Rebuild Kit I Used: amzn.to/3zjG9Gy Piston Ring Compressor: amzn.to/3xqQikc Head Gasket: amzn.to/4eGBH4K 8-MM T Tool: amzn.to/4gWSYqU Compression Tester: amzn.to/4jii8Ce
@GPOutdoors3 ай бұрын
Hey thanks very much. I have a 261 and appreciate all the work and effort in filming it for us. Cheers!
@OldSoulMillennial3 ай бұрын
Great saw when it's running properly. I switched to 38-1 Mix, no smoke, more lubrication. Happy Saw
@hunterrussell95953 ай бұрын
I couldn’t have done it without you man thanks a ton
@nheng69132 ай бұрын
Excellent video. It's going to the library for my MS261. Good video and audio.
@BlairGuinea7 ай бұрын
Great vid Sir through out, machining building etc...........................definately no commercial BS here !.................subscribed and massive like you gotta be one of the best on the you tube platform, thankyou for your time
@videocardzrule35422 күн бұрын
I installed an hour meter on my Stihl 261 when it was brand-new. I also only use Moto Mix with a tiny bit of Honda HP2 added. So, I’m converting Moto Mix to 32:1. Saw freaking RIPS so hard !!! I don’t like Stihl Ultra oil. But something about Moto Mix is really magical.
@ciphercode22982 ай бұрын
Fella i watch named richard flagg did some testing on 2 stroke oil and stihl ultra hp failed miserably. The way he explained it,it was burnin off and not enough was staying behind to lubricate. Ive used it for a few years without any failures in my 3 saws,string trimmer or leaf blower,but im now switching to lucas synthetic land and sea. Looks like an easy saw to rebuild,so at least thats good. Hope it holds up for you
@xkguy4 ай бұрын
good job. Compliments to the cameraman!
@NathanRittenhouse-i7d5 ай бұрын
Great Rebuild Video. I’must subscribed
@byfordbarnard22644 ай бұрын
Excellent video
@antz123-m3f10 күн бұрын
Hi. I stripped down my stihl ms251 Inside crank case is not shiny. Should it be? Piston is not shiny either if it was when new. Rings broke off easily. I know the saw got too hot. Do u reakon replace crank case and piston?
@OliverofAllTrades7 ай бұрын
AMSOIL is the best oil in my opinion... I am 14 and have a 261 C-M and many other saws and machines. That's what they all run.
@OldSoulMillennial7 ай бұрын
@@OliverofAllTrades What oil-gas ratio do you run? I’ve been using 50-1, but I think I’m going to switch to 45-1.
@OliverofAllTrades6 ай бұрын
@@OldSoulMillennial 50:1 is all you need for stock saws.
@xkguy3 ай бұрын
I'm sure you know by now but there are 2 heads, old and new. My 261 took the new with no need to cut the fins.
@DanielAndonov-br5zd6 ай бұрын
I want to ask what are the different parts between stihl ms 261 non-mtronic and stihl ms 261 cm.
@1234567739346 ай бұрын
The reason the cilynder doesn't fit properly is because Stihl came up with gen 2 cilynder called slant fit wich is supposed to give a couple more HP and less cooling fins in aprox. 2016-17 . The gen 2 is almost available only from Sthil and was in there saws at the time of change giving a bit of weight lost and lower profile cost lots more $$ I have the gen 1 bought in 2014 with the straight cilynder. Very nice video!!
@OldSoulMillennial6 ай бұрын
@@123456773934 So gen 2 has more power and less cooling fins? Sounds like gen 1 was manufactured too well. Had to ensure something would fail! Ran the saw hard today, and performed very well. Switched to 42-1, no smoke so I’m going to stick with that ratio. If I ever have to rebuild again, are you aware of any aftermarket gen 2 heads?
@dibiase95025 ай бұрын
I have read that the you can remove some of the plastic ribbing on the underside of the shroud to make the flat fin cylinder fit under a slant find shroud. Did you explore this option? Do you think it would work? I’m looking to get a slant fin that was straight gassed and rebuild it and was wondering. Great video. Well done camera work. Thanks
@OldSoulMillennial5 ай бұрын
@@dibiase9502 In my case, I had to heavily machine the cooling fins, and grind some of the case ribs. Takes about 2 hours. If you have more time than money, do what I did. I think I explain it in the video reasonable well.
@ericjohnson908022 күн бұрын
Do you think the m-tronic caused lean condition? I have heard reports of that.
@OldSoulMillennial22 күн бұрын
This saw isn’t m-Tromic. Just a standard carb, so can’t comment
@FastandFoody4 ай бұрын
My uncle bought 4 brand new stihl 261c mtronics and his laborers blew em all up using the 50.1 ratio. Im going to go through all of them and see if i can salvage em.
@OldSoulMillennial4 ай бұрын
@@FastandFoody Definitely worth rebuilding if you have the time. My cheap aftermarket piston and head are holding up very well. Now running 40-1. Still runs very clean.
@Frankrhm7 ай бұрын
Why use the decompression button its only 50cc
@OldSoulMillennial7 ай бұрын
Why wear a seatbelt, its just a car
@Frankrhm7 ай бұрын
@@OldSoulMillennial it probably caused your problem
@OldSoulMillennial7 ай бұрын
@@Frankrhm Please explain your logic. Are you suggesting it was just a bad decompression valve? I didn’t look for leakage there. I think I would have noticed air bleeding out when doing the compression test. I use the decompression valve to reduce shoulder strain.
@videocardzrule3546 ай бұрын
The decompression button saves on many things. Reduces pull starter wear/pull string wear, reduces starting strain. I have a Stihl 261 and I use it. Nothing wrong with using the decompression valve. The decompression valve is awesome.
@OldSoulMillennial6 ай бұрын
@@videocardzrule354 Agreed, I don’t know what this Karen commenting above is smoking.
@stefanlageambecker60774 ай бұрын
Only use the best 2 stroke oil. It is expensive but rebild your chainsaw is more expensive.
@OldSoulMillennial4 ай бұрын
@@stefanlageambecker6077 The rebuild kit I used was 45 bucks.
@demetriogranados38794 ай бұрын
Stop using Stihl oil. Stuff really does suck. Really sucks your saw gave out in just two years. Great video learned a lot thank you
@harryharry31934 ай бұрын
soooo many people document this. what many are finding is Honda hp2, belray hr1 and motul 800 seem to be best performers. 50 to 1 -- some like 40 to 1.
@dsax78393 ай бұрын
By the color of conecting rod, saw shown that , its been overheated from unproper usage. Used that same saw for 6 years right now, over 300 tanks gas used. Still runing like it should, 0 engine rebuids so far. Dont know what youre guys fucking around whit this stuff.😂❤💯
@Steelologist2 ай бұрын
This is an excellent example that illustrates why these saws should be run at 50:1 ratio and not a smidge richer. There is so much carbon accumulated inside that after only 2 years it destroyed the engine. And if this saw was run using the 50:1 mix, it wasn't run long, frequently or hot enough to burn off all those nasty deposits. They eventually turned to carbon, flaked off and sanded down the cylinder causing the loss of compression.
@OldSoulMillennial2 ай бұрын
@@Steelologist Interesting theory. I have different thoughts. I only used stihl full synthetic mix oil at the pre measured 50:1 ratio. I beat the balls off this saw. It’s not a one cut and done saw, when I start this saw, I expect to be cutting hardwood logs into 16” rounds. Carbon build up unavoidable. I strongly believe 1) Stihls mix oil is crap. 2) 50:1 is too lean. Many have commented that 50:1 is just for the engines to meet epa emissions. I have since switched to a 38:1 mix, with a different Brand oil. I think running at 50:1 was too dry, thus causing ring wear and cylinder wall scoring.
@Steelologist2 ай бұрын
@@OldSoulMillennial I honestly don't think that the ring was the problem .Piston rings are made of super hard steel or cast iron and then chrome-plated which makes them much, much harder than the cylinder wall. Also, adding more oil to the mix will create even more deposits, reduce power and increase heat which is not good for the saw. If the mix was too lean, that would be apparent since the plug's electrode would be gray or grayish instead of chocolate or coffee brown. In any case, I don't understand where all that carbon came from since you ran the saw correctly. Very strange situation.
@akbastАй бұрын
@@OldSoulMillennial I've been running Amsoil at 80:1 for 6 years with hundreds of hours across three Stihl saws. Not a single problem with wear. I would bet your carb is adjusted too lean at high, causing it to overheat thus causing pre-mature wear. Adding more oil to the mix is a band-aid but I don't think it's the source of your problem.
@davidgoliath9827 ай бұрын
bad choice of cylinder kit! way too much cooling fin area removed. you should have bought a meteor kit. 1/2 the $ of oem kit. i did not have to do anything to the fins on the one i used for my 362. not sure on the 261, i used a hyway kit on that one. i had to remove some of the ribs on inside of cover and a small area of cooling fins. both saws i bought off ebay with blown top ends. i run synthetic at 40:1. used to run 50:1. too dicey
@OldSoulMillennial7 ай бұрын
@@davidgoliath982 Even after removing the fins as shown in the video, there is still around 20% more cooling fin surface area on the aftermarket head than on the OEM head. Definitely going to switch to 45-1 or 40-1.
@davidgoliath9827 ай бұрын
@@OldSoulMillennial ya but most was removed from exhaust side. the oem cyl. is designed in a specific way to be efficient with less material to reduce weight and cost
@OldSoulMillennial7 ай бұрын
@@davidgoliath982 Well the OEM design failed me after 2 years. I’ll take my chances with this 42 dollar kit.
@davidgoliath9827 ай бұрын
@@OldSoulMillennial the oem failure was not likely due to the design or the quality. it is almost always operator error. the oil may not be adequate and or the jetting was set too lean or a possible small air leak. also it is not likely that the porting in that budget cyl. replicates the oem porting that well. that has been my experience. i mean it might but........ chances are it will not have all the power it should which may not matter much depending on the type of use
@OldSoulMillennial7 ай бұрын
@@davidgoliath982 My argument is that the failure was absolutely due to design and quality issues. I bought a professional grade saw with the expectation that it should last over a decade without needing a rebuild. I used stihl brand recommended synthetic oil. I did not adjust any carb settings until the rebuild. How can you claim operator error when I’ve followed all of stihls reccomendations. Hell, I even let the saw warm up a minute at idle prior to pushing it. I’ve always been a stihl guy, but I don’t see any excuse here.