Rock Climbing Tech Tip- Nuts in Opposition

Climbing nuts are usually omni-directional pieces, but when placed in “opposition” can create multi-directional protection points. This can be useful to add security to a marginal placement in running protection or as a component of an anchor system. This technique does increase the forces on the gear and rock due to the vector (angles) so high quality rock and proper carabiner loading is important. As always seek qualified instruction when learning climbing techniques.

[@owenslubo9243]

I love that clove hitch method! absolutely bomber and so simple! Thank you so much!

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

Glad you like the tip! Many more coming so please subscribe!

[@craigslaunwhite579]

My God this is great info. Exactly what I was looking for. So hard to find this specific anchor method. 🙏

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

Glad it was helpful!

[@EricForney-uz4iz]

Good old school stuff. Not rocket science just building on the basics. 👍👍 Helpful to have in your toolkit.

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

Glad this video is still getting some views! This technique was one of the first things I learned back when I thought I knew everything about anchors (late 1990s) that made me realize I will never stop learning about anchors!

[@steventhaw3765]

Great! Also please refer to Brent Peters two CLOVE HITCH FOR ANCHORS you tube videos!! Safest, Strongest, Fastest, and most Efficient configuration!!! Only one to pass the DMM weight fall test!

[@jbdavisnc]

If you tie those opposing nuts tight enough together to try and equalize them, do we then have to account for the low angle rules that we think about when building belay anchors? For example, if those pieces are 150 degrees apart, and you whip on it and put 3kN of force on it, then each of the two nuts would see 6kN of force. The closer you are to 180 degrees, that multiplied force approaches infinity, so you could break those cables if they're not rated for that kind of fall. I imagine that leaving the sling loose enough just to prevent the upwards pull and not bind the pieces together would be better in that case. Am I thinking right about this?

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

Great question! First, I'll say that this technique is not trying to "equalize" them in the classic sense, though I guess when they are really working in opposition they could be considered equalized. You are correct the angles still matter. In your example of 150 degrees & 3 kN force directly OUTWARD on the placement you will see the magnified force (I'm not digging up the exact math but I see your point). My thought on the matter is in quality rock with quality placements it's likely still within the gear breaking strength... if the configuration was approaching more than 150 degrees I might use a longer sling and use the 2nd method where you clip the lower piece to the sling, then tie a double girth-hitch on the upper piece with a little tension. In this configuration the lower piece is only holding enough force to keep the upper piece from lifting out of an otherwise great placement. If a high force fall occurs the upper piece is still holding close to 100% of the load. In any case I think you are thinking about it right but the direction from where the high force originates matters when thinking about the angle issue!

[@ScoutSniper3124]

Well, that's just nuts1

[@richardcarey169]

180 deg opposition each wire is made weaker

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

It is true that the angle here multiplies forces... but if the rock is solid this setup up can still below breaking strength and might be the only way to make the placements secure enough to matter.

[@TR-nw8hz]

Northeast?? You mean northeast Rocky Mountains right?

[@NorthEastAlpineStart]

Huh? I'm based in the northeastern US (New Hampshire)