go HDMI because all of my modern monitors have Display Port or HDMI - no VGA. VGA is already feeling retro to me, but it is a good solution if you have the space for a VGA monitor to dedicate to your Amiga. BTW, I absolutely love that clear plastic monitor shelf you have there! AMIGA4EVER -- Bill

[@RMCRetro]

Thanks Bill! Yes calling my LCD a "modern monitor" is a bit of a stretch but it's all relative. There is also a HDMI version of this board but I haven't tested it and it's a bit more expensive. Every penny is a penny I could spend on a Vampire when it goes over a certain price. If your 1084 gets another 10 years out of that price then I'd say its money well spent :D

[@electronash]

Damn, Bill, If I was over in the US, I would have fixed your monitor for free. lol I still want to get hold of a CM8833 MKII as well at some point. It was my monitor for my Amiga and Archie in the early 90s, as well as doubling as my main TV until about 1996. Did your 1084 need a new flyback or something? That's quite a lot to spend on a repair tbh, but I'm guessing they did a full recap as well? Ash.

[@TheGuruMeditation]

Oh sweet. I would like to see the HDMI version. That could be good for me. Sadly the OSCC is not compatible with my modern 4K monitors or capture card. The cheap Chinese wonder box works well, but I wouldn't mind something with better picture quality.

[@TheGuruMeditation]

Ahhhh yeah Ash, next time I will just fly you over to NY! Yes, they re-capped the power supply and had to replace the yolk. Apparently it was difficult for them to get a new yolk. They were back-ordered in China or something. I agree it was expensive, the parts probably cost a fraction of that, but at least it goes to supporting a local TV repair shop. Amazing that they even still exist!

[@srfrg9707]

The Guru Meditation I had one and the soldering job was terrible. I had to press the chip down in order to get all colors working. Reflowing the board ended killing it. Cheap but cheap indeed.

[@demoscenes]

Awesome overview! I have the very same model and been *thinking* to try this with my Amiga and Atari. But never really got around. Now, you've done what I *thought* of and I see a very promising result and solutions to the artifacts too. Thank you very much :)

[@RMCRetro]

You're welcome, let me know how you get on with it

[@cheater00]

The picture here is so good. I love how the background is really colorful, but the center has a more mellow, low-CRI light that gives the items a warm, retro look.

[@electronash]

There are a few known issues with the GBS board, as you've seen on Ian's blog. The PCB layout is less than ideal, and that causes sparkly dots on some boards, especially with a 50 Hz video input. My first board was quite bad, so I did the mod where you cut the trace for the SDRAM clock, the solder on a resistor and cap (RC filter), which fixed the dots problem completely. I think it might also work to reduce the SDRAM speed slightly as well (as you mentioned), but that involves modifying some register valus via I2C, so you have to have something like an Arduino permanently hooked up. There is another project on the shmups forum for connecting a Rasp Pi to do a similar thing, but also to enable a true 240p / 288p mode, as the GBS tends to try to deinterlace an already-progressive input signal, which can cause really bad artifacting with some systems. Using a Rasp Pi for configuring a few GBS registers is huge overkill tbh. An Arduino or ESP8266 would do the job fine. The GBS boards also have issues with sync, and requires an external LM1881 sync separator for some consoles. Also, the "arcade" style connector is likely adding to the noise, as there is only one ground path, and the RGB wires are obviously unshielded. So yeah, they can be quite good scaler boards for the money, but can take a lot of tweaking to get right. lol There is a version with HDMI output btw, but I haven't tested one, and imagine it might have similar issues on the input side unless they have tweaked the design already.

[@RMCRetro]

Thanks for sharing your experiences Ash. The follow up episode will be interesting when parts arrive, it's going to be a fine balance between a cheap fix and "is this really worth the parts and time, just buy a more premium product". We shall see!

[@electronash]

I went to the effort of even designing a new PCB for the scaler chip on the GBS (TrueView chip). It would have had a SCART socket, and both VGA and HDMI output... imgur.com/a/dL9bh But, I then found an even better solution, but I've yet to finish the board design for it. The new scaler board has HDMI, VGA, Composite, Component, and analog RF tuner, and works with every one of my retro consoles / computers that I've thrown at it. The latency seems to be relatively low, and there are no obvious issues with noise or artifacts that I could see. I need to finish the board which will convert the output to HDMI and RGB / VGA. and then it will definitely be a very good alternative to the GBS board, but still at quite a low price (sub £50, at least).

[@RMCRetro]

That sounds very interesting indeed Ash I'd be interested in testing it out in the cave if you'd ever like me to :D

[@electronash]

You're right though - doing the various mods to the GBS boards can be a pain, and possibly not worth it in the long run, as it might be a case of diminishing returns. I'm normally OK with soldering, but it was still a tad annoying having to do the RC mod. lol imgur.com/a/3y8TH Or, you can do the mod to add some copper tape to the back of the board, which is essentially adding some capacitance without having to cut the trace and do the RC mod. (Mr GadgetUK164 did a great video on the copper tape mod.) In fairness though, the GBS boards can still be pretty good for the money, and are even cheaper on places like AliExpress for people who don't mind waiting a while for delivery. It's just that the GBS can be fussy with certain consoles (like the MD / Genny, and SNES), and does have issues syncing to some machines. The image on your vid looks quite good tbh (aside from the obvious noise etc.). Normally when I've seen the GBS used with an Amiga, there is some terrible interlacing artifacts going on, even when the Amiga is outputting 240p / 288p, so maybe it's the VGA monitor that people are using? Or, it's possible they have updated the firmware on the newer GBS-8220 etc., so it handles progressive inputs better?

[@electronash]

AndehX Hi, I've actually abandoned the idea of doing the new PCB design for the scaler chip used on the GBS boards, as I found the alternative. I still need to make a PCB for that though, which converts the output to HDMI + RGB. I don't want to give to much away about the new scaler, as people will kick themselves when they find out what it's based on. :p It should be possible to create custom firmware for it though, and I have some source code already, but I don't know for sure if it will be possible to bypass the scaler's framebuffer for a low-latency line-double mode etc. It at least seems to handle all my retro consoles and computers just fine, even the Intellivision and other machines via RF (without drifting off frequency or anything).

[@Rip-Van-Tinkle]

I love you Neil, in a purely platonic, awkwardly uncomfortable, man hug sort of way :-) Very much looking forward to part 2!

[@RMCRetro]

I love you too Pete, firm handshakes and back pats

[@Rip-Van-Tinkle]

RetroManCave Haha, mutual nod of appreciation.

[@SproutyPottedPlant]

Too hetero for your own good!

[@GlensRetroShow]

Happy to have been some assistance 😎

[@Petertronic]

I have one of these boards in an arcade machine that had the CRT replaced with an LCD monitor, the interference problem is terrible, especially on saturated colours. Much tweaking and settings experimentation didn't help much. Unfortunately higher quality scan converters are expensive! I was thinking of getting the Open Source Scan Converter. I didn't know about mods for the GBS board, I will look into that. Excellent video!

[@16bitgium]

Excellent video, had one of these in the cupboard for years. Looking forward to the follow up video!

[@itsaPIXELthing]

Pretty interesting solution! And a great video! Thank you :)

[@RMCRetro]

It's a Pixel THING cheers Pixel

[@knoxieman]

Superb video thanks for sharing :-)

[@RMCRetro]

+knoxieman you're welcome thanks for watching

[@coversum]

Sincerely hope you are doing a CM8833 II repair episode on that flyback transformer. Mine (a MKI, though) died a week ago - with the exact same symptoms. Just after I restored my old Amiga 500 with help of your "trash to treasure" episodes and upgrading it with a gotek. I since then use a SCART to HDMI converter. Works like a charm.

[@doskungen]

I'm using a BenQ BL702A 17" 5:4 aspect monitor with a simple VGAAmiga RGB Adapter. Works perfectly with 15 Khz too! Silky smooth sideways scrolling and great colors (settings need to be tweaked and possibly differs between Amiga models(?) )

[@TekTherapy]

Same here, basically moved my Amiga, FM Towns, X68000 and even Atari MegaST to an Benq912 / 702 for me personally it´s a much better option than the GBS-8220. Still got two 21" CRT´s around. But i have so much crap space is always an issue.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks for the link btw =D =D

[@BakedPrawns]

This is something I’d never have the need to use but I enjoyed watching all the same 👍🏼

[@101SynTec]

Thanks for the overview. Just started using my Amiga 1200 again. First thing is to recap it and then get this board.

[@RMCRetro]

I used used it recently with a Jaguar and a Falcon in combination with a sync stripper to good effect. You can find it in my recent videos. I've also been using it with an Amstrad CPC. I'll review the sync stripper soon as it's a really handy little device

[@101SynTec]

RetroManCave looking forward to that review!

[@joeclarkey]

I have the exact same Phillips crt that I use with my 600, sadly I two encountered the dying space invader sound only a few weekd ago! I look forward to your investigations into a fix. Love the channel as well.

[@retrobsolete7491]

Very informative as always, thanks!

[@JAKDK-dh3us]

Had one (monitor) just like it for my A500... Thanks for the trip down memory lane.

[@memadmax69]

I know that sound that ur monitor was making, I used a hairdryer to preheat the monitor and after about 15 minutes then got it to start up. ... But I would rather have LCD anyday however anyways lol Excellent vid as always, TY.

[@RMCRetro]

I have news for you, I'm not a man who needs a hairdryer :D Interesting though it would be a good test to easily prove the source of the fault. Maybe I'll get the heat gun out.

[@memadmax69]

Oustanding, I wish you well in ur endeavor =P

[@tomypower4898]

Yes ther information is given!

[@rossdag4232]

I LIKE YOUR VID I ALSO TRIED IAN STEDMAN WIRING FOR THE GB2 220 TO AMIGA 500 AND IT WORKED PERFECTELY THAANKS FOR VID ....

[@TheSmarsden]

Great video as always. I have the same Phillips CM8833-II with exactly the same problem as you demonstrated, so looking forward to see if you post a video on that repair. In the meantime have bought a GBS-8220 to hook up to an old 17" IIYAMA CRT monitor. CRT's are always better, even though I have an NEC MultiSync LCD1970NXp which will sync down to 15.6 KHz, but looks too dull. On Amiga 1200 by the way, currently using SCART on old 14" TV's. Keep up the great work. :)

[@RDJ134]

Great video, learned a lot (again) :)

[@SpeedySPCFan]

The GBS is an interesting little board, but I haven't used mine since I got a better scaler for Component vido. I had tons of video quality issues, including color banding, distortion, and poor color, and I know there's a fix for some of those but I'm not the greatest at soldering. Perhaps sometime I'll go back, fix it, and sell it for a couple more dollars or keep it as a backup. Also 3:04 the YUV inputs are for Component video. YUV, even though it's different from YPbPr/Component, was sometimes used as a label for it which is technically incorrect.

[@Checkmate1500]

Very useful video, thanks.

[@FireballXL55]

I would be suprised if it was a FBT failure just like that, I have repaired numerous of these monitors and not had to replace the FBT. Check the resistance across the large transistor connected to the FBT, 7512 also the diode 6517. Don't just replace them check the PSU voltage and capacitor 2517.

[@RMCRetro]

Thanks for the tips, my diagnosis was purely anecdotal based on some friends experiences and symptoms so I proper look into things is needed. I'll certainly test those out you may have saved me a lot of time!

[@HarryMudd]

I would guess that some kind of shielding would completely eliminate the interference

[@bitwize]

That's a cool mod! I just picked up an Amiga 500, so this could come in real handy.

[@princess_daphie]

i'm really happy to be seeing your vid today as i've been thinking of buying such a board to have a better looking solution for my atari st. i have a low-sync compatible monitor on hand and a cable from the uk that converts the atari st connector to a vga + audio out, and it works, but my monitor isn't perfect and the horizontal resolution is squished no matter the adjustments!!!

[@RMCRetro]

+DJ Marchand if you check the channel GadgetUK164 he tests this board out with his Atari so that might also help you make a decision

[@EdgyNumber1]

That flyback transformer... is that what some techs call 'the frame?' I remember I had an old Philips TV and the picture collapsed into a horizontal bar across the screen. Speaking to the telly-tech, and watching what he was doing, he tapped a box that looked like a small transformer on one of the PCBs and said 'the frame' needed replacing. Just a thought....

[@billhall1983]

I have fixed many of these monitors over the years. The line output transformer does fail. It fails with a short between winding. Its a long time now since I did any and can't remember the place that made new transformers or if they are still doing them. Those transformer I never had one fail after replacing it unlike the originals. I think there must have been inter-winding stress that caused the insulation to breakdown over time. Another problem with the 500 power supplies which I fixed for a few people was that the pcb would crack across a corner resulting in the regulator not working and giving out 45 volts on the 5 volt line. When this happened there were two loud bangs, an electrolytic capacitor in the floppy drive and one on the main board. Amazingly, after these were replaced and the power supply fixed the Amiga still worked

[@travistaylor3186]

I use the GBS to use old 80s word processors that require external displays. It’s a life saver at that price, mine’s in a 3D printed case and I use a small 5v adapter

[@smiljanicn]

That plexy stand!

[@RMCRetro]

I'm plexy and I know it

[@rkupka]

thanks for the review.

[@RMCRetro]

Thanks for watching Robo

[@RanHam]

I'm having a problem that I can't keep it to lock in the vertical sync. It keeps scrolling. Other than that the picture is clean

[@JimLeonard]

The bottom of the image is cut off when showing Nexus 7. Size should have been left at 50. When I did Amiga captures for a 2006 DVD, I used deluxepaint to create some test patterns for calibration; this worked way better than games. You might want to do the same for best results.

[@Typewriter71]

Hi Neil, any chance you might update this video (again) for the GBS control modifications? Hooking old kit up to new monitors remains an ongoing - and sometimes - expensive headache - so diving a bit deeper into this solution a few years in would be awesome.

[@theloseph]

I have one of these in my SLG-in-a-box. I use it for games machine that use scart and component. Having it output with VGA to my 36 inch CRT.

[@vext01]

Looking forward to seeing how well you manage to get this working! I've been using a cheapy RGB scart cable to a TV with my amigas. Works, but not ideal. Cheers

[@dannycivic02]

Hi Neil, sorry not related I really like the perspex stand you have in this video does it fit the amiga 1200 underneath all the ones I seem to find are only 470mm and the 1200 is a good 500mm, where did you source yours? Thanks and great video as always!

[@RMCRetro]

Hey there Danny, thank you. I found this stand here www.display-stands-uk.com/contents/en-uk/d332_Acrylic-plinths.html

[@YAORG]

Since I struggled with an A520 still in 2017, I got me the "small" GBS with only one VGA-output. It doesn't work ootb, since I have to mess around in the settings, until I get a picture, every time I connect the power supply. I use it on an older 15"-LCD-TV with VGA, where the A520 was connected before, and I'm very pleased with the output. I wonder if it's possible to make a VGA->Amiga cable to connect the GBS, instead of the provided harness!? I could then eventually put the GBS into the TV-housing, dremel the holes for the outputs of the board, since it seems big enough to fit a whole A500-board in there...

[@thatguyontheright1]

RMC. I have the same scan doubler. I found that modifying a VGA cable or using a DB-15 to VGA adapter like Amiga Kit sells seems to help with the distortion. It seems you are lacking shielding.

[@moshly64]

Using that header with unshielded wire will cause artifacts, this screws up the lines 75ohm impedance allowing interference. (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_line). Simpler just to cut up an old VGA cable and wire it to the D23 & make sure you connect each RGB's corresponding GND,. Also mounting the module in its own shielded box may help.

[@RMCRetro]

that's a good idea RE the VGA cable, I'm sure I can find an old one kicking around for ep 2, thanks for the suggestion

[@Daz5Daz]

Surprised we have not seen a Kickstarter yet for a 17" CRT monitor with a tonne of connection options to allow all devices from the 70s to the 90s to work at their best.

[@KuraIthys]

Interesting solution. Has some obvious issues, but it's cheap, and it works, so that's not too bad. I am amassing quite a lot of systems at this point that output 15 khz RGB, or at least one of the S-video predecessors. I don't have all the cabling for them, but more importantly I don't have the display for it. While I was in the UK I at least had a TV with RGB scart input, but I couldn't take it with me to Australia, and even though we used to have 'euro' connectors on plenty of televisions, (that's what SCART was called), nowadays I struggle to find anything that still has such a connector. The issues are obvious, but that it's a cheap, workable solution... Yeah... I mean, so far I have this problem with: -RGB output on SNES and Super Famicom. -RGB output on Mega Drive -The native s-video like output on my 800XL (even though the chroma output isn't wired up for some bizarre reason) -The RGB output that my 800XL will have once I fit the VBXL/VBXE module. And I would like to get an Amiga at some point, so that's also going to end up having this issue. Would be nice to get some kind of solution here, even if it's ultimately a stopgap or backup solution...

[@chip1gray]

I got one of these a few years back and mine is awful there is a non stop shaking in the screen that give me awful head aches ive tried different things to fix it including a ferrite bead on the cable but to no avail. Watching this makes me want to get another one and see if it dos the same,great video.

[@RMCRetro]

+chip1gray Thanks love your avatar. I understand the gbs8200 has more problems than the 8220

[@chip1gray]

+RetroManCave didn't realise there was a new revision, I'll have to check it out. Keep up the great work

[@anthony-mv7ey]

Hello, Great video Retromancave. Question: why do you need 3.3V instead of 5V. As far I can see the pcb says 5V on your video.I bought also the gbs 8220 v3.0 and it says on the pcb 5V, too. So how did you find out to use 3.3V .

[@squeak83uk2]

That music takes me back...

[@mrwebber35]

Great details but I am not clear on why you didn't need the vertical sync only the horizontal sync. Can you or someone explain that better?

[@michaelsworkshop9031]

I had that same PHILIPS / MAGNAVOX monitor back in the day on my Apple IIgs -- it was awesome. How did the capacitors look on the boards inside it when you took it apart? Failing capacitors can also give you a high pitched whine like that in some cases.

[@RMCRetro]

The caps didn't look too bad, no signs of dulled legs or leaking. I have another system to refurb with some noisy caps on the logic board so I know where you're coming from. Hopefully I'll get that fixed up soon.

[@krankymann]

I'd love it if you also got a hold of an ST and used it in these scenarios as well - i know they weren't as popular but just as interesting.

[@IvanSchmulich]

Thank you

[@amithlon.]

👍👍👍 i love Amiga..my fawori A1200 ..

[@jamieh9351]

A cheaper alternative that may suit some people: I bought an Amiga RGB to SCART cable on ebay from retro computer shack. Works really well - far superior to the RF modulator. They also sell cables for the commodore 16, Plus/4 and C64 machines.

[@jamieh9351]

And if anyone still has the ZX Spectrum, there's a super simple mod you can do to make it output composite video instead of RF video. It's on retrogamescollector.com

[@ChristianKoehler77]

I have bought a new TV a few weeks ago (in Germany). It has HDMI, WiFi, KZbin and all the things you expect today. But it still has SCART! If you have the right cables it works with all those old computers/ consoles via RGB. Even 60 Hz (ntsc) modes work.

[@RMCRetro]

Lots of positive comments here about SCART so that sounds like a nice option to explore for sure (if I ever get a modern TV in the cave)

[@ChristianKoehler77]

RetroManCave It was a good option to connect C64, Amiga, PlayStation and even early dvd players to TVs in the 80s and 90s. I did not expect to find it on a 2018 TV....

[@amirpourghoureiyan1637]

I bet you could just add insulated wires to the cable instead to get rid of the noise, that fix always worked with composite video wires as the thinner ones gave a terrible image quality

[@TheDasFaust]

I'm still attempting to sort out hooking up a Commodore 128 via GBS to get 80 col on a VGA monitor, and same with an Apple IIgs Woz, and an Atari 520ST case that I put a 520STFM in with the extra RAM.

[@stephenrowley4171]

Worth checking out the GBS-C mod to improve the GBS-C several fold.

[@DavidLoo]

My Philips CRT Monitor just died on me today, and came across your video while researching on the internet. I have the exact problem. No video output, just a loud spinning noise. I left my monitor on last night and this morning I heard the noise. I tried powering off and on again, still the same. So right now I am looking at making or buying a RGB to VGA adapter.

[@misteragony]

Personally I have used an old VCR or a harddisk recording machine I had laying around. I connect the amiga on the video input (scart for example), and from the harddisk recorder over hdmi to my monitor.

[@johandenhertog6878]

There are so many ways to connect a AMIGA. Got my AMIGA 500 to a BenQ BL702A 17 inch VGA monitor. With a Indivision ECS V1 with the Super Denise 8373. You must get the right settings with the monitor and the ScreenMode and Overscan. For my AMIGA games it’s perfect. For the AMIGA 1200 the BenQ BL912 19 inch monitor with a RGB/VGA adapter is great. I want the 50Hz PAL Laced 15.6KHz because i want the same as my deceased Commodore 1084S-P1 RGB CRT monitor.

[@EXITMUSIC2011]

There's another smaller white cable that comes with the board, is this used? Hard to see on your video.

[@morphshag]

I have the GBS-8200 and I get a lot of white and red speckles. In saying that I’m possibly running it at 800x600. I’ll drop the resolution and see if that helps. I see you tried the Syncmaster 710n too in the hope it has the right internals to sync to 15khz? I bought one recently for the same reason.

[@Lilithe]

Have you tried running the cable out of the Amiga through a ferrite core or two? Or maybe shielding the device? That looks like pretty common RF interference, really. But you're using RGB out of the back of the Amiga so that doesn't make sense. I wonder if an opto-isolator for each of the R, G, and B channels would help?

[@RMCRetro]

Yes indeed you'll see ferrite cores and other methods in the follow up episode

[@MrFixer1983]

Cool video, i'm using a GBS-8220. I dith a white sparks fix and I use a scan dubbler (scanline maker) it looks great. But some times the image a bit unstable, I need to fix that.

[@RMCRetro]

+DaFixer Thanks, which method did you use for the sparkles?

[@treguard1982]

Someone said that there's a new Acer monitor that's come out that although not advertising it, does support 15khz. I don't know the model though

[@AdamPigg]

Have you considered an RGB-scart cable? Looks beautiful and crisp even at interlaced hires on my 1200 hooked up to an old Samsung 40" TV, though it didn't work on an older LG, even though it claimed to support RGB in one of the scart sockets.

[@RMCRetro]

Interesting idea. The only TV I have with Scart is a CRT, an old Sony Trinitron, but it's good to know that's an option

[@AdamPigg]

The cables are on amigakit, and cheaper than eBay, complete with hacksawed 25pin connector! Think even my 4k TV still has scart...I should try it on that one 😀

[@GabrielAndroczky]

Where did you manage to source a 23-pin D-SUB connector? I'm desperately looking for some :)

[@RMCRetro]

Here you go goo.gl/Tdio5d

[@GabrielAndroczky]

Yeeeeeah! I ordered 5 pieces right away :) Thanks!!

[@ptrwiv]

None left now and can't find any around at all :(

[@DasMrOSi]

You could try using shielded cables and rf beads on both sides of the cable

[@BenHelweg]

OSSC is a more expensive option that will allow HDMI / DVI at scaled or line doubled/tripled resolutions.

[@amerigocosta7452]

I just wonder if there is any noticeable input lag with this method. That would be a deal breaker to me.

[@RMCRetro]

Amerigo Costa none that I've noticed but there is that extra step so there must be some perceptible or not. I'll let you know in pt2 when I've had more time playing on it

[@Birdy2b]

Hello friend, I love your tuto.. I'm a french guy. I follow your video with great interest but I have only ONE question: What about the YELLOW cable ? It's plugged on GBS, but the other side ?? Thanks.

[@hellhammerCCCP]

OMG I recognized that amiga OST at 03:20

[@RMCRetro]

Final Fight. Sweet memories. The Amiga OST was really faithful to the arcade

[@pierreschmidt271]

I was trying to figure out how nicely does deinterlacing perform through watching your video. Seems there is not that much combing. However, the mouser pointer seems to drag some square shape around which erases the background it is passing onto. Unless it is just a you tube replay artifact...

[@Fraspe]

I had the same problem on my 1084s, a high pitched noise and no picture on the screen. The flyback transformer had died :-/ I bought a replacement from donberg.ie and the monitor is working like a champ now :-)

[@edsiefker1301]

Cool! What part is that?

[@AdrianMNegreanu]

have you tried a vga cable with a ferrite filter ?

[@RMCRetro]

Yes indeed a ferrite filter is on order to clean up the power input as well as the video cable, as well as some copper shielding

[@keremimo]

You should really check gbs-control by rama. Just uses an arduino to transform that upscaler into a line doubler. Gets rid of a huge amount of problems you just got :) I wouldn't mind watching you transform it, I actually need to see someone build it so I can just learn how it is done :D

[@RMCRetro]

Kerem Kılıç I've been having a read about it. I love the solution, but when you add an arduino and maybe a case you're well on the way to the cost of a good premium solution. It's a fine balance

[@careygumaer1836]

@@RMCRetro Bob from RetroRGB has a great video on it, he details what you need to do on each model of the GBS to reduce interference and improve the video quality. The wifi hat that you get for it is pretty cheap, only 17 bucks on Amazon. Either way, still beats the other more expensive solutions!

[@rubusroo68]

I had the same monitor with my atari 1040 stfm along with a sm124 mono high res monitor. hope you manage to sort it.

[@joe72205]

I would turn the sharpness down a bit more, you can see ringing edges around text.

[@RetroGamerBB]

Dooklink on the schmups forums makes a custom firmware for the gbs8220, that eliminates the interlacing artifacts caused by deinterlacing a progressive image.

[@fortnitegod2647]

I'm wondering weather a capacitor would clean the noise out on screen. Hey it looks really good for a £20 fix I think it's money well spent Neil 😋😋....Kim

[@LAG09]

I'm using the exact same VGA board with my NeoGeo MVS and I haven't encountered anything like that so I get the feeling this is probably something specific to the Amiga and other computers.

[@FernandoMagaldiCachoeiro]

Parabéns pelos seus vídeos. Eles são ótimos e estão me incentivando a restaurar máquinas antigas para que eu possa fazer doações a pessoas simples e para vender algumas para quem gosta de nostalgia. Obrigado e um abraço!

[@garyhart6421]

Which Google Translates as: Congratulations on your videos. They are great and are encouraging me to restore old machines so that I can make donations to simple people and to sell some to those who like nostalgia. Thanks and a hug!

[@leongt1954]

Good luck getting your hands on a 23 pin female connecter seems they are very rare thing these days even AmigaKit have had to cut down a 25 pin plug to make their adaptors because they cannot get 23pin

[@EdgyNumber1]

Use a flex with shielding. Use RF filters at both ends by the connectors.

[@El_Guapo74]

I got one of these a couple years ago. Cheap, works good enough but my only gripes is I couldn't get the colors to look as good as my NEC CRT monitor and If I get the image lined up nice on my LCD a resolution change would send the position way out of wack. So I ended up with a low res image that was to small on the screen to accommodate that. But considering how cheap the thing is I can easily over look that

[@becksy539]

Where did you source your acrylic monitor stand from?, struggling to find one with a suitable width for my 1200

[@Englad666]

You mentioned you'd tried it on a PC CRT. Are the problems any less noticeable there?

[@RMCRetro]

I noticed the same problems, just with the added pleasure of scanlines

[@Soundwave1of9]

As this is now 6 years old, is there a refined /better option? I see lots of rgb to vga adaptors for the A500 now on ebay etc.... Do they do the job?

[@Qlyphy]

just a comment from pedant corner here - that's a 17" Samsung display - not 15".. but otherwise another great video - nice one !!

[@RMCRetro]

Cliff Cheetham yes indeed it is thanks for watching

[@JosipBasic]

Where did you get 23 pin connector?

[@JackRipper8881]

In magic fairy land. They are impossible to find.

[@UrbanJerseyGuy]

I like how subtle the music is, and the content is good. You gotta sub from me

[@RMCRetro]

Thank you sir welcome to the Cave

[@obsoletebutneat]

Just got an Atari ST and am dealing with the same problems. Did find an LCD at a thrift store that will do Low Res mode.