Roofing - How to Install Asphalt Shingles - Getting Started Walkthrough

[@gunther955]

Thank you for taking the time to do this video . I can see the reason we have some leaks on the roof me an my brother in law did . which now i have to go back an redo , including wood that has got damaged .

[@paulj541]

WOW.... I'm only 1m into the video and I just had to comment! You have your "battle gear" on. Very professional. I've been doing a home project and I find that when I dress properly I usually have the tools right when/where I need them.

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

It does help

[@stonebrooktaxbooks7648]

Thank you for recording your work. I had seen the other 6 course layering, and this seemed to make the guy move so much up and back down, and up, and back down. I was thinking of just the way you staggered them 6" every odd row. Thanks so much for helping us low income DIYer's. I calculated, if I can do this myself, I can save $4,800 in labor!

[@dougsherman1562]

Excellent video guys. Even the mundane tasks are helpful for us beginners. Thanks!

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

That's part of the plan. You have to get started and then you can learn as you go.

[@stevenlongtin6075]

What kind of knife were you useing?

[@stevenlongtin6075]

i think your video was pretty good, I would use it anytime

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

I must have missed this comment - It is a Stanley Quick Change knive - with straight and hooked blades. You don't have to take the knife apart to change the blade.

[@battlefieldforge1]

thank you so much, this series of videos was exactly what i was looking for.

[@cup_and_cone]

Most 3-tab shingle manufacturers recommend continuing the starter strip up the side rakes for high wind conditions/extended warranty coverage. Have you ever had issues with manufacturers because you are not doing it? I know the roofing cement will help tremendously with wind lift, but there is an additional layer of toughness and protection added to the edge rakes by doing it (i.e. debris falling on edge).

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

We use roof cement. It is an acceptable alternative. I believe it says it in the installation instructions.

[@joewillis9937]

Great video, first one I've seen where they just don't turn the shingle upside down for the starter, cut the shingle to put the asphalt strip at the bottom for the starter.

[@MoneyManHolmes]

My installer literally installed them upside down... the tar is sticking to the drip edge. Now, I have to go back and cement the whole first row of shingles down to the starter. I wish I had watched some of these how to videos before hiring such a hack.

[@ivtec845]

Great video I always nail 3 tabs like that here in ny is called wind nailing or lock nailing

[@dominicjenkins812]

Awesome detailed video! Do you have any videos on doing valleys with 3 tab shingles?

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

Not yet! Hopefully soon. Have a new mockup on the way.

[@MKGngy]

Great vid. Awesome teacher.

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

Thank you

[@eamonaugustine1262]

They sell pre made starter strips for roofing . Sometimes they are not wide enough . So newer shingles are metric . If you pre cut your shingle for both edges. It will be easier for the install . Can use a square for great cuts. If u have a foam cushion or knee pads it will ne easier on yer back if not used to ROOFING !

[@matthewprall7450]

This was super helpful! Thank you

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Bronzeback8]

At 10:20 you didn't put the first starter shingle even with the roof, can you tell me why?

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

I put it on my key line. So once the next starter goes on, my first shingle will go on the next key line so they don't match up. The starter and first shingle will then be 6" apart, just like the rest of the shingles. Have seen many leaks due to the starter and first shingle lining up.

[@mrcleanisin]

Great workmanship, but I would think it matters that you don't have to go back whether you are making money or for yourself. With all those large headed nails in the tarpaper, what do you do when you hit one when nailing on the shingles and it slips and damages the tarpaper?

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

It happens, but not very often. When you are hand nailing, usually you can feel it right away. With a nail gun, you just have to fix it as you go. Not a show stopper

[@snakeknife7518]

Couch cushion, nice idea.

[@rolandoperez4497]

Nice & great video👍

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

Thank you

[@timpage5021]

When you racking straight up like that you always cut the same amount all the way to the top correct?.

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

If you want the keys to line up, then yes. If not then you would stairstep at a 5" pattern. I believe you could also rack, but your key lines would be different. We always stair stepped with the 5" pattern. Then I believe every 7th row lines up or something like that.

[@Tofomy]

Great videos.

[@pete9b]

Great informative video, thanks!!....

[@shawnkreider2792]

This helps a lot! Was your knife a hook edge?

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

Yes

[@Eastbaypisces]

What kind of nails u use for drip edge? Can you use same ones for Shingles?

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

1 1/4" ring shank. Yes, you can. Yes we do. Unless code specifically says it, then smooth shank roofing nails are typical for the shingle install.

[@timpayne4471]

This is fantastic to see. Figuring out how to stagger tabs for my FL vacation house. Why did you adjust the pattern at ~19 minutes, and start placing vertically?

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

Typically after installing a few rows on the bottom you would turn around and start laying the shingles up the roof. In this video I showed how to rack the 3-tab shingles straight up. There is also a 5" pattern that doesn't line up which would stairstep or rack. Bending down towards the edge is a lot more strenuous than facing the ridge. Working on the shingles will sometimes scar the shingles so that is also a consideration. When you are used to doing it and can move fast you will always be on new shingles so you don't scar as much. A cushion may help with this.

[@justinearnest3811]

I have a question,why you did not put a starter strip on the sides ?

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

We use roofing cement. It does the same thing as a starter strip on the rake. It is code in this area to use roofing cement if the dripedge is over the paper.

[@eranomanahan9118]

why did you not put underlayment shingles at both sides like what you did in front?

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

It took me a minute to understand your question. I have seen shingles put up the rake like starters before. We set the edges in roofing cement.

[@douglasmaclean5836]

fantastic ! Thanks.

[@timpage5021]

Stair stepping or tacking. 3 tab is better to rack..

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

Agreed

[@joehintze1]

It is manufacturers spec to install the dril edge under paper fyi

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

It can go under. We have always done it this way due to not having ice to contend with. Florida Building Code allows under or over. We seal with roofing cement for wind. I have only seen guys from up North put it under over the last 30 years. Both ways seem to work fine with respect to water. Wind seems to be what the building code is more concerned with.

[@wangbungal]

Florida Building code and inspectors prefer to have the drip edge on top of paper several wind tunnel studies shows uplift winds tend to raise the roofing membrane at the corners and cause water intrusion so putting the drip edge on top of paper helps to stop water from coming in even if the shigles blow off at the corners

[@MoneyManHolmes]

My drip edge said under the felt paper or according to local codes if they require something different. It seems like hurricane areas are more likely to require this cement method.

[@imnotgood15aka.notgood21]

I like paper, drip, moisture gaurd. In that order. Guaranteed water proof.

[@manuelsalgado8510]

Is a drip edge really needed, or can I do without it?

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

Depends on your local codes. Many installers overhang the shingles and do not install dripedge. Installing dripedge is better as it protects the corner and closes off the seam where plywood and fascia meet. I would not install a roof without dripedge.

[@manuelsalgado8510]

Practical Roofing Concepts thanks, I will install drip edges, appreciate the video

[@justinmercer689]

Your not supposed to rack either type, blow offs will happen in large quantities

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

In my opinion, it has nothing to do with blow-offs unless you are not nailing the covered side of the shingle. Wind resistance has everything to do with nailing pattern and edge detail. The best method for lining up the keys is to rack the 3 tab on 2 perpendicular lines 6" apart. The reason for not racking the lams is because they do not want you to see the pattern where the shingles meet. They want a random pattern, as that is part of the look (shakes mostly) If you rack them, it will create a pattern that can be seen easily. If you stair step too close, you could also see a pattern.

[@justinmercer689]

Read the packing or manufacturer details, no racking. I live in Newfoundland, Canada it's a island constantly windy. Many many days 90 km/hr plus and a few real bad days 165 km/hr is a common yearly occurrence. The roofs that have shingles installed the way you describe, when they loose shingles they loose them all, as opposed to staggering shingle courses they may have one or two blow off but that's it. The only real bonus to racking shingles is the extra money the contractor makes installing them.(its much quicker to rack in my opinion) If your a good contractor that offers a quality product and returns if there's a problem with your work, you'd save money by doing it properly and staggering your shingle courses at least 4 rows.

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

I don't doubt that there may be some manufacturers that frown upon it, but the exact words of the last of 3 methods in the Certainteed 3-tab installation instructions is - The alternate “Six-Inch, Single-Column, Vertical Racking Method.” www.certainteed.com/resources/CT20Intall.pdf - page 93 - right hand column - towards top. I believe that the reason it may not be recommended for wind resistance is that installers (or non-installers) will be more inclined to "3-nail" if they rack them. If this is the case, then the absolute minumum of 4 nails would only be in a few shingles and most would only have 3 nails. Around here we put 6 nails in each shingle minimum (as seen in this video).

[@LonskiBig]

....We have 70- 80 mph winds out of the north in winter so I can see how that bead of roofing cement would do the trick...

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

It's all about placement, not necessarily quantity

[@Cozcacuauhtli]

GRASIAS

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

de nada

[@gzzacordeon]

I havent seen anybody roof in 6s lately. Its all 5s.

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

Do you mean the 5" offset?

[@gzzacordeon]

Yeah. I dont know the rules and codes of every city but everybody ive worked for in Houston does 5 inch.

[@PracticalRoofingConcepts]

Pretty sure it is a 4" minimum regardless of area. 5" pattern or offset will ensure that the keys don't line up. This way you don't need vertical lines. When you do the 6" and they don't line up, it really doesn't look good.

[@gzzacordeon]

Exactly, specially on higher pitch roofs.