Hand Made Brass Toe Plates on Allen Edmonds Derby

This video highlights my first attempt at creating brass toe plates on a pair Brooks Brothers split toe derbies made by Allen Edmonds. I create the brass toe plates from 1/16" thick brass bar stock and brass flat head screws. I created the toe plates myself rather than buying Lulu or Triumph simply beause most of them are steel or brass plated steel, and the solid brass ones are very expensive, and they didn't seem difficult to make. These shoes were perfect canditates for the job as the soles were severely worn on just the tips of the toes. I replace the rubber portion of the leather rubber combination heel top lifts as well.
According to an Allen Edmonds store manager I know, this shoe is the same as the Allen Edmonds Presidio model, and was made on the 222 last.
0:56 How do I know these are produced by Allen Edmonds?
1:57 The "before" condition of the heel top lifts, soles, and toes
3:57 The brass stock, toe plate, fastener, and countersinking tool details
6:20 Replacing the rubber portion of the Top Lifts
7:40 Creating a new rubber portion from rubber sheet
11:20 Placing the new brass Toe Plates?
12:07 Cutting the soles for the new Top Plates (music by ‪@gobah‬ )
14:59 Sanding the outside of the heels and the Toe Plates
16:24 Filling gaps in the soles and heels
22:32 Dying the edges of the soles and heels
24:01 Filling some low spots with Saphir Renovatrice
24:30 Polishing the edges of the heels and soles
25:22 Conditioning and cleaning the uppers with Pure Polish Products Cleaner Conditioner (available at www.PurePolishProducts.com)
27:07 Polishing the uppers with Pure Polish Products black paste wax
30:41 The final result!
33:16 Outro and before and after shots

[@fernandoespinosabenayas255]

Thanks!!

[@mcshea847]

HAH!!! LOL! Yes, you read my mind Bob, I was SHOCKED to see no mirror shine! Just because you always do it - I'm not a fan of mirror shine just because I could never devote the time put into it. Anyway, another great video. Thank you Sir.

[@CobblerBob]

LOL, I sometimes just have a desire to do something different.

[@arthurcatalanotto1151]

Great job! Always nice to have some sort of project going on. While wearing those shoes, I believe that no one will be able to notice those trivial imperfections in the repairs made. I enjoy watching these videos. Thanks!

[@edf2953]

Nice job on the shoes Bob. Your cobbler skills have come along very nicely. Really enjoyed this video. Thanks for sharing.

[@CobblerBob]

Thank you for watching & commenting! I’m glad you enjoyed it.

[@asadb1990]

Nice job with what you have available. I would have suggested to try and cut deeper into the rubber sole protector so that the toe plate sits flat and minimal gap. But that is just usually easier said than done

[@MrDucatiti]

Looking forward to this video for sure!!!

[@CobblerBob]

Hope you like it!

[@baberoot1998]

These look like my Allen Edmonds Delray, although they could be closer to the A&E LaSalle. Nice shoes...and a great lulu tips job.

[@thomaskraincuk9815]

Solid work, oh Master! As always! Next time plz get the laces out so that the tongue can get some love as well ;-) Have a good one! Cheers!

[@CobblerBob]

Thanks! Will do!

[@thomaskraincuk9815]

@@CobblerBob U really R 1 of a kind, Robert!

[@MichelKiflen]

Nicely done! I didn't expect you to take on this project since it seemed quite challenging but the end product turned is great

[@CobblerBob]

Thank you!

[@lenniefalcon5928]

You’ve taken a relatively simple project and complicated it beyond measure. 1. The heel: sold as a combination leather lift and Vibram rubber interlocking round. About $16.00 at most cobbler materials suppliers. Everything is pulled off to the stack, replaced, re-glued and nailed. 2. The toe: cut through to the leather and remove the entire first layer, not just the rubber. Level, glue and finish. You need sand to the thickness of the metal. Use an awl first, to correctly counter sync the screws.

[@CobblerBob]

Thanks for your input Lennie. Here are my thoughts: 1. I understand there are easier ways of doing this, like buying a Lulu premade French tips. This is a hobby where I enjoy being creative. The cobbling is certainly not a source of income, so I can take a little longer route, especially if it saves me money. Sometimes when I re-sell the shoes, there may only be $20-$30 profit in it to begin with. 2. My way of just replacing the rubber portion did take extra time to cut it out, but I saved the time and hassle of trimming the entire top lift and then sanding it. I only had to sand the rubber portion. Remember, I don't have a 5 in 1 machine to trim off the excess rapidly. Also, most cobbling supply stores won’t sell to individuals. I’m therefore left with a few stores in the UK where shipping is exorbitant, or eBay. The dovetail leather rubber dove tail top lifts on eBay are not cheap: the JR ones are $40 a pair. If you post a link to a store that sells them to individuals, that would be a real help and much appreciated! 3. Your way of cutting off the entire layer of rubber won’t be easy. This is not some aftermarket Topy. The sole was produced with the rubber portion adhered to it, then the combination sole was stitched onto the welt, so the outsole stitches are on top of the rubber. I think that would be extraordinarily difficult. I don’t think the rubber portion would peel off. I think you’d wind up sanding and sanding and sanding, and it would be difficult to get the surface even and flat at home. Then I think you’d run a greater risk of the outsole separating from the welt because you’d cut deep into the outsole stitching. I could be wrong, but that’s my opinion and reasoning. 4. Using an awl before installing the screws is a very wise tip and would have prevented that angled screw, and made the screws easier to install. Thanks for your input either way. I’m not saying you’re wrong, but that there was throught and reasoning in the way I did it.

[@lenniefalcon5928]

@@CobblerBob Bob(May I call you Bob?) Before JR’ sale I could get the lifts for $100/pac of 6 repair of leather and rubber comb. My guy has retired, but his source is still in business. I can ask if you’re interested. That said, let me know. Steve Bedo scives the the toe sole, but I think you have to write him or look at his KZbin’s. Sewing thru rubber sole protectors was meant to make you use a new welt, and AE has a huge profitable resole business. No matter what anyone tells, always always always glue the sole protector on top of the stitches. Forgot to tell you, the uppers came out better than my retired to Palm Beach cobbler could do.

[@zefdin101]

Hey Bob! The timing of this video is awesome as I just purchased some Triumph toe plates and I am just getting ready to attempt a resole on a pair of vintage Dack’s long wings and I was planning to add toe plates… I’m psyched to see how you install them and make out. While I have resoled shoes before , I have not added permanent toe plates myself. Thank you sir!!

[@CobblerBob]

Good luck! Watch how guys like Bedos or Trenton ‘ Heath do it though, I’m no pro!

[@zefdin101]

Bob, Bob, Yes, I love those guys, but they make it look easy. Then I try it and it’s a rude awakening. It’s fun & informative to watch someone with a more realistic skill set sometimes. Cheers!

[@andisaxophone]

Great job, Bob! I think I saw a video on Steve's channel where he cut the space for the toe plate too much, so he cemented a very thin piece of leather underneath first. Then added the toe plates. This might have also worked for you instead of doing it after with the leather dust. Also, I replaced a pair of heel pads on my own because of your videos. It was nice to try on a pair of boots I was ready to throw away anyways. I'm now only buying shoes that can be resoled. It just makes so much sense.

[@CobblerBob]

Yes, I’ve tried adding in wedges of leather before to repair toes, and it was horrible! LOL. It looks so neat when the cobblers do it. That doesn’t mean I can’t try again though. I think the keys to adding in leather are: 1. Sanding the toe area very flat and square 2. Getting a very well trimmed piece of scrap cut at the right angle. I’ve seen cobblers use scrap cut from leather trimmed off of the 5 in 1 machine. I don’t have that luxury of perfectly wedge shaped scraps. Again, possible…

[@baberoot1998]

Oh my Bob! I just noticed...your poor thumbnails...found a hammer not too long ago...lol. I have lost both thumbnails before too!!! They grow back all funky...but eventually return to normal. (Of course, I am sure you already know this). Just had to point out...I see where you gave yourself a couple of smashes...lol. (It's a sign of a "working man"). Love your channel...love your video. Thanks for posting sir.

[@CobblerBob]

LOL, yeah, I’m guessing I damaged the cuticles or nail bed a couple decades ago when I used to be a gear head.

[@matthewcarr392]

Onychomycosis of thumbs Treat with terbinafine 250 mg PO QD x 12 weeks

[@TimothyEnloe]

I’m only a 5th the way through the video so maybe you’ve solved for the rounding issue by the end but I’ve seen some Japanese cobblers curve the end of the brass to match the contour of the shoe.

[@CobblerBob]

Oooh, that’s an interesting idea!!

[@Shneebly]

I have this same pair of AE for Brooks Brothers, and the outsole stitching infuriates me. Why do the stitches go to the outside of the rubber? There is no channel so they are worn through immediately and you are left with a glued construction. Why not stitch on the leather and then glue on the rubber?

[@CobblerBob]

It would seem better for there to be some kind of groove, but I'm guessing since the rubber is so thin, if they cut a groove in it the groove would cut through the rubber resulting in the rubber on the outer edge of the sole tearing off? That's just a guess.

[@MrDucatiti]

I have watched several videos of cobblers installing toe plates. Now having watched this, more difficult to install it perfectly than I thought. I may just have a professional do it. Perhaps, easier to do it on a new pair of shoes. All along, I really thought it would be easy with woodworking tools such as sander, grinder, Dremel, router, etc... I'll just leave it to the professionals and pay $50 or so :)

[@CobblerBob]

Yes, it’s never as easy as the pros make it seem!

[@paulinacura9967]

Hi Bob. I am truly impressed with your skills. I have tried to apply them to women's shoes. My biggest obstacle is finding some supplies, especially heel plates. I know this isn't the subject of this video but I am having a hard time finding sizes less than 3. Most single or bundle offers are for size 5 or above and fit men's shoes and maybe a few styles of boots for women. (Some companies don't even list a size.) This is true both on Amazon and ebay. But average women's shoes need sizes 0 or 2. I have tried a few of the sites you suggested in videos but no luck. Please let me know if you know of any other retailers. Thank you for sharing your skills!

[@CobblerBob]

Yes, I agree, sometimes buying supplies in general is a challenge. That’s part of the reason I just made them myself. Try eBay? There’s a seller Nordshoe there I buy a lot of other stuff from.

[@marlonaguilar816]

Nice work! What size shoes?

[@CobblerBob]

They're 10 3E. They're on eBay BTW! I'm robertepowers on eBay.

[@joselasaga4314]

No es un trabajo muy profesional...

[@CobblerBob]

Google translate says you said “not very professional.” No shit. Did you see the title? My FIRST brass toe plates? And the intro that said “I’m NOT a professional?”