Stop Cleaning Your Track on Your Model Railroad

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I have reviewed some great tools for model railroading. Check them out in this set of videos: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXjYmGl3qNWrj80

[@tommartino6220]

Participated in an annual Toy Train Expo last weekend. Roughly 11 hours of continually running 3 N trains over 2 days. Done this many years and normally at the end of each day headlights are flickering and intermittent running. Had to use the bright boy each day to keep them running. Tried this technique this year and the entire weekend everything ran flawlessly! I totally advocate this method.

[@michaelmappin4425]

I had a small N gauge set as a 9 year old boy. When my dad passed away 2 years ago, I ended up with it after not seeing it for 45 years. It didn't work, so I ended up getting rid of it. I now realize it was probably just dirty track. I decided to buy an HO set last Christmas. I was so happy to see it running around the tree. Set it up this year, and the locomotive is running jerky around with starts and stops everywhere. Now I found this video. I just ordered the no ox id.

[@genejordan9983]

I know a guy that has the best tracks ever. He dealt with this problem back in the 70s. He took an old gold ring and rubbed the rails. Goes exactly what you are talking about. I thought he was crazy but now it makes sense. You can’t see gold on the rail but it does put a microscopic layer. Gold never oxidizes. Gold is the highest electrical conductor. I’m going to order that no-ox. Great video Ron

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Gold ring--interesting. Never thought of that technique before. thanks for sharing that.

[@JF-lt5zc]

Sure, it starts easily enough. Next thing you know, you're on a long journey into dark lands, pursued by a weird little gray man thing and eventually end up hating your best friend.

[@bsalightning69]

Been following the whole track thing for some time, and personally, I am an old Lionel guy, so track cleaning happens regularly. Have tried all kinds of stuff like everyone, but a while back started using automotive surface prep. (the stuff comes in a gallon can and used for cleaning bare metal before painting). I have had good results with it, and will stay nice for a long time span. I have my layout suspended from the ceiling above my work shop and use a old school track cleaning car, fill it up and run it. A good tip from a friend!

[@StephenCarlBaldwin]

I concur with those who suggest that this be nominated as "Tip of the Year." I did what Ron suggested and slow-speed performance improved immediately on my N layout. Thank you, Ron!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I'm glad to hear you had success with it. I believe most who have had problems are applying it way too thick.

[@davidbegg]

This WORKS. I tried it on a section of my track and the difference is amazing. Locos now go so smoothly and also slowly if required. I am extremely happy, how long it will last is yet to be determined, but even if i have do the procedure once a month, so what, the improvement in running is so great. Thank you so much.

[@colintaylor8499]

Hi Ron I am from uk with a n gauge layout in a very dusty/dirty garage. I have (had) to clean tracks between every running session, albeit sometimes only a quick “rub” on dirty/stopping areas if after only a few days. Used your cleaning regime 3 weeks ago (after waiting weeks for products to arrive from Amazon USA) -- ran trains again tonight, NO issues at all, perfect running - absolutely unbelievable! Thank you so much Ron Can’t believe some of the negative comments you get to this video - please totally ignore them - again thank you so much for your shared advice. Colin

[@MojaveModelRailroad]

Seriously, this has to be the biggest tip of the year for model railroading maintenance. Thank you so much for sharing Ron.

[@rvnmedic1968]

I had a couple of track sections on my new layout whereby the engine stopped and stuttered. I checked the voltage before and after the section and it right on 15v. Looking at the track, it appeared cleaned. So I saw your vid, Ron, and ordered both products from Amazon. After receiving them, I got to work applying and rubbing them as directed. AND, the engine is now happy with those two sections! Amazing that the track looked good but failed until really cleaning them. Thanks for a very helpful vid. Cheers, Bob

[@flyinaroundstl]

I admit, I was skeptical at first. I've always been a Brightboy user on my track and never really tried any other chemical/solvent cleaners. But after getting increasingly frustrated at how poorly even my brand new locomotives were running, I decided to give this technique a try. In just an hour of cleaning my mainline track, the locomotives that I'd relegated to a sidetrack for "permanent storage" because they ran so poorly are now running more smoothly than any locomotive I've ever run anywhere. It's truly been a game-changer for me and my layout! Thank you Ron!!!!!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I am glad to hear this. Thanks for the testimonial. 👍🏼👍🏼

[@mariov1743]

I've been trying to warn people for years about all this. I prefer the Wahl Oil.

[@stevehughes55]

I am a Contractor, so I have lots of mineral spirits around for use on Jobs and have used it with Train Sets for years. I also have been buying for work these Foam sanding blocks. I use the 400 grit Blocks for tracks without any negative problems for about 10 years. I rub the 400 grit block around the track then follow up with the Vac, and then wipe down with a damp cloth of mineral spirits about twice a year. I have never heard of the stuff at the end of the video, but may get some and try it. Thanks for the video.

[@jamesbach2021]

I've been using IPA for years and it seemed to work okay. After watching this video I carefully cleaned the track with mineral spirits and then applied the grease. What a difference. Especially in the yard. My 060 and the little diesel switchers don't hesitate at all. I can also see a big difference in performance in the main lines. I initially had a traction issue on the grades. A little too much grease. So I ran locomotives pulling John Allen style track cleaning cars on the layout for a couple hours. I would stop them every ten minutes or so and sand the grease off the Masonite pad . That resolved the problem. This is a must see video for anyone with a layout. Great work Ron! Thank you!

[@jamesbach2021]

Just a follow up. Eight months in my layout performs past my wildest dreams. I had to clean up a frog this afternoon and that is the first "cleaning" I had to perform since my original post. Follow the instructions in the video and your layout will work amazing too!!!

[@patrickd9551]

Personally I found that I personally use a cleaning product like mineral spirits and isopropyl alcohol is that it still leaves a residue that will attract dust and other contaminates. But recently I switched to a cleaning product containing 7.5% 2-Butoxyethanol for my home. And i tried it out on my old 12v lego rails and it did wonders to remove years of grime introduced by 10 year old me. I then finished with contact spray/cleaner. It runs like it never has before. You can even mix your own :) Just buy a litre of pure 2-Butoxyethanol (about 12 euro) and mix with demineralized water to keep it as pure as possible and other contaminates are introduced. This 2-BE ethanol is also used in professional window cleaning products to leave no streaks behind and yes it most certainly does. it's job very well in that regard. So if it's good for my windows, then it's good enough for my lego track. I found that acetone and turpentine based products all leave an oily residu that will attract contaminates and leave streaks, not to mention that mineral spirits are a generic name for a variety of products, most of which are being replaced by "greener alternatives". I'll try to find some of that no-ox stuff and see how that works. Looks good to me tho.

[@LocoMick1]

Great video, thanks Ron. One question, you say don't use if you are running steamers with traction tires, but what about diesels with traction tires? Will it make them deteriorate?

[@garyrunnalls7714]

I was ready to set fire to my n scale railroad. You saved me from blowing up my set. This technique worked incredibly!!!!!!!! Thank you so much.

[@trainssker]

Tried this on CIRC layout in Des Moines during Iowa State Fair. Lots of trains running. Cleaned Wheels before fair and ran A couple of Brass Cleaning Cars with Rollers and Mineral Spirits ahead of the first day and then applied NO OX. Instead of running wet rollers at beginning of each day we ran dry rollers and picked up an amount that you would expect when running multiple trains from 7 AM to around 8:30 PM for 10 straight days. I thought we might consider using a roller with NO OX on it to coat the track evenly instead of doing it by hand but I didn’t get a chance to try it. I do like the system and would like to try that method of application. Using a dry roller to clean seems to work quite well and cuts back on the possibility of paint damage to loco shells from the Mineral Spirits. Enjoyed your presentation! 👍

[@tomboese367]

Thank you for this VERY informative video. I plan to order some No-Ox today. My problems are the same as everyone else has experienced. Whether it's an old engine, a new engine ... same ol problems. I questioned my power packs, engines and track. Just two days ago I finally decided it was a track problem, and then MIRACULOUSLY THIS VIDEO CAME UP TODAY. Thank the Lord, and thank you Ron!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Good luck and let us know what you think.

[@tomboese367]

@@RonsTrainsNThings My No-Ox came, and I got busy right away cleaning my track. I would give this report. 1. Use SPAIRINGLY. If you think you have enough, youi probably have TOO MUCH. I spent a long time cleaning the "excess off of my track, and off of my train wheels as it picked up a lot of excess from the rails. Once cleaned up, however, I have been very pleased with the results. 2. Results: ALL of my trains, even the very old ones, run very well, even at very slow speeds. Furthermore, my only engine with sounds is producing better sounds!!! I will be eager to see how long they will run without getting dirty and loosing continuity. This has been a major battle for me and a major frustration. Therefore, I thank you so very much for this GREAT cleaning video. God bless you well.

[@scottthurman3625]

Great information, thanks. I have to admit I time warped back to every time my father was explaining a process to me about a repair or maintenance procedure involved to properly execute a task and how I just wanted him to cut to the chase. I love you Dad, thanks.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

🤣🤣🤣

[@michaelbroshears3053]

Many thanks. I’ve known about this product for a few years but never purchased it. When I first saw this video I ordered a tub. I finally started deep cleaning and lightly applying this No-Ox. Wow Wow Wow!!!! After not running the main for a year It’s running great. Basically you alone spurred me into doing something. I highly recommend it. I built this as a switching layout with many many feet of track but figured I would never have successive op sessions. I’m feeling much better now. With a renewed motivation I hope to get the whole layout running smoothly. Didn’t mean to ramble on but thanks again!

[@johnkelley4404]

Just stumbled on your channel and I've built woodland scenics n scale ridge with Broadway limited Paragon 3 sound and subwoofer and always shorted out. With this new method I can go all around the track at 2 steps!! Thank you so much for the no ox I'd method I quit running my trains but now I'm getting new locos for the fun!! Thank you again!!!!

[@miketate3788]

I have found the product on Amazon and have ordered a small amount. This video is amazing! I have learned so much! Thank you. Am going to try this as soon as the product arrives. Thanks, Ron. Mike from near Toronto.

[@vincentpe305]

Something I learnd with slot cars. Get a large pencil eraser and rub it against the track and vacuum the dust. Done. No chemicals or abrasive.

[@Wrathchildss]

I’ve had a container of No-Ox for over a year, haven’t used it because the bright boy and a microfibre cloth worked well, have had two Intermountain SD40-2 locos one with sound one without. Both ran like ass over freshly cleaned track, cutting in and out, sputtering around the layout. I finally rubbed some no-ox only on the track today and it made a huge difference, it didn’t fix 100% of the issue but it cuts/sputters once in 5 feet instead of 15-20 times! Im going to try all the steps next, hope it fixes it. 🎉

[@DamonGaskin]

Very in depth. Not a simple topic at all. Fishplate' and Chadwick discussions prompted me to try the Inox. I didn't give it much thought, other than "mnnnn, I'll try it, but I don't expect much". But once I put that Inox on a dust monkey(woodland scenics), and ran it around twice, the twins have never run better, smoother, slower, and more reliably. These conductivity products are awesome! Never would have thought it, but true! I, now, only apply the lubricant maybe every couple of months... I don't have to do anything else. No wheel cleaning, nothing..It's been really a game changer on mine.. Chadwick model railway is heavy on good things also..

[@tedfisk1211]

Ron, thank you for this video. I purchased the no ox stuff from Amazon. I have started cleaning the track on my layout and applying the no ox stuff. The operation of my locomotives has greatly improved. This is a great suggestion and I am very happy that I saw this video. Thank you again.

[@americanindependantmedia9229]

Finally..Someone that blinded me with science. Leave opinions out, and stick to the facts. LOVE IT! This kind of info, and explanations, are the reason I watch your channel. Awesome, well done!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks so much, Rob. I do try to get to the bottom of things as much as I can.

[@Osprey850]

I did exactly what Ron suggested (cleaned the track with mineral spirits and applied No-Ox that I bought from Amazon) and our trains went from barely being able to get moving and go around turns to now running as fast as I've ever seen them run. For the record, we have a Marx #999 set from the 1940s. They're not tiny trains and tracks like in this video, but foot-long cars on 2in-wide, 3-rail tracks. They're very similar to early Lionel train sets. I mention it just so that others know that Ron's guide works on train sets as large and as old as that, too. Thanks so much, Ron! The trains that my mom played with as a kid in the 1950s and I played with as a kid in the 1980s now run like we both remember them, despite being 75 years old and never having been cleaned in all that time!

[@subron14]

Great tip, retired and Just getting into rail roading doing HO scale and living in Maryland I will be using this grease on my new Peco track and my Chessie system loco ES44AC. Setting up DCC and thanks to guy’s like you I’m slowly learning to do things the right way.

[@michaelpfau1150]

After watching you video, I used mineral spirits and cleaned every bit of my track. By far the best cleaner I have ever used. I have some small switchers that cut out on the layout. After using mineral spirits, they run like a champ. I have received the No Ox in the mail and now in the process of applying that. All my locos (22) of them and over 140 rolling stock have been cleaned as well. Really looking forward to the No Ox. Thanks for the tip . Good video.

[@dougmoeller8726]

All right Ron....you went and did it NOW!! I went out and got the stuff you recommended to clean the rails and the damn stuff works!!! Not only do the engines glide over the rails like a hot knife through butter but my caboose vans that have lights in them dont flicker!!!! Thank you for passing this on to us!!!

[@davidrarig5922]

I have used the No Ox Id on my Kato Unitrack rail joiners when assembling track. In the past I have encountered enough oxidation to cause a large voltage drop at the joiner, and so far this product seems to eliminate the problem. Two years and counting on the track in my staging yard with no voltage problems.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Interesting use of the product. Thanks for telling us. 👍🏼

[@cabincreek1692]

I did what Ron suggested just after this video was made. I haven't had to clean my track since. Thank you Ron.

[@peter_borcherds]

I’ve got a note on my phone from 2018, from the Kansas City Convention saying “Jon Percy, No-Ox for rails” 😀 He swears by it, and I made that note to make sure I tried it out...haven’t actually got any yet, but seems it’s a tried & tested product - thanks for reminding me about it!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Lol, I heard about it from John Acheson who learned it from Jon Percy.

[@peter_borcherds]

@@RonsTrainsNThings ha ha! Not surprised! 😀 Jon has some great ideas and is well-respected in KC!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

@@peter_borcherds Yes, Jon is a good friend. I appreciate his input very much.

[@peter_borcherds]

@@RonsTrainsNThings ah! Love his layout and Jon is a great and very hospitable guy! Looking forward to seeing his layout again sometime on the next couple of years, and hopefully even get out to see yours!

[@marsfromrexford]

I had a bottle of 'No-Ox" when I was a kid 35 - 40 years ago, a yellowish fluid that the owner of the shop recommended, interesting for sure. In the auto industry the term micro arcing is also used to describe the surface degradation of secondary ignition components such as ignition cables. We were encouraged to apply dielectric grease on the connections between the coil towers, wires, plugs ect to minimize the accumulation of the black stuff and pitting that micro arcing causes that that in turn adds resistance. This all makes perfect sense.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes indeed, same principle on a smaller scale--like Z scale. LOL.

[@jamieblakley]

This video really hit the spot on providing the information I needed. I'm cleaning an old Marx track and I almost used steel wool on it. Thankfully, I found your video first and will be using the Mineral Spirits and the No Ox- A special. Really great stuff. Appreciate ya.

[@michaeltabone2676]

Im really glad I just found this video. Im about 2-3 months away from breaking ground on my benchwork. Hopefully now I will be able to get the best performance out of my new track

[@tkram999]

Thanks Ron, took quite a while to get hold of the NO-OX-ID from the US (I am in Australia) but all my loco's are much happier now. Only time I regretted having so many loco's!! Has taken me the best part of today to get them all across it. Well worth the effort though. Cheers!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I'm glad tonhear you got it and it is working well for you. 👍🏼

[@williamluther7251]

i very new to this hobby, 2 months now i guess, but didn't realize how fast tracks get dirty, at slower speed i noticed the headlights flickering (im not buss wired) voltage drop i thought, checked for voltage drops none found, cleaned made a huge difference for a day or two, use the no ox id a special, admittingly i did use too much first time and lost traction on incline, my fault , cleaned track again and used very very little , no more issues for 2 weeks have not touched track since, Thank You Sir.

[@samuelplew5630]

I’ve used Wahl’s hair clipper oil for decades. I learned about it from a model railroader article back in the 1970s. Conveniently my Father, Grandfather and Uncle were barbers! I have a stash. 😂 It too promotes conductivity and stops oxidation. Barbers will tell you all about how it keeps their clippers in top shape. Will it collect dust? Not any more than the other lube I suppose. Works great on gears too.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Whal clipper oil was a stand by for many modelers for years...still is for many.👍🏼

[@tundramanq]

Made me look.. I have a 2 ounce bottle of DE-OX-ID liquid electronic contact cleaner, from GC Electronics, that I bought in the 80s. Works great for contacts. Put it on with a toothpick and lightly scrub off the arc marks. Not listed as having lube but doesn't seem to accelerate corrosion either. Since "a little daub will do it!" the bottle is still 3/4 full. For sliding contacts your NO-OX-ID especial sounds better.

[@countryside8122]

Years ago I used to use a simple tack cloth. It would remove dust and dampness quite well. I also used the tack cloth on the HO race track.

[@ChicagoCrossingRR]

Thanks for sharing Ron. Even my worst-performing locos (all FVM oddly enough) run like a dream now.

[@AM-jd9pw]

Tried the No-Ox using your technique a couple days ago, big difference so far

[@michaelbroshears3053]

Thanks Ron. I heard about this product years ago. Yes people I know have talked about every possible type of cleaning or product. I tried a few but the key has been no long lasting results. This scientific method makes more sense. Beyond this method I believe that keeping the environment in the layout room cleaner is a goal to have. I put up a painted OSB panel ceiling to keep dust/dirt from falling from raw floor above. Putting the dryer upstairs as well. Painting concrete floor. Changing furnace filters often. It has all helped in this respect. Again I thank you for this video and hope people follow the process. Keep up the good work.

[@kraigsickels3918]

Hey Ron !!! Great advice on track maintenance, I have been cleaning track with a clean cloth for years and I was not sure 🤔 which cleaner to use . I did watch Gregg from Fish Plate films and I totally agree on both of you 😁 . I do have Mineral Spirts and I will use it !!! And always a thumbs up 👍!!!

[@joerivers1768]

Great Video! Just ordered my No-OX-ID from Amazon. Thank you. I'll comment again after I get my layout super cleaned and reconditioned.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I look forward to hearing about your experience.

[@kennyplay5982]

@@joerivers1768 do you have review?

[@tracksidethomas]

I did this a few weeks ago. Wow! Thank you so much! I have a picky Bachmann GP 40 that always gave me trouble. I haven't had to putz with that one yet! Thanks again.

[@rafaelallenblock]

Decades ago one of the model mags recommended ATF and that's my go-to for keeping track clean and efficient.

[@challengerrail1036]

Thats what ive been ising as well, is clean ATF, even though, i do have a separate track, im trying used filtered ATF to see if theres a huge difference

[@merrittbeymer5102]

Great info Ron, I'm starting to get out my N scale stuff and build a layout with my Grandson. This is a perfect time to use this method on every piece of track before it is installed. Especially since it is reused track. N-scale

[@Trainsarecooll]

I tried this today any my locos are running really great. Interested to see how long this will last before I have to do it again. Very grateful for this video!

[@RAHauck-ic6wh]

Ron, I watch many videos on how to improve/make better your RR layout. This is a first for me as I never subscribe to any channel as I prefer to bookmark and come back later. Without a doubt, of the many very fine videos that I have watched in the past, I find this bit of information one of the best and most helpful for maintaining one's layout. You did a great job explaining what happens to the track, and how to get the most out of running our trains. I will pass this information on to those who need or could use it. You have a new subscriber.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks for the kind words and welcome to the channel.

[@theflashturtle29]

You may as well subscribe to any channels you find to be useful and enjoyable as it helps the creators get more viewers.

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

Yup, I had already been doing what Fishplate suggested, only starting with a clean track first then following his procedure. Even with a dusty garage layout this has been successful. 2-26 has a protectorate in it Ron. Fishplate recommends it I also have polished my track with a chrome washer beforehand.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

You should switch to CRC's Contact Cleaner & Protectant. It is less polar and dpes a better job reducing micor-arcing and oxidation. 2-26 is more polar.

[@tombryant1104]

Outstanding!!! THANK YOU!!! I keep my wife's N scale trains running(incl repair) & use a meter to monitor loco current. Before NO-OX-ID current would dance around 10 to 20ma, with treatment maybe a 5ma variance. We have a '90s KATO that truck contacts rest directly on zinc chassis, requires a regular cleaning. Next time I'm going to try treatment with NO-OX-ID.

[@Meld61]

Great report ,I run locos dating back to the 50,s as well as Triang Hornby magnadesion locos from the 60s and 70s plus more modern locos with traction tyres and oh my any solvent just wrecks traction tyres , very fine balance lol , blessings from England ❤

[@elliotttipper661]

I just wanted to state that after watching this video. I cleaned all my track and applied the no ox id and it was pretty good but not as good as what I had on the track before. I use a graphite stick and its easy peasy. It's really helped with the turnouts especially. Mineral spirits are the way to go though for cleaning!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I have heard from a number of graphite users. It is fairly non-polar and seems to be liked by those who use it. I have not myself. Thanks for weighing in.

[@JakeRathburn]

Anybody have a problem with engines not being able to pull nearly as many cars because they are slipping above like 40% on power? I got HO atlas gp38 which can easily pull 25+ cars each and they are having a hard time, together, pulling 10 on a an almost level surface. Bear in mind I put way too much on initially - had to go in on the trucks, but anyway I liked everything down and it should be great. Yeah there is great connectivity but ZERO attraction. Anybody experience this or is it their way I could fix it? Thanks so much btw Ron = this is an awesome idea. And I’m glad that I did it on a small test track first!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

@@JakeRathburn You have over applied it. Wibe down the track and the locomotive wheels to remove excess product.

[@JakeRathburn]

Ron's Trains N Things I figured! I’m gonna leave it on until a couple more engines get weathered and the wheels coated! Thanks 😊

[@nigelduckworth406]

I tried a graphite stick, fairly soft one, 2 years ago with some scepticism, and what a difference it made. First, I haven't cleaned the track since. There's no need to. Second, you only really need to do the points.(sorry, that' UK speak-I should say turnouts). The trains will spread it all over the remaining track. Third, my 0-6-0 steam locos were subject to frequent stalling on the turnouts because most are dead frog i.e. insulfrog. They are not faultless now but much improved. Fourth- the downside. As mentioned below the graphite is a lubricant and it shows. I normally run only 7 trucks/cars in freight trains because of the small layout size and 3 coach passenger trains. There is no problem with these but on he occasions that I had to shunt ( is that switch in the U.S?) two or more trains together, some steam locos will not cope and spin their wheels. (I don't have any diesels. The solution appears to be to remove from time to time the graphite from all track but the turnouts. It will spread again slowly. So by and large, it's great but with a downside. I might try No-Ox instead to see if it does better than graphite on the slipping front.

[@tdobrynski]

Great information! This is why I love this hobby... brings together not only great providers but also the skillsets I'm interested in... modelling, carpentry, electronics... and now electro-chemistry. Building my first layout... a shelf-sized system with about 16' of HO track and about 6 - 8 turnouts. I'm doing it all on the cheap so I bought used nickel-silver flex track and some old brass turnouts... about $100 invested so far in trackage. Looking for advice on how to restore old track and how to maintain it. This info will help.

[@stevenbullock9276]

Great info. Have been using IPA to clean my tracks, will switch to mineral spirits. As an O-gauger, I was wondering about the no-ox and traction tires. Glad you mentioned it.

[@ralphrenzetti22]

Ron, I hate to say I told you so, but we talked about this two years ago on Model Railroading Live and you laughed at me and said, “I’m not putting grease on my rails”, just like people are saying to you now! I also mentioned to you about the stainless steel washer. Well it has been two years plus since we talked about this and except for dust I have not had to clean my rails since we talked. The bottom line is, with proper pre-maintenance this process works very well, provided it’s applied properly as you mention!

[@tyrinonbrightblade]

What about this stainless steel washer? Sounds like another great tip we should know about. ;)

[@ralphrenzetti22]

Tyrion, the stainless steel washer acts as a honing stone/steel would for a knife. It burnishes the scratches created by a bright boy or filing the imperfect joints, thus reducing places for dirt and grime to accumulate!

[@normvandenhandel4462]

I completely agree with the electrical current passing between the rails and wheels being the biggest culprit. I plan on applying Ron’s suggestions.

[@wmh.783]

Your science-focused approach, coupled with the video from Gregg at Fishplate Films, provide terrific information that SHOULD revolutionize track cleaning for all of us!! Testimonial - I was fortunate to visit the Kato plant in suburban Tokyo two years ago. I bought their track cleaner- no surprise it smells exactly like mineral spirits!!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

That is interesting. Thanks for sharing that.

[@cannedcheese4189]

Can these methods be use for steel track, like bachmann ez track?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes

[@DubaiTrains]

Hi Ron, great in detail video. I fully agree and have been using INOX for some months now (has the same properties as NO-OX) and it works amazing! I especially like that these products clean the wheels at the same time. No more cleaning 1000 box car wheels!!

[@StandardGoose]

I'm just getting back into the hobby as an adult, and so I'm building a small 6'x4' layout as a practice run while creating the benchwork for a large attic layout. For that practice layout I'm using a load of old 1970s/1980s steel track my mother-in-law found clearing out her garage. No Ox ID is incredibly expensive in the UK. I've seen it being sold for £60-£100. Intensive cleaning is likely to be a part of my life for the foreseeable future.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Wow, that is insanely expensive. Sorry to hear that. Hope it all goes well for you.

[@derekalexander4030]

Thank you for taking the time to investigate this and then to share what you learned with the rest of us. Probably one of the biggest chores and constantly annoying things to do on a layout. There’s nothing like going to show someone your layout only to have the trains stop or stutter and ruin the whole experience.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I think we can all relate to that experience. So frustrating.

[@davidausterman5915]

Cool. I just bought a jar of this a few months back for antenna ground rod treatment. Had no idea it has so many uses.

[@ohyikes1]

You completely answered every one of my track cleaning questions.Thank you.

[@jscott8695]

Thank you for posting! I have always used isopropyl and just expect to have to clean every few days. SOP - just part of running my trains. Well, after stumbling across this video I decided to give mineral spirits a try, wow! My trains have never run better, and so far, I haven't had to do any cleaning for 2 whole weeks! I don't even get any flickering of the lights, even when creeping along at 3% throttle, and no there are no keep alive caps. I have ordered some NO-OX, and it will be here in a few days. Can't wait to give that a try too. Also. thanks for the science lesson!

[@ronaldjoyce7374]

Woooow Ron, I’m totally going to Amazon after I thank you once again🙏 THANK YOU! Your right, nothing seems to work, I clean so much I wanna hire a maid service LOL. Ya gotta feel great when you can teach an old dog new tricks, thanks again. 😊

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Good luck. Let us know what your experience is.

[@H4NDCRAFTED]

Thank you , no ox has totally resolved my train issues , I spread a tiny bit with my finger on a small diorama track that comes on and off three times a day with a WiFi plug. About 6 months on it is still running fine at a very low speed , which is my preference. Before this I was cleaning every two weeks. Been a fantastic product. I’m in uk so thought I’d have an issue getting some , but thankfully it was on amazon with next day.

[@TSmith-ns45]

WOW! I’ve been carefully “damaging” my N scale track for many years with a Bright Boy and sometimes a small piece of masonite. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I would guess that in using isopropyl alcohol as a wicking agent for ballast and scenery, the track rails get a little abuse that way too.

[@ronsimmons5599]

I have a small n-scale layout and heard about transmission fluid for this problem from a club about 5 or 6 years. thought I would try it. If it didn't work it would be easy to clean up. As of today I haven't cleaned the trans. oil off and I haven't put any back on in a long time. I don't know how long it will last, but for now my electrical problems do not exist.

[@Chief25WBG]

Ron, thanks so much for making and sharing this. The research and tips are very much appreciated. This is one of the most helpful tips I have seen related to maintaining my layout and keeping my fleet moving.

[@oregonjointlinemodelrailro4125]

I've been using No-Ox for around 12 years with no real track cleaning and great performance. In my experience you're making the application of it harder than it needs to be. Once every few years I just apply a small dab on the end of a toothpick about every 30 feet or so and spread it via locomotive (light power the first couple times through as there will be some slippage). I've never gone to the effort to wipe it off because I apply it so sparingly. I'm sure what you're doing will work fine as well, but it's a lot more effort than is needed to be effective in my experience. If I haven't run the layout for more than a month I'll just run a boxcar equipped with a Woodland Scenics Dustmonkey on the axle ahead of trains to dust the tracks on the first run (which is far more fun that getting out the vacuum!).

[@gmburzynski68]

I can attest that the OJL runs great!! The times I have been there, everything ran flawlessly.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

That's good to know. That is how I used to apply clipper oil. I just followed the Sanchem recommendations, but that is easier and good to know it works.

[@VeteranMilitiaMan]

Do you have any locomotives with traction tires?

[@ModelRailway]

Excellent and interesting informative video! I’ve switched from IPA to WD-40 contact cleaner and have been impressed (I do have some traction tyres being a U.K. layout). A couple of additional tips … I operate a Dapol track cleaner with the vacuum mode and it’s amazing how much dust and debris can get on a layout! Also I use a small vacuum cleaner during any projects to the layout … it’s amazing how many videos you see where sawdust after drilling is simply blown away to pollute another part of the layout! I also use a dehumidifier in my railway shed and this helps reduce and stabilise the humidity … as just like the real railway, water is an enemy! 👍

[@Scaletrains]

Great video, Ron. Thanks for sharing those tips and tricks with the community. -Drayton

[@jamesburba1995]

Very informative, and plainly explained. I have a much better understanding of track 'cleaning'. I'm definitely going to implement what I have learned from you. Thank you Ron !

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I look forward to hearing about your experience.

[@edcrane4438]

Excellent information, U answered questions I haven’t even thought of, TY so much for this video!

[@chandal804]

Thanks for the information! I used wd 40 multi use lubricant, and my old trainset came back to life

[@jscott8695]

Ok, mineral spirits great! NO-OX not so great 🙁 I applied the NO-OX exactly as your presentation specifies, and it was a fail. Before the NO-OX application everything was running great, after, not so great. I even completely cleaned the rails on my N-Scale road three times and tried the NO-OX again three times and each time it was the same thing, poor performance. I really wanted the NO-OX to work, but nothing ventured nothing gained! The mineral spirits, though, is the way to go! None of this every other day cleaning like when using iso! Thanks again!

[@petermayiii1112]

You can also buy electrical contact grease in little packets about the size of a ketchup pack at your local auto parts stores. That's enough to last for years.

[@vincentbuccigrossi3070]

As a chemistry teacher and modeler….. loved this

[@-FreeMiner-]

Thank you for this video it's gonna help me so much, just got back into model railways and built a decent sided layout in my workshop this cleaning method is deffo gonna be used on mine, already added the things I need to my online shopping basket, im in the uk and my class 06 shutters spark and stutter all the time for as my track is very old and only Q tips and a track rubber have been used to clean it

[@StanFerris]

Very interesting, Ron. Thanks! This will be a great help to many modelers. Because I live in a desert climate, the oxidation and dust were just too big a continuing problem, and all my modelling time was spent wheel and rail cleaning. So I converted from DCC to dead-rail battery power.

[@scottanderson2784]

Glad to see you support this

[@StanFerris]

Ron has some great tips. And this one will be a great help to many modelers.

[@markdeschane4467]

Ron, Interesting video! This may be a different video from Joe F.; but, the latest iteration from him is about cleaning the tracks and wheels first then using graphite to reduce/eliminate arching of the rails. An important point that needs to be made is that you not get graphite all over the layout; but, only put it on a few feet of track every so often. I tried this but got to much on and my locos lost traction. I'm still going to attempt to do what Joe recommends once I'm back to running trains again.

[@dannemachmar]

Nice video, another tip from me in Stockholm Sweden. Run your trains everyday and you will not have a problem. Love from Stockholm.

[@patrickmurphy6775]

Excellent video. While I am not a technical kind of guy, your explanation was very good. It shows you did your homework without just coming out and reccomending a product. Kudos all around.

[@kjamison5951]

This was a fascinating video. I’ve just been over to Amazon to purchase this protective grease for the model railway layout I’m building. Thank you!

[@AverageOhioan1903]

what are the exact problems with useing this along side your steam engines with traction tires? thats all i have but i would love to use this product.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

The consistency of the product on rubber makes the rubber slick and thus nullifies the effect of having traction tires.

[@leemouring]

Gentleman; In the 80's I was a member of the now defunct Chattanooga Model Rail Roaders Association. We had many of the basic problems that you described with dirty oxidation on track, and with several continuous loops operating 7/12 days a week cleaning hundreds of feet of HO track was a real problem. The club found an electronic solution that was not mentioned in this video. We purchased and installed several high frequency track cleaners. These required a capacitor to be installed in the engines themselves but no operational changes were needed to electrical power systems for regular speed/forward/back train operation. With only the modification of the trains that were constantly being run our track cleaning/electrical oxide problems were virtually eliminated. I do not believe that a chemical cleaning was done after this system was placed in operation and Tracy always had a shiney glint to top of rail. Unfortunately since the Rail Road was decomissioned in the 2000's I do not remember the name of the manufacture of this rail cleaning product, but I do remember seeing advertisements in the Model Rail Roaders magazine's of the time, I am sure someone can find the advertisements in old issues. The explanation of how this kept your rail clean is that the high frequency low amperage ac caused the ions to repair the crystalline boundaries disrupted by the micro arking in the engines wheels as power was drawn from the rail as turned the electric motor in the train. The capacitor only passed AC across the rails while the motor was DC only and not erected by the AC low voltage micro amperage current. Hope this helps you to avoid track cleanings in the future. 1. We had 6 trains on continuous loops. With over 180 ft of track in main loop. 2. We also had 6 or seven switch yards and a central overhead central switching station in the middle of the display. 3. Club members performed maintaince and seinenory design, and we received a portion of the admission for the display. 4. As a member we could come and run our own trains, or use club tools/work space to try modifications on the modle. We did pay nominal yearly dues but got to play with a great big train set. I miss my friends, many good times and memory's. ;-)

[@fastsetinthewest]

NEW SUBSCRIBER because of this video. I don't know anything about this hobby. Learning fast. From near Fort Worth. Eaglegards...

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Welcome. I lived in and around Fort Worth for 6 years, thus the inspiration for my layout.

[@fastsetinthewest]

I've watched other videos here. A lot of great information. I just bought $2,000 worth of HO trains from various sources. Learning fast on how these businesses treat customers. Thanks for video info.

[@maxcorey8144]

I have for many many years on many layouts used 3 in 1 oil very lightly wiped along the rails with a soft cloth and fingertip. The cloth always gets black and the rails are shiny, clean and have a very slight film of oil that protects from oxidation and the wheels stop arcing. Never had a slipping problem I am not putting it on thick.

[@Howie2025]

Well that might be one of your best and most informative videos to date Ron. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@johnacheson3961]

Thanks for the shout out Ron. Very nice informative video.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hey John. I try to give credit where it is due. 👍🏼

[@jimallen4809]

Your video's on track cleaning and then using No-ox special followed up periodically by using Dust Monkeys has made a world of difference on my garage layout! Previously I needed to clean my rails almost every week. Now I have not had to clean my rails in the two months since I applied the No-Ox special. Thanks Ron.

[@953edmondgreen7]

Denatured acahol Is cheaper as sold by any hardware store as Lamp fuel as instead of karsoline.

[@diatonicdelirium1743]

I'm using automatic gearbox fluid: ATF Dexron 3 (higher will also work) which has anti-corrosion properties and is not an electrical insulator when applied (very) thinly. Apply extremely small amounts and use a single stable locomotive to spread it around the track; as it is also a lubricant you only need a hint of a drop for several meters of track, so using a swab to apply it in a few separate places is advised. Apply a length of about 2 inches on each track such that the wheel of the locomotive can do at least an entire revolution. Traction tires typically don't suffer at all from the ATF fluid as it is designed to be kind to rubber and other gaskets, but you might find they pick up more dirt after ATF application. Repeat this every 6-12 months and you'll be driving those trains like never before.

[@magform]

As someone who grew up in the "brass rail era," I know that many of our ideas on track cleaning comes from that era. Brass rail oxidizes different from Nickel Silver. Also, some of my earliest flex track used fiber rails, which is not as affected by alcohols as plastics. Now, one of the things that was promoted early about Nickel Silver, is that the oxidation is conductive, unlike brass. Brass would get so oxidized, that it took something like a "Brite Boy" to get through it to fresh brass. Curious as to how this product affects brass rail and wheels, as many of my locos are old enough to have brass wheels. I agree with the frustration of constant rail maintenance. I left HO and N at one point and went back to "toy trains." But my enthusiasm for scale models has returned in my retirement, and I will try your suggestions, once I get the track clean. Thanks!

[@tonyromano6220]

I bet it works on brass.

[@tonyromano6220]

The conductive is a game changer.

[@dallashopkins5356]

What exactly are "TOY TRAINS" @magform ?

[@jerrylauchle7907]

I use a CMX solid brass track cleaning tank car that has a cloth pad under the tank. I fill the tank with lacquer thinner and adjust the valve on the tank to allow the lacquer to drip onto the cleaner pad at a rate of about one drop per 2 seconds. I hook the car up to a powerful locomotive and push it to all sections of track. The pushing is best because its easy to clean the full length of stub spurs. The bottom line: lacquer thinner is the best solvent to use.

[@amblealong4581]

Thank you for your detailed, well researched, informative dissertation. I'll definitely give this process a try.

[@alexnunes1799]

I have Bachmann EZ black roadbed track and I use 70% isopropyl alcohol to clean my tracks should I stop using it & use something else or can I keep using the alcohol it gave me no problems so far

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

The alcohol promotes further oxidation. You would be much better off using mineral spirits.