Rose test

[@chrisgray21]

soooooo clean, great job

[@m_IDEX]

Awesome!

[@kafkas3d]

bro this is definitely the best fast printer I have ever seen. Because no other printer can achieve this quality at this speed. It is really great. I have a small request from you, please upload the production steps in more detail to KZbin because I am thinking of doing something like this in the near future.

[@MrRocksalt]

There are faster ones! They don't have time to be messing around making videos!

[@MrRocksalt]

This build can be very time consuming and difficult. At least it was for me. This build is a one off, no others exactly like it. If I were to go this route without having made the CAD, I would choose something already out there. For instance, the K1, K2 printer from Annex.

[@kafkas3d]

@@MrRocksalt Thanks for your reply. Is the printing quality of Annex the same as yours or is yours better?

[@kafkas3d]

@@MrRocksalt Are you planning on posting videos of the construction phases in the future?

[@MrRocksalt]

@ I have no way of knowing as I don not own one. But.. It is roughly the same thing, so it comes down to how well the parts are made, assembled, and how you tune your prints.

[@vahvelpoiss]

that cooling is impressive. can you share the duct design somewhere? I cant figure out a good design for the ducts on the CrownCooler toolhead that also fits with CNC TAP. I managed to get the toolhead itself smaller by using a 2510 heatbreak fan, so there’s more room but my CAD skills are limited 😀

[@Tinkerer5888]

I’ve been using a berd air pump to cool my heat sink for years now. I just got the Goliath hotend and am going to try direct heat break cooling as well! What temperatures are you trying to keep the heat break at? I’m glad you’re having success with it. Makes me wanna hurry and finish mine lol

[@_Xantras_]

Hey I just noticed you managed to make the UFO duct work with Chube, congrats ! About your heatbreak cooling, you still need it even with Chube conduct and all that aluminium ?!

[@MrRocksalt]

Depends on how you utilize it. If chambered, how can the heat break heat synk be colder than the chamber? So at that point you decide what setpoint to use to maintain synk temp. With ABS it can be quite hot and still keep motoring. With PLA/PETG, it won't be chambered, so won't need any cooling. It's just a way to monitor and control the heat break heat synk temp.

[@oldman1944]

Looks pretty good to me VFA wise. I can't see any of the typical 2mm belt VFA that plagues my P1S, though I guess the speeds you are running help with that. If I ever build my own printer I'd love to try 2 or 3 thin belts with the teeth all offset instead of a single belt, in the hope that the offset teeth would cancel resonances. The pulleys would take some fabrication though.

[@MrRocksalt]

12mm belts should help! Coming soon. These are tensioned to ~30lbs. It has VFA, it's just what I print and how that dictates how bad. It's miserable! But I need to machine a few pieces and make some plates to fix it. Soon I hope!

[@twanheijkoop6753]

I still thinks some of the VFA's are caused by using too small diameter pulleys and idlers, I remember reading somewhere that for 6mm gt2 belts that at least 30 teeth sprockets and 1.3x that for backside idlers is advised for precision machines but can't find the technical document anymore. Someday I'll go about redesigning my printer to switch from 20t to 30t pulleys if I find the time.

[@MrRocksalt]

@@twanheijkoop6753 I thought, IIRC, that 30T was recommended for teeth against smooth. When I had corexy I used 30T live shafts and liked them. This VFA is precision alignment issue and some issue with the frame resonance and the motors. De-Coupling them might be some of it, not sure yet. I need to finish some parts to get it the way I want it.

[@twanheijkoop6753]

@@MrRocksalt that could also be it, but I'm pretty sure it was something to do with the minimum bending radius of the fiber reinforcing the belts use causing vibrations when the radius got too small. Also think some of it could be caused by the 2 phase steppers we use, 5 phase and 3 phase stepper+driver combos are getting cheaper so might have to pick up a set in the future as well.

[@oldman1944]

@ When I was playing around to see what caused the VFA on my old Creality KE, the low speed finer VFA was coming from the steppers, then the higher speed 2mm stuff was from the belts (which also went away above ~160mm/s).

[@Tinkerer5888]

I’ve been using a berd air pump to cool my heat sink for years now. I just got the Goliath hotend and am going to try direct heat break cooling as well! What temperatures are you trying to keep the heat break at? I’m glad you’re having success with it. Makes me wanna hurry and finish mine lol

[@MrRocksalt]

For now I have a 3mm stud thermistor in the heat break heat synk and a setpoint of 50C. But I can say for 100% certain, I can print ABS with no cooling of the break. Even PLA will work, due to the chamber not needing to be closed. But.. if the heat synk get's too hot, then when changing filament, it can melt into the heat break. For now, I keep the setpoint at 50 and the pump runs 100% with the hot end at 300C, enclosed at 55C. So the berd/aquarium pump is delivering some cold air also.. Maybe I need to put the pump inlet to the chamber.