Rod Building: Understanding color preserver, varnishing wraps, and final touch ups.

Rod Building: Understanding color preserver, varnishing wraps, and final
touch ups.

[@cananasi1561]

*I like the feel of the reel **enjoyable.fishing** recommend in my hand and the weight is just right for my rod. The drag settings took some time to set correctly but work well. Great looking reel!*

[@canadiangemstones7636]

A clear and concise explanation of some very finicky details, nicely done!

[@user-xh6qp6oj9n]

Rod/reel combo with fishing kit as an emergency setup kzbin.infoUgkxntWMOZsO1Zfv-pdn_XuffEtNkTYAYu4Z recommend but started to use this every day. The rod is thick and seems durable. I keep it neatly tucked into a regular backpack all the time with my fishing gear, and can grab it anytime, put it on my back and go anywhere. I just read in another review that the rod length below the reel is adjustable as well, so I will try that too for even more portability. Probably the best setup I've ever owned. I lost the cap for the eyelets, but no big deal since I still have the black cloth sheath that came for the pole and I use that. Very portable and high quality.

[@proofflyfishing7358]

Good question. Varnish will have a slight amber tint to it and 2 part epoxy will be clear. If you want very thin wraps, then varnish is the way to go. Generally 4-6 thinned coats of spar will seal the thread. There is no performance difference between the two finishes. Both work great.

[@RickMarshallMaps]

I am a newby. I just finished my first fly rod and my first spinning rod. Your videos have helped tremendously. I took your advice and used Spar Varnish to finish the wraps on my guides and ferrules. I probably put 8-10 coats on it over the course of 3-4 days. It doesn't seem to provide as smooth of a finish as the epoxy. Am I doing something wrong, or is this normal?

[@borgkye]

Excellent tutorial Matt,

[@RickMarshallMaps]

Thanks for the great video

[@pasqualemancini9986]

Mi indichi il sito dove comprare il preservativi del colore. Molte grazie

[@jaydeer6367]

in woodworking finishing, I typically do a light sanding between coats of varnish or polyurethane to achieve good bonding between coats. How do you feel about sanding between coats of the spar varnish on your various types of thread raps. Thank you for a great instructional video.

[@tulio300]

Clear description. . I'ill try. Tks

[@chesneyfung9341]

Can I please ask what is the difference between varnish and 2 part epoxy ? Is varnish as strong ? Usually I use 2 or 3 thin layers of 2 part epoxy and I just wonder if the varnish would finish better.

[@paulocruz8585]

The video is excellent, my congratulations! just a doubt, dilutes all coats or just the first. I refer to the varnish. thank you so much Amaro

[@proofflyfishing7358]

Its up to you. I like to apply thinned coats all of the time. Some builders will use full strength varnish to start off and then switch to thinned varnish for the last finish coat.

[@knight5188]

Question? I'm not doing my raps on the rod, I'm just painting the rod blank and was wondering if I could use a spray can clear coat on top my paint... I know that might not be the most professional way but just wondering? Great video btw

[@ozzybwild]

I guess fly fishing rod builders won't even answer to this (obviously I'm right xP ) so let me say this: There is no "spray can clear coat", there's tons of. What I mean is there are lots of different clear coats with different "stiff-nesses" or breaking points, which are critical in working with a fishing rod. What you want is a soft clear coat that is flexible. What you get from "random" clear coat like hobby store / car supply grade spray cans is a stiff, breaking clear coat that will just look bad on a fishing rod, because it will just dry and after your first cast(s) break, giving different marbling depending of the thickness applied. In rod building people use different kinds of epoxies (UV/ two-component) with added softeners, that are applied to the rod then, which itself then is placed on a "turner" that keeps the rod spinning from one to four days to avoid lacquer noses. You can buy a "disco ball turning motor" on amazon and build yourself such a "turner" which will cost you about 9cents european at a duration of three days drying time at 4Watts per motor. Wall of text, I know, but I'm in the process of buying up old fishing rods to refurbish myself and watched a lot of videos about rod making in the past days, so I felt like sharing.. ;)

[@renseihaodum7998]

Got a question, I am knew to rod building. Is varnish the same same as epoxy?

[@matthewdraft4575]

Hi, good question. They are actually different. Epoxy is a two part mix that hardens by a chemical reaction. Varnish uses a solvent. Both work great for sealing thread.

[@jeremyhixson1744]

nice descriptive video, Thx

[@tednorris120]

Jeremy Hixson th. How to do decals

[@marlicalistodasilvacalisto5765]

how do you call that milky product that you pass before the resin to keep the color

[@thankfullife7968]

Marli calisto da silva calisto. Colour preserver. CP

[@Longcaster9880]

Where and what brand of varnish can I buy?

[@proofflyfishing7358]

Hi, you will want to look for "spar" varnish. We sell it on the site at: www.proofflyfishing.com

[@peters6850]

Silly newbie question. Do you varnish the entire rod or just the threads?

[@proofflyfishing7358]

Hi, not silly at all. The short answer is the thread, but many builders will either dip or pour a thinned coat of spar varnish over the whole blank once the thread is sealed.

[@samkelly4293]

Varnish discolours over time, epoxy does not.

[@jimmycroucher1575]

V

[@andrewmorke]

Color preserver seems like a waste of time.