Rodinal

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I did an experiment to see how different dilutions affect your film.
Comment below, what’s your favorite developer and dilution?

[@marksummers5504]

My favorite is still stand developing with Rodinal. Let it soak for an hour or 90 minutes or whenever this movie I’m watching is over.

[@TheNegative]

Yeah! I love stand development. I love the unique result

[@marksummers5504]

@@TheNegative Yeah it does have a very unique feel or look. A little grain with B&Ws is actually nice. Film images are not really meant to be looked at from 8-10” away. I think that’s definitely where film photography shines. Once you’ve actually developed and printed your own photos, it’s a major step in your growth. I think that’s why so many photography courses include it still.

[@TheNegative]

Yeah nothing like darkroom printing. That’s what got me hooked. Once you get passed the part where you get mad at your prints for not coming out right, it’s really fun 🤣

[@DavesFilmLab]

Just watched again, love this video. Think I'll stick with 1:50 for the majority of my work. Was stoked to see your video pop up as the first thing on google when I searched Rodinal 1+25 vs 1+50

[@plateoshrimp9685]

Never realized that the dilution controlled contrast. I always thought the lower dilution it was just to control apparent graininess. Thanks for the video!

[@m2djibril]

Bro, thank you so much for this! I just started used Rodinal as my go to developer and I am trying to figure out what works best so I can achieve what I’m looking for. Your video has helped tremendously as I am pushing film a lot and sometimes even using a red filter. Again, massive thanks; I’ll keep on experimenting and testing.

[@TheNegative]

Glad it helped! Thanks for checking out the video :)

[@hartgetzen7867]

This was incredibly helpful. Wish I had known this 50 years ago!

[@ThePhotoDept]

incredible comparison. great job.

[@TheNegative]

Whoa! The Photo Dept! Big fan of your videos! Thanks a lot man!

[@ThePhotoDept]

appreciate you!@@TheNegative

[@mrgregpappas]

An answer to a question I didn’t know I had. Great video.

[@TheNegative]

Thanks for watching! Glad it helped!

[@jbaxter007]

Thanks for getting back so soon, yeah, sounds like a plan.

[@oscarparadela]

I use Rodinal for years, both dilutions, is the best developer ever made ❤

[@kstrohmeier]

Great video. Even when I shot and developed film regularly I had to remind myself to think "backwards" when evaluating a negative.

[@DavesFilmLab]

Just had this question of 1:25 vs 1:50 direct comparison even though I’m not planning on using rodinal and was stoked to see your video. Much love my friend

[@Dan-jg7zl]

You don't need to change dilution to alter contrast. In high contrast scenes, you simply reduce your Dev time to reduce your highlights. You can reduce your blacks by rating the film at a lower speed and developing at box speed. It's all about sticking to one film and developer and mastering your materials under various lighting condition. Just stick with the 1:25 dilution.

[@TheNegative]

Thanks for the feedback! I just wanted to see what the effect was without making any other changes.

[@billhackley3540]

@@TheNegative watched this for exactly for what the title stated, go figure thanks for posting

[@sandraioana6359]

@@TheNegativeits diffrent results its not the same. If you leave the film longer 1/50 the grain will be smoother.Aspecially it helps with 3200 iso or so. So if you would develop hthat in 25 dilution it will be more harsh.. the grain.

[@AlpcanAras]

Really good video, I mostly use 1+50 but this comparison will make me double think!

[@jbaxter007]

Makes complete sense, dilemma i will have now is what dilution to use when i`ve got both high and low contrast scenes on one roll of film. Oh joy!

[@TheNegative]

I almost always do 1:50 unless the scene is really flat. So you should be fine with that since your high contrast scenes won’t get blown out and if there’s lower contrast scenes you can bump the contrast up in post.

[@josephasghar]

Rodinal is so easy to use and store. My go to. Thanks for this video.

[@TheNegative]

Yes! Can’t go wrong with rodinal! You’re welcome

[@terrywbreedlove]

Great comparison thank you

[@Sebastian-lw1ei]

Thank you so much for sharing! Great info

[@TheNegative]

Thank you for watching!

[@photomaster1]

Thank you for taking the time for this...

[@TheNegative]

You’re welcome! Glad you enjoyed it :)

[@Tsudkyk]

I usually use HC-110 then started to do stand development using rodinal because the results are great for enlarging. I might save my self some time and do a 1:25 dilution for a little bit to see how I like those results.

[@kirkleadbetter1093]

Nice video. Well done.

[@TheNegative]

@@kirkleadbetter1093 thanks for watching!!

[@RobertBergan]

Thanks for the video, did not know this. Just discovered your channel.

[@TheNegative]

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching! Trying to get this channel growing :)

[@unpocodeluz_atill]

My favourite is D76 1+3. High acutance like Rodinal, but less grainy.

[@ackamack101]

This was very interesting. Thank you! I almost wonder if I would choose the 1+100 dilution if I had a roll of film that included shots with both high and low contrast. I also tend to use FP4 with Rodinal (often at 1+50) as I like the look of it a lot.

[@richardsimms251]

Great video

[@ImperiousImages]

Great info and examples

[@TheNegative]

Thanks for watching!

[@lorenz9314]

It would have been interesting to add stand development to the comparison at concentrations of 100+1 or even higher. I wonder how these scenes would have benefited from that.

[@Desert_Night_Owl]

Interesting to see more speed in the shadows in the 1+25 dilution. Btw, this is why it's nearly impossible to stand develop Delta 3200 in rodinal. Unless you happen to have some well-lit scenes at night, all your images will end up flat.

[@cinnamon--girl]

Thanks so much. I use Rodinal, but other developer as well.

[@TheNegative]

You’re welcome! Yeah it’s nice to have at least a couple developers on hand! Thanks for watching

[@charlesmason58]

In your first example pulling back the development time on the first dilution would give the same results in the highlights and a lot shorter processing time.

[@FlashbackArrest]

I always wondered this myself. I guess the next step would be testing to what extent this can be compensated with filters while printing

[@TheNegative]

Yeah there’s definitely still room to play with the contrast! Interesting to see what each dilution does though

[@39exposures]

I just started my journey of home development and was wondering if dilution makes any difference. Thanks for this video!

[@downtofun]

Thanks for this!

[@philippef.4590]

Thank you

[@TheNegative]

Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@erwinc.9117]

To be honest, I just choose the dilution based on time, if it's reasonable at 1:50 I'll do that but if it's more than 13 minutes I go with 1:25. I don't think the difference is big enough for what I shoot.

[@TheNegative]

Yeah sometimes the times for 1:50 are just way too long and I’ll do 1:25 instead. Def won’t ruin an image.

[@kenklontz1945]

Good luck with your Chanel

[@TheNegative]

Thank you Ken!

[@antonroland]

Great video, thanks! I have always used Ilford ID-11 or Perceptol (always stock solution) but having recently “discovered” Adox I might try Rodinal…

[@TheNegative]

I’ve never tried any Ilford developers but I’ve heard that microphen is good! Rodinal is a great film for 120 and 4x5. Not so great on 35mm unless it’s a 50, 100, or 200 iso film. Thanks for watching!

[@antonroland]

@@TheNegative I am told Microphen is good for pushing (and pulling?). ID-11 is a great multi-purpose general film developer and very easy to work with. Perceptol is the fine-grain one when maximum sharpness is required. That is the general idea but having listened to some of the folks on here I am only beginning to discover how frightfully little I really know… There may be more Ilford film developers but ID-11 and Perceptol are the two I have worked with.

[@rjcason98]

Rodinal 25 is what I’ve been using.

[@motodiaries8204]

Adams recommends adding a half stop or so of exposure to high contrast negatives when you reduce development or use diluted developers. Strengthens the shadows a bit to compensate for loss of development there.

[@Flying4Film]

Fantastic video! Thank you for making this!

[@TheNegative]

You’re very welcome! Glad you found it useful!

[@richardgormley6085]

Fantastic

[@TheNegative]

Thanks for watching!

[@erichstocker8358]

I use XTOL 1:1 almost always unless I do stand development when I use HC110

[@TheXiphiasgladius]

Thanks

[@TheNegative]

Thanks for watching!

[@Goat.Herder]

Very handy thanks

[@TheNegative]

You’re welcome! Thanks for checking out the video

[@GigiDAmico]

nice test! thanks the effect can be reached with shortening or enlarging the developing time, i'm always wondering how to decide because we don;t know the pictures before developing so there will be some shoot taking advance of one dilution/time and other going bad...

[@stephanpaier9887]

Hi! Thats interesting, thanx... One question though: Did you agitate every minute with both solutions or did you change the way you agitate? Thank, you, Stephan

[@TheNegative]

Same agitation for both! Agitate for the first minute, then 10 Seconds every minute after that.

[@stephanpaier9887]

@@TheNegative Hi and thank you very much for the quick an satisfactory reply.... It really helps a lot for future projects. Best regards, Stephan

[@ashleycarr2899]

Liked the video. It can be a little confusing calling the 1+50 a ‘high contrast’ solution when it is actually the low contrast solution for high contrast scenes. As we all know, the more you dilute a solution the less contrasty the results, and the compensation effect increases.

[@TheNegative]

Yeah, for somebody that didn’t know better, they might read “high” and think that dilution provides a high contrast result! I got a little confused myself when I first started developing.

[@MiracleRed]

Very helpful. Is this why someone might use a standing development at low dilution?

[@TheNegative]

Yeah for a high contrast scene, the stand development would suppress the highlight areas and lift the shadows as well as enhance the sharpness.

[@flavioserci6046]

I've just bought the FP4 and I developed in D76 stock. I don't like it because the grain si so fine and creamy. I'll try with the Rodinal.

[@TheNegative]

It’ll look great in rodinal! Rodinal gives it that bite but the grain is fine enough to where it won’t be grain city. also if you wanna use d76 with it I’d try at least 1:2 to give it some bite. It’ll come out better.

[@flavioserci6046]

@@TheNegative Thank you very much!!!

[@danienelphoto]

Wonder how relevant this is for Ilfotech LC29.

[@MichaelCarter]

My Rodinal was home made from Tylenol and drain cleaner.

[@TheNegative]

That’s amazing! 😳

[@kinopilot]

Admire you people! All this for shooting leaves and pots.

[@TheNegative]

The video was more about demonstrating results of dilution than the subject matter. Thanks for watching!

[@nickfanzo]

What do the darkroom prints look like? thats what matters.

[@abohosamabohosam4178]

Hello, I am a very newbie and do not have enough information?! What does it mean for a developer to be Rodinal 100 + 1, 50 + 1, and 1 + 25? For example, how many ml of water will be and how many ml of liquid solution. Please reply by mentioning the water-filled scale and the developer so that I can fully understand and gather correct information, thank you):

[@TheNegative]

Hello! First you need to figure how much solution you need to cover your film. Let’s say you’re developing 1 roll of film that takes 300 mL to cover it in the tank, if you’re doing 1 +25 dilution, that’s 26 parts. You take 300 and divide that by 26 to get your amount of developer which equals 11.5. You get 11.5 mL of liquid developer and fill the rest with water to make 300 mL of solution. I made a video explaining how to do this if that helps kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGSce52jmJuer7c let me know if you have any more questions

[@abohosamabohosam4178]

@@TheNegative Yes, it became very clear and clear, really, you helped me move forward and have knowledge that might help me on this subject, I have a question, is developer Rodinal developing a 16mm cinematic film with a length of 100 feet using a Russian-made lomo container so far I don't know how much capacity you have, can I apply the previous rule to that That is, 25+1, so I will have a suitable contrast for my next film. If I succeed in developing, does this developer succeed with 16,8 or 35 mm films as well, or is it different? I am waiting for a response from you if you would be so kind. I am really grateful to you and thank you very much(:

[@TheNegative]

Yes it will technically work! You may be able to find development times for that film you have with rodinal. although, most cinema films use D96 developer. It’ll definitely develop though. Hopefully that helps!

[@TheNegative]

@filmboy24 might be able to give you some tips and development times! I believe he uses the same setup that you mentioned

[@abohosamabohosam4178]

@@TheNegative I have a question regarding when you start mixing any new solution, after you mix it with water completely and finally in a gallon and store it for the time of need, for example, should you dilute it again, before starting each new film development process? Or are you satisfied with the first mixture that you have stored in the gallon and take from it what you want with every new development you need, and so on! And if so, does it apply to all companies, or does it differ from one company to another, thank you.

[@TheXiphiasgladius]

Anybody tried 1+12.5

[@TheNegative]

I’ve thought about doing wacky dilutions but haven’t done it yet. You’d have to try different times and see what you like best.

[@raybeaumont7670]

I used Rodinal years ago but now use Ilford Ilfotec HC diluted 1:60 for most films. Works for me.