Rochester Carburetor Trick!

[@patv1427]

Dude, Your video just saved my boating season!!!! I had a severe hesitation issue with my quadrajet at launch, to the point that I got so fustrated ( after trying everything - list too long to list) I was about to put that boat for sale, out of frustration. After hours of searching the net and I landed on your video, and sure enough that 4 barrel started to run as smooth as it can after a few drops of engine oil!!!! I could not believe it!!!! I can not believe such a minor trick could produce such a positive outcome. Thank you so much for putting this video together and sharing it. I will eventually plan on rebuilding my carb, but for now and thanks to you, kids will be tubing and having another greatfun on the water!!! Thanks again and keep it up!!

[@RockysRoadshow]

PatV Greetings PatV....(I say)..."Congratulations"..."Captain"...for, getting Your "Vessel" (aka, Boat...lol), to be able to, "Get-Up-On-Plane", once again, without having, your Boat's Engine, Tryin' to "Accelerate", much like, a "Mo-Ped" Does, where at times, especially, while having to Start, that "Mo-Ped", Move-in, from a Stop, to go "Up-Hill", and, to actually "Help", that Gutless Little Engine Along, You have to do some "Peddling" (just like You do, when Riding a Bicycle)...!!!...lol..................................I'm...just Imagining now, a Boat, such as Yours, having that, "Not so good Hesitation" (Before You "Oiled" the Carb, that is), while tryin' to Accelerate the Engine, in..."Emergency"..."Reverse"...in order to "Avoid", Slamming into the "Dock", while, at the very same time, having a "Strong Wind", pushing on Your Boat's "Transom", that kinda Acts, some-what, like a Sailboat's "Sail" does, and that is..."Just Pushin' Your Boat Along"...at the most..."Not Wanted Time"...!!!..."Yikes"...!!!.....That "Hesitation", that, both You, and Your Boat's Engine "Experienced", Before adding that Motor Oil, to Your Carburetor's Accelerator Pump Plunger's "Seal/Cup", is due to the following, my Friend...................................Pretty much, when-ever, a Carburetor, Equipped Engine, is "Asked", to do an "Acceleration", Especially, from a Standing Start, then, once the Carburetor's, Throttle Valves/Butterflies, get "Snapped-Open" some-what, the "AIR", that Enters Your Carburetor's "Throttle Bores/Holes", will, kinda...."Respond/Flow Instantly"...where-as...the "Gasoline", that has to be "Mixing", with that Same "Air", is, shall we call it..."A Bit of a Slow-Poke"...pretty much meaning, that, there is a "Delay/Lag", Time-wise", where the "Gasoline", kinda takes its..."Sweet Time"...."Movin' Along"...kinda like, "Playin' Ketchup"...Ooops, I meant to say..."Catch-Up"...!!!...lol................................That's where the Carburetor's..."Accelerator Pump System"..."Comes Into Play"...and, what "it" does, is to..."Add the Much Needed, Gasoline"...to that..."Already Moving"..."AIR"...so the Carburetor..."Does Not Administer/Provide...Too Lean of an Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture"...to the Engine, as a result of, that...almost, Instantly, responding..."AIR, that Did-Not have Enough Gasoline, Mixed In with it"...in the first place...!!!...lol...........................Imagine now, a Kid's (and, maybe Us...Grown-Up Kids too...lol)...having, one of those, good ole, Pistol/Hand-Gun, type of..."Water, Squirt Guns"...but, with a twist, never the less.................................This particular "Squirt Gun", isn't shaped, anything like the "Plastic, Toy One", but, the "One", that's Inside Your Carburetor", kinda "Acts", in the "Same Way", but, again I say...with a "Twist"...lol.................................When-ever You "Move", in Your case, the Hand (or, is Yours Foot actuated perhaps?)...Engine's "Throttle Lever", or, on, an "On-Land/Can't Float", Vehicle's Gas Pedal, then, the "Linkage", that's usually "Connected", between, the Carburetor's, Primary "Throttle Shaft/Lever/Bracket", and the "Lever", that, usually Pushes-On (or, maybe, on, some other Carburetors, then, "Pull-it-is"...lol)...Accelerator Pump's, Plunger "Stem/Shaft", then, this is where, that, Carburetor's, Accelerator Pump's "Piston" (that has that Rubber-like, Seal/Cup, on it, that You made "Swell-Up", some-what, and, as You were experiencing..."Working, Once Again")...kinda Acts, just like, that, good ole "Water Gun/Pistol" does........................................."Oh No"...and yet..."Another Twist"...!!!...lol...............Now its..."Double-or-Nuth-in'"...time...say what...???.....................That's right, Ladies and Gentlemen...in, oh, lettuce say, a Rochester 4 Barrel Quadrajet, or, even a, Rochester, 2 Barrel Dualjet Carb, that, so called Little Squirt Gun, has..."2 Streams"...coming out of the business end of it, and..."No-Sir-ee-Bob...it's "Not Water"...it's..."Gasoline"...!!!...lol..........................That be..."One Stream/Squirt, for the Carburetor's, Left-side, Primary Throttle Bore", and..."You Guessed it"...that "Other Squirt"...is for, the..."Carburetor's, Right-side, Primary Throttle Bore"...when-ever the "Accelerator Pump's Linkage is Actuated"...oh, and, Also..."When the Damn Thing is Working as it Should"...as, You've found out, my Friend...................................To me, it kinda looks-like, Your Carburetor's, Accelerator Pump's, "Seal/Cup", is probably, made out of the "Old Fashioned", type of "Material" (Rubber-like stuff, perhaps?), which, my Friend, happens to, at times, is able to (hopefully)...Make Us All..."Happy" (and Our Engines too...lol), and, some-what..."Restore Faith"...when in fact, the time arrives, if and when, my, so-called (Carburetor)..."TRICK"...actually "Works"...!!!...lol...oh and, sorry to burst Ur Bubble...lol...but Your Boat's Engine, isn't the First Boat Engine, where this, rather unusual..."Trick"...of mine...made a..."Boat's Captain"..."Smile", once again, and, if You care to, have a look, at the "Comments/Replies", Under this "Trick", KZbin Video of mine, and, see if You are able to Find/Read, the Comment/s, that...Randy N...Posted Under this very Video, and maybe some of my Jibberish, that, might make you Laugh as well, perhaps?...lol............................Thanks for watching, and for Your Comment, that appears to be, Still, Makin'...Your "Crew"..."Screamin' People", at the End of Your Boat's Tow Rope, as well as, for Yourself..."Happy", once again, and, all at the same time, no less...lol..........................Oh Yeah..."Don't Forget to Plug"...Your Boat's..."Drain Hole"...with that..."Plug"...or...You, & Your Crew, will be do-in, some..."Serious Bail-in"...!!! (to lol, or not to lol, that is the question)...nah, I better not, given the Imaginary/Hypothetical Circumstance, that I've actually..."Heard Happen"...!!!...Yikes"...!!!.............Happy Boating, to You, and Yours........Till next time........Be (Boating) Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

PatV Greetings (once again) PatV....It appears, that...Randy N..."Changed that Name"...to...ULTRA CARPET CLEANING...but, when I "Replied" to His "Comment", He was using the...Randy N...Name, as, I'm sure, You will be able, to See, and read that, for Yourself...enjoy....oh, and also, I think it was a...22 Foot Bayliner...as well.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@user-hj8xe7gw8g]

I have a 74 corvette with a quadrajet. It was hesitating on acceleration dispite cleaning the plunger shaft with carb cleaner. I used this trick and now it has no hesitation at all. Thanks man!!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Kyle Coker....Thanks for watching, and "Congratulations", for, Your "Success", in getting Your Rochester Quadrajet, to "Stop" Doin' that very Annoyin' "Hesitating" Acceleration (aka, a kind of Lean Bog), usually from a Stop Sign or Red Light....You might have to "Re-Apply" that Motor Oil, to the Accelerator Cup/Seal, every so often, especially when Mr. "Hesitation", makes another Appearance!...lol....It might only work for a certain period of time, and, make sure that, "Not Too Much" Motor Oil, starts "Pooling" on Top of Your Quadrajet carburetor, for Fire/Safety reasons!....Eventually, Your Quadrajet carburetor will need to be "Re-Built", and that also Includes, a "Brand New" Accelerator Pump "Seal/Cup!!!...lol....Also, this so called "Trick" of mine, would probably only Work on the "Older" Accelerator (black rubber like) Seal/Cups, because, some of the much "Newer" Re-Build Kits, may have "Ethanol Resistant" Accelerator Seal/Cup "Material", which will probably "Resist" that good ole "Motor Oil" too...!!! If, and when You Re-Build Your Quadrajet carburetor, Buy and Install, a "New" Float and a "New" Choke Pull-Off, or Pull-Offs, as the case may be, so, You have the "Best" Chance, at having Your Quadrajet carburetor "Perform" very well, and get good Fuel "Economy" (Yeah Right!), but, that's when You can keep Your "Foot" from "Mashing" the Gas Pedal to the "Floor-Board...!!!...lol. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@lupeaguilera7219]

Bhjkjjh

[@pbcummins58]

Great "Bring it home" trick! This actually did save me the other day. Thank you. Beau.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Beau Cummins....You are welcome, and, I'm glad that this, so called "Trick" of mine, was able to, shall we say, "Temporarily", stop that Very Annoying "Hesitation" (in this case, I'm thinkin', that we could call it, a Lean-Bog), that You, and I'm sure, some other Folks have Experienced, while usually, just starting out from a Stop Sign or Red Light, and having the Vehicles Engine Equipped with a Carburetor....The reason that this, so called "Hesitation" takes place, is, because, the "Air" that Enters the Carburetor, can make its way Into the Carburetor almost "Instantly", where-as, the Fuel (aka, Gasoline), is a bit of a "Slow-Poke", in that, it Can't start "Flowing", as fast as the "Air" can, thus, we will usually experience this Hesitation, if it wasn't for a Correctly Operating "Accelerator Pump System/Circuit" that "Shoots" a Stream or Streams (as the case may be), of Gasoline (kinda like a little Water Squirt Gun) into the Carburetor's Venturi/Throttle Bore, or Multiples there-of, to "Prevent" that "Hesitation/Lean Bog!" My so called "Trick", as I see it, will "Only" work on the Older "Material" (usually looks like black rubber), that the Accelerator Pump "Seal/Cup" is made out of. I actually "Delayed", the Rebuilding of my Rochester 4-Barrel Quadrajet, by a year or two, maybe even more, by, adding a few drops of Motor Oil, into the Accelerator Pumps Cylinder, when, that there...Hesitation..."Reared its Ugly Head!"...(the motor oil, from the oil can, "Trickled" its way down the accelerator pump shaft/stem, and into the accelerator pump's Cylinder it went!), where that good ole Accelerator Pump "Seal/Cup" is "Hiding!"...lol. Just make sure, that You Don't let a "Pool of Motor Oil" start to Form, in the area near the Accelerator Pump "Shaft/Stem", for "Fire/Safety" Reasons! Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@danilogonzalez3923]

Cómo.loafino

[@susanbrevik8944]

worked perfect - the plunger seems it was sticking due to just sitting so long. Now it works as it should - I found twisting the shaft left to right and back again helped loosen things up. Now the plunger moves up and down - great little hack!

[@sameoledance]

Thanks Rocky,yes they are gapped by my manual.wires I will have to check.... Have a great day, and keep the videos coming for us classic car lovers...

[@cptnel65]

Got a 22 foot Bayliner with quadrajet 4 barrel. Had problems and when I looked down into it while pumping it was just spurting. Put oil on plunger shaft and it ran like a charm an hour later. THANKS. Got all winter to rebuild it.

[@kwd57]

There is a small rubber seal on some of those carbs. right under where you are putting your oil that keeps dirt and debris from entering the fuel bowl through where the pump shaft is. If you expand that seal it could bind the pump shaft. If that trick worked for you, I guess thats great, but I would just install a new viton pump. It is so easy to do. If the rubber has just shrunk a bit and not damaged, there is a small circular spring under the cup of the plunger that can be carefully removed and and unwound to expand the cup seal. But thats another thing I would not waste time doing. After posting this I see where someone else mentioned the seal and you said yours does not have one, but maybe other readers of this post may have one on their carb. I also saw you mentioned buying a rebuilt carb. I would stay away from those, especially since you have such a simple problem.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...kwd57...........Thanks for watching...........Well, (my thought)...about, that Extra, little, swelling-up "seal", is that, the Return Spring, on a Rochester carburetor's, Accelerator Pump's, Piston assembly, is pretty darn Strong (compression-wise, that is), and, I'd probably put my money on, that Strong Spring, be-in the Winnner...!!!...lol (but, only an actual test, would actually verify that, I be thinkin')............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, a brand (spankin') New, Accelerator Pump, piston "Seal/Cup", as opposed to, an old, worn out, damaged one, would probably, help out lots, in, the accelerating, from a stop sign or red light department, alright, providing that everything else, is working, as it should be...........Well, as soon as a Rochester Carb, is taken apart, then there's gonna be a Rebuild Kit needed anyways, just for the Gaskets alone...........Hopefully, the Rebuild Kit, will have the, much newer/improved, accelerator pump assembly, piston, Seal/Cup "Material" (blue color maybe...???), installed on it already, as, it's supposed to be, able to, stand up-to, the current "Ethanol" (alcohol) Gasoline blend, that's commin' out of the nozzle, of the Gas-Pump-Bandits, these days............As for Stretching, that Spring (like you had mentioned), in order to increase outwards force, on the accelerator pump's seal/cup, so it would make better contact/seal, with the cylinder, that it rides in, would probably work ok, providing that, the seal/cup was not too far gone, that is (good theory there), but, gotta remember now, that, the Carb Rebuild Kit, usually, always comes with, a "New", accelerator pump (& piston seal/cup) Assembly, and that, the Carburetor, is already "Apart"...!!!...lol...........For You and I, it's probably quite simple, to Rebuild a Rochester Carburetor alright...but...Ya have to keep in mind, that, there are some Folks out there, that are, shall we say, New-to-the-game, and haven't spent the time needed, along with, having the hands on experience as well, that's usually needed, to be able to, git-er-done (get the picture...???), so, for some folks, it might even, end up be-in, that, the Vehicle gets taken into an Automotive, Fix-em-up-Establishment (Shop), where an Auto-Mechanic, will probably, just Re & Re (Re-move & Re-place), that older, high mileage Carburetor, with a Re-man (Re-manufactured) Carburetor, don't-cha-think...???...and hopefully, the Mechanic, actually knows something about Carburetors as well...???...seeing as how, most of the Cars & Trucks, now-ah-days, mostly have Fuel Injection on them...!!!...lol............The most Fun, that I have, when-ever Rebuilding, a 2 or 4 Barrel Rochester carburetor, is when, the primary Metering Rods & Power Piston Assembly, have a real "Fight", when they have to go..."Through"...that damn..."Gasket"...!!!...lol...and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@kwd57]

The spring inside the pump cup is not stretched, it is adjustable by unwinding it like a threaded screw. The metering rods are installed before the gasket is installed. The gasket has a cutout that slips under and through the rods. I have replaced many pumps without the need of a gasket kit. The air horn gasket can be reused most of the time if careful. All viton pumps I have used are red in color and I never found one in a factory kit. Normally the black ones work fine in the factory kit. I have had a lot experience with rebuilt carbs and would never touch one. I would always repair the original carb. Sadly, there are very few mechanics left, only R and R men.

[@hankbridges5055]

There's a float gauge that goes down that hole at the air cleaner screw to check the float level. You check it with the engine running.

[@rodsgarage]

Just wanted to say thanks!! I was having an issue with my '74 C10 dying when I pressed the gas pedal. Less than a cap full of motor oil and presto! Accelerator snaps like it should.

[@toughbarney]

I bought a 79 GMC with a 350 with one of these carbs.It had been running okay at first but recently started to hesitate.I put a small shot of Deep Creep on this and it cleared it right up!Not sure how long it will last but it should keep me going until I can find another carb.Thanks for the tip.

[@RockysRoadshow]

toughbarney Greetings toughbarney....Thanks for watching, and, Congratulations, for getting Your Rochester Carburetor, to Accelerate good again, as I do know, It's quite annoying, when, just about any Carburetor out there, starts, that good ole "Hesitating", while tryin' to Accelerate, more-so, from be-in Stopped at a Red Light or Stop Sign, that's for sure.........................I've never heard of that "Deep Creep" stuff before...???........................If I recall correctly, at first, I would add a few drops of 10w40 Castrol Multi-Viscosity (Conventional, Not Synthetic) Motor Oil, to my Rochester Quadrajet 4-Barrel Carb's Accelerator Pump's Cylinder, about once a week (please note...I'm using a Rochester Dualjet Carb, in this KZbin Video of mine), and, after, quite some time, I was adding that 10w-40 Motor Oil, just about every other day.........................................Then, I had some Straight 50-Weight Motor Oil, kickin' around here, so I thought to myself...Self, how about tryin' some of that 50-Weight Motor Oil, instead of that 10w-40 Motor Oil, so, I did just that................................That 50-Weight Motor Oil (Conventional Motor Oil, Not the Synthetic stuff...!!!), sure did the "Trick", as, it sure didn't need to be Re-Applied as often...............................I think, that, I kept this "Trick" going for a Year or Two, maybe more perhaps, before I decided to, go and purchase, a good quality Rebuild Kit for "it", and, after I Rebuilt the Rochester Quadrajet, then..."No More"..."Anti-Hesitating"..."Trick"..."Motor Oil"...needed to be applied...!!!...lol...................................So, depending, on how Your particular Carburetor "Acts", after applying some of that "Trick" Deep Creep (or maybe Motor Oil), to Your Carb's, Accelerator Pump Cylinder, then, that, will probably, more or less, help You decide, just when...???...to do a "More Permanent", shall we say "Cure", be it, a Replacement Carb, or a Rebuilt One, or maybe even have, or, Rebuild the Carb, that sits Ah-Top, Your Engine's Intake Manifold, perhaps...???............................Good luck, with Your more permanent Fix, and................Till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@lifeofjon5584]

I will give this a try on my '69 pickup! I rebuilt the monojet carb but it still has hesitation due to the accelerator pump. The kit I ordered was poorly put together. Thanks for the tip!

[@sameoledance]

went and read your comments on the Tyler guy,so if I have anymore problems, guess a rebuilt kit,or new carb is next. Thanks again my friend.....

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Brain Thizzwell....Thanks for your nice comment...I still remember when my 1979 350 Cubic Inch (5.7 Litre) V-8 Engine with the Rochester Quadrajet (4-Barrel Carburetor) started acting up with the Hesitation problem, that it had as I was starting out from a stop sign or red light while driving like Grandma (not Grandpa! lol)...Swelling the Rubber-like Accelerator Pump Seal/Piston with Oil did the Trick alright, for a year or so....(might only work on older Rubber-type ones)...Take care

[@everettpangle1861]

That's a great idea bud thanks for the info.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Plymouthl....Thanks for sharing your experience....Sometimes, things just don't go right....That's where "Murphys-Law" comes into play!...Even moisture (condensation) on the inside of a distributor cap can cause the high voltage to become "Scattered", and not go to the intended distributor terminal, and also, might also cause a "No-Start" situation of the engine as well...Sometimes, Ignition problems act like Fuel problems, or, fuel problems can act like ignition problems....Take care

[@RockysRoadshow]

......To remove and replace your accelerator pump plunger, the top of the carburetor has to be removed.....If you are going that far, might as well do a rebuild.....It could also be your "Ignition" System.....If you still have the "Points" type of Distributor, have you had a Tune-Up recently?.....Any time the points start wearing, that will change your Ignition "Timing" causing performance problems....Spark Plugs/Wires..etc. .....I hope that that this helps......Take care, and have a nice day!

[@sdowney717]

The newer quadrajets like from the 80's may have a little collar seal on the accelerator pump shaft. I have 4 quadrajets and two of them do and they are from 1985 chevy 350 and 1988 dodge 360, the 1975 chevy 350 there is no pump shaft collar seal, so that one oil could flow down onto the rubber cup. I prefer the carbs have a sealed accelerator pump shaft collar sela, less gas fumes can escape.

[@RockysRoadshow]

sdowney717 Greetings sdowney717....Thanks for watching, this, KZbin Video of mine, and for, taking the time, to post the comment, that You did, pertaining to, that/those, Accelerator Pump's, Shaft/Stem..."Seal/s"...that You were sayin', that You have there, that were on those, circa, Mid, to Later, 1980's, Rochester 4 Barrel Carburetors, that, You were sayin', that You had...in..."Captivity"...!!! (aka, in Your Possession)................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...perhaps, You may have Noticed, that, during the Time, that "Carburetors", shall we say..."Made Their First Appearance"...on the..."Gasoline Fuel-ed"..."Internal Combustion Engines"...(Once Upon a Time/Long Time ago)...that, well, kinda, started, to put the..."Horse and Buggy"...Folks, out of a job (so to speak...lol), and, what it is, that I'm really (and tryin') to say here, is, as Time was on the "Move" (aka, Advancing), from, way back when, the, so-Called, "Refinements", and "Things/Devices", that, were starting, to be Added to Carburetors, as in...."Here a Gadget...There a Gadget...almost...Everywhere a...Gadget...Gadget"...(so much for my Singin' Career...lol), oh, and also, what it was, that, the Governments, for any given, Time period, along the way, kinda, Mandated (Forced Upon...???...lol), the Vehicle Manufacturers, to, Meet, as is Applicable, to the, so-called..."Emission Standards"...that the "New Vehicles" (at the Time of Their, Manufacture/Be-in Made, and just, Rolling Off, of the Assembly Line, as well), had to..."Meet or Beat"..."Emissions-wise"...that is, what-ever-it-was....that the Governments, shall we say..."Set"...for every given Country/State/Province/City/County...damn it, I'll end all of this Jib-er-ish, with the plain ole word, be-in..."Jurisdiction" (that's kinda sayin', like I've seen in some Movies, where-by, lettuce say, that ..."A"...Wanted-by...Law/Enforcement..."Bad Guy/Drive-in his Vehicle"...at a..."Very High Rate of Speed"...and, is in..."Hot Pursuit"...by a..."State Trooper"...but, that there..."State Trooper"..."Does Not"...quite..."Stop"...that..."Law-Breakin'..."Suspect's"..."Very Fast Vehicle"...that is be-in..."Purr-Sued"..."Before"...that there..."Bad Guy's, Vehicle"..."Crosses the State Line"...Into, Another State/Jurisdiction"...in, the, good ole..."U"..."S"...of..."A" (and...You guessed it, that be, the USA/United States of America)...and, I'm guess-in, that, Each, of those, Individual "States", might just be, a Separate..."Jurisdiction"...at that...???...oh and, for some reason or other, the Movie..."Smoke-ee, and the Bandit"...comes to mind (mine, that is)...lol........I be thinkin', at the moment, that, the, oh, I guess, some, if not most, Domestic/North American Vehicle's, "Carburetors", from about, the Mid 1980's (Ballpark, there-abouts figure)...Carburetors and Newer Ones, as well, just might be, a "Feed-Back Type of Carburetor"...some of which, may, or may not have, the Vehicle in question, Equipped with, an, On-Board Computer, and all of the Other Gadgets, as well, which, just might be, the "Point in Time", just before, the "First Fuel Injector", made its "Appearance", on New, North American, "Factory Made", Vehicle's Engines, quite possibly...........................Maybe, some of those Carburetors, that You have there, have, something, in the way of an "Aneroid" Gadget, Air/Fuel Mixture Control (in real time), Computer Controlled "Idle Speed", and, did any of the Carburetors, that You have there, come out of a Vehicle, that had, an On-Board Computer, Oxygen Sensor/s, etc...at all...???................I guess, that, by using, Common Sense alone, would have most of Us, Car & Truck, Guys & Gals, kinda "Visualizing", and in this particular case, that be-in, those there..."Escaping"...from the..."Carburetor"..."Gasoline Fumes"..."Floating-Away"...into..."Earth's Atmosphere"...some-what, just like, a..."Hot Air Balloon"...does...but...hey-now...We can See, a "Hot Air Balloon"...but..."Who-the-Heck"...can actually..."See Gasoline Fumes"...anywayz...???...lol.............That, so-called, Carburetor, "Anti-Hesitating"..."While Accelerating"..."Trick", that I came up with, sure did the "Trick", back then (for me), and, I went for a Year or Two, without that Hesitation Problem, but, I did eventually, get around to, do-in a Proper "Re-Build", of that, 1979 (actually, when I De-coded "it", it turned out to be, a 1978 Model...lol)...Rochester...Quadrajet, having, very little, in the way, of..."Smog-Gadget-ree"...on "It", what-so-ever, and look Ma..."No Accelerator Pump, Shaft/Stem"..."SEAL"...in Sight...!!!...lol...probably...Bee-cuz..."it"..."Was-Not"...a..."Requirement"...way back..."Then"...!!! (to lol, or not to lol, that is the question)............................................So then, if-in my Rochester Carburetor, was equipped with that, so-called, Accelerator Pump's, Stem/Shaft "Seal", this here, KZbin "Trick" Video of mine..."Would Not Have been Made"...(Big sigh)...lol..............Thanks again, for lettin' me know, about Your Rochester Carburetors, my Friend, and....................Till next time......................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Jack....You're welcome....Now, about you finding a Rebuild Kit for your Rochester Dualjet....you can either do an Internet search, or, you might find a supplier in your phone book, in the area where you live....You should have no problem finding the kit, as the Dualjet Carbs are quite common....Good luck, and, take care Jack.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Jack....First thing is, if your vehicle has not been running for a while, there usually is not very much fuel in your Carburetors Float Bowl....Without fuel (gasoline) in your float bowl, the accelerator pump has no fuel to pump....Try looking again, only, start your engine, then let it cool down....Then (With the Engine NOT RUNNING), try moving the throttle linkage on the carburetor, and look down into the 2 throttle bores (inside the carburetor), you should see something...Take care

[@spyronberry8297]

IT WORKED!!! It actually worked. Greetings from Greece. I have a 1976 Camaro with a 1980 229 cu. in V6 engine and a dualjet 210 carburator probably from a 3rd generation Camaro. The hesitation problem is solved with this trick and now i have to find out what to do with the extreme amount of fumes when it runs on idle. I know it's because there is no computer unit on the motor. Many electronic plugs from the carburetor end up nowhere so i think i'll have to swap it with something pre 1978. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Spyron Berry...…...Cool, that it worked for you, and, thanks for watching...…….If the engine, and, all of the parts, are factory stock, then, the first thing to do, is to make sure, that the Choke plate, is opening up all the way (vertically), when the engine is "fully warmed up", because, if the choke plate, is stuck partially on (not in the vertical position), then, that, in itself, will restrict the air flow (into the carburetor), and will cause a richer that wanted, air/fuel ratio...…….All of those gadgets on the carburetor, and, the hoses, and/or wiring, have to be connected properly, or, by-passed well enough, so the carburetor can do its job properly......….Might be, that, the carburetor float, is faulty, or not adjusted correctly, possibly...…….Ignition system, not working, as good as new...???...as in, (carbon?) fouled spark plugs, weak ignition coil, worn out spark plug wires, etc. ………..Is the Air Filter clean...???...…….All filters, fuel and ignition system related parts and pieces, have to be in, as new condition, and adjusted to specifications, if need be (quite the list huh), and...…. till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

...it's good to know that this "Trick" worked for you, as some other Folks out there, might not be as lucky as you and me...I'm thinking that some of the Later Quadrajets, and also, in some of the Newer Rebuild Kits, that the Composition/Material that the accelerator pump Seal/Piston Cup is made with, might not be affected by the motor oil, making my "Trick" not to work at all...Don't forget to run your Bilge/Engine Compartment Ventilation System before starting your Engine!...Take care Captain

[@danielrebhan9541]

Great simple remedy

[@MrMajstyk]

Please define what you mean by "hesitation problems". I tried your trick on my car and it seems to run better at higher speeds. but after a couple of days it's back...sort of like starving for gas...skipping and missing...then when I slow down, or at normal street speeds it runs fine. Is there a way to just replace the accelerator pump without having to rebuild the carb? Thanks for the video!

[@RockysRoadshow]

......also...if your air cleaner housing has a "Thermac" system (heated air from exhaust manifold to air cleaner inlet), the small "Thermostat" inside the air cleaner might be malfunctioning, causing the incoming air to be way to hot, causing a surging type of problem at higher Cruzing speeds...Also, Vacuum leaks are quite common on older cars, as vacuum hoses and things like Distributor Diaphrams and Choke Pull-offs can and do develop vacuum "Leaks" from heat and age...Also...(con't)

[@sameoledance]

Wow,tuanks for this trick,going to try it on my 77 Chevy Chevelle.Ive replaced pretty much everything and she's still hesitating.If it works you'll be hearing back from me😀

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Tweet L...........You're Welcome, and Thanks for watching...........Well, my so called Trick, might work, or maybe not.............If the Material, that the Accelerator Pump, Piston's Seal/Cup, is made out of, is the much older, rubber like material, and, it isn't missing any, shall we say Chunks, from it, then, it just might work...???...hopefully.............The Trick, that I came up with, sure worked really good, on my 1979 Rochester Quadrajet 4 Barrel Carburetor, for quite some time.............Good luck, and I hope it helps, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

...your Fuel Pump could be getting "Weak" with age/mileage on it....Also, your "Ignition Timing" should be Checked....Is your Air Filter "Clean?"....You had mentioned that when you Floor it, it Hesitates or shuts off....That could sometimes, just be Dirt/Debris, in the float bowl, and some of the fuel/air passages as well....Could even be your choke-pull-off malfunctioning...and...the List, goes on and on....Rebuilding, and if needed, "Re-Calibration", will yield Fantastic results!....Take care

[@anthonyalvarado5899]

Its because all vehicles need lead fuel the fuel is to hot thats y the pump seal drys out thats were they valves need as well a little lead. The lead keeps it lubricated and cools the fuel down

[@plymouthl]

my cadillac had a surge problem once at highway speeds, it was the distributor cap had burned a hole inside and was shorting to the coil

[@wayneshearon3203]

I just change the old wore out accelerator pump and put a new float in and it's like new again.

[@davidsgarage44]

Blessss you just got my 87 regal started she gives problrms after sitting for 6 months

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...david peirce……...Thanks for watching...…...I usually, start and run an engine for a while, at least, once a month (always make sure that, there is plenty of ventilation/fresh air, and if applicable, have the garage door fully open, because, an engine's exhaust, can cause death...!!!)……….The motor oil, will drain downwards, and into the engine's oil pan, and, over time, there sure won't be much oil remaining, on the upper parts of the engine, which can cause more engine wear, during start-up...……The engine has to be running, so the oil pump's, oil pressure, can lubricate, all of the moving parts of the engine...…….Also, gasoline will go bad, in a matter of weeks or months as well, and......till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@stephenandloriyoung5716]

Isn't the accelerator pump seal immersed in gas when the float bowl is full to operating level? So does oil running down the pump shaft not run into gas and dilute/wash off, having little chance to affect the seal?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Lori Young....Lets see now...I know, I will give You, a "Big Two Thumbs Up", for your very Intelligent Observation, Theory, and, Outstanding Questions as well, my Friend!....First off, my so-called "Trick", for "Swelling" the Accelerator Piston "Cup/Seal", might "Only" work on the "Older" Seal/Cups that "Were-Not" Resistant to "Motor-Oil", as compared to the "New, and Improved" Seal/Cup "Material", that is more then likely found in the "Later, or Current" Rebuild Kits for the Rochester Quadrajet, and Dualjet Carburetors....I believe that the "Specific Gravity" for Motor Oil, or, shall we say, that the Motor Oil is "Heavier", then, that of Gasoline, thus, allowing the Motor Oil to "Sink" Lower in the Accelerator Pump "Cylinder", down where the Seal/Cup is sitting in all of that there Gasoline. Even "IF", lets say for instance, that the "Specific Gravity" (or in simple terms, Weight), of Both, the Gasoline and Motor Oil were Hypothetically the "Same", then, I'm thinking that the "2" would probably be doing some "Mixing", and, that there Motor Oil, would Eventually make "Contact" with that "Ailing" Accelerator Pump "Seal/Cup", (and keeping Fingers Crossed), maybe, just maybe, the result might just be...a Temporarily "Swelled" and somewhat "Functioning", Accelerator Piston "Seal/Cup". Even "IF", the "Seal/Cup" is made of the "Older" Material, My so-called "Trick", still "Might-Not" work, if the Seal/Cup is..."Too Far Gone", as in, already Too Loose in the Cylinder Bore, or, perhaps some Chunks or Pieces that broke away from the Seal/Cup, would, as I see it, Render, that there Seal/Cup "Absolutely-Useless", and with that said, the "Resulting"...Hesitation, or (Lean) Bog, that would most likely occur, while trying to do, "Any" Vehicle "Acceleration" at all. Now about your question pertaining to the "Dilution" of the Motor Oil in all of that Gasoline... ...BINGO!!!"...lol... Bingo, as in, my "Needing" to "Re-Apply", or shall I say..."Lets Drizzle Some More Motor Oil" down that Accelerator Pump Stem/Shaft, so the "Not so Good" (Accelerator Pump's), "Pump Shot", will start performing at an "Acceptable" Level, once again, so as to, "Avoid", that, and may I add, very "ANNOYING" Hesitation and (Lean) Bog, while trying to Accelerate, while driving like, You or I, are trying to get some "Good" Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age...(No-Pedal-To-The-Metal-For-The Lead (led)-Foots-Out-There!!!)...lol. Indeed, the Gasoline, probably will eventually cause the Seal/Cup to become, shall we say..."Un-Swelled", thus, the "Need" to "Re-Oil" the Accelerator Pump Seal/Cup, to Restore that (now Famous...lol), "Re-Swelling" of that poor old Seal/Cup. Gee, I never though that my Simple Rochester Accelerator Pump "TRICK" would garner so much attention! For me, it really did work at the time. Please, take a "LOOK", at the Comment Below, that "Randy n" left under this Video, as, He tried my "Trick", on his "BOAT", and, according to His comment, my "Trick", had His BOAT's Engine running OK once again! (well, for the time being, that is!). Also, if you haven't already Read (pronounced Red...lol), All of the Comments "Below" this "Trick" Video of mine, perhaps, if, and when you find the time, please, have a look-see at them, as there happens to be some very good Reading, to be had...enjoy. In closing, I can Honestly say, that this so-called Trick of mine, really did work on my 1979 Rochester 4-Barrel Carburetor, and with the Re-Application of the Motor Oil (at first, and for quite some time, weekly, then, every few days there-after), down the good ole Accelerator Pump Stem/Shaft, to Temporarily "Cure", my Hesitating 350 Cubic Inch/5.7 Liter Displacement Chevrolet (Chevy) V-8 Engine, allowed me to, "Delay", the Inevitable "Rebuild", of that very Reliable, 4-Barrel Rochester Carburetor. My "Trick", is just a "Band-Aid", or shall I say, "Red-Neck" Solution, to that very annoying Accelerating Hesitation, that I had at the time, and, like I may have said some time ago, I came up with this, so-called "Trick", by, just remembering that... ...Rubber "Does-Not" Like "OIL!!!"...lol. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@M21L35]

It's seems you & Elaine Benes share a mutual grammatical punctuation fetish! Elaine's got a thing for exclamation points....whereas yours concerns "quotation marks" usage.

[@coltingleave6934]

Hi there my 83 quadrajet is flooding when I roump on the accelator

[@plymouthl]

it was hei and a new cap but one of the bolts for the coil pierced through

[@jimervin387]

Sounds like it's worth a try on my "78 GMC with the Rochester 4 barrel. I have to pump the gas peddle 5 or 6 times and restart it several times before it will run when it;s cold.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Jim Ervin...........Thanks for watching...............The Accelerator Pump Plunger's, Seal/Cup, "Trick" of mine...was intended, to somewhat, temporarily "Cure" (hopefully), while..."Accelerating"...the Vehicle (with a warmed up Engine), from a Stop, so as to, Prevent, any, shall we say, Hesitation or Stumbling, which to me (and probably Others as well), is really irritating...lol....................If an Engine, that has a Carburetor on it..."Has Not"...been Running for a few Days or more, then, the Gasoline, in the Float Bowl, will usually Evaporate somewhat, over a few days or more, and also, seeing as how, the Engine gets really Warm while Running (probably more-so, on a hot day), and, all of this Heat, rises up, where the Carburetor is mounted on the Engine, hence, the Gasoline in the Carburetor's Float Bowl, Evaporates, somewhat as well..............If Your Vehicle "Accelerates", from a Stop, really good, when the Engine is fully Warmed up, then, the Accelerator Pump Plunger's, "Seal/Cup", is probably, in good enough Condition already.................Try this...the Very..."Next Day"..."After"...Your Engine was "Running Last"...Start it up, and see if Your Engine Starts right up, or Not...???.............If Your Engine Starts up really good, then, that's usually telling me, that, there's enough Gasoline, in the Carburetor's Float Bowl...............If Your Engine..."Does Not"...Start right up, the Day "After", the Engine was "Running Last", then, there's probably, a Problem or two, or, You might not be using the Correct Starting Method, for Your Vehicle's "Exact" Engine...??? (there's usually a Cold, and a Hot Starting Method, for engines, that have Carburetors on them)..................Most times, the Correct Starting Method, can be found, in the Vehicle's Owner Manual, which is sometimes located, in the vehicle's glove compartment, or equivalent there-of.................If You care to, just let me know, how Ur makin' out, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@jimervin387]

Thanks for the information there, Rocky. I did try squirting a little engine oil around the accelerator pump shaft, as you mentioned. But I can't say that it made any difference on my next cold start. As I recall, the truck is a little easier to start on a second day of use. But usually I'm just using it once a week on a Saturday or Sunday. So I'll have to try that trick tomorrow and Thursday to be sure. I've got the original owner's manual but I don't recall there being anything special about the starting procedure except to step on the clutch pedal at the same time since it's a standard.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Jim Ervin.............You're welcome...........Seeing as how, You might "Only" be Starting and running Your Engine, about once a Week, then, if it were me, I would do the following, and, as I've been doing, for many Years now................If I have an Engine, in a car or truck, that has a Carburetor on it, that, "Has Not" been Running for a few Days or more, then, I do the following, cuz of, more than likely, the "Low" Level (or maybe) "No" Gasoline, in the Carburetor's Float Bowl, otherwise, You'll be cranking...Cranking...and CRANKING (lol), the (electric) Starter Motor, So Much, that, that poor ole Starter Motor, will be subjected to, way More, Wear & Tear, than, it is usually subjected to, when compared to, when the Engine starts rather quickly (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...in the past, I've...Done that, and to the point, that the Starter Motor started to "Squeak"...!!!...not good at all...right...???).................Now then, here's what I do...............I have a little Squirt Bottle, that only holds a few Ounces, and I put some Gasoline in it................Then, I remove the Air Cleaner "Lid", from the Top, of the air cleaner's housing (usually has a Wing Nut, on it), and put it aside.....................Then (if need be), I hold the Choke Plate "Open", on the top of the Carburetor, with one hand, and with the other hand, I "Squirt", a couple of Tablespoons, of Gasoline (from my little Squirt Bottle), into, Each of the (Front), Primary Throttle Bores...then...I Replace the air cleaner housing's "Lid", and Tighten the Wing Nut, to secure that "Lid" back on ("Lid" needs to be installed, in case of a "Back-Fire"...!!!)...................Then, I Press the Gas Pedal, all the way Down, and Release the Gas Pedal...what this does, is, it Completely, Closes the Choke Plate (100%), and, at the very same time, the Fast Idle (speed) Screw, goes to, the Fast Idle (speed) position, on the Fast Idle Cam, so the Engine will Idle Faster, so it won't Stall, when the Engine is Cold..................When the Engine Starts (Cold), the Choke Pull-Off (looks kinda like, a little Space Ship...lol), Opens the Choke Plate, just a little bit, oh, maybe about, 1/8 of an Inch, to probably no more, than, about 1/4 of an Inch (there are "Specifications", for this Choke Plate Opening, sometimes called Vacuum Kick, for the amount of its Opening, for just about every Rochester Carburetor, that has this system on it)....................So, once the Engine Starts (and hopefully, keeps Running, when it's Cold Started), the Engine will probably be Idling at quite High RPM's/Revolutions per minute, so, to Lower the High RPM's, just give the Gas Pedal, a little "Tap", and the Engine RPM's should get Lower, somewhat.................The Gas Pedal, has to be Moving, every so often, when the Choke System is in Operation, just like, when the Vehicle is being driven down the road (with Ur Foot on the Gas Pedal)...Why You ask...???...well, if the Throttle Lever on the Carburetor, stays in one place for too long, when the Carburetor's Choke System, is in Operation, then, that Fast Idle Screw, that makes Contact with, the Fast Idle Cam (that I probably mentioned earlier), will get, shall we say "Trapped" On, one of the "Faster" Positions, on, that Fast Idle Cam, which will keep the Engine Idling, at Higher RPM's (remember now, just give the Gas Pedal a little Tap, to Lower those Higher than wanted, Engine RPM's)................For Safety's sake, Never keep any Gasoline in the House, cuz, if any Gasoline Fumes Ignite, the House might catch on Fire...!!!....and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@josieh3766]

Hi there; just wanted to confirm something about your trick method. Do you recall WHEN you would add the oil? Was it when you were done driving for the day (to allow the oil to seep in overnight...but if the piston doesn't move, will it still seep? ) Or was it first thing in the morning on a cold engine (because moving the piston throughout the driving day allowed the oil to trickle in as it ran...But that could also mean the oil would flow into the fuel mixture and be burnt up.) Both scenarios are partly true I assume, I was just looking for what seems to work best. I have had several GM cars with Rochester's over the years with this problem, and still have 2 cars right now. (one is gnot showing the issue, the other might have this issue) This trick will sure come in handy and I just want to make sure I give it the best chance I can. As you say, its a "gradual band-aid" where the oil collects over time. It's not a silver bullet "done deal" repair where I would see night and day difference. Many Thanks for this video :)

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Josie H............You're welcome, and, thanks for watching, and for, the very observant, shall we say, hypotheticals, that you put forth in your comment............Before I forget, perhaps, have a look-see, at the other comments, and the replies that I posted to them, that are already here, well, if you care to, that is.............This, so called trick of mine, worked really good, on the Rochester 4-mv (4-barrel) Quadrajet (circa, late 1970's), that was on a 350 cubic inch (5.7 liter) V-8, and also, this trick of mine, will probably only work, on the "black rubber-like", type of, accelerator pump's, piston/seal cup, for the most part.............As I recall, some of the much older piston/seal cups, might be made out of real genuine leather, while some of the newer ones, might be ethanol resistant (that be, alcohol, that's added into the gasoline blend, if you will), and, the color of the piston/seal cup of this type, might be, blue in color............It could be, that, the motor oil, might help-out the leather type, where-as, I kinda doubt, that, the motor oil will help out, at all, with the ethanol resistant type............When-ever that acceleration hesitation starts happen-in, then, to me, it's usually a pretty good indication, that a carb Re-build is just around the corner, so to speak, but, we want to delay that, don't we...???...and, I did just that, for a few years...!!!...lol.............If the piston/seal cup, happens to be in really bad shape/have any chunks/pieces missing from it, then, I can't see any amount of motor oil, helping out at all.............Just try, trickling a bit of motor oil, down the accelerator pump's shaft, and, as soon as possible, take your ride (car, truck, or what-ever), for a test drive, and also, without having any traffic to speak of, near-by, cuz, that's about the only way, that I (might) know of, on, just how long (time-wise), that it will take, for the swelling-of-the-seal-cup, to take place, if, in fact, the seal cup, is not too far gone, and that, "it" will react/swell, when in contact, with said motor oil.............To be sure, I'd say, apply the motor oil "trick", the day, or night before, especially so, if it happens to be the first try/application, to give it time to do it's magic (trick), if...???... the seal cup will actually swell, some-what, that is............I believe, that, I started out, with my favorite, Castrol 10-W-40, at the beginning, and, when that wasn't working, all that well anymore, I think, that I ended up using 80/90 weight, hypoid, rear differential/rear axle (gear) oil (brand un-known...lol), well, until, I finally broke loose, from "procrastination mode", that is...lol...and, I finally gave that Rochester 4-mv Quadrajet (4-Barrel), a well deserved, and reasonably good, Re-Build.............If the gasoline, that you have in your area, has about 10% Ethanol (and hopefully, Not More), in its blend, then, that alone, can cause an older carburetor, to be running on the Lean-side (air/fuel ratio/mixture-wise), as I found, with a Carter Thermoquad 4-barrel carb (circa, mid-1970's), and, I had to increase the primary fuel jets, almost 10% larger as well, just so Ya know.............Also, if a vehicle sits for months at a time, that ethanol likes to attract water, and, is not so good, when water sits, in a metal carburetor's float bowl............Oh, and, engines, don't run all that well, with that un-wanted water as well, most of the time..............Hmmm...about the oil seeping down to/in near proximity to, the accelerator pump's, piston/seal cup, while it sits at the bottom of the accelerator pump's cylinder...well, the words, specific gravity, come to mind (mine, that is), and, I guess, that, maybe sometime, I should put some motor oil, in some gasoline, that's sitting in a see-through container of sorts, outside, so the house doesn't go boom, in order to observe, any layers/settling, of the two products just mentioned (perhaps that will tell us a thing or two).............As I recall, at first, I applied the "trick", about once per week, and after, (quite) some time, the intervals became more frequent, as in, twice a week, etc. , and went, on-and-on, for a few years at that.............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...that gasoline, that's inside the accelerator pump's cylinder, will be diluting/washing-away, any motor oil that gets put in there, and that's, pretty much a given alright..............The oil "trick", can be applied, no-matter, what, the "Not Running", engine's temperature is, just be very careful, with that, burn-the-hand, Hot engine...!!!..............Maybe, keep an oil can, in the sometimes, acting-up vehicle, cuz, as I see it, it's a h3ll of a lot better, to have good acceleration, especially so, when making a turn..."in front of traffic"...!!!............Just thinkin'...once the seal cup, shall we say, swells up, I be thinkin', that it might stay that way, for some time, even though, the "trick" oil, has been totally washed away/consumed by, that there gasoline, and, it may be so, that, straight 100% gasoline, won't immediately, cause the seal cup, to go into shrink mode, all that fast, don't-cha-think...???...maybe...???............How did this all start anywayz......???...ah yes...Hesitation, now what...???...(music from the TV Show...Jeopardy...seems to be playing in my head, in an endless loop)...until...(a light bulb, illuminates itself inside my mind)....that's the moment, that I remembered, that..."Rubber-Does-Not-Like-Oil"...!!! (the old school/conventional type, that is)...and, as I recall, it was, that, I read somewhere, a long time ago..."Not", to put Motor Oil, on the "Rubber-like-Shock Absorber Bushings" (and to use, Rubber Compatible stuff instead)................Wowsers...!!!...who would-ah thought, that, a..."Few-Drops-of-Motor-Oil"...could garner, so much Attention...???...!!!...lol...and........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@northernwoodsmen]

try trans oil on it , it is known to swell rubber seals .

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...woods men.............Thanks for watching..............Well, if the "Trans Oil", that Ur talkin' about, happens to be "Automatic Transmission Fluid", then, I'm not so sure, that it will be Swelling-up, any Rubber-like Material, any-where near, and as good as, the Regular type of Motor Oil, will be doin'...say what...???..................I sometimes, smear, some "Automatic Transmission Fluid" (usually the Dexron type), on Rubber (like) Parts, that I'm about to install, into whatever it happened to be (at the time), in order to Avoid, any adverse, shall we say interaction, with the Rubber (like) Parts in question, but hey, that's just me.................I just remembered something.............Some years ago, I was talkin' with, I think that He was the Manager, at an automotive "Transmission" (Automatic and Manual transmission) Shop, about the Difference between...Dexron...and...Type F...Automatic Transmission Fluid, and here's what, I recall, Him sayin'............(please note, the following Fluids, were the much older types, at the time)..........The "Type F" auto trans fluid, could take more Heat, temperature-wise, before it started to break down, when compared to, the Dexron auto trans fluid...............He was also sayin,' that, they use "Type F", in, Automatic Transmissions, that were supposed to be filled with the "Dexron Fluid"...Wowsers...!!! (probably, cuz, they get this stuff, by the Barrel...!!!...lol)..............Then, I recall, reading/hearing about (I can't remember, which it was, oh well), some time ago, that, the "Dexron" Fluid, supposedly had, something along the lines of, oh, shall we say, a "Seal Conditioner" (additive in it...???), where-as, the "Type F" Didn't...interesting that.................So then, if a situation, presents itself to You, where, You will able to, try, using ATF/Automatic Transmission Fluid, on a Rubber-like Part or two, please, let us know how it turns out...thanks, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@tristanlawson3088]

I’m gonna try it and see if it works and thanks for the tip

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Sir.....The Accelerator pump gives a squirt of gasoline into the 2 primary (front) throttle bores every time that you push on the gas pedal so you don't get a hesitation when you are "Only Accelerating!".....As for your engines Higher Speeds, there are so many things that can cause this.....Air Filter Clean?...Fuel filter/filters may be dirty?...If it is the Carburetor, sounds like a fuel starvation problem...Fuel Pump maybe?...Main Jet/Jets could be partially plugged (con't)

[@xavierperez8413]

What after market air cleaner goes on this carburetor? I can’t find one that fits my 2 barrel carburetor like the one you are showing in this video? I just rebuilt mines. It’s the original carburetor on my 1979 Camaro 5.0 liter.

[@coltingleave6934]

Hi there my 83 quadret is flooding after I "punch the accelerator like something is sticking should I try this trick? It idles great it's just she I gas it

[@debbysateia1569]

I asked how to replace the accelerator pump

[@RockysRoadshow]

...I'm not really sure why the thought came to me, to try drizzling a few drops of oil down into the accelerator pump cylinder...Hmmmmm...Probably because I might have remembered that Rubber dislikes Mineral-Oil with a passion!...Yep, that's gotta be it all-right!...lol...Seems that the rubber "Swells" a bit, when bathed in oil....Please remember to wipe up any oil that is Pooling near your accelerator pump stem on top of your Quadrajet, for Fire Safety Reasons!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Brain Thizzwell....As I see it, this so called "Trick" that I came up with, was never intended to be a "Be-all-End-all" Permanent Solution for the "Re-Conditioning" of this type of Accelerator Pump Piston Cup/Seal....I've seen Chunks/Bits broken out of some accelerator pump piston seals/cups, and really dried up ones too....Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, there's nothing like a Brand-Spankin-New Accelerator Pump Piston "Seal/Cup", that's for Dang Sure!....lol....Rebuilding = a "Miracle"....Take care

[@MrMrfloridaboy352]

it has been sittin for a bit and i put some gas in the vent for the float bowl and still nothing and it would spit it out threw the overflow vent and still no nothing

[@johnssonsmixed8303]

My 231 has this dualjet, it runs rich AF and just dont want to accelerate, it does like a snail. Dunno if it'll help with oil or anything.

[@hankbridges5055]

The needle-valve probably is worn. That carburetor requires special tools. Best to replace the carb. Kent-Moore has the tools. There's a float gauge that fits down that hole at the air cleaner bolt. Check float level with the engine running. There's a choke-angle gauge. It's a protractor with degrees.

[@dongking6245]

Dont hurt to get a little oil dripped down into that throttle cable housing either just drip some down I it

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Dong King...…….Thanks for watching...…….I hear Ya, when it comes to, lubricating moving parts alright...…….Then, there are other folks, that say, not to put lubricating oil, on things, like, carburetor throttle shafts, because it attracts more dust/dirt, but, to me, lubricating oil, sure beats, metal-on-metal contact, any time of the week...lol...…….Then, there are, the vehicle's door locks, that, the key goes into...…….Some say, to use powdered graphite, and, I have done so, way back when, but now-ah-days, I just use, ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid), that's, about equal to, a 10 weight motor oil, there-abouts, or some, very light (not motor oil), that says, straight 10 weight, on the plastic bottle...…….The Climate (temperature), during winter, will usually be dictating, just what, viscosity (weight), of lubricating oil, that You'll be able to use, without having that oil, thickening up like molasses, when the outside air temperature, heads down, towards the freezing mark, that's for sure...lol...…….Some years ago, in summer-time, I put some straight 50 weight motor oil, that I had kickin' around here, into, an older, Chevy 350 cubic inch V-8 engine, and, during the warmer weather, it started up just fine...then...when the colder temperature (not quite winter-time) arrived, I recall, turning the ignition key, and hearing the (electric) starter motor, just "Groan", and, it barely made the engine's crankshaft, move at all...!!!...lol...so, now, that I learned my lesson, I now use, Castrol 10-W-40 (normal stuff, not synthetic), year round...and look Ma...my engine always starts, anytime of the year...!!!...lol.....and...…till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@danielboone72]

How about putting a few drops of marvel mystery oil down the accelerator shaft? Thanks for the tip!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...danielboone72........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........I don't know, if, marvel mystery oil, will work or not, but, I've heard, that, it's really good stuff.......Most regular motor oil (not the synthetic kind), will usually cause common rubber parts, to swell up a bit........The accelerator pump seal/cup, has to be made out of, the much older rubber-like material, in order for the swelling to take place........It worked very well, on a 1978/1979 Rochester 4-barrel carburetor, way back when........If there are any cracks or pieces, missing from the outer diameter of the seal/cup, then, all hope is lost...lol........The bottom line, as I see it, is to, rebuild the carburetor, or, install a reman (remanufactured), or, new carburetor on the engine, as, a cleaner/with new parts in it carburetor, will usually restore the driveability and performance, back to where it should be, well, on a good day that is, and....till next time....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

...also, has your Carburetor ever been Rebuilt, or Replaced recently?....I have found that, most Carburetors that have been on an engine for a very long time (plenty of Years), will Run/Perform much better with the "New" parts found in a Quality Rebuild Kit, providing that you rebuild, and Set-Up the Carburetor "Correctly" for the demands of the Engine, and the type of Fuel (Gasoline) being used....Could be a Fuel Filter, in your Rochester Carb, or near the Fuel Pump, if you have one...(con't)

[@jpowersgaming1286]

@RockysRoadshow what is the model of this carburetor

[@sameoledance]

nope,but I tweaked the carb and she's doing good...I have a different carb,its original one but forgot the name.. lol has no arm like that.I put a rebuilt kit in my 84 Rv and it was like that one.It was a 454 ..

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Tweet L............Good to hear, that, Ur Engine is Behaving itself, and that's a good thing..................Don't forget to put in a New, Clean, Fuel Filter, or Filters, as the case may be, when needed, in order to keep Ur Engine, as Happy, as it is now, and.......till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@sameoledance]

Did that,wires,plugs,rotor,distributor cap.she hesitates earl start but fine after...keep the videos coming and thank you.please remember,your videos help us women out👍👍👍

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Tweet L................You're Welcome................Did You know about Checking, and Setting (if need be), the "Gap", that's between the spark plug's Inner and Outer Electrodes...???..................The "Gap", should be "Set", to the Vehicle Manufacturer's "Specifications"...(please note...some spark plug Designs, are Not Gap-able)..................Also, try to keep the spark plug Wires "Apart" from one-another, especially, when two or more of them, are running Parallel (as in, side by side) to each other, as well as, Away from any Metal objects, such as Valve/Rocker Covers, and it's also a good idea, to use Plastic (not metal), spark plug Wire "Separators" as well.................The High Voltage that's going through the spark plug Wires, has the ability to, shall we say "Leap" out of, and into another spark plug Wire, that's close by, and even more so, on Ignition Systems, that are somewhat Newer, which will usually be Outputting much "Higher" (secondary) High Voltage, as compared to, oh, lettuce say, something like, the Older Points and Condenser Distributors, that were being used, up till about 1974.....................Also, an Engine, that has a Distributor in/on it, should have the "Initial" (or Base) Ignition Timing, "Set/Adjusted" to Specifications as well, (usually with a Strobe type of Timing Light), for best Power, and if You can keep Ur BIG Foot from mashing down the Gas Pedal (lol), then, some rather good Fuel Economy, it will probably be..................Here's another (trick...???), that I use, when getting Carburetors, that are in reasonably good condition, to work quite well.................First, I usually focus on, getting the Carb to Run really good, while the Engine is up to Operating Temperature, then, once that is accomplished, I then focus on, the Choke System, (some fun that is, at times...lol), that makes all the difference in the World, as to, how well (or not...Yikes...!!!...lol), the Engine Behaves/Performs, right from being Started Cold (aka, Cold Started), as well as, how good the Engine Runs, as it's Warming Up (that be, Before, "it" reaches Operating Temperature, that is)..................So, there You have it Ladies (You) & Gentlemen, for now, and if You happen to have any questions or concerns at all, just give me a Shout (kick, or whatever...lol), and with the help from my Crystal Ball (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, I stole "it" from the Wizard of Oz...Props Department...lol), then, I might have the where-with-all, to be able to help You out (I hope), and.........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@GarthThomson]

Works but only lasted a month on modern 98 fuel so get it home and put a kit through it.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Juan....I'm not sure, just which Carburetor you have there, (if you are still running one, that is), but, I will just assume that it's a Rochester Quadrajet- 4-Barrel-Vacuum-Secondary-Carburetor (and the following will apply somewhat to a Rochester Dualjet-2-Barrel-Carburetor, with the exception of the extra 2-Barrels, or, Secondaries, if you will)...First thing to consider, is, the Gasoline that you buy these days, is somewhere between 3% to 5% "Leaner", and maybe even more...(con't)

[@nwflightnwflight5351]

Fiddling with idle adjustments try to learn carb when gas would leak out of top of carb at idle. Did the oil trick and tested later and it was not leaking gas. Coincident or did that have something to do with it? off to get fire extinguisher.

[@RockysRoadshow]

nwflight nwflight Greetings nwflight nwflight....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment & Question as well.....................................................There are a few things, that can cause, that, kinda like..."Overflowing Toilet Tank"...Scenario/Reality...that You happen, to have had, with Your..."Carburetor"..............................................It's, now..."Place-Your-Bets"....time...at the..."Casino"..."Gaming Table"...for the..."Where-the-Heck-did-all-of-that-Extra-Gasoline-come-from"..."that's-Spillin'-over-the-Top-of-My-Carburetor"...???....................................................I don't actually know, just which Carburetor, that You have there, but, if the Carburetor in question, happens to have a..."Float"...that..."Actuates"...a..."Needle inside its Seat"...to..."Control/Regulate"...the..."Amount"...of..."Gasoline"...that the..."Fuel Pump"...is..."Pumping"...up through, the..."Fuel Line"...to the..."Entrance Fitting/Screw Threaded Hole"...on Your..."Carburetor"...would have me thinkin', that the..."Float" (the Nitrophyl type, that kinda looks like black plastic)...might be..."Absorbing Gasoline"...which in turn, will have the...Carburetor "Float"...start to become..."Less Buoyant" (aka, picture a Row-Boat, half full of water), and, when it does, the Carburetor..."Float"..."Will Not"...be able, to..."Push the Needle into its Seat"...in order to..."Stop the Flow of Gasoline"...at the..."Correct & Predetermined Level"...which, by the way...is supposed to be..."LOWER, then the TOP of the FLOAT BOWL"...or...if-in, that there..."Gasoline, keeps on-ah-Flowin', without Stoppin' "Below the Top of the Float Bowl"...well...You know what the Result will be, as, You have already..."Experienced"...the..."Exact Outcome"...!!!..."Yikes"...and like You were sayin'..."Run"...for, that there..."Fire Extinguisher"...!!!..........................................................(Please Note...Some Carburetors have 2 Float Bowls, along with 2 Floats, and, 2 Sets of Needles & Seats, or, put it this way...2 Needles and 2 seats).......................................................All-Righty then, Lettuce (like that spellin' do Ya?...lol) see, just what, some of the "Other Possibilities", might perhaps.."Cause"...the..."Spillin'-of-Gasoline-Over-the-Top-of-the-Carburetor"...shall we........................................................Lettuce..."Follow"...the..."Same Path"...that the..."Gasoline Takes"...right from, where it comes-ah-Spewin', from that there..."Gas Station's, Gas Pump Nozzle".................................................................Gasoline goes into the "Filler Neck" or Pipe, that leads/connects to the Vehicle's Gas Tank itself, once the "Gas Cap" is "Removed".................................................The "Gas Cap" has to..."Vent Properly"...or...."Pressure in the Gas Tank"...can sometimes..."Build-Up"...which can actually, kinda..."Act"...somewhat, like a "Fuel Pump", so to speak, as this "Un-Wanted Pressure", as I have seen, on a Hot Day, with the Fuel Line Disconnected, from the Carburetor, actually Cause, Gasoline, to Start coming out of that there Disconnected, and Higher then the Gas Tank, Fuel Line, not all that far, from where the Carburetor was, and, that was with..."The Engine Not Running" (drip...Drip...DRIP)...!!!......................................................So then, as for a Fuel System, for a Vehicle's Engine, with a Carburetor, sittin' on top of it, is concerned, the Gasoline, then makes its way, from the..."Gas Tank"...through the Fuel Line, all the way, up to the..."Mechanical type of Fuel Pump"...............................................Gotta Watch, that there..."Fuel Pump Pressure"...as, sometimes, a Fuel Pump, that gets Installed, might just be, putting out..."Too Much Fuel Pressure"...and, if it happens to be..."More Fuel Pressure"...that the...Carburetor "Float/Needle and Seat"...can handle...then, that there..."Over-Pressurized Gasoline"...will usually, just..."Force its Way"..right..."Past"...the..."Needle and Seat Assembly"...and, if, and when it does...just.."Repeat, with, what You Saw with Your Flooding Carburetor"...when it did its...Not So Wanted..."Thing"...!!!.......................................................Also, sometimes, a..."Piece of Crud/Debris/Dirt/etc."...can get..."Lodged or Stuck"..."Between"..the..."Needles Sealing End"..and the...usually, made out of Brass..."Seat"...which will...Cause a Leak...that will..."Prevent"...the..."Needle and Seat Assembly"...from..."Stopping"...the..."Flow of Gasoline"...which, when, an over-abundance of Gasoline, makes its way, right past the Needle and Seat Assembly without Stopping, well, it's once again, time for..."Over-the-Top-of-the-Carburetor's-Float-Bowl-Gasoline-Flooding-we-go-again"...!!!...................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...as I see it...the..."Bottom Line Here"...as it applies to Your Carburetor's..."Over-the-Top-of-the-Float-Bowl-Gasoline-FLOODING-Situation"...is concerned, is that, there happens to be..."Too Much Gasoline, making its Way, into Your Float Bowl"...!!!........................................................I can't really see, that, the Oil that You administered, to Your Carburetor, was what, might have Lowered the Gasoline Level in Your Carburetor's Float Bowl, but hey, Stranger Things, have been known to happen, alright!.......................................................Aside, from some of Your Carburetors Parts and Pieces, becoming Worn, or, out of Adjustment, there are "Two Things", that I will now mention............................................................The Gasoline these days, will usually have, what is known as..."Ethanol" (aka, Alcohol, sometimes derived from Corn), that is Added into the Gasoline, that, might cause the Internals of Your Carburetor, to maybe..."Corrode/Gum-Up"...and, will usually, cause Carburetors, to start Running, well, kinda..."Lean" (aka, Air to Fuel Ratio) as well...............................................................Last, but not least, one of the..."Worst Enemies"...of a Carburetor...is..."DIRT" (aka, any Crud/Yuck-ees), that "Are Not" supposed to be, Inside Any, of the Carburetor's..."Tiny Passages"...and such, as, this...DIRT"...can at times, cause, some..."Very Un-Wanted"..."Engine & Carburetor"..."Performance & Economy"..."PROBLEMS"...!!!..................................................."Still Awake"...???...lol..................................................and, as always..................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@jackstrickland3763]

thank u very much weres a good place to get a rebuild kit for it

[@mikeriley8546]

great info thanks

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Mike Riley...…...You're welcome, and thanks for watching...…..This so called, oil the carburetor "trick" of mine, will usually, only work, if the accelerator pump, piston's seal/cup, is made out of, the older, rubber-like material, as well as, there can't be any, shall we say, chunks, missing from its circumference (outer diameter)………..The older type of rubber, will usually swell up a bit, when it comes into contact with motor oil...…….This "trick", is just a temporary fix (if it even works?), and, a proper carburetor rebuild should be done, as, the rebuild kit, will usually include, a brand new accelerator pump, piston seal/cup, and maybe, along with, it being made out of, a much better material as well, and.....till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greeting Jack....Is the Lever (usually a green color) that pushes down on top of the Accelerator Pump Stem making the pump stem go up and down?....If there is fuel (gasoline) in your float bowl, and the accelerator pump stem is going up and down, then, it might be that your accelerator pump Piston/Seal is really worn out (they do dry up and break)....or, you have a blockage (plugged up) passageway somewhere, as well as the check valve is malfunctioning....Rebuild Time?....Take care my Friend.

[@MrMrfloridaboy352]

i have a sbc 305 with a 2 barrel q jet 210 and i dont see gas squitin into the barrels at all wat would case that

[@steveforbin911]

I have 1975 Chevy nova 6 cyl 4 door sedan with this issue. Thanks for the tip. Would an oil soaked felt pad sort of make this last as the oil would keep it lubed for longer time. Only 19381 miles on the engine. Would you advise just fix this or do a whole carbonator kit?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Steve Forbin……….Thanks for watching...…...Well, an oil soaked felt pad, probably won't work, very well at all, because, that felt pad, would probably just hold the oil, within itself...……..The motor oil, pretty much, has to go, far down inside, where that, accelerator pump's, rubber-like seal/cup is hiding...…….This, so called "carb trick" of mine, is really, just a temporary fix, providing that, it works at all...……..If it were me, then, I would rebuild the carburetor, that way, it will get, the "new" accelerator pump "seal/cup" (piston), and then, it should work properly, as it should be doing...…….It's a good idea, to use a new "float" (or floats, as the case may be), and, if it has a choke pull-off (looks, kinda like, a little space ship...lol), then, install a "new" one, because, there's probably a rubber-like diaphragm, hiding inside of it, that will probably deteriorate, with heat and age....…….The rebuild kit, will usually have, some very good, (printed on paper) instructions, that will usually be found, inside of the box, that also has, some good drawings/pictures too, that will help you out...……..You can also buy, a carburetor, that has already been rebuilt, but, some people are saying, that, some of them, might not be all that good, just sayin' now...…….Good luck, and...….till next time...….be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@camaro9569]

I have a 76 c10 with a 350. Every time I floor it it either hesitates or shuts off. Need info please

[@sweetestgirl2471]

Found a 1979 grand prix carburetor fit or work on a 1981 cutlass supreme

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...sweetestgirl2471...…….Thanks for watching...…...Lem-me-see now...Hmmm...put a 1979 Rochester carburetor (2 or 4 barrel carb...???), on, a 1981 vehicle, that, is not the same as, the one that it came off of, has me thinkin', that, maybe it might work, or, maybe not...…….Even if the carb in question, came off of, the very same make and model of vehicle, but, being different years, as in, putting a 1979 model carb, onto an 1981 vehicle (as in, grand prix to grand prix...or...cutlass supreme to cutlass supreme), then, there could have been, some changes made, as in, the carb, might have some extra gadgets (parts), added onto the 1981 model, that, the 1979 carb, did not have, possibly...……..Then, even if, the outside of, those two carbs in question, looked the same on the outside, then, the internals (insides), where you can't see, might have, a different calibration (due to, the possible changes made, in the internal, air & fuel passages and jets)………..Also, are the engines, the very same size, as in, the same cubic inch displacement, or, being measured in liters, and also, do they have, the same number of cylinders...???...because, most carburetors, are usually calibrated for, a particular size of engine...…..If the vehicle has to be..."Smog" (emissions) tested, then, Ur best bet, is to use the "Original" carb, make and model, or, the Fail word, might be printed on, the test paper results...!!! (California, and maybe New York too, will probably, even do, a "visual" inspection, to see if Ya have the correct carb on the engine...!!!)......….I have spent, lots & lots of time, fixin'...a...1980 cutlass supreme 2-door, that has a 4.3 liter (260 cubic inch) V-8 engine in it, that also has, a Rochester 2-barrel carburetor on it as well, so yeah, one could say, that I know this particular car, quite well...lol...…….If Ya might want to try, installing that "other" carb, then, make sure, that, "everything", that connects onto the new carb, matches up correctly, and, make damn sure, that the "throttle cable", for the gas pedal, moves freely, and also, has a bit of "slack" in it, when the carburetor is at curb idle speed, so the engine doesn't take off on you...!!!...……Will the air cleaner fit properly...???...does the fuel line, go the same place on both carbs...??? (some go straight in, while others, go in, at a 90 degree angle)……...Look for a bunch of numbers, that are stamped into the carb's main body (might be about eight numbers, or, some might have, a mix of, numbers and letters, all in a row, possibly), and then, search, and go to, the...Rockauto...website, then, look up your vehicle, and see what the carb model (or models?), should be, just sayin' now...…….There were so many different Rochester carbs made, over the years, almost an unbelievable amount, at that, just so Ya know...…….Ya might consider rebuilding your original carb, or maybe, buying a rebuilt one, that is the very same model number, as your original one is, perhaps...…….When the carb doesn't work very good, then, it's usually called, a..."Gut-less Supreme"...!!!...lol...and......till next time...…Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@kailubhavens2173]

I have an older 2 jet and it doesn’t have the same lever for the accelerator pump. So I’m not sure if I’m able to do this trick

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Kailub Havens.......Thanks for watching.....I hear Ya...….In order, to even, attempt my so called "trick", then, the bottom line, is that, the motor oil, has to be able to make contact, with that rubber-like, piston seal/cup...…….Also, the seal/cup, has to be made, out of a material, that will swell somewhat, when it's in contact, with the motor oil...…….There also, can't be, any chunks of material, missing from the seal/cup's outer diameter (equals Big leak), and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

...One more thing about taking your Dualjet apart....Watch out for the "2"-HIDDEN Screws that are Hiding under the Choke Plate!!!!!!!!!!....Make sure that you take out those "2" Hidden Screws, and Never use much prying force to separate the sections of your carburetor, or your carburetor will be ruined!....Bye 4 now...

[@MrKrunkcity]

hey I have 1984 231 buick v6 and it runs but cuts off, im getting gas,but the carb is backfiring spitting out gas as if it was too much in there and it wont rev up at all like its stuck in neutral please help me out rockysroadshow I have been working on this for about 8 months and its mind boggling!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Randy n....Congratulations, on getting your Boat up on plane without such a struggle, or, is it a Displacement-Hull?....At first, I found that I had to put a few drops of oil on the accelerator pump stem about once a week, then, as time progressed, my 1979 Quadrajet needed the oil treatment every couple of days, and that went on for well over a year or two....I started with 10w-40 motor oil, then, later, I started to use Straight 50 Weight, as it seemed to last a bit longer....(con't)

[@roytyszka2325]

I'm trying it. Can you tell me why i hear a clicking noise while engine is running, then it will go away. 85 grand prix 3.8 v6.???

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Roy Tyszka………Thanks for watching...……That clicking noise, that you are hearing, might be, one or more hydraulic valve lifters, that are sticking a bit, which will cause some clearance, where there shouldn't be any, and, it's usually this not wanted clearance, between two or more parts in the valve train, that will probably cause that clicking noise...……If the sticking is quite bad, then, Ya might hear a "clacking" sound, which might only be heard, while starting a cold engine, and it might become a bit quieter, as the engine warms up, or, might just keep "clacking" away, even when the engine is fully warmed up too...……Dirty motor oil, can be the cause of sticking hydraulic valve lifters, so, always change the motor oil and oil filter at the specified oil changing intervals........Sometimes, a fan belt, can be the cause of, some very strange noises too, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@michaelg5714]

I have a major qjet issue when it's cold outside and only when it's cold. Car runs very rich to the point I have gas leaking all over my intake and it hesitates very bad to the point it cuts off at red lights.. But when it's a warm day, zero issues.. Any idea if this may be my issue??

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Michael Gorzkowski..............Thanks for watching..............This, so called trick of mine, video, will usually, only affect the Acceleration of the vehicle, from a stop sign or red light, as an example............That Leaking Gasoline should get fixed as soon as possible, cuz, a Fire might start in the engine compartment, more so, when the engine is hot/hot exhaust manifold/s...!!!.............Usually, gasoline Leaking from a Carburetor, will usually be the Needle and Seat, Not stopping the Gasoline Flow, once the float bowl is filled-up to the required (wet) fuel level (in the float bowl), and the gasoline Level, keeps getting higher and higher, until it overflows, and, that gasoline makes its way, to the outside of the carburetor (or in some cases, that gasoline, can trickle down, right into the Oil, in the engine's oil pan), so, smell your engine's oil Level checking Dipstick, for the smell of Gasoline, just to be sure............Sometimes, the Float, that actuates the Needle, that gets pushed into the Seat, to stop the gasoline flow, at the right time, doesn't work very good, and, sometimes, (the float) can start to become less buoyant/sink, which will make the (wet) fuel level too high, and maybe, Leak, to the outside of the carburetor, if really bad.............A Nitrophyl Float (kinda looks like black plastic), can act like a sponge does, as in, absorb gasoline, and make it sink in the float bowl, sometimes, just a little, other times, a lot.............A Brass (hollow) Float, can get a pin-hole or crack in it, and then, gasoline gets inside of it, making it sink as well, and, same thing happens, the Float sinks, and the (wet) fuel Level gets too High (flooding maybe?)..............What's odd, is, You were sayin', that, your engine runs fine when it's warm..........Might be, that, some dirt/debris, is preventing the (float actuated) needle, from fully seating in the seat possibly...???............If your carburetor is quite old/has lost of miles on it, then, they tend to get gummed-up/dirty/worn quite a bit, and sometimes, they just don't work so good..............If Your Rochester Quadrajet is really old/has lots of miles on it, maybe, consider rebuilding it, along with a "new float", or, getting a new or rebuilt Quadrajet, or other carburetor if you like.............Good luck, and.........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@marychapin8690]

Are You still doing this after you rebuilt it? Did You do something so you wouldn't have to and what was that.??

[@RockysRoadshow]

+Mary Chapin Greetings Mary Chapin....Thanks for watching, and for Your interesting questions as well...........................In case You might not know, and that is, that most new cars these days, don't have a Carburetor on their Engines, in North America (since about the 1980's there-abouts), where Fuel Injection (with one or more Fuel Injectors), well, kinda took over............................That, Worn, rather Tired, Accelerator Pump Piston "Seal/Cup", that actually did Swell-up (using my Trick...lol), as in, having some Motor Oil Applied to "it", made so, that, that Accelerator Pump's, Piston "Seal/Cup", made reasonably good contact, (once again), all around the Inside of the Accelerator Pump's, Cylinder Wall (the Cylinder, be-in, Round in shape, that is), where the Accelerator Pump's Piston, and its Seal/Cup resides, and, by having done, just that, my Engine Didn't Hesitate (and complain...lol), when-ever I took off, from a red light or stop sign, well, until it needed another "Dose" of Motor Oil, that is (and look Ma, No Prescription needed...what-so-ever...lol)....................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, I did indeed, "Rebuild" the Rochester Carburetor alright, and, Truth be Told, it wasn't "this" Rochester 2 Barrel Dualjet Carburetor, that You saw in this KZbin Video of mine, but rather, "it" was a Rochester 4 Barrel Quadrajet Carburetor...!!!...oh, and, that Accelerator Pump Piston, with that Orange-ish colored Seal/Cup on it, is out of a Carter Thermoquad 4 barrel Carburetor...!!! (see that, the Hand really is, Quicker then the Eye)...lol...................Nah, not really, it's just that, that (other) Rochester Quadrajet, (that I Rebuilt), was already Installed on the 350 cubic inch Chevy Engine, that's all.............................But, guess what...???...both Rochester Carburetors, that I mentioned above, happen to have the "Same-Looking" Accelerator Pump on "them".................................Once, a, shall we say, Good Quality Rochester Carburetor "Rebuild Kit" is purchased, there is usually, a, Nice, New, Accelerator Pump "Piston Assembly" in the Box, and, already, Installed-On, that there, nice, new, Piston Assembly, happens to be, a, nice, new, Accelerator Pump Piston..."Seal/Cup"...that, by the way..."Does-Not"...want My "Trick", anywhere Near "it"...!!!...lol...or, in other words...Not Required, due to a very Good Fit, inside the Accelerator Pump's "Cylinder" (and again I say, once again...lol).............................Lettuce Simplify, what's really go-in on here, shall we.................................If...???... You have ever seen, a Toy-Water-Squirt-Gun/Pistol (the little short kind, and, even better yet, if it happens to be a made, of a see-through, type of plastic), then, a Carburetor's Accelerator Pump, shall we say "Squirts", pretty much, in the same manner, but, this time it's not Water, it's Gasoline, and, instead of Your Index Finger, actuating the "Trigger", on the Water-Squirt-Gun/Pistol, the, shall we say "Action", takes place, in the following manner..............Lettuce begin.............It's Not Ur Finger this time, it's Ur..."FOOT"...lol...................Ur Foot, presses on the Gas Pedal...then...the Gas Pedal, actuates a Cable, or Rod & Linkage, which in turn, actuates a Lever, that is connected to the Carburetor's primary throttle shaft...then...that primary throttle shaft's Lever, usually has a linkage, that connects between it, and the Arm/Lever, that presses down, on the end of the Accelerator Pump's, Piston Stem/Shaft, and when it does, it makes, just like, when Ur Finger Squeezes, that, good ole, Toy-Water-Squirt-Gun/Pistol, but, and I say But, it's not Water Squirtin' this time, it's Gasoline, so, Don't Light a Match, or..."Boom"...!!!.............................This, so called "Trick", of mine, made it so, I didn't have to Rebuild the "Other" Rochester Quadrajet Carburetor, in such a short time frame, and, I think, I kept addin' Oil to it, for about a year or so, but, that there procrastinatin', had to end some time, and, yes, it finally did, as, I did indeed, get around to Rebuilding "it"...!!!...lol.............................Bottom line here is............If and when, an Accelerator Pump's Piston Seal/Cup, Doesn't Fit so well, in its Cylinder, that Gasoline Squirt, will usually become too weak/not enough, and, without enough Gasoline being Squirted, when the Accelerator Pump, is told to do so, then, the Engine, will usually Hesitate, from a red light or stop sign, until it gets going fast enough, that is...............................The gasoline around here these days, probably has about 10% Ethanol (aka, alcohol) in its Blend, and, some of the materials, that the older carburetors, and their parts are made of, Don't take kindly, to this Ethanol/Alcohol stuff........................Then, some of the Carburetor Parts, just plain Wear-Out, due to being exposed to mileage, heat, and old age too................................Now then, if a Carburetor, was anything like a Twinkie (You know, that sponge treat with the cream filling)...then, the damn Carburetor would last, almost forever...!!!...lol........................New Carburetor Parts...Good...........Old & Worn-out Carburetor Parts.......well, You answer that one...OK.................Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@MrMrfloridaboy352]

i also tried to move the trottle cable and still didnt work i know its gettin gas to it to

[@RockysRoadshow]

...how well your Engine Performs, due to how a certain Gasoline Formulation can, and will, upset the Air/Fuel Ratio, that a Carburetor was "Originally-Calibrated" for....I have had some very good luck with Rochester Carburetors, and the way that they Run/Perform, even with up to 10% Ethanol in Gasoline that is rated at 87-Octane, mind you, Engines only had about 8.5-to-1 Compression Ratio....Does your Engine "Hesitate" when you drive your C-10 "Normally", without Flooring-it?...(con't)

[@copperjacket00]

awesome

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...copper jacket...........Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too..........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...by, just drizzling a bit of motor oil, down into the accelerator pump cylinder, it sure (temporarily?), fixed that annoying, accelerating hesitation from a stop, that I was having, at that particular time...........Also, by doing so, I didn't have to hurry-up, with, having to do a carburetor rebuild, to cure that problem, oh, and, I kept adding a bit of motor oil, to that Rochester four- barrel carburetor, for a few years at that, well, until I finally forced myself, to get that much needed carb rebuild, actually done & completed...lol...and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@dannybam1]

Hi there is it difficult to replace the actuator pump I got a 1980 Rochester 4 Barrel its hard start the car in the morning everytime I think that's the problem

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...D B...…..Thanks for watching...…..Well, if your engine starts up ok, when it is fully warmed up to operating temperature, then, to me, I would probably suspect, that the carburetor's "choke" system, is not working, as it should be, or, isn't adjusted properly, or maybe even, you might not be "cold" starting your engine properly...…….Try "cold" starting your engine the following way, well, if you're not already doing so, that is...…….Having the engine "cold", then, push the gas pedal all the way down, then, take your foot, off of the gas pedal, then, turn the ignition key, and try to start the engine, then, if the so called, automatic "choke" system is working properly, then, the engine should start, and also, be running a bit faster, than, it usually does, when the engine is up to operating temperature...………Then, to "lower" the idle speed, while, the still cold engine is running, just simply "tap" down a bit, on the gas pedal, and, the engine idle speed, should get a bit lower, and make sure, that, the engine "is not" running too fast, "before" you put the transmission in gear...!!!...……..The choke system, really isn't "automatic" at all, but to me, is really "semi-automatic", and you'll see why, in the following...…….When the engine is "cold", it needs a richer air/fuel mixture (more gasoline, and less air mixed together), to help start the "cold" engine...…….When "cold" starting the engine, here's what is actually happening...…….When you push the gas pedal all the way down, then release it, then, it allows the metal choke plate, to close all the way, which prevents just about all of the air, from entering, the primary (front) side of the carburetor, so when the engine, shall we say, starts to inhale (when cranking over, to get started), then, it's mostly gasoline, that goes through to the engine, then, once it starts to run on its own, then, that metal choke plate, will open, just a little bit (between about, 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch, there-abouts), which, will then, allow, a bit more air, to enter the carb, and mix with the gasoline, which the engine likes, once it starts to run on its own...…….There is also (cold engine), fast-idle "linkage", that is connected to, and actuates, that metal choke plate's opening amount, as well as, how fast the engine idles, while it is cold, and, also when, its not quite up to operating temperature as well...........As the engine warms up, then, the metal choke plate will start to open up slowly, as the engine, starts getting warmer, and also, the fast idle (speed) linkage, at the very same time, will go to a slower idle speed, as the engine warms up as well...……..In my eyes, it's a "semi-automatic" choke, because, the idle speed won't get lower ,"unless", the gas pedal gets moved (or tapped on), which will prevent, the fast idle speed "screw", from becoming "trapped" (stuck on), a higher step, of the fast idle cam...……….If the carb's "accelerator" pump system, isn't working, as good as it should be doing, then, a fully "warmed up engine", will usually "hesitate" or "stumble", whenever you start out from, a stop sign or red light, while just driving normally (easy to notice symptom, alright)………..As for me, if the accelerator pump isn't working very well, then, I will usually "rebuild" the whole carburetor, using a carburetor "rebuild kit", why you ask...???...well, it's because, the top of the carb, has to come off, in order to get at, the accelerator pump's piston assembly, and also, it'll probably be, because of, how old and crusty, and, with lots & lots of miles or kilometers, that, the poor old carb has travelled, and, should be cleaned out "internally", because of, how gunked-up, some carbs can get, over time...…….I also, install a new "float", or floats, as the case may be, because, some of the older ones, that kinda look like black plastic, can sometimes absorb gasoline, then, start to sink somewhat, which will usually cause, the carb, to feed too much gasoline, into the engine, which will decrease mileage/kilometer-age, as well as, have Ya spending even "more" money, at the gas station, needlessly, and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@dannybam1]

@@RockysRoadshow awesome dude! I appreciate you taking the time to write all that information that's a good information for me to check out on the truck thanks a lot man somebody told me you might be the actuator pump but I'm going to try your advice try to see what I can do thank you

[@Jdaminbf4]

My dad has a 67 Oldsmobile and whenever you hit the gas the car bogs down and it wont downshift to 1st gear or open the other 2 butterflies. is this pump thing the problem? We've taken it to 3 mechanics and not 1 of them could fix it!

[@RockysRoadshow]

allahu akbar Greetings allahu akbar....Thanks for watching, and now, I'll do what I can, to help You and Your Dad, get his 1967 Oldsmobile's problems sorted out, and hopefully, once said and done, that 67 Olds, will be Purring like a Kitten, and when asked to, by Who-ever-the-Driver's..."Big Foot"...happens to be, when-ever tryin' to...Accelerate to..."Infinity and Beyond"...(Performance-wise, that is...lol)...and also, there are lots, did I say Lots, of "Things", that have to be taken into consideration, in order to have that good ole "67-Olds", Run, pretty much the way "it" did, when "it" was Brand Spankin' New (hopefully, that is)......................................Here's what I would be thinkin', and also, the way, that I would be working my way through, the problems, that that "67 Olds", seems to be having, as You were sayin' in Your comment.........................................So then, here we go.................................If the Gasoline, that gets pumped into that 67 Old's Gas Tank, has any "Ethanol" (aka Alcohol) in its "Blend", usually, the More...%/Per-cent-age of Ethanol, that is actually in the Gasoline, that You Buy, where You Live, will usually make the Older Carburetors "Run" a bit "Leaner", as in, a Leaner..."Air/Fuel Ratio"...when compared to, the good ole Gasoline, that was available, way back in 1967, that probably never had any Ethanol/Alcohol in it, at that point in time.....................................How does the Engine "Run", when Driving the Olds "Normally", both....Hot and Cold...???..............................If...???...the Engine, Runs quite well, while being up to/at "Operating Temperature", while taking it easy on the Gas Pedal, and there..."Is Not Any Hesitation"...while taking off, from a Stop Sign or Red Light, while taking it easy on the Gas Pedal, then, that's tellin' me, that the...Carb's..."Accelerator Pump" (Fuel...System/Circuit), is at least, Working alright, under that particular, Engine Operating Condition..................Does Your Dad..."Do"..."Regular Maintenance"...and, a..."Tune-Up"...at the Manufacturers, Suggested/Recommended...."Time"...and/or..."Mileage/Kilometer"..."Intervals"...???...as that alone, in itself, will have a very Great Affect, on just how..."Good or Bad"...the Engine "Runs/Behaves", both Performance-wise, as well as, "Economy/Gas Mileage-wise" is concerned..................................Everything, that's Part of the "Ignition System", has to have "Parts", that are in Very "Good Condition", and, any applicable "Adjustments/Settings", have to be..."With-in Specifications"..or, the Engine will usually "Suffer" quite a bit, not to mention, that, that poor ole Engine, will probably be, "Burning/Wasting Gasoline", that "it" really Does Not Need, at any given time/operating condition.....................................Are all of the Engine's.."Parts", including the Ignition System Parts..."Factory Original"...Type/Ones...or, are there any..."High Performance"...Aftermarket/Brand "Parts", Added, as well as, any "Modifications", over and above, that of what, was "Installed at the Factory/Assembly Line", when the 1967 Olds, was Brand New...???.....................................As for the Old's..."Automatic Transmission"...is concerned (3 Speed Automatic, I presume...???)..."Always"..."Have the Engine Running/Performing Very Good/Great"..."BEFORE"...Doing Any..."Adjustments".."What-so-ever"...on that..."Automatic Transmission"...as, things, such as the Automatic Transmission's..."Shifting and Shift Points"...are..."Greatly Affected"...by..."How Good or Bad"...the Engine Runs/Behaves, at any given time...!!!..................................The Old's Automatic Transmission, might, or, might not have, what is known/called, a..."Vacuum Modulator"...which is Critical, to how the Auto-Trans..."Shifts"...as well as, at..."What, Engine RPM's/Revolutions per Minute"...that the Automatic Transmission..."Will Shift At"..................................If the Old's, Automatic Transmission, happens to have, a Linkage or Cable, as the case may be, that is Connected to the Automatic Transmission, from the Carb's..."Primary Throttle Shaft's"..."Bracket/Lever"...then, the..."Adjustment/Setting"..."Has To Be Done Very Accurately"...and..."With-in the Specifications"...for that..."Automatic Transmission & Engine Combination"...in order to have the Automatic Transmission..."Shift"...as in..."Down-Shift"...and..."Up-Shift"...at the Correct..."Speedometer Speed/s"...and...any, and all..."Engine RPM's/Load Conditions"...as well, and the most Important thing here, happens to be, so the..."Automatic Transmission"..."Does Not get Damaged"...or have something like, the Engine..."Over Rev-ing past Red Line"...getting, Damaged/Destroyed, due to a..."Non-Up-Shifting Automatic Transmission"...and, if any of these "Not-Wanted Things"..."Happen", then, Things, might, shall we say, become, "Very Expensive to Fix"..."Yikes"...!!!..........................So then, before, getting to the point, of maybe "Rebuilding the Carburetor", well, if need be, that is..."Make Sure"...that..."ALL"..."Required & Regular Maintenance"...and a..."Tune-Up"...is "Done"...!!!...or, both, Your Dad, and Yourself, will probably end up, going on, a..."Wild Goose Chase"...!!!...lol.....................................Also, does the "Olds", still have the good ole..."Points and Condenser"...Type of..."Distributor"...Installed in the Engine...???.................................If You can tell me, the...Oldsmobile Car "Model" (Cutlass...Cutlass Supreme...etc.)..."Engine Size"...the..."Type/Model of Automatic Transmission"...and if any..."Modifications"...that were ever Made/Performed, that are..."Not Factory Stock"...in nature, then, basically, the More that I Know about that good ole "1967 Oldsmobile", usually, the More, that I will be able to help, You and Your Dad out, in having a Great Running "Olds", once again, and again I say...Hopefully................................So then.....Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@Jdaminbf4]

we run it with no ethanol and pour led additive in the tank too, runs just fine hot and cold, EVERYTHING is original except for some new carb hoses and new spark plugs (GM plugs), 2 speed automatic with OD, if you're kinda rough on the gas pedal it shifts kinda hard into second but i assume thats normal for only a 2 speed, i can't tell you what rpm's its shifting at because theirs no tachometer, its a Cutlass supreme 330 v8, yes it still has the points installed. hope that helps :)

[@RockysRoadshow]

allahu akbar Greetings allahu akbar....Just try to keep in mind, that, that are Many Things, that can cause Similar, Engine Running/Performance Problems, and, here's probably the way that I would try to Cure it......................................All "Ignition" related Parts, have to be, in, almost "Like New Condition", and "Adjusted/Set to Specifications", and any Part/Component, that looked questionable to me, would more then likely be Replaced with a New Part, or Parts, as the case may be...............When it comes to the good ole General Motors/Oldsmobile/Chevy/Pontiac/etc,..."Points & Condenser"...V-8 Engine, Type of Distributor (usually had that sheet metal, slide up & down, window-like cover on it, so as to, make the Points Gap/Dwell Adjustment, with an Allen Key, without having to remove the distributor cap, like some others out there), I would be Checking/Setting the (Ignition Points) "Dwell"...and the...(Initial) "Ignition Timing", at least Twice a Year (Spring and Fall perhaps?), or about every 6,000 Miles, at the very Least, and even more-so, if I Sensed, that the Engine was starting to even Hint-at, having the slightest feel/indication, of a "Miss-Fire" at all.................................Most Oldsmobile Distributors, as I recall, "Rotate" (the rotating direction of the Rotor inside the distributor cap)..."Counter-Clockwise"...and the..."Initial...Ignition Timing"...from what I've experienced in the past, is "Set", some-what "Different", from most of the "Other" Points & Condenser Distributors, up till, about 1974 that is....................................The Oldsmobile Engines/Distributors, that I've "Set" the "Initial...Ignition Timing"...on, were usually "Set", with a fairly Accurate Tachometer, in around the "1100 RPM" Range (as per Specifications) in "Park", with any applicable Vacuum Hoses, and or Wires, Plugged or Disconnected, as Specified, and, the Distributor, Set, and Locked Down, at the "Specified Degrees Before Top Dead Center"..."AFTER"...the Ignition Points "Dwell" (30 Degrees perhaps?) was Adjusted/Set, because, when-ever a Person "Changes", the "Points "Dwell/Gap Setting"...(also "Changes", as the Points...Contact Points/Pads...Erode/Wear as well...!!!), that, my Friend, will also Alter/Change, not only the "Initial Ignition Timing", but the (Spark)Timing, Through-out, the Whole Advance Curve as well...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol......................Make sure, that, if, and when, Who-ever..."Sets the Distributor Points Dwell"...and...."Ignition Timing"...that, he or she, knows what they are Doing, and also, make sure that, They, "Set/Adjust" the "Dwell" (First), then the..."Initial Ignition Timing"...as per..."Specifications"...!!!...or...lack of Performance and/or Fuel Economy might be the end result, and maybe, a Damaged/Destroyed Engine might happen as well, and, I hope not.............................Now then, here are a few things to consider...............................Did Who-ever?...Check, and adjust, if needed, the Spark Plug "Gaps", Before they were Installed in Your Olds 330 cubic inch V-8...???...........................Always try to get the "Exact Specifications", for Your "Exact" Engine and Car, if You want things to work well, and, as they should...........................I'm assuming, that, You just might have, a Rochester 4MV (Quadrajet?) 4 Barrel Carburetor, or something similar, that has, what is known as a Divorced Choke, that has the Bi-Metal, Circular, Thermostatic, Choke Spring & Bracket/Housing, that Mounts, in Your Intake Manifold perhaps...................................There is usually a "Lockout" Gizmo, on those 4 Barrel Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors, that will Prevent the Secondary Throttle Plates/Butterflies from "Opening", Until the Engine warms up to (almost) Operating Temperature, so, before You or Pops, goes into..."Pedal-to-the-Metal-Mode"...make sure that, the Engine is Fully Warmed up to "Operating Temperature"..."Before"...Doing so...!!!...lol.................................If that "Lock-Out" Gizmo, is Not Adjusted Correctly, or is Faulty, in some way or other, that, in itself, might just Prevent the Secondaries, from be-in able to Do Their Job at all....................................The Secondary "Air Door/Plate" (on Top of the Carb, at the rear of it), has to have the Torsional Spring "Set" Correctly", and, if applicable, the Choke "Pull-Off", has to be in good Condition, and the Linkage, that usually Connects from it, to the Secondary Air Door, has to be Adjusted properly as well, so, things will work right...............Fuel Pump Working good...?..............Fuel Filter, in the Front of the Carburetor, and, if any Other, as well...Clean...???.....Air Filter Clean...???....................Like I was sayin' the other day, there are "Lots" of Things, that can Cause these types of Problems alright...so, try to keep an open Mind, and not come to a Conclusion, before checking almost everything else out as well...or, just might end up be-in, another..."Wild Goose Chase"...after all...lol..........................Well.......Till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@p3l1k44n1]

Get a repair set. (It has all the gaskets + repair parts you need.) Take the carb off and clean it thoroughly and install the kit. (Make sure that the butterfly valve shaft does not have much play cause it can cause an air leak) Make sure that it has no vacum leaks.

[@ageneraleducation2167]

Maybe try, whenever, a higher quality, uv protectant, a better choice than armor all.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...A General Education...........Thanks for watching..........Well, I kinda doubt, that, any of those uv protectant liquids (or what-ever), would be able to make, a regular type of "rubber" material, to be able to, shall we say, "swell-up", as much as, good ole regular motor oil, is capable of doing, as far as, I might know...........Also, the motor oil, will blend-into/mix-with, the gasoline, that's inside of the accelerator pump's cylinder, where-as, I kinda doubt that, the uv protectant, will be able to, mix very well, with that gasoline at all..........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, I've gone through quite a few bottles, of the good ole "armor-all" liquid, over many, many years alright, and still use the stuff, still, to this very day..........Thanks again for your suggestion, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@ageneraleducation2167]

It was just a reference, to the making rubber last due to the exposure issues. I agree with the expansion thing.

[@beetee801]

Good

[@RockysRoadshow]

...due to the E-85, or so called Gasoline that contains 85% Ethanol (alcohol), and perhaps only 15% Real Gasoline in that particular Mix....You see my Friend, the Gasoline that you were able to purchase in 1976 (your 76 C-10), was "Calibrated" for (Jet Sizes), makes your carburetors "Calibration" far too "Lean" for the Gasoline that you buy these days, especially, if it's the E-85 stuff, if, that's the stuff you are filling your Gas Tank with....That's "1" consideration, effecting...(con't)

[@coltingleave6934]

Do you think this will fix it

[@albertoechanique4110]

Hi, I´m needing a video to rebuild the Dualjet 210 for my 1980 Malibu v8 267, can you help me with this ? Thank you

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Alberto Echanique...............You're welcome, and, thanks for watching..............Well, I don't have any rebuild videos, for a Rochester Dualjet 210 (2-Barrel) Carburetor, but, here's some information, that should help you out, some-what.............I'll start with..."Preventing Damage"...to quite a few Carburetors, that have these..."2-Hidden"...Screws...!!!..............On, both, the Rochester Dualjet, and, the Rochester Quadrajet, there are usually..."2-Hidden"...Screws, quite far down, from the Top of the Carburetor, that "can't be seen", unless, the Choke Plate, is Fully Open/Vertical...!!!.........."Make Sure", that, these "2-Hidden" Screws are "Removed"..."Before"...trying to take the Carburetor Apart...!!!...b-cuz, some people, "Did Not", take these "2-Hidden" Screws "out", and then, what they usually did, was to, use a lot of Force, probably with something like a screw-driver, to try and "Pry" the Carburetor Apart, and Bent/Warped it so bad, that, the Carb became "Junk"...!!!............When looking for a Video, for Rebuilding your Rochester Dualjet 210 (two barrel) carb, you might not find very many...and if so...have a look at some Rochester "Quadrajet" (4-Barrel) Carburetor Videos, b-cuz, a Rochester "DualJet", is pretty much, the same as, the "Front Half" (as in, front, 2-Barrels), of a Rochester "Quadrajet" (4-Barrel carb), just, kinda ignore, the Secondary/rear Larger 2-Barrels, and any additional linkages and such, that seem to be "Extra", as compared to your Dualjet 210 (2-Barrel) Rochester carburetor.............The "Rebuild Kit", that you'll need (and get), will usually have, some very good, (printed on paper) "instructions" in it, and will usually take you, step by step, along the way.............It's always a good idea, to buy, and install a New "Float", to avoid anything like, using too much gasoline/bad gas mileage (also, the Float, "is not" usually found in a carburetor rebuild kit)............Also, consider installing, a New..."Choke Pull-Off" (looks, kinda like, a little space-ship...lol), that controls the Choke, on the carb, b-cuz, there's usually a rubber-like diaphragm inside of it, that usually deteriorates, with heat and age (sometimes, the Choke Pull-Off, can be reused, on a Rochester Dualjet 210, if it tests out ok, as in, no leaks, and, that it operates smoothly as well).............So, study-up, on your Rochester Dualjet 210 (2-Barrel) Carburetor, and learn, all that you can about it............If you need any further help at all, just let me know............Good luck, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@albertoechanique4110]

I appreciate your response and appreciate the directions you give me. Clear and very detailed explanation.

[@DACJ87]

74 k10 350 here u just saved me $400!!!

[@9thgatedim273]

My 85 3.8 Buick regal is burning so much gas I have turned it it's killing me in fuel

[@guitarylife3062]

rocky why would my 78 quadrajet bog out throughout the powerband?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Guitary Life Greetings Guitary Life....Thanks for watching............................Now then, about Your 1978 Rochester Quadrajet 4 Barrel Carburetor, and Its, as You were sayin'...Bog out, throughout the Powerband...................................First off, here are "2 Things" that You should do, if You haven't done so already, that is..........................Make Sure, that Your..."Air Filter"...and Your..."Fuel Filter, or Filters"...as the case may be, are, well, shall we say, in..."As New"..."Condition"...as in..."Not"..."Causing a Restriction"...due to, being "Plugged-Up"...or..."Partially Plugged-Up"...concerning, both the..."Air Flow/Supply" (air filter)...and the..."Fuel Flow/Supply" (fuel filter or filters)...as those, particular..."Items"...are, shall we say..."Required"...in order for Our, good ole Friend, the Rochester Carburetor, to have the Ability, to give Us, both..."Good Performance"...and..."Good Fuel Economy" (yeah right, but that's only gonna happen, if the gas pedal doesn't get mashed to the floor-board...!!!...lol)...............................Start with those "2-Items", and see if that makes a "Difference" at all..............................Does Your engine...."Start alright" (both, Hot or Cold)...???.....................Does Your Engine "Run Alright", if You were to "Drive Your Vehicle", like Grandma or Grandpa, meaning..."Just take it nice-n-easy"...???..............................Please "Describe", the best You can, in..."Detail"...the..."Exact, Running/Performance Problems"...that Your Engine is having, and at what Vehicle "Speeds", as well as, how "Much", of the "Gas Pedal", You are "Using", at the time, that Your Engine, "Doesn't-Go-So-Good"...the reason being, the More that I know, about Your Engine's Problems, the More, that I'll be able to help You out, my Friend.................................So, if You care to, just let me know, all that Your'e able to, about Your Engines "Running/Performance Problems", as there is, a very, Very, "Long List, of Things", that can cause an Engine, to..."Miss-Behave"...like Your Engine, seems to be Doin', like You were sayin'...............................Good Luck............Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@guitarylife3062]

so its not even running good when i drive it like grandpa. its been idling rough the past few days cold and warmed up. and the only time it does anything is when i floor it but i wouldn't do that to my new engine. it just sputters like crazy as you say. and that's when i barely push it and even when i push it half way.it could be the fuel filters i will check them and see if thats a problem:) thank you. any more advice will be appreciated!

[@guitarylife3062]

im going to watch your vids again!

[@guitarylife3062]

Guitary Life i replaced my fuel filter and that wasnt the problem what now?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Guitary Life Greetings Guitary Life....There is the possibility, that Your "Fuel Pump", is starting to "Malfunction"...???...as in, Not Being Able, to Pump Enough Gasoline, into Your Carburetor's "Float Bowl", to keep it Running Properly, and, if that be the case, Your Carburetor would probably be Running, Way Too "Lean", as in, Not Enough Gasoline (mist/spray), in Your "Air/Fuel Ratio", that Your Engine needs, to Run Properly...................................Also, when was the last time, a..."Tune-Up"...was done on Your Engine...???...as in...New Spark Plugs (if needed?), and having Their "Gaps" (between the 2 Electrodes) "Set" to Specification...Distributor Cap & Rotor "Condition"...???...Spark Plug "Wires/Leads", might be questionable as well perhaps...???....................................Just try to Remember, that, the..."Chain is Only as Strong as the Weakest Link"...as in..."If Any", of the many, Parts and Pieces, that make-up, both, Your Engine's..."Fuel System"...and..."Ignition System"...become too "Worn, or Worn-out", and/or, in "Need of Adjusting/Setting", as per the Factory/Manufacturers "Specifications", then, Your Engine, probably Won't be too Happy at all, just sayin'..........................Perhaps, try and get a hold of, a "Factory" (or After-Market) "Service Manual", for Your "Exact" Vehicle, as, by doing so, You'll be able to read Lots & Lots, about, just, "What-it-takes", to keep Your Vehicle "Running like a Champ", and, will also, make for an Engine, that won't be..."Guzzlin' So Much Gasoline"...when..."It"...Really..."Does-Not-Need-To"...unless, You are Putting the "Pedal to the Metal" (aka, Flooring the Gas Pedal), that is..............Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@kriswolk1474]

Hey man great vids, I'm havin trouble finding the correct kit fir my carb.i can't find anywhere. Maybe point me in right direction ? The. # on carb is ,17086047. 1046. Closes one I found is 17086247.. So the 2 and 0 are different. 2 bein fedral and 0 is not right,am I correct? Should be 0 or 5. Please help thanks in advance

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Kris Wolk............Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too...........There's a good possibility, that, You'll be able to find a rebuild kit, for your exact carburetor, at..."Carbs Unlimited" (their website, might be called, carburetion.com), or, maybe try "Rockauto" as well...........You can also do an internet search, by using your vehicle's...Year...Make...Model...Engine size...etc....and see what that turns up for Ya..........Usually, a rebuild kit, will cover, more than one particular carb's number...........So then, try a few different parts places, because sometimes, that's what it might take, to find the correct carb rebuild kit............Also, once you find the correct "kit", then, it's a good idea, to install a new "float", and new "fuel filter/s" too............If you're still having trouble, finding your "kit", then, just let me know, what your vehicle is, as, that's, usually a good place to get started............Good luck, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@briancraighton3822]

Hey @rockysroadshow have a 1981 jeep cj5 2.5l 4cylinder 4speed manual sr4 with a varajet ii Rochester carb that's giving me trouble burning to rich of fuel to pass ca smog. The test numbers are at idle the co% 0.83% perfect when add 2500rpms it jumps to co% 9.86% supposed to be 2.0% .... I have changed the air filter, radiator flush, fuel filter, oil change, carb cleaner on carb and jets , new muffler, new thermostat etc... after those it fell to 4.36% co at 2500rpms but it's still burning to rich I'm stuck please any ideas would be great

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Brian Craighton..........Thanks for watching..........Ah yes, a good ole AMC (American Motors) Jeep, it is, that appears to be, in need of some help..........Well, there are about a "zillion" things, well, maybe not quite, that can be the cause of, producing excessive exhaust emissions, while being "smog" (emissions) tested, at the smog testing establishment..........It's not just the "fuel" system's components (including the carburetor), that's responsible, for those so-called, "excessive" exhaust emissions, as in, the entire "ignition" system, has to be, as good as new, as well as, having the initial (base) ignition timing, set to factory specifications, and the spark plugs, should be as good as new, while also having the spark plug's "electrodes"..."gapped" (that be, the air space, between those two electrodes), to the vehicle manufacturer's "specification" (have a look, under the hood, in the CJ-5's "engine compartment"), for, what is usually called, a...VECI (that be, a Vehicle Emissions Control Information), label or sticker, and, if you find one, then, there should be some really helpful information, printed on it, such as, spark plug "gap" size, as well as, ignition timing information as well...........I had a look-see, at, what parts & pieces, that your 1981 CJ-5 might be equipped with, such as, an HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor (system), oxygen sensor/s, and a catalytic converter, just to name a few............Even a very small exhaust "air leak", that occurs "before" an oxygen sensor, can actually "fool", the oxygen sensor, making it report to the vehicle's on-board computer (well, if it has one, that is), that, the engine is (Falsely), running, a "too lean", of an, air/fuel ratio, or mixture, if you will, then, the fuel system, will usually be adding even more fuel (gasoline), which it "does-not" need, and, usually to the point, of being "too rich" (and, usually shows up as...a High reading, of HC/Hydro carbon/s) on the test results............The carburetor, might have, a Float, made out of "nitrophyl" (kind looks-like black plastic, some-what), and, in the past, I had one, that, absorbed gasoline, and, it started to sink lower in the float bowl, which caused, a way "too rich", of an air fuel ratio/mixture, and, there sure was, some, eye-watering "smoke", coming out of the tail-pipe, because, it really was that bad (yours, might only be, sinking a little bit...maybe...???)...........All vacuum related hoses & pipes, have to be in good shape (no cracks/leaks, etc.), and be connected, to the correct places as well...........Have you replaced the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve, or maybe, your engine, might be equipped with, the "calibrated orifice" (hole) size type...???...as, that is, a kind-of, "calibrated" (engineered) vacuum "leak", if you will, which can cause problems, if malfunctioning............Spark plug "wires", have to be in, as New condition, and, it's a good idea, to keep them away from each other, as well as, away from, anything made out of metal, such as the valve/rocker cover, to help avoid, having any potential, ignition system related "misfires" (of, one or more spark plugs)...........The "catalytic converter", has to be in, almost, as good as new shape as well, because, it will usually "burn-up" (figure of speech, that was), most of what-ever the engine's exhaust, pushes through "it"...........Some years ago, my vehicle's "cat" (catalytic converter) was "worn-out", causing the vehicle, to "fail" the smog test, so, on went a brand new "cat", and..."hole-ee-gwalk-ah-moe-lee"...I received some rather impressive, smog testing establishment "readings", on my "test Paper results", after being "re-tested"...........Damn...all 3 readings...HC/Hydro carbon/s...CO/Carbon Monoxide...and the...NOX/Oxides of Nitrogen...were, now get this...1/2 (that be, one half, or 50%), of all of the other similar vehicle's..."Average Readings"...!!!............Then, some years later, on a similar vehicle, I tried the exact same, shall we call it, a "trick" perhaps...???...and...only one of the 3 exhaust pollutants, was a bit too high, and I didn't get the "pass", that I was hoping for (big sigh...lol)............Just goes to show, just how much, engine exhaust pollution, that a "New" (or almost New), "cat", can "burn-up"............If I recall correctly, the "Catalytic Converters", that have to go through, the CA/California USA, smog/emissions testing establishment/s, have to be, was it, C.A.R.B. "certified"...???...as in, those particular CA/California USA "catalytic converters", have to have, some kind of marking or stamping on it, that indicates, that it is, indeed...C.A.R.B. "certified", or, a big "Fail", it will probably be (your CJ-5, might not, have to have, a C.A.R.B. certified "cat"...???), so, make sure that you "Check" first...!!!...before installing a New "Catalytic Converter", well, if you ever do, that is..........It would probably help me, to help you out, quite a bit, if you can tell me, all of, the 3 smog category readings, as in...HC/Hydro Carbon...CO/Carbon Monoxide...and the...NOX/Oxides of Nitrogen...that are usually printed on the smog test paper "results"...thanks............What it all boils down to, is, all it might take, to be the cause of excessive exhaust "emissions", in, 1, 2, or all 3 smog categories, can be as little as, one component (part) malfunctioning, or, one of the adjustments, be it, fuel or ignition related, as well as, a few things that are exhaust system related as well, as an example (kinda like, assembling a puzzle, some-what)...........Gotta love, those..."AMC"..."Factory/Original"..."2-Piece"..."Rear Axle Shafts" (any questions, on that topic at all...???...lol)...........So then, if you care to, let me know about, "all" of the "smog readings", as, that in itself, will help quite a bit, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@rebirthedservant]

Will it work on a mono jet? 68 Chevrolet c10 250 i6

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Tyler Reathford....Thanks for watching this video...and...for Your comment/question as well....I had a look-see, at some Pictures of a Rochester "Monojet" Carburetor, and, although, it seems to have an "Accelerator Pump" (kinda looks like a "Mini" Toilet Plunger...lol), much like, that of a Rochester "Dualjet...or...Rochester "Quadrajet" carburetor, I "Did Not" See, the Accelerator Pump "Shaft" Sticking out of the "Top" of the "Monojet" Carburetor, like it does, on either the Dualjet or the Quadrajet Carburetor/s...!!! I'm under the impression, that, the "Accelerator Pump Plunger", on a "Monojet" Carburetor, is, shall we say..."Hidden"...Inside the "Body" of the "Monojet" Carburetor itself. Unless there is a "Hole" of some kind, that is Located "Above" the Accelerator Pump Cylinder/Plunger, then, I kinda doubt, that there would be a way, to have the Drops of Motor Oil, making its way into the Accelerator Pump's Cylinder, and onto the Accelerator Pump's Plunger "Seal/Cup". Even "If" Motor Oil (the Conventional kind, "Not" the Synthetic kind!) was able to make its way Onto the Accelerator Pump's Plunger "Seal/Cup", it's, shall we say..."A Hit or Miss", kind-of Situation, meaning that, there is absolutely "No" Guarantee, that it would work at all...!!! If that "Seal/Cup" had Chunks/Pieces missing from it, then, as I see it, No Amount of Motor Oil will be of any help at all. My, so called "Trick", will "Maybe" work, if the "Cup/Seal" is of the much "Older Type" of Material, that looks, kinda like Black Rubber... ...and... ...as for the "Seal/Cups", that are on the Plungers, that are found in the current "Rebuild Kits", might be, of the much "Newer" Material, that is supposed to be "Resistant", to the "Ethanol" (aka, alcohol), that is found in Today's Gasoline... ...and... ...I'm thinkin', that, the Newer "Ethanol Resistant"..."Seal/Cups", could very well be, "Resistant" to Motor Oil as well. Feel free, to check out the rest of the Videos, that I currently have on my KZbin Channel...RockysRoadshow...enjoy. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@MrMajstyk]

Oh...my car has the QJet..its a 68 Cadillac.

[@beetee801]

I tried this and had to replace the plunger

[@MrKrunkcity]

oh its the same duel jet carb you are displaying on your video!

[@miguelrosas9516]

Donde lo consigo

[@miguelrosas9516]

Carburador rochester dos gargantas para motor 3.8

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Miguel Rosas...…..If the carburetor has lots of miles on it, and/or, is very old, then, the carburetor should be rebuilt properly, or, buy an already rebuilt (remanufactured) carburetor, that is "exactly" like, the one that you have now...……Good luck, and...…till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@anthony1124ad]

What kind of oil can I use

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Anthony Montes............Thanks for watching...........I just used "regular" motor oil (not the synthetic type), and later on, I used, "regular", 80/90 weight, rear axle/gear oil..........The accelerator pump, seal/cup, has to be made out of the older material, and, it also can't be damaged too much, as in, chunks missing from its outside diameter, or, there's not much of a chance, at it workin' at all, well, as I see it, that is, and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@sameoledance]

I checked my carb and its a Rochester Monojet....

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Tweet L................So, it's a Rochester (one barrel, or single barrel) Monojet Carburetor You say.................You probably won't be able to see the Accelerator Pump's, shall we say, accelerator pump's "Stem", sticking out of the Top, of the Monojet Carb (carb is just short for, or slang name for Carburetor), and probably also, same applies to some of the much older Rochester 2-Barrel Carbs as well, cuz, from what I recall, the entire Accelerator Pump's Piston assembly (kinda resembles a toilet plunger somewhat...lol), is Hidden Inside of, these types/models of Rochester Carbs, well, if I get it right, that is.................So, I'm thinkin', that, my so called Trick, "can't" be used, on these ones at all...........I recall answering/replying, to a guy named...Tyler Reathford...about my (so called) Trick, working (or not), on His particular Rochester "Monojet" carb.............If You care to, just Scroll Down (or Up...???), and find His Name, and see what was posted....................Now, I'll head over to Your Other Comment (stay tuned now...lol)...

[@snakepliskin3941]

would wd40 work?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Snake Pliskin...........Thanks for watching...........Well, I have my doubts, as to whether, WD-40 (WD, as I recall, stands for Water Displacement, maybe...???), will work at all, but, another thing comes to mind (mine, that is), is that, the WD-40, as I see it, might possibly..."Dry-Out"...the accelerator pump's Seal/Cup, even further, than it (hypothetically) is, at the moment, quite possibly.............The reason, that I used Motor Oil, was that, I recall reading, way back when, was to, "Never" put Motor Oil, on those, Rubber-like, shock absorber Bushings/Eyelets (and to be using, a lubricant, that was suitable for Rubber), probably b-cuz, of the Swelling, that might take place, perhaps.............If you want to try my, so called Trick, just use Regular, old fashioned Motor Oil (Not the Synthetic stuff, b-cuz, I have my doubts, as to it, actually working), and, if the old-school motor oil works, so be it, otherwise, it's gonna be, Carburetor Rebuild time, or maybe, get a Re-Man (Re-Manufactured) Carb, or maybe, a New one perhaps, and.......till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@snakepliskin3941]

RockysRoadshow ..cool thanks

[@DawnNLN-ee2kh]

Yup

[@davidgonzalez7723]

porfabor mela pueden entruducir en espñol

[@kiddizzykiddizzy2785]

PB BLASTER IS THE BEST !

[@davidgonzalez7723]

José. inglés por Fabio

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...David Gonzalez..........Thanks for watching...........Sorry, I only speak English................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@DayRider76]

Holey cow? Popping the hood every couple days, pulling the air cleaner, dripping oil on your carb, replacing the air cleaner, closing the hood? It's like $10 worth of parts and 20 min. to fix it? That makes about as much sense as people who use a gallon of oil a month because they don't want to replace a $2 seal? Or the guy who puts cardboard in the radiator so he don't have to fix the thermostat and destroys everything else. I work with two different guys who unplug their batteries every day and use jump starters to get around? I guess people just like working harder than they have to?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...DayRider76...........Thanks for watching...........Lem-me-see-now.......Hmmm......So, you say that, a Rochester MV Quadrajet 4-barrel carburetor, can have a new accelerator piston assembly, installed by "You", in 20 Minutes, and the carb, re-installed, in running condition, back on top of the engine's intake manifold...???...well, I'd sure like to see that sometime...lol...oh, and, I assume that, You will be using the "old gasket" again...???...........What I did, by using, my so called "trick", was to delay/put off, the "Rebuild", of the Quadrajet, to a more suitable time for myself, but, as it turned out, lots, did I say Lots of extra time went by, before I actually got around to doing so..........I can't see myself, just installing "only", a new accelerator piston, when the whole damn Carburetor, had so many Years & Miles on "it" to begin with.............A gallon of motor oil per month, you say, well, at least the engine is getting "fresh oil" once in a while, as opposed to, someone, who might "not ever", change the motor oil, as well as, the oil filter too...lol...some folks out there, that might not have very much mechanical knowledge/ability, so yeah, using an "oil can", is quite easy to do alright...don't-cha-think...???..........Didn't some of those Semi-Trailer, Trucks, have slats, that opened and closed, in front of the radiator, at the front of the (big rig) truck...???...interesting that, I must say...........Unplug Batteries...???....and using Jump Starters to get around...???...Sounds exciting, and, How does that work anyways...???...lol..........Working Harder (then they have to)...???...Jee-whizz-ickers...and here I though, all of this time, that, the definition of..."Work"...was..."Force" times "Distance"...silly me, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@JoseCamacaro-x3y]

0:30

[@gussferretti9665]

Microsoft Sam

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Guss Fierro...........Thanks for watching..........Did, Microsoft Sam, have a Brother...???...You know, Simon (maybe windows version 3.1 maybe?), and, you could change/adjust, Simon's Voice, and hear the result, and, through the speaker is heard..."This is the Speed and Pitch of Simon's Voice" (or was it Pitch and Speed, I forget...lol), and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@rdillon517]

Get a holly and be done with it.

[@RockysRoadshow]

rdillon517 Greetings rdillon517....Thanks for watching, and for Your rather interesting comment/statement, as You were sayin' about...Get a Holley, and be done with it........................I'm assuming, that, You just might be talkin' about a Holley "Carburetor" perhaps, and, if so, here are a few things, to consider, and, how choosing one brand/type, over another brand/type, can affect the outcome, by doing so........................If we happen to be talkin', Full-Out Racing, then yes, a Holley Carburetor, or, one of the many, shall we say, "Clones", of the good ole Holley Carburetor, would probably do quite nicely, if the Racing Class/Tech Inspection, would Permit the Use of One...........................Now then, if we happen to be talkin' about a Vehicle that is Driven on the Street, and is required to go through a Smog/Emissions Test, and, oh, let's say for instance, that we go to the really..."Nit-Pick-ee"..."California/USA" (maybe New York/USA, as well perhaps?)..."Smog/Emissions Test"...then, that, Hypothetical/Imaginary..."Replacement Carburetor"...was, shall we say for instance, that, oh, and, let's go Way out in Left Field, shall we, and use the good ole..."Holley Double-Pumper Carburetor"...You know, the Model that has 2-Float Bowls, and, is really able to Feed, that really thirsty Engine, while under a rather Hard, and quickly, rising RPM's (Revolutions per Minute of the engine's crankshaft), while doing a WOT/Wide open Throttle Acceleration, and, Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, No doubt, what-so-ever, that, that good ole Holley Double Pumper, will really be Workin' great, with all of that, glue You to the back of the seat, and neck-snappin' acceleration, but, guess what...???...as soon as the California Smog/Emissions Guy/Gal, opens the Car's Hood, on that , oh, let's say, that Muscle Car, and, "it" happens to be, something, like a Late 1970's/Early 1980's, Car of Your Choice, that Originally, had a, what is usually/commonly known, as a "Smog Carburetor", that usually has, quite a few, Vacuum Hose Connections, Tubes/Pipes, and, also has, the Required/Mandated, Smog Gadgets, and, Air/Fuel Calibration/s, that will Satisfy the Tail Pipe "Sampling Probe" (or, what-ever they might be use-in), that..."Feeds"...that rather "Sensitive", and can't be Fooled, tail pipe..."Emissions/Exhaust Fumes"..."Computerized/Detection Unit"....that would probably, be able to give, the...Worlds, Top, "Police Tracking/Sniffin', Dog"...a..."Run-for-its-Money"...!!!...well, generically speakin' that is...lol.............................Now then, Considering, that California Smog/Emissions Test..."if"...the..."Replacement Carburetor"..."Does Not Have"...all of the "Required Gadgets and Vacuum Hose Fittings/tubes/pipes"...that, "Match/Equal", the "Original/Factory Installed, Smog Carburetor", that alone, my Friend, will most likely result in that particular "Car", Receiving a "FAIL", for the "Visual Inspection", part of the Smog/Emissions Test"...!!!.............................If the "Replacement Carburetor", actually "Does Pass the Visual Test", then, that "Replacement Carburetor"..."Has to have the Air/Fuel Ratio, and then some"..."Calibrated/Set-Up"...pretty darn Close-to, the "Original, Factory Installed Carburetor's, Air/Fuel Ratio/Calibration/Set-Up"...or, that...."Tail Pipe Sniffin'...Computerized, Smog Sniffin' Detection Unit"...will be..."Sounding the Alarm Bells"...as in, Way Too Much, Over the Maximum Allowable, of, One or More, of..."HC/Hydrocarbon"..."CO/Carbon-Monoxide"...and..."NOX/Nitrogen Oxides"...and the Test Report/Paper, will then have...a great Big..."FAIL"...Printed on It...!!!...(to lol, or not to lol, that is the question...???)...............................Lettuce, now, try this Scenario, shall we.....................Street Driven Vehicle (and legally insured as well!...lol), but this time, No Smog/Emission Test Required, what-so-ever...!!!......................Now then, consider the current "High Price of Gasoline", and, being able to have Great Performance, and Gas Mileage too...............No-Sir-ee-Bob, a Double Pumper, as I like to say, will be givin'...You..."Gallons per Mile"...Not..."Miles per Gallon"...lol...but, that's just the nature of the beast................................................For a Street Driven Vehicle, with a Stock, or quite Mild Engine, I, pretty much, like to see, something, like a..."4-Barrel Carburetor, that has Vacuum Secondaries"...on it...and, from a Fuel Mileage perspective, a "Spread Bore" Carburetor", works really well, seeing as how, the Primary Throttle Bores are Smaller then the Secondary Throttle Bores, but, "Square Bore" (aka, All 4 Throttle bores, are about the same, as each other), will do really well, if that particular Carburetor is "Sized/Calibrated, and, Set-Up Properly", just sayin'..............................The very First Consideration, from my Perspective, happens to be..."How?...What?...and...Why?"...the Manner, in which the Vehicle in question, will be..."Used and Operated In"...along with...Does the Vehicle in question, have to be..."Smog/Emissions Tested"...and if so, just..."How Strict"...is that particular, "Smog/Emissions Test" any-ways...???..................If...???...the Vehicle in question, has to be "Smog/Emissions Tested (and, probably has to be done, in order to be able, to buy the Car Insurance for "it"...!!!), then, as I've found out, quite some time ago, that, some of the..."After-Market Carburetor Manufacturers"...out there, Do Offer (for Sale), an..."Emissions Compliant"..."Carburetor"...in some cases, and hopefully, it happens to be, the "Correct One", for Your particular "Application"...???................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...sooner or later, that good ole Holley Carburetor, that You were mentioning, will be need-in, some Tender-Lovin' Care/Attention, once the Years and Mileage Pile Up on "it", just like it did, on this Video's..."Rochester Quadrajet, 4 Barrel, Vacuum Secondary"...Carburetor's...Accelerator Pump's, Piston/Seal/Cup did, as, this good ole Rochester, 4 barrel Carburetor, that You were Seein', in this KZbin Video of mine, had...lots & LOTs, of..."Miles and Years"...on "it"...and...my..."Oil Application Trick"...kept my 350 Chevy V-8, as happy as, a Hog Wollowin', in a, Yuck-ee...Muck-ee...Mud Filled, Mud Puddle...Yee-Haw"...!!!...lol...well, at least, until, I stopped pro-crast-in-ate-in', and went ahead, and gots me, a "Carburetor Rebuild Kit", for "it", that is...!!!...lol...oh, and, look Ma..."No More Oil Needed any-more"...!!!...lol...............................So, bottom line here is, well, for me anyways, is, to..."Plan Ahead"...and actually..."Think Through"..."All of What"...the..."Real Requirements"...happen to "Be"..."Before, just Blindly...Slappin' On" (aka, Installing)...just..."Anything Chrome or Shine-ee"...that would probably be, some..."Real-Nice-Eye-Candy"...but, might not work, worth a (use Your own Bad Word Here...!!!...lol)................Here's where I'm gonna add, a real good Sayin'...and...that Sayin' is..."The Chain is Only as Strong as the Weakest Link" (as in, it will Snap/Break at its Weakest Link), and, what I'm getting at here is...just about any "Engine"...that has..."Miss-Matched Components"...Installed on "it", for..."Its Intended Use"...will, more then likely..."Not be able to..."Perform Up to Its Full Potential"..."Waste Gasoline"...and, If..."Gas Mileage"...is to be Considered...make sure, that, You..."Do Your Home-Work".."On, that One Too"...or, You'll probably be..."Spendin' Your Kids Inheritance"...just to be able to..."Fill the Gas Tank"..on that..."Gas-Guzzlin'..."What-Sham-ah-Call-It"...??? (please, feel free, to use Your very Own, Personal Description, on that "One", will Ya...!!!...lol)...............................There happen to be, a few Parts, on some Holley Carburetors, that, probably won't work so well, with an extended amount of time, and mileage as well, on "them", and, are as follows......................Accelerator Pump Diaphragm/s...Accelerator Pump Check Valve, more so, with the "Umbrella/Elastomer, Type/Style, of Check Valve, and, possibly an issue, with the Ball-Bearing, type/style, of check (ball) valve's retainer, as well perhaps................................Power Valve/s-Diaphragm Deterioration, and, if it happens to be, an Older Holley Carburetor, without, engine Back-Fire Protection on board, then, on the older ones, if the Engine happened to Back-Fire real good, the Power Valve, or, Power Valves, as the case may be, might end up having, the Diaphragm/s Rupture, and the resulting, Overly-Rich, Air/Fuel Ratio, that will usually follow, once that back-fire takes place................................Then, if that Holley Carburetor, happens to have Vacuum Secondaries, it will usually have a rather Large Vacuum Diaphragm, inside its Housing, on the side of the Carb...and, not that it will leak, from being ruptured, but, rather, the Diaphragm, just might not stay in close calibration, once that Diaphragm, gets Old, and, might start to deteriorate some-what, perhaps?...............................Then, last, but not least, is this crazy "Ethanol Laced Gasoline", that, most People are putting into Their gas tanks these days..............................Sometimes, it raises H3ll, with some Metal Components, such as, in/on, some Carburetors for instance............................Then, the Carburetor's..."Air/Fuel Ratio/Calibration", usually gets all messed up, if that particular Carburetor..."Was Not...or..."Is Not"..."Calibrated/Jetted"...for the..."%-age/Percent-age"...of, the Actual Amount of Ethanol, that is part of, the Gasoline Blend, that's, be-in pumped into, that particular Vehicle's Gas Tank..............................From what I gather, some, if not most, Aftermarket, Carburetor Manufacturers, are Setting-Up, their Performance Carburetors, on a some-what "Richer, Air/Fuel Ratio", side of things (so to speak), and, as I see it, is so, the Engine, that gets "Fed", that some-what..."Richer Air/Fuel Ratio"...from these particular Carburetors, will be kept, shall we say..."Safe"...especially, while doing a very aggressive..."WOT/Wide Open Throttle Acceleration...Run, as opposed to, a..."Too Lean, Air/Fuel Ratio"...which is likely, to do, some..."Very Expensive, Damage/Destruction"...to an Engine, while doing that, very same, Aggressive, WOT/Wide Open Throttle Acceleration, with, like I was sayin', a..."Way Too Lean, Air/Fuel Ratio"...for the very High Load Demands, placed on that Engine...!!!..................................................I guess, that, One could say, this Carb, or that Carb, but, as I see it..."if"...???...that particular (what-ever-brand/manufacturer, that "it" just might be), will, more then likely, Not-Be, all that Great, "if"...the Carburetor "Itself", is Not...Calibrated & Set-Up...Properly, for Everything, and, some of those "Things", are, the Engine Build/Specifications...Fuel being used...the Ignition Timing, Advance Curve Specs...and hopefully, All of the Components, on, not only the Engine, but the Vehicle in Total, have to Work Together (aka, in Harmony), or, Money will be wasted....Performance (and maybe, Fuel Economy, if applicable?), will be Lower then Expected, and..."You just Lost the Race"...!!!...and...No Trophy...or...a Kiss from the Trophy Girl as well....!!! (hmmmmm......just wonderin'.......Do they still do that...Trophy Girl, smooch-ee...smooch-ee...what-sha-mah-call-it...old days..."Tradition"...at the Car Races at all...???)................So, there You have it (maybe, too much...huh...???...lol)......................Well...Till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@ronsiefert3999]

Thanks for the info , i will try tranny fluid as it makes seals swell !