Model Scenery Ground Cover Using Ground Goop

In this video I demonstrate how to make model scenery ground cover using ground goop. Ground goop is a concoction that makes great scenery ground cover because it is flexible and colored all the way through. This is a technique you will want to try when building your own model scenery for dioramas or model railroad layouts.
🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽
✅ RTNT Amazon Page: www.amazon.com...
✅ Amazon Pick of the Week: Celluclay - amzn.to/2JGjxRT
Vermiculite - amzn.to/2t9V1BF
(NOTE: The above are Amazon affiliate links: I make a small commission from any purchased made through these links.)
🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽
✅Take advantage of the rewards for your support of Ron's Trains N Things through Patreon:
/ ronstrainnthings
Thanks to my Patreon friends.
🔼 Heroes:
Bill Gatewood
🔼 Partners:
Todd Walton--Wally's Weathering / 2toady
Chuck Hedler--Chazco
/ @chazco
Roy Hardwick--CONTAINERMAN68
/ @containerman68
Randy Daigle
🔼 Patrons:
Wendell Camp
Tom Bensberg
✅ You can also invest in this channel through PayPal:
www.paypal.me/...
Your support is greatly appreciated. Thank You.
🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽
✅Check our my regular column in The Modeler's Journal--a free eMag. www.themodeler...
🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽
🔸 Contact me via email: [e-mail]
🔸 Follow me on Twitter: @RonsTrainsNTngs
/ ronstrainsntngs
🔸 Join the Ron's Railfans community on Facebook: / ronsrailfans
🔸 Connect on Instagram: / rtrains
🔸 For more about my layout, the Texas Colorado & Western Railway, check out / tcwry
If you like what you see give it a "like" 👍, subscribe 🔔, comment 💬 below, and share it on your social media and model railroad forums.
🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽
Credits:
🤘Theme Song: "Extremes" by the Lemming Shepherds
Exzel Music Publishing (freemusicpublicdomain.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
creativecommons...
👂"What a Beautiful Sunset - extended" by Angelwing
Exzel Music Publishing (freemusicpublicdomain.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
creativecommons...
👂Sound E ffects: LoudTVStatice.wav from Freesound.org by 18hiltc / @rc_swift1772
Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 3.0
creativecommons...
TVStaticSound by KLEBER KGF from Freesound.org
Public Domain
Equipment:
🔷 Canon Rebel T6i DSLR--amzn.to/2EEGYeO
🔷 Canon Rebel T3 DSLR--amzn.to/2Cmm8xt
🔷 MX-2000 tripod
🔷 Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam--amzn.to/2CaBzfd
🔷 Excelvan 2kW Lighting Kit--amzn.to/2EcHZrH
🔷 Blue Snowball Ice Microphone--amzn.to/2Cb1raG
🔷 HitFilm 4 Express--hitfilm.com/ex...
🔷 Audacity--www.audacitytea...
🔷 Clamp Lamps
🔷 The Sun--en.wikipedia.o...

[@richjones6987]

I tried this on a Diorama last year, I like it worked well for what I was trying to do. Did not let it sit overnight beforer I applied it. Will do it when I start to landscape my new model railroad

[@hastingsbnsfnscalemodeler8594]

Thanks for this and all the helpful videos. You and many others on KZbin make it possible for newbies like me to believe we should jump in and give it a try. Looking forward to more great videos.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

You absolutely shohld jump in. Thanks for watching.

[@hastingsbnsfnscalemodeler8594]

Ron's Trains N Things: thanks. I’ve jumped in and sharing some videos hoping others can enjoy and learn a little from my struggles.

[@ReidsTrainStuff]

Have heard of ground goop, but never seen it made or applied, another great and helpful video Ron 👍...Reid.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks.

[@TheNWPerry]

Great video Ron. I'd suggest a light spray of wet water before applying the goop as Plaster does tend to suck up moisture. It may help make it a bit easier to apply. Looks good though! Neil W

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

This plaster had been sealed with paint already so I think the water just would have made it harder to stick.

[@whitefordpipeshandmadebymi7238]

Hey Ron 😊 thanks for the video and sharing your experiment! Take care! 😊✌️🇨🇦

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks.

[@billvassar7473]

Ron, you also add ground leaves to the mix, great around and under trees.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Interesting. I've never heard of anyone doing that.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Oh, do you mean on top? I thought you meant in the Ground Goop.

[@JoRoderick]

Very informative. It's an interesting combination of ingredients to create a realistic texture.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, Lou who invented the original formula was quite inventive.

[@LegionOfWeirdos]

We used Sculptamold in high school for art class. I completely forgot about that stuff!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

It is great stuff for scenery material.

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

Thanks, Ron.....

[@MikeThomasRailRoadOverhaul]

Thanks for sharing its new to me as well thanks for bringing it to my attention

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.

[@wilzdart]

great video ... the links for what you need is a add plus. Looking forward on the project.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks Will.

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

Very nice stuff for sure! Keep up the good work!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks.

[@jolliemark6294]

Good video, I've always said to put color in you plaster for the very reason you mentioned as you plant trees or chip the scenery, it makes good sense to me, the goop is a good idea as you can work with it longer and it looks to be a little lighter material, I wonder if it's any stronger too, as the paper mache would give it strength, your paint did look like the added gray made it match your other paint, thanks for the formula for goop as I've never had it before and sharing....Jack 😀

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

It is definitely not stronger. This needs a solid base of some sort under it, but it does make a nice top coat the the ground.

[@phillipwyman8963]

Great explanation of ground goop Ron. Did you know that you can wet the back of a rock casting with water, and stick it in to the ground goop when it's still wet and it lock's it in real good. It may be because it has the glue in it.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Intereating. Thanks for that tip.

[@markjolyn94]

Ah goop! So much fun to make and spread around. It is truly great stuff. You do great videos please kutgw

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks.

[@southern207hobbies]

A different glue to use is mod podge matte medium

[@25mfd]

you could but it's too expensive for this application... 8 oz of mod podge 6 bucks... 8oz of jot brand glue from dollar tree... well you get the point

[@southern207hobbies]

@@25mfd I have modpoge on hand hence my choice

[@michaelwright185]

Ron, would Mod Podge Matte work in place of the Elmers? (It dries without a "sheen" or a crust.)

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I don't think Mod Podge would work in ground goop as it is too thin, but there are enough elements in ground goop that sheen is not a problem.

[@roady1710]

Ron I got to ask if you're retired great if not what do you do for a living?!

[@honestgbfan5324]

Great videos Ron. I noticed the ground goop was applied to what seemed to be, at least on my tablet, already coated and colored? Is there an area of uncovered/uncolored foamboard or plaster cloth you might apply it to as you seemed to like the ground goop maybe for a future video? I am building a diorama soon myself with a version of goop that I'm thinking will work for my own purposes? Mr. Sassi and yourself, along with others, gave me an idea for my own recipe for the type of scenic area I wish to model. I'm not as experienced as you are at it but maybe I will make a video of that as well? Thanks for the idea's and giving me something to think about prior to starting my own. Good timing sir! 🤔

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, this area was painted plaster. I did not originally intend to use the ground goop here but changed my mind. I do have some areas that will have ground goop applied to foam scenery, but those areas are not ready for it yet. I will make a video when I do that, but I don't know yet when that will be.

[@honestgbfan5324]

that is one of the great thing about this hobby ...... the constant changes we make to improve things as we go. or perhaps should I say as we "grow" our railroads? Ideas like those you gave me with this video show that nothing is set in stone, plaster maybe, but not stone :) I do not know of anyone who's layout was ever "finished" and became stagnant. thank you for your response and I didn't realize I had not subscribed. will do so now :)

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

@@RonsTrainsNThings was there a video of this made?

[@PKWModelwerx]

Ron, hate to be a Debbie Downer, but, while most current vermiculite does not contain asbestos, some does. Therefore, breathing the dust should be avoided. Especially if you have older stock. When you were stirring that dry container and dust was rising, I was concerned. Mixing promptly with paint should make it reasonably safe. Not a significant risk but easily avoided so why not be careful. Thanks for another well-produced video.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

This is new Vermiculite, had no dust. The dust was from the Celluclay--recycled paper dust.

[@logginlocos9023]

Great video Ron! Wonder if anyone has tried adding shredded newspaper (I have a micro-cut shredder that literarly pulverizes paper) with plaster into this formula instead of the cellulose product? Or, the use of cellulose-based insulation product?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hey, JD. I have heard people talk about that as a potential idea, but don't know anyone who has actually tried it yet.

[@AndyCrawford_NorfolkWestern]

I've used cellulose instead of the commercial "paper mache". Works fine and actually prefer it, not least because it's quite cheap for a lifetime supply. I now have a bag of blow-in insulation or cellulose and a 25lb sack of vermiculite, with a 5 gallon jug of paint one could fill a basement. Also, if your working with a large batch (no reason not too since it will last a decade) it'd prolly be a good idea to pick up a mixer that chucks into a drill.

[@CM-ARM]

Hi Ron, is this cheaper than using Scalpt a Mode?? I do like the results. Thanks again, Chris

[@petealvarezjr4278]

Is this ground goop an alternative to sculptamold? Thanks for your videos!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Well, sort of. Sculptamold is great for filling in around rocks and forming other scenic coutours. Ground goop is intended as a ground cover layer that is easy to push trees and other scenery elements into and is ground color. After working with both for a while, honestly I prefer Sculptamold mixed with a little tan craft paint to color it or even just Celluclay mixet with paint and some diluted white glue.

[@AndyCrawford_NorfolkWestern]

Good vid brother... So, after all that what do you think of using your hands? That's not my preference. I really like the artists knife/spatula, to Ralph's chagrin. If applying it works for you, go for it, but if not, please make sure to rub that in to Ralph too! :) I really love the ground goop, for a lot of reasons I posted in various replies below, but primarily because it's so much more enjoyable to work with. But it really solved my weight problem, with my layout made entirely and just of foam weight would be a real concern. But with ground goop, it's light and flexible, so it won't damage so easy as I take modules down to work on them or when I eventually move the modules into a larger space. As additional incentives, it's cheaper, lasts for a decade or longer if well sealed, is fast working since I apply dirt immediately most the time. Also a very important consideration for me was the layout be easy to change. My argument against a traditional wood frame structure with roadbed on risers plus plaster on whatever substructure, is that it's much harder to change, destructive and messy, so many people, me included, resist changes unless really committed to doing so. With ground foam over extruded foam, if I wanna change something, take out my wallpaper knife, do some damage, throw some pre-mixed ground goop on it, apply dirt, after it dries I can apply additional vegetation, in a matter of 24 hours I can be back where I was if pretty committed to it. While I'm good with there being many good ways to model, and plaster is fine if you like it, ground goop is so very well suited to modular, portable, or TOMA situations. I would really encourage everyone to try it, your out a touch of whatever house paint you have on hand and maybe a 20 spot for a small bag of paper mache or cellulose and vermiculite. Also, I don't add the glue, as you mentioned in the video that I don't. In the absence of the glue it retains more of the latex's flexibility, which to me is a real positive, and you'll see why as you start poking holes and planting trees. Without the glue it's super easy to plant trees. For the larger foreground trees that have pins in the trunk, just drive them home, and for the more fragile materials like SuperTrees, an awl or even a skewer makes quick work of it. Regardless, it was a good video and I very much enjoyed participating in your experiment...

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hey, Andy. I hate to tell you, but applying with hands in open areas worked great--really fast. The artist spatula is, however, the only way to go up close to rock castings, backdrop, and other items you don't want to ground goop all over. I like the material. Once dry, the texture is a little rougj for N scale, but once covered with scenery material I don't foresee this veing an issue.

[@AndyCrawford_NorfolkWestern]

Ron's Trains N Things Sure thing... I see what’s happening here, Ralphs got to you first!!! LMBO. It is fast for large areas.

[@eremyjay]

HI Ron, is this product some what similar to Gypsolite from Scenery express ? Gypsolite uses Perlite instead.

[@williamarseneau1575]

Would sculptamold work instead of celluclay? ??

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hi William. Thanks for your question. I had actually addressed that in this video, but it was getting too long so I cut it out. The short answer is no. Sculptamold has a plaster in it that would set up fairly quickly. The beauty of Graham group is that it can keep for a long time. The plaster sitting up in the skull to mold would ruin any that you had left sitting for more than a few hours. You might be able to use it if you use the whole batch within a couple hours, but I think that would destroy the beauty of this particular product.

[@effenbeezeetravel4474]

You followed the correct recipe ! the fakers did not !

[@billvassar7473]

Lou Sassi talks about it in his book on scenery

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

This is some great stuff! I'm going to have to try it!

[@LordRusty5]

Good video, Ron! A tip ... you can pre-color your dry plaster with dry tempra color before adding it to the water. This eliminates any white plaster coming up from drilling ... as it is pre-colored! This will be good when drilling through the Ground Goop, just in case you drill into the plaster base.

[@nedmerrill5705]

I just use straight paper mache instead of cell-u-clay. Seems to work well.

[@bentstrider]

So, I take it that one could use this ground goop on a flat piece of plywood to make natural, terrain variations? The ground looks flat, but then there's small rises here and there.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, certainly.

[@daltonmaertz2236]

Pretty cool stuff have never seen such detail on model trains. Ron I'm thinking about building a model dirtbike track for my son to play with his toy bikes. Using the foam and a compound like this is the structure relatively durable? Thanks

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I would definitely say it is pretty durable. This shell dries to a hard but somewhat flexible surface, so on a good base like extruded foam it does very well.

[@jerrysmith1929]

Your channel growth has been impressive and well deserved. Thanks for sharing your experiment. Experimentation helps advance our modeling. I'm not sure how a 1/8th inch covering will solve the problem of white powder appearing when drilling holes. Wouldn't adding pigment to the plaster solve the problem with less effort? My own experience adding vermiculite to plaster for added texture just wasn't worth the effort and money.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks, Jerry.

[@lionellance]

Nice job Ron.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work... Lance

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks.

[@daveycrockett9408]

After watching many of your very good videos, I must finally comment on your trees, nice shape color and size, But the trunks, all the way up to the top look like bright bare wood, cheap unpainted tooth picks or BBQ scewers, way too light in color!. Sorry just saying my friend,... But they just don't look right. It's like the first thing i noticed and caught my eye in your videos, like a bad give away.. Like the old wendy's commerical where's the Beef?. Where's the Bark?.. LOL!. Redwood stain?. paint black with lite grey dry brush?. Browns, even ink wash?.....I wish we had these great informative videos 60 years ago when i started model railroading..Beautiful layout Ron, keep up the great work!..

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

They shine on video as they catch the lights, but look different in person. They are actually dark brown dry-brushed with light gray.

[@AndyCrawford_NorfolkWestern]

No doubt, layout room lighting just kills the effects we see in person. The presentation in the latest FineScale show on YTMB has Gerry from Mt Alberts Scale Lumber and now with FastTracks did a great job of breaking down the science behind lighting and how impossible to match sunlight it is in our layout rooms. But it's very evident with trees for some reason, I see that in the photos I've taken of my layout too.

[@sithlordofoz]

Reading through the comments it would appear this is an "as well as" to plaster rather than an "instead of". I'd read about it years ago but this is the first time I've seen the application. Not sure I'd be worried about it to be honest as it would appear scatter and what not over coloured plaster does the job just as well. However, Ron, since you've done it, are you going to continue to do it, and, probably more telling, are you going to replace the areas you didn't do it on because it looks so much better?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I will not be re-doing areas. I think it will be helpful in plaster areas going forward because my plaster is not colored. For me, the best application will be on areas of foam scenery that have nothing on them.

[@AndyCrawford_NorfolkWestern]

I see it as an instead of... And it depends, if you like plaster and it works for you, keep at it. I HATE working with plaster, just hate it. So I LOVE the ground goop. Ground goop is also much lighter than plaster, stays somewhat flexible, is much easier to plant vegetation in, plus has texture naturally. It's also a much faster process, I apply ground goop, and since it's just wet paint, apply dirt, leaves, etc., immediately. So I can go from pink foam to dirt covered in one step. It's also very very well suited to modules or portable layouts as it's not as vulnerable to damage as plaster. It's also easier to work the way I work, I can make a batch and use out of it for months until I use it up. So if I'm working and need to modify the landforms I can just apply a bit and seal it back up, with plaster I would have to mix a batch, apply it, wait to dry, paint, dry, glue and dirt, dry... It's cheaper, lighter, easier to plant into, easier to cut and modify, easier to work with, has less weight, and on and on. I'm a real fan of the stuff. After I tried it the first time I was sold.

[@sithlordofoz]

Andy Crawford thanks for that. Very helpful

[@billvassar7473]

I'm sorry, you can add it on top of the goop.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, absolutely.

[@vincenthuying98]

Cool tutorial Ron, definitely gonna try out the ground goop method. Congrats on the milestone, and I remember your cat’s photobomb, that was a funny one. On celluclay, people can also very easily make celluclay themselves from old paper or toilet paper.

[@jimsrenaski7118]

I don't know how your pine sol works. I used the dark amber Lysol concentrate. I used a five gallon bucket with the 2 piece screw on lid and have had this in storage for 5 years. It still works perfectly. The key is to make sure you have an air tight container.

[@billvassar7473]

on page 28 of Lou Sassi's book basic scenery for model railroaders he tells how to make group.

[@mikerich68]

Great video. Looking forward to the continuation of this ground goop use