Perfect file cuts with this tool - Making file guide vise jaws

[@robinson-foundry]

If you're interested in any of the tools or equipment I use and you want to help support the channel then don't forget to check out some of the affiliate links in the video description. Thank you for the support!

[@14tauscher]

Fantastic, the finishing touches on all your projects always makes it look so good! The cleanup of all the little bits and pieces at the end are one of my favorite bits of your videos, and really show what a difference the small details can have on a finished project.

[@Dglinski2]

I'm always amazed of how well you capture attention with no background music! so satisfying!

[@seanoreilly3665]

I’ve been waiting to buy my own file guides, but I never find a set I like, these are amazing, would buy!!!

[@justinbanks2380]

12:20 or maybe it's just average... Was not expecting the innuendo 😂

[@TheGreenGamer33]

Machinist currently in college here, just wanted to say: Nicely done. Also, that pop at 3:33 is just *chefs kiss* A possible way to avoid the bowing issue is to anneal the steel beforehand, and keep it cool while machining it (lower feed rate and coolant if possible).

[@contra81]

As a novice/not-so-good metal planemaker, I can tell you in earnest that you have a market for this tool if you were to make it! Wish i had one of these, nice work!

[@dennisobrien3618]

It's comforting watching you work. Your thought processes and the way you work mirror my own (although I probably cut corners more unless super high precision is necessary).

[@robinson-foundry]

Glad you like it! Thanks!

[@pauldorman]

Really impressive result! I would take it one step further and machine some long v-shaped pockets along the length of each jaw, say 1 mm from the inside edge, and about a 8 mm wide, with flat stops on each end. Then get a pair of precision ground solid carbide rods and place them in the pockets. When your file reaches the carbide rods it will just skate across them (file across the work for best effect). The rods are free to rotate in their pockets too, which might save on tool wear, though perhaps they'd need a bit of graphite to help them along. For most materials chips won't damage the rods and neither will the files, so they should last a lifetime as long as you don't drop them! You could also make a simple gauge that lets you bring a pointer over the rods to the scribe lines or whatever you want to use as your stopping point.

[@mikealinan3038]

Great stuff as always man, i always get so interested in these videos you make :)

[@robinson-foundry]

Thanks, I appreciate it!

[@Njazmo]

That was really cool and easy etching method.

[@zaxxa3787]

I always love watching these videos

[@piconano]

Your work is treatment for my OCD.

[@robinson-foundry]

Cool!

[@EvenTheDogAgrees]

You can blacken the etching by using AC current. Of course, you can't do that with a simple setup with batteries. But if you got a transformer-based AC/DC adapter of the right voltage, and are a bit handy with a soldering iron, it can be done. The transformer outputs AC voltage, which gets rectified by a bridge rectifier. You can tap off the unrectified AC current straight from the transformer, and the DC (which you need to etch into the material) from its standard output. Then you can just use a dual pole dual throw switch to connect either to your output probes. I used some cheap Hakko 936 knock-off as the basis for my etching station. Made a new front plate for it that houses a DPDT switch, and replaced the internal PCB with one that takes the output of the transformer, and exposes it as one set of outputs, while also passing it through a full bridge rectifier, whose outputs also get exposed. Then both of those outputs get fed to the "output" sides of the DPDT switch, whose "input" gets connected to the crocodile clamp and a wand that ends in a sponge. I've seen others do it using a cheap cellphone charger, but nowadays you have to doublecheck they actually have an AC output stage, since a lot of 'em (the so-called switching power supplies) use buck converters instead of transformers. The same goes for my soldering iron, btw; a lot of those are built around buck converters these days, as opposed to transformers.

[@systemG3000]

At first I thought this was going to be for doing file work on knife spines or something. But it still could be if you ground regular grooves into the HSS bits (could even make a set of them). Well done.

[@coreyrobinson9010]

As always, a great video Cousin ;)

[@homemadetools]

Excellent work, and they came out beautiful. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum last week 😎

[@mftmachining]

Excellent job. Too beautiful to use.....piece of art. Top.

[@brenovsky]

Alright!! Very nice work!!! Keep it up!!

[@johnwick7175]

1:30 oh shit I felt my hand getting cut off. There's something ominous about vertical band saws. They scare me to death. Don't know if it's the sound, or whatever it is, but it's the most scary tool in a workshop for me. 🤣

[@barthanes1]

I would have done it exactly the same, including being surprised that it warped under it's own internal stresses.

[@user-rn5ks8sf5x]

Nicely done

[@robinson-foundry]

Thank you!

[@ThePracticalPeasant]

Last time I made pins out of a piece of steel that looked like that, it turned out to be a scrap of W2, where a hardened tool had been made and cut from one end. The 20 pins I needed to make got progressively harder to cut as I got closer to the end that had been heat-treated...

[@Brandon-dg9lu]

I would really love to see someone make the chromium nickel cobalt alloy for tools like an axe, etc that was created a few years ago.

[@Boosted98gsx]

You should put some thought into manufacturing these... On the warping from stress relief, next time (if there is) start with annealed material and then heat treat yourself post machining. You'll want to leave some stock so that you can grind the important features to final size and tolerance however. You're going to have warping no matter which direction you tackle it from, working with hardened/hardening parts. The key is control.

[@whisperpone]

any statement that begins with "I used my wife's" makes me nervous

[@ironhead65]

Great video! What luck about those large hss pieces! That blue suction, is that just exhausting gases?

[@rachelg552353]

Excellent 🎉

[@robinson-foundry]

Thank you!

[@LeonardoAppItalia]

Hi friend, congratulations for your videos, they are kind of netflix for me. Can I ask you what kind of mask and filters you use?

[@dan4653]

Buy cold rolled, annealed. Should help.

[@fridgeways2300]

Which software was supplying the render at the beginning of vid please?

[@aserta]

You get away with not messing the files if you chamfer the outer edges and round them up.

[@dariocarraro4436]

A suggestion...why don't use rollers instead of plates. That will not spoil the file

[@iblong9505]

Every one of my wives said 6 inches was "the perfect size"

[@MrThisIsMeToo]

Yet you wonder why so many wives.

[@darksu6947]

Your wives told me over and over again that 8 inches is the best size for rearranging their internal mechanisms 😂

[@chadwickhjones]

I love this channel but I don’t understand what this item is. A vice for your vice?

[@miserirken]

Well, time to watch this one again, i guess ,':^)

[@lucusloc]

Something happen with the original version? I just watched that earlier today, then this one popped up.

[@robinson-foundry]

Yes, I had to remove and re-upload this video to fix some issues with the audio. Thanks for watching it!

[@lucusloc]

@@robinson-foundry lol, I did not even notice. I will give this another watch though to see if I can spot the difference and give the algorithm a little bump.

[@petepeterson4540]

besides hardening it no you've done enough.

[@justinbarnett4816]

First

[@Sharpbevel]

Dude is the professor on Gilligan’s Island.

[@sdeane09]

Or maybe its just average ha ha