Your own first layer is faster than your whole print 😉

I added some text in the description that you can search online :)

These are LD0 2504's with TMC5160's @ 48V, running on Octopus pro 1.1 w/H723

@@MrRocksalt no problem with vfa? I'm stuck between 2004 and 2504, actually i prefer 2004 cause i dont want to go crazy fast but... So you are running stepstick and not external 5160 right?

@@occasionalriders1885 TMC5160 step sticks, internal. 2504's will VFA at 100mms.. well... I tested them for vibration and they have several speeds they resonate at. above 200 they are fine. 100-200 have a few areas they resonate.

LDO 2504's. They resonate badly at 100mms. Go higher or go less, lol

There is something I really like about goliath.. the mount.. The mount of goliath is superior, IMO, because the assembly is more rigid having the flange of the hotend bolt directly. The lighter heat zone heats faster with same wattage so it's like a flywheel mass.. looses heat faster with less mass.. but also heats faster.. so almost the same? Then the printer can throw the mass around because it's less. But longevity, Chube is more industrial. I am having some issues with retraction or corners, not sure the cause, but it's not as clean as the prints coming off Goliath. Maybe I need to tune more or maybe there is some effect from the 4.5mm longer melt zone or.. not sure.. maybe even more extruder pressure needed. Something is different, just not sure yet what.

This is the type, I had some at the house, not sure the diameter.. measure yours and get a little smaller, expands well. www.amazon.com/Silicone-Fiberglass-Automotive-Electrical-Wiring-Red/dp/B09MZGN7NX/ref=asc_df_B09MZGN7NX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693372513071&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12524157033090248825&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027849&hvtargid=pla-1955203017584&mcid=75151690f48238878e3ed8d9e353feb4&gad_source=1&th=1

I do not have that answer.. I hear that enclosed chamber of 85C+ is hard to cool with CPAP WS7040, but I have no experience at that chamber temp. The twin server fans toss ~60CFM combined. Hard to argue that it's not better. But you also have the weight and a gyro effect. The CPAP hose is not rated for high chamber temps. Maybe, maybe not.. But if you really wanted more CFM can use a bigger CPAP blower and a hose rated for those temps.

@@MrRocksalt actually i don't have a enclouser but i am printing with pla and pla is very Hard to cool and second hand Server fans are very cheap

@@kagancengiz For me, PLA not a problem with WS7040 and a good duct. I have some videos on this channel with some pla. I have to move pretty quick to under cool it with typical .2 layer height.

Brrrrrr

Chube is more robust, more copper, heavier, parts can be changed out and more towards an industrial hotend. Goliath is lighter and less mass to heat. This means Goliath can heat faster the heat zone, but it can be cooled faster as well with filament and part cooling. Thermistor placement is not right with Goliath and the heating coil does not extend down low enough IMO. If printing at sane speeds for the plastic, Chube will win that battle for it's robustness and longevity.

@@MrRocksalt thanks for the response, cant wait to see more videos of your amazing machine!

That is some silicone sleeve w/glass fiber insulation. Get the right I.D. and it slip fits right over.

Almost ready to see.. Made a few prints, look great so far. Had some issues with temperature/heater element wattage and some issues with the temperature of the top plate. Sorted that, now tuning.

Yes, too small for proper cal. But I use this model for a few things :)

KINDA?????? IT IS SEXY!!!

Chube is better in some ways and Goliath in others from what I see(not practical experience yet, just what I see so far). Goliath is smaller package but shorter heat zone by 5-6mm.Goliath, to me, mounts better with the flange, but has less mass. Chube has the outer shell that helps support the hotend. Chube will last forever, Goliath won't, but rate of failure unknown/based on material ran. It's just a mechanism to test different hotends to see the performance differences. Not in flow necessarily, but other factors of temp/extrusion consistency. Sometimes I wish I had the stock mosquito magnum vs Goliath.. I don't need more than 30mms3 at times, so the shorter meltzone might make a difference in print quality with PA.. not sure.. So test and see..

That sounds terrorizing, but I am trying to spin the earth

Sure, I can. This is an easy part to design. But keep in mind it's specific to those hotends, extruders, duct, custom extruder backplate if using VZhex. So in the end it may be wise to make a custom one for your specific printer.

@@MrRocksalt yeah I had figured that might b the case

I should have use a more general term! Berd Air is a system for part cooling that I use for hot end cooling. It's a small aquarium type diaphragm pump.

@@MrRocksalt That's awsome!I Currently building my own custom x-gantry printer out of an ender 5 and parts from ender 3s. Been taking a lot of inspiration from your build! Keep up the good work!

If I let it cook/idle at 285 the first bit will be some gooey crap.. Might set the wait temp low and kick it up for print. Once it's moving it's great. Make sure your filament is dry!

I wasn't sure and not completely sold it's not relevant. Will pressure advance be affected with more backlash? It's function can be aggressive with the extruder. But I am no expert on this. I can only test and report based on what I observe.

@@MrRocksalt Again, if it's within reason. Concentricity of the extruder gears and tooth profile is more important imo and will certainly minimize artifacts. If you relying on excessive pressure advance say in a high speed bowden setup where the extruder gear "pumps" and reverses with nozzle depressurization will you have backlash? Sure but any amount of lash can be treated as a constant and included in the K value.

There is a version on thingiverse for VZbot: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6313653 you can play with that..step is not available to the public. That duct is a little different, same principle, and works well.

Nothing tricky, old stuff. I change PA based on speed and SCV in the "between extrusion role change gcode".

This particular model needs about 15% cooling for the main part and 80%+ near the top section. With 100K fan I would have to much at the low end and over cool, using this same duct. The 100K fan is too much at min speed for me to use without making yet another duct to reduce the velocity. If I had some higher chamber temps I could use it, but the majority of the time I am between 50-60C chamber. This makes the WS7040 more ideal for my needs.

It has plenty of power to use 2 motors for X and 2 for Y, would there be other benefits?

@@MrRocksalt 1.41 times the max print speed, unless you are flow rate limited. Also some models (probably doesn't affect this one) look nicer with + - 45 degrees. sounds like you are optimizing more for quality though, so it probably isn't necessary.

@@nathanielbanse6128 That's what I thought you were getting at. 1.41< torque, so more speed. I have to balance cooling so I don't cool too much and not enough. I can go more, but this model does not allow the commanded speed to be reached. Too many corners everywhere and I don't want to use more than 60SCV so I can get some quality. I will keep that in mind for suitable prints.

@@MrRocksalt sounds great! I am super excited to see more of your prints!

007 stuff.. Sneaky

Black, night vision goggles and backpack... I think it's fair to say it's just mall ninja cosmetics rather than functional. Pretty cool though.

It can be, when I forget to plug in the berd air. I have done many ABS prints with it off by mistake. Just didn't notice it. PLA, probably not. I will just turn it down to lower the noise level. The Berd air is cooling more than just the heat break and I prefer to have the extruder motor run cool. It's the 17mm LDO version @ .5A and it get's quite hot if the added heat from the heat synk stays into the extruder body. this is how I noticed it was off.. the toolhead assembly was hot to the touch.

I change the pressure advance(Jerk in Marlin) based on a few things. If the model has mostly curves/rounded corners, I will raise the SCV high so the corner speed is higher and takes less time to print. If the model has a lot of square corners, and I want them sharp, I will use a lower square corner value and adjust the PA accordingly. PA(pressure advance) aka Linear Advance(Marlin) controls how the extruder does the start and end points of extrusion.

Some machines can take more, some less.. I know I can run about 80SCV without much noise/shaking of the printer. Most printers will knock hard when changing directions, if the SCV is too high. For me, I choose the SCV based on the type of model. Models with 90° corners need lower SCV to get the corners sharp. This model is all curves and I can get away with more SCV.

This is a one off. You can build a K3 or Croxy. Both of those are cross gantries.

I use a little unoptanium on top of PEI. Spread very thin.

The machine I made ducts for is the VZBot and I do not own one! So the duct I use is much different. I do not have the beam in the way so the duct I use is optimized making use of that real estate. I have no idea how they compare as I am not able to use the ones for the VZBot. The better one for VZBot is the V2 version. There are other versions there with ways to connect other probe types. I do not plan on releasing CAD for the model I use or the models I post for VZBot.

I will check it out, who knows what might work or maybe nothing. Just insulate the printer more, lol. It's not bad with it all closed up.