When To Use Brass Toe Plates On Dress Shoes | Kirby Allison

In today's video, Kirby Allison and third-generation, 17-time award-winning cobbler, Jim McFarland talk about the importance of Toe Taps (or Toe Plates) and the craftsmanship of the Kirby Allison Shoe Restoration Program.
Knowing when its time to resole your dress shoes can be a challenge. To find out if your shoes are in need of our Kirby Allison Certified Shoe Restoration Program check out our video 3 WAYS TO KNOW Your Shoes Need To Be Resoled: • How To Know When Your ...
Learn about our different programs for repairing your leather shoes:
Kirby Allison Certified Restoration and Refurbishment www.kirbyallison.com/kirby-al...
Kirby Allison Sovereign Grade Restoration and Refurbishment www.kirbyallison.com/kirby-al...
Shop Hanger Project: www.kirbyallison.com
PRODUCT FEATURED IN VIDEO
Kirby Allison Certified Restoration and Refurbishment www.kirbyallison.com/kirby-al...
Kirby Allison Sovereign Grade Restoration and Refurbishment www.kirbyallison.com/kirby-al...
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[@ardentdfender4116]

Your the first person of maybe a dozen channels I watch on mens shows that has explained and properly explained what and why of the shoe toe plates.

[@brettthorndike1079]

It is very useful information to learn about the left pivot shoe.....thanx for another great video👍🏻

[@edf2953]

Another informative video Kirby! Thanks.

[@LDacic]

Getting brass toe plates sure is a really unique characteristic of your program :D

[@rohittheinvincible]

Superb video Kirby !

[@brandonm6052]

Tring Shoe Repair page encouraged me to look up why this was done. I'm in agriculture in Nebraska so for me I'm only in Muck Boots, work boots, or off the shelf "dress" boots.

[@ual6894]

same here

[@glenconverse1327]

Another great video Kirby!

[@kirbyallison]

Thansk!

[@primoxxl71]

I like this fellow!

[@jacobchavez4719]

Do you offer a cleaning, conditioning and polishing program? I got a pair of boots that I don’t know to get rid of and most importantly, I don’t want to damage the color of them (yellow).

[@KK1SS]

Hi Kirby, some say it affects the integrity/structure of the the shoe/toe when the top bit of leather sole is cut to make room for the plate. I don't seem to see your shoes having plates, what is your take on it? Also, what is your take on adding a rubber sole onto leather sole, so that the shoes don't have to be resoled as often? Thanks

[@olivierdevriendt7064]

Hi Kirby, great explanation. I would like to know the thought behind having the option for either brass or steel toe plates. What is the difference and why should we opt for one over the other? Cheers.

[@kirbyallison]

Totally personal preference. All of the bespoke shoemakers I know use one of these two styles... so I wanted to carry both.

[@user-vn6ms7id6d]

These are made of steel and brass coated

[@TheJoelhd]

I have a pair of Allen Edmonds-should I have toe plates put on or is it strictly for bespoke shoes?

[@brucerichardson893]

Are you able to add brads on the toe like Carmina?

[@ym617e26upr]

Thanks for the video, Mr. Allison. I see all the toe plates in the video are round. Is there toe plate for square or chisel toe shoes?

[@DClaville]

you grind the end so it fits the sole for each shoe .

[@thatrandomdude4505]

This really is a design flaw. All dress shoes should come with a built-in toe protector, whether it be a rubber top lift or metal plate.

[@Bigwave2003]

Tha's why I had brass toe protectors put on all my socks.

[@dylantran2319]

Another great Video Kirby! I have gotten more friends interested in dressing well because of your videos! Quick question, what is the difference between your Wellington and Sovereign Grade shoelaces?

[@jgood005]

I can't speak for the Wellington, but I've been very satisfied with the Sovereign Grade waxed shoelaces. I had some AE Oxfords that I wanted to bar lace, but I still wanted them to be functional, so I crossed them underneath. With the normal Allen Edmonds laces, all the crisscrossing underneath really pushed the eyelets apart. I expected the Sovereign Grade to be the same quality as the Allen Edmonds laces, but it's actually woven much finer. They make it much easier to do bar lacing or any other intricate lace pattern, and the weave is so dense I can't imagine them ever breaking.

[@kirbyallison]

These are the same laces. We decided to split our Sovereign Grade into just clothing accessories (ties, pocket squares, socks, etc) and dedicate Wellington to our shoe care accessories.

[@kirbyallison]

@jb05 Night and day from AE's laces... I almost recommend immediately replacing the standard AE laces, even on a new pair of shoes. The finer weave makes for a much more elegant lace.

[@russ9921]

No guessing which London club gave you the “Wellington” name idea, Kirby.

[@kirbyallison]

Russ my surroundings are my best source of inspiration... there is some symbolism to the name that’ll make sense one day, also.

[@zoeyihey4862]

thanks without the hanger project what would i do without it. this is so important for us all and the world.

[@rsevp179]

Gotta get this off my chest- driving me a little crazy When vs. Whenever Rule 1 - If an event is unique or its date or time is known, use when. Rule 2 - Whenever is best used for repeated events or events whose date or time is uncertain. If you can substitute every time that or at whatever time that in your sentence, then whenever is preferred. Note: When can often substitute for whenever but generally not the other way around. The exception is using whenever as an intensive form of when in questions: Whenever will that dog stop barking?

[@kirbyallison]

Robert Pearson I’m going to print this out and put in on my desk. Whenever I am filming, I’ll keep it for reference!

[@TAIL313]

As long as I can understand what they're saying or what they mean it doesn't matter I feel sorry for you if it does as it doesn't affect the universe in any way shape or form something tells me I'm missing something in this paragraph

[@KFCJones]

A couple of periods?

[@nathanaelmarquez5736]

Thanks for the video as always Kirby. I have a question about the type of toe plates used, brass or steel. Is there a difference between the two, or is it based on personal preference? Thanks again. -N

[@King_Harrold]

Brass is a softer metal so will wear quicker and be a little more compliant. I'd recommend brass for your first pair, if you find the caps wear quicker than the leather sole then second time around go steel. Also brass patina protects from rusting. Even stainless steel can get surface rust, especially in scratches.

[@kirbyallison]

They do say that brass wears better with leather... this is why brass nails are used and not stainless... they wear down with the leather better.

[@user-vn6ms7id6d]

Triumph and Lulu are made of stainless steel. Triumph is brass coated. The difference is in size of plates and number of screws. Triumph is more suitable for thick leather soles, double leather soles.

[@marknewgent8428]

What’s better brass or stainless steel toe plates? Do you have a video comparing both?

[@terranempire2]

They are actually both steel. The Triumph is brass plated.

[@mcmickey3344]

is the triumph brass toe plate that is thicker (3mm) stronger?

[@MrMarek101]

Does this apply to dress shoes only? Or would you recommend having these fitted on anything from loafers to Chelsea boots in order to preserve the welt?

[@cjanquart]

Just saw another video where a cobbler put some Lulu plates on a pair of Thursday boots.

[@martingruber9208]

Thank you for the video Kirby! But I have a question when it comes to toe plates. I own a pair of shoes that aren't good year welted but are wood pegged. Should I still consider getting toe plates? Are they useful, since there is no welt to protect? Thanks in advance!

[@kirbyallison]

Normally the wood pegging is at the waist of the shoe. Are they pegged at the toe also? Some shoemakers tack the toes with brass nails instead of using a toe plate. I'm sure we could do it.

[@martingruber9208]

Mine are fully pegged, also at the toe. They are from the company "Handmacher", they are located not far from where I live. I like their rather conservative Austrian/Hungarian last.

[@tysonwyant]

Can you add a toe plate to a pair of Allen Edmonds with an open channel welt? It seems like if I (or a cobbler rather) added one I would cut the threads.

[@kirbyallison]

Yes. It will cut some of the threads but can be done in a way that will not damage or compromise the integrity of the shoe. Better to do when the shoes are resoled, though.

[@Dan-lq6dg]

The best KZbin channel!

[@kirbyallison]

Thanks!

[@MrPaddy1000111]

When having toe plates installed I noticed they usually cut away/sand away the welt stitching on the tips. Does this effect the integrity of the toe?

[@quietatse]

Good question, I'm contemplating having toe plates installed but concerned about what you've just mentioned.

[@MrPaddy1000111]

@@quietatse I went with it, no issues as of yet! Glad I did though, walking in them will wear the stitching out anyway

[@alexholland8439]

Kirby and others would you recommend toe plates for suede loafers? Is there a certain formality you suggest with?

[@ulrikfriis6258]

When should the heels be changed?

[@watercooled8105]

I’ve never used them, so my question is; are they noticeable (feeling wise) while walking on various surfaces (from cement to hardwood floors) and what about contact noise?

[@carltrotter7622]

I'm planning on getting some installed in a few months when my local cobblers reopens from COVID, I'll make sure to let you know.

[@readabookg8502]

@@carltrotter7622 where's the update

[@taiteyard3567]

@@readabookg8502 bro must’ve perished

[@theeonlystorm]

They are noticeable feeling wise for a few day while your breaking them in. Contact noise is moderate to high depending on the material you are stepping on and how they are installed.

[@real_fjcalabrese]

Thanks for the great explanation on wear patterns! Is there a way to reinforce the center. Also, I want toe plates; they give a vintage appearance.

[@JohnDotBomb]

I like the vintage appearance too, as a swing dancer. Swing dancing also wears through my toes super quickly.

[@ZackAftermath]

I'm looking to buy a pair of Cobbler Union oxfords soon. Are you able to install brass toe plates on their factory outsole or do I have to get the JR soles first?

[@kirbyallison]

As long as you haven't worn the shoes, we can easily install brass toe plates!

[@ZackAftermath]

Kirby Allison thank you so much! I’ll send them to you as soon as I get them

[@TimLChan]

I was hoping you would mention why Triumph over Lulu tips.

[@Mr.Hoskin]

Mr. Allison, do you prefer Goodyear welted or Blake Stitched? And what’s your opinion on advantages and disadvantages of the two? Thank you.

[@kirbyallison]

You know... this is a good question. Blake stitching has really come along. And you can certainly resole a pair of blake stitched shoes as many times as a goodyear welted shoe. I prefer the traditional aesthetic of a goodyear welted shoe, especially if there is a nice stitch density to the outsole (unlike Allen Edmonds) and there is some fudging on the welt (the indentation pattern). The benefit of blake is that you get a much lighter, more flexible shoe, but it probably lacks a degree of longevity. Hard to say... you primarily see blake out of Italy and Goodyear Welted out of England. Goodyear welted is certainly the higher-quality and more difficult to produce of the two. Take a look at our Gaziano factory tour video.

[@Mr.Hoskin]

@@kirbyallison thank you for your response. It was helpful. With your recrafting service, can you recraft a Blake stitched constructed shoe and make it a Goodyear welted shoe?

[@kirbyallison]

Anthony Hoskin No. this is impossible, unfortunately

[@MBisFrenchy]

Will you offer an option for people that would prefer Dainite soles?

[@allviewer2908]

He never gonna answer you if you not lucky! I have seen many questions avoided that includes mine too... anyway let's hope for best!

[@kirbyallison]

Ha!

[@kirbyallison]

We can do Dainite soles at no extra charge. We need to add this to the website... there are so many options, it's really hard to show them.

[@MBisFrenchy]

Kirby Allison Great. My first AE Carlyles were worn through unfortunately like saw dust on the NYC pavement at the toe and heel in a few days. I have very bad wear at the toe and heel on shoes.

[@lapizza7206]

I have some new shoes that I don't need to be restored but would like the plating added would yall do that?

[@kirbyallison]

Courtland Reyes Yes we would do that. Contact the customer service team at [e-mail]

[@rivershigh]

Does toe guard create sound walking on tile, ceramic or wood floor?

[@chrisfox6445]

rivershigh Barely. Occasionally the odd tap but mostly no noise at all. It’s not like one of those cheap metal heel taps, tapping with every step!

[@GaZzBenKo]

.... all have a slight click/tap regardless of the quality or exspense in the heal blate or shoe. How close or aligned to the edge of the heel makes all the difference to how pronounced the audible click/tap is.. Once worn in you will hear less in your normal stride or gate. Toe caps are smaller than heals. Other various factors as in shoe design and length of stride and size of caps will give significantly difference in audio. Definitely less sound than heel noise by 60 - 80%

[@nemoindc]

@kirbyallison How do you fix a collapsed toe?

[@jowen1503]

Do you know anyone who can do heel plates on boots

[@kirbyallison]

I don't recommend heel plates as they can be unstable and cause one to easily slip...

[@noachav]

Where would I source toe plates to affix to my own shoes ?

[@bearblackhawk9362]

Any cobbler at any mall will have them.

[@matteostainer2116]

Greetings Kirby, just a question out of pure interest, how does a fiddleback sole get replaced?

[@kirbyallison]

The fiddle back is really shaped through by the shank and how the sole is trimmed. We can do it. That said, I am considering to send Jim to spend a few days at Gaziano to be trained on how to properly recraft their shoes. Not that I don't think he can already do it, but I'd really like him to be "certified" in their house style. This is the quality we aim for.

[@russ9921]

Kirby Allison Daniel W at GG is making me a pair of bespokes and I think I will ask him to fit a toeplate - sensible idea. The only thing to be careful of is that if it’s wet, a toeplate can slip.

[@kirbyallison]

Russ Daniel uses Triumph. They look great. Probably my favorite.

[@darrylrobinson5545]

Where to buy toe plates

[@monkeypawism]

I think it would be more seamless if the toe-plate could be hard rubber, like the heal.

[@SubversionGarage]

Solid or plated brass?

[@kirbyallison]

these are plated brass

[@VanessaDaiana23]

No se resbala una persona con esas chapitas en los zapatos?

[@templetonferrari1538]

Would installing this damage the channel? Thanks!

[@massetozacarias5693]

I just want these heel and toe plates so I can tap dance in my room.

[@leq7137]

What are the brands used for these plates?

[@kirbyallison]

The brass ones are Triumph. They're made in Germany.

[@y4nnickschmitt]

So Kerby invented the metal inlay? Because that's kind of what it sounds like.

[@Bigwave2003]

Kirby is Commander McBragg.

[@GROZNAYA]

I’d have guessed it was for the wearer’s ability to tap dance as a last ditch humor resort to coax his boss into not sh1t canning him.

[@StableNomad]

Seems like you'd tear up a lot of floors with those.

[@charleywaynehinkle6358]

the background music is cracking me up

[@misha9952]

Its Ben Allison

[@slaveoflord]

Triumph plates are plated steel, not solid brass

[@ricee6384]

I would never cut away toe leather to put these on

[@KFCJones]

Whether it's the wear on the shoe or the concerns in the comments for hardwood floors, I wonder: is everyone walking on their tiptoes? 🤣🤷

[@ramaporiver803]

Did he just give me the bird?..

[@Bigwave2003]

1:34 Jim, the cobbler, if you are being held prisoner in Kirby's garage flip the bird. We'll send help.

[@muffemod]

Yo homeboy and Kirby can both use proper haircuts.

[@HumanAv8ar]

I can never see a reason to wear metal toe plate on a beautiful leather sole....if a shoe is that expensive anyone that can afford it should be able to buy a new pair when the leather wears out....metal toe plates are a no no

[@aaronzepedaluna1761]

I think brass plates added some aesthetic value to the shoe.

[@neil4701]

The whole point of buying an expensive pair of shoes is that you DON'T have to treat them as disposable products and throw them away after wearing them for a while... They should last decades if properly looked after. Of course you don't need to "buy a new pair" when the sole wears out, you can just get them resoled, but you don't want to have to be doing that every few months (as might be the case if you were someone who walks a lot and puts disporportionate wear on the toes), because it's a lot of trouble, takes time and will eventually shorten the life of the shoe. Toe plates such as this simply allow the sole to be used for its full lifespan, and besides, they actually enhance the appearance of teh sole into the bargain.

[@BeardedBotanist]

This is extremely scripted kinda felt weird watching this haha

[@nevergiveupnevergivein7655]

Bad haircut guy talking about someone having it together with a good haircut. Things that make you go..."hmmm."

[@medicwheat69]

What minim price range would you consider such an investment worth while? Maybe show makers/brands that say yes that shoe needs taps.

[@kirbyallison]

I normally say AE or better... but it really depends on how you walk. If you have a pair of shoes you're in all the time and walking on concrete, it would definitely extend the life of the shoe

[@medicwheat69]

Kirby Allison AE DO you mean Allen Edmons?